Great video. I did my 50 hr maintenance back in March on my 3025 E. I had always had hydraulic lift problems. So I thought changing all the fluids all the filters would hopefully fix my problems... well it didn't. So I took it to the dealership and told them. The manager asked me if I had cleaned the hydr. suction screen. Which I didn't even know it had, the owners manual didn't mention to. I'm not sure what all the dealership did but it works fine now. I can actually lift a bucket load of gravel and a 55 gallons of diesel fuel. I couldn't do that before. I'm starting to gain confidence. The first 50 hours my tractor was very wimpy, even the hydrostatic transmission was weak. I had to use low range. High range was out of the question as the tractor could hardly pull itself let alone an implement.
I can almost assure you the D will outdo the E series. The engines on both should have about the same torque but the geared transmission will out pull, therefore out perform the hydrostatic. Ive owned several tractors and this is my very first hydro. Its a good little loader tractor but so ain't the Shuttle Shift. I previously owned a kubota with the Shuttle shift before I got my 3025 E and I loved it. You have 8 forward gears and 8 reverse gears. The Shuttle makes them an excellent loader tractor too.
You are correct. The 25E, 25D, 35D, and 43D have the same loaders and capacities are the same. The 32E and 38E have different model loaders but capacities are very similar, almost exactly the same.
Not trying to be a know it all but learned also when checking hydraulic oil make sure bucket is curled back and flat on ground. Reading the book it says to grease zerks every 10 hrs of run time.
The bucket was flat on the ground when I checked the hydraulic fluid. After changing the front axle fluid I went and hoses it off before pulling the filter. I guess I should have shown that in the video. I have been getting 8-10 hours of run time between putting fuel in my tractor. I guess I over looked that in the book and on my other tractor I had it was 10 hours.
@@rsmstuff3178 it’s there not sure under what part I’m guessing the maintenance section I just remembered reading that on the greasing and hydraulic check and the service Dept said the same. I did get my tractor back btw. Hope to add some video but I need to edit it so it’s not so long and probably do like a voice over cause you can’t hear me talk. But I’m not very tech savvy
The transmission fluid is VERY VERY clear. I use a paper towel to see what the level is. What is NOT in the manual is how much to add when it reaches the add mark.🤨 On old autos that had dipsticks it would say add a pint on trans and quart on oil. My 3035D has had to have several "transfusions" because an implement I use has had a couple of hoses pulled or cut off on different occasions, it is hard to see the level and then you have to put some in, check the invisble level on the dipstick and put a bit more in, lather rinse repeat😠. I like mine alot, but for those annoyances that could be avoided by the mfg. making things a bit more clear in instruction and less clear in fluid.
Look at page 85-5. Hy-Gard and Low Viscosity are preferred in the transmission and hydraulic oils. You can use other oil brands but it has to meet J20C or J20D. Temperature of your region will be how you decide which oil to go with. They are using the same for the front axle as the transmission/hydraulic oil. Hopefully this helps some.
I have a 3025D as well, but my manual says to change oil at 400 hours. On page 35, it only tells me to check levels and add if needed. I called the dealer and asked them, they confirmed the first oil change wasn't due until 400 hours. My tractor is now 2 years old, but it only has 50 hours on it. Maybe I need to go ahead and change it? I find it odd that my operating manual would be different from yours. I certainly didn't expect the dealer to agree with 400 hours.
With my experience with oil it should be engine hours or time. Once the oil is exposed to oxygen then it starts to degrade, the additives can deplete over time and make the oil not the same as it was originally. I would rather change it early for a cost on my end vs the oil loosing some of its properties and causing extra wear on my engine.
good evening, My 3025D was running great until today. I put some fuel in yesterday and today i was bush hogging and the tractor just shut off. so i restarted and it started up. Finished up and the tractor got to where i park it and it shut off again. so i waited and it did start but after that it would not so i drain the filter to see if any water was in there or trash but didnt see any, the inline fule pump is on i can hear when I turn the key. So what I am asking can trash be in the tank or was it some bad fuel from the service station. Thank you in advance.
So there is always a possibility of bad fuel. You did the first thing that I would have done. It is getting dark here so mid day tomorrow I will investigate the fuel system and get back to you on where I would go from there.
@@jameswalton8927 I don’t know what your abilities are or how far you want to go into it. I am going to assume the lower fuel filter filled back up with fuel after draining it. I am thinking this is a separator to catch water. Behind the right side panel is a fuel filter, it looks like an oil filter. You could pull it off and dump it into a clean container and see if there is a bunch of trash in it. I would recommend putting fuel into the filter when putting it back on then turn the key on and let the lift pump cycle for a little while to let it push as much air as possible out of the system. From there I would get someone to crank the engine over and crack one of the fuel lines going into one of the injectors. You should just have to break it loose. You should see fuel leaking out. Tighten it back up before you stop turning the engine. Don’t panic if the engine starts up. If it starts just tighten the nut back down. If you don’t get any fuel out while the engine is cranking then I would suspect the fuel shut off solenoid or power supply to it is an issue. At this point I would take I would take mine to the dealer because of it being under warranty. I don’t know where you got your fuel at but I try to get mine where they sell a lot of diesel. The idea behind this is that if they sell a lot of fuel then that have new fuel coming in all the time. Something else would be to pinch the line going into the lift pump. Disconnect the inlet and you could drain some fuel to a container and inspect the inlet of the lift pump for trash. Hopefully this helps some to try to diagnose what is going on. If you need me to be more clear on any of this you can message me back here or at rsmstuff@yahoo.com, this is my email for this channel.
@@rsmstuff3178 My initial service is at 50 hours for the transmission& filter and 400 hours thereafter. There is no interval listed for the front axle. I am going to check under the hood for the recommended intervals as well.
On this video I changed the fluid in the front axle first and then changed the hydraulic fluid filter. The front axle is separate from the hydraulic system so by changing the fluid in the axle I did not loose any from the hydraulic system. I don’t really know if this answers your question or not. If this didn’t answer question your question please reply back.
Very helpful I own the same tractor
Thanks for the great video I just purchased a 3035D so this is helpful
I’m glad to help. Hope you enjoy it.
Great video. I did my 50 hr maintenance back in March on my 3025 E. I had always had hydraulic lift problems. So I thought changing all the fluids all the filters would hopefully fix my problems... well it didn't. So I took it to the dealership and told them. The manager asked me if I had cleaned the hydr. suction screen. Which I didn't even know it had, the owners manual didn't mention to. I'm not sure what all the dealership did but it works fine now. I can actually lift a bucket load of gravel and a 55 gallons of diesel fuel. I couldn't do that before. I'm starting to gain confidence. The first 50 hours my tractor was very wimpy, even the hydrostatic transmission was weak. I had to use low range. High range was out of the question as the tractor could hardly pull itself let alone an implement.
I can almost assure you the D will outdo the E series. The engines on both should have about the same torque but the geared transmission will out pull, therefore out perform the hydrostatic. Ive owned several tractors and this is my very first hydro. Its a good little loader tractor but so ain't the Shuttle Shift. I previously owned a kubota with the Shuttle shift before I got my 3025 E and I loved it. You have 8 forward gears and 8 reverse gears. The Shuttle makes them an excellent loader tractor too.
@Rod Smith The loaders between the two are the same. I would imagine the lift capacities would be exactly the same.
You are correct. The 25E, 25D, 35D, and 43D have the same loaders and capacities are the same. The 32E and 38E have different model loaders but capacities are very similar, almost exactly the same.
Not trying to be a know it all but learned also when checking hydraulic oil make sure bucket is curled back and flat on ground. Reading the book it says to grease zerks every 10 hrs of run time.
The bucket was flat on the ground when I checked the hydraulic fluid. After changing the front axle fluid I went and hoses it off before pulling the filter. I guess I should have shown that in the video. I have been getting 8-10 hours of run time between putting fuel in my tractor. I guess I over looked that in the book and on my other tractor I had it was 10 hours.
@@rsmstuff3178 it’s there not sure under what part I’m guessing the maintenance section I just remembered reading that on the greasing and hydraulic check and the service Dept said the same. I did get my tractor back btw. Hope to add some video but I need to edit it so it’s not so long and probably do like a voice over cause you can’t hear me talk. But I’m not very tech savvy
You'll have it made next time you have to do a service. As far as greasing a machine goes it depends on how much you use it.
The transmission fluid is VERY VERY clear. I use a paper towel to see what the level is. What is NOT in the manual is how much to add when it reaches the add mark.🤨 On old autos that had dipsticks it would say add a pint on trans and quart on oil. My 3035D has had to have several "transfusions" because an implement I use has had a couple of hoses pulled or cut off on different occasions, it is hard to see the level and then you have to put some in, check the invisble level on the dipstick and put a bit more in, lather rinse repeat😠. I like mine alot, but for those annoyances that could be avoided by the mfg. making things a bit more clear in instruction and less clear in fluid.
I have a JD 3025D, Manual calls for front axle to use J20C axle oil. Is that the same as the Hy-Guard 22000? Thanks.
Look at page 85-5. Hy-Gard and Low Viscosity are preferred in the transmission and hydraulic oils. You can use other oil brands but it has to meet J20C or J20D. Temperature of your region will be how you decide which oil to go with. They are using the same for the front axle as the transmission/hydraulic oil. Hopefully this helps some.
I have a 3025D as well, but my manual says to change oil at 400 hours. On page 35, it only tells me to check levels and add if needed. I called the dealer and asked them, they confirmed the first oil change wasn't due until 400 hours. My tractor is now 2 years old, but it only has 50 hours on it. Maybe I need to go ahead and change it? I find it odd that my operating manual would be different from yours. I certainly didn't expect the dealer to agree with 400 hours.
Im just going to go by this. www.deere.com/assets/pdfs/common/qrg/3d-series-north-america-edition.pdf
With my experience with oil it should be engine hours or time. Once the oil is exposed to oxygen then it starts to degrade, the additives can deplete over time and make the oil not the same as it was originally. I would rather change it early for a cost on my end vs the oil loosing some of its properties and causing extra wear on my engine.
good evening, My 3025D was running great until today. I put some fuel in yesterday and today i was bush hogging and the tractor just shut off. so i restarted and it started up. Finished up and the tractor got to where i park it and it shut off again. so i waited and it did start but after that it would not so i drain the filter to see if any water was in there or trash but didnt see any, the inline fule pump is on i can hear when I turn the key. So what I am asking can trash be in the tank or was it some bad fuel from the service station. Thank you in advance.
So there is always a possibility of bad fuel. You did the first thing that I would have done. It is getting dark here so mid day tomorrow I will investigate the fuel system and get back to you on where I would go from there.
@@rsmstuff3178 thank you for the reply back.
@@jameswalton8927 I don’t know what your abilities are or how far you want to go into it. I am going to assume the lower fuel filter filled back up with fuel after draining it. I am thinking this is a separator to catch water. Behind the right side panel is a fuel filter, it looks like an oil filter. You could pull it off and dump it into a clean container and see if there is a bunch of trash in it. I would recommend putting fuel into the filter when putting it back on then turn the key on and let the lift pump cycle for a little while to let it push as much air as possible out of the system. From there I would get someone to crank the engine over and crack one of the fuel lines going into one of the injectors. You should just have to break it loose. You should see fuel leaking out. Tighten it back up before you stop turning the engine. Don’t panic if the engine starts up. If it starts just tighten the nut back down. If you don’t get any fuel out while the engine is cranking then I would suspect the fuel shut off solenoid or power supply to it is an issue. At this point I would take I would take mine to the dealer because of it being under warranty. I don’t know where you got your fuel at but I try to get mine where they sell a lot of diesel. The idea behind this is that if they sell a lot of fuel then that have new fuel coming in all the time. Something else would be to pinch the line going into the lift pump. Disconnect the inlet and you could drain some fuel to a container and inspect the inlet of the lift pump for trash. Hopefully this helps some to try to diagnose what is going on. If you need me to be more clear on any of this you can message me back here or at rsmstuff@yahoo.com, this is my email for this channel.
Did you just replace the hydraulic filter without draining the whole hydraulic fluids.
Yes
When checking the oil level sprinkle baby powder on it and it will show up weather wipe off
Wet.
Never heard that trick before, but that would definitely work.
I checked my owner manual and it only says transmission fluid and filter. Nothing about the front axle.
In my manual on page 35-2, in the break in period to change the MFWD axle oil after the 1st 100 hours then every 600 hours thereafter.
@@rsmstuff3178 My initial service is at 50 hours for the transmission& filter and 400 hours thereafter. There is no interval listed for the front axle. I am going to check under the hood for the recommended intervals as well.
gilt das auch für den 3039r
Y did u change n put new fluids in first!!! now your loosing new fluid with that filter removal!!!
On this video I changed the fluid in the front axle first and then changed the hydraulic fluid filter. The front axle is separate from the hydraulic system so by changing the fluid in the axle I did not loose any from the hydraulic system. I don’t really know if this answers your question or not. If this didn’t answer question your question please reply back.