Just to help out a little. Remove upper radiator hose then take the 4 boats out of the compressor an unplug it take the whole compressor lines everything folded around upside down and lay it back on passenger side inner fender. Then you can pull alternator. No worry on losing freon.
Thanks for making this video. I am in the middle of this job right now and it is helpful even though my engine is a 5.2L. One thing I learned AFTER I removed my water pump to replace it is that, at least on my engine, about 3 or 4 of the water pump bolts also hold the timing chain cover in place so when I removed those bolts to pull the water pump, I disturbed my timing cover gasket and, had I not seen that on some videos, I would have put it all back together only to find it leaking shortly thereafter. So, while I have everything ripped apart I am now doing the timing chain and gears and the cover gasket as well. My van is a 1998 Dodge B1500 and there is no room under that hood so I only want to do all of this once, ha ha.
Doing mine on a 360 magnum, it only sprung a coolant leak on the timing cover gasket and the engine is a remanufacturered motor only 5 years old. Removed all that then discovered the timing chain has slack in it. On top of all of it. The AC alternator bracket broke off 2 AC compressor bolts upon removing the ac pump. Just gets better and better 😂
For anyone searching for this video, I just did this and have a few tips that were left out of this. First of all, there is a thin bracket on the ac compressor lines. You can open that and spread the lines enough to get to the bolt on the ac compressor. You do not have to remove the ac lines from the compressor. Also, remove the fan, fan clutch, and fan shroud asap. Get it out of the way. Once you get to the timing chain, the two dots should line up like in the video. When removing the top pulley, you can put a screwdriver or something through the hole in the pulley and the block to break the pulley free. When putting the pulley or pulleys back on, move the bottom pulley out just a hair to give you enough slack so that you don't have to hammer the top pulley on. Then, slide them both on together. If you purchase a kit with the pulleys, watch out when sliding the bottom pulley off. I have heard of the key falling into the oil pan. Good luck!
They are called timing gears, and bending of the ac lines is about as redneck as what’s in this video. Just take the damned captive bolt out last with a wrench set the ac compressor aside and leave it captured. Damn some of you guys are cavemen
You explained it better than half of these morons that are making these videos and leaving out a lot of details Of course always figure it out. We ain’t got a choice. .. a matter of how long it takes you to do it
Mine leaked water in the same place. Must be because that is the narrow side or something. 12 years since the last time I did it. Got 400,000 on the original chain. It was rubbing on the cover it was so loose, making a lot of racket.
Thank you for the video I’m about to do my timing chain replacement and this video is going to be very useful, I’m wondering if I should also do a video that way there are 2 videos on UA-cam with people that change the 2nd gen Dodge T-chains haha
It was a good thing this guy needed to go back in there, the bypass hose should have been replaced at the time he changed the water pump, plus FYI, the pipe on the water pump that he called an overflow is actually the heater supply pipe.
Thanks , your video is a good tutor for taking some of the worry out of doing a task like this for the first time. I was wondering if heating the chain in the oven before installation would help to give just a bit more slack for installation ? Also, no slack tensioner ? Did the engine run any smoother or better performance when complete ? J K
James Krivitsky not sure about heating the chain. Good thought though... I've had to heat other parts in the past. I didn't notice a change in performance. There are some good tips in some of the other comments. Check those out, they'll help you out and save you a few steps. Thanks for watching!
Best to replace it before it becomes a major repair. I'm getting to 305,000 miles on my 3.9l v6 in my Dakota. Couldn't find a video on that engine but I do have a 5.9l diesel ram that's an 2006 so it might be a little different but so far, dodge has kept a lot of stuff in about the same spot more or less within model years. Probably not a bad idea to check the one on my ram but I should certainly replace the one on my Dakota.
I removed my 5.2 l magnum heads, pulled the pistons out, replaced them. I did not remove the distributor or cam. When i replaced the cam chain, I noticed when the dots on both sprockets are aligned, the the distributor points to no 6 cylinder, not no 1, even though no 1 is at the top of it's stroke. I was sure to keep the distributor gear and cam gear engaged at all times. Rotating the cam or crank 360 does not change the distributor pointing to no 6. The engine ran fine before my head gasket blew..Is this normal?
@@SneakAttackFilms so. New chain is on and about to out the cover back on. The sprockets are lined up perfectly dot down and up. Does it matter which way I put the balancer back on? I'm imagining it totally does because of the weight the crank throws?
@@SneakAttackFilms no! stop giving bad information. when the two timing dots are aligned at 43:50 (you say six o'clock, twelve o'clock) the number six cylinder is on compression ready to fire and number one cylinder is starting the intake stroke. that myth you just perpetuated causes people to install the distributor 180 degrees out.
@@axlegrind4212 Bruh! Chillax! Show me the distributor in this new of a vehicle...the type of distirbutor you are referring to anyway. There's no cap and rotor, no changing position by rotating it. Lining up the timing marks as I described in this situation kept everything where it needed to be. Thanks
@@axlegrind4212 ok, so you say it's the exhaust stroke. Great! Still has nothing to do with whatever the hell you talking about regarding the position of the distributor.... Thanks for your excellent customer service 👍.
I needed to replace the water pump. The truck had over 200k at the time I think, not sure. I figured change it while I was in there. I've waited until they have broke on other vehicles. This was a good investment in time and resources to not to worry about the chain.
@@SneakAttackFilms did you get an aftermarket timing chain or a mopar one ,did you heard any suspicious noise ,rattling ??.Im asking because i want to change a water pump and a drive belt ,and I dont know if I should change a timing chain too. Thanks
@@maciejolejniczak151 I bought an after market part. Moog, is the brand I use whenever possible. No noise, but there chain did have some slop to it, typical stretching for a vehicle with that many miles. The engine would have been fine if the chain had broken, because it's non-interference, valves do not get jacked up when the timing chain breaks. But I've been stuck on the side of the road with other trucks when the timing chain breaks and I didn't want to deal with that. So I changed it out.... And re-timing and engine can be a pain sometimes. If your vehicle has a timing belt, and it has 60k or more on it, if change it for sure. Check to see what the recommended mileage for changing the timing belt/chain is just to be safe.
Alex Landers Really? Cause ALL that environmentally safe refrigerant that turned from a gas into a luiqid when it was decompressed and O2 hit it dripped onto my driveway that I later cleaned up with a shop rag completely ruined the environment and atmosphere....wait no, my run-on sentence did more damage to the environment. Now had it been freon, maybe would have worried about it. Actually, no. But thanks for the comment and thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe.
Just to help out a little. Remove upper radiator hose then take the 4 boats out of the compressor an unplug it take the whole compressor lines everything folded around upside down and lay it back on passenger side inner fender. Then you can pull alternator. No worry on losing freon.
Thanks for making this video. I am in the middle of this job right now and it is helpful even though my engine is a 5.2L. One thing I learned AFTER I removed my water pump to replace it is that, at least on my engine, about 3 or 4 of the water pump bolts also hold the timing chain cover in place so when I removed those bolts to pull the water pump, I disturbed my timing cover gasket and, had I not seen that on some videos, I would have put it all back together only to find it leaking shortly thereafter. So, while I have everything ripped apart I am now doing the timing chain and gears and the cover gasket as well. My van is a 1998 Dodge B1500 and there is no room under that hood so I only want to do all of this once, ha ha.
You are correct, a water pump replacement also requires the timing cover to be resealed
Doing mine on a 360 magnum, it only sprung a coolant leak on the timing cover gasket and the engine is a remanufacturered motor only 5 years old. Removed all that then discovered the timing chain has slack in it. On top of all of it. The AC alternator bracket broke off 2 AC compressor bolts upon removing the ac pump. Just gets better and better 😂
Its always great to see people doing it themselves. I been for years . Save a lot of money.
For anyone searching for this video, I just did this and have a few tips that were left out of this. First of all, there is a thin bracket on the ac compressor lines. You can open that and spread the lines enough to get to the bolt on the ac compressor. You do not have to remove the ac lines from the compressor. Also, remove the fan, fan clutch, and fan shroud asap. Get it out of the way. Once you get to the timing chain, the two dots should line up like in the video. When removing the top pulley, you can put a screwdriver or something through the hole in the pulley and the block to break the pulley free. When putting the pulley or pulleys back on, move the bottom pulley out just a hair to give you enough slack so that you don't have to hammer the top pulley on. Then, slide them both on together. If you purchase a kit with the pulleys, watch out when sliding the bottom pulley off. I have heard of the key falling into the oil pan. Good luck!
They are called timing gears, and bending of the ac lines is about as redneck as what’s in this video. Just take the damned captive bolt out last with a wrench set the ac compressor aside and leave it captured. Damn some of you guys are cavemen
You explained it better than half of these morons that are making these videos and leaving out a lot of details
Of course always figure it out. We ain’t got a choice. .. a matter of how long it takes you to do it
The pointy thing below the cam sprocket is the oil drip tab .
Thanks for the footage man, was great to see someone go through this before attempting it.
McFarlandAdam glad it helped.
Wouldn't have to worry about the compression stroke if you take out the spark plugs, thanks for the video man I'm sure it will come in use for me!
This is very similar to my 1994 dodge van B150. Thank you for the tutorial, it has motivated me to do mine now.
Yooo I’m doing mine soon I’d love to bounce stuff off someone else that’s done it with just questions please
Saving this video to do the job. Much Appreciated !
I love this vid lmao “I wish I was rich” as I just bought one of these things for 600 bucks wish me luck getting it back to a running vehicle
One tip: Don't use a steel hammer too tap a pulley on, use a rubber or wooden mallet.
Mine leaked water in the same place. Must be because that is the narrow side or something. 12 years since the last time I did it. Got 400,000 on the original chain. It was rubbing on the cover it was so loose, making a lot of racket.
Thank you for the video I’m about to do my timing chain replacement and this video is going to be very useful, I’m wondering if I should also do a video that way there are 2 videos on UA-cam with people that change the 2nd gen Dodge T-chains haha
How long did this end up taking you? Thanks so much for making the video. I may make one when I'm doing mine for a class project.
Its easier to push both sprockets on at the same time . Those chains dont flex much...
Thank you for the tip.
It was a good thing this guy needed to go back in there, the bypass hose should have been replaced at the time he changed the water pump, plus FYI, the pipe on the water pump that he called an overflow is actually the heater supply pipe.
Thanks for your input.
300,000. K miles on my dodge 5.9 4dr dakota and I'm doing this just because water was leaking from the TC cover ..
Thanks , your video is a good tutor for taking some of the worry out of doing a task like this for the first time. I was wondering if heating the chain in the oven before installation would help to give just a bit more slack for installation ? Also, no slack tensioner ? Did the engine run any smoother or better performance when complete ? J K
James Krivitsky not sure about heating the chain. Good thought though... I've had to heat other parts in the past. I didn't notice a change in performance. There are some good tips in some of the other comments. Check those out, they'll help you out and save you a few steps. Thanks for watching!
You don’t want the chain to have slack, that’s the idea
Best to replace it before it becomes a major repair. I'm getting to 305,000 miles on my 3.9l v6 in my Dakota. Couldn't find a video on that engine but I do have a 5.9l diesel ram that's an 2006 so it might be a little different but so far, dodge has kept a lot of stuff in about the same spot more or less within model years. Probably not a bad idea to check the one on my ram but I should certainly replace the one on my Dakota.
The diesel one is a whole different world from this engine
I removed my 5.2 l magnum heads, pulled the pistons out, replaced them. I did not remove the distributor or cam. When i replaced the cam chain, I noticed when the dots on both sprockets are aligned, the the distributor points to no 6 cylinder, not no 1, even though no 1 is at the top of it's stroke. I was sure to keep the distributor gear and cam gear engaged at all times. Rotating the cam or crank 360 does not change the distributor pointing to no 6. The engine ran fine before my head gasket blew..Is this normal?
p al , if it ran, I guess it's fine.
Put a socket with breaker bar, wedge it and do a quick crank of the motor and it will break loose.
So do I need to pull plugs? How did you get your sprockets to line up perfectly? I'm imagining when I pull the cover they will be at a random angle
If your chain breaks, you’ll need to re-time it. Lining up the timing marks, make sure #1 cylinder is at top dead center (pull #1 plug to verify.
@@SneakAttackFilms so. New chain is on and about to out the cover back on. The sprockets are lined up perfectly dot down and up. Does it matter which way I put the balancer back on? I'm imagining it totally does because of the weight the crank throws?
50:52 THAT REALLY HURTS MY TUMMY
I knew EXACTLY what he was talking about
What if only drivers side of the chain is sloppy but passengers side of the chain is really tight?
Slop of any kind means the chain has stretched. I’d replace it.
We're you experiencing tapping prior?
No. It was just time to change it due to mileage.
Replace the sprockets?
If they are worn, I think there is bigger issues.
watched a couple of these vids, I guess no one changes that bottom gear on the crank ha?
I've only replaced the gears on a full engine rebuild. If the teeth are showing wear, then I'd replace fo sho.
You would think, they come in the kit and are matched
Top dead center of the compression stroke or exhaust?
Chuck Spaeth , compression
@@SneakAttackFilms no! stop giving bad information. when the two timing dots are aligned at 43:50 (you say six o'clock, twelve o'clock) the number six cylinder is on compression ready to fire and number one cylinder is starting the intake stroke. that myth you just perpetuated causes people to install the distributor 180 degrees out.
@@axlegrind4212 Bruh! Chillax! Show me the distributor in this new of a vehicle...the type of distirbutor you are referring to anyway. There's no cap and rotor, no changing position by rotating it. Lining up the timing marks as I described in this situation kept everything where it needed to be. Thanks
@@SneakAttackFilms question: _Top dead center of the compression stroke or exhaust?_
your answer: compression.
*incorrect* _end of story!_
@@axlegrind4212 ok, so you say it's the exhaust stroke. Great! Still has nothing to do with whatever the hell you talking about regarding the position of the distributor.... Thanks for your excellent customer service 👍.
Why you had to.change your timing chain ??
I needed to replace the water pump. The truck had over 200k at the time I think, not sure. I figured change it while I was in there. I've waited until they have broke on other vehicles. This was a good investment in time and resources to not to worry about the chain.
@@SneakAttackFilms did you get an aftermarket timing chain or a mopar one ,did you heard any suspicious noise ,rattling ??.Im asking because i want to change a water pump and a drive belt ,and I dont know if I should change a timing chain too. Thanks
@@maciejolejniczak151 I bought an after market part. Moog, is the brand I use whenever possible. No noise, but there chain did have some slop to it, typical stretching for a vehicle with that many miles. The engine would have been fine if the chain had broken, because it's non-interference, valves do not get jacked up when the timing chain breaks. But I've been stuck on the side of the road with other trucks when the timing chain breaks and I didn't want to deal with that. So I changed it out.... And re-timing and engine can be a pain sometimes. If your vehicle has a timing belt, and it has 60k or more on it, if change it for sure. Check to see what the recommended mileage for changing the timing belt/chain is just to be safe.
You could have removed the compressor first. Put it aside then removed the alternator. Instead of releasing refrigerant into the atmosphere......
Alex Landers Really? Cause ALL that environmentally safe refrigerant that turned from a gas into a luiqid when it was decompressed and O2 hit it dripped onto my driveway that I later cleaned up with a shop rag completely ruined the environment and atmosphere....wait no, my run-on sentence did more damage to the environment. Now had it been freon, maybe would have worried about it. Actually, no. But thanks for the comment and thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe.
SneakAttack Films ™ © didn’t mean to be rude mate just telling you that when I did my timing chain all you have to do is take off the 4 bolts holding the compressor on and just move it to the side. Then you don’t have to recharge your a/c. Just for future reference.
Only a complete moron removes ac lines instead of complete compressor w/lines still attached !
It took me probably 3 hrs
Hows it running now?
@@paulkennedy-warrington8665 good as new.