OM642 Oil cooler seals DIY guide and timelapse!
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- Опубліковано 6 кві 2018
- A complete guide and time-lapse of the reassembily phase of Changing the oil cooler seals in an OM642 Mercedes engine.
-Feel free to comment any questions you may have, and I will respond when given the opportunity!
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By popular request, the swirl flap delete resistor is at 25:50 in the video. i DON'T show the physical delete of the swirl flaps, i didn't have my camera with me when that was done.
I very much doubt that this trick with the resistor works. This is not a delete but more like an emulation/emulator. A delete would be a software modification...
@@Dima-jq3mj it's worked without throwing a code on my 2007 E320 Bluetec for over 2 years.
I have a 2009 ml320, can I still put in the resistor ? if so, how would that effect the intact hardware?
MBDieselFreak - awesome video. Just bought a used 2012 E350 Bluetec and need an oil cooler replaced. Do you do work on the side? I am in IL. Thanks!
So you deleted the whole swirl flap system ?
Just done this job on my 2009 ML280, with help from this fantastic guide. Invaluable, thank you!
This is one of the best how-to's I've seen in a long time. Well done sir! Subscribed :)
Absolute gold!!!! Great video. I had already done the job when i found this but great great video. Thank you for the time and effort. First time commenting and I felt this deserved the praise. Well done Sir
thank you for the video, well done fantastic work, a true gentleman
thank you for the details. Really helped me with this job.
Great video. One thing to mention is the replacement of the PCV tube and Batwing to Turbo silicone seal replacement. I noticed the PCV seal was smooth. It should have 3 small ribs to assist sealing to the Batwing tube. Otherwise an awesome video. extremely helpful. Tackling mine this weekend.
From what I understand the bulk of the job is removing the turn on top and the two intake manifolds. Supposedly removing the turbo can be the hardest of all.
I just got a 2008 Sprinter with 235k miles and it's leaking oil like crazy, convinced it's the oil cooler seal rings.
I've changed my oil on my other sprinter which is 2006 (t1n model) and done small repairs on that.
Very tempted to do this on my newly purchased 2008 sprinter.
Great video!
Great video! Really helpful! Clean and nice job!
Absolutely awesome!! Great job! This tutorial will be running when I do my oil cooler seal repair very soon on my GL350! Thanks again.
havcxxx Hi!!
I have a 2012 GL350 and need to replace the seals to, did you replace yours already? Also where did you buy the replacement parts from?
Thank you.
How often do you replace them? It’s such a pain
@@eleddi597 IDParts has the kit.
Just got my E280 CDI. Videos like these are so inspiring, makes it seem like even a "catastrophic" fault isn't impossible to fix on these engines.
Nothing is impossible to fix if you're adventurous enough lmao
Nice video of the V6 OM642.
This is the single most helpful video on UA-cam. Thank you. My turbo just went and im going to do the oil cooler seals while im at it.
Did you change the oil cooler seals? How'd it go?
@@J87513 The bolts on the back of the turbo are truly a nightmare. I actually only got two in out of three on the one side then gave up after several hours of righting with it. Other then that, jobs pretty straight forward. Keep everything organized and do it all in a weekend (not like me and do it over two months).
brilliant video, well detailed, I have the same engine in my e class. I like how everything went back clean :-) thats how I like to work....... SUBSCRIBED
Thank you for posting. Even the factory manual doesn't explain these details. R320 CDI the toughest benz to work on
Excellent Video very helpful I am going to tackle this summer.
Impressive video - and one of the reasons why I still love my OM648.
Blackjack666 Me too! Hahaha. I do love the om642 as well, it's a real work horse for it's weight and size.
@@MBDieselFreak i have had my 642 since last june and it is great. the van is 4.2 tons and will happily tow another 2 ton on the back.. far better than the old van . 282k miles on it atm too
All modern Mercedes common rail diesels are very good engines! The om642 suffered the most problems, but none were serious problems such as actual serious internal components needing to be replaced.
@@MBDieselFreak I would be curios what the things to look out for are, i have so far found out early engines had issues with the oil cooler seal. the glow plugs and/or relay tend to die and of course the black death injector seal issue. I had an issue with the alternator Y cable so made a new one up with 70mm cable and ran separate cables to alt/starter. (it is a 200A alt, main and large aux battery system). this greatly improved charging and cranking.
648 is a great engine until the head cracks between the valves and every second-hand one you find is also cracked... I'll take the oil cooler leaks over that any day of the week.
Awesome - I did this job and it is a real bugger. It will take a couple of days for the best shade tree mechanic. Who ever designed this piece crap should be pilloried in the centre of town. My one tip is to take a piece of styrofoam and a sharpie and make a diagram of the engine and as you remove bolts stick them into the foam the spot you removed them. Mercedes has a bad habit of using specific bolts all over the place.when they could have easily used a couple of different sizes. Use anti seize and loctite where suggested.
Just starting this.. Excellent video!
At last a proper mechanic 😎
Excellent job with the video, I pulled the wiper and cowl when I did mine in the W164 and it expedited the process by nearly an hour, none of the fussing you're discussing with the heat shield. The wiper came off in 10 minutes, the rest of the cowl was instant. World of difference.
Also, discovered the fastener that holds the linkage to the swirl flaps motor was loose! Boy did the engine run smoother and torquier after the repair.
Hey Mark. You said you pulled the wiper cowl but in front of that sits the heat shield. What vehicle did you do this on?
David Garner Dave, first I remove the wiper blades second the plastic shield over the wiper motor and what not kind of snaps out of place I think there’s one or two fasteners holding it which totally exposes the wiper motor that comes right out I think there’s three fasteners that hold that. The shield around the back of the engine is held in place for immediate removal with 10 mm headed bolts. It’s designed to come apart for maintenance and go back together easily it’s very modular
Everything is so clean 🤩
Excellent video, now subscribed thanks again.
good job goot info i want to mention when you start the engine you dont to crank so much, just turn the key to on possition and live it for a min. or so and it bleed by itself
A couple comments. My car is a 2011, E350 Blu Tec now as of May 2020 has 35,000 miles. The oil is changed every 5K or so. At 25,000 miles I started using the Turbo Maxx oil additive 1/2 oz per quart of engine oil, Mobile ESP 0-30w, I think this should improve the carbon and the wear problems on the timing chain. I also use the Turbo Maxx c-4 fuel additive 1cc per 3 gallons. The use of the oil additive increased mileage from 32 mpg to 36 mpg. The use of the fuel additive increased this to 38-43 mpg. Mr. Ellison has accurately predicted the improvements. I was surprised, so I will keep using. I am hoping the cleaning ability of the oil additive helps with the coking problem. I plan some bore scope investigation during the summer. The EGR system does not seem overly dirty though I did clean the EGR valve for maintenance at 25,000 miles.
I note by 25,000 miles the turbo housing to inlet horn (red) gasket had failed due to combination of compression set and vibration wear. I replaced the small red PCV hose seal also. I will note the inlet horn and the mass flow air sensors needed replacing due to imbalance of calibration (shows as EGR flow issue) as the ecu calculates the EGR flow from the MAF sensors, due to contamination of sensors. Do not ever try to remove or clean the sensors for routine maintenance as that will put out of calibration... or attempt to clean (already tried those solutions). Learned about the calibration sensitivity issue was the real issue, by carefully checking the data coming from the sensors during a driving cycle. If you get a code from this it shows as a EGR flow issue not as a MAF sensor reading... you have to look into the MAF sensor real time data.
After some investigation of the PCV system I believe it has some design issues which could be improved to minimize oil carryover. System is designed just too lazy to install. I believe that the problem is both a long term efficiency problem with the centrifugal air-oil separator, the separator being marginal in design capacity, and the system experiences too high crankcase pressure during certain parts of operation. I think a catch can solution would be inadequate, and a more robust solution attempted. I will not most vehicles have much better air oil separation designed in the valve cover baffle sheet metal attached to underside to the inside of the engine (no catch can is going to work better). It appears the crank case pressure increase under certain loadings and speeds of engine. This is a small increase of a few inches of water column pressure but I think that is where the issue is.
So far other than some electrical connections becoming brittle things are doing well. I will replace some of these connectors this summer.
Gutes Video, ausführlich.
Fantastic video.
Thank you for the video, I own a 2012 GL with the OM642 engine, the seals were replaced within 6 weeks of ownership from new by the dealer under warranty (They were the Viton seals). I have just done the seals a second time at 163,000Km, just out of warranty. The job for most part is quite easy with a lot of patience, the worst part is the swirl motor arm connections. To do these the easy way the swirl motor should be installed when both manifolds are on a work surface. I did mine after the manifolds were in place and I'm now in the process of doing them again, one of the clips broke. The only solution is a very small dab of superglue to hold the clips together while they are pressed back into place, the only issue is glue spreading into the sphere and reducing the friction around the ball. If my current attempt fails I will buy 8 clips and try again next weekend.
Next up, the dreaded timing chain, which I am not going to challenge.
I decided against the super glue method, the glue spreads to easily into the ball socket and adds to much friction. My next attempt was quite quick with new connectors. I connected the arms to the flap control arm first, then connected the swirl motor.
@@tynesidesteelerectors994 There is a guy who selsl a metal replacement part for the swirl connectors. Do a google search.
Aaaah-Mazing!! 👍
Thankyou
Great job! Thanks alot!
@MBDieselFreak Thank you VERY MUCH for making this video and the one on replacing the turbo core. They helped me complete both repairs and with them I saved thousands and lots of grief. Details in your video, like the indexing of the turbo exhaust gasket made it possible for me to tackle this repair. If you're contemplating doing this job two things that cost me lots of time and frustration were the reassembly of the turbo exhaust pipe and the air cooler piping; both seem trivial but if you torque everything up and try to reconnect these, their (ever so slight) misalignment may make it impossible to put them back together, so thread every bolt, then hand tighten, THEN torque wrench them down. Specifically, on the turbo: thread the 4 bolts that hold the turbo down, the two that hold the egr line to the turbo, and the exhaust clamp, then begin tightening all 7 bolts. Also, print out CourtneyW's 21 pdfs on MBWorld.org and take notes as you tick off each step. Those pdfs, this video, careful documentation of which bolts go where and a little determination will help you save a lot of money and frustration. mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w164/742069-instructions-replacing-oil-cooler-seals.html
Fantastic video and fantastic job. I heard so many people saying that this is a major disassembly and now I really believe that this is a major disassemble. I have this car and I ask myself:" why Mercedes Benz installed an oil cooler in a place so hard to have access" ? A part of the car that obviously will need to have seals replaced someday.
Is this why many mechanics cal as "infamous oil cooler"?
Thanks for this fantastic video.
Love your job very nice
Great video!!
Great video
Thank you for your video. Really excellent job.
Concerning the swirl flap delete? How did you do that? Can you post a short DIY-Manual?
Great Video Thank you,,,
I could have done with this a couple of years back, would have attempted myself and saved probably £600
Nice beautiful video
Good video. You put a resistor in a connector near the turbo and taped it up. I missed what it had been connected to and what that was about (swirl actuator motor in the intake?). I have never worked on a diesel or turbocharged engine before and this is really helpful in getting my confidence up, but there are a lot of bolts, tubes, hoses and wires to test my memory and ability to organize the removed bits and bolts.
The connector is for the swirl flap motor. The oil passes the internal turbo seal and drips onto the connector and creates limp home issues. By disconnecting the connector and putting in place 4.7 ohm resistor, you are tricking the ECU in thinking that the swirl flaps and motor are ok and so won't trigger limp home mode. i would also tape up the top of the connector that the plug end with the resistor plugs into.
If the turbo is leaking it is always good practice to sort out the leak, but that obviously depends on funds. a stripdown and rebuild will be cheaper than buying a new unit.
my best advice is to do like i did, and film the complete disassembly and reassembly process so that you have actual FOOTAGE of where everything went.
Great tips James, I just wanted to know we lock the swirl flap open when we remove the motor?
@@MBDieselFreak Would you be able to add the time tags to the comments so we can see where the swirl flap motor delete process starts and ends please? Thanks
I have 2008 dodge sprinter and the engine pretty same.There is a same 4.7 k resistor in sameplace, but i didn't understand what is that for? Someone putted the same resistor in the similar socket, i think this socket has to be connect with intake manifold activator, that's why activator doesn't work because it's not connected. I started the engine and push the gas pedal, but activator didn't move. Im really wonder that what is wrong? Could you please give me some information? Thank you.
Good job man, doing that right now on a Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0
Mine is a 2007 3.0 I have 123K miles and it's starting to leak. Sprinter shop told me this is common and will need to be done. How many miles did yours have before you did this?
The oil leakage comes when it comes but 123k miles is not unusal and the Jeep had a bit more.(Friend of mine where i did it) We have a daily drive Chrysler 300 C CRD with 300.000 km here in Germany (ca 188 k miles) and it's still ok fortunately. @@GoldGunsandGolf
Thank you for replying.@@frontsidegrinder6858
Excellent
Smartest video ever.
+1. .. Excellent. .. Thanks!
Congratulations u really know
Like a lesson thans fron Brazil
Some basic common sense love it🤣😂big job done many already common on the 3.0 crd
Awesome video really helped me out on reassembling!! Can I ask why you took all the spill pipes off as i found there was ample room to leave then on?
I will start in upcomming days to do the same for my c320 cdi (om642). Do you recommend that I must use a torque wrench?
Hello, a very good video. I will recommend your channel. I have this pb on my e320 cdi. Do you have a garage or do you work at your own count?
Fantastic video, what time is needed for total change, disassembly and assembly
Hey MBDiesel, I came from legitstreet cars. I was looking into getting a Diesel Benz after coming from a terrible Audi A4, and I'm curious on your opinion regarding the OM642 reliability compared to the inline 6 from 02-05. Anything inherent that I should check out first when looking at a car with a OM642?
you're incredible,,
thanks
great video thanks could you tell how the turbo output aluminium pipe comes off. mine seems real tight and i dont want to break it ?
@mbdieselfreak are there any gaskets or one use bolts that should/need to be replaced during this process? I'm going to attempt on 2011 MB Sprinter 2500, I've never done any engine work before but have done most other repairs. Will also be replacing timing chain, tensioner, and possibly guide rails + sprockets while I'm there.
This job I am currently doing sucks ass! The bolts are froze and rescue the bolt buster induction heater. Tonight I am watching this video and drinking some Jim Beam whiskey
Hi MBfreak I have done the swirl flap resistor mod about 8 months ago in your opinion how long is this mod good for? Thanks
The hole at the back by the oil cooler with the drain running into it is that a drain hole? Does that flush everything down and out of the oil cooler compartment?
Thanks a million . Very useful. Saved me loads of time.
One thing how did you blank of the swirl flaps?
iirc you don't blank 'em. with 'em removed the ports are completely open.
@@tonyandhelen8126 Hi
Of course one does not black off the flap.
But the arm of the flap to the link needs to be blanked. I have seen people weld up the hole.
I tapped and put a bolt of correct length with some lock tight..
Just for other people going to do this the flaps need to be milled out.
hi,great vid,whats the reasoning behind swirl flap delete
The best
Great video
How can you tell if you have a leak
I’m driving a 2008 GL 320 with 135 500 miles, just had the dealer change transmission fluid and nothing was said about an oil leak, I’m hoping they would say something if a problem was noticed..
Hi MB, where can I get the torque volumes for this job?
Great video. I’m in the process of doing this job and decided to delete the swirl flaps.
I have the 2 magnet sensors as mine is a 2014.
Do you know if putting the wire in the 2 middle slots will still work for mine or is there an additional step I need to take.
Thanks in advance.
Very helpful video. Thanks. How did you block the holes from whirl flaps?
Weld them
Good video! I was wondering if you’ve changed the oil cooler, or just the two purple O rings? I’v just finished changing the seals on my E class, and the oil leak is still present( I’ve seen a few oil drops on the drive way)...I didn’t used a torque wrench though on the oil cooler bolts.
must be the old oil that stucked in the hole of the engine bloc
How did that swirl flap delete work for you? Any issues?
Thanks for the video. Just a few questions. How did you remove the EGR torx closest to the fire wall on the exhaust? Was it still on the car? If still in the ML would you use an Impact Deep Well Extractor Bolt-Grip socket?
I didn't remove the exhaust side if the egr tube, only the side that went into the cooler. Made it slot easier to remove those Torx bolts.
@@MBDieselFreak so when you say you "re bent" the tube, you left it connected on the exhaust side??
what i need is the hoses to the egr and the one that goes to intake, that connects to fire wall.
*NOTICE* for 2009+ bluetec owners, DO NOT attempt swirl flap delete on your cars, you have extra flap position sensors on yours that can't be deleted (to my knowledge), I don't want you getting any CEL's after permanently deleting those flaps.
Have you reflashed the ECM? Just curious if you've tried it. I can't find much for the late model Merc diesels.
@@advgabe no i have not! all 5 of my cars are stock.
@@MBDieselFreak I did the resistor bypass trick on my failed motor, which keeps the car out of limp-home mode. But yeah I still have the intake runner failure CEL. If any has tried the Malone tune let me know! A 5¢ resistor is way cheaper than a $1000 reflash. Lol
Having a hard time finding videos of people doing the swirl flap motor delete... but i've seen some people just put in the resistor? Would that work on a 2007 e320 bluetec?
@@EthanDenny yes it would! If your linkage is still intact it would fix any check engine lights you may be having.
How long does this take? Is it a job that's easy to do yourself? Or is it a "should be done by repairshop" thing?
Did you put anti-seize on the bolts when doing the reinstall of parts?
Sir i have a question, im about to do my oil cooler and new turbo because when spinning by hand i feel a tight spot on turbo plus blue smoke.I deleted my swirl flap last year do i need to leave the motor out when refitting and what about the arms? Do i just leave flaps open with arms attached? I am a home diy mechanic on my mercedes cls om642.I am nervous to do this job ive already taken Turbo off no problem no snapped bolts which was my other worry but all ok.regards Scott
Great information on this repair! When do you replace vs reuse the oil cooler? There’s 2 aftermarket coolers from China available and 1 Mercedes from Germany, what’s your thoughts? How do you cleanup those manifolds, they look new? Many thanks.
Do you have to drain the antifreeze???
I did the job started the car but forgot to tighten the 2 screws on the turbo top T40 or whatever it is and oil came out. Now the car will not start just cranks over do i need to take everything off and clean the mess then start again as it might have a sensor or something that detects a lot of oil in the general area preventing the car to start or it should start regardless? thanks
Hey man, is there any way you can cover the timing chain replacement on OM642 as well?
Hey man! Awesome vid. Are you aware of any “upper oil pan leak” in an w211 om642? Each time I stop the car it has visible drops on the ground so it’s pretty big leak. My mechanic friends told me it s the upper oil pan and they have to remove all the front underside of the car (also 4matic makes things harder). Can it actually be the oil cooler instead? Thanks!
is that really a thing?
Hi, Thanks for the video. Is it neccessary to change the oil while doing the oil cooler ? Have you ever heard about seizing this engine right away after changing those seals? Apparently some "air bag" created inside, (when oil cooler is off)i s preventing the engine from proper lubrication ( low oil pressure) and engine just stops. What's your opinion about this?
Maybe that's why MB sez to put ½ the oil in through the filter housing & the other ½ thought the filler port.
@@tonyandhelen8126 Where is this recommendation? I've never read it. Also, no one advice to replace the oil or doin' it while the engine is 'dry' - maybe that's the case...
Great Video! Loved the Music too. I wish You lived in British Columbia, Canada I would get you to do mine. Why did you delete the swirl flaps? Will something bad happen as the engine ages and as the Miles add up if you don't? Thank you for the Video!
The intakes can plug up over time from soot, and those flaps can get jammed because if it. In my opinion why the intakes are out, you're best bet is to delete the flaps completely.
thanks, wish i watched this before dismantling, i didn't remove the firewall, is was a pain in the ass to get the turbo off....
Whats the benefit of a swirl flap delete? As far as i know they introduced it for better burning of the fuel and for emissions.
hey man... steve up here in Canada... just watched your turbo rebuild Video... it sent me here. I'm gonna try to remove/disassemble the inner core without unbolting the exhaust side from the engine... THOUGHTS?... as far as I can see, as long as I can pull it straight outward an inch there shouldn't be a problem. My inlet vanes are destroyed due to pieces of the deteriorated inlet seal being sucked in ;(
PS... this is on the /08 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD
What’s your trick for removing/ replacing the cooler seals without contaminating the oil ports?
Great job on the video. How many hours do you think it would take to do the whole job? assuming nothing goes wrong..Thanks
georgeisdaman a solid weekend. From start to finish without cleaning intakes...... 12-15 hours.
@@MBDieselFreak Thats what i thought. We'll get at it w 4 hands and few power tools , see if we can squeeze it into a long day. Thanks a lot!
Couple of questions .. what gaskets did you need to replace, plus any bolts/fasteners. Additionally, I've tried the swirl flap resistor on my '07 Jeep Commander, and every now an then I have the "electronic throttle light" come on and power reduces. If I stop and cycle the key, it goes away. It seems to mainly happen when I am towing a heavy load, but for day to day driving I don't have the issue. Any advice??? I'm about to follow your video and replace the seals on the oil cooler, and may possibly do the oil cooler on my Jeep whilst I'm in there. So thought while I'm at it, I could either fit a new swirl actuator motor (and make a shield to divert any oil, or just keep the 5 cent resistor fix. I'm just worried/concerned that as the resistor does not work 100% of the time, that there is another issue. Open to ideas and thoughts.
i would advise you get a scanner to read the ECU and find out for sure whats causing that check engine light and limp mode before you go replacing parts, otherwise you're kind of flying blind HOPING you're replacing the right part. i would suggest you erase the codes first and then try and replicate the problem again to get that electronic throttle light to go on again, and then read codes.
I have just done this to my e320cdi. But now I have problem with high pressure fuel side not building pressure.
How did you get car running once it all fitted.
Hi, Great post. Doing mine now. I have deleted the swirl flaps and egr since seeing all the crud in there.
I am in the process of putting her back together. My only concern is around the steel gasket between the pillar top and turbo base. How the hell can you ensure it doesn't move where it should sit as it is rather fiddly to mount turbo back in there. any tips?
ive seen guys use some sort of gasket glue to hold it there
hi, how many hours does the whole work take?
This is a great video, I always wanted to know where the oil cooler was located. I could only see the oil leaking from it, By the way, do you know where I can buy a rebuild kit for the High Pressure Fuel pump?
If your asking about injection pump rebuild kit IDK, but I can tell you that the pumps work on very close tolerances. Even if you could/can find the kit the possibility of successfully rebuilding the pump would be slim. Look up Thoroughbred Diesel to find a rebuilt one at a decent price.
How did you get turbo heat shield off one on fire wall.also center shroud ome behind heat shield
Thanks but,
I teared down everything for now but i am at the situation where im thinkin "should i remove flaps or no", After complete whirl flaps removal can you tell me how did this engine run afterwards? any loss of power or anything like that?
Hi, what oil were you using before the oil leak? i have s 2012 GL 350 there are no oil leaks yet but i know a friend who had . i am using the original MB 5w30 oil. he said it started when he started using Mobil 1. what oil were you using before it started to have the leaks?
The oil leak is cause by cheap seals in older OM642 equipped vehicles. My 08 Jeep GC has over 155k miles and has a noticeable leak, but not enough to have to put more than a quart of oil in at about 7500 miles. I believe your vehicle is new enough that it should have the better seal. I believe the change-over happened somewhere 2010 time frame, but newer models may still possibly develop the leak, though the likelihood is greatly reduced. idpartsblog.com/2018/06/11/mercedes-oil-cooler-seal-leak-on-3-0l-v6-engines/
What year was the ml this job was done on? Is this the older style intakes without the swirl port rod sensors?
matiullah sadiq it's a 2008. Pre Bluetec
Hello
I have problem with oil in coolant container.. Do you think its may because of Oil cooler seals ? or its probably head gasket seal? Coolant in oil isnt.. and leak started few month ago, after intake manifold changed.
What do you think ?
Thanks
Dizo Diziansky check your transmission cooler at the radiator most likely is the problem
Isnt there one bolt missing right at the turbo housing bottom right corner next to the metal air line that runs direction intercooler...
At 14:54, what is the clamps that hold the connecting fuel line in place bolted with the fuel filter. These clamps are missing on my car.
Most useful, i have injectors to do that the seals are slightly chuffing on and a glow plug or 3 are down too. Any advice as this is a nearly 300k mile OM642 engine in a sprinter. I have new copper seals and bolts for the injectors. New Glow plugs, also got the tools for cleaning/refacing injector bores/seats etc.. and ceramic grease. I see many recommendations for what to dissolve the gunk around the injectors / glow plugs with too, so unsure which to go for. Also seems advice is to get the engine up to temperature before stripping the top off to do glow plugs/injectors as this will help ?
What did you say the glow plug head was as it sounded imperial , thought the engine would be metric? ta
Check out LegitStreetCars channel for a good video on pulling stuck injectors! He did it on an om648, but it's the same on an om642. Carb cleaner is the best thing going for freeing up the carbon, just make sure the engine is nice and hot when you do it, the heat reacting with the carb clean creates a bubbling action that allows the solution to penetrate.
Glow plug head is a 10mm
@@MBDieselFreak superb advice, will do thanks
Habe die Rails verbaut gelassen, auch keine Stecker gezogen, habe dafür das Thermostat weggemacht, sonst haste keine Chance die Krümmer anzusetzen. :)