How to Build Bookcases and Cabinets Quickly and Easily
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- Опубліковано 16 чер 2022
- Introducing the Freebird 3D Assembly Square
NOW AVAILABLE TO PURCHASE
www.etsy.com/uk/listing/12282...
In this tutorial video Brady and I will show you exactly how to build rigid, square and accurately lined up bookcases and other cabinets for built-in furniture projects, using our simple direct-screw assembly method. This method saves time and avoids the need for expensive jointing systems such as the Festool domino, Lamello Zeta P2 or Marvell duo doweller. We at Freebird have all those tools in our workshop in addition to a CNC machine, and we use them all for specific purposes, but we continue to also use the direct-screwing method demonstrated in this video because of its benefits of speed and economy with minimal planning and setup.
You can jump to specific sections in the video using the time-stamped links below.
0:49 - overview of our pre-assembly MDF preparation process
2:42 - Step 1: start by screwing left side of first unit down onto the back panel using pre-drilled kreg screw holes. Using pocket hole joints with an 18mm back panel allows you to do all assembly from above where your can see the front edge line ups, without needing to flip over a heavy unit and risk damaging front edges. This method makes use of the back panel as a squaring reference.
3:23 - Step 2: use the assembled side and back panel as a positioning jig for aligning all other sides ready for marking shelf heights on their front edges
4:00 - plan your drawings to show heights from bottom of unit to top of each shelf
4:30 - after using tape measure to mark heights, use a square to mark across all the front edges
4:47 - set aside the other sides for later, then using the 3D square to position the first shelf.
5:30 - we recommend the screw type clamp over the ratchet clamp if using a lipped shelf
5:51 - Freebird standard method for painted bookcases is to set the shelf 3mm back from the adjoining side
6:07 - using the 9mm referencing edge on the corner of the 3D square for marking the centre of the shelf thickness down the side of your carcase
6:34 - a hole cutout at corner of the square gives your a visual on the line up of the shelf top with your mark on the side
6:45 - using the Spax-M screws for joints in mdf with no splitting
8:04 - positioning the jig for the second shelf (22mm thickness shelf)
9:10 - bookcase internal depth of 250mm is typical for our projects
9:27 - optimum screw positioning from front and back
10:10 - spinning the 3D assembly square round to fix the top shelf
11:00 - outer carcase front edges flush as standard
12:12 - KTX cutter screws as an alternative self cutting option
15:00 - adding screws through back panel to support wide shelves
15:32 - using Confirmation screws for stronger fixings and easier dismantling and reassembly
17:08 - mark tops of shelves for easier re-assembly
17:25 - option to assemble second side with hand pressure and eye to line up with mark (shelf is already squared)
17:34 - recap of the benefits of the Freebird 3D Assembly square system.
18:10 - gallery of some of our fitted furniture projects built using this method. - Навчання та стиль
👍 you can tell you have a background in architecture due to the methodological way you put the cabinet together plus the thought that has gone into the jig.
Love watching people in business who know how to do business
Interesting comment! I’d love to know more about what you mean by that
Great to see a Freebird build video after a while. Platinum standards as ever. Cheers
Very nice comment thank you 👍
Still building for clients rather than just playing about in your workshop for youtube. Another useful video
Yeah I’m done with the Chinese laser levels!!
In terms of promotion or use? Do you still find them a good tool?
@@jvc2677 I just mean in terms of promotion - I still get regular requests but I’m too busy to make videos in return for free tools I just don’t need. In terms of quality and usability though all the ones I’ve tried have been good enough for me
Great to see you back again!!!
Thanks Sam, you are unfailing in commenting as soon as things go live!
Brilliant bit of kit. Well designed & well thought through. This will come in very handy. Just wish you thought of it & had it available a few years ago 😁.
I’m glad you think so thank you!
Great to see you two back with a great build video. Have missed them 👍
Thanks for that!
Im really enjoying your videos, I have a few projects I want to do around the house and these are perfect. I will be placing an order for the jig shortly.
Thanks for the great content.
Thanks for that feedback! You will find the assembly square very useful. We are not selling it cheap but I think everyone who has started using it has found it valuable beyond the cost
Great video, really informative, some great tips in there, good to see how you put your units together. Not that much different to how I have been doing it, but it’s always good to compare! I used my jig this week. I can’t fault it! It’s really well thought out and makes lining up and squaring units so much easier. It’ll certainly speed things up for me - not nearly as fast as Brady though! 😅Probably one of the most useful tools I’ve bought in a while!
Good work, Well done!
Hey, that's great to hear!! Glad you like it so much
This jig changed my life!
🤩
This is a great video. Thanks a lot Freebird!!
You’re welcome I appreciate your comment
Excellent video. Really well done!
Many thanks!
I ordered and received my 2mm roundover bit from Wealdens recently courtesy of a recommendation you made on a previous video. It really does make all the difference on those edges. You should be earning a commission from those guys surely!? 😂 Thanks again for another awesome video gents 👌
Same!
I do wonder how many sales they have made from my videos over the years since I’ve mentioned them a few times!!
Lovely vid Alistar 👏🏻
I’m glad you think so!
Great video, I mostly use 22mm for shelves but 18mm for the sides and top, more economical.
Thanks. We do the same for most projects
@@Alastair_Freebird Just bought the jig, I am going to be spending a good part of the summer building shelves for my most difficult customer -SWMBO.
Very nice work! Please let me know why have you used moisture resistabt MDF instead of standard MDF or ply wood ? Thank you very much !
Moisture resistant MDF is much denser than standard MDF. So it is stronger over wide spans, and also it is easier to get a good sanded finish on the edge. Also when using waterbased paint, the wood fibres will swell, and in some types of MDF this creates a lot of texture on the face which is hard to get rid of. The specific brand we recommend is Finsa 'Fibrapan Hidrofugo' because it is exceptionally smooth and dense, and the grain raising is much reduced. It allows us to get exceptionally high quality sprayed finishes. And when a high level of finish is the priority, plywood offers no benefits only problems - the surface is not as smooth. It is a lot more expensive. The edge needs lipping (extra work). Even if you sand the edge perfectly smooth, and keep doing a fine sand between coats of paint, the edge layers will always 'telegraph' (show through) over time.
Looks like a well thought out Jig, will deffo be ordering a few to do some cabinetry around the house. Brady makes tackling the drifting of the pocket screws on the side panels looks easy. I struggle with this massively as a DIYer any tips to make this easier ??
Keep up the good work 🙌🙌
Thanks… and that’s a common question! It is a mix of pressure, technique and simply experience!
Great to see your assembly method here. Like many cabinet makers, it's interesting to compare my method to yours. Remarkably similar albeit using my own squaring jig.
A couple of questions, if you have time Alistair..
Are you disassembling to spray?
Can your jig be used with different thickness material?
I'd love your recommendations for drill bits. 20 years a carpenter and still looking for a favourite brand.
Have a great weekend.
Hi Anthony thanks for watching! Yes we disassembly to spray. In the past we have also often sprayed parts first then assembled once and installed (using this drilling and screwing method with the finished parts - light pencil marks on face edges for shelf positions, easily rubbed off with a wonder wipe). Yes jig would work with any material thickness but the centre mark reference is 9mm but it’s easy enough to measure and mark down the side of the unit for screw centres into other thicknesses of shelf. Drill bits: I have been a bit of a cheapskate in the area over the years and don’t buy anything fancy!
good man yourself Alistair best squaring jig i seen yet its the architect coming out in you ha! or was it Brady's design 😜 definitely have to have a look .well done . been screwing carcass together any time i had a project like that and always felt it was a solid construction but still some how inadequate to a domino or mafell thingy bobs . there the price of a small car sitting on the bench
Glad you like it!!
Great video. The jig looks great.
What do you do when the end panels are visible? Use a different fixing method, fill and sand or add an additional panel to cover fixings?
Most often, we add an additional cover panel, which allows us to scribe to floor, wall and ceiling as necessary, and doubles up the thickness to match the look of adjoining open units. This may be attached with glue, or Lamello Tenso fixings, or screws under mounting plates if it’s fitting to the hinge side of a cupboard or wardrobe. With our fitted furniture it’s very rare that you see the end of a cabinet itself
Love your videos. Always so much useful information.
Wondering if you can give me any tips on pocket holes. I am joining 18mm MDF with 32mm Kreg screws and the MDF is always splitting. Is there something I may be doing incorrectly?
Thanks! Be careful not to overtighten. It does split easily to be honest, but this depends also on the quality of the mdf
Hi Alastair, great vid as always 👍 I use the Dewalt drill + countersink to pre-drill the holes and use good, but much cheaper screws (Wurth or Hafele) - do you reckon you save that much time using the Spax/KTX screws to justify the additional cost?
Honestly, no! I think drilling and using more standard screws makes sense!
But confirmats are optimum in my opinion
Great video, im just about to attempt a proper built in alcove cabinet with bookshelf in my home office using your blueprinted method - loving the finish of this method. Just a quickie regarding Confirmat screwsm since the Hafele site uses what seems like quite confusing standards on screws, what screw length are you using and what diameter? In this video are you using the 4mm drill hole with the 8mm head with a length of 50mm? Cheers
Hi thanks for the comment., I agree the various confirmat screw options are quite confusing! We use 'Confirmat screw size 2, Ø5 x 50mm', hafele code 264.37.196. The correct drill to use with it is hafele code 001.22.467
Another great video I have my jig now ready to start my cabinets build. Would you say butt joints like you did with the shelves are suitable to assemble the whole carcass or is the pocket hole method superior? I haven’t used pocket holes before so just worried I’d make a mistake. Thanks
However you prefer. I like the way the pocket holes screw threads into the face of the MDF instead of the edge. But the pre drilled Confirmat screw holds very well too. Using the kreg screws allows everything to be screwed together and down onto the back panel without ever turning over the unit, I like doing it that way
Very interesting, I also use a square cnc'd out of hydrofugo but it is permanently screwed together, it does help but not as nice as yours. Thanks for the tip on router bits.
A quick question, how are these shelving units joined with counter tops they are sitting on?
Thanks for commenting - we got a little metal right hand bracket at ends near walls, to screw down with a long driver bit. And pocket holes in other side panels for screwing down before joining the adjacent unit
@@Alastair_Freebird very good and smart, thanks
Just about to order the jig delighted to support you in anyway possible been following your work for a few years now love the content. I am making a set of alcove units they will have 2100mm wide by 350mm deep shelf's on them I'm concerned about sagging along the front edge do you think I could get some 20x20 box steel and screw it along underneath the legnth of the shelf for strength and then hide it behind a lip to give the illusion of a 50mm thick shelf. Or would 18mm hidrofugo be ok with a span like that without some reinforcement. Keep up the amazing work
Hi Alan, thank you! Yes in the past I have fitted steel box section behind a lip but not for a while. I'd certainly recommend using 22 or 25mm Hidrofugo instead of 18mm. And/or add that 50mm lipping too, and for me I'd probably fit a few vertical dividers in offset positions to help tie shelves together
Just received mine, very happy with the quality, out of interest what’s the maximum width shelf would you recommend for MR MDF 18mm and 25mm bookcase shelves constructed in the same method as in the video. Is there a point where you would recommend edging the front in a hardwood like oak for longer length shelving
Hi Thomas,I used to refer to the sagulator as a loose guide: woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/ but now it's more gut feeling. It helps that I screw through the 18mm back panel into the rear of the shelves. I don't usually use 18mm thick shelves beyond about 600mm wide units. Our standard is 22mm thick shelves and I'm just about ok with them up to about 1200mm but would prefer to add vertical dividers to tie shelves together beyond that
Nice wee job… I’ve recently made up some mdf units and used the 45* Router cutter for all the shelves & sides, looked great when all painted… Do you sell those squaring/angle tool..?
So everything is mitred? How did you join parts? Yes the jig is for sale here www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1228246913/
@@Alastair_Freebird
Cheers I’ll look online later for that..
Instead of penrounding the edges, I chamfered them with the 45* cutter..
(I can’t seem to send you a pic of them)
Great as usual. Not much else to add. Was it sprayed / painted before or after fitting? If before was it disassembled?
It was made only for UA-cam! (And in the hopes of selling a few jigs 😉). But if it was a real project it would have been disassembled then sprayed as component parts, each part in and out of the spray booth a few times to be denibbed (fine sanded) on the carpet-covered bench against the yellow wall. Then when dry parts would be wrapped in 1mm thick jiffy foam sheet and stacked on a cart at the far shutter ready for the fitter do collect and re assemble on site
Hi Alastair, I’ve just bought one of your jigs and I’m looking forward to using it. How did you attach the lip to the front of the shelf?
Hi thanks for buying it and I hope it works well for you. Lips could be attached with biscuits or dominos (clamping and gluing); or Lamello Zeta P2 system fixings (fancy professional option), or kreg pocket hole screws if you're not bothered by the look under the shelf
Nice job, very efficient and an excellent showing of the 3d square.
Will you ever make digital files available for those of us who own a CNC? I live in the states so shipping is rough.
Hi, so many hours have gone into refining the plans, I don't think it would be wise to give away the intellectual property on these, sorry! Also issues could come up in the machining process (small parts moving etc) that took us a while to resolve.
@@Alastair_Freebird No problem, I can respect that.
Great video. So how do I go about buying one of those MDF squares?
There is a link in the description text, this one: www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1228246913/the-freebird-3d-assembly-square. Thank you!
Great vid, will be taking a few pointers and have to say very well constructed.
Have a few questions,
I've been using 9mm for my backboards (mainly to reduce weight) then screwing from the back. Would like to try your technique but can't see it working with 9mm as need more depth for screws.
Secondly when you router the 2mm is that on all the front edges? As when the tops and sides are butted up there will be a groove.
Thanks
Hi, yes 9mm would be too thin for pocket hole screws. Yes all front edges 2mm arris round. We do usually bring the top and bottom flush to the sides, so we do a little round over on those front ends where they meet the sides, so there is a deliberate v groove
I discuss some of these finishing questions on this video I think: ua-cam.com/video/vBLTZgRWFN4/v-deo.htmlsi=IkO4sEMdlc4FDOH1
Thanks for messaging back, have taken note of what you mentioned and I’ve watched the link, this has become very helpful. Keep up the great work!!
Ash
Any tips on how to combat that sideways drift end pocket screwing? Im trying to use more pocket screws and less dowels for speed, but I’m having real trouble with the sides of the carcass moving by a couple of mm when I’m putting the pocket screws in. Glad you mentioned it in this video as I thought I was doing something wrong
You can get clamps to help. www.toolstoreuk.co.uk/kreg-khcra-int-right-angle-clamp-with-automaxx/p6751?gclid=CjwKCAjwzY2bBhB6EiwAPpUpZvh1tbs3y4Mjz2gwfH4JBV7aSX0Ckee1o3e3qmmlo1ylmab7XVTiDxoCdYAQAvD_BwE
www.axminstertools.com/ujk-technology-alignment-clamp-for-pocket-hole-jig-502710?glCountry=GB&gclid=CjwKCAjwzY2bBhB6EiwAPpUpZst9d1VnVYDEC-y443KYDOXCMsHtBTo85K1BZWnPbAjtrQsNpqH4oBoC2KUQAvD_BwE
It is also a matter of practice - you learn to offset the joint to allow for the movement, and also with appropriate pressure you can control the final position to some extent
hi Alastair, just bought your Assembly Square - looking forward to start using. Have a Q about the MDF it is made from and the MDF you use for your cabinets. What brand is it - best looking MDF I have seen. Thanks. BTW love you channel!!
Hi, I love this message thank you! The MDF is called Fibrapan Hidrofugo (which I think basically means moisture resistant mdf in Spanish) by Finsa. Yes it’s the same as we use in our spray painted work. If you go deep into my historical content you can follow a trail of breadcrumbs to us starting to use then talk about this product on UA-cam and Instagram , which led to others picking up on it, which ultimately led to a fairly significant shift in demand in our industry away from the Medite MR MDF towards this Finsa product. I first heard of it via Matt at Spacetidy who I did a podcast recording with way back, I think I then learnt that Dan McClark of McClark’s kitchens was using it for his sprayed kitchens. Matt was buying it from a supplier called Stellafoam in Essex I think. I got some samples. Did some tests and found that the grain raising on this board when using waterbased paint was WAY less even than the Medite MR which had been the one we and many others had settled on as the best option until then. I did an Instagram story raving about it, which Finsa picked up on and shared (and I think it’s now on Lawcris’ website in a grainy copy!). (I also talked about to in my video about building some weird spidery black and grey wardrobes using a different Finsa board) Finsa had a very clued up marketing consultant at that time and it coincided with them transitioning from only speaking with their distributors, to engaging much more with the small makers like us. Someone it all conspired towards the makers driving the demand at the timber yards, which led to many of them eventually agreeing to buy in packs of the stuff. Finsa kindly gifted me many thousands of pounds worth of colourful melamine faced boards which we used in constructing the partitions in our new workshop!
@@Alastair_Freebird Thankyou for a very full reply! I will check out your other videos! I love your style of instruction. Love that you also show the issues. I have been a wood worker (furniture) for 40+ years and have only recently started doing built ins - so have learned a huge mount watching your videos. My current project is a large wall of shelves and cabinets including a hidden wall bed that will be interesting as the client wants the doors to open all the way back onto the cupboards at the sides but also want soft close - I keep telling them that there are none that will open to that degree 🙂 Thanks again!! off to watch your sketchup course.
@@sawdustwoodchips You're welcome! I have previously done a murphy bed with doors that are actually just the base of the bed, and fold down with the bed - that may be easier? Can send you more info if you like.
Why do you use the Kreg pocket hole machine? By the looks of your shop you should have and old Porter Cable or a Castle. I got the Castle and worlds of difference. Very little pulling panels around that the Kreg does and pockets look better.
Hi, I have seen the castle machines and I understand what you mean! When we got the foreman I thought we might one day upgrade, but we've stuck with it
I've ordered the 3D assembly square. Hoping it might even turn up today.
Can you let me know what jig you use for the pocket holes? Also...can the Confirmat one-piece connector screw system be used for assembling wardrobe carcasses (18mm with 9mm backs) or should I use the Spax TX?
Hi sorry for such a delayed reply!! Did the square arrive and how do you find it? Yes confirmats are great for carcase work in mdf or chipboard. Spax MDF screws are great for self drilling without splitting edge grain of MDF, however you may find it just as fast to predrill then fit a cheaper screw.
@@Alastair_Freebird The square and the confirmat system worked great, thanks. I used them to build two fitted wardrobes at home (a 3 door and a 5 door). An epic job for a newbie DIYer like me but it turned out really well. On to the next project.....
@@bobbrock41 great! Have you got photos on instagram or anywhere I can take a look?
Just ordered one after seeing my workshop mate smash out a kitchen with one. What’s the square you guys used to mark down the centre line?
Hi that’s good to hear, is he making his own kitchen cabinets? That big metal square is from RS Components
Is that jig available in the US? If not would you sell the plans for it? Thank you
We can ship it to the US! www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1228246913/the-freebird-3d-assembly-square
Hi love the jig how can i go about ordering one please
Hi thanks they are on Etsy. I may also be at Maker Central with a deal price TBC www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1228246913/3d-assembly-square-original-midi-version?gpla=1&gao=1&&Cj0KCQjw8J6wBhDXARIsAPo7QA8FbP4aHbI5YtB5IUgHWBvvWrVe5d35MHv1aVOhbCf-yNGDjsubKFEaAhyFEALw_wcB_k_&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADutTMdi7jIRrXJ3UiAr3QspVclCj&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8J6wBhDXARIsAPo7QA8FbP4aHbI5YtB5IUgHWBvvWrVe5d35MHv1aVOhbCf-yNGDjsubKFEaAhyFEALw_wcB
in your experience when gluing the shelf front after painting it will the joint eventually crack the paint?
No we don't get cracks but it is very hard to avoid 'telagraphing' where tiny differences in the differently oriented adjoining faces of mdf show through, i guess its fractional shrinkage and expansion
Hi can you please explain why you pocket hole screw not simply screw on the back from directly from the back ?
Because it makes the whole assembly process easier, not having to rotate the unit during assembly. And because the pocket hole joint is strong in MDF because the thread of the screw is cutting into the face layers of the material, not driving them apart in a splitting action into the edge grain.
Thank you Alastair for replying, that now makes a lot of sense.@@Alastair_Freebird
@@trevdale7967 No problem, and you might find this article helpful: www.buymeacoffee.com/freebird/screws-mdf-3-types-use
Hi again 1 Please let me know if do you offer courses for building bookcases , cabinets, any furniture ? if so, please let me know the price, and time. Or I could come and work for you few days to learn how to build this staff ? thank you very much.
I know this is a year old now but as I move from newbie to intermediate I’m interested in comparing this to my own experiences. As I’ve grown, I’ve started to get too clever and now try to include dados and roundovers etc and maybe lose sight of what I’m trying to do. I’m interested to see that you just use screw/butt joints with no glue. Am I wasting time using glue on my own builds and should switch to a dry assembly?
Yes I think glue is unnecessary! We use to glue, but it caused more problems than it solved
Do you sell the clamping squares in America?
Yes you can order from our Etsy store, it just costs you extra postage, but it's all automated to tell you the total cost: www.etsy.com/uk/shop/FreebirdTrade
Lovely square and aligned but I always use glue. In my own house the weight of books I put on the shelves makes me think that glue is necessary. Of course a kindle thingy does not weigh as much as old fashioned books.
We used to use glue, then when a couple of jobs needed modification (or we made an error) after assembly it was such a problem that I asked myself why am I gluing as well as screwing? And I decided it wasn’t necessary
How do you think about plywood?
Birch plywood has become so expensive these days. I did use a Maple faced alternative from Garnica recently for some doors. But for most of our shelving units we are looking to achieve a high quality sprayed finish, and the dense MDF is the best substrate for this.
Hi do you use 22mm for the bookcases then not 18mm?
for the shelves yes
@@Alastair_Freebird do you use 22 on the lipped shelves also? I’m looking to add lighting on mine .. so if I lip the shelves would I need 22mm as it’s hard to get where I live
No glue?
We used to glue. Then regretted it on a couple of jobs that needed disassembling before final install! Which prompted us to question why we bothered gluing in the first place. The fixings are strong enough on their own. And now we pre-spray components before final assembly for the flattest finish on each part, we wouldn't want any glue squeeze out.
Nice...
Two questions - what profile is that that takes the rail clamps? And where did you get that large square from?
Cheers
Hi, the profile around the edge of the workbench is the ‘Bosch rexroth aluminium strut 30x30mm’ uk.rs-online.com/web/p/tubing-and-profile-struts/3899796
And the square is this one, also from RS Components uk.rs-online.com/web/p/engineers-squares/3048471
2:10 Imperial measurements always look better.
Not to me 😄
@@Alastair_Freebird Next time you see a house with modern Legoland metric bricks side by side with a house built of old Imperial 9"x4"x3" bricks which looks nicer? And window sizes in feet always look better, 6'x4', 6'x3', 4'x3' etc, they always look better, put any Barrett Homes metric house alongside any Georgian/Victorian, Edwardian house, which looks better?
I do hand built kitchens in imperial, I only use metric for factory made kitchens.
@@whitevanman8703 this is a very fascinating comment to me. I see what you are saying now. I thought at first you just liked the look of the fractious written down! But now you’ve got me thinking that because the imperial system originally related to measurements of the human body, whereas the metric system is more clinical and logical, perhaps we intuitively relate to imperial better.
@@Alastair_Freebird Thank you, that is what I was trying to say. There is a Leonardo de Vinci drawing which has a man outstretched with a circle drawn around which relates to the issue of proportions. I have done a lot of alcove cupboards each side of chimney breasts nearly all of them in period properties, first one in 1985. Shelf spacing of 10/11" with 11/12" sides and top seem to look better, especially when you turn around and look at the period sash windows. A panelled door with the rails and styles in imperial look better.
And at the end of the day I hate being told what measure to use by the bastards in Brussels, I prefer to use the system relevant to the job and my or my customer's taste.