So I am to assume you put another vacuum cap on the tube you removed from throttle body? I can only think its used to create vacuum for the smaller smog to collect?
If you pause the video when he shows the package of the 7/32 hose. Its from Prestone and its windshield wiper hose. You can find it on Amazon along with the vacuum plugs. I have a 2018 KLX250 and did all the stage one mods on mine Im now just getting ready to install the EJK and IMS tank.
@@DN4AGDX Thanks, I went with 3/16" fuel rated hose, as I read that vacuum hose will deteriorate when exposed to fuel. The hose I used was a near identical match to what was originally on the bike connecting the canisters to the tank.
Appreciate it! It's 37 ft lbs. I think it was in this install, I over torqued one of them (due to an out of spec torque wrench). So, I got new bolts and added a locking washer to the side with the nut
If I remember correctly, the sensor is held in by a clip. I am pretty sure you just push down with your thumb on the female side (this side should have the clip), and pull out the sensor.
They should mate up as I ran an FMF with the stock header. So, an FMF header should work with the stock pipe. I will say, that you will see more gains from the muffler over the header, if only changing one or the other.
It allows the motor to run a bit more efficiently. You don't get all the deceleration pops from the air injection system. It also lower cylinder head temps a bit as a result.
So the MCM should be relatively easy, except for the ACR reposition, which requires a press and some know-how, but that with the add-on mods you've got, you'll be somewhere close to as much power as you're going to get out of that motor until you're ready for a big bore. If you're going to keep the stock displacement for awhile, MCM is absolutely worthwhile, unless you're doing the big bore or cams, (or both,) soon. If that's your plan, just wait and don't bother with MCM. Totally up to your budget and timeline. I saw you're on the boards, so you can find the original write up on MCM either through the kawi board, (where it was first posted,) or a link to it somewhere on either thumpertalk or advboard easily enough. You will find different opinions on it and whether to do it at all, partially or fully and I've figured out that has a lot to do with what else is done, what the person's expectations are, their mechanical aptitude and most importantly, what they're using their bike for. With your current mods and how you seem to be leaning for use, my opinion is, do the full MCM and just make sure you do it exactly as described by Marcelino. I think you'll be happy with it, but again, if you're going to do a big bore soon, than just enjoy what you got the way it is now which is miles better than where it was two weeks ago. MCM does not work for a big bore! Only a stock 249cc displacement klx! It gives a huge boost with no or few other mods. From your current state, it's a little less an increase by the numbers overall, but it'll move that torque curve down to the low and mid end where an offroader/stunter needs it without compromising top end. Read up before you take mine or anyone elses advice, but this is my opinion for your situation.
I don't think I'll be doing the big bore for a while. I did a lot of research on the MCM and read up on it. The only reason why I didn't crack into it and do the MCM during these few build videos is because of the Ninja I had 😂. It jumped timing and it was a pita to get it back. I guess it was a little harder because the bike had close to 50k miles and the timing chain was streched. The MCM seems pretty straightforward but I wouldn't want to jack up the timing. I also considered the option of doing the stage 1 cams, but from what I read it would be the same as the MCM. So, why spend the extra coin for the cams. With all that being said, I definitely want to do the MCM. I'll see how the KLX does when I put the 13T on it, and I'll continue to do some research on how the MCM would work with the EJK. So far, I have only seen one person do the MCM with the EJK on the forums.
I completely understand that point of view from your experience with the Ninja. That would be frustrating if you're not an experienced wrench. If you decide it's not worth it to you, you can be confident in the things you've done, especially if you're going to change the gearing a little. It's a solid stage 1 you've put together. We'll have to see if we can find a good reputable shop up there if you decide you do want to do MCM, but don't feel confident, (and your Kawi shop probably isn't going to touch it for their corporate liability obligations.) I don't live anywhere near you or I'd come help you myself. In the meantime, what you have is so much better than bone stock, you're going to have stupid grin syndrome for a good while, and I can't find any fault in that. All the mods in the world are useless without continuing to improve the nut behind the handlebars. (That would be you.) Looking forward to a few good ride videos with the new beast mode klx. See you then.
Wanted to update you on my smog eliminator. Just put it on and for some reason they quit putting the canister coming from the tank on the 2019. My two hoses, were already ran from the tank to the bottom of the bike. I can tell a huge difference in the pop noise...very satisfied.
One of my friends got a KLX250 and it did not have the smog stuff either. I'm not sure if it has something to do with it not being a California model, or if they somehow ditched it.
@@jhmotorclub6916 I think maybe they ditched it cause it was restricting them motor too much making it not competitive with ther other 250s in the class.
@@MrCheck30 It has nothing to do with performance. It restricts the fuel vapours created in your fuel tank from escaping into the atmosphere by trapping them in a charcoal canister. Only benefit of removing it - slight weight savings
It is part of the smog system. I don't remember exactly if the overflow drain goes to the canister from the fuel tank or if the fuel tank vent goes to the canister. So, it is there to make sure those things don't get into the environment I guess
Congrats on the new bike! Here is the link to them: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GTKAHQ/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=revzoot-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B002GTKAHQ&linkId=c9280dce4ec36462e168951a9fe41580
You're the man! Loving your channel after purchasing 2018 klx 250. Really informative and you respond quick, thanks brother if your ever up in Vermont the riding is incredible!
So I am to assume you put another vacuum cap on the tube you removed from throttle body? I can only think its used to create vacuum for the smaller smog to collect?
7/32" fuel line seems to be tricky to find, do you have a link?
If you pause the video when he shows the package of the 7/32 hose. Its from Prestone and its windshield wiper hose. You can find it on Amazon along with the vacuum plugs. I have a 2018 KLX250 and did all the stage one mods on mine Im now just getting ready to install the EJK and IMS tank.
@@DN4AGDX Thanks, I went with 3/16" fuel rated hose, as I read that vacuum hose will deteriorate when exposed to fuel. The hose I used was a near identical match to what was originally on the bike connecting the canisters to the tank.
I ordered the Smart Moto pair valve eliminator kit and the included sensor did fit. Maybe they saw your video and updated the kit? Thanks!
That is interesting. I suppose my video could have reached them. That's great that you can get all the parts from one place now!
How important is it to add that piece?? I just added the new plate for the block off and the gasket… thanks
Thanks for the helpful video, great job. What are the engine bolt torque values? Thanks
Appreciate it! It's 37 ft lbs. I think it was in this install, I over torqued one of them (due to an out of spec torque wrench). So, I got new bolts and added a locking washer to the side with the nut
@@jhmotorclub6916 Thanks for the info and the quick reply. Keep up the good work!
I have a KLX 250 with the EJK kit. I can’t figure out how to remove the o2 sensor under the seat. Any guidance?
If I remember correctly, the sensor is held in by a clip. I am pretty sure you just push down with your thumb on the female side (this side should have the clip), and pull out the sensor.
JH Motor Club thanks, that worked. Big improvement with the EJK and snorkel removed.
Any idea of the stock pipe will fit on the megabomb or powerbomb header?? On a budget...but learning a lot from your videos!
They should mate up as I ran an FMF with the stock header. So, an FMF header should work with the stock pipe. I will say, that you will see more gains from the muffler over the header, if only changing one or the other.
@@jhmotorclub6916 Thanks!! I appreciate the info
Why is it so hard for me to find the ejk for sale any have the link? I have a 2020klx250
Did desmogging the bike make any noticeable differences?
It allows the motor to run a bit more efficiently. You don't get all the deceleration pops from the air injection system. It also lower cylinder head temps a bit as a result.
So the MCM should be relatively easy, except for the ACR reposition, which requires a press and some know-how, but that with the add-on mods you've got, you'll be somewhere close to as much power as you're going to get out of that motor until you're ready for a big bore. If you're going to keep the stock displacement for awhile, MCM is absolutely worthwhile, unless you're doing the big bore or cams, (or both,) soon. If that's your plan, just wait and don't bother with MCM. Totally up to your budget and timeline. I saw you're on the boards, so you can find the original write up on MCM either through the kawi board, (where it was first posted,) or a link to it somewhere on either thumpertalk or advboard easily enough. You will find different opinions on it and whether to do it at all, partially or fully and I've figured out that has a lot to do with what else is done, what the person's expectations are, their mechanical aptitude and most importantly, what they're using their bike for. With your current mods and how you seem to be leaning for use, my opinion is, do the full MCM and just make sure you do it exactly as described by Marcelino. I think you'll be happy with it, but again, if you're going to do a big bore soon, than just enjoy what you got the way it is now which is miles better than where it was two weeks ago.
MCM does not work for a big bore! Only a stock 249cc displacement klx! It gives a huge boost with no or few other mods. From your current state, it's a little less an increase by the numbers overall, but it'll move that torque curve down to the low and mid end where an offroader/stunter needs it without compromising top end. Read up before you take mine or anyone elses advice, but this is my opinion for your situation.
I don't think I'll be doing the big bore for a while. I did a lot of research on the MCM and read up on it. The only reason why I didn't crack into it and do the MCM during these few build videos is because of the Ninja I had 😂. It jumped timing and it was a pita to get it back. I guess it was a little harder because the bike had close to 50k miles and the timing chain was streched. The MCM seems pretty straightforward but I wouldn't want to jack up the timing. I also considered the option of doing the stage 1 cams, but from what I read it would be the same as the MCM. So, why spend the extra coin for the cams. With all that being said, I definitely want to do the MCM. I'll see how the KLX does when I put the 13T on it, and I'll continue to do some research on how the MCM would work with the EJK. So far, I have only seen one person do the MCM with the EJK on the forums.
I completely understand that point of view from your experience with the Ninja. That would be frustrating if you're not an experienced wrench. If you decide it's not worth it to you, you can be confident in the things you've done, especially if you're going to change the gearing a little. It's a solid stage 1 you've put together. We'll have to see if we can find a good reputable shop up there if you decide you do want to do MCM, but don't feel confident, (and your Kawi shop probably isn't going to touch it for their corporate liability obligations.) I don't live anywhere near you or I'd come help you myself. In the meantime, what you have is so much better than bone stock, you're going to have stupid grin syndrome for a good while, and I can't find any fault in that. All the mods in the world are useless without continuing to improve the nut behind the handlebars. (That would be you.) Looking forward to a few good ride videos with the new beast mode klx. See you then.
Wanted to update you on my smog eliminator. Just put it on and for some reason they quit putting the canister coming from the tank on the 2019. My two hoses, were already ran from the tank to the bottom of the bike. I can tell a huge difference in the pop noise...very satisfied.
That's great! Maybe Kawi was trying to trick the system lol, the bike is a lot smoother without some of those pops
Watching another one of your vids man. My 2020 doesnt have the smog kit it seems. I dont have the Canister you're describing at 9:36
One of my friends got a KLX250 and it did not have the smog stuff either. I'm not sure if it has something to do with it not being a California model, or if they somehow ditched it.
@@jhmotorclub6916 I think maybe they ditched it cause it was restricting them motor too much making it not competitive with ther other 250s in the class.
@@jhmotorclub6916 only CA models have it
@@MrCheck30 It has nothing to do with performance. It restricts the fuel vapours created in your fuel tank from escaping into the atmosphere by trapping them in a charcoal canister. Only benefit of removing it - slight weight savings
What is the canister there for??
It is part of the smog system. I don't remember exactly if the overflow drain goes to the canister from the fuel tank or if the fuel tank vent goes to the canister. So, it is there to make sure those things don't get into the environment I guess
Hey I'm picking a klx 250 up this week and was wondering were you got the mirrors at to replace stock ones
Congrats on the new bike! Here is the link to them:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GTKAHQ/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=revzoot-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B002GTKAHQ&linkId=c9280dce4ec36462e168951a9fe41580
Is this necessary?
It is not completely necessary. It does help cool down the cylinder head temperatures a bit and eliminate some deceleration popping
You're the man! Loving your channel after purchasing 2018 klx 250. Really informative and you respond quick, thanks brother if your ever up in Vermont the riding is incredible!
Thank you very much, hopefully I'll be out there and many other places to ride sometime!
What does this mod do?
It helps the bike run a little more efficiently. It eliminates a lot of the overrev popping which can help lower cylinder head and header temperatures
JH Motor Club hell ya