Stopped Dados on the Miter Saw // Woodworking Jig
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- Опубліковано 20 лют 2021
- #woodworking #tools #joinery
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In this week’s video, I’ll show you how I make stopped dados, using my sliding compound miter saw and a simple jig. This is a follow up to my video on how to make perfect dados on your miter saw. There are many cases where you may need to use stopped dados in your projects. The traditional way is to attempt a plunge cut on the table saw, however, I find the miter saw method much easier.
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This method may seem odd and unconventional but it does work, and it does produce consistent stopped dados. Best of all, it won't damage your miter saw. Clamping anything to the guide rails will not work. I've tried...Even if you use a rubber gasket and clamp it tight, it will slip on subsequent cuts and your dados will be out of alignment. You also risk damaging your guide rails if you try to attach anything to them - so I don't recommend it unless you enjoy trashing your tools.
I was literally doing this **last night** on a new project. Thanks for posting.
Cool idea.
The freebie tip for the engineers is too precious!
I see i am not the only person who uses old-timey wooden.clamps as workholders (I didn't think I was). They are especially handy on my viseless workbench. pick the right size clamp, position it where you want, whack a holdfast on one side, and you are all set. they hold very firmly. I use them for all sorts of work holding, including clamping stock vertically at the edge of the bench to cut dovetails and tenons. and to chop mortises. Lots cheaper than a $200+ vise.
I love Jorgensen screw clamps. I've used them since I was a kid.
Nice idea, interfere with the travel of the saw, which is really what the depth screw and flipper thingie does in a vertical direction. I like it. Also, it may be the angle, but it looks like clamping a tall stop block to the fence at that spot would also work? And another way I discovered by accident was to push the rolling shop cabinet mine's mounted on too close to the wall, so that the guide rails hit the wall before they finished their travel, although I never thought about using this effect to make a stopped cut. I like your thinking outside the box. I had used the sliding miter saw for dadoes, now I'll have a safe way to do stopped dadoes next time I need them!
Thanks Bill! Yes, there is no doubt a few ways to make this work. On my miter saw, clamping a block at that spot wouldn't work because of there isn't enough surface on the backside to hang on to. So that's when I thought of using the clamp post that came with the saw. I'll probably drill a hole in a new block with the proper diameter to make it a little nicer. Cheers🙂
Hi you're amazing 👏
Nicely done Eric! There are many ways of doing that. If those guide rails are steel, I would fit a piece of wood between the rails and use a Mag switch embedded into the wood over each rail. That way you could easily move the piece forward & backward to cut any length of dado. Just a thought......
Thanks Steve. You could try that but I'm pretty sure it would still nudge the block on subsequent cuts. I think the only way to use the rails would be if the manufacturers started putting some kind of a track system on one of the rails so you can install a locking collar to it. Let's see which one does it first... Maybe Festool? Dewalt?🙂
Steve, one idea that comes to mind for a guide rail approach, would be to get a length of PVC, where the inside diameter is slightly bigger than the outside diameter of the guide rails, cut a couple of appropriately-long pieces, depending on where you want the saw to stop. Remove a lengthwise chunk of the pipe that's slightly smaller than the guide rails, so that it can be pushed on and clicked on to the rails. This PVC spacer should do the same thing as Eric's block on the saw's post, by preventing the saw from sliding too far forward.
Use hose clamps on the rods as stops like what you do a lot keep teaching us new safe ways
Thanks Darell! I tried that before on my older miter saw. It doesn't work. The clamps slip and your dados will be out of alignment. It also damages the rails.
I have had my issues with daddos but I'm comfortable using the daddo set on table saw however Ill give your way a shot next time.
Stopped dados on the table saw are a different story. The difference is you'll need to plunge cut onto the blade.
Why not just use a hose clamp on the guide rail?
Attaching anything to the guide rail won't work. It might be oaky on your first cut but it will slip down the guide rail in subsequent cuts, no matter how hard you tighten or clamp to it. You also risk damaging your guide rails by clamping to it.
You know... Maybe you could make some stop collars(?) with a piece of PVC pipe, a hinge, some screws and nuts... And a bit of 5 minute epoxy. 🤔
The difficult part is the screw that would hold it in place... Because I don't think threads on PVC would hold very well. 🤔
Anyway, I'm going to think about something and get back to you. 😊
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Actually, with metal pipe it would be perfect. But then you would need to solder. 🤔
It won't work. I've tried that. I don't recommend attaching anything to the guide rails. I know my method seems odd but it works like a hot damn. And it won't damage your miter saw.
Hey, fantastic idea, I was just thinking that a piece of pvc pipe cut to the length you need and then cut along the length, should just clip on, of course pc close to diameter of saw slide
You could try that, but on my miter saw the slide action on the rails is a lot of force. You might crack or break the PVC after a few passes. But if you have the PVC laying around, you can give it a try. At least it won't break the saw rails.
I like how you trimmed the wood to fit. First way I thought of was to get my trim router out and mark the remaining that the miter saw did not get. What do you think of that method?
Yes, you could try that but you need to be careful not to widen the dado in the process.
@@EricSorensenCanada oh yeah and still would have to chisel the corners. 👍
Thank you. Do you suppose someone could put a router on a sliding miter saw (removing miter saw of course first, then fixing up some sort of bracket to hold safetly a trim router), or is this way to out of the ball park?
Just use a fence and a stop block with your router.
Can you please make recommendations on what to look for and avoid in a drill press.. I'm ready to finally buy one but I want to avoid pitfalls,, some seem reasonably priced but it's no use if they're going to make for inaccurate drilling... Thanks
Like any tool, you get what you pay for. Mine is a cheap drill press. I don't think I paid more than $200 for it. I've had it for 10 years and it does everything I need it to do but the motor is gutless. That said, I'm glad I have it because I do make a lot of parts that require accurate holes. Depending on your budget, bench top versions start at around $110. On the cheap end, Porter cable looks good. If you can afford it, buy a floor standing model, so you can work with larger parts (table legs). They start at around $600 and go up from there. If you're in the US, Harbour Freight has the General machinery brand. I don't know how good they are but the prices are reasonable.
@@EricSorensenCanada thanks a lot!... The reasonable prices on some of them actually made me leary! 🤣
It's best to go look at them in person if you can. I judge a tool by its fit and finish. If there's a floor model, try some of the moving parts. It can give you a good idea of how it will hold up. Also, I would compare the horsepower on the motors.