Your brother got himself a great example. I just sent my touring off to have the engine swapped again. Looking forward to it next week. Spectoberfest at Sebring baby!!!!
My first car was/is a 98 528i. So far, I've had to make some minor repairs and maintenance as the previous owner left some neglected areas but otherwise it has been treating me pretty well! Has aftermarket angel eye headlamps and taillights which look really gorgeous. A lot of people like to hate on older Bimmers due to the pricey repairs. Yes the repairs are pricey but the feeling of driving a BMW and the status symbol are PRICELESS!
I had the same car I would recommend changing the CCV and PCV Valves since their plastic they will fail and leak on the side of the oil pan and you might mistake it for a oil pan leak . Check all the rubber lines and replace that will be the main source of lean codes
@CoolinKofi - Thanks! I'll definitely consider replacing those soon. I have replaced spark plugs and coils, oxygen sensors, camshaft position sensors, and transmission sensor so far. Sensors seem to be the main parts that have gone wrong in this car as of now *knock on wood*
Great little cars, very cool that you and your son both have one! I also had an 87 325is in delphin, check out my e30 video playlist for some clips of that one
Hey just wanted to say if your buddy wants to clean up the shifter feel with bushings I have a few tips, although I'm sure you could figure it out as you're way more technically inclined than me but anyway if he's not used to cars, this would probably be good to know so he doesn't have the same issues I do. 1. You HAVE to upgrade the rear shifter carrier arm bushing. I replaced mine with OEM at first, bought an entire new rear carrier bracket w/bushing. Stock bushing is so floppy it's hilarious. Don't waste your money, just take the bushing/metal support piece off (one bolt, easy to get) hit it with a blowtorch till there is no shitty rubber left, and install your garagistic piece. I ended up with a garagistic delrin rear carrier bushing. If you run delrin apparently there can be issues with the transmission moving while driving, but since the delrin stops the carrier from moving with the trans it can pop you out of gear. I put stiffer E21 trans mounts as well as machined aluminum cups (also from garagistic) to keep the trans solid, as well as running a rubber front carrier bushing and it hasn't been an issue for me. However they also sell a poly rear carrier bushing (it's transparent blue, look on their site) which I also bought but I mildly fucked up the install and ended up swapping out. When it was in it still felt super solid though and probably would be fine. What they don't tell you on the site is that to get it on you need to take the carrier arm out of the car and fucking HAMMER the new carrier bushing onto the arm. Delrin or poly, they are both a bitch. If you are going this route, you probably have to take the carrier fully off (ie detach the front carrier bushing which is true suffering. I'm an idiot when it comes to cars but that is the most annoying tedious thing I have ever done. If possible you should avoid that, but I'll explain further) Also filing down the protrusions on the end of the carrier helps a lot and is an absolute must if going with delrin, but I'd do it with poly as well. I tried to install the poly as if it was OEM, with no filing and with carrier still attached, hanging under the car. This required a shit load of wiggling, causing me widen the hole in the bushing by messing with it so much, which is why I ended up replacing with the delrin one I had. Also there isn't really a good way to make sure either of these bushings stay in place in the metal rear carrier mount. Poly sort of will because its more rubbery, delrin falls out. Either way, I'd epoxy the shit out of it to make sure it never fails, and get it as tight as you can with a press/vice or whatever. 2. You also need to replace your front carrier bushings depending on the car. On my car I installed the upgraded rear, and it felt more solid, but shifter was wiggling all over the place still because the front carrier bushing was dead. This front bushing is held in by the most awful clip of all time PN# 25111221849-M9 if you want to take a look at it, definitely get a replacement if youre doing this job because you're going to deform this motherfucker while doing the job or if not that, out of PURE RAGE after removing it. People say its easy. People say you can use a flathead screwdriver. Those people are either lying or have alien hands. I bought a set of pick/hook tools, like a thin screwdriver but the end is like a fishhook. Even with that it was hellish. You need to lay under the car, and pull part of this clip UP, and then once that is up, you need to pull it across/out. Its really hard to do. It is on top of the transmission, in a spot you can't see, where there is maybe 2" of vertical play for your hands to be/all the work to be done. Again, you pretty much can't see anything you're doing. If you could remove the trans crossmember/support bar or whatever its called, and lower the trans a bit on a jack (good time to upgrade bushings) it would probably make this a million times easier. Anyway, when you get the carrier off the car, you need to replace the front bushings. Garagistic also sells delrin front carrier arm bushings. The only issue is, once you install them in the carrier with a press/vice/hammer or whatever, the carrier is now too wide to fit into where it goes on the trans. So I pulled mine out and made sure it was pressed as tight as possible, and filed the sides of the delrin bushings down a bit. Now it fit but was still super tight. Install it, go to install the bitch clip and WOW: the bitch clip will only go half way through the delrin bushings before it gets stuck. You have no leverage to push it through. I pulled the whole thing out and the only way I could get it through was to have the carrier arm on a bench and then hammer the clip in. Impossible to do with 2 and a half fingers in a spot you can't see. So from here you can either like, file down the rod that is part of the bitch clip, or widen the inside of the delrin bushings. But that is dumb, and you are just a guy with a file and you'll fuck it up. The whole point is its a perfectly tight, accurate, better than OEM part. These parts are just designed wrong and not worth it. So please, DO NOT BUY the delrin or aluminum FRONT carrier arm bushings from garagistic. They suck ass. Oh also after all of that they will be impossible to get out of the carrier arm without destroying it so don't even try to use these. They are awful. What I ended up doing was this, bought a standard, rubber front carrier bushing, installed it in the carrier arm, and then, when I put it on the trans, I bought some washers that were the correct size to go on either side of the bushing. It's pretty annoying to deal with installing these, and I was only able to get one of them on, but that was good enough. With just the stock carrier bushing you can tell there's side-to-side play even while under the car, but with even the one washer it's basically perfect. If you could get one on either side that would be better but for me I just said fuck it. Buy a few thicknesses and try to get it as tight as possible. I went to the store with the bushing and clip to check fitment. 3. Getting a DSSR(dual-shear selector rod) is a great idea. I have the garagistic one and it is really nice. UUC also sells one, and for a bit there was even a guy on r3vlimited selling his own homemade version, probably the best value if he is still around. If you don't know what these are just look them up, pretty self explanatory, makes shifts feel really excellent. 4. Minor thing but: keep in mind when you replace the main shifter "cup" bushing that the pivot point of the shifter sits in, you have to spin it a certain way to get it to come out. Once you spin it to the right point it will be easy, but if you don't know to do that you'll be annoyed like I was. Also you need to have some grease on hand for it but that is covered in all of the shifter rebuild guides, I'm just trying to let you know about the little finicky things. So I'd recommend (just because it was the easiest for me) either a poly rear carrier bushing, if you don't feel like upgrading your trans mounts, or if you do feel like upgrading, a delrin one. You could try upgrading the rear carrier+shifter cup and seeing if that reduces play enough, maybe you are super lucky and have a mint front carrier bushing and a clapped out rear, and you don't have to deal with the front bushing bullshit. Also something to consider, if you put the rubber OEM front carrier bushing+washer like I did, just that rubber may be enough to allow movement with the trans. I have no idea but if you are feeling brave AND lazy, don't want to do the trans mounts, try a delrin rear+rubber front. It might be fine. But probably the easiest way to do this completely is lower the trans, replace front+rear carrier, and since the crossmember is already off, just do the bushings and put in a delrin rear. And if it's between getting that Z3 shifter and a DSSR (they are kinda pricey) I'd say get the DSSR and try it with your current aftermarket shifter. I think with all these mods it will feel amazing, and your money is better spent on the DSSR since you already have a shortened shift throw (although it did look SUPER aggressive in the vid). Maybe after that get the Z3 shifter, but even if you go that route you'll want the upgraded selector rod anyway. I think you should just see what it's like with the crazy shifter without all the bushings being fucked and with a super solid selector rod. One more thing (sorry for this novel) at least in my car ('87 325is) when I put my shifter in (E36 M3) because of the lower connection point on the shifter it made it so the selector rod rubbed against the metal "vibration dampener" thing around the guibo on the driveshaft. I ended up disconnecting my driveshaft and getting rid of that part, and I haven't noticed any issues with vibration, but just wanted to say if it just barely fits with the stock selector rod/short shifter, a standard DSSR will definitely make contact. I think some people (definitely that dude on r3v) said that they can make a bent DSSR to ensure it will clear the vibration dampener. Anyway with the current crazy shifter that is on the car it would for sure be a problem with the DSSR if it is close now. But just keep that in mind and maybe check the clearance beforehand so you can be sure the new selector rod will fit, or delete the dampener piece. If you have it then ideally a bent DSSR so you don't have to drop the driveshaft/throw away the dampener would be the easiest if your car has one. Anyway that's all I got, hope this is easier for you than for me. I'm a big noob with cars and probably anyone with a lick of knowledge will kind of shake their head at my mistakes, but if this is a first car for a 17 year old I wouldn't be surprised if they ran into a few of the same issues as me. Good luck and congrats to your boy on the nice car, post more vids of it if you have the time, want to see how it progresses!
Hey thanks a lot dude, I essentially learned how to work on cars with my E30, it was also my first car (that I bought at least) and most of the jobs I've done so far like timing belt, cam seal, water pump, brakes, new stereo, header gaskets, even single fuel pump conversion; have been relatively simple and easy enough for me to figure out with minimal effort or just some help from friends/people with more experience. But fucking around with these seemingly simple set of a few shifter bushings OH BOY did I get annoyed hahah. Way harder than it looks in the guides when you're lying on your back on pavement working on something that you can't see. Oh and one more thing that I forgot to add. When I did mine I knew I had to delete that metal dampener around the guibo, so I did the bushing job with the driveshaft off (did rear trans seal at the same time) and even then when I had a clear view of the end of the trans but not the top, it was a big pain, but definitely easier than working around the driveshaft/guibo. So yeah if you are going to delete that piece do it first and do the rest of the work with the driveshaft off. Have a good one man!
CoolinKofi hey man, I was actually just visiting my family there. They haven’t really been able to find an honest or reasonable shop yet but will update you
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Nice 2.7 ?
yep
Man I wish I had an older brother like you! hope he loves it.
thanks bro
Best car BMW has ever made. When I get out of my e30 and jump back in my e90 it feels super vague and numb.
Eric Dawson the e46 zhp and m3 feel good too. I drove an e90 and it felt like total junk!
I love E30's! My dream restoration project would be a black E30 cabriolet. Maybe one day when I've an empty nest 😂
Е30 очень хорошо выглядит! Очень нравится. И улицы у вас просто мечта! все зелёные много деревьев и травы , мечта.
Your brother got himself a great example. I just sent my touring off to have the engine swapped again. Looking forward to it next week. Spectoberfest at Sebring baby!!!!
Perfect condition absolutely stock is best! Even the front spoiler is intact 👍🏻
My sons first car (at 17, now 19) was a 1991 318is e30. Great car!
a E30 with a 325E is my dreamcar,, I love the torque and the amazing sound, and it have a acceptably fuel consumption
they are great cars, my first time driving an "E" actually and the torque is a lot of fun
My first car was/is a 98 528i. So far, I've had to make some minor repairs and maintenance as the previous owner left some neglected areas but otherwise it has been treating me pretty well! Has aftermarket angel eye headlamps and taillights which look really gorgeous. A lot of people like to hate on older Bimmers due to the pricey repairs. Yes the repairs are pricey but the feeling of driving a BMW and the status symbol are PRICELESS!
I had the same car I would recommend changing the CCV and PCV Valves since their plastic they will fail and leak on the side of the oil pan and you might mistake it for a oil pan leak . Check all the rubber lines and replace that will be the main source of lean codes
@CoolinKofi - Thanks! I'll definitely consider replacing those soon. I have replaced spark plugs and coils, oxygen sensors, camshaft position sensors, and transmission sensor so far. Sensors seem to be the main parts that have gone wrong in this car as of now *knock on wood*
That was my 2nd E30, in Bronzit. First was a 88is Alpine White. My son's first is going to be my E36.....
Very nice! I have a 325 87is zinno. Lowered, 272 cam and is fun! My son has a 87 325is delphin.
Great little cars, very cool that you and your son both have one! I also had an 87 325is in delphin, check out my e30 video playlist for some clips of that one
sounds awesome, nice review of your brother E30. You bought another E39?
Leon L thanks Leon, this is a really fun little car! Yes I bought a 2002 530i sport out here
Hey just wanted to say if your buddy wants to clean up the shifter feel with bushings I have a few tips, although I'm sure you could figure it out as you're way more technically inclined than me but anyway if he's not used to cars, this would probably be good to know so he doesn't have the same issues I do.
1. You HAVE to upgrade the rear shifter carrier arm bushing. I replaced mine with OEM at first, bought an entire new rear carrier bracket w/bushing. Stock bushing is so floppy it's hilarious. Don't waste your money, just take the bushing/metal support piece off (one bolt, easy to get) hit it with a blowtorch till there is no shitty rubber left, and install your garagistic piece. I ended up with a garagistic delrin rear carrier bushing. If you run delrin apparently there can be issues with the transmission moving while driving, but since the delrin stops the carrier from moving with the trans it can pop you out of gear. I put stiffer E21 trans mounts as well as machined aluminum cups (also from garagistic) to keep the trans solid, as well as running a rubber front carrier bushing and it hasn't been an issue for me. However they also sell a poly rear carrier bushing (it's transparent blue, look on their site) which I also bought but I mildly fucked up the install and ended up swapping out. When it was in it still felt super solid though and probably would be fine. What they don't tell you on the site is that to get it on you need to take the carrier arm out of the car and fucking HAMMER the new carrier bushing onto the arm. Delrin or poly, they are both a bitch. If you are going this route, you probably have to take the carrier fully off (ie detach the front carrier bushing which is true suffering. I'm an idiot when it comes to cars but that is the most annoying tedious thing I have ever done. If possible you should avoid that, but I'll explain further) Also filing down the protrusions on the end of the carrier helps a lot and is an absolute must if going with delrin, but I'd do it with poly as well. I tried to install the poly as if it was OEM, with no filing and with carrier still attached, hanging under the car. This required a shit load of wiggling, causing me widen the hole in the bushing by messing with it so much, which is why I ended up replacing with the delrin one I had. Also there isn't really a good way to make sure either of these bushings stay in place in the metal rear carrier mount. Poly sort of will because its more rubbery, delrin falls out. Either way, I'd epoxy the shit out of it to make sure it never fails, and get it as tight as you can with a press/vice or whatever.
2. You also need to replace your front carrier bushings depending on the car. On my car I installed the upgraded rear, and it felt more solid, but shifter was wiggling all over the place still because the front carrier bushing was dead. This front bushing is held in by the most awful clip of all time PN# 25111221849-M9 if you want to take a look at it, definitely get a replacement if youre doing this job because you're going to deform this motherfucker while doing the job or if not that, out of PURE RAGE after removing it. People say its easy. People say you can use a flathead screwdriver. Those people are either lying or have alien hands. I bought a set of pick/hook tools, like a thin screwdriver but the end is like a fishhook. Even with that it was hellish. You need to lay under the car, and pull part of this clip UP, and then once that is up, you need to pull it across/out. Its really hard to do. It is on top of the transmission, in a spot you can't see, where there is maybe 2" of vertical play for your hands to be/all the work to be done. Again, you pretty much can't see anything you're doing. If you could remove the trans crossmember/support bar or whatever its called, and lower the trans a bit on a jack (good time to upgrade bushings) it would probably make this a million times easier.
Anyway, when you get the carrier off the car, you need to replace the front bushings. Garagistic also sells delrin front carrier arm bushings. The only issue is, once you install them in the carrier with a press/vice/hammer or whatever, the carrier is now too wide to fit into where it goes on the trans. So I pulled mine out and made sure it was pressed as tight as possible, and filed the sides of the delrin bushings down a bit. Now it fit but was still super tight. Install it, go to install the bitch clip and WOW: the bitch clip will only go half way through the delrin bushings before it gets stuck. You have no leverage to push it through. I pulled the whole thing out and the only way I could get it through was to have the carrier arm on a bench and then hammer the clip in. Impossible to do with 2 and a half fingers in a spot you can't see. So from here you can either like, file down the rod that is part of the bitch clip, or widen the inside of the delrin bushings. But that is dumb, and you are just a guy with a file and you'll fuck it up. The whole point is its a perfectly tight, accurate, better than OEM part.
These parts are just designed wrong and not worth it. So please, DO NOT BUY the delrin or aluminum FRONT carrier arm bushings from garagistic. They suck ass. Oh also after all of that they will be impossible to get out of the carrier arm without destroying it so don't even try to use these. They are awful. What I ended up doing was this, bought a standard, rubber front carrier bushing, installed it in the carrier arm, and then, when I put it on the trans, I bought some washers that were the correct size to go on either side of the bushing. It's pretty annoying to deal with installing these, and I was only able to get one of them on, but that was good enough. With just the stock carrier bushing you can tell there's side-to-side play even while under the car, but with even the one washer it's basically perfect. If you could get one on either side that would be better but for me I just said fuck it. Buy a few thicknesses and try to get it as tight as possible. I went to the store with the bushing and clip to check fitment.
3. Getting a DSSR(dual-shear selector rod) is a great idea. I have the garagistic one and it is really nice. UUC also sells one, and for a bit there was even a guy on r3vlimited selling his own homemade version, probably the best value if he is still around. If you don't know what these are just look them up, pretty self explanatory, makes shifts feel really excellent.
4. Minor thing but: keep in mind when you replace the main shifter "cup" bushing that the pivot point of the shifter sits in, you have to spin it a certain way to get it to come out. Once you spin it to the right point it will be easy, but if you don't know to do that you'll be annoyed like I was. Also you need to have some grease on hand for it but that is covered in all of the shifter rebuild guides, I'm just trying to let you know about the little finicky things.
So I'd recommend (just because it was the easiest for me) either a poly rear carrier bushing, if you don't feel like upgrading your trans mounts, or if you do feel like upgrading, a delrin one. You could try upgrading the rear carrier+shifter cup and seeing if that reduces play enough, maybe you are super lucky and have a mint front carrier bushing and a clapped out rear, and you don't have to deal with the front bushing bullshit.
Also something to consider, if you put the rubber OEM front carrier bushing+washer like I did, just that rubber may be enough to allow movement with the trans. I have no idea but if you are feeling brave AND lazy, don't want to do the trans mounts, try a delrin rear+rubber front. It might be fine. But probably the easiest way to do this completely is lower the trans, replace front+rear carrier, and since the crossmember is already off, just do the bushings and put in a delrin rear. And if it's between getting that Z3 shifter and a DSSR (they are kinda pricey) I'd say get the DSSR and try it with your current aftermarket shifter. I think with all these mods it will feel amazing, and your money is better spent on the DSSR since you already have a shortened shift throw (although it did look SUPER aggressive in the vid). Maybe after that get the Z3 shifter, but even if you go that route you'll want the upgraded selector rod anyway. I think you should just see what it's like with the crazy shifter without all the bushings being fucked and with a super solid selector rod.
One more thing (sorry for this novel) at least in my car ('87 325is) when I put my shifter in (E36 M3) because of the lower connection point on the shifter it made it so the selector rod rubbed against the metal "vibration dampener" thing around the guibo on the driveshaft. I ended up disconnecting my driveshaft and getting rid of that part, and I haven't noticed any issues with vibration, but just wanted to say if it just barely fits with the stock selector rod/short shifter, a standard DSSR will definitely make contact. I think some people (definitely that dude on r3v) said that they can make a bent DSSR to ensure it will clear the vibration dampener. Anyway with the current crazy shifter that is on the car it would for sure be a problem with the DSSR if it is close now. But just keep that in mind and maybe check the clearance beforehand so you can be sure the new selector rod will fit, or delete the dampener piece. If you have it then ideally a bent DSSR so you don't have to drop the driveshaft/throw away the dampener would be the easiest if your car has one.
Anyway that's all I got, hope this is easier for you than for me. I'm a big noob with cars and probably anyone with a lick of knowledge will kind of shake their head at my mistakes, but if this is a first car for a 17 year old I wouldn't be surprised if they ran into a few of the same issues as me.
Good luck and congrats to your boy on the nice car, post more vids of it if you have the time, want to see how it progresses!
SalRosenberg47 sal you are the GOAT (greatest of all time) with this comment nice work man. Best comment ever.
Hey thanks a lot dude, I essentially learned how to work on cars with my E30, it was also my first car (that I bought at least) and most of the jobs I've done so far like timing belt, cam seal, water pump, brakes, new stereo, header gaskets, even single fuel pump conversion; have been relatively simple and easy enough for me to figure out with minimal effort or just some help from friends/people with more experience. But fucking around with these seemingly simple set of a few shifter bushings OH BOY did I get annoyed hahah. Way harder than it looks in the guides when you're lying on your back on pavement working on something that you can't see.
Oh and one more thing that I forgot to add. When I did mine I knew I had to delete that metal dampener around the guibo, so I did the bushing job with the driveshaft off (did rear trans seal at the same time) and even then when I had a clear view of the end of the trans but not the top, it was a big pain, but definitely easier than working around the driveshaft/guibo. So yeah if you are going to delete that piece do it first and do the rest of the work with the driveshaft off. Have a good one man!
Hey I’m in the suburbs of Chicago as well do you have any shops you can recommend for my e36 318i I can’t find anybody that understands the 4 cylinder
CoolinKofi hey man, I was actually just visiting my family there. They haven’t really been able to find an honest or reasonable shop yet but will update you
does old bimmers like that have power steering and abs ? or is everything old school :)
yes this one has power steering, ABS, air conditioning
e30 one love ))
The car doesnt seem that E30 idk why. The front and the back seem kinda funny
Marino interesting, maybe you haven’t seen many early models? US cars have the big ugly bumpers too on early cars.
@@BIMMERZEITT Yeah that's also possible
Non vanos ?
vanos wasn't introduced until the M50 engine for six cylinder BMW's, this car has an M20
325i much faster