Thank you so much. I have been chasing everything like you did. I have a 1982 633 with the green module in the glove box. I actually have a metal idle control but knowing that they go bad is exciting to easily replace
Hey I was looking how to solve the same problem on my 633 and found that video. Order new valve from your link but new valve has 3 wires connector. The original one has just 2. How did you wired it? Could you explain please? Thank you.
The link sends you to an eBay search for the 325e/s valve. You have to look through the listings to make sure you find the right one. There is no way to list to a single listing because well, we're talking about used individual parts here from different sellers. Sorry if that was confusing!
Interesting. It is possible. The best way forward for most of us is to just buy the metal 325e valve for $100-$200 and get back on the road! Prices have gone very high unfortunately. BMW moved away from the plastic ones for a reason I guess.
@@BIMMERZEITT I tried cleaning mine and ended up using a car battery to attach to it. it would close shut when voltage was applied but it seemed like it was a very small range of motion and it didn’t help the idle. i took a dental pick and pulled on the plunger thing down and it opened up more than normal. there’s a lot of gunk there still apparently. i sprayed carb cleaner and moved it back and forth and it slowly got better until it reached the right idle speed. it isn’t perfect, i have to tap on it to get it to open sometimes. i’m deciding between a used one for $150 or a new old stock for $450.
It could be a faulty idle valve. Try cleaning yours first and testing resistance reading across terminal pins. If that doesn’t work, I’d replace it with a known tested working one. Not cheap these days!
Also, high idle and surging idle can also be a torn intake boot (rubber elbow) or an intake leak of some kind, like the intake manifold gaskets. Smoke test for leaks, and check the ICV.
New Idle Control Valve: ebay.us/6KZOOQ
It is so important to close the loop on the topic, too many people leave us hanging without a final resolution.
Many Thanks.
Thank you so much. I have been chasing everything like you did. I have a 1982 633 with the green module in the glove box. I actually have a metal idle control but knowing that they go bad is exciting to easily replace
Hey I was looking how to solve the same problem on my 633 and found that video. Order new valve from your link but new valve has 3 wires connector. The original one has just 2. How did you wired it? Could you explain please? Thank you.
The link sends you to an eBay search for the 325e/s valve. You have to look through the listings to make sure you find the right one. There is no way to list to a single listing because well, we're talking about used individual parts here from different sellers. Sorry if that was confusing!
you probably thought it was open and closing fine. but it wasn’t opening big enough. i got mine free thankfully
Interesting. It is possible. The best way forward for most of us is to just buy the metal 325e valve for $100-$200 and get back on the road! Prices have gone very high unfortunately. BMW moved away from the plastic ones for a reason I guess.
@@BIMMERZEITT I tried cleaning mine and ended up using a car battery to attach to it. it would close shut when voltage was applied but it seemed like it was a very small range of motion and it didn’t help the idle. i took a dental pick and pulled on the plunger thing down and it opened up more than normal. there’s a lot of gunk there still apparently. i sprayed carb cleaner and moved it back and forth and it slowly got better until it reached the right idle speed. it isn’t perfect, i have to tap on it to get it to open sometimes. i’m deciding between a used one for $150 or a new old stock for $450.
Is this information applicable for e28 528e? Mine surges and has high idle. Any info is greatly appreciated.
It could be a faulty idle valve. Try cleaning yours first and testing resistance reading across terminal pins. If that doesn’t work, I’d replace it with a known tested working one. Not cheap these days!
Also, high idle and surging idle can also be a torn intake boot (rubber elbow) or an intake leak of some kind, like the intake manifold gaskets. Smoke test for leaks, and check the ICV.
I have an e30 325e 2.7L I6 and my idle bounces, any suggestions?
1985*
Hey was wondering if you solved ur issue. I have the same car