The point in heat transfer and acetone transfer is to completely soak paper in the water, so it nearly turns into pulp. Hot water works the best. Then you just gently rub it off. This way there's no pulling and thus no traces, even the tiniest, have a chance to come off (granted you've properly prepped the board).
This video was just hilarious! I tried most of them also, and none really worked well but eventually I found that the backing of UPS labels worked the best but still unreliable. I tried the uv photoresist recently but it seems my photoresist had some flaws which made traces have flaws too. I always end up patching them with a fine felt tip pen. I am now working on a cnc method to either scrap off paint/resist or draw the traces, or use uv laser to activate the photoresist instead of a transparency print which also can have flaws. btw, I send my boards to china to be made, and finally got them after I changed the design 3 times using my self made boards and now sent the good design to china to wait 3 or 4 weeks to get them because china has lots of holidays when nobody works. I've also been working on modifying a laser printer to print directly to the pcb board. The original hack 10 years ago used a lexmark printer which I found for $5, but I'm now trying to get a Brother printer I got for free to do it, the paper feed was not working right, so it was free and I don't need a paper feed...
I recently got a laser engraver. So I am going to spray some enamel paint on the copper and burn it off with the laser. I will share that in a video also.
I have been making home PCB's for about 40 years using the positive photo resist method. But now days you can't get the resist coated boards or the chemicals anymore. MG Chemicals made the best stuff but they no longer sell it. I also have a large 8 x 12 solder pot where I dip the boards coated with liquid flux just like industry did in the 1960s before solder mask became the norm.. I find that DIY tin plating solution breaks down after a few years. I too tried many of the UA-cam toner transfer techniques including professional transfer paper with the same poor results you got. One UA-camr, Mr. Carlson's Lab, makes really good SMD PCB's with toner and a low cost modified laminating machine. I guess it's practice, practice, practice, until you come up with a good process. I hear you can get the photo resist products from Europe? PCBway is great and I use them a lot. But often I just need a simple single sided board.
I did a follow-up video using a laser engraver that is a bit out of the price range for most, but they are getting cheaper. You only need a lower power one. Aside from that, after the video I did buy a cheap laminator and it takes a lot of the guess work out of it.
My suggestion is if you can find one cheap enough, purchase a laminator. Print the transparency and feed it though about 10 times. I got one after I made the video and it made a world of difference.
@@วิทรูเตชกุลพงศ์กร anylaser compatible transparency. You can't use an inkjet printer. It has to be a laser printer for exmaple www.amazon.com/laser-transparency-film/s?k=laser+transparency+film
What temp and time did you use for the transparency film? My local paper home office store prints really good resolution onto their transparencies but am having s difficult time nailing down the time temp for them.
Hot and long. My iron doesn't have a temp setting other than linen. Heat and just as important pressure is what you need. Make sure both the transparency and copper are cleaned with isopropyl alcohol first.
@@JWNZ I am using a t shirt heat press so i can control heat, pressure and time. I fiddled a lot more and so far it looks like 240 F is the right temp set at max pressure and 30 seconds is a great start, just need to fiddle with pressure and time. Would you say if your printer can print something, that you should be able to transfer it at the same level of detail?
@chrome72 @chrome72 that sounds like the perfect device for toner transfer as you can control all aspects to have consistent results. I would say once dialed in you should get most toner to transfer. I never got 100% put pretty close.
The point in heat transfer and acetone transfer is to completely soak paper in the water, so it nearly turns into pulp. Hot water works the best. Then you just gently rub it off. This way there's no pulling and thus no traces, even the tiniest, have a chance to come off (granted you've properly prepped the board).
Excellent tutorial, thanks!!!!!
You're welcome!
This video was just hilarious! I tried most of them also, and none really worked well but eventually I found that the backing of UPS labels worked the best but still unreliable.
I tried the uv photoresist recently but it seems my photoresist had some flaws which made traces have flaws too. I always end up patching them with a fine felt tip pen.
I am now working on a cnc method to either scrap off paint/resist or draw the traces, or use uv laser to activate the photoresist instead of a transparency print which also can have flaws.
btw, I send my boards to china to be made, and finally got them after I changed the design 3 times using my self made boards and now sent the good design to china to wait 3 or 4 weeks to get them because china has lots of holidays when nobody works.
I've also been working on modifying a laser printer to print directly to the pcb board. The original hack 10 years ago used a lexmark printer which I found for $5, but I'm now trying to get a Brother printer I got for free to do it, the paper feed was not working right, so it was free and I don't need a paper feed...
I recently got a laser engraver. So I am going to spray some enamel paint on the copper and burn it off with the laser. I will share that in a video also.
I have been making home PCB's for about 40 years using the positive photo resist method. But now days you can't get the resist coated boards or the chemicals anymore. MG Chemicals made the best stuff but they no longer sell it. I also have a large 8 x 12 solder pot where I dip the boards coated with liquid flux just like industry did in the 1960s before solder mask became the norm.. I find that DIY tin plating solution breaks down after a few years. I too tried many of the UA-cam toner transfer techniques including professional transfer paper with the same poor results you got. One UA-camr, Mr. Carlson's Lab, makes really good SMD PCB's with toner and a low cost modified laminating machine. I guess it's practice, practice, practice, until you come up with a good process. I hear you can get the photo resist products from Europe? PCBway is great and I use them a lot. But often I just need a simple single sided board.
I did a follow-up video using a laser engraver that is a bit out of the price range for most, but they are getting cheaper. You only need a lower power one. Aside from that, after the video I did buy a cheap laminator and it takes a lot of the guess work out of it.
Would you mind making an in-depth guide of the Transparency film method? That would be great thanks.
My suggestion is if you can find one cheap enough, purchase a laminator. Print the transparency and feed it though about 10 times. I got one after I made the video and it made a world of difference.
@@JWNZ Many thanks but What about the transparency film what kind of printer and film type?
@@วิทรูเตชกุลพงศ์กร anylaser compatible transparency. You can't use an inkjet printer. It has to be a laser printer for exmaple www.amazon.com/laser-transparency-film/s?k=laser+transparency+film
Thank bro.
What temp and time did you use for the transparency film? My local paper home office store prints really good resolution onto their transparencies but am having s difficult time nailing down the time temp for them.
Hot and long. My iron doesn't have a temp setting other than linen. Heat and just as important pressure is what you need. Make sure both the transparency and copper are cleaned with isopropyl alcohol first.
@@JWNZ I am using a t shirt heat press so i can control heat, pressure and time. I fiddled a lot more and so far it looks like 240 F is the right temp set at max pressure and 30 seconds is a great start, just need to fiddle with pressure and time.
Would you say if your printer can print something, that you should be able to transfer it at the same level of detail?
@chrome72 @chrome72 that sounds like the perfect device for toner transfer as you can control all aspects to have consistent results. I would say once dialed in you should get most toner to transfer. I never got 100% put pretty close.
Hi, can you tell me more about the final test? you mentioned transfer for 3d printing... what material do you use there, whats these transfer film??
It is transparency film also know as acetate. Most stationary shops will have it.
For the Toner Transfer technique, 5:10 what film did you use and what printer? Thanks in advance.
Any laser printer and any laser printer compatible acetate will work 😀
Too much talking
Feel free to mute :)