I was working on my '97, got the alternator replaced, then couldn't figure out the tension on the belt when trying to put it back. Your video was the only one I found that showed how that part worked. I really appreciate it.
Good vid, thanks OP. Note: If the tensioner is stuck, like mine was, don't try to unstick it. Just remove it and get a new one. I tried to unstick mine. Used WD40 and worked it back and forth a few times, and suddenly it broke apart, jamming the ratchet into the fan blades. It took a sawzall with a 12" long blade in order to cut the tensioner in half, freeing it. A new tensioner cost me $60. I rebuilt the alternator, kit was $38. But it was such a hassle, though successful. If I had to do it over again, I'd have gotten a new one from DB Electrical for $68. BTW my truck is a 1997 Ranger with 150k miles.
Excellent video! Covered everything I needed to know as well as things that other videos failed to mention. Replaced my first alternator today; took about 45 minutes (including time to re-watch the video and run back and forth for tools), and we are good to go at 14.5 volts!
Dan, I appreciate this video. I also have the 2.5, 2000 ranger, manual. Your video helped me change my altenator within a couple of hours. The only thing I would also add is be careful when moving the two vacuum hoses that run adjacent to the heater core hoses. Those suckers can be very brittle. I only touched one when trying to move it out of the way, and the hose snapped in two. Luckily, where it broke, i got a bigger diameter hose from Ford parts and just jammed the two broken ends into the new hose. Good as new. Thanks Dan!!
Thank you for the kind words, I create these videos on the side to help others in need. It has become quite the hobby for me. Also thank you for the extra tip.
4:08 funny you mention "that fitting". It's a heater control valve, i only know because i just bought a ranger dirt cheap and that thing was leaking coolant. Replacement wasn't bad, except my hoses were kind of hard to get off.
Ford guys call this the "3G" alternator. Believe it or not the old ones used on older Rangers, Mustangs and LTDs were even less reliable. Some even caught on fire.
Ford, Fix Or Repair Daily. lol. Actually pretty reliable though compared to times past. My 97 Ranger has been pretty good, though not as good as my last truck, an 86 Toyota pickup.
I'm not a pro mech and your video provided me guidance on changing my 1997 Ranger alternator. Thanks for saving me $$$ on labor for DIY'ers.
I was working on my '97, got the alternator replaced, then couldn't figure out the tension on the belt when trying to put it back. Your video was the only one I found that showed how that part worked. I really appreciate it.
Glad to help.
Good vid, thanks OP. Note: If the tensioner is stuck, like mine was, don't try to unstick it. Just remove it and get a new one. I tried to unstick mine. Used WD40 and worked it back and forth a few times, and suddenly it broke apart, jamming the ratchet into the fan blades. It took a sawzall with a 12" long blade in order to cut the tensioner in half, freeing it. A new tensioner cost me $60. I rebuilt the alternator, kit was $38. But it was such a hassle, though successful. If I had to do it over again, I'd have gotten a new one from DB Electrical for $68. BTW my truck is a 1997 Ranger with 150k miles.
Excellent video! Covered everything I needed to know as well as things that other videos failed to mention. Replaced my first alternator today; took about 45 minutes (including time to re-watch the video and run back and forth for tools), and we are good to go at 14.5 volts!
Thank you for sharing. I appreciate the compliment.
Dan, I appreciate this video. I also have the 2.5, 2000 ranger, manual. Your video helped me change my altenator within a couple of hours. The only thing I would also add is be careful when moving the two vacuum hoses that run adjacent to the heater core hoses. Those suckers can be very brittle. I only touched one when trying to move it out of the way, and the hose snapped in two. Luckily, where it broke, i got a bigger diameter hose from Ford parts and just jammed the two broken ends into the new hose. Good as new. Thanks Dan!!
Thank you for the kind words, I create these videos on the side to help others in need. It has become quite the hobby for me. Also thank you for the extra tip.
👍
thanks for the video dude. recently bought a 1999 as a daily beater and content like this is helping me get it on the road faster.
At least Ford made it easy. I have to replace one in my buddy's Ranger. Glad I found your video!
Thank you! Thank you! I successfully replaced my alternator following your directions.
Your welcome 🙏
This is a very well done DIY video.....excellent
Thank you for the feedback. 👍
Great video very helpful man
Thanks man... exactly what I've been looking for, great video 👍👍 💪
This helped alot thanks dude
Your very welcome
Excellent
4:08 funny you mention "that fitting". It's a heater control valve, i only know because i just bought a ranger dirt cheap and that thing was leaking coolant. Replacement wasn't bad, except my hoses were kind of hard to get off.
I appreciate you taking the time to share.
@@TweekerDan1984 and thanks for the upload. Belt change complete thanks to this vid.
Thank you v much !!!
Thank you!!
What tools and sizes do I need?
The belt displayed in the video, K060819...is this for a 97 Ranger XLT with a 2.3L WITH or WITHOUT power steering?
With power steering.
Gotta love tweekers. Just don’t trust them to watch your bicycle
Hahaha, love it!
nice....
UGH! HOLD THAT CAMERA STILL!!!
ford problems....
Ford guys call this the "3G" alternator. Believe it or not the old ones used on older Rangers, Mustangs and LTDs were even less reliable. Some even caught on fire.
Ford, Fix Or Repair Daily. lol. Actually pretty reliable though compared to times past. My 97 Ranger has been pretty good, though not as good as my last truck, an 86 Toyota pickup.