This video explains the good and bad about the Paasche Model H. For more information about airbrushing scale models, visit my web page at: paulbudzik.com/tools-techniqu...
Good information. When I started, I fell head first into the trap you talk about. I'm not an artist. With anything. I just need to spray a coat of paint on a model. And not knowing any better, I bought a double action airbrush with a .2mm nozzle. I had nothing but headaches. With a good deal more acquired knowledge, and some experience under my belt, I ended up landing in the middle. My workhorse is still a single action. But it's a gravity fed, internal mix. The button controls only the air, while the paint flow is controlled by adjusting the needle with a thumbscrew. And it has a .45mm nozzle. So I get the general purpose airbrush with the superior coverage of an internal mix, while having the simplicity of single action. Best of both worlds.
Apart from being a world class model maker, and entertaining with it, Paul's voice has got such a meditative effect, in a good way. The 'Bob Ross' of modelling. 👍
I've seen ads from 1924 for a Paasche Mdl H. It was designed for respraying furniture (like chairs) and for females. The fine line artist used Paasche Turbo AB, from 1903. Airbrushes were invented before spray guns. A Mdl H is a diffuser type airbrush. Which the first spray guns made of a larger version. Also a company (American and English) sold the same style air brush called a "Binks Wren" (I still own mine from the mid 1960's as we used them as a touch-up gun for paint chips). You can still buy "diffuser" art tool that uses your own blowing through the air tube on top. I still have one in my tool box. Some of the best customer painters from the late 60's right through the 1970's used model H's as you could get it with three different tip sizes and use two hands to hold it and secure the jar. Olypus (Later sold under licence by Iwata) came with a rubber spacer on the needle, which meant you couldn't use Lacquer or alcohol based paints as the washers would expand and clog the airbrush. I've retired (Thanks to Dupont and Monsanto-Agent Orange-Vietnam-2/502 Infantry, 101st Airborne) put me in a wheel chair. I still do smaller (A3 and A4 size) works, mostly wildlife. I think I own about 5 or 6 "H's" among the others. It's a great little brush, built to last, though the new models come with plastic jars (You can buy glass). As a side note, if I'm spraying enamel I drill out the breather hole on the jar top a few sizes larger to help the enamel flow better ... and plug the hole, if sitting for awhile, with a map pin. ... just an old trick.
I had to laugh out loud, I AM that person you were speaking of! Thank you for consistently presenting interesting, accurate, informative and intelligent videos with your excellent sense of humor!
My first airbrush was a Binks with apparently similar spray characteristics to the H as described. I upgraded to the Iwata Eclipse two years ago and struggled with the transition. But alas, I pushed on through as practice makes perfect... and a wife cussing me for investing in an expensive new tool that sat in the drawer. Thank you Doctor for providing outstanding content with reality based humor that I always enjoy.
Paasche model H serves it's intended purpose as does any double action airbrush. I've used a Badger 350 and the Paasche Model H for decades to paint model car bodies and I get mirror finishes with both of them and my Iwata Neo plus the 2 cheapo 186 series brushes I found on sale ($30 for both). It's all about how you prep the paint before spraying for the Brush you are going to use, I need half as much thinner to get enamels thru my Badger and H as I do through my Iwata or the other 2 gravity feeders but I need half again as much air pressure to move the paint vs the Iwata and others. There's a learning curve for each and every Airbrush you will use and from experience I will say this: Model cars and planes really have no need for Dual action brushes unless you are doing very intricate detail painting, for priming and base/finish coating the Badger 350 style as well as the H style will serve well and produce beautiful results (Yes you can win model car paint contests). Learn your brush and Stick with 1 let that be your daily driver, the main issue with Airbrushers in the hobby is they buy 6 or 12 different ones and switch around. Great once you master 1 then move on, take notes for each what works best etc. That way you always have that ability to go right back to it.
Used a P. H for 20 years. I found Iwata Revolution CR to be the perfect upgrade. Can be a firehose too, to some degree but the detail and control you get are a true improvement in both the joy of modeling and the quality of my results. Thanks for the video.
Great advice! I was Fred....it took me two years to figure this out. I still like my Paasche H and use it occasionally, but after some difficulty, I eventually learned to manage (not master) my Iwata HP- C. I always enjoy your videos.
Thanks, Paul. I always enjoy your videos. I think maybe I was Fred many years in the past. What really had to happen to get my airbrushing skills up and operating at all was some help from one of the old hands at the club I joined. It took a while but finally I started to understand that there were a whole bunch of things that I would need to understand to get proficient at it. Some understanding comes only from doing and some with the guidance of a helpful friend or presentation at a club meeting. If anybody out there is struggling with their airbrush, just search for airbrush tutorials on YT and you’ll get a bucketload of contestants. Watch a bunch of those guys. Pick one that seems sensible to you and try it his (or her) way. Probably that will get you going. If not, pick another person who seems knowledgeable. You know what to look for. You’ll get it. Like riding a bicycle is difficult until, in a fraction of a moment, it becomes effortless.
I bought mine this week for weathering my freight cars. I plan on doing lots of white fading with acrylics and have seen good results with single actions.
Paul - I [as well as many others] thoroughly enjoy your channel and informative content... would you consider doing a walk around tour of your shop - as I am sure it would be very interesting to many viewers and give many of us some useful ideas for how to set up our own work spaces.
Great video as usual Paul, the "H" is all I use, Paul I purchased my first "H" at Arthur's toys downtown many, many years ago, I have a double action but don't use it much. Always good to see you Sir!
Thanks Bob! Those really were the good old days ... best modeling times and the club was all together. Hope you and your family are doing well and safe. Good to hear from you too!
Good golly, I never looked at my Paasche H tip that close. It is like a firehose. But I love it. And use it more than my dual-action brushes. Thanks for exploring the myth.
Early this year I painted two 1/48 scale Me-109's (Spanish markings) with my Paasche H. I used Mr. Hobby paints. Guess what........ These models ended up being some of my best models, yet !! Super smooth, even paint job. Great semi gloss finish. I'm not going to get rid of my H. That's for sure !! You have to experiment with the setting of the needle and adjuster. Getting to know the H very well is - not surprisingly - quite essential to get a good paint job. Once you know how to use it, it really is a great airbrush.
...I bought one back ca. 1971 - when I came home on convalescent leave from Ft Knox - took it back with me and from there to Germany...built a number of Tamiya armor kits along the way...fixin' to but a #5 tip 1.75 mm - it still has the original #3 tip...BTW I still have all original parts - box & hose
I have an H - when fitted with an adapter for an Iwata hose the quick connect hits the color cup so it's out. I have a double action VLS with a 6 nozzle - works fine for a basic coat. Although for that I have found that the single action Creos brush (made in Japan for Gunze) with a .4 nozzle is tops for primer - I find it easier to use than the Iwata Spray gun that I bought. But I wonder if most modelers couldn't live pretty nicely with a VLS - easy to clean, last forever and about $50 new for a basic model. (I have 8 air brushes - Iwata, Creos, Harder Steenbeck and the Paasche. Even together they're cheaper than my brother's pontoon boat. I look at them like paint brushes - they're all a little different and all get used at the right time. Optional though - a kind of weakness. I'd take my Iwata IPHCs to a desert island if needed.) Paul - going to get to the A-20? That kits been in my stash for a few years and it looks very neat. Sure like to get your take on it.
The model H was my first airbrush bought in a blister pack decades ago. I abused that thing trying to spray all sorts of non-modelling acrylics. When it worked it was great. But it was mostly not great. Add to that being in the pre-UA-cam days, there was no guidance as to how to clean the thing. Well in the last few years I bought a HP-CS. What an excellent brush. Of course I keep it meticulously clean. Should probably give the model H and other chance....
Modelers shouldn’t underestimate the capabilities of the Paasche Model H. The Model H was the only airbrush my dad Arlo Schroeder used. His scratch-built, 1/16-scale Grumman TBF is on display in the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum, and many of his other 1/16-scale models are on display in the Naval Aviation Museum. Those models along with his scratch-built, 1/32-scale TBF that he personally presented to George H.W. Bush, prove the worth of the Model H.
I am certainly familiar with your father's work, as my scratchbuilt models have appeared in some of the same books. I didn't say you couldn't do a fine paint job with a Paasche H. And if that's the tool you are comfortable with, then you should probably stick with it. But as I showed in the video, the external mix format of the H does not allow it to atomize as well as an internal mix air-painting tool. It's just a fact. And when your stuff consistently winds up under a macro lens, any sort of rough surface undermines the credibility of the model.
First airbrush was a Paasche Model H. It would spit and spray like a cobra, but that probably had more to do with me being a teenager and not knowing my you-know-what from my elbow. So different these days, with a wealth of knowledge always just a click away. Have plans to get an HVLP gun for primers, varnishes, and basecoats based on your recommendations, but I will say that I've no trouble laying down a super-smooth layer with my small-nozzle airbrushes and some leveling thinner/retarder. Just takes a lot longer because you're talking about scores of passes instead of merely a few.
The paint bottle kept fall off my Paasche H. No matter how hard I shoved it in there, it always came loose and fell out. No more syphon feed for me, I just bought an Iwata NEO TRN1 and it's been a game changer. The trigger just feels more natural and no more hand cramps for those longer than usual paint sessions. I'll keep the Paasche H and just use the small syphon side mount cup for those larger coverage projects.
Hi Paul. As a novice modeler and especially novice painter I really appreciate your in depth and detailed videos. I myself have fallen victim to the shiny new airbrush syndrome. I use a H&S brush. I get a decent enough finish on 72 scale prop planes and armor but I'm looking at my 32 scale Tamiya F-16 and thinking "how the heck am I going to airbrush that thing with my .2 needle nozzle combo!". Even 35 scale armor is a huge chore with the small brush. What airbrush do you recommend for base coating larger scale models?
I was looking at airbrushes today. Out of the blue another timely video from you. I would really like to see a video on changing over from one needle size to another. It was a complete failure the one time I tried it. Paint dripped out the nozzle. I am looking for an airbrush that gives more control and fewer option for on the fly changes. I have some physical limitations. I liked the suggestion you made below of the Iwata HI-LINE HP-TH I think the style of trigger may aide me in holding a constant spray? I like my current tool the Eclipse HP-CS, but struggle to be consistent with the spray. Full open is never the right choice unless cleaning it. A cheap brush I have, has a screw at the rear which truncates the draw of the trigger. Which helps. But it is not a great air brush otherwise.
I too am Fred. Just started building models again after years long hiatus. I used to use an H but somewhere along the line it went the way of the High Elf (vanished). So I had to get a new airbrush. Upgraded to an Iwata HP-BCS (siphon) double action and the gravity fed airbrush that came with the Avanti air compressor (Harbor Freight). I have yet to have a consistently good experience. Had a very frustrating time yesterday trying to simply hose down a pair of 1/35 tracks! Sorely tempted to go back to an H. But I won't because I know that it's not the tool, it's the user. I just need to learn how to use the tool and that takes time and practice. (and practice and practice and practice...) *Sigh*
Is it ok to say that I’m perfectly happy with my Infinity? Only painting whites and reds seem to occasionally block the nozzle but when I use a lacquer paint I don’t seem to have that problem… I also use it on 28mm miniatures as well
I don't own a Paasche H, or any other Paasche airbrush for that matter. My first airbrush, and quite honestly the one I still use the most, was an $8 single action airbrush I got at Harbor Freight. Shortly thereafter I put down $20 for their "Deluxe" double action brush. At the time I did not realize that they were knock-offs of Badger brushes, so please forgive me! I also own a Badger Patriot 105 (love that airbrush!), and a NeoEco brush from Amazon. For doing primers, base coats, and clear coats I reach for the $8 airbrush. For weathering I use the Patriot. The NeoEco falls somewhere in between. Use the right tool for the right job.
Right on the money. I've been using a Paasche model H for 20 + years. It's a great airbrush if you just want to get quick coverage, you can get some quite acceptable results. I do use a Harder and Steenbeck for the fiddly stuff though, like my 1:24 Maus camo! Nice video, great channel.
I have to take exception with “the H has poor atomization “ like all airbrushes the paint is too thick you get poor spray, I have had an H since I was 16 years old and used the canned air for the first bit that taught me very quickly to thin my paint so it would just spray let alone atomize well. I still use my H to this day and I can get fine lines with setting my air pressure to the right paint consistency almost as good as my double action airbrush.
I actually started using the F and H a little earlier than you did, and that would make it over half a century ago. So I think I know how to handle it. But it's just a fact that hanging the nozzle and tip way out into the air stream can't do the same job as a coaxial needle and nozzle located at the outlet of the aircap. I assume you saw my side by side comparison that are in the video. If you saw that and are still happy with your results, than go for. As I also said in the video, it's all about having fun.
@@scale-model-workshop my results with the H are way better than the side by side examples shown. my H I used it for colour fill on my art school painting and 3D figures forty five years ago.
Le Paasche H permet de pulvériser des peintures épaisses et pas forcément bien diluée car il a des buses très grosses. C'est pourquoi, les personnes qui ne connaissent que ça sont parfois mal préparé aux buses de 0.2 des aérographes double action et à la nécessité de bien diluer la peinture pour ne pas boucher et aussi à la nécessité de nettoyer régulièrement l'aiguille après quelques minutes d'utilisation et à bien nettoyer le tout ensuite.
I'm a plastic model builder, air & ships in 48th & 350th. What size dual action would work best? I'm looking at a PS270 but listening here do I need 0.2? Is there a good sweet spot for area coverage & detail work like cammo mottled work etc?
Thanks. I've given a couple a try, but I don't see anything remarkable about them. Certainly nothing to justify the price. I fall pretty square in the Iwata camp ... they have a far broader range of quality products. They are the standard for the real pros who make their living with an airbrush.
I have a lot of airbrushes. The H is a very good airbrush. The best point I heard in this video is guys that insist on using these ultra fine airbrushes for modeling. I use a Patriot 105 with the heavy .8 needle nozzle and I can get super fine lines and details with it by adjusting psi and distance from the surface. I'm not against using a SOTAR I own 2. Like I said I have a lot of airbrushes. But I seriously have to laugh when folks insist that finer is better. Whenever I've been asked I've suggested a Paasche H and a Patriot 105 in your Arsenal.
Well, I've just bought a new airbrush, a cheap trigger type, with 0.3, 0.5 and 0.8mm needles nozzles. Hopefully this should handle metallics better (with the 0.5mm fitted) than my current H&S Ultra with a 0.4mm nozzle!
I agree most of the fancy airbrushes modelers are attracted to are too small for a lot of modeling. I got a Paasche VL-3 40 years ago, and it's still my only airbrush, though I've added a #1 tip to my kit. The VL is internal mix, siphon feed, and can put out a lot or a little paint, so it's quite versatile. It's rugged, easy to clean, and parts are readily available.
I've had a VL-3 since the mid-80's too. Also my only airbrush. It has served me well over the years. From way back as an artist & graphic designer to today as I've gotten back into the model building hobby.
Interesting. Im pretty new to this whole airbrush buisness, do you think 0.4 mm nozzle would be enough for priming 28/32mm scale figurines? Or should I get one of them "fire hoses"? :^)
It's not just nozzle size. For primer, you need material flow and good atomization. I would recommend the Iwata HP-TH, otherwise just use a spray can. The spray can will give you just as smooth a surface as the Paasche H.
@@scale-model-workshop wow, even for 28/32 mm scale figures? Basically everybody in the wargaming painting community is using regular airbrush for that, I thought I could use one as well... Does it have to be Iwata, or any decent quality low pressure low volume spray gun with like 0.6-0.8mm nozzle will do? I live in EU and Japanese products are pretty expensive here while I probably could get a German or other EU-made spray gun for much cheaper, those should be decent quality too...
AS Paul says the Paasche H does not do a great job of atomizing which makes it fantastic at spatter, I use for my work in make-up sfx. Not much in my model making.
The Model H, the Badger 350, and the Binks Wren. I had them all and though aesthetically different, they were functionally the same brush. Junk. I thought I was moving up by getting a Paasche VL double action. I was wrong. it was junk too.
I also have used the H for many years, and will for many more years to come (hopefully). I do use a Iwata double action for finer work. One major issue I’ve had with the H is with Tamiya paint - it splatters and doesn’t flow well, unless you’re blasting it wide open. The double action works much better with Tamiya products IMHO
I've used my Paasche H for over 20 years - I also have a Devilbiss Double Action. The Paasche is so much easier to use and clean that the D/A hardly ever gets used. Tony
Noooo, for my finer detailing, I use a good old BADGER 200G Single-action Gravity-feed Airbrush with an Ultra-Fine Needle- You'd be surprised what beautiful results one can achieve with "just" an old "DINOSAUR" like a Badger 200G... HUNDREDS of dollars SAVED!!!
Good information. When I started, I fell head first into the trap you talk about. I'm not an artist. With anything. I just need to spray a coat of paint on a model. And not knowing any better, I bought a double action airbrush with a .2mm nozzle. I had nothing but headaches. With a good deal more acquired knowledge, and some experience under my belt, I ended up landing in the middle. My workhorse is still a single action. But it's a gravity fed, internal mix. The button controls only the air, while the paint flow is controlled by adjusting the needle with a thumbscrew. And it has a .45mm nozzle. So I get the general purpose airbrush with the superior coverage of an internal mix, while having the simplicity of single action. Best of both worlds.
Apart from being a world class model maker, and entertaining with it, Paul's voice has got such a meditative effect, in a good way. The 'Bob Ross' of modelling. 👍
He really is...QFT.
Had to second that. His voice, demeanor, and manners are incredible. This is a person with a class.
I bought my H back in 78 when attending art school. Yes, it is a workhorse. Still have it, still works just like the day I bought it.
I've seen ads from 1924 for a Paasche Mdl H. It was designed for respraying furniture (like chairs) and for females. The fine line artist used Paasche Turbo AB, from 1903. Airbrushes were invented before spray guns. A Mdl H is a diffuser type airbrush. Which the first spray guns made of a larger version. Also a company (American and English) sold the same style air brush called a "Binks Wren" (I still own mine from the mid 1960's as we used them as a touch-up gun for paint chips). You can still buy "diffuser" art tool that uses your own blowing through the air tube on top. I still have one in my tool box. Some of the best customer painters from the late 60's right through the 1970's used model H's as you could get it with three different tip sizes and use two hands to hold it and secure the jar. Olypus (Later sold under licence by Iwata) came with a rubber spacer on the needle, which meant you couldn't use Lacquer or alcohol based paints as the washers would expand and clog the airbrush. I've retired (Thanks to Dupont and Monsanto-Agent Orange-Vietnam-2/502 Infantry, 101st Airborne) put me in a wheel chair. I still do smaller (A3 and A4 size) works, mostly wildlife. I think I own about 5 or 6 "H's" among the others. It's a great little brush, built to last, though the new models come with plastic jars (You can buy glass). As a side note, if I'm spraying enamel I drill out the breather hole on the jar top a few sizes larger to help the enamel flow better ... and plug the hole, if sitting for awhile, with a map pin. ... just an old trick.
I had to laugh out loud, I AM that person you were speaking of! Thank you for consistently presenting interesting, accurate, informative and intelligent videos with your excellent sense of humor!
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FLINTSTONE?!? Is it really you?!?
😮
😄
🇺🇸
Your videos are always a treat Doc! Light-hearted and full of knowledge, thanks!
My first airbrush was a Binks with apparently similar spray characteristics to the H as described. I upgraded to the Iwata Eclipse two years ago and struggled with the transition. But alas, I pushed on through as practice makes perfect... and a wife cussing me for investing in an expensive new tool that sat in the drawer. Thank you Doctor for providing outstanding content with reality based humor that I always enjoy.
Great to see youre still well Paul.
Great tutorial Paul, much appreciated, amazing insight
Was thinking about getting a new Airbrush, this video is Very helpful, now I'll know way more things to consider when looking witch one i should get.
Paasche model H serves it's intended purpose as does any double action airbrush. I've used a Badger 350 and the Paasche Model H for decades to paint model car bodies and I get mirror finishes with both of them and my Iwata Neo plus the 2 cheapo 186 series brushes I found on sale ($30 for both). It's all about how you prep the paint before spraying for the Brush you are going to use, I need half as much thinner to get enamels thru my Badger and H as I do through my Iwata or the other 2 gravity feeders but I need half again as much air pressure to move the paint vs the Iwata and others. There's a learning curve for each and every Airbrush you will use and from experience I will say this: Model cars and planes really have no need for Dual action brushes unless you are doing very intricate detail painting, for priming and base/finish coating the Badger 350 style as well as the H style will serve well and produce beautiful results (Yes you can win model car paint contests). Learn your brush and Stick with 1 let that be your daily driver, the main issue with Airbrushers in the hobby is they buy 6 or 12 different ones and switch around. Great once you master 1 then move on, take notes for each what works best etc. That way you always have that ability to go right back to it.
Used a P. H for 20 years. I found Iwata Revolution CR to be the perfect upgrade. Can be a firehose too, to some degree but the detail and control you get are a true improvement in both the joy of modeling and the quality of my results. Thanks for the video.
Great advice! I was Fred....it took me two years to figure this out. I still like my Paasche H and use it occasionally, but after some difficulty, I eventually learned to manage (not master) my Iwata HP- C. I always enjoy your videos.
Thank you
Awesome video as always!
Very informative and interesting. Thank you.
Thanks, Paul. I always enjoy your videos. I think maybe I was Fred many years in the past. What really had to happen to get my airbrushing skills up and operating at all was some help from one of the old hands at the club I joined. It took a while but finally I started to understand that there were a whole bunch of things that I would need to understand to get proficient at it. Some understanding comes only from doing and some with the guidance of a helpful friend or presentation at a club meeting. If anybody out there is struggling with their airbrush, just search for airbrush tutorials on YT and you’ll get a bucketload of contestants. Watch a bunch of those guys. Pick one that seems sensible to you and try it his (or her) way. Probably that will get you going. If not, pick another person who seems knowledgeable. You know what to look for. You’ll get it. Like riding a bicycle is difficult until, in a fraction of a moment, it becomes effortless.
Really like your vids! Keep up the great work!!
Thank you
I bought mine this week for weathering my freight cars. I plan on doing lots of white fading with acrylics and have seen good results with single actions.
Paul - I [as well as many others] thoroughly enjoy your channel and informative content... would you consider doing a walk around tour of your shop - as I am sure it would be very interesting to many viewers and give many of us some useful ideas for how to set up our own work spaces.
love your videos Paul, you're the best
Thank you Roger ... That means a lot!!
Great video as usual Paul, the "H" is all I use, Paul I purchased my first "H" at Arthur's toys downtown many, many years ago, I have a double action but don't use it much.
Always good to see you Sir!
Thanks Bob! Those really were the good old days ... best modeling times and the club was all together. Hope you and your family are doing well and safe. Good to hear from you too!
Outstanding informative video! 👍🏻🎅👍🏻
Always happy to see a new video from you. I learn something from every one of them. Stay well.
Excellent video thanks Paul 👍 George in England
Good golly, I never looked at my Paasche H tip that close. It is like a firehose. But I love it. And use it more than my dual-action brushes. Thanks for exploring the myth.
Great information. Thank you. 👍👍🇨🇦
Great video!
Really well made video 😊
Early this year I painted two 1/48 scale Me-109's (Spanish markings) with my Paasche H. I used Mr. Hobby paints.
Guess what........
These models ended up being some of my best models, yet !! Super smooth, even paint job. Great semi gloss finish.
I'm not going to get rid of my H. That's for sure !!
You have to experiment with the setting of the needle and adjuster. Getting to know the H very well is - not surprisingly - quite essential to get a good paint job. Once you know how to use it, it really is a great airbrush.
I also found that Mr. Hobby paints work very well with the Paasche H.
Great stuff!!!
This is great advice
I have both a Paasche Model H and a Paasche Talon. They both have their uses depending on what you need done.
...I bought one back ca. 1971 - when I came home on convalescent leave from Ft Knox - took it back with me and from there to Germany...built a number of Tamiya armor kits along the way...fixin' to but a #5 tip 1.75 mm - it still has the original #3 tip...BTW I still have all original parts - box & hose
I didn't know a product existed that had manufacturers scared to give details of their designs. But then I started shopping for an airbrush.
I have an H - when fitted with an adapter for an Iwata hose the quick connect hits the color cup so it's out. I have a double action VLS with a 6 nozzle - works fine for a basic coat. Although for that I have found that the single action Creos brush (made in Japan for Gunze) with a .4 nozzle is tops for primer - I find it easier to use than the Iwata Spray gun that I bought. But I wonder if most modelers couldn't live pretty nicely with a VLS - easy to clean, last forever and about $50 new for a basic model. (I have 8 air brushes - Iwata, Creos, Harder Steenbeck and the Paasche. Even together they're cheaper than my brother's pontoon boat. I look at them like paint brushes - they're all a little different and all get used at the right time. Optional though - a kind of weakness. I'd take my Iwata IPHCs to a desert island if needed.)
Paul - going to get to the A-20? That kits been in my stash for a few years and it looks very neat. Sure like to get your take on it.
The model H was my first airbrush bought in a blister pack decades ago. I abused that thing trying to spray all sorts of non-modelling acrylics. When it worked it was great. But it was mostly not great. Add to that being in the pre-UA-cam days, there was no guidance as to how to clean the thing. Well in the last few years I bought a HP-CS. What an excellent brush. Of course I keep it meticulously clean. Should probably give the model H and other chance....
Modelers shouldn’t underestimate the capabilities of the Paasche Model H. The Model H was the only airbrush my dad Arlo Schroeder used. His scratch-built, 1/16-scale Grumman TBF is on display in the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum, and many of his other 1/16-scale models are on display in the Naval Aviation Museum. Those models along with his scratch-built, 1/32-scale TBF that he personally presented to George H.W. Bush, prove the worth of the Model H.
I am certainly familiar with your father's work, as my scratchbuilt models have appeared in some of the same books. I didn't say you couldn't do a fine paint job with a Paasche H. And if that's the tool you are comfortable with, then you should probably stick with it. But as I showed in the video, the external mix format of the H does not allow it to atomize as well as an internal mix air-painting tool. It's just a fact. And when your stuff consistently winds up under a macro lens, any sort of rough surface undermines the credibility of the model.
No disagreement intended. Thanks for the reply and keep the videos coming!
First airbrush was a Paasche Model H. It would spit and spray like a cobra, but that probably had more to do with me being a teenager and not knowing my you-know-what from my elbow. So different these days, with a wealth of knowledge always just a click away.
Have plans to get an HVLP gun for primers, varnishes, and basecoats based on your recommendations, but I will say that I've no trouble laying down a super-smooth layer with my small-nozzle airbrushes and some leveling thinner/retarder. Just takes a lot longer because you're talking about scores of passes instead of merely a few.
I use both a single & double action airbrush.
A Paasche H & a Talon. I love them both.
Use the right tool for the job.
The paint bottle kept fall off my Paasche H. No matter how hard I shoved it in there, it always came loose and fell out. No more syphon feed for me, I just bought an Iwata NEO TRN1 and it's been a game changer. The trigger just feels more natural and no more hand cramps for those longer than usual paint sessions. I'll keep the Paasche H and just use the small syphon side mount cup for those larger coverage projects.
Hi Paul. As a novice modeler and especially novice painter I really appreciate your in depth and detailed videos. I myself have fallen victim to the shiny new airbrush syndrome. I use a H&S brush. I get a decent enough finish on 72 scale prop planes and armor but I'm looking at my 32 scale Tamiya F-16 and thinking "how the heck am I going to airbrush that thing with my .2 needle nozzle combo!". Even 35 scale armor is a huge chore with the small brush. What airbrush do you recommend for base coating larger scale models?
Amazing thanks!!!!
I was looking at airbrushes today. Out of the blue another timely video from you. I would really like to see a video on changing over from one needle size to another. It was a complete failure the one time I tried it. Paint dripped out the nozzle. I am looking for an airbrush that gives more control and fewer option for on the fly changes. I have some physical limitations. I liked the suggestion you made below of the Iwata HI-LINE HP-TH I think the style of trigger may aide me in holding a constant spray? I like my current tool the Eclipse HP-CS, but struggle to be consistent with the spray. Full open is never the right choice unless cleaning it. A cheap brush I have, has a screw at the rear which truncates the draw of the trigger. Which helps. But it is not a great air brush otherwise.
My H is over 40 years old and it still does the job .
I too am Fred. Just started building models again after years long hiatus. I used to use an H but somewhere along the line it went the way of the High Elf (vanished). So I had to get a new airbrush. Upgraded to an Iwata HP-BCS (siphon) double action and the gravity fed airbrush that came with the Avanti air compressor (Harbor Freight). I have yet to have a consistently good experience. Had a very frustrating time yesterday trying to simply hose down a pair of 1/35 tracks! Sorely tempted to go back to an H. But I won't because I know that it's not the tool, it's the user. I just need to learn how to use the tool and that takes time and practice. (and practice and practice and practice...) *Sigh*
Is it ok to say that I’m perfectly happy with my Infinity? Only painting whites and reds seem to occasionally block the nozzle but when I use a lacquer paint I don’t seem to have that problem… I also use it on 28mm miniatures as well
I don't own a Paasche H, or any other Paasche airbrush for that matter. My first airbrush, and quite honestly the one I still use the most, was an $8 single action airbrush I got at Harbor Freight. Shortly thereafter I put down $20 for their "Deluxe" double action brush. At the time I did not realize that they were knock-offs of Badger brushes, so please forgive me! I also own a Badger Patriot 105 (love that airbrush!), and a NeoEco brush from Amazon. For doing primers, base coats, and clear coats I reach for the $8 airbrush. For weathering I use the Patriot. The NeoEco falls somewhere in between. Use the right tool for the right job.
Right on the money. I've been using a Paasche model H for 20 + years. It's a great airbrush if you just want to get quick coverage, you can get some quite acceptable results. I do use a Harder and Steenbeck for the fiddly stuff though, like my 1:24 Maus camo! Nice video, great channel.
Nice!
I have to take exception with “the H has poor atomization “ like all airbrushes the paint is too thick you get poor spray, I have had an H since I was 16 years old and used the canned air for the first bit that taught me very quickly to thin my paint so it would just spray let alone atomize well. I still use my H to this day and I can get fine lines with setting my air pressure to the right paint consistency almost as good as my double action airbrush.
I actually started using the F and H a little earlier than you did, and that would make it over half a century ago. So I think I know how to handle it. But it's just a fact that hanging the nozzle and tip way out into the air stream can't do the same job as a coaxial needle and nozzle located at the outlet of the aircap. I assume you saw my side by side comparison that are in the video. If you saw that and are still happy with your results, than go for. As I also said in the video, it's all about having fun.
@@scale-model-workshop my results with the H are way better than the side by side examples shown. my H I used it for colour fill on my art school painting and 3D figures forty five years ago.
One of my first two airbrushes was a Binks Wren B. Every time I try to retire it I can’t. Like a 19/64 wrench, when you need it, nothing else will do.
Advice to heed my friend
how bout some examples of what "Fred" should have looked at choosing?
Le Paasche H permet de pulvériser des peintures épaisses et pas forcément bien diluée car il a des buses très grosses. C'est pourquoi, les personnes qui ne connaissent que ça sont parfois mal préparé aux buses de 0.2 des aérographes double action et à la nécessité de bien diluer la peinture pour ne pas boucher et aussi à la nécessité de nettoyer régulièrement l'aiguille après quelques minutes d'utilisation et à bien nettoyer le tout ensuite.
Perfect.
Still happy with my Binks Wren.
Wise words
My first was a Iwata airbrushed but my big hands always fucked up the tips I like the Paasche double action airbrush or harder and steenbeck
I'm a plastic model builder, air & ships in 48th & 350th. What size dual action would work best?
I'm looking at a PS270 but listening here do I need 0.2? Is there a good sweet spot for area coverage & detail work like cammo mottled work etc?
I put this video up specifically to answer questions about my personal recommendations ua-cam.com/video/bA2KTZF__FY/v-deo.html
Enjoy your videos. Have you tried a Grex airbrush?
Thanks. I've given a couple a try, but I don't see anything remarkable about them. Certainly nothing to justify the price. I fall pretty square in the Iwata camp ... they have a far broader range of quality products. They are the standard for the real pros who make their living with an airbrush.
Mine is over 44 years old & still going strong.
I have 49 years on an H. Still looks like new.
I have a lot of airbrushes. The H is a very good airbrush. The best point I heard in this video is guys that insist on using these ultra fine airbrushes for modeling. I use a Patriot 105 with the heavy .8 needle nozzle and I can get super fine lines and details with it by adjusting psi and distance from the surface.
I'm not against using a SOTAR I own 2. Like I said I have a lot of airbrushes. But I seriously have to laugh when folks insist that finer is better.
Whenever I've been asked I've suggested a Paasche H and a Patriot 105 in your Arsenal.
Well, I've just bought a new airbrush, a cheap trigger type, with 0.3, 0.5 and 0.8mm needles nozzles. Hopefully this should handle metallics better (with the 0.5mm fitted) than my current H&S Ultra with a 0.4mm nozzle!
Well, I ended up sending the Chinese Clone trigger style airbrush back to Amazon, and bought a Mr Hobby Procon Boy PS290!
I agree most of the fancy airbrushes modelers are attracted to are too small for a lot of modeling. I got a Paasche VL-3 40 years ago, and it's still my only airbrush, though I've added a #1 tip to my kit. The VL is internal mix, siphon feed, and can put out a lot or a little paint, so it's quite versatile. It's rugged, easy to clean, and parts are readily available.
I've had a VL-3 since the mid-80's too. Also my only airbrush. It has served me well over the years. From way back as an artist & graphic designer to today as I've gotten back into the model building hobby.
I don't own any airbrush at all, and I would like to get into airbrushing but don't know where to start. Maybe I'm a Mr. F. Flintstone too!
Interesting. Im pretty new to this whole airbrush buisness, do you think 0.4 mm nozzle would be enough for priming 28/32mm scale figurines? Or should I get one of them "fire hoses"? :^)
It's not just nozzle size. For primer, you need material flow and good atomization. I would recommend the Iwata HP-TH, otherwise just use a spray can. The spray can will give you just as smooth a surface as the Paasche H.
@@scale-model-workshop wow, even for 28/32 mm scale figures? Basically everybody in the wargaming painting community is using regular airbrush for that, I thought I could use one as well...
Does it have to be Iwata, or any decent quality low pressure low volume spray gun with like 0.6-0.8mm nozzle will do? I live in EU and Japanese products are pretty expensive here while I probably could get a German or other EU-made spray gun for much cheaper, those should be decent quality too...
AS Paul says the Paasche H does not do a great job of atomizing which makes it fantastic at spatter, I use for my work in make-up sfx. Not much in my model making.
The Model H, the Badger 350, and the Binks Wren. I had them all and though aesthetically different, they were functionally the same brush. Junk. I thought I was moving up by getting a Paasche VL double action. I was wrong. it was junk too.
Actually i own a H&S Infinity and a Paasche H. They complement each other.
Well, you could lose that infernal Allen wrench. I replaced thar set screw with a thumb screw..no wrench needed.t
Yabba dabba doo! Shoutout to Fred Flintstone! 😀
I'll stick with my H for primer and base coating. I don't ask it to do things it's not meant to do.
First rule of any hobby should be having fun. If you're happy and having fun, then you're successful.
I also have used the H for many years, and will for many more years to come (hopefully). I do use a Iwata double action for finer work. One major issue I’ve had with the H is with Tamiya paint - it splatters and doesn’t flow well, unless you’re blasting it wide open. The double action works much better with Tamiya products IMHO
Use tamiya retarder along with their thinner.
Funny true intro.
I've used my Paasche H for over 20 years - I also have a Devilbiss Double Action.
The Paasche is so much easier to use and clean that the D/A hardly ever gets used.
Tony
Did you jest talk in a circle?
When complexity is simplified, it makes cents and you're not spending {wasting} model kit funds. Thanks!
Noooo, for my finer detailing, I use a good old BADGER 200G Single-action Gravity-feed Airbrush with an Ultra-Fine Needle- You'd be surprised what beautiful results one can achieve with "just" an old "DINOSAUR" like a Badger 200G... HUNDREDS of dollars SAVED!!!