If you feel like you're not getting a good seal on your nozzle, instead of Hulk cranking on it, use a little beeswax on the thread. Should seal it right up without the need to over-tighten. Air leaking at the join is common in a lot of airbrushes and beeswax is very often the solution.
The manual says to ensure the trigger is seated on the valve when reinstalling. I always check that its on the valve before threading the needle through it.
From time to time I get into the same issue with my Talon. On top of that with another Talon (almost new) for an unknown reason, I cannot shoot with higher pressure anymore. I have to turn the compressor to the maximum psi so I can get throughout the airbrush something close to 20 psi. I’ve dissasembled everything, cleaned…even replaced the parts…something happened inside the main body. It is not a compressor issue…I have seven airbrushes, I’ve tested. I’m not looking for an answer anymore, just wanted to share my experience since you brought it up and finally I’ve switched to Mr. Hobby and Iwatta airbrushes.
Anouther thought, the Trigger goes in one way, the rounded part of the Trigger goes to the Bowl/Cup, flat side, to the trigger tension rod, and your air valve spring may be somewhat collapsed!
@@markoharoldoronearmedpoohb7816 I know but that’s just not the problem. The nipple coming off the air valve is just to short allowing the trigger to slip off to easily bc of the natural play where the needle goes through it. Like I said from my understanding this is a new design people with older ones have a trigger similar the the iwata. Honestly if it did I probably use it over the iwata but my personal opinion is the new trigger air valve sucks and doesn’t work for me.
@@FuelsModels as far as I know, the Talon never had a Iwata type trigger, maybe your trigger is not made right, or your air valve assembly has a short stem, without seeing it and assessing it, it’s hard to diagnose! Just a thought, is the air valve screwed in all the way? I believe it takes an Allen wrench to check!
@@FuelsModels everyone has their go-to airbrush and I enjoy hearing about what everyone’s preferred airbrush to use it’s I like Paasche H if I am doing multiple bodies the same color or laying down clear on multiple bodies. My Iwata is for the small parts and my Grex is…well…it can do both the Iwata and Paasche can and I will use it from time to time when I want that pistol trigger feel.
so weird!! Ive put over 500 hours on my talon and never once had this happen... something I do is pour my cleaning solution (distilled h20, alcohol, cleaner and glycerin) directly into the trigger mech every time I switch colors.. just a squirt in there and blow it out. I dont know if that has anything to do with it or not but Ive never had a single problem.
Curious ... I purchased this model Paasache more than a year ago, and shortly after retuned it for a replacement because the air flow just trickled out of the brush. After a short time of using the replacement, the air flow seems restricted similar to the first one no matter the air PSI I apply to the brush. If I make a quick swap to another brand brush, air flow jets out. It's too bad to because I really liked the feel, weight and versatility of the Passache.
I've been using my Talon for over a year now and I too have had this happen to me a few times (less than 10 I'd say), but it literally takes less than a second to flick the hat on the trigger forward with my index finger and the bottom dimple sits right back down into place. Other than that the Talon is a great gun IMHO. I'm looking forward to trying an HP-CS one day, but I'll probably get a Raptor with a .25 as a detail gun. The Raptor and Talon share many of the same parts as a bonus.
Yeah I really do like the way it sprays but 90% of the time I do long paint session. Probably 3-4 hours at a time. And once the trigger gets tacky it’s over with. I’ve literally had to place the trigger back on 4&5 times just trying to paint one part. Thanks for watching
I am exactly the opposite from you Brian. My badgers are similar to the Passche where the trigger is solid and has the dimple. My old cheap Chinese master airbrushes have that floppy end on the trigger and it NEVER wants to set straight when I take the brush apart and put it back together. It's an absolute fight to get that floppy bit to go in straight. That being said with the needle in. my Badgers do not give enough upward travel to unseat the trigger from the air valve. So I don't have the issue you are talking about.
Justin if it wasn’t for that I’d was the hell out of the paasche but that’s nice to know about the badgers so if I ever get one I know I shouldn’t have a problem. I don’t really have a problem getting the trigger back in just gotta hold it in the right angle.
My Talon and Vision have a huge air leak when I press on the trigger ... What a shame ... Maybe be it is my fault and did something wrong ! Has anyone a solution ? Thanks
Guess you didn’t catch why I had to. The video I thought is pretty self explanatory. The cut out of the trigger isn’t deep enough for the nipple for it to stay. It comes out on its own. Bottom line the travel that is built into the trigger to allow the needle to go through is longer the the allowance built into the trigger and air valve assembly so it pulls up and off when my fingers get a little tacky either from sweat or a little paint.
My Paasche Vision has the same trigger, but it don't move like yours does. My Paasche VL and H has the extended piece on it. Also, put some beeswax around your nozzle an it will seal the air from leaking.
I use a Talon sometimes, and a raptor, and Harder&Steenbeck Chameleon. I ended up selling my Iwata Eclipse because it simply couldnt hang. I have never had an issue with my Paashe Talon or Raptor weather it is air leak or trigger not working. I take care of my stuff and watch what I am doing. Maybe you should send it back for another one incase its defected, they are lifetime warranty.
I have many hours with the Talons, never had this issue, then I was experimenting with trigger pressure, by backing off the trigger spring and the occurred, under normal trigger spring pressure the trigger shoe prevents this from happening. As for the nozzle leaking, I’ve never had that, but! I use bees wax on all threaded parts! The Paasche Talon has been a very robust and functional Airbrush, they have a robust needle and nozzle, as a very big bonus, parts are very, very reasonable, and easy to get. As a side note: the trigger has a front and rear, the rounded part of the trigger goes towards the Cup/Bowl, the square goes to the rear, we’re the trigger tension rod rides the square of the trigger!
I don’t back off on the trigger spring though. I believe why I have this problem is bc I generally paint for hours at a time. Trying to get almost everything painted for a model car I one session. If I get a little paint on my trigger finger that’s when I begin to have problems. With the iwata bc of the trigger design it’s not an issue.
@@FuelsModels Maybe clean your hands every now and then, I paint Fishing lures and change paint often, so my brush gets cleaned a lot, as a side note, the last several months I’ve been using a cheap Pointzero Airbrush that has a 2cc cup, .2mm needle, and a MAC valve, they are built very well, and very good balance, for under $25, it works great with paint for a .2mm nozzle. I now have and use 3 of them, I converted the other two, to a .3mm and a .5mm, They have impressed me for the price, they have the trigger like you Iwata, my only real complaints are, the nozzle are really, really, small in size, and the needles are very thin and flimsy, but those don’t hinder the performance, only in maintaining them!
@@FuelsModels You may have a weak spring or the tension rod is upside down, that flat piece on the tension bar has to have the long side up to lock the trigger in place.
@@FuelsModels If humans are involved anything can happen, springs are produced by the millions, I’m sure bad ones fall through cracks in manufacturing, the only time the trigger came out of the socket with me, spring tension too weak, and I had the trigger pressure plate upside down, even When I’ve dropped the Talon, the trigger stayed put, but I’ve killed needles😎
I hate the Revolution style trigger. The Eclipse has the same design. The H&S trigger has a ball similar to the Talon but without the dimple in the bottom. My favorite style is the one in my Iwata HP-C. My Creos PS-771 uses the same style as does the Iwata Micron.
@@FuelsModels Yeah I have an older Paasche double action and it has the pin trigger not the dimple. I don't know why they changed a design that was working.
If you feel like you're not getting a good seal on your nozzle, instead of Hulk cranking on it, use a little beeswax on the thread. Should seal it right up without the need to over-tighten. Air leaking at the join is common in a lot of airbrushes and beeswax is very often the solution.
To not know that, is an indication of a inexperienced airbrush user.
Nice insight on the Talon. Thanks for sharing.
You have definitely pointed out a valid flaw in the Passhe Talon. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks no problem
Thank you for this video. I am planning on getting airbrush equipment soon. Great video buddy I appreciate it. 👊👊👊👍👍✌️
No problem. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask my friend.
The manual says to ensure the trigger is seated on the valve when reinstalling. I always check that its on the valve before threading the needle through it.
Wish that was my problem
Ive painted like 50hrs with my talon and have never had this problem.
From time to time I get into the same issue with my Talon. On top of that with another Talon (almost new) for an unknown reason, I cannot shoot with higher pressure anymore. I have to turn the compressor to the maximum psi so I can get throughout the airbrush something close to 20 psi. I’ve dissasembled everything, cleaned…even replaced the parts…something happened inside the main body. It is not a compressor issue…I have seven airbrushes, I’ve tested. I’m not looking for an answer anymore, just wanted to share my experience since you brought it up and finally I’ve switched to Mr. Hobby and Iwatta airbrushes.
Anouther thought, the Trigger goes in one way, the rounded part of the Trigger goes to the Bowl/Cup, flat side, to the trigger tension rod, and your air valve spring may be somewhat collapsed!
Unfortunately the air valve spring hasn’t nothing to do with it
@@FuelsModels the air valve spring returns the air to the off position, it’s inside the air valve, the air valve is where the air connects!
@@markoharoldoronearmedpoohb7816 I know but that’s just not the problem. The nipple coming off the air valve is just to short allowing the trigger to slip off to easily bc of the natural play where the needle goes through it. Like I said from my understanding this is a new design people with older ones have a trigger similar the the iwata. Honestly if it did I probably use it over the iwata but my personal opinion is the new trigger air valve sucks and doesn’t work for me.
@@FuelsModels as far as I know, the Talon never had a Iwata type trigger, maybe your trigger is not made right, or your air valve assembly has a short stem, without seeing it and assessing it, it’s hard to diagnose! Just a thought, is the air valve screwed in all the way? I believe it takes an Allen wrench to check!
A very good flaw to know about. I swear by my Paasche H, Grex Tritium TG airbrush, and Iwata HP-CS.
I do like the H but my go to is my iwata revolution
@@FuelsModels everyone has their go-to airbrush and I enjoy hearing about what everyone’s preferred airbrush to use it’s I like Paasche H if I am doing multiple bodies the same color or laying down clear on multiple bodies. My Iwata is for the small parts and my Grex is…well…it can do both the Iwata and Paasche can and I will use it from time to time when I want that pistol trigger feel.
so weird!! Ive put over 500 hours on my talon and never once had this happen... something I do is pour my cleaning solution (distilled h20, alcohol, cleaner and glycerin) directly into the trigger mech every time I switch colors.. just a squirt in there and blow it out. I dont know if that has anything to do with it or not but Ive never had a single problem.
IDK if maybe you have an older one or not. They used to have a trigger similar to the iwata on the older version.
Curious ... I purchased this model Paasache more than a year ago, and shortly after retuned it for a replacement because the air flow just trickled out of the brush. After a short time of using the replacement, the air flow seems restricted similar to the first one no matter the air PSI I apply to the brush. If I make a quick swap to another brand brush, air flow jets out. It's too bad to because I really liked the feel, weight and versatility of the Passache.
I’ve never heard of that happening unless the airbrush is just that dirty
I've been using my Talon for over a year now and I too have had this happen to me a few times (less than 10 I'd say), but it literally takes less than a second to flick the hat on the trigger forward with my index finger and the bottom dimple sits right back down into place. Other than that the Talon is a great gun IMHO.
I'm looking forward to trying an HP-CS one day, but I'll probably get a Raptor with a .25 as a detail gun. The Raptor and Talon share many of the same parts as a bonus.
Yeah I really do like the way it sprays but 90% of the time I do long paint session. Probably 3-4 hours at a time. And once the trigger gets tacky it’s over with. I’ve literally had to place the trigger back on 4&5 times just trying to paint one part. Thanks for watching
I am exactly the opposite from you Brian. My badgers are similar to the Passche where the trigger is solid and has the dimple. My old cheap Chinese master airbrushes have that floppy end on the trigger and it NEVER wants to set straight when I take the brush apart and put it back together. It's an absolute fight to get that floppy bit to go in straight. That being said with the needle in. my Badgers do not give enough upward travel to unseat the trigger from the air valve. So I don't have the issue you are talking about.
Justin if it wasn’t for that I’d was the hell out of the paasche but that’s nice to know about the badgers so if I ever get one I know I shouldn’t have a problem. I don’t really have a problem getting the trigger back in just gotta hold it in the right angle.
My Talon and Vision have a huge air leak when I press on the trigger ... What a shame ... Maybe be it is my fault and did something wrong !
Has anyone a solution ?
Thanks
If you're in the middle of a session why would you remove the rocker assembly?
Guess you didn’t catch why I had to. The video I thought is pretty self explanatory. The cut out of the trigger isn’t deep enough for the nipple for it to stay. It comes out on its own. Bottom line the travel that is built into the trigger to allow the needle to go through is longer the the allowance built into the trigger and air valve assembly so it pulls up and off when my fingers get a little tacky either from sweat or a little paint.
My Paasche Vision has the same trigger, but it don't move like yours does. My Paasche VL and H has the extended piece on it. Also, put some beeswax around your nozzle an it will seal the air from leaking.
The H is a siphon feed so it’s completely different and the needle doesn’t go through the trigger. Is the VL?
@@FuelsModels yeah, the VL is dual action and the needle goes thru the trigger. And it is siphon feed as well.
I use a Talon sometimes, and a raptor, and Harder&Steenbeck Chameleon. I ended up selling my Iwata Eclipse because it simply couldnt hang. I have never had an issue with my Paashe Talon or Raptor weather it is air leak or trigger not working. I take care of my stuff and watch what I am doing. Maybe you should send it back for another one incase its defected, they are lifetime warranty.
Hi, I am thinking to buy this Paasche tg what u think? still, you use this and how it works after a year !!! still good no issue?
I can assume that you didn’t watch this video. The video is why I dislike the tg not like it. No I don’t use this airbrush at all.
Mine went to the trash can after too many trigger problems
Glad I wasn’t to only one
I have many hours with the Talons, never had this issue, then I was experimenting with trigger pressure, by backing off the trigger spring and the occurred, under normal trigger spring pressure the trigger shoe prevents this from happening. As for the nozzle leaking, I’ve never had that, but! I use bees wax on all threaded parts!
The Paasche Talon has been a very robust and functional Airbrush, they have a robust needle and nozzle, as a very big bonus, parts are very, very reasonable, and easy to get.
As a side note: the trigger has a front and rear, the rounded part of the trigger goes towards the Cup/Bowl, the square goes to the rear, we’re the trigger tension rod rides the square of the trigger!
I don’t back off on the trigger spring though. I believe why I have this problem is bc I generally paint for hours at a time. Trying to get almost everything painted for a model car I one session. If I get a little paint on my trigger finger that’s when I begin to have problems. With the iwata bc of the trigger design it’s not an issue.
@@FuelsModels
Maybe clean your hands every now and then, I paint Fishing lures and change paint often, so my brush gets cleaned a lot, as a side note, the last several months I’ve been using a cheap Pointzero Airbrush that has a 2cc cup, .2mm needle, and a MAC valve, they are built very well, and very good balance, for under $25, it works great with paint for a .2mm nozzle. I now have and use 3 of them, I converted the other two, to a .3mm and a .5mm,
They have impressed me for the price, they have the trigger like you Iwata, my only real complaints are, the nozzle are really, really, small in size, and the needles are very thin and flimsy, but those don’t hinder the performance, only in maintaining them!
@@FuelsModels
You may have a weak spring or the tension rod is upside down, that flat piece on the tension bar has to have the long side up to lock the trigger in place.
If the spring is weak it’s been weak since the day it was purchased.
@@FuelsModels
If humans are involved anything can happen, springs are produced by the millions, I’m sure bad ones fall through cracks in manufacturing, the only time the trigger came out of the socket with me, spring tension too weak, and I had the trigger pressure plate upside down, even When I’ve dropped the Talon, the trigger stayed put, but I’ve killed needles😎
I hate the Revolution style trigger. The Eclipse has the same design. The H&S trigger has a ball similar to the Talon but without the dimple in the bottom. My favorite style is the one in my Iwata HP-C. My Creos PS-771 uses the same style as does the Iwata Micron.
Not familiar with the Talon. I have a Paasche H and it has the trigger like the Iwata and I love it.
The H is a single action airbrush both of these are double action. I do have an H but just haven’t used it much.
@@FuelsModels Yeah I have an older Paasche double action and it has the pin trigger not the dimple. I don't know why they changed a design that was working.
👍
Tighten your spring!
Has nothing to do with the springs.