Subscriber Questions About Paasche Airbrushes
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- Опубліковано 22 січ 2017
- A video addressing some questions and problems a couple of subscribers had concerning Paasche airbrushes. I hope this helps anyone who has some of these same issues. Thanks for watching and subbing.
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Great vid Gary! Wonderful info!
Thanks Paul!
Very good info Gary. Thank you very much.
Thanks Rick. I appreciate it brother.
Very detailed information, nicely explained, and definitely useful...
Thank you Tommy. Just trying to help a few folks avoid a headache or two. Appreciate you watching brother!
You sure know your airbrushes!! Thanks for the info Gary!
Thanks Kenny. Appreciate it buddy!
Thanks for keeping the airbrush information coming Gary, now, if I could just get you into my shop to paint my bodies, all would be good. Cheers brother.
Thanks for the kind words Wayne. You don't need me to paint your models. You are turning out awesome paint work yourself brother. Appreciate you watching!
Thanks Gary, I think the one element of airbrushing that contributes to a successful paint job is being comfortable with your tools. There is always a big learning curve with new tools and practice, practice and more practice is key to becoming comfortable with your airbrush. Cheers
You are correct Wayne. Doesn't matter whether you have $50 gun or a $500 gun....if you're not comfortable with it, you're not going to turn out good work.
thanks for your explanation in regards to a tankless compressor and the H airbrush. I have a VL and an H. I think that may be the issue with some results I have been having with the H. great info.
Thanks brother!
@@mcmodelworks i ended up buying the paasche compressor, the D3000R. It's been awesome.
Sounds good! Hope it works out well!
Great overview! I've had my original VL's (bought the first, a VLS in '92, and a second VL about a year later), and recently picked up a couple of Talons - The TG model, like you have there, and the TS. Great to have a siphon feed version if you need a larger reservoir for bigger paint jobs. I love that the same parts fit across the line. I've upgraded both my Talons with the Vision's trigger (TGX-106), as the stock one (TAL-37) just didn't feel right with that big dimple in the center. I've also since blinged out my Talon TG with the Vision's Handle and Paint Cap. It looks sharp! and different - I like to be different. :) The best part about these brushes is definitely the parts interchangeability. As a matter of fact, I was able to just buy the TS as a "brush only" version (minus a needle/nozzle) for a great price, since I already had a set to install in it.
Just to share it here in detail (to supplement the great info you shared here), and as you mentioned, the old Paasche line used a #1-3-5 numbering system, where the needles (at least on the VL's) were .55, .74, and 1.05mm in size, respectively. The Talon line also uses a numbering system (#0-1-2-3), and their sizes are .20, .25, .38, and .66. The most important things you need to know about the Talon needles in particular are: a) each component (needle, nozzle, aircap) has notches on it, according to its size. You'll find corresponding grooves on the base of the needle (like the old VL's), grooves on the flat part of the aircap just above the knurled ring, and notches on one of the rounded corners of the nozzle. b) While the #0 uses a #0 nozzle, it does NOT have its own aircap - you simply use the #1 aircap with the #0 nozzle/needle. I have a classic VL, and I believe that when Passche updated the VL line in the early 2000's they redesigned the aircaps to a similar approach by adopting an aircap for each needle/nozzle, instead of just swapping crowns with a common aircap. Anyway, I hope this information helps anyone out there!
Thanks for watching brother.
Very good info brother.. thank you for sharing
Thanks brother. Much appreciated!
Excellent discussion of the needle size and nomenclature of the Paasche airbrushes. The #1,#3,#5 names of the H and SI are easily confused with mm orifice naming convention of double action airbrushes.
I am curious does the SI lay down a more uniform spray due in to the internal mix versus the H design? I understand many modellers use the H for clear, base and prime coats. Could one use the SI for clear, base and prime coats and get “better" atomization versus the H. Why would one prefer external mix of the H to the internal mix of the SI?
Thanks
Thanks Gary, the Paasche products are available in Canada on Amazon.ca for reasonable prices and have all the parts and accessories available. I've been looking at the Talon but hesitate on having to work with those long needles, etc. in the double action models. Maybe one day.
Yeah. It's a little different, but you get used to it. If I had to get rid of all my guns but one, the Paasche H would be the one I would keep.....hands down. Thanks for watching brother.
Great video, thank you. My VLs have been working fine for years. I don't see why so many people hate on the Vision and the Talon. From what I've seen, they are very economical choices for the performance.
Very true. Almost all of my body painting work is done with either the Paasche H or the Vision. I also use guns by GSI Creos / Mr. Hobby. Great guns for the price as well and made in the same factory where Iwatas are made. Thanks for watching brother.
@@mcmodelworks The Paasche Talon should be waiting at the Fed Ex store tomorrow afternoon. Certainly looking forward to it! Thank you for the info on the Talon and the sizing. I can see where that could confuse folks and may account for some of the Talon's poor "handling" reviews online.
I like my talon but I’m having problems with the Akron in the down position befor I pull back for paint paint comes out so I have to reset I find that the spring for the trigger I have to have it tight I can’t adjust it if I do paint comes out with air on in down position and sometimes I tighten the spring and that will fix for a while then it screws up again I don’t get it is it my trigger valve ?
Good stuff buddy! I still use my single action H after we talked a while back, I love it... Use it for everything, Thanks Gary...... Mike(Whitey).
Thank you Mike. The H is about all a automotive builder needs. You just can't hurt it with normal use.
Yup! I shoot primer, any kind of paint, even nail polish! I keep her nice and clean and she just keeps on spraying, I love it! Thank you Gary for talking me into buying it!
Good video. With the Paasche H you can control how much paint comes out by turning the needle in and out. Open it all the way you get a wide spray pattern by turning it in you will get a mist of paint and anything in between.
Yeah. I've had Paasche H guns for about 10 years. They have served me well. Thanks for watching.
I've been researching gravity fed internally mixed airbrushes and have narrowed it down to two... the Badger Patriot 105 with .5mm needle and Paasche Talon with .38. A little background... I'm building mostly 1/24 model cars and perhaps the odd sailing ship so I don't need a super fine nor a super wide spraying pattern. I've heard some issues with the Paasche specifically the super sensitive trigger and the inability to make super fine adjustments to the paint volume. I've heard that past halfway it's full on paint.... but then I've heard of people who love the Paasche Talon. The Badger has an exposed nozzle which can easily get damaged...but then again I'm not doing super fine lines where I need super low pressure and paint volume and super close to my work. What's your opinion on a good all-round airbrush. I'd appreciate your feedback. Thank you.
Been using the Talon for years & it's a great all around workhorse of an AB...LEBIII
Zen Modeling Yep. Pretty good gun. I use my Vision now for most of my body spraying and my Badgers for most of the other stuff.
What do you think about the Passche VLST PRO?
Thank you for sharing the difference between the guns brother take care brother
Thanks brother Cliff. Hope you are well my friend.
I just bought it recently but I don´t use it yet
Thank you very informative !
Thanks for watching!
Thanks I’m new to airbrushing and have been looking at the talon.
It's a pretty good gun. Very versitale. You can spray large or small depending on the needle / nozzle set up that you have.
mc model works I’m going to use it airbrush fishing lures.
thanks for the info thats my kind of music
Thanks brother. Nothing like the classics! :)
Need assistance man, do you recommend the Paasche H series for basic modeling? Wide coating etc
Duo 20 Yes sir, I certainly do! I tell everyone that if I could only have one airbrush for modeling, the Paasche H would be the one. You can do everything except for fine detail work, it's easy to clean and not many parts to break down. There is also three different needle / nozzle / air cap combos available that are easy to obtain. Also, very cheap to buy. All around great airbrush.
Thank you for the tutorial. I am new to airbrushing. I have a Masters duel action airbrush that came with three needle sizes. (0.1, 0.3, 0.5 mm) Been using the one that came in the airbrush. 0.3mm. I have been using 20 psi and have had trouble with the paint drying at the nozzle of the airbrush if I stop painting for about a minute. Also the flow rate seems low. When I clean the airbrush with cleaner it sprays great like any spray can. Am I using to low of pressure, or is the needle too small for general painting, or both? I have been using Testors Aztec paint and Model Masters acrylic paint, which should not need to be thinned.
Two things......first of all, I would put in the
.5 mm needle / nozzle setup .......especially for the Testors Aztek paint. They recommend 30 psi for their paint. Overall, I would not shoot the Aztek or the Model Master acrylic at less than 28 to 30 pounds. You can thin either one of those paints, but since you are new to airbrushing, I would suggest you use their thinner unless you feel comfortable making you own thinner. There are several videos on You Tube regarding home brew thinners. Is the Aztek paints metallic / pearls? If they are , that is part of the problem of low flow. Those flakes in the pearls and metallics can really clog a nozzle. I never shoot a metallic or pearl at less than .5 mm or less than at least 30 pounds. Most of what I shoot as far as body color is in the 35 to 38 pound range. Hope this helps some. Let me know how it goes.
@@mcmodelworks Thank you. That sounds logical. Thanks for the tips.
@@mcmodelworks I think I figured out why it appears that my airbrush stops spraying after a first coat. First I put the .5 mm tip and nozzle setup on my airbrush. When I tried it nothing came out including air. Upon close inspection the nozzle part was not cut right. As a result no air could get to the tip. I ground it out and than it worked fine. Next I sprayed a coat and than when I went to do the next coat it was clogged. I decided to do some practice with the airbrush and found out that when I kept the cover off the cup the airbrush sprayed fine. I would let the airbrush sit for a minute as if between coats and it would spray fine again. It appears that the little breather hole in the cup lid must not have been big enough. So I made the hole bigger. Everything seems to work fine now. I can spray Testors Aztec paint right out of the bottle with no thinning.
So when using the h it is best to run the #3 nozzle set up or #1 for primer and base coats with compressor with or without tank? And at what psi
I almost always use the #3 setup in the H. I use the #1 setup in the Paasche SI due to the fact that it seems to push more at the same air pressure. I also almost always shoot at 30 psi working air pressure. That means that my regulator is usually set at about 32 pounds because you have about a 2 pound drop off from the compressor to the airbrush, so I set it at 32 in order to run at 30 pounds line pressure.
Great,just wanted to be sure
will avl-227-1tip needle an airecap work in a millennium airbrush
I don't think so. I have never owned an AI or a milenium.
Actually the Talon needles, nozzles and aircaps are numbered 1, 2, and 3. 1= 0.25mm, 2 = 0.38mm and 3 = 0.66mm. There is also a size 0 for the Talon that is 0.2mm. You must use all 3 pieces (needle, nozzle and aircap) with matching numbers.
Yes, I know
I have the Talon also and I can't get enough paint to come out of it. What are your thoughts. Thanks ???
My first thought is are you thinning your paint properly? What about air pressure.....how much are you using? What type of paint are you using? What needle / nozzle combo do you have installed? Lots of factors involved when you're not getring enough paint out of you gun. What is your subject matter that you're painting btw?
Little extra information because you mentioned the VL, but suggested that you don't know it as well as the others. The VL is indeed dual action and siphon feed, but it uses the same numbering system for its tips and needles as the H and SI do. In fact, I suspect that it's really very similar to the SI, but with dual action. Nice explanation, I hope I've added to its usefulness.
Thanks for your contribution. I appreciate you watching.
Don't take this the wrong way, I am looking for info on these airbrushes, but it is very hard to follow along when you interrupt yourself when answering questions. One way to solve it would be to make sections in the vid. Start by explaining how they work then go to the questions
Wow, I found this video and this is exactly what is happening with my Paasche H and compressor. The compressor is about 20 years old and has no trap or regulator so I purchased them today and set it up but the pressure dropped when I started spraying. Which compressor would you recommend for the H? I strictly do car models. Thanks mc
Harbor Freight has some decent ones for about $80 (last time I checked). They are mostly "Air On Demand" compressors, which simply means that they don't have a tank. They just provide air as you press or squeeze the trigger on the airbrush based on you pressure setting. The longer you hold the trigger down (or back) as the case may be, the lower the pressure drops. Most of the time, that's not a big deal unless you have an airbrush with a large needle/nozzle combo, like a .5mm or larger. Then the pressure is going to drop quickly and will effect your spray pattern. I have one , but only keep it as a backup. The best ones are the ones with a tank that hold a certain amount of air and they keep pressure the same until the tank level drops off and then the compressor kicks in. They keep constant pressure and make for a better spray pattern in my opinion.
@@mcmodelworks Yes, I agree the ones with the tank are best. I was thinking of the California air ones with a 2 or 4 gallon tank. Also maybe a Husky from Home Depot. Thanks for your help, you are very knowledgable!
Enamel paint and I have the pressure around 15 psi. And the needle is the 1 that came in the airbrush
Unless you are thinning the paint to almost water consistency, 15 pounds sound awfully low....especially for enamel paint. I would suggest increasing you psi to at least 20 to 25 pounds and see what happens. Make sure you don't have any blockages in the area where the needle and nozzle are located. Double check for proper assembly of the parts. You could have something assembled wrong from the factory. If it continues and you can't figure it out, shoot Paasche an e-mail. They have pretty good customer service.
Hey I was just wondering if you could tell me what the name of the storage bin that you have you paints in is called or where you got it from???
I got that at Home Depot I believe. It has nine drawers the size of the ones with the paint in them. Above those, it has 30 smaller drawers that are half the size of the nine larger ones. Very handy to have. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the info and this video was very helpful and informative about the different air brushes...
So what type of compressor do you use for the Talon and the Vision
Lucky 13 Styrene Speedshop I have gone to a TCP Global compressor with a tank. I still have my Central Pneumatic tankless compressor for backup.
Does the tankless compressor work fine with those?
Lucky 13 Styrene Speedshop. Yes. The only issue is when you use the .66mm nozzle and needle setup. You have to keep an eye on you pressure as you're spraying and give the compressor a chance to keep the pressure up. The .66mm setup uses a lot of air and paint, so the pressure will drop off quickly if you keep a lot of paint an air going through the gun without letting the air pressure stay up with you. It's not a big deal. You will get used to it the more you spray with it. The compressor with the tank works hard as well when I use the .66mm setup. These little hobby compressors only put out about
.80cfm of air and you really need one that puts out at least 1.0 cfm or higher , but the smaller will be fine if you baby it a little.
I guess all I ever get are the lemons with this company. First airbrush I ever bought was a cumbersome VL that I could never get to work right. Gave it away and bought an Iwata. Now own three or four of them and a Harder and Steinbeck. Decided to give Paasche another try and what do you know. Another lemon. I've got air bubbling in the cup and it stops spraying after a couple of seconds if you can get any paint out of it at all. I've tried all the tricks but still bubbling. I've never had to work on an Iwata straight out of the box. It's a Vision. Any ideas?
Sorry to hear about your problems with Paasche John. I guess I have been lucky. I have never had an issue with any of their stuff. Two things you can check / do on the bubbling in the cup with the Vision. Make sure the brass nozzle that screws in to the threads at the end of the gun isn't split or cracked slightly. I have heard of them coming from the factory split / cracked. Spread a little drop of dish detergent all around the nozzle and spray some water out of the cup. If there is a crack, even a slight one, the detergent will bubble after water comes in contact. That will cause bubbles in the cup. The other thing to do if that isn't the issue is to get some chapstick or beeswax and spread over the threads where the air cap screws on over the nozzle. Maybe even put a little on the nozzle threads. That will seal up around those threads and should stop bubbles unless there is a really bad fit at the threaded parts. After that, shoot an e-mail to Paasche customer service and let them know you what your issue is. They will probably fix you up with new parts or maybe a replacement gun depending on how old it is. Hope this helps brother. Let me know how it comes out.
The VL is really bulletproof and many high end graphic artists use it. I've used the Vl/VLST/VLST PRO for years. What kind of pressure are you using? Do your needles match your caps, etc.?
OK. Thanks for your time. Are you on Facebook ??
Nice video
Thanks James
Good video info. greetings from JP. scales
Thanks JP. Appreciate it!
looking forward on your next project. learning as I go with my builds
Good information and I did not have to pay for it
Thanks brother! Free info is always a good thing! :)
que tal el paasche vision ?
juan david Restrepo La visión de Paasche es un aerógrafo excepcional. Es uno de mis mejores aerógrafos. Lo uso para la pintura del cuerpo. Es mi ir al aerógrafo para los caramelos
y perlas. Viene con una tapa del ventilador para ancho
incluso spray. ¡ Gracias por ver a Brother!
mc model works muchas gracias. el paasche vision con cual aerografo de iwata se puede comparar?
juan david Restrepo Yo diría que mucho como el HP-TH cuando la aguja y la boquilla m se utiliza con la tapa del ventilador. Si se instala la aguja de .25 mm y la boquilla, entonces es muy parecido a la HP-C Plus. Tengo el HP-C Plus y el Eclipse también.