It’s a good idea to pry the crankshaft all the way forward and all the way backward once when the rear main bearing cap bolts are snug but before torquing them. This makes sure the bearing thrust surfaces are pushed into the same plane with each other instead of one being slightly offset. Even though the bearings fit tightly into the cap, the only thing aligning the cap forward and rearward is the loose fit of the bolts inside the cap holes. It’s possible for them to not be aligned unless you force them into alignment before torquing down and clamping it in place.
We have a whole separate video about that in the series playlist. Here’s the link to the video: How To Use Plastigage To Measure Your Crankshaft Main Bearing Oil Clearances - Burnout Tutorials ua-cam.com/video/J4eMvQXO1yo/v-deo.html
great video i am planning to build one as well, only its a 305, question about the crankshaft i've got a new one from te box do i need to balance this on or can i start building. block is bored over 0.030 . everything will be new on it only the piston arms are beeing used again and the crankshaft bearings. so if any one can advise i woult be glad.
I had my chvey 350 rebuilt no when I try to start it the starter grinds . I replaced starter and flywheel . The only thing I could think of is a warped crank. What's your thoughts.. ty
Hard to say without actually seeing it or hearing it, but sometimes if you accidentally flip the wires on the solenoid then the starter doesn’t fully engage with the flexplate.
Very good video bud first time I seen it so just let you know very good can I ask you a question where did you get that crank and bolts at is that a stock crank if you could please give me some information on it I'd really appreciate it I have a 350 four bolt main that I'm going to do about a minute on So if you could please let me know thank you very much
I got this exact bottom end kit from Summit Racing. This one isn't available at the moment, but you can find one similar that will work. They have tons of options at Summit. If you're also looking for a top end kit or anything else let me know and I can recommend the stuff that I got myself.
I'm rebuilding a 350, single rear seal, I bought a new timing chain and gears from Summit Racing, they recommended an Edelbrock 7802, but when it arrived the main cog has a smaller diameter and the chain looks lighter. Do you think it's the correct one? www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7802
Yep. It looks good to me. The larger gear bolts on to the front of the camshaft, and the inner diameter of the hole doesn't really matter because nothing goes through it. Whereas the smaller gear goes on the crankshaft, so that hole has to fit over the shaft sticking out of the front of the crankshaft. The chain should be perfectly fine as well.
@@TheBurnoutShow The diameter of both cogs is about 25% smaller, but I guess it's the proportion that's important to keep the sync. Chain is also much lighter than the original.
It’s a good idea to pry the crankshaft all the way forward and all the way backward once when the rear main bearing cap bolts are snug but before torquing them. This makes sure the bearing thrust surfaces are pushed into the same plane with each other instead of one being slightly offset. Even though the bearings fit tightly into the cap, the only thing aligning the cap forward and rearward is the loose fit of the bolts inside the cap holes. It’s possible for them to not be aligned unless you force them into alignment before torquing down and clamping it in place.
Great video for first timers like me! Cheers!
You are a god send. I dont know how your channel isnt blowing up
Best compliment I’ve ever received. Thank you.
Nice explanation
HEY, thank you for this video. What’s the pack of seals you got? What brand or pack did you buy
Great Video thank you
Im curious why bearing clearance wasn't mentioned or talked about. using Plastigage ?
We have a whole separate video about that in the series playlist. Here’s the link to the video: How To Use Plastigage To Measure Your Crankshaft Main Bearing Oil Clearances - Burnout Tutorials
ua-cam.com/video/J4eMvQXO1yo/v-deo.html
great video i am planning to build one as well, only its a 305, question about the crankshaft i've got a new one from te box do i need to balance this on or can i start building. block is bored over 0.030 . everything will be new on it only the piston arms are beeing used again and the crankshaft bearings.
so if any one can advise i woult be glad.
I was in the process of rebuilding my 1943 Ford bronco with a 2019 Nissan Altima engine, my crankshaft was giving me a hard time though. Good tutorial
Anytime bro bro!
1943 Bronco eh?
I had my chvey 350 rebuilt no when I try to start it the starter grinds . I replaced starter and flywheel . The only thing I could think of is a warped crank. What's your thoughts.. ty
Hard to say without actually seeing it or hearing it, but sometimes if you accidentally flip the wires on the solenoid then the starter doesn’t fully engage with the flexplate.
Very good video bud first time I seen it so just let you know very good can I ask you a question where did you get that crank and bolts at is that a stock crank if you could please give me some information on it I'd really appreciate it I have a 350 four bolt main that I'm going to do about a minute on So if you could please let me know thank you very much
I got this exact bottom end kit from Summit Racing. This one isn't available at the moment, but you can find one similar that will work. They have tons of options at Summit. If you're also looking for a top end kit or anything else let me know and I can recommend the stuff that I got myself.
👍🏾😎🏁🏁🏁
I'm rebuilding a 350, single rear seal, I bought a new timing chain and gears from Summit Racing, they recommended an Edelbrock 7802, but when it arrived the main cog has a smaller diameter and the chain looks lighter. Do you think it's the correct one? www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7802
Yep. It looks good to me. The larger gear bolts on to the front of the camshaft, and the inner diameter of the hole doesn't really matter because nothing goes through it. Whereas the smaller gear goes on the crankshaft, so that hole has to fit over the shaft sticking out of the front of the crankshaft. The chain should be perfectly fine as well.
@@TheBurnoutShow The diameter of both cogs is about 25% smaller, but I guess it's the proportion that's important to keep the sync. Chain is also much lighter than the original.