Engine Building 101 How To Install A Crankshaft
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- Engine Building: Crankshaft Installation, How To
In this video I show you how to install a crankshaft in a small block Chevy. The basics are the same for all engines. This is a 1968 327 block with large mains. This motor will be for sell shortly.
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The Right Way to Do It! At last someone that understands how and why to set the caps and how to properly torque the bolts. Good video!!!!!!!
Dave L you may be my biggest fan at this point lol thanks Dave
Thanks Zak. Excellent video. Very helpful and easy to follow.
Good job I hope my inline chevy 6cyl turns out like yours GREAT VIDEO Thanks William Orange county, ca.
I’m sure it will, just take your time and do it right.
on the rear main seal,the seal says flywheel side thought i would point that out, just installed my crank last night nice video
Brother I could watch u build a sbc over and over. Just something about how u speak and teach it's not boring even though I've done this myself half a dz times and watched this video that many it's still interesting and keeps me asking for the next part or video! Keep it up bro
I’m not sure why I’m just seeing some of these comments but that’s what I needed to see today brother thank you.
I got the same impression. Very watchable.😀
Keep up the good work sir
Amazing video made by an amazing man
What’s up Zak! It’s Zack with Skratz!!
What’s up!
What did you use to clean the journals bearings and cylinder walls?
If I heard you correctly you said you put the plastigage on the bearings in the block? Thats not correct,when you put the crank in it'll flatten the plastigage giving a false reading.
The crank needs to be laying in the block and the plastigage placed on top of the journal,then the cap installed and torqued. this gives you the actual clearance. Same with the rods,they need to be up tight to the journal and the cap torqued down to get the actual clearance.
Thank you
Can you check end float without gauge cheers
i assume you me end play?
@@ZaksMuscleMotors yes sorry buddy
You can half ass it with feeler gauges but it’s not the most accurate way. Definitely get a gauge. You can use the harbor freight ones and have $35 or so in it
Should have shown in great detail with close up's of how to get real main seal on rear cap to line up with lower half in block and where ( are not ) to put RTV around rear main cap as seal or block register to get solid sealing. This question is what I was looking to find out if I clock the rear seal .
Lol I literally explained and showed all that go back and watch it again.
@@ZaksMuscleMotors You did on the block side yes , but nothing on the cap side as you just put it on not showing where you put any sealer on the cap side or how the cap slips into the groove of the block . Many are saying when they put the cap on it pushes the seal back to none clocked position level with the block . That is what is still unclear no matter how many times I watch it . .
I just put my 283 crank in but it doesnt turn that easy .....all the bearings had proper clearance but the lucas product i used might be a bit sticky . But it really turns smooth but not that loose
What’s your clearance?
Seems like end play should have been done before final torque
Right….. cause a final torque wouldn’t affect it at all…
Do I have to use my stock windage tray or can I eliminate it and replace the longer bolts for it with bolts like the others so they are like this 1
a windage tray is absolutely a benefit,it allows the oil to not rob horsepower by staying in the pan and not being slung around the engine.
Hey man im 17 rebuilding my first d15b6 honda engine and im using a really shitty torque wrench that doesnt click its like a needle and I dont feel its accurate. When I do my second pass of 40lbs my crank locks up. I loosened it up and tried again and it didnt lock up but it wasnt as smooth as my 20lb pass. Should I get a new torque wrench or is there something wrong with my crank?
ZenTech give me a call. 7655247362
Is the tourqe specs same on four bolt main.. or is inner and outer bolts different
Most of the time 99% they will be more in the inner and less on the outer
@@ZaksMuscleMotors 70 inner 65 outter..
Mine spins freely by hand but doesn't spin like yours in the end, should it spin like that? My clearances were between .0015-.002-Mines a 95 1pc seal if that makes a difference
?
James I’m sorry I didn’t see this sooner. I’m sure it’s too late now, but it’s ok as long as you have at least 1.5 thou clearance and it spins free, doesn’t have to spin forever. The one in the camaro doesn’t spin like this one either
So you don't have to set the thrust bearing?
After installing the crankshaft you would then check your thrust by measuring the end play
I have a question maybe you can help me my crankshaft is installed in my small-block 283 it's spins but not freely what could be the problem
Marco Camacho how tight is it? Can you send me a video?
Would it be okay to send a video tomorrow sometime
Yes that’s fine
What bolt size did you use
What bolt are you referring to?
@@ZaksMuscleMotors I Actually found the bolt sir. But I have one more question . I did everything you did step by step on the video. And it’s a brand new crankshaft ( not remanufactured) and brand new bearing (stock ) and it spends nice . But not like with a little twirl. Like if I put a towel and I vice grip on the thought I can move it with my pinkie. I used Assembly lube and torqued all the bolts down . Do u think it just needs time to break in
I will be happy to answer your questions for you but please text me at 765-524-7362 as I do not get notifications most of the time on here.
I thought you were supposed to tighten those down in a pattern
Jim Bowling the way it is done here is correct.
Sweeeet😎
Why can’t you touch the surface of the bearings with your bare hand? I’m a car noob and I’m barely learning.
People do and 99% of them won’t have issues. But I try my best to keep all the oils from my hands off of them because the oils from your body are acidic and if left to sit on the bearing surface can cause pitting dry spots on the bearings and maybe pitting over time.
@@ZaksMuscleMotors Thank you for the info
You’re welcome
8:20 ..... he didnt have the other half of the rear main crank seal inserted in the thrust bearing cap. o_0
You can see it. You obviously didn’t pay attention to the fact that I offset it and it won’t show on one side. But hey, A for effort lol.
@@ZaksMuscleMotors Yes, i know its offset, the the seal facing you was above the crank deck and the opposite side is below, meaning when you put the bearing cap on, the other side of the offset seal should have been showing thats facing the camera, its bright blue in color, cant miss it, but i saw nothing.
You may not have seen it cause it didn’t stick out much. When I set it, it moved where it needed to be. I can assure you it is there, this motor still runs today. Which would be very unlikely if that rear seal was missing. That would be a rather noticeable leak.
Geat video i liked and subbed i would like to follow u on facebook whats the name of your group or page
Zaks Muscle Motors
@@ZaksMuscleMotors hey Zach is it possible for me to drop the crankshaft with the engine in the car from underneath I already have the head off to vehicle and I took the piston in the connecting rods out because I needed new rod bearings but since I'm doing the rod bearing shouldn't I do the main bearings as well so I was thinking can I pull that crankshaft through the bottom if I make sure I do it very carefully and safely
Amber Arpino you can, but it’s a pain. Still have to take the trans off as well.
Lost my interest the second he said “plasti-gauge”.
I’ll pray you find it. I hate loosing shit
Did u set the thrust bearing? i didnt see that.