I used the spiral method and the rings are 1/10" wider than the piston. I guess they'll squeeze in to the cylinder, but is that okay? The engine 4.03 overbore, the rings the same. Closed up they match the original rings, the compression rings have zero gap when installed. Out of the packet they are all with a 1/10th gap, so I guess they close up when pushed in by the cylinder right?
Yeah, they should get pushed in and be closer when in the cylinder, but there should still be a gap in the ring for when it expands due to heat from the engine running. You can find what that gap should be by googling something like "*your manufacturer* ring gap chart"
@@TheBurnoutShow that's worrying, the block was replaced by a previous owner so no idea what they did. I read that the guide is 0.004-inch per inch of bore size for a normally aspirated engine, so the gap should be 0.016"
@@robc3863 that’s a pretty standard gap size for the top compression ring. Did you go through all the steps in this video (inserting the ring into the cylinder, using a feeler gauge to check the gap size, etc)? The rings are supposed to come oversized a bit so that you can file them down to the proper gap size. We do that because if the gaps are too small then the rings don’t have any room to expand with the heat and then they can break and/or have way too much friction and cause damage in your cylinder, or if the gaps are too big then it can cause a loss of power due to compression leaking and then overall performance and reliability decreases. And basically they design them a bit bigger to be filed down because everyone’s bore is slightly different. There’s too much range in the tolerances of the cylinder bores so they make it them slightly big so that they can be customized to the right size for everyone.
![🗜️ How to File Piston Ring Gaps [FREE LESSON]](/img/n.gif)
Perfect
I think when I was rebuilding my 1912 Ford Mustang, I put the pistons on the wrong grove. Helpful video as always. -1 for not uploading on a Saturday
I used the spiral method and the rings are 1/10" wider than the piston. I guess they'll squeeze in to the cylinder, but is that okay? The engine 4.03 overbore, the rings the same. Closed up they match the original rings, the compression rings have zero gap when installed. Out of the packet they are all with a 1/10th gap, so I guess they close up when pushed in by the cylinder right?
Yeah, they should get pushed in and be closer when in the cylinder, but there should still be a gap in the ring for when it expands due to heat from the engine running. You can find what that gap should be by googling something like "*your manufacturer* ring gap chart"
@@TheBurnoutShow that's worrying, the block was replaced by a previous owner so no idea what they did. I read that the guide is 0.004-inch per inch of bore size for a normally aspirated engine, so the gap should be 0.016"
@@robc3863 that’s a pretty standard gap size for the top compression ring. Did you go through all the steps in this video (inserting the ring into the cylinder, using a feeler gauge to check the gap size, etc)? The rings are supposed to come oversized a bit so that you can file them down to the proper gap size. We do that because if the gaps are too small then the rings don’t have any room to expand with the heat and then they can break and/or have way too much friction and cause damage in your cylinder, or if the gaps are too big then it can cause a loss of power due to compression leaking and then overall performance and reliability decreases. And basically they design them a bit bigger to be filed down because everyone’s bore is slightly different. There’s too much range in the tolerances of the cylinder bores so they make it them slightly big so that they can be customized to the right size for everyone.
Whoops, wrong account.
@@ryantarpey7179 yep thanks, think I've got the process from the video, was nice n clear