How To: Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Maytag Drum Felt Seal
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- How To Replace: Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Maytag Drum Felt Seal 239087 www.appliancepa...
Symptoms: Clothes have brown markes on them or heat escaping from rear of dryer drum.
Tools: Phillips and Flathead screwdriver, Putty knife, 5/16" nutdriver
This Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Maytag made Dryer Drum Felt Seal replaces the following older part numbers on Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Sears, and Kenmore Dryers: 239087VP, 3290, 337449, 337499, 4319323, 8066085, DE737, K34-916.
Buy the new Dryer Drum Felt Seal 239087 here: www.appliancepa...
Most orders delivered in 2 business days or less.
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I know I'm late but these were the best instructions ever. I'm done with the chore and considered a superhero in my home. Probably saved about $300. 👊🏾
LoL! My favorite part is not getting suckered by the repair man. These old type dryers are great! I have an old style top load washer too, both are easy to work on. Fixed them both many times.
Maybe this has already been mentioned but I did this to remove the gasket + adhesive in one step: Do not remove the original gasket--leave in place and spray brake cleaner and/or soak it with hand sanitizer. Do this about 2-3 time and saturate the felt while its attached to the drum. Leave it 1-2 hours and go back and pull off the felt gasket--90% of the adhesive residue will come with it.
Thank you for posting this video. I had a problem with my dryer, I called the mechanic, who said," this is expensive, there is a lot of work to do". I watched this video, I thought, I can do this. I ordered the part from your company. it arrived just like the original. I fixed it, by watching your video.. Excellent. thank you , thank you thank you.. you saved me a repair bill.
rroc001t1200b Awesome, glad the video helped get the dryer up and running!
Thank you very much. The adhesive that came with my kit was the very runny so be careful with it.
You are welcome. If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
Very helpful...much more detail than that received with the part. Dis-assembly and removal of drum: 8 minutes; remove old seal and clean seal surface: 45 minutes; install new seal: 3 minutes; reinstall drum: 8 minutes.
Glad the video helped you get the dryer fixed!
PburgEngineer no
Russell Schmitt Not sure what you mean but I hope the video helped you out!
Thanks my wife said my underwear still has brown streaks after replacing seal....she now knows it wasn't the dryer
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Oh man 😮
Excellent videos! Thank you for taking the time to make these, they were VERY helpful. I replaced the heating element, rear drum seal, drive belt, and lint seal. Vacuumed and cleaned everything thoroughly (lint exit tunnel was full of crud), and lubed the rollers. Gluing the rear seal was the messy and challenging part. -KAS
If I remember correctly Whirlpool recommends changing that slider type idler assembly with the roller type. Great job and a fantastic video. You guys rock.
Great video! Helped me replace the seal with relative ease. The removal of the old adhesive is a pain the butt and is rather messy. Ended up using goo gone to soften it up, then sandpaper. And putting the new seal on sure does take a little working to get it to fit on. Also, be prepared for the nasty adhesive. Thanks again for the clear step by step!
A Dremel tool with a wire wheel works well for cleaning off the old adhesive residue. Yes, you will need to stretch the new seal. Take this opportunity to clean out the dryer (mine had lots of lint inside). I also found a busted drum roller, so I replaced that, as well.
+altascene Thanks for the tips, hope the video helped you get the seal changed!
Thank you for the video. I had kinda diagnosed the problem of the "burned" looking streaks and torn clothes to that padding but didn't know the names of the parts and how to repair the dryer. All good now.
Glad we could help!
Just knocked this out in no time thanks to this video. Almost bought a new dryer and then I saw how easy he made it look.
My 70s series dryer motor ran, but didn't rotate. After seeing your video on replacing the belt I felt comfortable with tackling the job. Once it was apart I noticed the rear seal was down to the back material. After waiting a week and a half for the part I was just as comfortable at removing the old seal and replacing the seal. Now once it has 24 hours to dry I can put my dryer back together. Thanks for the help and saving me a repair bill.
thewelshlady55 Awesome, glad the video helped you get the dryer running!
AppliancePartsPros After letting the seal dry over night I put the new belt on the drum and replaced the drum with the new seal on. Instead of a putty knife I tilted the drum slightly and lifted the flap of the seal out with my fingers. It was easier. Then I crawled down and put the new belt around the pulleys. Put the door back on and replaced the screws and I was done. When I re plugged it in and turned it on it squeaked real loud, but after it warmed a little and I presume it resat the drum, belt, pulleys and seal the squeaking disappeared. The seal was so bad most of the felt had melted into a black plastic. There were places where there was only the backing left. Now it has been vacuumed out, new belt, new seal and the vents are all clean. Should last for some time. Not bad for 60 year old lady that's not afraid to try.
+thewelshlady55 congratulations,i have to do mine too,im 45 so if you can do it so can i!! thank you for your comment.
dntlss
Awesome, glad you both got your dryers up and running!
Used denatured alcohol to remove old seal seemed to work better than the less toxic version of Goop (did not try the one that smells like gasoline). Hardest part was getting seal to pop on before doing the adhesive as clothespins were not quite strong enough. Whole process reminded me of putting tubes on a bike tire. I ended up putting the whole seal onto the drum and then sliding it up to get the felt seal lip to pot over the metal. I expect another set of hands would have made this faster. In the end, dryer is quieter and working great. Thank you.
You're welcome! Thanks for letting us know how it went.
Great video - worked like a charm on a vintage kenmore.
Thanks for your feedback. Glad we could help!
The hair gets me everytime, but he is so knowledgeable
it will always amaze me how that little piece of rubber makes that heavy-a$$ drum spin round and round
Thanks, my drier stopped turning and I could hear the motor running and see the coils red and your videos help me take my drier apart without breaking something and helped me find a broken belt, so I replaced it and seen a rear seal tearing apart. So I put a new seal and new belt on to fix it..
Awesome, good job on getting the dryer fixed!
That was the exact same thing I'm doing right now and I was wondering if replacing the rear seal helped to allow your drum to spin. I found the snapped belt and replaced it but the drum still won't spin and the motor is working fine.
thanks! i know this is an old video bit my seal was trashed and when i started calling to get some idea what this would cost -- a service call is min $200 plus parts….. no thanks! so ordered the parts and a few extras since i was going to be removing the drum anyway so -- i did this drum seal, replaced front plastic tub bearings, the drum rollers, the belt, idler pulley for $145 and a few hours work most of it was cleaning the old seal off the drum and trying to figure out how to get that stupid seal to stay in place! a real PIA but saved me a lot of money and now ill hopefully be able to keep my 15 year old dryer running a few more years! thanks again! -- id suggest anyone who is going to do this seal, go ahead and replace those parts at the same time- the parts are cheap and youre doing the work anyway
I reused my seal, seamed ok. This is a 1972 Kenmore dryer. For adhesive, I used PL Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive. Simply ran a thin bead around drum edge and put seal on. Then ran finger around seal to set it down. I also since it is an old seal, ran PL on those cotton threads on the outside. Interesting that mostly this old dryer is made like the new dryers with only minor changes. I had to replace blower fan, it spun on its insert, so checking the adhesive on various seals found 3 were coming loose.
I used A LOT of binder clips to hold it place & I used SOS PADS to scrub off the old adhesive that really worked! ... no scratching the enamel at all . I used Brush paint cleaner with cotton balls later on to clean up any extra adhesive that might of leaked out to clean it up
Thanks for the tip!
Binder clips! Thanks that saved my night!
Thank you for the video,i work in a machine shop and we have access to a product called J5, its a product name for lacquer thinner, i discovered when i did my drier that it worked real well to remove the old glue,just put some on a paper towel and rub it on the old glue and it will become "gummy" and you can actually pick it off with your fingernails, my glue had been on there for 20 years!! its not easy but id rather do that then the sand paper or the dremel tool because when using those your taking paint off which will eventually lead to corrosion spots, the lacquer thinner is strong but not that strong to take off the stout paint the use at the factory inside the drum, JMHO , nothing beats fixing your own stuff man without having to buy a new dryer, those things are crazy expensive and once you open yours you will wonder why? lol
10-4, I used Acetone which softened the 10 year old glue, then a plastic putty knife, a wipe with acetone on cloth towel.
I convinced my seal to go over the drum and rest a bit. This stretched it out for easier assembly when glue had partially dried.
Goo gone cleans the adhesive like a champ
Those clothes dryer pins will not work with a seal that has not been stretched out and as far as cleaning the old glue "do not" use sandpaper or anything metal.All you need is a hard nylon tooth brush,Permatex Gasket remover,Goo Gone and degreaser with paper towels.
Spay a little gasket remover in a small plastic container and dip the brush in it and work it section by section. When it's completely softened with the brush use a paper towel to remove the residue then pour some goo on the towel and clean the residue then cleanup with the degreaser,All these products I mention are safe on the enamel.
+Yago Usera - There are seller selling seals out there with a tube of seal all,beware seal all has Acetone in it and will eat through the painted enamel.
now that's a great video, showing all the details and great explanation, i'm impressed!
Very informative video, many tips to use such as cloths pins,and I seen a clip on the top that fell off and I put aside, but now i know were it goes, again thanks for the video!!!
How long should these seals last? Mine is “only” 20 years old. Not sure how often it *should* be replaced. 😜 yes, I’m ordering it tonight….
thank you. very informative. tackling this project tonight.
Hope the video helped you get the seal changed!
+AppliancePartsPros yes sir. I did have to stretch the seal on first. it kept falling off. I will need to order the front seal soon.
Lee Dress
Great video! It looks easy to repair things!
It looks exactly like my dryer. I can’t get my door/frame lined back up . So I threw some gray tape on the bottom corners and going to bed discouraged .Thank you for the video though!
Thank you for this video, I literally just got done changing my drum seal.
Saved me $70. Thank you!
+Henry Paniccia Glad the video helped you get the dryer fixed!
I did the repair for somebody because an appliance repair shop quoted her nearly $300. to replace the seal & rollers.
The drum seal cost $32. & the rollers were included with a repair kit that cost $35. It took me approximately 2 hours time & nearly $70. in parts to make the repairs.
My husband and I followed this video to help us replace the felt seal a few days ago. When we put the dryer back together and hooked it up, we noticed that now the dryer doesn't dry our clothes. Since it didn't have any heating problems before we did the repair, I'm guessing the heating issue is related to us taking the dryer apart and then putting it back together. Any tips? Thanks for posting the video above. It was very helpful!
Kyla Tree I would recheck everything and look for any loose wires! You can also post the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem.
AppliancePartsPros Can you tell me where the repair forum is at? Thanks!
Kyla Tree Here is the link: forum.appliancepartspros.com/
Kayla, I just had the saem problem. Replaced The Rollers and Belt and Idler Pully and now it won't heat up very war. I have taken it apart 3 times to make sure the felt is not pinched, rollers are in the track and and it stays on place as front panel is attached. Just took the back off tonight and the heater keeps getting hot then cools off right away then comes back on. Lint is clear and the vent hose is clear. It had plenty of heat before I changed the belt. Kitchenaid KEYE677BWH3. If someone knows what is going on please help
Kyla Tree make sure the dryer is not plugged in and unplug the motor harness and plug it back in something it's not plugged all the way in
Do you really need to take the drum out if you're only installing the seal for the front of the dryer?
Many,many, many thanks.
You are welcome!
Nail polish remover removes the old glue along with a razor blade for any left over. Need to stretch the felt, doesn't fit.
Yeah, nail polish has Acetone, in it....👍😎
Thanks a lot for the video; very helpful.
+Carl Trummer Glad the video helped you out!
👍👍👌👌 thank you..!!🇻🇪🇻🇪
My dryer tub dropped inside... However, seal seems ok..but there were 2 metal stays were laying inside the tub and back side of tub is loose!
Not sure where they go... Any ideas?
We'd be happy to help you figure that out. It would probably be easiest if you chatted in or called us, that way you could send us pictures of those stays. We can take your model number and compare the parts to the diagram or your model and see where they go. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/.
Very thorough. Thank you
Why did you never show the inside of the drum view? Do you just leave it sticking off the drum or do you fold it over?
Can a bad felt seal be the reason there is water condensation in the control panel of my dryer? Maybe replacing that will help keep me from having to replace it? It's also making the electrical wonky - won't let me push it on, keeps changing cycles by itself...
Nice hair dude 🤙
I disagree how he did this. If you pull the felt up to put the glue under it the felt will slip off the drum. Clothes pens aren't going to hold it on. Once the felt is on the drum I push the tip of the glue under the felt while holding the felt in place and squeeze the tube moving it around under the felt. I also had four really strong spring clamps at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock to hold the felt on while using the glue. I apply the glue to one section between each clamp at a time. I also put the drum on my bench where I could stand up and pay attention to what I was doing while rotating it with the clamps facing out over the lip of my bench. I probably spent 15 mins total doing this. Once all glued I remove the clamps very carefully and lay the drum felt side down on the flood so the felt will have the weight of the dump to hold it in place while it drys. Some of the time it took was putting the felt back on after it had slipped off the drum because I hadn't used four clamps at first. Fortunately I hadn't started gluing it when that happened.
Anybody know whether the felt seal is heat resistant, or if that is an issue? I was hoping to replace mine with a tape like hockey tape (fabric tape with adhesive backing)... will this be OK?
No it may catch fire, use the glue in the video, please so you dont burn down the place!!!
So that's why they invented clothes pegs. To fix dryers. I always wondered.
If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
Thank you!
If this part goes bad could also cause squeaking
U said green thread goes down but it seems you’ve put the white side down
What is the recommended adhesive remover?
I used Acetone, did the work out on my deck so the fumes would not accumulate or stay long enough to affect me. Use gloves, it will dry your hands causing cracks and just looking ugly.
Because I have a clothes dryer -- I don't have clothes pins. Kind of a catch 22.
Thanks for the vid, hope it works!
Glad we could help. Good luck! If you need additional help with the repair outside of what's demonstrated in the video, you can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/.
Thanks, I was debating whether to call someone or not but aftger watching your video, I can do it!
if i'm at the customers house I cant wait an hour till the glue sets, I usually just put the drum on, never have any issues
murray romisher The glue needs to set enough so you can put the drum in without the seal falling off. Then let it cure for 24 hours.
I wish I found this video months ago. .
Seriously, why does all your videos skip the drum reattachment part?!
That's a job I would pay for trying to glue that felt on look like work. I would change everything else I Breaks down dryers to clean out all the lent that gets trapped moister and lent don't mix because it builds up over time and sticks. Got to be a better design to trap lent or easier way to clean them without unscrew Ten SCREWS.
I had to stretch mine with my foot.
FOR SURE listens to primus
Primus sucks!
Was hoping the noise was included the video can not help me right.
Jo C Not sure what you are asking, but if you need more help you can post the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you out.
I accidentally used a baby seal and he cried when I got to the clothespin part.
I 'felt' really bad.
Needs a serious hair cut wheww