Worth noting another key difference between the ATC guide and alpine guide is that the alpine guide works better on thinner ropes (best for ropes 8.1-8.5mm but works with ropes up to 9mm) whilst the standard is better on fatter ropes (works from 8.1 to 11mm) :)
I use ATC indoors because it works better with thick ropes for me. However, I prefer to use a bit thinner ropes outdoors and then I use Reverso. Both are excellent devices.
Depending where you live may need an assisted braking device in your gym soon. The last few rope gyms in my area are transitioning, and I see more and more across the US at least tending this direction.
@@zacharylaschober that's true. I have gri gri just in case because more and more gyms don't allow to use ATC if you're not regular. I live in Poland and if you come to a new gym just for climbing on your own then sometimes you have to sign a voucher. But you are still allowed to use ATC so far.
Mammut Nordwand is the standard I compare every other device to. No cabling, instead a metal plate which means an easier time keeping the anchor in place if the route wanders or you’ve set the anchor in not quite the best direction. Steel inserts for the device to last forever with no loss of function or grooving to occur. Plus, the forward hole for lowering, the A Hole, is large enough to accommodate most keylock noses for much easier lowering. Bout the only other device to compare to is the DMM Pivot which has the obvious namesake advantage. Practically every other two tube device… they’re all the same with no specific reason to use.
Hello "EpicTV Climbing Daily"! Thank you for showing us such a wonderful video! I feel so happy! I'm looking forward to your next work! Have a nice day!
As I recall the original ATC was a slick tuber device before they added the guide function. The reverso added the guide function first. So why the generic ATC term like it’s a hoover? TBH I use an ATC and prefer it to the Reverso, but fair is fair… they are either guide plates or reverso type devices, surely.
I still don't get why somenthing like the CT Alpine up is not popular and there's like 1 video about it, when it's basically an atc but with at least a secure on it, for what i understand it has both the advantages of an atc and the one of a grigri
Kong GiGi? Lowest belay friction of all. Grivel Scream? Micro-sized ropes down to 5mm diameter. Edelrid Jul products? Double rope guide belay, and geometry assist lead belay. Mammut Nordwand? Small and lightweight with steel inserts so it never wears out.
Own basically all of them! 😅 Reverso is my go to device on trad, haven't used the pivot yet but have it ready and the ATC (sport non-abd) for sport / indoors
Yup, Edelrid slide lock. Would not personally use as my sole attachment point for the belay device to anchor, but anywhere with some redundancy they’re phenomenal. Low profile thus can be rotated through and moved around without undoing, easy to operate with gloves, and plenty of folks use non lockers for brevity and ease which Id have the slide lock on. Is a two stage but scarcely. What I really enjoy for is in the gym when people are doing laps. Easy on and off to keep moving between ropes.
Worth noting another key difference between the ATC guide and alpine guide is that the alpine guide works better on thinner ropes (best for ropes 8.1-8.5mm but works with ropes up to 9mm) whilst the standard is better on fatter ropes (works from 8.1 to 11mm) :)
How right, ATC or ATS? And what's the mean?
I take the Edelrid Micro Jul over any of these for skinny doubles. I've also found the BD Guide to wear faster than the others.
Thank you for making such a good video explaining all of the features of these belay devices
DMM for me plus the CT Alpine up for belaying the leader, works well for ice climbing too I find & gives that added security of locking off.
Wild Country Guide? Great on all rope sizes, singles or halves.
I use ATC indoors because it works better with thick ropes for me. However, I prefer to use a bit thinner ropes outdoors and then I use Reverso. Both are excellent devices.
Depending where you live may need an assisted braking device in your gym soon. The last few rope gyms in my area are transitioning, and I see more and more across the US at least tending this direction.
@@zacharylaschober that's true. I have gri gri just in case because more and more gyms don't allow to use ATC if you're not regular. I live in Poland and if you come to a new gym just for climbing on your own then sometimes you have to sign a voucher. But you are still allowed to use ATC so far.
DMM is better than all it's competitors hands down. 💪
Honorable mention: GigaJul and Kong Gigi
Did you not include the MegaJul because it has an assisted breaking mode?
Yeah exactly 🙌
how come no giga-jul?
Mammut Nordwand is the standard I compare every other device to. No cabling, instead a metal plate which means an easier time keeping the anchor in place if the route wanders or you’ve set the anchor in not quite the best direction. Steel inserts for the device to last forever with no loss of function or grooving to occur. Plus, the forward hole for lowering, the A Hole, is large enough to accommodate most keylock noses for much easier lowering.
Bout the only other device to compare to is the DMM Pivot which has the obvious namesake advantage.
Practically every other two tube device… they’re all the same with no specific reason to use.
Yeah the steel inserts are what drew me to the nordwand. Combined with the Edelrid HMS bulletproof biner, the setup will practically last forever.
Hello "EpicTV Climbing Daily"! Thank you for showing us such a wonderful video! I feel so happy! I'm looking forward to your next work! Have a nice day!
As I recall the original ATC was a slick tuber device before they added the guide function. The reverso added the guide function first. So why the generic ATC term like it’s a hoover? TBH I use an ATC and prefer it to the Reverso, but fair is fair… they are either guide plates or reverso type devices, surely.
I still don't get why somenthing like the CT Alpine up is not popular and there's like 1 video about it, when it's basically an atc but with at least a secure on it, for what i understand it has both the advantages of an atc and the one of a grigri
It's because of it's weight. Alpine climbers aren't going to carry something that heavy.
Kong GiGi? Lowest belay friction of all.
Grivel Scream? Micro-sized ropes down to 5mm diameter.
Edelrid Jul products? Double rope guide belay, and geometry assist lead belay.
Mammut Nordwand? Small and lightweight with steel inserts so it never wears out.
The pivot fucken rocks !
🫡
Why didn't you review the edelrid Gigajul is amazing
Own basically all of them! 😅 Reverso is my go to device on trad, haven't used the pivot yet but have it ready and the ATC (sport non-abd) for sport / indoors
Too much drag on the latest Reverso when belaying on guide mode (from above)
Love from India
Similar one: CT BeUp..
5:03 that looks like a non-locking carabiner...
I think it is a locker - looks like Edelrid's HMS Strike Slider, to me.
Yup, Edelrid slide lock. Would not personally use as my sole attachment point for the belay device to anchor, but anywhere with some redundancy they’re phenomenal. Low profile thus can be rotated through and moved around without undoing, easy to operate with gloves, and plenty of folks use non lockers for brevity and ease which Id have the slide lock on. Is a two stage but scarcely.
What I really enjoy for is in the gym when people are doing laps. Easy on and off to keep moving between ropes.
Giga Jul. The end.
Kong Robot ...
Where's the megajul?
It’s an assisted breaking device so doesn’t feature in this category
It is a gimmick unless you are lowering a child.
Beeeeeeelay LMFAO is it so hard to say belay