How to replace a C5 Corvette Clutch Full Detail and the Adversity That Goes With It Part 1
Вставка
- Опубліковано 17 бер 2022
- I was hoping to make this 1 giant video but it's just not possible without cutting out a lot of detail which would then make it like most the other corvette clutch change videos. It's either 2 parts or 2 hours lol.
- Авто та транспорт
Fun FAMILY project. 😂
Couldn't do anything without them unfortunately. My busted up diseased old body is becoming more and more useless by the minute.
Thanks for going to all the trouble to video it. Our 1998 C5's clutch is still on good shape with only 60K miles on it but I was thinking about it. I have the later quick jacks having been purchased in April of 2023 that are longer and go higher. Getting it in the air would be easy but the rest. I have a racing buddy that has a shop. He is very fair. I think if it eventually needs a clutch I'll let his guy's do it. My wife is good for steadying things but aside from that I have no other help.
Doing this job on a lift would be so much easier. Pretty fortunate that my wife and I have always worked very well together. Not abused your clutch should last well over 100k miles IMO. Thanks for checking it out.
O the joys of owning a Corvette!! Thanks for the video
Thanks sam. The Monster Twin Disc is the perfect clutch for my power level and drives like stock. Worth the headaches.
Sounds like fun , I remembered I did that couple of years back I had to replace my bellhousing and clutch sleve cylinder because a shop moved the car while the whole rear end was hanging the with straps ..
Fun stuff ,lol , all I remember my next door neighbor was getting the kick out of it "You got your car apart again!!???, lol"
lol boggs my neighbors are constantly asking me if I am restoring this car. I'm like hell no. It's like a brand new car with only 35k miles on it. They then scoff as that's way less than all their cars lol. I'm like no, I just can't leave anything alone haha.
Thank you for the video I’m about to do a slave cylinder tomorrow on mine
Good luck Jacob. I always feel the worse for those that have to go in just for the slave and their clutch is fine lol.
very helpful! thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
27:35 It's nice to Isaac's older sister again. Is she back from college?
I like how you involve the whole family with your "ship in a bottle" hobby.
-Chuck
My body is so effed I literally can't do this kind of stuff by myself. I may make a video on the topic one of these days. I have a life long auto immune disease that not too many people know about in the big world.
Hey man very thankful for this video. I couldn’t find any others with an early c5. Currently im doing this to replace my slave cylinder. My question is how did you move that ebcm to the left with that one brake line that runs under by the diff and to the passenger rear wheel well? Did you have to start dropping the cradle first in order to move it over or something?
I seem to recall detaching all the hard lines form the cradle and a arms. The cradle, diff, trans, and torque tube all came down in one piece. It was a massive pain in the ass and some brake lines have to get tweaked a bit to get the EBCM out of the way. It can be done safely.
excellent video. i believe you captured the hardest part of the job well, separating the two. well done on showing that this can be done easily* with jack stands and a floor jack. they never decided on a good location for the ebcm, i would have put it in the left fender area... do you run ltft? would you be willing to send me a tune file of your car? my curiosity of tuning has skyrocketed lately, now that i have something to really tune. i think we have the same clutch, not a bad one but a bit grabby for my car.
*easily determined by age, its not during its the next day or 2. if your over 35 use a creeper. haha
Thanks cole. I know you these cars pretty well and know what's involved. Currently running an open loop only tune and we may try an experimental MAF only tune for the fun of it. So currently no trims are turned on. That being said if you want to see the tune email me. email is in channel info.
awesome, will do. how do you deal with heat soak? using iat for cylinder charge temp calc? i hate iat heat soak. i know why cleetus hate hoods now. i have been able to stabilize the heat soak at idle olsd but have not tested enough for off idle low speed stuff, honestly tired of tuning/testing but the ocd wont let me sleep...
@@colemcmeans7809 My IATs are not a problem at all around here. I'm using a fast acting factory LSA IAT sensor installed in the blower lid and I am using an air to water intercooler which is highly effective. My IATs are almost always below 100. I will say that when I was running before the blower I had 85mm MAF with built in IAT that thing was a piece of crap. It would heatsoak and never come down unless you were driving down the freeway for a half hour. You may want to look into the super responsive IAT sensor that motion raceworks sells now. It's supposed to be the fastest IAT sensor made.
will do i have a supposedly fast acting one in the air bridge and honesly it does pretty good. but for olsd it can still get up to 140 if it sits engine off for a while. a simple iat adder table would fix all that mess but i dont think that will happen. there are some tables in which it could be done but my patience has been exhausted with olsd for now.
Any chance I could get the measurements of the metal radio brackets you fabricated? I have been trying to find a set the guy on eBay used to sell or contact him with no luck so it looks like I will have to make my own. Your VetteNuts bezel looks like it fits really good. Mine not so much! :(
Hey Shawn. I don't really have any dimensions per say. I did copy the ebay ones with marginal success. If I had it to do all over again I would fork over the money for the ebay ones. OR if I was going to make my own again I would skip all the adjustability nonsense and just make straight L brackets with slotted holes in them that fit my head unit to my dash. way easier and stronger. Very happy spending the extra 150 bucks for the Vettenuts bezel. Looks very factory.
Nice footage , I skim through it , I’m going to watch the whole video later . I
I’m doing a rear main seal on an automatic for a buddy,
I’ve seen some people remove the rear cradle and just push it back a little instead of dropping it. My question for you is , should I drop the cradle all the way down or just push it back far enough to disconnect the torque tube while cradle is on the air
I think it really just depends on the space you have to work with. I mean, not matter what you have to get the torque tube far enough out of the way to just physically work with the bellhouseing and clutch. We basically just pulled it back far enough to work but left it on the jack the whole time if that makes sense. I wish you luck. This is not a hard job but it is a big job. like anything in life, I'm confident if I had to do it again I could do it in almost half the time.
@@PNW_Car_Mods okay yeah I get what your saying . Exactly, it’s just a labor intensive job. Thank you for your response.
@@dontfollowmygirlgetsmad7769 No worries, I try to respont to everyone I can.
Did you have the new clutch, pressure plate, and disc matched to the old factory unit as far as balance goes. I know the factory (hot balances ) all manual transmissions.
No I did not. Monster Clutches says this is not required. Also I am not running the original engine anymore so it is an extra moot point. Personally I wouldn't waste my time but if someone wants to take the extra effort I say go for it.
Monster Twin Disk - EXCELLENT choice IMO. Good to see your trusty partner in crime helping do a little wrenching! Also - are you aware of the Hot Balance procedure GM put these through - something to think about.
Thanks Toys. Car is back together and running well. Currently in the ridiculously long 500 mile stop and go break in procedure. Yup definitely aware. Not too concerned in this car. This car has semi solid motor mounts in it now so you are going to feel some vibration regardless of what is in the flywheel.
I read somewhere when you pulled the torque tube that the engine will tilt and you can cause damage…any issues?
It is possible to cause damage, but it would have to hang really low do do that. Just use common sense and keep visually checking on stuff. It was never a problem for us.
0:12 "Procrastination is like masturbation; it feels good in the beginning, but the you realized you just f*cked yourself"
-Jimmy Carter
lol I can't believe that guy is still alive.
@@PNW_Car_Mods EAT peanuts LOL
@@billnone305 lol I forgot about the peanut history. I actually had to look that one up.
just take my money mechanic.
I can't get my pilot bearing out I tried the bread and a puller it still won't come
that is a tricky spot to be in. You have to be careful pounding on LS cranks as they have a hollow bore in the back with a freeze plug in there that can be pressed out of place with grease or bread. If you can't get it with a conventional puller I would go after it with a dremel and a carbide burr and split the bearing shell without tearing the crank up too much.
@@PNW_Car_Mods thanks for your tip
Yowza 😳
You can say that again!
"as dry as a bone long bleached in the weather"- Robert Forby, The vocabulary of East Anglia. wonder where the f that is...
Ha! now that you typed that I feel I have heard that before over the years somewhere.
did you get my email this morning cole?
i did thank you, have never seen a blower tune. thats a lot of cells to hit. i was most curious about how pe and be were brought in, now i kinda see.
@@colemcmeans7809 Its even more different with a PD blower over a centri blower as the boost is instantaneous. If you just tip in the throttle it goes right to PE. That makes tuning the VE table a pain in the ass as you need to stay out of PE lol.
Dry as a bone.
Perhaps an old bone without any meat. Like you’d see in the desert. lol
yup. lol and thankfully still bone dry.
Man, I left a really good comment, but it's not showing. lol
I'll try one more time.
Can you add me as an "approved user"?
Click;
Studio
Settings
Community
Copy & paste my channel link in the Approved user box
click save.
This should allow my comments.
-Chuck
I tried that chuck and it says no user name results or some damn thing. If I manually type it in it will not highlight the save button. Very weird. I'll mess with it more later.