I have routinely opened my hood and placed a large fan to blow over the engine bay in my garage. Did it on my C6 & C7 as well. I didn't know the term heat soak but I just knew it couldn't be good for the hood to stay down and trap all that heat....
I used to open the hood to let the heat out of my C3 when I got home back in the day. The L-88 hood was good for letting heat out even when it was closed.
Buy another hood to install the trackspec vents on. Thats what I did. I have my black OEM hood hanging in the garage and a black oem with trackspec vents on the car. I never compared before and after temps but I’m 100% confident it’s cooler with the vented hood.
C6 LS3 H/C car idle temps were 221-228 in Florida heat. Straight wired (Relayed) my fans (always on)- Dewitt’s twin spal 11” and added Trackspeed vents. My cruising temps are now 180-190 and Idle is now 200-208. 160 degrees thermostat too. Very happy with the results. Those high temps were stressful.
Just espeniced this today on my C6 at 93 degrees outside ...I did open the hood but noticed before the temp did rise but thanks for the advice and I will be looking a hood
On the C6, it is known the side vents do not flow much air out while stopped or at any speed up to (or even above) 100mph. I dont think any Corvette side vent design (starting with the C2) has been shown to extract or out-flow hot air, as one might think the designers intended. You'd need something like a Gurney lip stuck further out in the flow to cause a low pressure region behind it that would make the vents work at speed. I haven't found a good way to extract heat, other than an extractor hood (and any extractor MUST be right after the radiator - before flow separates from the hood surface). Holes further aft in the hood will allow natural convective flow up and out while stopped, but will flow inward at any speed. Look at the C7 extractor hood and where the radiator airflow is ducted up and out. That is about "it" for improving air out. I have stopped all air "in" other than that required to go through the radiator, and I feed the engine from a ducted source that does not allow hot engine compartment into the intake tract. Oh... and along those lines; don't let anyone tell you the engine is fed some ambient air from being a 'bottom feeder'. Nope. Most of the C6 engine intake is from the hot engine compartment. Just a look at the air filter location will cause an owner to say "WTF, GM Engineers" on that one...Anyhow, have a nice day!
In the "old" days (carbureted engines), heat soak could cause rough running and occasionally, vapor locked fuel pumps causing engine to not start until cooled.
Thanks for this video. I could never figure out why the C5 sometimes feels so powerful and other times not so much. I am in the habit of opening the hood for at least a few minutes when I stop somewhere, depending on where that is. I do open the hoods on all my vehicles at home in the garage because I have always figured that excessive heat can't be good for all those plastic parts over time.
Cut 6 inches of weatherstripping out...driver side. Turned fans to come on earlier. Fabricated a port for the license plate plug. And I never ever turn my engine off immediately upon parking. Seems to work fine.
I’m running an E-force on my 2011 Grand Sport. For heat soak moderation, I have a shroud to isolate the front of the intake from sucking in engine bay heat. I also have a larger supercharger coolant reservoir and phenolic spacers to insulate the supercharger front engine heat.
@invertedpolarity6890. interesting features you've done to your car. But I'm guessing you added the supercharger? Or it came installed from the previous owner? BTW, what's the engine bay temp since you did the changes to your Vette? Thank you
I have always wondered about this so every time I brought my C7 home and put it back in the garage I would open up the hood. I now have a Lamborghini Gallardo and I do the exact same thing and I’m so surprised that how the Corvette or the Gallardo will heat the garage very quickly. I know these cars are probably designed to dissipate the heat but opening the hood has got to help
I've had luck in the past w my spec miata and bmw at races/track days by removing the rubber strip at the top of the "firewall" between that and the bottom of the hood. Not sure how much it helps, but it makes sense. Also, not sure what purpose it serves?
c 6 165 degree thermostat w/ADDITIONAL drilled 3/16" holes around the OD radial frame - c 7 Z06/07 thermostat out - use inlet - hose clamp band to restrict flow in colder weather
I’ll save you the time for the video. Basically park in a shaded area to cool off, open the hood for a bit or lower the temperature for the fan to kick in Or make adjustments to the hood/vents
I'm rather surprised no one has developed an exhaust fan that inserts into the side vents, I know I'd buy them if they were available. They could be programmed to come on at a certain temp and exhaust the excess heat. Perhaps a set could be cobbled together using some small fans, like computer exhaust fans.
93 octane rocks in my 05 Silver Bullet Vette…I have always put 91 octane in the tank but stopped at a Shell station that sold 93 octane and decided to try it out…wow, big difference. It was very noticeable and if I could find 95 somewhere here in Central Florida, I’d buy it in a heartbeat. Thanks for confirming what I accidentally found out
After my mods my IAT stay 2 degrees above ambient when cruising. Still goes up when stopeed/idling but recovery time is drasticly reduced and get back to the 2 degree above quickly. When ambient is above 95 it runs 3-4 degrees above.
I think so, but we're talking more here about the incoming air temperature to the motor which affects the amount of horsepower it can make. This video is not so much focused on coolant or oil temps.
I got the fastest traps at the 1/2 mile races when hot lapping the car. I let it sit for over an hour with the hood open and then quickly made a pass and it was slower.
I know the video isn't fresh, but it's new to me....anyhow, what you experienced is something I was going to comment on here. When you are running your car WOT especially for extended periods like a 1/2 mile pull - provided you have the car breathing cool outside air - your intake tubing, manifold and everything up to the intake valve should be withing a couple/few degrees of ambient air. The incredible amount of air the engine takes in, actually starts cooling the intake manifold and everything up to it after going WOT - eventually right down close to the temp of the air inlet if run long enough. If you are making back to back long WOT pulls like that, yes it's way cooler than sitting for a half hour/hour etc. Before composite intake manifolds, while sitting in the staging lanes we just to put ice bags on our aluminum intake and get them ice cold to the touch. It was sometimes good for a 1-2 10ths at the drag strip. With something like that, you're actually heating the manifold up as you run. A great trick for A/A front mounted intercoolers is to mist them with denatured alcohol and let it evaporate. Not soak it to the point of being a fire hazard, but just a light spray, evap, spray again, evap spray evap. After a few times, the intercooler is colder than ice to touch! On our turbo cars it was very noticeable. On a hot humid evening we could gain 3-4 10ths. I also tried rigging up a Co2 spray in front of the IC on another vehicle. It worked wonders, but got expensive and complicated to install. We were more doing R&D work. (I owned a turbokit manufacturing company.) IIRC Dodge even uses the AC compressor to cold soak the air/water intercooler and help once it gets hot. Great idea IMO. Especially if you are blvd cruising and getting stop light races. Your IC water will be ice cold and last a couple gears easy!
Is there any way to lower fan turn on temps without hp tuners? Autocrossing it's not the best feeling seeing it go up to 227 deg or so sitting on the grid. The fans take forever to kick in!
Yes, within the video I included a card in the upper right hand corner too a video with multiple ways to lower your coolant temps. Including fan temps.
@Toys4Life Call me liar? Look it up! Google it! Salty 🧂 Call GM and join and get mad at them.. I did not make a car and did not test it on race track and sale it! GM did. Look it up and call me a liar 🤪
@@Toys4Life Sorry, I should have clarified what I meant. My apologies. Heat soak is the process, heat sink is what is holding the heat. Yes, probably the most common usage of heat sink outside of science would be a passive heat exchanger usually associated with computers and electronic devices. Heat sink is also a generic term for anyplace that absorbs/store heat. In terms of climate, cities are heat sinks due to all the asphalt and such. Thinking larger, deserts are heat sinks. Didn't intend to get all pedantic, sorry about that.
I have routinely opened my hood and placed a large fan to blow over the engine bay in my garage. Did it on my C6 & C7 as well. I didn't know the term heat soak but I just knew it couldn't be good for the hood to stay down and trap all that heat....
I've done that at the track with a fan, otherwise at home my commonly do open the hood if I'm going to drive it again in the next hour or two.
@@Toys4Lifep
Battery powered leaf blower would be nice for things like autocross
I used to open the hood to let the heat out of my C3 when I got home back in the day.
The L-88 hood was good for letting heat out even when it was closed.
I just pop the hood when i get back to the garage.
Buy another hood to install the trackspec vents on. Thats what I did. I have my black OEM hood hanging in the garage and a black oem with trackspec vents on the car. I never compared before and after temps but I’m 100% confident it’s cooler with the vented hood.
C6 LS3 H/C car idle temps were 221-228 in Florida heat. Straight wired (Relayed) my fans (always on)- Dewitt’s twin spal 11” and added Trackspeed vents. My cruising temps are now 180-190 and Idle is now 200-208. 160 degrees thermostat too. Very happy with the results. Those high temps were stressful.
Just espeniced this today on my C6 at 93 degrees outside ...I did open the hood but noticed before the temp did rise but thanks for the advice and I will be looking a hood
For a stock C5, the Callaway Honker intake is about the best intake you can buy for coolest intake temps.
Great info thanks for the video. Good time to use your aeroforce scan gauge to monitor IATs. I keep this setting viewable on mine.
On the C6, it is known the side vents do not flow much air out while stopped or at any speed up to (or even above) 100mph. I dont think any Corvette side vent design (starting with the C2) has been shown to extract or out-flow hot air, as one might think the designers intended. You'd need something like a Gurney lip stuck further out in the flow to cause a low pressure region behind it that would make the vents work at speed. I haven't found a good way to extract heat, other than an extractor hood (and any extractor MUST be right after the radiator - before flow separates from the hood surface). Holes further aft in the hood will allow natural convective flow up and out while stopped, but will flow inward at any speed. Look at the C7 extractor hood and where the radiator airflow is ducted up and out. That is about "it" for improving air out. I have stopped all air "in" other than that required to go through the radiator, and I feed the engine from a ducted source that does not allow hot engine compartment into the intake tract. Oh... and along those lines; don't let anyone tell you the engine is fed some ambient air from being a 'bottom feeder'. Nope. Most of the C6 engine intake is from the hot engine compartment. Just a look at the air filter location will cause an owner to say "WTF, GM Engineers" on that one...Anyhow, have a nice day!
In the "old" days (carbureted engines), heat soak could cause rough running and occasionally, vapor locked fuel pumps causing engine to not start until cooled.
I remember!! Fuel injection for the win!
Thanks for this video. I could never figure out why the C5 sometimes feels so powerful and other times not so much. I am in the habit of opening the hood for at least a few minutes when I stop somewhere, depending on where that is. I do open the hoods on all my vehicles at home in the garage because I have always figured that excessive heat can't be good for all those plastic parts over time.
Cut 6 inches of weatherstripping out...driver side. Turned fans to come on earlier. Fabricated a port for the license plate plug. And I never ever turn my engine off immediately upon parking.
Seems to work fine.
I’m running an E-force on my 2011 Grand Sport. For heat soak moderation, I have a shroud to isolate the front of the intake from sucking in engine bay heat. I also have a larger supercharger coolant reservoir and phenolic spacers to insulate the supercharger front engine heat.
@invertedpolarity6890. interesting features you've done to your car. But I'm guessing you added the supercharger? Or it came installed from the previous owner? BTW, what's the engine bay temp since you did the changes to your Vette? Thank you
Just spent two grand on a hood. That’s going to solve my issue when commuting to work (even though it doesn’t overheat)
atleast you didnt cut a hole in the old one... i approve
Interesting. I’ve religiously popped the hood after drives because of the heat. Good to know it has a purpose lol
I have always wondered about this so every time I brought my C7 home and put it back in the garage I would open up the hood. I now have a Lamborghini Gallardo and I do the exact same thing and I’m so surprised that how the Corvette or the Gallardo will heat the garage very quickly. I know these cars are probably designed to dissipate the heat but opening the hood has got to help
at the drag strip its common to see guys let their car sit and cool off with an open hood, even saw a guy bring an ice bag to sit on his blower.
2001 C5 - 10-PCM P0442 -Replaced the gas cap w/ OEM. Where is my canister purge valve located?
Anderson Composites makes a great carbon fiber hood with about 20 vents on the top to let all the heat out. I have one on my c6 grand sport.
That hood sir, is a work of art!
I've had luck in the past w my spec miata and bmw at races/track days by removing the rubber strip at the top of the "firewall" between that and the bottom of the hood. Not sure how much it helps, but it makes sense. Also, not sure what purpose it serves?
Brilliant…good work.thanks..hanging a bag of ice in front ?…or cut intake plastic,drop ice pack, etc…trying to think out of box.
c 6 165 degree thermostat w/ADDITIONAL drilled 3/16" holes around the OD radial frame - c 7 Z06/07 thermostat out - use inlet - hose clamp band to restrict flow in colder weather
Interesting!
160 degree thermostat and setting fans to 200 and 205 for the C4 LT-1
I’ll save you the time for the video.
Basically park in a shaded area to cool off, open the hood for a bit or lower the temperature for the fan to kick in
Or make adjustments to the hood/vents
.
I'm rather surprised no one has developed an exhaust fan that inserts into the side vents, I know I'd buy them if they were available. They could be programmed to come on at a certain temp and exhaust the excess heat. Perhaps a set could be cobbled together using some small fans, like computer exhaust fans.
Question: Wouldn't a better radiator keep the car cooler and thereby lessen the heat soak aspect? 🤔
In hot weather I would say yes. In cool weather - not much. In fair weather - in stop and go traffic..
93 octane rocks in my 05 Silver Bullet Vette…I have always put 91 octane in the tank but stopped at a Shell station that sold 93 octane and decided to try it out…wow, big difference. It was very noticeable and if I could find 95 somewhere here in Central Florida, I’d buy it in a heartbeat. Thanks for confirming what I accidentally found out
After my mods my IAT stay 2 degrees above ambient when cruising. Still goes up when stopeed/idling but recovery time is drasticly reduced and get back to the 2 degree above quickly. When ambient is above 95 it runs 3-4 degrees above.
Nice - what are these mods you speak of???
👍 and and great info about engine heat soak issues. However, does any after market specialized radiator fluid make a difference on the engine temp ?
I think so, but we're talking more here about the incoming air temperature to the motor which affects the amount of horsepower it can make. This video is not so much focused on coolant or oil temps.
@Toys4Life, thank you for the reply.
I got the fastest traps at the 1/2 mile races when hot lapping the car. I let it sit for over an hour with the hood open and then quickly made a pass and it was slower.
That probably cools your oil way down. I think you want hot oil, cold intake and combustion area.
@@Toys4Life The oil takes a lot longer to cool than the coolant.
I know the video isn't fresh, but it's new to me....anyhow, what you experienced is something I was going to comment on here. When you are running your car WOT especially for extended periods like a 1/2 mile pull - provided you have the car breathing cool outside air - your intake tubing, manifold and everything up to the intake valve should be withing a couple/few degrees of ambient air. The incredible amount of air the engine takes in, actually starts cooling the intake manifold and everything up to it after going WOT - eventually right down close to the temp of the air inlet if run long enough. If you are making back to back long WOT pulls like that, yes it's way cooler than sitting for a half hour/hour etc.
Before composite intake manifolds, while sitting in the staging lanes we just to put ice bags on our aluminum intake and get them ice cold to the touch. It was sometimes good for a 1-2 10ths at the drag strip. With something like that, you're actually heating the manifold up as you run. A great trick for A/A front mounted intercoolers is to mist them with denatured alcohol and let it evaporate. Not soak it to the point of being a fire hazard, but just a light spray, evap, spray again, evap spray evap. After a few times, the intercooler is colder than ice to touch! On our turbo cars it was very noticeable. On a hot humid evening we could gain 3-4 10ths. I also tried rigging up a Co2 spray in front of the IC on another vehicle. It worked wonders, but got expensive and complicated to install. We were more doing R&D work. (I owned a turbokit manufacturing company.) IIRC Dodge even uses the AC compressor to cold soak the air/water intercooler and help once it gets hot. Great idea IMO. Especially if you are blvd cruising and getting stop light races. Your IC water will be ice cold and last a couple gears easy!
My C5 always runs between 200 and 220 and creeps up to 230 when sitting in stop and go traffic during the summer. Is this mormal?
Absolutely normal. Not optimal imo, but normal.
Stock hoods are also a must for me, will a 6.2L LSA from a CTSV fit under a stock C5 hood?
I'm pretty sure it won't.
@@Toys4Life Do you know if a 6.2L LT-4 will?
thank you
So the underhood heat image.....was a Honda S2000??? Why not a corvette heat image?
I should fix that 😕.
Is there any way to lower fan turn on temps without hp tuners? Autocrossing it's not the best feeling seeing it go up to 227 deg or so sitting on the grid. The fans take forever to kick in!
Yes, within the video I included a card in the upper right hand corner too a video with multiple ways to lower your coolant temps. Including fan temps.
What about relocating the air intake temperature sensor?
I think you want it closest to the carb and in front of the radiator, for accurate readings.
You definitely want accurate readings. Hot air needs less ignition advance as it explodes quicker.
I do the same with my.c5
Nice Vette❤
Hi there, I need your help in tuning my C5. How do I contact you ?
T4lifec5@gmail.com
Haha I'm glad my giant flag and dodge made your video but feel my C6 Z06 would have made a better fit! 😂 love it!!
Next time!
Cool!
don't put around when it's 100deg+
I'm in the Midwest, when it's 100° I take something else out (:-)
Or you could just get a vented hood
That would work. However "just" implies simple, inexpensive and easy...(:-)
Delete the hood problem solved
I should have included that in the drastic solution category (:-)
Alky meth injection, Flex fuel & NOS that should cool them iat's 😂
Indeed!!
Corvettes always overheat from the factory 😂😅😂 How expensive ass car always overheat after 1 lap lol😅😂
Why are you commenting on Corvettes when you clearly don't like them? I'm just saying but maybe there's something more productive you could work on?
@Toys4Life Call me liar? Look it up! Google it! Salty 🧂 Call GM and join and get mad at them.. I did not make a car and did not test it on race track and sale it! GM did. Look it up and call me a liar 🤪
Heat “sink.” Not “soak.”
I do believe that a heat sink is something that goes on another device to absorb the heat and dissipate it.
I do believe a heat sink is usually a metallic device connected to a motor or other electronic device to absorb heat and help dissipate it.
I do believe a heat sink is a device that usually attaches to a motor or other electronic device to absorb heat and help dissipate it.
@@Toys4Life Sorry, I should have clarified what I meant. My apologies.
Heat soak is the process, heat sink is what is holding the heat. Yes, probably the most common usage of heat sink outside of science would be a passive heat exchanger usually associated with computers and electronic devices. Heat sink is also a generic term for anyplace that absorbs/store heat. In terms of climate, cities are heat sinks due to all the asphalt and such. Thinking larger, deserts are heat sinks.
Didn't intend to get all pedantic, sorry about that.
Just buy a used hood and go to town!
Indeed 👍
Geesus .. couldn't you have spent more time working on solutions instead of running on about cause & effect paradigms.
Thanks for the feedback.
All that blah blah blah to tell you to raise your hood if you stop and let it cool off for awhile. What info...lol lol 😅😂😂😂