JST-PH 2.0 connector issues. With the growing trend of brushless micro whoop style quads and their need for high amps, too many of them are being fitted with poor quality JST-PH 2.0 connectors, where the pins are made from flat pieces of metal folded over into a U shape, which has poor current transmission causing them to really heat up too much and the craft sees a false battery voltage level. My UK65 came with such a connector and after less than a minute the voltage reported was low enough to trigger the battery icon to flash, so I replaced the connector with a board-mounted type that has solid pins and now it feels like it flies better & for longer, the connector temperature is noticeably lower and the OSD battery voltage is much more accurate. Today I made 50 replacement cables for the UK65/US65/UR65 using connectors with solid pins & 24awg silicon wire I'm going to list on eBay tomorrow at a reasonable price because I feel we (pilots) shouldn't have to fly craft that should've been better.
Interesting. I can't validate a hot ph2.0 connector. I might be misunderstanding the "U" shape bend. The pins in the connector run straight through crimped onto the wire. Is it folded flat?
If you look at the connector on your US65 under a magnifying glass you can see the tip of the pins look like a U because they're made from a long flat piece of metal folded over length ways.
C'mon AMASS, where's our XT10 or XT15? A nice lightweight connector that's made for power connections. Even with a good connector, I'm sure running 5 to ~10 amps (for 1S) through that poor PH connector doesn't make it too happy.
Lol. Every single PH 2.0 connecter burns out. Qx65 , bat100 , tiny series. Ive gone through about 100 of them. They last about 10 flights and one of the pins turns black which will eventually ruin your battery connecter aswell. Last 2 quads i bought it actually says this in the manual and they supply 2 spare. Scrap it and use the flat molex. Or rig up one using the pins from a servo connecter. They're stainless
confirm - the power connector that comes with the crazybee F3 and F3 pro boards are shit. I've got 4 of them (one in a ux65, 3 in custom builds (two regulars and one pro (2S)) Immediate difference noticeable on sag and flight times when you replace it. I bought a pack of 24awg jst connectors from betafpv off amazon and they did the trick. No need to drag yourself down to 2.8/2.9 under load so you can fly to 3.4-3.5 at rest.. replace the connector and the voltages will be more what you want to expect to see. e.g. landing at 2.9 would be around 3.2 rest... so now im landing @ 3.1/3.2 and resting at or just below 3.5 (if i feel like being kind to my batteries..)
i think the weight to power ratio is what is countering the washout. mine does get pretty hot motors, no hair in them. i actually have two 7s, the other the motors dont get as hot, both set ups are identical. i find angle and horizon dont fly that well, forcing me to fly acro indoors. im afraid a monster has been created. so smooth so fast.
You can also set up a switch on taranis and program different throttle , roll, and pitch rates. So no matter if you update bf version you won't have to remember to edit CLI.
For me instead of setting the max throttle to 75% I prefer a throttle curve, it is easily setup in betaflight, in the OSD I turn on the throttle position, get the throttle position for a hover for the quad, put that in as the "Throttle Mid" point for the curve then add like 10-20 on the throttle expo. For the height of the FC with the betafpv frame, a good solution would be slightly longer canopy screws and some very small O rings or spare rubber grommets used on the FC cut in half.
This video is a great source of detailed information and as they say, the devil is in the *details...* So this video was super useful to me and will probably be to anyone interested in this quad.
BTW, about angle mode... Yesterday I tried my 2 first flights with my 2.5" build. My first flight ended pretty abruptly, a drunk tree jumped from nowhere and attacked me. 😐 The second flight I went higher than the trees, but I got really confused, because I couldn't control it! Only a few hours latter I remembered: I forgot to switch from angle mode to acro! 😂 Anyway, unfortunately I'm already back, couldn't fly more at my parent's farm, because it rained all the time! But on 27th (of this month) I'm going to be back there! 😃
I hate being attacked by drunk trees :D I've realised that for confined spaces (indoor, small garden etc.) I can fly in angle mode really well, but big open spaces I can let rip in acro mode. One day I'll learn to do flips/rolls indoors with a brushless micro in acro mode, probably this winter when I can't get any stick time outdoors because weather.
@@licensetodrive9930 I don't know, angle mode seems weird to me. 😕 But, anyway, I got a Furibee F36 that I won in a giveaway last year and just received about a month ago! I'm going to put a FPV camera in it and try to fly it... And it's only angle mode! 😂
I hate posts like this where the most important parts related to science get left out. Jezzz So MC were you... or were you not in the woods? And did the drunk tree make a noise or not? This is important because IF the tree was in the woods and MC wasn't... and it didn't make a noise... then science will have to start all over again because it was probably passed out... or MC killed it.
Thanks again nick, mine is on the way, if the frame breaks up too easily I will look at my b06 and beta75 frames to see if they will swap. Looks to handle dives pretty well.
hello friend Well, my name is Leandro and I live here in Brazil, I bought a mobula 7 and I can not connect it to the ev900 glasses. I've already been informed that I will have to change his vtx. Can you tell me what to do and how to do it ?. I'm new to the hobby and I'm totally lost. Thank you very much and big hug.
Hi, I just fell in love to the m7 and I must say on 1 s it flies good, for I used to fly 3 " before, fly at home, chasing my kids is much more fun...anyway once my skills ...I solder back a 2 s. plug. God bless you
Good info Nick thanks👍🏻 I would also recommend pinching the transmitter. As a gamer I started thumbing when I got into fpv and I just couldn't get the fine control needed for good flight. I think I had bad muscle memory with my thumbs or maybe I've just hit them with hammers too many times 🔨. When I started pinching, which was weird at first, things immediately changed for the better. So definitely try pinching 😀
Thanks Nick your previous Mobula7 review made me push the buy button at aliexpres this video just confirms you made the right choice for me and just makes me more impatient for it to arrive !!
Btw my 75x doesnt washout at all anymore. My vtx died and so did my eos2 so i used a aio cmos camera hot glued into the canopy so camera mount is now removed. Canopy sits alittle lower now. No washouts at all. Even fast flying and aggressive dives no washouts. I think the weight saved helped. I have a video if you would like to see.
Noob question ! Can you use two of the GNB550 without any issues ? I have one on the way and i want to order some batteries . Most of the flying i'll do is inside and id like to get the best flight times as possible without frying anything . Thanks !
you can, but you will have to use a rubber band or something to keep the second battery. Also keep in mind when we add weight we have to use more throttle, which also burns more battery energy. I can't say if two 550s or 450s which would have the longest flight.
Hey Nick! Great video as always.... I like to fly fast like you...Not into that flipping thing... my 5" quads are at 72degree camera tilt... 82degree on my superfast one.... I just wanted everyone to know that I rotated the canopy180 /relocated the buzzer/ rerouted the wires and now I get 60degrees camera tilt... Now I really like it! :)
@@NickBurnsFPV It flies really nice @ 40 degrees camera angle in the house.... I'm soooo glad I bought this.... this exactly the power I've been looking for... had to turn the rates way up to r=1.5/.75, p=.63, y=1.5/.75 to get it to spin 180 kinda decent... doesn't have the torque to spin like a 5" obviously but good enough for this size... very agile since it's so light & powerful... very very happy! P.s. Can't find a spare frame... so I took a long piece of scotch tape and cut it in half the long way... applied it even on the bottom edge of the hoop and fold it over the top edge... very very durable now... so far... lol... Keep the great vids and honest reviews coming!
Hi again Nick , just wondering if you are planning on testing/reviewing the Foxeer falkor micro camera AND the new rcx 1306 6000kv 't-mount' motors ? Also i'll probably end up getting the Mobula 7 at some point (Christmas probably) thanks for the videos though my bank account certainly doesn't thank you lol.
I don't plan to review the micro falkor, but the falkor looked good. I wouldn't turn it down if offered, but I don't think I would purchase one at this time. I will check out the motors, I was unaware of the newer versions.
Does the Mobula 7 have a ufl socket for its vtx out of the box? I'm not upgrading the fpv camera, just the antenna. Will a Lumenier Axiis Micro ufl antenna go in a Mobula 7's standard vtx? I'm planning to fit one inside when my quad gets here, and hopefully i won't have to solder anything for an antenna upgrade.
I couldn't remember what video it was so I'll just leave it here. I have herd several people say the Gemfan 4 blade rubbed on the whoops of the trashcan frame. I have herd the trashcan and mobula 7 V3 frame are the same. Maybe something has changed but I put my mobula 7 v2 in the v3 frame and tried the 4 blade Gemfans on it and they fit fine for me with room to spare. Anyway just something I found I know this is probably old news by now lol. Cheers buddy love all the content!
yes, I have experiened that rubbing myself. But I have not tried those props on the m7 v3 frame yet. I have one operational with newbeedrone azi props.
@@NickBurnsFPV I think I may have worded that poorly. All I ment to say was the m7 v3 may be slightly different then the actual trashcan frame or maybe they got updated recently. I only mentioned it because I was surprised those props worked. Will there be a new line of quads like this later this year possibly? These little guys are so fun I want more! Lol maybe I'll just buy more of these and the mob6 and build a toothpick/twig something to have a proper outdoor quad. You have tought me so much about all this I'm very grateful. The way you give your review or opinions is very genuine and that so rear to find these days.
@@DMarko22- I agree about the Tiny(s). Just a look at the screw on props and the harder frame and you know it is going to be good. My question is how those new 0803/4 motors will perform.
@@cccagley5276 I started my 2nd Quad career with the Tiny 6 a year ago, I was not disappointed. KK ET 115, I was not expecting much but it whooped some asses! LDARC is always known for good performance, only lacking in extras like osd f.e. or some little better VTX. Well then, happy flying!
@pa.wx on Instagram has some cool 3d printed designs I think theres a link to download and print them if you wanna check it or test the frames, although he hasn't posted in a while
For the betafpv frame what about a printed mount that put the batteries on the side of the betafpv battery mount and snap it into the betafpv battery mount? just thinking out loud.
Hey Nick, seems pretty obvious but I wonder if anyone has copied the BF settings from the Mobula7 to the BetaFPV model to see if there are any magical settings that might transpose?
I can't say if that has happened. I haven't. With the number of pilots working on the beta products tune I suspect we are looking at a frame, weight or hardware issue with the betafpv brushless whoop.
I see the beta 75 pro frame might not be great. I wonder how the 75x will do though. Only issue might be the struts for fc. Battery I wouldn't think would be a problem. All just speculation as I have yet to have either. Hopefully I can soon.
maybe you could help me. My Mobula after a straight up punch then i just coast to loose altitude the quad wobbles and looses control on the way down. and am just decelerating only at half throttle. there must be a setting i am not aware of. thanks in advance. love ur reviews !
When you descend is the quad nose down, and maybe moving forward some? Or is the nose level and coming down level? If coming down level, there isn't a setting to fix that, flying down in "dirty air"...air that the props are trying to thrust against, it can also be called vortex ring state. This is something we work to avoid when we are flying by nosing down.
@@NickBurnsFPV Thanks for the reply. i see that nosing down would be the cure for that wobble i mentioned. But at least a gradual reduction in throttle should not create this. Wish i can show u the footage on the dvr. nyway thanks for the tip. will try that too.
Hi Nick great Vids, thank you! Any thoughts on the BetaFPV 300 mah lipos? Albert Kim thought the extra weight nullifies the extra mah? Got my Mobula today and need to stock up on batts!
I figure something like that frame should have less of a ducted effect on flight but still give good protection. Obviously it would be a much lighter build with the mobula components .
I haven't. Seems to me its a bit cumbersome where a larger battery would serve the same purpose. I can see where one might for mounting purposes, or due have a collection of a certain battery and not wanting to buy more batteries. But I haven't done it.
What if you put a gnb 1s 450 with a voltage booster to say 5 or 7 volts and fly it based on used Mah on the osd , would that work at all and if it did would there be no “ Lipo sag “ because there is a voltage booster between the 1s lipo and the fc ? , because a 2s lipo starts fresh at around 8.5 - 8.7 volts and when you land it’s down to about 7.6 volts if the cells read 3.8volts resting .
the no sag is going to vary, I suspect the voltage booster to make that wish come true would be large and expensive. voltage regulators/boosters have to get the power from the same source as the quad. Is the sag that much of a concern?
Nick Burns not at all , I just get a lot of what if questions in my mind from time to time and I like to “ tinker “ and experiment . I have tiny 3.7 to 5v boosters that is 13mm x 8mm and is 0.5 grams , I’m gunna see if a 1s brushed fc can Handel the 5v Input from a 300 mah LiHV that is obviously 4.35 volts, this might be interesting
What causes the motor not to spin freely in the Beta 75 frame? Is the bell rubbing or is there something in attaching the motor screws that is not right? Thanks!
I can't say there is a reason or If there is I know. I do think it makes some sense as most who have "whoops" have heaps of the batteries. 2s 300mah have only recently arrived on the market, 3 months ago there were only a few and they have jst connectors. With 2 1s batts no connector swaps.
Hold the bell from underneath, and wiggle the prop back and forth with the other hand. The wiggle also needs some force pulling away. That's how I do it.
Hey I just ordered one from banggood with a Xm+ reciever (; Can't wait :P I wanna ask you is it true that the vtx don't save the selected channel and band when the battery is disconected ? Since mine comes with a Xm+ the smart audio feature is not available.
The Beta75 Pro frame should definitely be more durable. I would cut the bottom of the tray and add a Velcro cable tie to use 300mah 2S batteries like the Nanotech. The tray is exactly the right width, it just needs to be taller. That’s what I did for my first 2S whoop. You can see what I mean in my build video (skip to about 12:00). Works great! ua-cam.com/video/PlYAdDGasP0/v-deo.html
Cant just use longer screws and longer rubber grommets? Also maybe i can use my beta75x frame with the mobula7. My frame doesnt look like your og or v2. Motor holes are only 4 plus 1 big hole in the middle. But the standoff are flush with the frame. Anyway when mobula7 arrives ill try some stuff.
no, the ph1.25 is a smaller connector, one we moved away from about a year ago on batteries and small hyper micro quads. New 1s batteries have this ph2.0 connector. Some call is a power whoop connector.
Hi Nick , I’ve review. I’m new to fpv and would like to get a whoop for indoors , since there are so many out there now a days I would appreciate your opinion of the best in door whoop. Thank you !
Right now I would suggest this and buy an extra frame and some welder adhesive. The frame will get broken, but it flies so well its hard to deny. Start slow with 0 camera angle and get the feel for the sticks doing a simple hover in place and then move slightly forward. With practice you will be able to do more and more.
I haven't tried it, but it does have an rx3 we can connect a receiver to. I am confused as to why you would want to. I don't believe these are shipping. If you have an order in for the frsky and need flysky I would suggest cancelling the order and re-order the flysky version.
so.. in my excitement of this whoop, and seeing it all sold out already.. I found one on amazon and bought it immediately, however.. i think it is a flysky one and i need frsky. can i put my own nano frsky or nano crossfire receiver on it??
yes, see the board layout at the link. I am not sure about the nano crossfire. Oh and because we use the rx3 or uart3 we lose smart audio.www.banggood.com/Racerstar-Crazybee-F3-Pro-Flight-Controller-Mobula7-5A-1-2S-Compatible-Flysky-or-Frsky-or-DSMX-Receiver-p-1361634.html?ID=529570&cur_warehouse=CN
I was wondering, for a beginner and 1st buyer, should I recommend this or the original Emax babyhawk? The PNP version of the latter is really cheap on Ebay.
Roger that. Thanks Nick. While I have your attention, any motor suggestions for a 4in hexacopter? I got a sweet deal on a Mini-Hex V2 frame from Armattan, it's currently only $40USD. The bolt pattern is limited to M2 on 12mm though if I'm not mistaken, so 1806 max without mods. I was thinking DYS SE1806 pros at 2700kv, but they're limited at 4S and I'd really like to try 6S eventually....Tall order, I know. The other alternative is to mod the frame for M3 hardware and go with 22xx size stators....
Likely the easiest and longest lasting solution is to use welder adhesive and glue the cam into the smaller part of the canopy. The notch they use to secure the cam isn't big enough.
Should I update the bf?? Also do I need to update the blheli? your pids are for 3.4 I cannot get in betaflight. only dfu mode don't know why. just got my mobula and came with 4.0
@@NickBurnsFPV mine is on 4 and it gets frozen on the bf screen and let me ask you, you have x lite me too I keep getting a telementry voice saying telementry lost lol you get that? Do you have on airmode when you fly it? Thanks
Frozen? If you can show me a video I might be able to help more with that. Double check your binding. I believe the instructions are pretty clear, if frsky x protocol in betaflight bind in D16 if frsky D then bind in d8 mode. Also put a piece of electrical tape or foam tape directly under the camera. The binding manual can be found at this link, click the link for the receiver you have www.happymodel.cn/index.php/2018/10/12/happymodel-mobula7-2s-brushless-whoop-manual/
@@NickBurnsFPV yeah instructions are easy. I did bind like it says but when is connected to bf it does that keeps going on and off loosing the signal. I got it on d16 now. I will make a video so I can show you. Do you use dynamic filter and airmode? Because on your dump file there on but on the pictures you posted it's off. My rssi is like 50%only
I need some help please. I bought a mobile7 and im pretty happy with it. but my OSD isn't working. can't see anything in my goggle. anything I can do? in config OSD is enabled. I really don't know what I have to do know. thanks a lot!!
thanks for your help! my English isn't the best..nothing changed. im getting picture to my goggle, I can enter the old menu over stick commands. but there is nothing on my display while im flying like battery etc@@NickBurnsFPV
@@NickBurnsFPV I tried.. moved different things to the center. nothing :D the mobula7 was preprogrammed right? I deleted the setting because I messed up something. maybe the old is lost because of this. my turtle mode is gone too.
@@simonlay4818 Did you flash a new version of betaflight? Do any soldering of the camera? Replace the camera? What has changed? The symptoms don't match the information.
Nick, I'd like to see you modify this to use the Caddx EOS2 with maybe a piggyback VTX or the Cricket VTX... Something that's super light and has 200mw power. As we both know, it's all about weight with wh00ps! But, I think a 2S wh00p my just be able to pull off an improvement in camera and VTX upgrade. 1S wh00ps can't take the extra weight. Thanks for considering this Nick! Nice video! 😎🤘
Like anything whatever you buy there will be a better one out soon after just depends how long you are prepared to wait ? I've pressed the buy button on this one now as it does everything I want (I think).
Kinda but not really. Different motors, different frame, different canopy, different props. The FC might be very close but runs 1s and 2s where the us65 is 1s only.
@@splugereport what batteries are you running. I suggest gnb 260mah hv. I don't think you will be disappointed with the mobula7, great product. Get an extra frame and some welder to keep bashing.
My Mobula is still on it's way, looks like I will only get it after all the hype has died down and a better one is available.......it looks like the Eachine Trashcan will make us bin the other ones.
I am not sure we will see the trashcan for bit. But when it does come it will be interesting to see how if flies. I worry the weight might make a difference, but the new frame I hope holds up better.
Nick Burns no no not trying to be negative here just wondering what it performance would be old buddy on 2s xt30..but a xt30 would add weight and affect flight . And that is probably not what your trying to do here. but if you have a lot of 1s stick lipos batteries why change anyways huh ? . Especially cold weather sitting in flying indoors a lot..
i have had the mobula7 for about 2 weeks and flown it about 5 times,i have never crashed it but for some reason one of the motors now only spins intermittently,i have tried changing the motors but it does the same thing so it is to do with the flight controller i presume,i am a noob and was wondering what you would try,thanks man
move a known working motor to the nonworking location and connector. If this motor still only kinda spins the esc is damaged. If it spins normally its the motor.
Sir Nick Burns,I want to keep my mobula7 flying but one of the wires (color green) in the tx was detached. Can you help me where to solder this? I've indicated numbers in the picture for your reference drive.google.com/file/d/1FKoB9ij6LlkiaFVZCB3K3YIXox8X3exT/view. I was confused 'coz it has 3 available pins at the back of camera/tx. Your help is very much appreciated. Thank you..
I don't have permission to see the google doc. From your description this green wire goes on the lowest pin on the right side as your looking at the lens of the camera.
@@NickBurnsFPV From top-down, first pin is Video out(blue), 2nd is Video in(yellow).... 3rd, 4th and 5th is blank. Did you mean the 5th pin? 5th pin is the lowest. Try this.... imgur.com/frv68jq
Take a look at this picture. www.racedayquads.com/products/mobula7-hcf7-aio-camera-vtx-by-happymodel click the picture of the back of the camera. Its covered in the black adhesive, but helps some. Mine are also covered. I expect it to be the third from the top pin, if there are lower pins I don't see where they are or have been attached any lower.
That likely needs a 10amp esc. I suspect I have over a 100 flights on the mobula 7 and a big number of crashes. I see the GT7 and 8 like the betafpv 75x, static camera angle and more weight than the mobula 7.
@@NickBurnsFPV hmm.. living in Australia means i either by em both and wait a month. Or just roll the dice and get either, either. I have alot of 450mah batteries. So that goes in mobula favour. I still dunno. I have the TinyR7 and its my favourite whoop. Especially with upgrade motors but they have average boards.. might stick with what i know.
The yaw washout issues out there in the 2S community at the moment, especially with the beta75x, is ESC desync. There is no magic sauce with the mobula7, they are just using a better ESC/motor combo that is not suffering from desync. People just seem to forget brushless 101 when it comes to brushless whoops......
You can set throttle expo in the Betaflight UI to flatten mid-range but keep full throttle for when you need/want it.
JST-PH 2.0 connector issues.
With the growing trend of brushless micro whoop style quads and their need for high amps, too many of them are being fitted with poor quality JST-PH 2.0 connectors, where the pins are made from flat pieces of metal folded over into a U shape, which has poor current transmission causing them to really heat up too much and the craft sees a false battery voltage level.
My UK65 came with such a connector and after less than a minute the voltage reported was low enough to trigger the battery icon to flash, so I replaced the connector with a board-mounted type that has solid pins and now it feels like it flies better & for longer, the connector temperature is noticeably lower and the OSD battery voltage is much more accurate.
Today I made 50 replacement cables for the UK65/US65/UR65 using connectors with solid pins & 24awg silicon wire I'm going to list on eBay tomorrow at a reasonable price because I feel we (pilots) shouldn't have to fly craft that should've been better.
Interesting. I can't validate a hot ph2.0 connector. I might be misunderstanding the "U" shape bend. The pins in the connector run straight through crimped onto the wire. Is it folded flat?
If you look at the connector on your US65 under a magnifying glass you can see the tip of the pins look like a U because they're made from a long flat piece of metal folded over length ways.
C'mon AMASS, where's our XT10 or XT15? A nice lightweight connector that's made for power connections. Even with a good connector, I'm sure running 5 to ~10 amps (for 1S) through that poor PH connector doesn't make it too happy.
Lol. Every single PH 2.0 connecter burns out.
Qx65 , bat100 , tiny series.
Ive gone through about 100 of them.
They last about 10 flights and one of the pins turns black which will eventually ruin your battery connecter aswell.
Last 2 quads i bought it actually says this in the manual and they supply 2 spare.
Scrap it and use the flat molex. Or rig up one using the pins from a servo connecter. They're stainless
confirm - the power connector that comes with the crazybee F3 and F3 pro boards are shit. I've got 4 of them (one in a ux65, 3 in custom builds (two regulars and one pro (2S)) Immediate difference noticeable on sag and flight times when you replace it. I bought a pack of 24awg jst connectors from betafpv off amazon and they did the trick. No need to drag yourself down to 2.8/2.9 under load so you can fly to 3.4-3.5 at rest.. replace the connector and the voltages will be more what you want to expect to see. e.g. landing at 2.9 would be around 3.2 rest... so now im landing @ 3.1/3.2 and resting at or just below 3.5 (if i feel like being kind to my batteries..)
Thanks for the tuning help. I was pretty disappointed by the flight performance of my M7 until today. Its like a whole new machine now.
Finally components worth finding the perfect frame for ! Can't wait to find out what frame will be the final version for you .
Dude, I gotta admit. Your videos are the most honest and informative ones out there. When are you planning to upload the comparison vid? Thanks Nick.
I haven't recorded it yet. I have been flying all three kind of back to back to back. I suspect I will edit sunday night and post monday.
I just ordered the fc and 0802 19000kv!! I can’t wait to see the power on those motors. Great video as always!
Also try "loctite 406" instant adhesive sets fast and super strong great for plastic fram repairs and no down time
Thank you Nick, very informative, answered a lot of my questions, even those I hadn't had until you addressed them here!
Another great review. IMO whoop washout cannot be avoided. Whoop "ducts" are just cute prop guards that only limit high performance flight.
holy crap man, you were the most informative person I have ever heard.
Thank you.
i think the weight to power ratio is what is countering the washout. mine does get pretty hot motors, no hair in them. i actually have two 7s, the other the motors dont get as hot, both set ups are identical. i find angle and horizon dont fly that well, forcing me to fly acro indoors. im afraid a monster has been created. so smooth so fast.
typically I find angle and horizon require a bit of a different tune.
Ok, headed to kwad camp in FL next weekend, any advice?
Got mine yesterday...awesome machine!! Flies amazing right out of the box!
so much fun isn't it.
loving the little dude, I got the Flysky version because I just got my Nirvana..which is also awesome!
What flight times are you getting?
around 5 mins...depending on how hard i push it.
You can also set up a switch on taranis and program different throttle , roll, and pitch rates. So no matter if you update bf version you won't have to remember to edit CLI.
yes, that is a bit more advanced than I would want to walk someone through. I suspect this request is coming from newer pilots.
I'm assuming you could use a set up like Josh Bardwell mentions on here at about 9 minutes in......
ua-cam.com/video/oE3Er5hE-cw/v-deo.html
For me instead of setting the max throttle to 75% I prefer a throttle curve, it is easily setup in betaflight, in the OSD I turn on the throttle position, get the throttle position for a hover for the quad, put that in as the "Throttle Mid" point for the curve then add like 10-20 on the throttle expo.
For the height of the FC with the betafpv frame, a good solution would be slightly longer canopy screws and some very small O rings or spare rubber grommets used on the FC cut in half.
Those are good options as well.
my OSD isn't working. its enabled in the config but I can't see anything in my goggle. any help please? thanks a lot
This video is a great source of detailed information and as they say, the devil is in the *details...* So this video was super useful to me and will probably be to anyone interested in this quad.
BTW, about angle mode... Yesterday I tried my 2 first flights with my 2.5" build. My first flight ended pretty abruptly, a drunk tree jumped from nowhere and attacked me. 😐
The second flight I went higher than the trees, but I got really confused, because I couldn't control it! Only a few hours latter I remembered: I forgot to switch from angle mode to acro! 😂
Anyway, unfortunately I'm already back, couldn't fly more at my parent's farm, because it rained all the time! But on 27th (of this month) I'm going to be back there! 😃
I hate being attacked by drunk trees :D
I've realised that for confined spaces (indoor, small garden etc.) I can fly in angle mode really well, but big open spaces I can let rip in acro mode. One day I'll learn to do flips/rolls indoors with a brushless micro in acro mode, probably this winter when I can't get any stick time outdoors because weather.
@@licensetodrive9930 I don't know, angle mode seems weird to me. 😕
But, anyway, I got a Furibee F36 that I won in a giveaway last year and just received about a month ago! I'm going to put a FPV camera in it and try to fly it... And it's only angle mode! 😂
Lol drunk trees get in the way of everything
I hate posts like this where the most important parts related to science get left out. Jezzz So MC were you... or were you not in the woods? And did the drunk tree make a noise or not? This is important because IF the tree was in the woods and MC wasn't... and it didn't make a noise... then science will have to start all over again because it was probably passed out... or MC killed it.
Thanks again nick, mine is on the way, if the frame breaks up too easily I will look at my b06 and beta75 frames to see if they will swap.
Looks to handle dives pretty well.
I suspect some fairly heavy modding to fit on the betafpv frames.
@@NickBurnsFPV yes, I guess so, I will try not to break it too quickly lol.
hello friend Well, my name is Leandro and I live here in Brazil, I bought a mobula 7 and I can not connect it to the ev900 glasses. I've already been informed that I will have to change his vtx. Can you tell me what to do and how to do it ?. I'm new to the hobby and I'm totally lost. Thank you very much and big hug.
Hi, I just fell in love to the m7 and I must say on 1 s it flies good, for I used to fly 3 " before, fly at home, chasing my kids is much more fun...anyway once my skills ...I solder back a 2 s. plug.
God bless you
Good info Nick thanks👍🏻 I would also recommend pinching the transmitter. As a gamer I started thumbing when I got into fpv and I just couldn't get the fine control needed for good flight. I think I had bad muscle memory with my thumbs or maybe I've just hit them with hammers too many times 🔨. When I started pinching, which was weird at first, things immediately changed for the better. So definitely try pinching 😀
Thanks Nick your previous Mobula7 review made me push the buy button at aliexpres this video just confirms you made the right choice for me and just makes me more impatient for it to arrive !!
lol, the wait is the worst.
Btw my 75x doesnt washout at all anymore. My vtx died and so did my eos2 so i used a aio cmos camera hot glued into the canopy so camera mount is now removed. Canopy sits alittle lower now. No washouts at all. Even fast flying and aggressive dives no washouts. I think the weight saved helped. I have a video if you would like to see.
Did the washouts stop before all the changes?
If your Mobula7 came with 2x printed battery mounts, use 2x on the fpv75 frame, one on each side of battery mount on frame. May work ok?
Thanks Nick, I will put this on my wishlist
Noob question ! Can you use two of the GNB550 without any issues ? I have one on the way and i want to order some batteries . Most of the flying i'll do is inside and id like to get the best flight times as possible without frying anything . Thanks !
you can, but you will have to use a rubber band or something to keep the second battery. Also keep in mind when we add weight we have to use more throttle, which also burns more battery energy. I can't say if two 550s or 450s which would have the longest flight.
Indeed , I wasn’t thinking about the added weight . Good point !
Wow that thing handles awesome. I gotta try 1!
Thanks Nick. I am interested in this drone and appreciate the video. Have a good one
Hey Nick! Great video as always.... I like to fly fast like you...Not into that flipping thing... my 5" quads are at 72degree camera tilt... 82degree on my superfast one.... I just wanted everyone to know that I rotated the canopy180 /relocated the buzzer/ rerouted the wires and now I get 60degrees camera tilt... Now I really like it! :)
holy cow that is surely fast as all get out.
@@NickBurnsFPV It flies really nice @ 40 degrees camera angle in the house.... I'm soooo glad I bought this.... this exactly the power I've been looking for... had to turn the rates way up to r=1.5/.75, p=.63, y=1.5/.75 to get it to spin 180 kinda decent... doesn't have the torque to spin like a 5" obviously but good enough for this size... very agile since it's so light & powerful... very very happy!
P.s. Can't find a spare frame... so I took a long piece of scotch tape and cut it in half the long way... applied it even on the bottom edge of the hoop and fold it over the top edge... very very durable now... so far... lol... Keep the great vids and honest reviews coming!
Hey Nick, I know that there is a size difference, but how does the LDARC ET100 compare to the Mobula 7? Backyard/Small Park flyer?
The only advantages the ET series has is it is very durable and can handle more wind. The M7 is more agile, powerful, fast and more acrobatic capable.
@@NickBurnsFPV Thanks Nick
Hi again Nick , just wondering if you are planning on testing/reviewing the Foxeer falkor micro camera AND the new rcx 1306 6000kv 't-mount' motors ? Also i'll probably end up getting the Mobula 7 at some point (Christmas probably) thanks for the videos though my bank account certainly doesn't thank you lol.
I don't plan to review the micro falkor, but the falkor looked good. I wouldn't turn it down if offered, but I don't think I would purchase one at this time. I will check out the motors, I was unaware of the newer versions.
@@NickBurnsFPV here is the link to the motors :) www.myrcmart.com/rcx-nk1306-6000kv-fpv-racing-motor-japan-nsk-bearing-arc-magnet-p-12489.html
Does the Mobula 7 have a ufl socket for its vtx out of the box? I'm not upgrading the fpv camera, just the antenna.
Will a Lumenier Axiis Micro ufl antenna go in a Mobula 7's standard vtx? I'm planning to fit one inside when my quad gets here, and hopefully i won't have to solder anything for an antenna upgrade.
No, its solder onto the vtx, and the vtx is soldered to the camera.
I couldn't remember what video it was so I'll just leave it here. I have herd several people say the Gemfan 4 blade rubbed on the whoops of the trashcan frame. I have herd the trashcan and mobula 7 V3 frame are the same. Maybe something has changed but I put my mobula 7 v2 in the v3 frame and tried the 4 blade Gemfans on it and they fit fine for me with room to spare. Anyway just something I found I know this is probably old news by now lol. Cheers buddy love all the content!
yes, I have experiened that rubbing myself. But I have not tried those props on the m7 v3 frame yet. I have one operational with newbeedrone azi props.
@@NickBurnsFPV I think I may have worded that poorly. All I ment to say was the m7 v3 may be slightly different then the actual trashcan frame or maybe they got updated recently. I only mentioned it because I was surprised those props worked. Will there be a new line of quads like this later this year possibly? These little guys are so fun I want more! Lol maybe I'll just buy more of these and the mob6 and build a toothpick/twig something to have a proper outdoor quad. You have tought me so much about all this I'm very grateful. The way you give your review or opinions is very genuine and that so rear to find these days.
could also go for setting rates on your radio? wouldn't that also be a way for it to be easier controllable?
Rates don't impact throttle response. It might help in other ways.
I get lines and poor reception with the vtx any idea? Tinyhawk has a better reception.
Your video feed is so clean in the house!! What do u use?
HD3 and laforge v4.
Any idea when this Mobulis7 will be available?
PS - The LDARC quads you mentioned look really nice with new 0803 & 0804 motors?
I am told Banggood should have them already. I think it could be a back log of product from their holiday.
@@NickBurnsFPV I found it at their spare parts list, not at the new stuff page.
The new Tiny looks badass, hope it performs as well.
@@DMarko22- I agree about the Tiny(s).
Just a look at the screw on props and the harder frame and you know it is going to be good. My question is how those new 0803/4 motors will perform.
@@cccagley5276 I started my 2nd Quad career with the Tiny 6 a year ago, I was not disappointed.
KK ET 115, I was not expecting much but it whooped some asses!
LDARC is always known for good performance, only lacking in extras like osd f.e. or some little better VTX.
Well then, happy flying!
Pretty nice, Nick! 😃
I guess we should start to think about 3d printed frames... Maybe with some flexible filament... I don't know...
Polycarbonate is pretty great for printing RC frames, but it requires a high temperature printer and a lot of messing around.
@@tenten8401 how about 3d printing with PETG? It's very strong and easy to print with like PLA.
@@scootroter4859 I tried it, didn't seem to make a whole lot of a difference.
@pa.wx on Instagram has some cool 3d printed designs I think theres a link to download and print them if you wanna check it or test the frames, although he hasn't posted in a while
For the betafpv frame what about a printed mount that put the batteries on the side of the betafpv battery mount and snap it into the betafpv battery mount? just thinking out loud.
Seems like a good idea.
@@NickBurnsFPV guess someone heard us speak a adapter for the betafpv frame battery holder here. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3158653
Hey Nick, seems pretty obvious but I wonder if anyone has copied the BF settings from the Mobula7 to the BetaFPV model to see if there are any magical settings that might transpose?
I can't say if that has happened. I haven't. With the number of pilots working on the beta products tune I suspect we are looking at a frame, weight or hardware issue with the betafpv brushless whoop.
I see the beta 75 pro frame might not be great. I wonder how the 75x will do though. Only issue might be the struts for fc. Battery I wouldn't think would be a problem. All just speculation as I have yet to have either. Hopefully I can soon.
75x frame for transferring Mobula7 components to? The motors won't natively mount.
I see, uses 0802 motors such as 65x not 75x. I guess I just assumed the motors would be the same. Thanks for the clarification
maybe you could help me. My Mobula after a straight up punch then i just coast to loose altitude the quad wobbles and looses control on the way down. and am just decelerating only at half throttle. there must be a setting i am not aware of. thanks in advance. love ur reviews !
When you descend is the quad nose down, and maybe moving forward some? Or is the nose level and coming down level? If coming down level, there isn't a setting to fix that, flying down in "dirty air"...air that the props are trying to thrust against, it can also be called vortex ring state. This is something we work to avoid when we are flying by nosing down.
@@NickBurnsFPV Thanks for the reply. i see that nosing down would be the cure for that wobble i mentioned. But at least a gradual reduction in throttle should not create this. Wish i can show u the footage on the dvr. nyway thanks for the tip. will try that too.
Hi Nick great Vids, thank you! Any thoughts on the BetaFPV 300 mah lipos? Albert Kim thought the extra weight nullifies the extra mah? Got my Mobula today and need to stock up on batts!
I don't see a benefit either. I would stick to ~260mah batts.
Thank you! Ordered GNB 260’s yesterday 😃
Awesome video! Thanks for the name drop haha👌🏽 This quad looks very promising. I want one... or at least that FC for my 65X
I would be very interested what people do to mount this fc in the betafpv frames, the stanoffs are so short I am not sure how to accomplish this.
Nick Burns What did you think of the frame for the " swirlie"?
I like the swirlie, at that time our prop options were very limited. One item I didn't care for was the relatively tall stack or profile.
I figure something like that frame should have less of a ducted effect on flight but still give good protection. Obviously it would be a much lighter build with the mobula components .
Have you ever tried running 2 batteries in parallel just to get more flight time?
I haven't. Seems to me its a bit cumbersome where a larger battery would serve the same purpose. I can see where one might for mounting purposes, or due have a collection of a certain battery and not wanting to buy more batteries. But I haven't done it.
What if you put a gnb 1s 450 with a voltage booster to say 5 or 7 volts and fly it based on used Mah on the osd , would that work at all and if it did would there be no “ Lipo sag “ because there is a voltage booster between the 1s lipo and the fc ? , because a 2s lipo starts fresh at around 8.5 - 8.7 volts and when you land it’s down to about 7.6 volts if the cells read 3.8volts resting .
the no sag is going to vary, I suspect the voltage booster to make that wish come true would be large and expensive. voltage regulators/boosters have to get the power from the same source as the quad. Is the sag that much of a concern?
Nick Burns not at all , I just get a lot of what if questions in my mind from time to time and I like to “ tinker “ and experiment . I have tiny 3.7 to 5v boosters that is 13mm x 8mm and is 0.5 grams , I’m gunna see if a 1s brushed fc can Handel the 5v Input from a 300 mah LiHV that is obviously 4.35 volts, this might be interesting
I would be interested in your findings as well.
What causes the motor not to spin freely in the Beta 75 frame? Is the bell rubbing or is there something in attaching the motor screws that is not right? Thanks!
Not the bell but the shaft/eclip.
Thanks, something else to put on the checklist for hot motors!
one thing i am confuse why they want us to use 2 1s lipos ? There are lot of 2s 300 400mah lipos available
I can't say there is a reason or If there is I know. I do think it makes some sense as most who have "whoops" have heaps of the batteries. 2s 300mah have only recently arrived on the market, 3 months ago there were only a few and they have jst connectors. With 2 1s batts no connector swaps.
Is there an easy way to remove the props on the mob7? I feel like I'm going to break this in half doing so. Thx in advance...
Hold the bell from underneath, and wiggle the prop back and forth with the other hand. The wiggle also needs some force pulling away. That's how I do it.
That worked perfectly, thank you!
Hey I just ordered one from banggood with a Xm+ reciever (; Can't wait :P I wanna ask you is it true that the vtx don't save the selected channel and band when the battery is disconected ? Since mine comes with a Xm+ the smart audio feature is not available.
No, mine saves. I suspect its either an anomaly or its not saving because the user isn't selecting set from the osd.
The Beta75 Pro frame should definitely be more durable. I would cut the bottom of the tray and add a Velcro cable tie to use 300mah 2S batteries like the Nanotech. The tray is exactly the right width, it just needs to be taller. That’s what I did for my first 2S whoop. You can see what I mean in my build video (skip to about 12:00). Works great!
ua-cam.com/video/PlYAdDGasP0/v-deo.html
Transferring the guts from this into a UR65 frame would work right? It would become a mobula6 😁 also why not change to a xt30?
ur65 standoffs are short, overcome that and yes the rest of the components will fit
Cant just use longer screws and longer rubber grommets? Also maybe i can use my beta75x frame with the mobula7. My frame doesnt look like your og or v2. Motor holes are only 4 plus 1 big hole in the middle. But the standoff are flush with the frame. Anyway when mobula7 arrives ill try some stuff.
Hey I got a connector from a vtx03. I think it’s jst 1.25 would it work with the mobula (jst ph 2.0)?
Want to use 1s
no, the ph1.25 is a smaller connector, one we moved away from about a year ago on batteries and small hyper micro quads. New 1s batteries have this ph2.0 connector. Some call is a power whoop connector.
Why not use a JST connector, cut the strut on BetaFPV v2 frame & use a 2s 300mAh?
Its not a why not issue, but rather larger 1s batteries. The beta v2 frame has other issues to overcome to use easily.
Hey nick,
Do you charge your battery to 4.2 or 4.35? because mine is getting warm and puffy...
that is a good question. I have the EV peak charger and set to HV, so whatever that charges to :). I suspect its 4.35 on a good battery.
Hey nick I heard that the new frame may have dropped what have you heard?
I heard pirofliprc.com has/had some, not sure about other vendors.
@@NickBurnsFPV ebay has some listed overseas. I got on the waiting list at piro. Thanks Nick
Hi Nick , I’ve review. I’m new to fpv and would like to get a whoop for indoors , since there are so many out there now a days I would appreciate your opinion of the best in door whoop. Thank you !
Right now I would suggest this and buy an extra frame and some welder adhesive. The frame will get broken, but it flies so well its hard to deny. Start slow with 0 camera angle and get the feel for the sticks doing a simple hover in place and then move slightly forward. With practice you will be able to do more and more.
Hi Nick, if I have one with built in frsky receiver, can I externally connect a flysky micro receiver?
I haven't tried it, but it does have an rx3 we can connect a receiver to. I am confused as to why you would want to. I don't believe these are shipping. If you have an order in for the frsky and need flysky I would suggest cancelling the order and re-order the flysky version.
on gearbest they are shipping
They are? You have tracking showing movement?
Does the standard version come with a cord for the charger?
no cord.
What type of cord does it take?
an xt60 or barrel connector.
so.. in my excitement of this whoop, and seeing it all sold out already.. I found one on amazon and bought it immediately, however.. i think it is a flysky one and i need frsky. can i put my own nano frsky or nano crossfire receiver on it??
yes, see the board layout at the link. I am not sure about the nano crossfire. Oh and because we use the rx3 or uart3 we lose smart audio.www.banggood.com/Racerstar-Crazybee-F3-Pro-Flight-Controller-Mobula7-5A-1-2S-Compatible-Flysky-or-Frsky-or-DSMX-Receiver-p-1361634.html?ID=529570&cur_warehouse=CN
Which one do you think is better between the Mobula 7 and the URUAV UR65?
mobula 7
@@NickBurnsFPV Thanks Nick.
I was wondering, for a beginner and 1st buyer, should I recommend this or the original Emax babyhawk? The PNP version of the latter is really cheap on Ebay.
I would suggest this, by far. the original babyhawk is okay, but it has component weaknesses.
Roger that. Thanks Nick. While I have your attention, any motor suggestions for a 4in hexacopter? I got a sweet deal on a Mini-Hex V2 frame from Armattan, it's currently only $40USD. The bolt pattern is limited to M2 on 12mm though if I'm not mistaken, so 1806 max without mods. I was thinking DYS SE1806 pros at 2700kv, but they're limited at 4S and I'd really like to try 6S eventually....Tall order, I know. The other alternative is to mod the frame for M3 hardware and go with 22xx size stators....
I afraid I am not a good reference for 4inch motors, my experience is with 3inch or less.
Well, it was worth a shot, lol. I'd respect your opinion. Thanks for the reply. Take care.
I'm running my snapper 7 electronics in a beta75 pro frame. I hate the snapper canopy. Camera keeps getting knocked loose. Any suggestions?
Likely the easiest and longest lasting solution is to use welder adhesive and glue the cam into the smaller part of the canopy. The notch they use to secure the cam isn't big enough.
@@NickBurnsFPV Thanks for the quick response! I appreciate the input.
not a problem.
Why not just swap it to Beta75x frame?
Motors won't natively mount, and the short standoffs will be an issue for canopy mounting as well.
@@NickBurnsFPV ok... I have snapper6 on betafpv 65x frame w no issues, full tilt cam and the motors fits great 👌
Should I update the bf?? Also do I need to update the blheli? your pids are for 3.4 I cannot get in betaflight. only dfu mode don't know why. just got my mobula and came with 4.0
I have two on 3.5.1 and one on 4. I don't think updating is necessary but won't hurt anything.
@@NickBurnsFPV mine is on 4 and it gets frozen on the bf screen and let me ask you, you have x lite me too I keep getting a telementry voice saying telementry lost lol you get that? Do you have on airmode when you fly it? Thanks
Frozen? If you can show me a video I might be able to help more with that. Double check your binding. I believe the instructions are pretty clear, if frsky x protocol in betaflight bind in D16 if frsky D then bind in d8 mode. Also put a piece of electrical tape or foam tape directly under the camera. The binding manual can be found at this link, click the link for the receiver you have www.happymodel.cn/index.php/2018/10/12/happymodel-mobula7-2s-brushless-whoop-manual/
@@NickBurnsFPV yeah instructions are easy. I did bind like it says but when is connected to bf it does that keeps going on and off loosing the signal. I got it on d16 now. I will make a video so I can show you. Do you use dynamic filter and airmode? Because on your dump file there on but on the pictures you posted it's off. My rssi is like 50%only
Is the radio really close to the quad? Sometimes having it to close can cause rssi issues.
I need some help please. I bought a mobile7 and im pretty happy with it. but my OSD isn't working. can't see anything in my goggle. anything I can do? in config OSD is enabled. I really don't know what I have to do know. thanks a lot!!
switch the camera to ntcs and then pal in betaflight checking for osd after each change.
thanks for your help! my English isn't the best..nothing changed. im getting picture to my goggle, I can enter the old menu over stick commands. but there is nothing on my display while im flying like battery etc@@NickBurnsFPV
In betaflight on the OSD page, move the items more towards the center of the screen, you can do this while looking in your goggles. @@simonlay4818
@@NickBurnsFPV I tried.. moved different things to the center. nothing :D the mobula7 was preprogrammed right? I deleted the setting because I messed up something. maybe the old is lost because of this. my turtle mode is gone too.
@@simonlay4818 Did you flash a new version of betaflight? Do any soldering of the camera? Replace the camera? What has changed? The symptoms don't match the information.
hi, great vid, you should have a look on the betafpv 300mah 2s 😁👍
Nick, I'd like to see you modify this to use the Caddx EOS2 with maybe a piggyback VTX or the Cricket VTX... Something that's super light and has 200mw power. As we both know, it's all about weight with wh00ps! But, I think a 2S wh00p my just be able to pull off an improvement in camera and VTX upgrade. 1S wh00ps can't take the extra weight.
Thanks for considering this Nick! Nice video! 😎🤘
If the weather doesn't straighten up before winter really hits I may have time to do some mods. We shall see.
Nick i have a heap of 2s 550 packs can i use them on this?
it would require an adapter or mod, I think you will find the performance is impacted with the extra weight.
So tempted! But then the pro versions are coming.... and the GT8.... hmmmmmm..... just saw some pics of the GT8 frame... looks nice and durable!!!
Like anything whatever you buy there will be a better one out soon after just depends how long you are prepared to wait ?
I've pressed the buy button on this one now as it does everything I want (I think).
Can you buy the JST 2.0 jumper?
I have not seen it for sale anywhere. we can make our own right now. We can go to ebay get the male connectors and there we go.
@@NickBurnsFPV ya I'll do that... I was just curious... I'm really suprised no one made that lol
Great review and flight footage!!! I really like brushless whoops!!! And i have the Beta65 coming and can not wait!!!!!
Awesome Video! Can t wait to get mine!
Thank you for the video. Have a nice weekend !
Is this just a us65 with a 2 lead connector?
Kinda but not really. Different motors, different frame, different canopy, different props. The FC might be very close but runs 1s and 2s where the us65 is 1s only.
Nick Burns thanks! I love the us65 but it sags on 1s immediately and wobbles with 3 blades. Thanks for making me send another $90 to China :)
@@splugereport what batteries are you running. I suggest gnb 260mah hv. I don't think you will be disappointed with the mobula7, great product. Get an extra frame and some welder to keep bashing.
Nick Burns yeah I use those and the bee nectar ones (which are way lighter and I find generally better)
Already a recommended PIDs?
defaults are very good. I haven't bothered to tune it 100%, it flies as in the video with defaults.
Will the components fit the Beta75x frame?
Motors won't mount and standoffs are also short as the frame in the video.
My Mobula is still on it's way, looks like I will only get it after all the hype has died down and a better one is available.......it looks like the Eachine Trashcan will make us bin the other ones.
I am not sure we will see the trashcan for bit. But when it does come it
will be interesting to see how if flies. I worry the weight might make a
difference, but the new frame I hope holds up better.
What's your favorite outdoor micro?
likely the build with hytrain 1407 4140kv motors. Otherwise for 3inch the helifar x140 pro, babyhawk r pro or skystars x120.
Someone can tell go boys for Mobula 7 or Beta 75X ?
ua-cam.com/video/qU7SeO4EzPM/v-deo.html
Wonder what it performance with a xt30
Mincing words a bit here, but I wouldn't say it needs it, but if someone desires that very easy swap.
Nick Burns no no not trying to be negative here just wondering what it performance would be old buddy on 2s xt30..but a xt30 would add weight and affect flight . And that is probably not what your trying to do here. but if you have a lot of 1s stick lipos batteries why change anyways huh ? . Especially cold weather sitting in flying indoors a lot..
i have had the mobula7 for about 2 weeks and flown it about 5 times,i have never crashed it but for some reason one of the motors now only spins intermittently,i have tried changing the motors but it does the same thing so it is to do with the flight controller i presume,i am a noob and was wondering what you would try,thanks man
move a known working motor to the nonworking location and connector. If this motor still only kinda spins the esc is damaged. If it spins normally its the motor.
Sir Nick Burns,I want to keep my mobula7 flying but one of the wires (color green) in the tx was detached. Can you help me where to solder this? I've indicated numbers in the picture for your reference drive.google.com/file/d/1FKoB9ij6LlkiaFVZCB3K3YIXox8X3exT/view. I was confused 'coz it has 3 available pins at the back of camera/tx. Your help is very much appreciated. Thank you..
I don't have permission to see the google doc. From your description this green wire goes on the lowest pin on the right side as your looking at the lens of the camera.
@@NickBurnsFPV From top-down, first pin is Video out(blue), 2nd is Video in(yellow).... 3rd, 4th and 5th is blank. Did you mean the 5th pin? 5th pin is the lowest. Try this.... imgur.com/frv68jq
Take a look at this picture. www.racedayquads.com/products/mobula7-hcf7-aio-camera-vtx-by-happymodel click the picture of the back of the camera. Its covered in the black adhesive, but helps some. Mine are also covered. I expect it to be the third from the top pin, if there are lower pins I don't see where they are or have been attached any lower.
@@NickBurnsFPV Thank you Sir... I will try the third pin hope there is no magic smoke... THANKS!
I thought the cam looked pretty good
i'm so glad i got one when they still were 70$ on aliexpress 😊
lol got mine for 60
Great Nick
First andddd time to watch if this the one to buy!
No one can say you weren't thorough with this model.
Basically Nick if you say it's good we buy it lol
Tiny GT7 For the 2S Win!
Not sure about that. The modula 7 will be hard to beat.
@@NickBurnsFPV tiny is cheaper, and has 10amp esc.
Actually, its not cheaper now.
Flysky version is 138 preorder.
Gt7 168
That likely needs a 10amp esc. I suspect I have over a 100 flights on the mobula 7 and a big number of crashes. I see the GT7 and 8 like the betafpv 75x, static camera angle and more weight than the mobula 7.
@@NickBurnsFPV hmm.. living in Australia means i either by em both and wait a month. Or just roll the dice and get either, either.
I have alot of 450mah batteries. So that goes in mobula favour. I still dunno. I have the TinyR7 and its my favourite whoop. Especially with upgrade motors but they have average boards.. might stick with what i know.
Ive actually got 2 spare teenypro stacks that came to replace my faulty ones. Maybe i should stick a stack in a whoop haha
No name dropping, but a name rhymes with Robert Thompson. :)
I better pick that up since your dropped it.
Thanks.
Very nice
It's like perfect.. 😎
The yaw washout issues out there in the 2S community at the moment, especially with the beta75x, is ESC desync. There is no magic sauce with the mobula7, they are just using a better ESC/motor combo that is not suffering from desync. People just seem to forget brushless 101 when it comes to brushless whoops......
In my testing the frame is the key component. A frame that flexes to much will have washout.