Thank you!!!! You are the first of the YT machining celebs who points out that a wheel ALWAYS needs to be run with a blotter on its sides! This is vitally important, not only for precision , but above all for the safety of the operator! I have seen some horrid and dangerous setups on YT, where this ignored and very hairy situations are created ! Thank you! Paddy
Very nicely explained, many thanks from a novice at bench grinding. I bought a cheap bench grinder from Harbor Freight - Central Machinery 8" wheels. It rocks so violently it was frightening. I had no clue what to do. This is an art not a science to balance wheels. Slowly learning how to make this work. Its not how pricey the machine is, but how well balanced. If I succeed in truing my wheels I will consider it a major achievement in woodworking. Thank you very much for your time and expertise. I learned a lot.
You are AWESOME!!!!!!!!!! I've only been handed drips and drabs from the old-timers I've worked with... And it was always a case of either "Who was the (CENSORED WORD) that failed to teach you how to do it!!!!' or you (CENSORED WORD), are you a (CENSORED WORD) (CENSORED WORD) for not knowing how to do that. Thank You, Thank You, Thank You for taking the time to not only post this, but also taking the time to explain this whole process in detail!!!!! It's teacher's like you that I always wish I could learn from; we're in deep trouble of loosing this kind of knowledge for a long time the way things are going in industry today.......
LOSING, not LOOSING. We are in danger of LOSING the English language to those who use it LOOSELY. LOSE is to misplace or be robbed LOOSE is a wheel that gets bobbed.
THIS. IS. FREE. Can you believe the time we live in? This is 100% free to access information, maybe you had to watch and advertisement before this video, but if you have an internet connected device, you got to watch this video for free. Incredible. Absolutely incredible.
Thank you Stan. I bought the same Sopko balancing arbors. Didn't even include instructions. Not impressed. At least now I can balance my wheels and get back to work. Tks, Gilles
I arrived here whilst looking for balancing a hobby use bench grinder. The content's way over what I'm looking to do (or have the tools for) but despite that, I'm here to the end, learned much & found the process fascinating. Thanks.
There is a great deal of incredibly good information in this video. If you are new to surface grinding you would only serve to benefit from spending your time watching it. Thanks to BarZ. Really appreciate it.
Stan, I loved the start. Ringing the wheel. I learned about this in basic machine shop class back in 1972. A lesson I have never forgotten on many levels. I have never commented on your videos, but I have been watching for a very long time. Please keep the good stuff coming !! Your friend here in southwest Michigan, Cliff
You have expanded my mind. I am new to machining and the word "precision". Never realized things are taken to this degree of precise... I have only seen the old timer that takes the nail in the barn wall balance his lawn mower blade.
good video a couple of chime in tips. its faster and more accurate to simply use a big ball bearing which I have them all sizes up to 2 inch and they are dirt cheap getting a box of ten even. then a person can use any surface ground block to set it on or even on the surface plate and adjust till it does not roll. works great for everything even leveling big machines. another method for balancing is to masking tape on various items such as small washers that have been clipped in half---------and jb weld them onto the wheel next to the blotter NOTHING can make them come off not even hammer and chisel. they will not fly off. also carbide grit which is dirt cheap and heavier than steel can be used in the jb weld-works perfect if a person worries the washers may fly off which they wont. That area way up on the wheel will never come close to being used. that method also works excellent for the problem there is no way to balance pedestal grinder wheels. on the arbor I do in fact make and sell them and the way I do them is take any nice round shaft and drill and ream a hole and make a bushing and also jb weld that on. then next day stick the shank in lathe and rough it out to the taper. take to grinder if a person wants perfection and using one of the cheap spin fixtures spin on the taper using what tilt device a person has. relieve the middle of the arbor a bit so it locks in easy on the two contacts. on the leveling using the ball a person with a balancing stand with the two legs simply set any ground plate on the rails and level the same way using the three point screw legs. on the jb weld thing at various places (I am 67 retired molds prototypes )we had all top dollar stuff plus adjustable balancers which of course I simply used that. but the jb weld is really the way to go otherwise and is so fast you wont believe it. once the wheel is balanced a person can use it months or years and it wont go out of balance especially since a wheel really does not have to be balanced perfect to an atom. when people get the washboard cup marks--actually that is not out of balance it is because nobody tightens a wheel enough--when roughing the impact on the edges then bumps the wheel over slightly. thats all was in writing mood.
Thx for passing on your experience, it is golden information. Carbide grit to weight the JB Weld is a good tip! I had been thinking that lead shot or filings would be heavier than steel, and lead does have the advantage of being carvable if it needed trimming. My application is the balance and tuning of bench and pedestal grinders, only.
Thanks, interesting video. I'm not a machinist. I am a woodworking hobbyist. Nevertheless, very useful information. It's always good to learn a little about another trade. Because you can use basic principles of it for things you are interested in.
I know this is an old video but you have responded in the past so I am hoping you will again. You have the experience and have constructive feedback. I had an idea on balancing surface grinder wheels without drilling the stone but the hub nut. The idea is this, a three legged stool can be aligned into balance from adjusting two of the three legs. I have seen and used this on my surface stone base. Once softened, three 60 degree set face drilled and tapped holes on the hub locking nut. Left alone should not effect function or static balance of wheel but can be filled with fractured lead shot compressed and secured with set screws. Yes a lot of work with trial and error but reversible, non destructive to hub and wheel but cheap.
That idea sounds really good and is probably effective.However I would not want to: soften and compromise the hub nut; and/or have 3 set screws spinning around at high speed just chomping at the bit to take off into low earth orbit. I'd prefer the dedicated balancing nut, that looks like a very solid mechanism.
Have you ever tried a small amount of plumbers epoxy to balance the wheel? I use modeling clay on my rc truck wheels and it works great, same principle only the epoxy will harden and should have excellent grip on the grit. You are time limited with that stuff but if you go a little heavy you could dremel it off for a perfect balance.
When you grind for a living you will have your own personal wheels on your own personal hubs. Another trick is to use shim stock between the hub and mounting hole of the wheel ( hub O.D./ wheel I.D.). Then you can tighten the wheel and true it up. This enables you to start the wheel and continue grinding without redressing.
I use 7" wheels and have never taken the arbor off my J&s 540 grinder. The wheels are such a small mass that they are never balanced. Usually the 3 weights on the nut are equispaced and remain so. My wheels are not stored on the arbor they are just removed from the machine by quickly removing the nut. I was taught to test for ringing by hanging the wheel on one finger and tapping with a piece of wood, usually a file handle, never strike them with a piece of metal.
to level your table you should level the side with 2 adjustments first (front to back on yours) then adjust the single side, (left to right on yours) if you do it the other way around you will need to go back and redo the single nut as you found out :)
I am a diy type with a grinder in the garage. I know nothing about the proper way to do any of this I just go out, turn it on, and start grinding away. The first few minutes of this video taught me a safety step that may help avoid me hurting myself. Thank you.😷😷😷😷
Great video, Stan. I've made 5 balancing arbors but I still learned somethings from you. Thanks. Have you shown the difference in surface finishes between dry, mist and flood cooling? That would be a great video.
there wont be any difference but you will have discrepancies associated with heat when grinding dry. I run a candle over the wheel after dressing. a big difference on burn marks on the surface is using a new large wheel--the interface of heat is MUCH bigger and with a new large wheel the feed must be faster.
Good video Stan. How about doing a video on selecting grinding wheels. Grit, hardness, material, uses, etc.. I know there is a lot of different wheels and materials, just interested in basic common work
Hi Al, Wheel manufacturers have created a vast wasteland of blends and variants to choose from. If you look at the white wheels (Alum Ox) as the meat and potatoes standard and work out from there, it will be much clearer. Grit: 46 for heavy stock removal, 60 for a finer finish. Hardness: stay in the range of H-I-J-K-L (with H being the softest) choose hard wheels for soft steels, and soft wheels for hard steels. Bonding: Use a vitrified bond (wheel class V) there is not much need to stray away from this. If you work out from this standard, you can start playing with variants, start with abrasive blends (Alu Ox- Ruby) pink or (Alu Ox- Carborundum) brown wheels. Hope that helps, Z
@@ShadonHKW, this info on wheel composition is far more dense and cogent information than I have read in a magazine or book to date, thanks and subscribed!
I know this video is older and I'm not a machinist. But this video is awesome. Question: Did you make the balancing collars or did you purchase them? If you purchased them, a link to where you got them would be of great help.... Thx for sharing
Hi stan.thank you very much for sharing it will help a lot this idea of using leveled granite and with 2 parallel chocks as a wheel balancer, hugs from brazil
thx stan very good info on balancing your surface grinder wheels. im new to surface grinders as i have a harig super 612 being delivered from toronto to thunder bay ont canada in the next few days. that will accent my little hobby home machine welding shop. i have a bridgport clone atrump 2vsg 9x49 mill and a 14x40 precision tiwaneese metal lathe and all the tooling to go with the trade. so thx again for your input to the youtube machining community i find your content very good your a smart gye you remind me of me lol.
Use a 4" diameter 1/8" thick round plywood glued to the wheel. The balancing can then be done by shaving off material from this wood instead of making holes in the stone itself.
One little tidbit of info for everyone. I've noticed Norton wheels quality getting worse over the years and here is something to watch for. They are sending out wheels that are WAY out of balance and they have to know it. We have sent back wheels that are so far out of balance that the machine vibrates even after dressing. Their dirty little secret is they don't junk them out, they try to inject balance them. If you get a new wheel that looks like someone has let a pop can sweat out on it, you've got a second or customer returned wheel. They must inject a heavy liquid into the wheel to weight the one side. You can see it easy on the 46 - 100 grit white wheels, others it's not as easy to see. The problem is, being that big of a round, it doesn't come off equal as you dress into that area so it will throw your balance off again. It would have to be a V type inject as your surface area gets less as you dress. The balancing stuff goes almost to the outer edge of the wheel so it effects it quick. Your paying full price for a good wheel so personally I don't want to deal with. Just a heads up to all of you in the industry to keep an eye on.
On the red colored wheel, did you dress it before you balanced it? Likely you did but I missed the dressing of it. What a wonderful lesson in this video....like yours best. Thank you for sharing your experience and wisdom.
Do you have a video for medium sized bench grinders? Seems every bench grinder i have used wants to walk away! I dress the wheels and of course that helps huge! Some wheels just seem prone to vibration. I am not a machinist so some of your stuff is a bit too much for me. I do a lot of Lapidary, I grind stones with 4 inch wide 8 nch diameter rubber suburfaced, two piece aluminum compression hubs beneath sanding belts. I always use lower speeds, but some vibrations always seem to be inherent in my setup. It doesn't seem to affect the finished stones but it's just very annoying. Thanks for the time you share, and the content, your very good at what you do! Thank you again!
Well.....this is seriously awesome, very detailed, nice explanation. Im learning a lot from you. Hopefully I’ll purchase a surface grinder when I’m down there in June. Lots in your area. Going to have a watchathon with your channel today. Focusing on the surface grinder videos. You rock Sir. Thank You.
Ive been using a wheel with a crack in it for almost a year now.. the crack is at the center and about an inch out.. still have another 2” until the crack ….
Do they make a weighted glue or add lead fragments to crazy glue? Also why not remove material from the exposed blotter area? Not so much about waste but closer to center of gravity.
I was wondering about the leveling of the plate, I am a toolmaker in training so correct me if im wrong here. if you would level with three points like the setup beneath your plate, wouldnt it be quicker to level it front to back first. that way you should only have to level each axis once. Thanks for the informative video! -Jesse
Hi. Great informative video! Can I use balancing arbors on my consumer grinders? Also, why don't you use cbn or diamond stones? (Wheels) I'm not a machinist obviously but this video really helped me understand how to balance any wheel. Thanks
Seems like a nice accurate way to achieve static balance but not dynamic. Good enough I'd guess and considering the price of a dynamic balancing machine ......
Hey man great video! I am not a machinist! I do not know nuttin from nuttin Are you sure that’s how to balance the one without weights? It looks dangerous. Like it would crack the stone!!!!
Drilling on face of wheel is not advisable. Because it may generate hair-line crack inside the wheel and wheel can be broken during running. Instead of that you can pour some suitable balancing liquid materials on opposite side of heavy point to balance the wheel.
Stan, thanks for the video. I am fixing a surface grinder and have never used one, so am thrilled with this kind of information! Can you point me to the video about cleaning up a wheel arbor? thanks! Peter
StanGreat video as usual. Can you please tell us what company makes the balancing arbor you showed ? I have a Sopko but they are a bloody fortune.Thanks
Great video! Once you have drilled the wheel, does it tend to stay balanced if you take it out of the arbor and put it back? I guess I just need to get more arbors!
You should do the leveling with the Starrett perpendicular to your body FIRST. It has to change if you do parallel to your body first. The two screw side of the surface plate should be your first adjustment.
Stan, will it be necessary to check the balance of a wheel throughout the life of the wheel. Do they wear such that they go out of balance? That is should I be checking form time to time? Thank you.
Great, informative video, Stan! One question -- regarding your unbalanced arbor . . . is the unbalanced condition due to imperfections in the arbor? Are there denser portions of the grinding wheel? As you can tell, I know zilch about surface grinding. My grinding expertise is limited to bench and angle grinders. Thanks for the video. I noticed you were wearing shorts. Getting a little toasty in So. Cal? We've had temps in the low 70s here in San Mateo. Have a good one! Dave
Just my view here but these smaller grinding wheels dont need balancing never had a need to balance one Wouldnt personaly reccomend drilling the sides of any wheell but would advise dressing the sides in true with a diamond mounted on the mag chuck otherwise the ringing and being very clean on the assembly is spot on thanks for the video
Depends, chunk kept on the welding table can clean stubburn slag off welding rod tips or clean a spot on the metal. Quick and nasty deburring stone for around the metal stock rack, bandsaw, or chop saw. Might could use worn out wheels on really low speed grinders like knife sharpeners. Most of the time I break them into quarters so they'll never get mixed in with good wheels and fit the hand better.
There is no need to tap the wheel in different areas around the circumference. There is no need to rotate the wheel 180°. Do not mount the wheel on an Arbor of any kind. Support the wheel from a piece of wire or string and tap the wheel it either rings or it doesn't. You only have to tap it once, not multiple times around the wheel. When adjusting a surface plate, level the end first THEN level along the length.
I am no machinist.. but whats so special about that balancing arbor? Looks to me as it would be easy to make them as a small shop project, or am I missing something here?
Hi there, love the vid, where can I obtain ballance arbore for my bench grinder ( 12.7 mm bore ), tried every site in Europe with no results. Regards boawayn
Stan, do you know how to balance small (high-speed) stuff. I have a 16mm ruby pin that I want to spin at 40k. Is there a way without fancy balancing machines, or is it not too important so long as I dress it carfully?
Hopefully I will be doing a vid soon on my (New to me) air-bearing/turbine spindle (60Krpm!!) - I am a bit scared of it at the moment but once I get the hang I will be grinding some 5C fixtures. Watch this space! Hope you are all well, and thanks for the reply. :-)
Make sure you use quality mounted stones rated for the RPM, use caution on first start up (if they are going to fail, it will be in the first minute) Also check out this air bearing mount ua-cam.com/video/RxL8FWMMync/v-deo.html
I got some UK made mounted stones from a UK manufacturer. I called them and told them what I was doing and they told me they are good for 40m/s (which at 16mm = 47800rpm) so I am within their recommended max. They were very helpful actually. I may just ask them about balancing & dressing - see what they say. Thanks again Stan :-)
I don't have that kind of money 300$ bucks is the most I can spend a month and most the ones I have seen are 3000$ for old ones .I live in Canada Kelowna b.c.
No need to balance a 1/2 inch wide wheel. Over 30 years grinding and i have never had a need to balance one. I change wheels multiple times a day on some jobs. I would get nothing done but wheel balancing if i did that. 1 inch wide wheel thats going on a wet grinder till it wears out i would balance.
Thank you!!!! You are the first of the YT machining celebs who points out that a wheel ALWAYS needs to be run with a blotter on its sides! This is vitally important, not only for precision , but above all for the safety of the operator!
I have seen some horrid and dangerous setups on YT, where this ignored and very hairy situations are created !
Thank you!
Paddy
Very nicely explained, many thanks from a novice at bench grinding. I bought a cheap bench grinder from Harbor Freight - Central Machinery 8" wheels. It rocks so violently it was frightening. I had no clue what to do. This is an art not a science to balance wheels. Slowly learning how to make this work. Its not how pricey the machine is, but how well balanced. If I succeed in truing my wheels I will consider it a major achievement in woodworking. Thank you very much for your time and expertise. I learned a lot.
That was great! Thank you for taking the time to walk us through using both the balanced adapter and the traditional adapter. Very helpful!
I was amazed with this video and never knew there was such precisions to grinding wheels. Learned alot and thanks Stan.
You are AWESOME!!!!!!!!!! I've only been handed drips and drabs from the old-timers I've worked with... And it was always a case of either "Who was the (CENSORED WORD) that failed to teach you how to do it!!!!' or you (CENSORED WORD), are you a (CENSORED WORD) (CENSORED WORD) for not knowing how to do that.
Thank You, Thank You, Thank You for taking the time to not only post this, but also taking the time to explain this whole process in detail!!!!!
It's teacher's like you that I always wish I could learn from; we're in deep trouble of loosing this kind of knowledge for a long time the way things are going in industry today.......
Millennial alert!
LOSING, not LOOSING.
We are in danger of LOSING the English language to those who use it LOOSELY.
LOSE is to misplace or be robbed
LOOSE is a wheel that gets bobbed.
@@mjremy2605 the amount of people that do this blows my mind, there's no way it's a typo with how often you see it. Drives me crazy.
THIS. IS. FREE.
Can you believe the time we live in? This is 100% free to access information, maybe you had to watch and advertisement before this video, but if you have an internet connected device, you got to watch this video for free.
Incredible. Absolutely incredible.
Thank you Stan. I bought the same Sopko balancing arbors. Didn't even include instructions. Not impressed. At least now I can balance my wheels and get back to work. Tks, Gilles
Thanks Stan! Best explanation on the web.
I arrived here whilst looking for balancing a hobby use bench grinder.
The content's way over what I'm looking to do (or have the tools for) but despite that, I'm here to the end, learned much & found the process fascinating.
Thanks.
There is a great deal of incredibly good information in this video. If you are new to surface grinding you would only serve to benefit from spending your time watching it. Thanks to BarZ. Really appreciate it.
Stan, I loved the start. Ringing the wheel. I learned about this in basic machine shop class back in 1972. A lesson I have never forgotten on many levels. I have never commented on your videos, but I have been watching for a very long time. Please keep the good stuff coming !! Your friend here in southwest Michigan, Cliff
Thanks for (lurking) on the channel, thanks for the view and comment.
Very informative, totally educational, you surpassed your goals. Thanks for taking the time to do this, much apprecuated👍
You have expanded my mind. I am new to machining and the word "precision". Never realized things are taken to this degree of precise... I have only seen the old timer that takes the nail in the barn wall balance his lawn mower blade.
It gets much more precise than even this.
good video a couple of chime in tips. its faster and more accurate to simply use a big ball bearing which I have them all sizes up to 2 inch and they are dirt cheap getting a box of ten even. then a person can use any surface ground block to set it on or even on the surface plate and adjust till it does not roll. works great for everything even leveling big machines. another method for balancing is to masking tape on various items such as small washers that have been clipped in half---------and jb weld them onto the wheel next to the blotter NOTHING can make them come off not even hammer and chisel. they will not fly off. also carbide grit which is dirt cheap and heavier than steel can be used in the jb weld-works perfect if a person worries the washers may fly off which they wont. That area way up on the wheel will never come close to being used. that method also works excellent for the problem there is no way to balance pedestal grinder wheels.
on the arbor I do in fact make and sell them and the way I do them is take any nice round shaft and drill and ream a hole and make a bushing and also jb weld that on. then next day stick the shank in lathe and rough it out to the taper. take to grinder if a person wants perfection and using one of the cheap spin fixtures spin on the taper using what tilt device a person has. relieve the middle of the arbor a bit so it locks in easy on the two contacts. on the leveling using the ball a person with a balancing stand with the two legs simply set any ground plate on the rails and level the same way using the three point screw legs.
on the jb weld thing at various places (I am 67 retired molds prototypes )we had all top dollar stuff plus adjustable balancers which of course I simply used that. but the jb weld is really the way to go otherwise and is so fast you wont believe it. once the wheel is balanced a person can use it months or years and it wont go out of balance especially since a wheel really does not have to be balanced perfect to an atom. when people get the washboard cup marks--actually that is not out of balance it is because nobody tightens a wheel enough--when roughing the impact on the edges then bumps the wheel over slightly. thats all was in writing mood.
Thx for passing on your experience, it is golden information. Carbide grit to weight the JB Weld is a good tip! I had been thinking that lead shot or filings would be heavier than steel, and lead does have the advantage of being carvable if it needed trimming. My application is the balance and tuning of bench and pedestal grinders, only.
>> big ball bearing - is just the best.
>> tape on various items ...---------and jb weld them
so simple it hurts my brain ;)
Excellent demonstration! Thank You, Sir
Thanks, interesting video. I'm not a machinist. I am a woodworking hobbyist. Nevertheless, very useful information. It's always good to learn a little about another trade. Because you can use basic principles of it for things you are interested in.
Great explanation and demonstration.
this is above my harborfreight vari speed 8" B.G. :-) Always learn something here. Thanks mister.
I know this is an old video but you have responded in the past so I am hoping you will again. You have the experience and have constructive feedback. I had an idea on balancing surface grinder wheels without drilling the stone but the hub nut. The idea is this, a three legged stool can be aligned into balance from adjusting two of the three legs. I have seen and used this on my surface stone base. Once softened, three 60 degree set face drilled and tapped holes on the hub locking nut. Left alone should not effect function or static balance of wheel but can be filled with fractured lead shot compressed and secured with set screws. Yes a lot of work with trial and error but reversible, non destructive to hub and wheel but cheap.
Sounds interesting, if you try it, let me know how it goes.
That idea sounds really good and is probably effective.However I would not want to: soften and compromise the hub nut; and/or have 3 set screws spinning around at high speed just chomping at the bit to take off into low earth orbit. I'd prefer the dedicated balancing nut, that looks like a very solid mechanism.
Have you ever tried a small amount of plumbers epoxy to balance the wheel? I use modeling clay on my rc truck wheels and it works great, same principle only the epoxy will harden and should have excellent grip on the grit. You are time limited with that stuff but if you go a little heavy you could dremel it off for a perfect balance.
When you grind for a living you will have your own personal wheels on your own personal hubs. Another trick is to use shim stock between the hub and mounting hole of the wheel ( hub O.D./ wheel I.D.). Then you can tighten the wheel and true it up. This enables you to start the wheel and continue grinding without redressing.
Nice Job Stan! I enjoyed and was informed.
Now to balance that pile of wheels I got with my Boyer Schultz grinder.
_Dan_
I use 7" wheels and have never taken the arbor off my J&s 540 grinder. The wheels are such a small mass that they are never balanced. Usually the 3 weights on the nut are equispaced and remain so. My wheels are not stored on the arbor they are just removed from the machine by quickly removing the nut. I was taught to test for ringing by hanging the wheel on one finger and tapping with a piece of wood, usually a file handle, never strike them with a piece of metal.
to level your table you should level the side with 2 adjustments first (front to back on yours) then adjust the single side, (left to right on yours) if you do it the other way around you will need to go back and redo the single nut as you found out :)
I am a diy type with a grinder in the garage. I know nothing about the proper way to do any of this I just go out, turn it on, and start grinding away.
The first few minutes of this video taught me a safety step that may help avoid me hurting myself. Thank you.😷😷😷😷
MJCPeters you have a pedestal grinder or a surface grinder?
@@chuckphilpot7756 Sorry, bench grinder. Shows how little I know.
That is a very nice balancing arbor. Nice video, enjoyed.
Great video, Stan. I've made 5 balancing arbors but I still learned somethings from you. Thanks. Have you shown the difference in surface finishes between dry, mist and flood cooling? That would be a great video.
there wont be any difference but you will have discrepancies associated with heat when grinding dry. I run a candle over the wheel after dressing. a big difference on burn marks on the surface is using a new large wheel--the interface of heat is MUCH bigger and with a new large wheel the feed must be faster.
Im always amazed that a little diamond can stand being ground like that
Nice job Stan. That balancing arbor looks like a good shop project.
Nice work, nice video, like it, best regards from Brazil, Ary Prado
Good video Stan. How about doing a video on selecting grinding wheels. Grit, hardness, material, uses, etc.. I know there is a lot of different wheels and materials, just interested in basic common work
Hi Al,
Wheel manufacturers have created a vast wasteland of blends and variants to choose from. If you look at the white wheels (Alum Ox) as the meat and potatoes standard and work out from there, it will be much clearer. Grit: 46 for heavy stock removal, 60 for a finer finish. Hardness: stay in the range of H-I-J-K-L (with H being the softest) choose hard wheels for soft steels, and soft wheels for hard steels. Bonding: Use a vitrified bond (wheel class V) there is not much need to stray away from this.
If you work out from this standard, you can start playing with variants, start with abrasive blends (Alu Ox- Ruby) pink or (Alu Ox- Carborundum) brown wheels.
Hope that helps,
Z
Thanks Stan. It does help
@@ShadonHKW, this info on wheel composition is far more dense and cogent information than I have read in a magazine or book to date, thanks and subscribed!
Thank you for this vidio Stan.
There were a lot of bits of info put together that will help me
get started using my, new to me, universal grinder.
1:20 really caught me off guard😂😂
I know this video is older and I'm not a machinist. But this video is awesome. Question: Did you make the balancing collars or did you purchase them? If you purchased them, a link to where you got them would be of great help.... Thx for sharing
Hi stan.thank you very much for sharing it will help a lot this idea of using leveled granite and with 2 parallel chocks as a wheel balancer, hugs from brazil
thx stan very good info on balancing your surface grinder wheels. im new to surface grinders as i have a harig super 612 being delivered from toronto to thunder bay ont canada in the next few days. that will accent my little hobby home machine welding shop. i have a bridgport clone atrump 2vsg 9x49 mill and a 14x40 precision tiwaneese metal lathe and all the tooling to go with the trade. so thx again for your input to the youtube machining community i find your content very good your a smart gye you remind me of me lol.
I am so late. It very good and helpful.
thanks for the videos I recently purchased a brown and Sharpe 2 and the information is greatly appreciated
Use a 4" diameter 1/8" thick round plywood glued to the wheel. The balancing can then be done by shaving off material from this wood instead of making holes in the stone itself.
Brilliant, Frank, thx!
Awesome video, thank you for sharing.
Great Video Stan. Really well done.
One little tidbit of info for everyone. I've noticed Norton wheels quality getting worse over the years and here is something to watch for. They are sending out wheels that are WAY out of balance and they have to know it. We have sent back wheels that are so far out of balance that the machine vibrates even after dressing. Their dirty little secret is they don't junk them out, they try to inject balance them. If you get a new wheel that looks like someone has let a pop can sweat out on it, you've got a second or customer returned wheel. They must inject a heavy liquid into the wheel to weight the one side. You can see it easy on the 46 - 100 grit white wheels, others it's not as easy to see. The problem is, being that big of a round, it doesn't come off equal as you dress into that area so it will throw your balance off again. It would have to be a V type inject as your surface area gets less as you dress. The balancing stuff goes almost to the outer edge of the wheel so it effects it quick. Your paying full price for a good wheel so personally I don't want to deal with. Just a heads up to all of you in the industry to keep an eye on.
AFFECTS, not EFFECT.
Balancing AFFECTS the wheel. Verb - an action being done.
Grinding has a great EFFECT on the wheel. Noun - a thing.
@@mjremy2605 Your to humerous. LOL
just wondering why You dont make a arbor for the wheels only that way one can switch arbors?
On the red colored wheel, did you dress it before you balanced it? Likely you did but I missed the dressing of it. What a wonderful lesson in this video....like yours best. Thank you for sharing your experience and wisdom.
Video was running long, that segment landed on the cutting room floor.
Do you have a video for medium sized bench grinders? Seems every bench grinder i have used wants to walk away! I dress the wheels and of course that helps huge! Some wheels just seem prone to vibration. I am not a machinist so some of your stuff is a bit too much for me. I do a lot of Lapidary, I grind stones with 4 inch wide 8 nch diameter rubber suburfaced, two piece aluminum compression hubs beneath sanding belts. I always use lower speeds, but some vibrations always seem to be inherent in my setup. It doesn't seem to affect the finished stones but it's just very annoying. Thanks for the time you share, and the content, your very good at what you do! Thank you again!
Great video. It’s been a while, so this was a good refresher. ☺️👍
Well.....this is seriously awesome, very detailed, nice explanation. Im learning a lot from you. Hopefully I’ll purchase a surface grinder when I’m down there in June. Lots in your area. Going to have a watchathon with your channel today. Focusing on the surface grinder videos. You rock Sir. Thank You.
you will not survive if you take more than a few seconds to balance a wheel
Hey Stan...Its Tom V..... I just bought 12 of those Sopko balancers probably from the same guy you bought yours from. Gone from famine to feast.
When it rains, it pours .... wanna sell some? Ha ha ..
Send me your email address and ph. no. I might be willing to part with one or two. Just have to offer a friend of mine first refusal.
Tom Vitagliano can you tell me where to buy one
Simple with excellent results... Well done... ;)
Ive been using a wheel with a crack in it for almost a year now.. the crack is at the center and about an inch out.. still have another 2” until the crack ….
Do they make a weighted glue or add lead fragments to crazy glue? Also why not remove material from the exposed blotter area? Not so much about waste but closer to center of gravity.
Extremely useful. Thank you.
I was wondering about the leveling of the plate, I am a toolmaker in training so correct me if im wrong here. if you would level with three points like the setup beneath your plate, wouldnt it be quicker to level it front to back first. that way you should only have to level each axis once.
Thanks for the informative video!
-Jesse
Didn't really think about it, just grabbed a handful of jacking bolt. Your probably right.
Good stuff Stan, enjoyed!
ATB, Robin
i learned a lot ...... thanks
It's very good and helpful
Hi. Great informative video! Can I use balancing arbors on my consumer grinders?
Also, why don't you use cbn or diamond stones? (Wheels)
I'm not a machinist obviously but this video really helped me understand how to balance any wheel. Thanks
@1:12 there is a clearly visible crack on the grinding wheel straight at 3 o clock.
Seems like a nice accurate way to achieve static balance but not dynamic. Good enough I'd guess and considering the price of a dynamic balancing machine ......
zero need a wheel does not have to be balanced to trillionths
Hey man great video!
I am not a machinist!
I do not know nuttin from nuttin
Are you sure that’s how to balance the one without weights? It looks dangerous. Like it would crack the stone!!!!
Молодец, парень!👍 Я тоже так делаю. Интересный способ проверки абразивного камня на звук.
Drilling on face of wheel is not advisable. Because it may generate hair-line crack inside the wheel and wheel can be broken during running. Instead of that you can pour some suitable balancing liquid materials on opposite side of heavy point to balance the wheel.
Very informative, thanks for making the video.
Stan, thanks for the video. I am fixing a surface grinder and have never used one, so am thrilled with this kind of information!
Can you point me to the video about cleaning up a wheel arbor? thanks!
Peter
Try this ua-cam.com/video/GwImLZ6dJeU/v-deo.html
I was just looking for a better video of this!!!! Thanks Stan!
Would some shop made washers big enough to drill be better?
I don't like making divits in a wheel.
Thanks
yes that works I do that for bench grinders.
StanGreat video as usual. Can you please tell us what company makes the balancing arbor you showed ? I have a Sopko but they are a bloody fortune.Thanks
Hi Tom,
That is in fact a Sopko, picked up used on e-bay. Your right, new ones are pricey.
Thank you for your response. Warm regards.
Great video!
Once you have drilled the wheel, does it tend to stay balanced if you take it out of the arbor and put it back?
I guess I just need to get more arbors!
yes, the drilled wheel will stay balanced for the most part if you take it off the arbor, it may need some touch up, but not much.
You should do the leveling with the Starrett perpendicular to your body FIRST. It has to change if you do parallel to your body first. The two screw side of the surface plate should be your first adjustment.
very interesting. and helpful, thank you
Stan, will it be necessary to check the balance of a wheel throughout the life of the wheel. Do they wear such that they go out of balance? That is should I be checking form time to time? Thank you.
As the diameter decreases, so does the need for balancing, I havent noticed any of mine acting up over their useful life.
Thank you, much appreciated!
i've been tlearning alot about Suface plates and Suface grinders thx Stan
Always great info, thanks Stan.
Great, informative video, Stan! One question -- regarding your unbalanced arbor . . . is the unbalanced condition due to imperfections in the arbor? Are there denser portions of the grinding wheel? As you can tell, I know zilch about surface grinding. My grinding expertise is limited to bench and angle grinders. Thanks for the video.
I noticed you were wearing shorts. Getting a little toasty in So. Cal? We've had temps in the low 70s here in San Mateo.
Have a good one!
Dave
88 the other day, we are ramping up. wheel density is the cause for imbalance.
Just my view here but these smaller grinding wheels dont need balancing never had a need to balance one Wouldnt personaly reccomend drilling the sides of any wheell but would advise dressing the sides in true with a diamond mounted on the mag chuck otherwise the ringing and being very clean on the assembly is spot on thanks for the video
Is there any use for junk grinding wheels? I have a few that I haven't thrown away because I thought I may be able to make new tools with them
Rob Mckennie throw them at people you don't like
I was thinking more along the lines of homemade abrasive stones
Depends, chunk kept on the welding table can clean stubburn slag off welding rod tips or clean a spot on the metal. Quick and nasty deburring stone for around the metal stock rack, bandsaw, or chop saw. Might could use worn out wheels on really low speed grinders like knife sharpeners.
Most of the time I break them into quarters so they'll never get mixed in with good wheels and fit the hand better.
Dan Gelbart uses his water jet cutter to make small wheels from big ones but not all of us are as rich as he. :>(
anonymic79 the "elbow grease blanchard" actually exists, it's called a levigator
When ringing a wheel, it's best to use the wooden handle of a hammer, not something metal
I use cracked wheels to make smaller hand shaping stones!!
Excellent. thanks for the video.
There is no need to tap the wheel in different areas around the circumference. There is no need to rotate the wheel 180°.
Do not mount the wheel on an Arbor of any kind.
Support the wheel from a piece of wire or string and tap the wheel it either rings or it doesn't. You only have to tap it once, not multiple times around the wheel.
When adjusting a surface plate, level the end first THEN level along the length.
I am no machinist.. but whats so special about that balancing arbor? Looks to me as it would be easy to make them as a small shop project, or am I missing something here?
One of those thing easier to buy than make, unless you are tooled up just for making them.
Hi there, love the vid, where can I obtain ballance arbore for my bench grinder ( 12.7 mm bore ), tried every site in Europe with no results. Regards boawayn
Great video! Thanks
why do angle grinder discs date expire but not bench grinder wheels?
They expire? Wild never seen or paid attention
@@zHxIxPxPxIxEz discs made in the last few years have expiry dates on them
More prone to shattering probably?
Once it is balanced if you walk to one end of the plate is it enough to make the wheel want to roll off?
If I jump up and down real hard .... maybe ...
Can you buy the balancing arbor or do you have to make it if you could buy it can you give me the location of where you can buy it
www.wmsopko.com/sopko_04_to_30.htm
nice work, thanks for the lesson,,
Enjoyed...good discussion/instructions
Don't feel bad, I too can deflect concrete!
Stan very informative video.
Stan, do you know how to balance small (high-speed) stuff. I have a 16mm ruby pin that I want to spin at 40k. Is there a way without fancy balancing machines, or is it not too important so long as I dress it carfully?
Very little chance of those being out of balance if dressed true, good to see you Roo.
Hopefully I will be doing a vid soon on my (New to me) air-bearing/turbine spindle (60Krpm!!) - I am a bit scared of it at the moment but once I get the hang I will be grinding some 5C fixtures. Watch this space! Hope you are all well, and thanks for the reply. :-)
Sneak-e-peek: ua-cam.com/video/pJs2UuRukhg/v-deo.html
Make sure you use quality mounted stones rated for the RPM, use caution on first start up (if they are going to fail, it will be in the first minute) Also check out this air bearing mount ua-cam.com/video/RxL8FWMMync/v-deo.html
I got some UK made mounted stones from a UK manufacturer. I called them and told them what I was doing and they told me they are good for 40m/s (which at 16mm = 47800rpm) so I am within their recommended max. They were very helpful actually. I may just ask them about balancing & dressing - see what they say. Thanks again Stan :-)
Many thanks.
I have a mill and a metal lathe and a small foundry and I know how too do my own castings can I make a surface grinder ??? .
Sure, but why? They are relatively cheap.
I don't have that kind of money 300$ bucks is the most I can spend a month and most the ones I have seen are 3000$ for old ones .I live in Canada Kelowna b.c.
Check out Dave gingery's books. He doesn't cover building a surface grinder, but he does build a lathe, shaper, milling machines, and drill press
thanks I have seem them all
Joe Don Baker?
The slam test will find the bad wheel every time
Very Nice !
No need to balance a 1/2 inch wide wheel. Over 30 years grinding and i have never had a need to balance one. I change wheels multiple times a day on some jobs. I would get nothing done but wheel balancing if i did that. 1 inch wide wheel thats going on a wet grinder till it wears out i would balance.
Thank you, good video.
Don't forget to re-dress the wheel after balancing to keep it running perfectly true!...
You sound just like John Goodman!