(1/3) Making a Tailstock Hex Die Holder for Tapping/Cutting Threads on the Mini Lathe
Вставка
- Опубліковано 15 гру 2017
- This video is how to make a tailstock hex shaped die holder on the MINI LATHE. (MUCH) More information below!
Please like and subscribe if this was helpful!
Stuff from this video:
Green Loctite: amzn.to/2qhVSAd
Tap and Die Set: amzn.to/2pBk6SB
Layout Fluid: amzn.to/2qhZeDr
Knurling Tool: amzn.to/2pI4fCq
Part 2: • (2/3) Making a Tailsto...
Part 3: • (3/3) Making a Tailsto...
Lathe: amzn.to/2nVBrEc
Stuff on the lathe:
Quick Change Tool Holder: amzn.to/2oZtFee
Tailstock Drill Chuck: amzn.to/2pmE0jX
Lathe tools:
Boring Bar: amzn.to/2pmy0b1
Carbide Tools: amzn.to/2oRZWax
Parting Tool: amzn.to/2nVCeW1
Center Bits: amzn.to/2oRRV5n
Drill Bits: amzn.to/2oz9W76
Other stuff:
Cutting oil: amzn.to/2ofkPaY
Mini Lathe troubleshooting guide: littlemachineshop.com/referenc...
Controller board wiring configuration: imgur.com/KIEzu92
The real version of the motor controller: amzn.to/2orw43F
Datasheet for the KBIC-120: www.galco.com/buy/KB-Electron...
Super nice guy who repairs the controller boards: olduhfguy.com/ - Наука та технологія
Excellent! Thanks so much for this video and the thorough step-by-step instruction. It's nice to see that good results can be obtained without having all the machining tools that a machinist has at their disposal.
Twas a noble sacrifice. The tool gave itself so you could cut more precise threads. It's devotion to precision shall be remembered.
Seriously though. I think you have a wonderful idea.
Tip for knurling; use cutting oil, it keeps the teeth on the wheels from clogging and thus helps with registration, giving a cleaner knurl.
I did something similar by cutting a half inch drive extension off and chucking the square end up in the tailstock. Then I put the appropriate socket on the extension. Worked out so well, I ended up welding the socket to the extension. I use it pretty much every day.
Nice! Can't wait to see part 2.
Excellent work done. Very interesting to see the job done.
It turned out great. It looks like you are dealing with the same problem I have. Too small of a Lathe makes it a lot harder to do things. But you worked with it and it turned out nice.
very easy to watch,not complicated like some of the others that other people make...thanks ...Ray
Very nice video! Certainly my kind of tolerances! lol
Nice job Tim! I will check out the rest of the series..
Seems to be the right tool for the job! I would add that the correct size socket is usually available from a pawn shop for $1 - $2. This will save the handle & provide better metal.
Awesome, and you just have given me a idea if I have a socket of a project to do coming weeks
Let me know how it turns out!
yes! i wanted to see you make it!! awesome!
Cool Video! I learned quite a bit! Thanks for Sharing! Have A Super Week!.....Gus
Thanks so much! I really enjoy comments like these :)
I use a 1" deepwell socket with a modified extension to hold my hex dies in the tail stock.
Like your work it’s inventive and comes out looking good. One suggestion is that for your drill press vise think about mounting it to a 3/4” plywood base approximately the size of the drill press table with some removable fasteners. This will give you a more stable vise that won’t be moved by the drill press action and you work piece will be more stable and come out cleaner. Your could also use some spring clamps to hold the plywood in place once you center your work piece. It’s a simple jig that improves the work and relieves the pressure on you trying to keep the vise steady.
Thanks for this suggestion. I've been so frustrated with my drill press vise and this motivated me to a solution.
أنا مغربي ولا يسعني إلا أن أقول لك عمل ممتاز واصل
Nice job. I think when I make one, I’ll just go buy a cheap socket and use that for the hex setting.
Nicely done. Really liking all your mini lathe vids. I noticed to get your workpiece concentric you tried resetting the workpiece in the chuck multiple times to get it to turn as good as you could. I did the same thing when I was just starting. A tip for that is to get a dial indicator (with mag base) and slightly tapping the workpiece with a soft-blow hammer where there's runout, and you'll then be able to get it pretty concentric - probably down to around 5 thou of runout for those Chinese lathes/chucks.
Absolutely brilliant!
Thanks!
thats pretty awesome man
Hex dies are designed for repairing threads not cutting new ones. Round adjustable dies are for making new threads and are way more expensive than hex dies.
this is a great idea, i saw this video a few days ago, did not have time to watch it then, i was wondering how you were gonna cut that hex out...lol
Very nice 👍
Clever idea!
Very good. Near and workman like.
I use Tapmatic (two types) for all my tapping but you can save a LOT of money for the lathe operations in aluminum by using WD-40.
nicely done
Cool project, very usefull! :-)
eating your eye and your heart well done
very nice...
Trabalho excelente.
Find some old sockets in your junk tools, or go to Harbor Freight and buy a couple- chuck them up and weld a piece of tube to the end that you can grip with your tailstock chuck. With a cheap socket set and a length of tube you can make a whole set that will fit any size re-threading die.
Fantastic video, thanks
Thanks for watching!
TimNummy you got me back into my Chinese lathe, it's the bigger version of yours, I think it's 700mm between centres
nice job, although ............... I think I would use a SET SCREW instead of a socket head screw. Then you will have nothing to hurt your hand when using the tool for set up on threading. .... Just a thought
Hmmm yes...
The old "decorative stripes" technique. 👍
Ótimo acabamento.
Muy bueno amigo👍👍
Parabéns muito bacana
You may be interested to know that the hex dies are technically "rethreading dies" and technically don't have the appropriate geometry for cutting the nicest threads from raw bar... although it works a lot of the time.
Interesting and really good to know - I'll have to consider getting some actual cutting dies. Thanks!
Nice project.
MDShunk I am willing to be corrected by more knowledgeable viewers but I think you will find that it depends on which part of the world you are in. Back in the UK hex sizes were sold for cutting virgin threads where as in Aus where I am now they have round for new and hex for rethreading. My set I brought from the uk when I came over they were a Japanese
brandand and hex.
Mike
Correct, MDShunk. Hex dies are known as "Die Nuts" and are intended for chasing existing threads. Round Dies are for cutting a new thread from scratch. Thats why they have a facility for tightening or loosening the die, in order to compensate for either matching an existing, possibly a worn thread, or to match a "tight" or a "loose" thread pitch.
@@TimNummy 0p₩p₩'
byymkk
Very nice sir
(The dies and tap in this case allow you to repair any type of threading by hand) ,thats what it says in the link you gave.these are not for cutting threads.buy the hss tap and dies.i wondered how you got the hex for the die,good idea.
Steel screw in aluminum thread.
How long does the thread last? Or is Achilles' heel...
А почему свёрла так колбасит???
Но в целом задумка очень даже отличная:) SUPER.
Can a hexagonal titanium dipped HSS die actually cut threads as in making fresh ones out of new metal not being threaded yet? I was thinking that's for circle die tool because of another video I watched.
I would love to make one of these sometime, I can never get the dies to go on straight. I might suggest using a file to create the interior hex shape though, files can be very accurate with a little patience
N ok rmally, if die goes on crooked, its because you didnt turn down diameter far enough. The die will catch on one side, then cut threads causing a crooked die. I believe you have to go .006" under on diameter for a die to stary correctly and have a good chamfer on end of part for it to start. Never compare to a bolt or such because those threads are made with high pressure plates that form, not cut the threads, the plates literally squeeze with thousands and thousands of pounds to form the threads. Even when single point threading on a lathe is again different then using a die.
Can you do a video on making tunsten darts barrels,tia man..
You will probably want to add a handle at some point especially if you intend to use dies to form taper threads as I find that some of the larger sides can take a lot of force to cut.
I'm still thinking about that - thanks!
@@TimNummy Maybe fine a way to use a 1/2 inch socket wrench...
In my pre lathe ownership days I once had to thread a 2 foot long 1.125" diameter bar by hand, but the store I purchased the die from did not have holders for it. My solution was to 10" long 3/4" bars to the side of the die. That and a breaker bar gave me the leverage I needed. I have never again needed that size of die, but it sits, available if needed. Lacking that solution, with your design in a larger size a pipe wrench would be needed. However, for smaller bolts such as 0.5" or less the lack of a handle shouldn't matter. Of course simply cutting the threads with the lathe may be an option also. :)
parabéns
A steady rest would’ve been nice for that I would think. One for your mini lathe shouldn’t be too much and I’m thinking it’d come in handy for those larger diameter longer pieces like that.
Nice
Nicely done Tim. You are loosing concentricity with re-chucking your work piece. I know this is unavoidable in some cases, but make yourself a pusher bearing, that will help considerably to re-establish true center. Also plan to support the end with the tail stock when you have such a large overhang especially important when using a three jaw chuck.
Máquinas de fabricação de correntes
The hex part you thought was some type of steel is a Die Cast Alloy, probably zinc alloy, you can tell by the ejection pin marks on it, the alloy is injected into the die at almost the solidifying temperature.
The hex dies are thread finishers, NOT Thread Cutting. You don’t mention that.
Cheers
Noel
That is not Zinc the hex, since you know nothing about how diecasting works, you shouldn't even be saying anything. He did an excellent job!!
I went through a few of your videos, not sure if I missed it or didn't catch the right video, what grit sand paper and what polishing do you use to correct the finish on your turning? I've cleaned up a lot of my finish with just tooling, but want to take it to that next step of professional. Maybe worth a 60s video?
Thanks! Following along intently as I'm very much in the same boat with my mini lathe!
Thanks so much! It sounds like you didn't go back far enough as I did a video on just polishing :) Check it out and let me know what you think! ua-cam.com/video/VPmIRAz0XhY/v-deo.html
TimNummy you are right, when I looked under the videos tab, it was plain as day! I did not see it listed under the main page videos. Thank you for that!
I made a very basic pen, my first thing I turned. Before I blue it, I want to take most of the surface imperfections out. I've saved your video you linked for future turnings (chess pieces)!
Hi there I would to buy one of die holder please with 16 mm die .can I use it with ratchet spanner.
Hey man, I really like that die holder Looks great. Like that knurling too also. Where did you get it ?
Thanks! I don't remember if I got it from eBay or Amazon but here's the link to it on Amazon: amzn.to/2pI4fCq
Glenn Johnson
how long is the aluminum stock you used for the die holder?
Maybe drill 1/2" hole for leverage bar
i don't quite understand the need for a die holder in the tail stock, unless you need to thread long rods that pass through the spindle. otherwise I just put the DIE in the chuck and the rod in the tailstock chuck.
How far in are you drilling into the the aluminum?
Lo maximo
Did notice while drilling bore your tailstock looked very loose
It is very loose ha
Bijendrgiri tpesawarchauhan
Dá pra por a orta de abri a rosca no outro lado👍👍👍👍👍
Cool, but where do you get you aluminum stock?
eBay or there's a metal shop near me that does a lot of commercial orders and has a pretty big shelf of drops that they sell for a discount.
Nice project!! But I guess you could have put those screws without a head, it would looks better.
set screws
RideThroughLife yes...I forgot the name, thanks
I have set screws - that was more of a mock up... I have an idea for the final piece ;)
TimNummy Ah ok. By the way it was too nice for a simple mock up.
@@TimNummy I call such 'at home inventions' 'proof of concept' productions. Hopefully some day I will hit upon one neat enough to patent and sell a few zillion of. :)
Так и не понял, для чего по следу чернила размечал?
What kind of bandsaw do you have?
Hey! It's a 10" Delta - I think DiResta recommends the 14" Delta though if you're going to get one.
I was wondering - the lathe is advertised as being able to cut threads, but there is no dial on the leadscrew like the Harbor Freight lathe. Anyone know if that dial is really necessary for that operation?
Craig S never used a thread dial in my life and I have threaded a lot of stuff. You just can't disengage the half nuts
How it is work?
😎👍
If you do not have a milling I can tell you how you can make it using a hand drill a motortool and a lathe but this is a very hand art Craft...
I would guess the tap handle was die cast zinc. A test with some vinegar would confirm
nooooo knowing your metals would
I know you're doing this just as a hobby but never unmount your piece and mount it again...for most of your works it's okay, but it's never centered entirely
This is the reason 4 jaw independent chucks are still in use today.
I like your project. Like and subscribe
Hey
what is the name of that tool to make grip on that metal
Please send me the link of that tool
It's called knerling tool for make tool grip on metal
You know your using Thread chasers right? The correct dies to CUT threads are round!! lol Start all over and do it again!!! LMAO
317 people are not machinist. thanks for the video
Uriel Ramirez well this guy obv isn’t
What is the lathe machine you are using ? Can you help ?
I always put everything I use in the description, but this is the lathe: amzn.to/2nVBrEc Thanks for watching!
Now make a brass thumb screw.
Зачем так заморачиваться ведь обычные плашки всегда круглые, я думаю что в этой работе нет смысла!
This is a good idea but try to work cleaner, ...I don't know if your hex is really centered, it may be thousands away the center because of this dirty job. ALWAYS give a turning cut into the piece to be sure is 100% cilindrical first. I recomend you to watch "This Old Tony" channel , he may give you Ideas to do a better job.
GET THIS MAN A STEADYREST!
My steady rest wasn't big enough :/
Зачем торец размечал, штангена нет?
I just had to chuckle that a machinist cannot sharpen his large drill bit. 🤣
Tm⚘🖒
I bet its not magnetic, like some sort of steel.
Чтож там за жесткость у станка, если он дюральку с трудом точит? Зачем силуминтиевый ручной держатель портить? Можно было взять головку и сделать отпуск, потом отрезать болгарином. Или вообще, сделать внутренний шестигранник напильником. Там работы на десять минут, размечать дольше. Ну а за старания, то лайк. Хоч й нимэць, а роботяща людына. :)
You don't have to use a die. An old socket works better.
An old socket instead of the die holder? That could have worked too - then I would have had to make a tailstock socket holder
Me as a machinist hurts this
what name this tool 12:34
Hey!
Knurling Tool: amzn.to/2pI4fCq
Why didn't you just use a deep socket of the appropriate size.
It would have been more expensive than the cost of materials, I still would have needed a way to attach it to the tail stock, it probably would still be too short to be stable, and it wouldn't have made for a good video.
Probably not steel, probably ZAMAC alloy...
En español
You will save a lot of money on your tooling by using Banggod instead of Amazon.
Резать плашкой!? Для этого есть токарный станок. Я уже и не помню когда плашкой резьбу нарезал. А если и придётся резать плашкой то для этого есть нормальные плашкодержатели ещё из СССР. А тратить металл на такое безделье? Неё это не серьёзно.
기계작동법 많이 배워야 겠다
너무 어설픈 작업
You routinely leave way too much unsupported material hanging out of the chuck. Not only is it dangerous it is wonderfully inaccurate. I mean I can see the wobble at the end of what's going to be a threading tool with the naked eye.
Keep in mind that the chuck only has 3/4" through hole... Turning anything with a larger diameter has to be done with the length of the part hanging out.
@@TimNummy That's what live centers, dead centers, steady rests and end rests are for. I cringed just watching you turn there. I think if your cuts were just a tad heavier than they already were that piece might have worked loose.
Mate your machine is not zeroed at the centre. It's off axis that's why it keeps removing material with the same drill bit even after you have gone thru several times. Accuracy is not there.
Enough, I cannot watch any more, I quit when you began to do the knurling... what a disaster!!! I am surprised how the tool did not mounted to the piece, knurling without a fixed center.