i've got it!!! you're the Alton Brown of Woodworking!!! that's why you're so danged watchable. you need to be here on camera for the world to enjoy. i truly appreciate your presentations and your skills. you are to be admired
Love your videos! I'm a beginner woodworker at 70 years old. If I could afford to monetarily I would, but we are both retired on Social Security, so any extra monies are going towards a very few tools and stock. Keep putting out these wonderful and informative videos. Thanks again.
Using hand powered tools, in good condition and of good quality, is a joy. Learning the skills to use them is a satisfying journey. Using them is peaceful and quiet. After learning to rip and square stock using a handsaw and plane, the only power tools I use are a drill press and shop vac. I haven’t heard the shrill howl of a router or circular saw in years.
Love how you approached this. Coping saws really do require a good deal of skill to use well, and it's no wonder few people like them. Until recently I was also a frustrated coping saw user, but recently I was carefully, and patiently taught how to use one. I was shocked. It was so easy to use, no struggling, no blade bending, just a nice even smooth curve. That aside, I sure learned a lot watching you approach these complex curves with just a saw and a chisel. Thanks kindly once again.
@@tomcheng3903 i would guess figuring out the right tension for the blade and the proper orientation for the workpiece. For instance, i've noticed that i'm more comfortable working with horizontal stock and with the blade in the vertical, set up for pull cuts, also i get my best results working like that. kinda like how jewelers work with their saws.
Just stumbled over this by accident and this is exactly the content I am looking for. Great video, good tips, original style and no fancy music. You really earned my subscription. Have a nice day, greetings from Germany!
A tip for all the newbie like me, that I've learned recently: when you use your chisel on convex or concave curves, always look at the bevel when cutting. If it starts the cut more on one side of the bevel than the other, change the angle of cut. The bevel of your chisel is not always perfectly square. If you want a curve with a surface perfectly perpendicular to the sides, you have to keep the bevel perpendicular to the sides. Not the handle, not the shank, just the bevel. Thanks Rex for sharing.
I used to do carpentry and remodeling, for many years. I learned everything I know from my father, who worked in cabinet shops and framing crews - everything from very fine woodworking to rough, fast framing. Fast forward to now, I'm a locomotive mechanic/electrician (9 1/2 years). I tried explaining coping to a co-worker who was putting crown molding in his house. Even after bringing in my coping saw and showing him how it was done, he opted for miter cuts and lots of caulk...🤷♂️ All this was to say: *purchase a coping saw (they're cheap) and various blades (coarse to fine); learn how to use it, it will save you SO much time and effort.*
Cue song: YOU'RE SIMPLY THE BEST, BETTER THAN ALL THE REST!!! Superb tutorial, I'm subscribing right away! And I'm a woman. My late father was a carpenter. Wish he could have watched this and all your tutorials. 💯💯💯
Dude! You take the what I fear are the most challenging techniques in my woodworking and make them look like novice level. Another excellent instructional video. Great job.
Hi Rex. I was a ‘lurker’ before becoming a subscriber, and rarely comment anywhere. But I do want to say I love all your videos and your ‘human’ approach. I do have some power tools but not having a shop, I do a fair amount with hand tools. Your videos give me incentive and reassurance to do so and proves you don’t need Festool to ‘getter-done,’ LOL. Keep up the good work!! Thanks.
What a great video. Your tips are prefect for those of us who don't have a lot of equipment yet. As a beginner, you're my kind of channel to watch. Thanks.
Great info Rex. Clear and concise. I much prefer handtool videos over power tool videos. Lots of power tool videos out there, so it is nice to see alternative methods of how to do things.
Thanks Rex. Tried some coping saw work on a house name sign. Kept ruining the letters at the weak points. Now I understand a bit more why and how to leave supporting waste. It's all in the planning!
I love these types of videos for beginners, great work. I’ve replaced a few missing pieces on antique furniture before, I normally just use a regular smaller sized hand saw to cut away as much material as possible and then an aggressive file to take off more material and make the curve. I then refine it with a finer file and then sandpaper. If it’s too thick I just whizz over it with my handheld electric planer. Normally I use prices of oak or pine and then veneer them to match the existing wood on the piece
This was EXACTLY the video I was looking for. There just isn't enough information on using hand tools. Subscribed and excited to dig into the videos here.
Just want to quickly say its amazing how much better quality the videos have gotten lately. Having your giant face so clear in the beginning was awesome! Kudos, and keep it up!!
This is nuts! All the years I thought I couldn't do certain things because I didnt have this tool or that tool. Just serves as further proof that where there's a will there's a way. Awesome video.
Plenty of people cut curves in wood long before bandsaws or other power tools were invented. It is nice to see someone investigating a variety of ways to make complex curves so that each of us can choose the methods that suits us best. I have a good quality jigsaw so I would normally fit a curve-cutting blade and use that. I will keep your methods in mind in case I ever have to cut something where those aren't available or where they don't seem appropriate. I have no room for a bandsaw so that is out of the question unless I move to a new home.
I’m not a hand tool wood worker, like at all. But I really enjoy your videos, and I like seeing how it is done another way. So I’m a subscriber and I always watch your content. And it might just be enough for me to give some of this stuff a go one day. Well done, and thanks!
Brilliant! (I think I've said that before) I did my first curves with a coping saw and they came out "meh...." even as a basic 'spade' shape on step stools. I was worried about trying more complex shapes on better projects. Now i have another method in my tool box. Thanks for another informative and entertaining lesson!
In addition to this being presented as the economical way to get the job done, it honestly looks to me like the therapeutic way. I find a lot of power tools to make me anxious, but I love the feeling cutting and chopping into something by hand.
Honestly, sanding sticks Rock! I've got rasps and files etc, but also a whole bucket of humble sanding sticks. Big ones, tiny ones, knife edged ones, round ones, concave ones and I love them all. I think the trick is to use adhesive backed power sander sheets. The extra strength of the backing seems to make a huge difference. They last for ages, way longer than the same paper just held in your hand. Maybe 'cos the backing doesn't flex or crease? A 100ish grit sanding stick seems to be about the right ''agression'' for me; it's fast, but it doesn't leave you with too much finishing.
Another technique for complex shapes is to drill a series of holes (on the waste side of the line). In a way, it is the most efficient process (short of a coping saw), since it removes the least amount of wood.
Dude, MUCH love, bro'! You never cease to amaze me with the generous, HIGH quality education that you provide - DAMNED good stuff, man! DAMNED good! I totally appreciate you!
One of these days I'll finally get around to finishing the bench I started courtesy of Rex's earlier videos. Then it's on to box domination! Guess I'll have to add some fun curves to them while I'm at it 🤔 Thanks again for the great video, Rex!
Great video, Rex! It's good to see options explored and offered rather than "this is THE way to do something". Not to argue, since it's a small thing to sand the mineral oil away... BUT an option you might enjoy. Zippo Fluid is a GREAT glue releaser, and we've used it on antique BOOKS where other "shops" have glued price stickers on them... It removes the "goop" left behind too, and it dries away with no residue... AND no, you don't have to get the name-brand stuff. It's just a term because pretty much EVERYONE knows what a Zippo is, so you know the product to get... There's no net benefit to getting expensive stuff for no more than glue release and removal. Obviously HOT water works faster (better?) than cold if you're up against a water-based glue, but almost nobody even bothers with that sort of thing anymore... AND the carpentry/woodworking world seems to have a thing against glue that releases readily on contact with water, though I do keep a small bottle of "school glue" for exactly the kind of template work you showed here... water's more convenient to me (usually) than oil based solvents and weird chemistry... JUST DON'T get tempted to use the school glue to finish that project because the last drop of Titebond left you a couple inches short of finished. (lolz) ;o)
A spokeshave would be a useful addition to a hand tool-focused workshop precisely for stuff like this. Perhaps a video on how to make one? They're probably easier than making a plane from scratch & use many of the same techniques. Edit: And you can use a normal plane iron in them too, of course.
Thanks for the great tips i just started in woodworking but low in budget for tools and small apt so really no space for tools so this would help me a lot. 🙏
Wow! Exactly the channel I'm looking for. I'm so glad UA-cam put this up on my feed. I'm new to woodworking and I don't have the pocket to buy expensive machines 😂. Also, I'm doing small projects so it's really hard to justify the investment. Thanks for making content like these! Just wanted to show my appreciation to your work
Weird... I've always been a huge fan of Batman and that curve has always spoken to me but I never put those things together as related but I bet you nailed it there. Thanks for putting that small piece of my personality together for me lol
Rex, a lot of great information here! For the first concave curve where you showed the bevel down/mallet method, I thought “Why not take that drawknife off the wall?” I use mine to remove vast amounts of wood quickly while carving guitar necks. It has great control, can skew nicely so with practice you can carve good detail with finish equal to a chisel. Just have to keep it sharp.
1. Outstanding coverage of how not to wreck out the fine points as you slam along. Nice work Rex. 2. Magnificent dovetail saw, "Suizan" brand recommended also by Jonathan Katz-Moses; I bought their folding dovetail which is about $8 more but well worth it IMHO (can toss that in the toolbox to go), and I'm going to buy their folding Ryoba (2-sided) saw as well for thru cuts. Take care not to tweak the teeth sideways, the kerf is only 0.5mm or 0.2" and the cut as a result is very smooth if you control the direction well; doesn't take much more than the weight of the saw to advance the cut sue to sharp teeth & minimal kerf to cut. This is my favorite tool period.
Thanks for the advice, I tried this out and it came out very well. I have never been able to make any designs like this but I can see my self being able too now!
A thing to keep in mind with sanding sticks on end-grain is that having some kind of scraping tool like a cheap kitchen knife you can square-edge can help on wood with tough grain fibers. You can end up with "fur" protecting the end-grain slowing you way down, just shave it off and keep going!
Nice work Rex, though I would probably use a coping saw for some of that. On another note my dovetail/tenon saw cost me £8 (or around $11) and is a Marples brass backed cast steel saw made before my grandfather was born in the 1880s. It even came reasonably sharp.
Crimson Guitars teaches making the curved neck similarly. By drawing lines then length of the guitar neck, and simply removing the material between. Draw new lines and repeat.
While I'm an illustrator and not a carpenter, the concept is the same. The more you know about doing a job with the most basic tools possible the better your work will be when you have access to more advanced tools.
Im looking for ways to cut speaker holes. This helps a lot for that, although im finding it difficult to find information on finishing the cuts, particularly cutting the outer diameter recess where the flange sits. I figure some kind of circle jig with a special sort of horizontal/perpendicular plane working off the pilot hole but cant find a plane. Im not at the tool building stage yet lol.
I have a workbench which I need to carve a half circle on one edge, would you recommend a coping saw for this job? Or should I get a Japanese saw and chisel the curves? Just keep mind that this is a repurposed table, so I won't have the flexibility to attach the section on a vise or clamp. Cuts will have to be made in place. TIA!
I've used this technique a lot on curves with relief cuts. It's quick and works well. Do you have a card scraper on your inexpensive tools list. Really helpful on lots of things and not that expensive.
i've got it!!! you're the Alton Brown of Woodworking!!! that's why you're so danged watchable. you need to be here on camera for the world to enjoy. i truly appreciate your presentations and your skills. you are to be admired
Mother of god, he is!
As a guy who owns no power tools but a drill and a jigsaw, your existence makes me happy.
Love your videos! I'm a beginner woodworker at 70 years old. If I could afford to monetarily I would, but we are both retired on Social Security, so any extra monies are going towards a very few tools and stock. Keep putting out these wonderful and informative videos. Thanks again.
Using hand powered tools, in good condition and of good quality, is a joy. Learning the skills to use them is a satisfying journey. Using them is peaceful and quiet. After learning to rip and square stock using a handsaw and plane, the only power tools I use are a drill press and shop vac. I haven’t heard the shrill howl of a router or circular saw in years.
Love how you approached this. Coping saws really do require a good deal of skill to use well, and it's no wonder few people like them. Until recently I was also a frustrated coping saw user, but recently I was carefully, and patiently taught how to use one. I was shocked. It was so easy to use, no struggling, no blade bending, just a nice even smooth curve. That aside, I sure learned a lot watching you approach these complex curves with just a saw and a chisel. Thanks kindly once again.
what's the trick to them?
@@tomcheng3903 i would guess figuring out the right tension for the blade and the proper orientation for the workpiece. For instance, i've noticed that i'm more comfortable working with horizontal stock and with the blade in the vertical, set up for pull cuts, also i get my best results working like that. kinda like how jewelers work with their saws.
Just stumbled over this by accident and this is exactly the content I am looking for. Great video, good tips, original style and no fancy music. You really earned my subscription. Have a nice day, greetings from Germany!
A tip for all the newbie like me, that I've learned recently:
when you use your chisel on convex or concave curves, always look at the bevel when cutting. If it starts the cut more on one side of the bevel than the other, change the angle of cut. The bevel of your chisel is not always perfectly square. If you want a curve with a surface perfectly perpendicular to the sides, you have to keep the bevel perpendicular to the sides. Not the handle, not the shank, just the bevel. Thanks Rex for sharing.
I used to do carpentry and remodeling, for many years. I learned everything I know from my father, who worked in cabinet shops and framing crews - everything from very fine woodworking to rough, fast framing.
Fast forward to now, I'm a locomotive mechanic/electrician (9 1/2 years).
I tried explaining coping to a co-worker who was putting crown molding in his house. Even after bringing in my coping saw and showing him how it was done, he opted for miter cuts and lots of caulk...🤷♂️
All this was to say: *purchase a coping saw (they're cheap) and various blades (coarse to fine); learn how to use it, it will save you SO much time and effort.*
I love these videos. Watch it on Wednesday: go to my shed on Saturday and try it out.
So nice this video.
Dude same thing 🤣 long time metal guy but rex gives me a new appreciation for wood work
Damn, the speed and accuracy you have is impressive! I'm a wood carver and don't have a bandsaw, so your video was super useful to me. Thanks!
Cue song: YOU'RE SIMPLY THE BEST, BETTER THAN ALL THE REST!!! Superb tutorial, I'm subscribing right away! And I'm a woman. My late father was a carpenter. Wish he could have watched this and all your tutorials. 💯💯💯
Dude! You take the what I fear are the most challenging techniques in my woodworking and make them look like novice level. Another excellent instructional video. Great job.
That's really nice to hear. Honestly, this isn't that tough. You caan do it!
That you for the instruction. With these days of power everything people forget the basics
Hi Rex. I was a ‘lurker’ before becoming a subscriber, and rarely comment anywhere. But I do want to say I love all your videos and your ‘human’ approach. I do have some power tools but not having a shop, I do a fair amount with hand tools. Your videos give me incentive and reassurance to do so and proves you don’t need Festool to ‘getter-done,’ LOL. Keep up the good work!! Thanks.
What a great video. Your tips are prefect for those of us who don't have a lot of equipment yet. As a beginner, you're my kind of channel to watch. Thanks.
I'm here to help!
Great info Rex. Clear and concise. I much prefer handtool videos over power tool videos. Lots of power tool videos out there, so it is nice to see alternative methods of how to do things.
Check out Paul Sellers and James Wright!
Thanks Rex. Tried some coping saw work on a house name sign. Kept ruining the letters at the weak points. Now I understand a bit more why and how to leave supporting waste. It's all in the planning!
Great video, thanks! I'm also a fan of japanese style saws, they make precise cuts with very little waste.
That's my man.. to those who were watching this.. do not rely on machines.. cause not all of us has/have the previlege to own one.. GREAT VIDEO BRO
I love these types of videos for beginners, great work. I’ve replaced a few missing pieces on antique furniture before, I normally just use a regular smaller sized hand saw to cut away as much material as possible and then an aggressive file to take off more material and make the curve. I then refine it with a finer file and then sandpaper. If it’s too thick I just whizz over it with my handheld electric planer. Normally I use prices of oak or pine and then veneer them to match the existing wood on the piece
This was EXACTLY the video I was looking for. There just isn't enough information on using hand tools. Subscribed and excited to dig into the videos here.
Welcome!
Brilliant! Respect for being able to use the chiesel and the saw to the fullest capabilities.
Just want to quickly say its amazing how much better quality the videos have gotten lately. Having your giant face so clear in the beginning was awesome! Kudos, and keep it up!!
We're always working to improve. Thanks for noticing!
Thanks for showing how to cut and chisel curves with just hand tools !!!!!!!!! Thanks for the knowledge Rex
This is nuts! All the years I thought I couldn't do certain things because I didnt have this tool or that tool. Just serves as further proof that where there's a will there's a way. Awesome video.
This is one of your best. Lots of things that would not have occurred to me. Just fantastic.
Plenty of people cut curves in wood long before bandsaws or other power tools were invented. It is nice to see someone investigating a variety of ways to make complex curves so that each of us can choose the methods that suits us best. I have a good quality jigsaw so I would normally fit a curve-cutting blade and use that. I will keep your methods in mind in case I ever have to cut something where those aren't available or where they don't seem appropriate. I have no room for a bandsaw so that is out of the question unless I move to a new home.
I’m not a hand tool wood worker, like at all. But I really enjoy your videos, and I like seeing how it is done another way. So I’m a subscriber and I always watch your content. And it might just be enough for me to give some of this stuff a go one day. Well done, and thanks!
I used to be all power tool. Then I tried the hand approach. I was shocked at how much I liked it.
Thank you Rex, for another very helpful video. I really enjoy your teaching style.
Brilliant!
(I think I've said that before)
I did my first curves with a coping saw and they came out "meh...." even as a basic 'spade' shape on step stools. I was worried about trying more complex shapes on better projects. Now i have another method in my tool box.
Thanks for another informative and entertaining lesson!
In addition to this being presented as the economical way to get the job done, it honestly looks to me like the therapeutic way. I find a lot of power tools to make me anxious, but I love the feeling cutting and chopping into something by hand.
Thanks for these tips! As part of our final outcome of my Product Design course we're given a wooden stool base. These tips will really help me!
Honestly, sanding sticks Rock! I've got rasps and files etc, but also a whole bucket of humble sanding sticks. Big ones, tiny ones, knife edged ones, round ones, concave ones and I love them all.
I think the trick is to use adhesive backed power sander sheets. The extra strength of the backing seems to make a huge difference. They last for ages, way longer than the same paper just held in your hand. Maybe 'cos the backing doesn't flex or crease? A 100ish grit sanding stick seems to be about the right ''agression'' for me; it's fast, but it doesn't leave you with too much finishing.
Another technique for complex shapes is to drill a series of holes (on the waste side of the line). In a way, it is the most efficient process (short of a coping saw), since it removes the least amount of wood.
I use that technique for metal-cutting all the time!
Dude, MUCH love, bro'! You never cease to amaze me with the generous, HIGH quality education that you provide - DAMNED good stuff, man! DAMNED good! I totally appreciate you!
And I appreciate you back!
One of these days I'll finally get around to finishing the bench I started courtesy of Rex's earlier videos. Then it's on to box domination! Guess I'll have to add some fun curves to them while I'm at it 🤔 Thanks again for the great video, Rex!
You can finish that bench in an afternoon, do it!!!
I cut curves with chisels and a dovetail saw alllllll daaaaaay looooong. Not a hard thing to do once you get the technique down. Good vid.
Switched up convex and concave at 3:24. Apart from that, I'm really impressed by the results.
Great video, Rex! It's good to see options explored and offered rather than "this is THE way to do something".
Not to argue, since it's a small thing to sand the mineral oil away... BUT an option you might enjoy. Zippo Fluid is a GREAT glue releaser, and we've used it on antique BOOKS where other "shops" have glued price stickers on them... It removes the "goop" left behind too, and it dries away with no residue...
AND no, you don't have to get the name-brand stuff. It's just a term because pretty much EVERYONE knows what a Zippo is, so you know the product to get... There's no net benefit to getting expensive stuff for no more than glue release and removal.
Obviously HOT water works faster (better?) than cold if you're up against a water-based glue, but almost nobody even bothers with that sort of thing anymore... AND the carpentry/woodworking world seems to have a thing against glue that releases readily on contact with water, though I do keep a small bottle of "school glue" for exactly the kind of template work you showed here... water's more convenient to me (usually) than oil based solvents and weird chemistry... JUST DON'T get tempted to use the school glue to finish that project because the last drop of Titebond left you a couple inches short of finished. (lolz) ;o)
A spokeshave would be a useful addition to a hand tool-focused workshop precisely for stuff like this. Perhaps a video on how to make one? They're probably easier than making a plane from scratch & use many of the same techniques. Edit: And you can use a normal plane iron in them too, of course.
It's on the list, for sure!
Great video. Not a new woodworker, but working on the basics is very important
Super video instructions ! You make it seem so easy
Thanks for the great tips i just started in woodworking but low in budget for tools and small apt so really no space for tools so this would help me a lot. 🙏
Wow! Exactly the channel I'm looking for. I'm so glad UA-cam put this up on my feed. I'm new to woodworking and I don't have the pocket to buy expensive machines 😂. Also, I'm doing small projects so it's really hard to justify the investment. Thanks for making content like these! Just wanted to show my appreciation to your work
Good video. I've seen this design my entire life but just seen BatMan with his cape in it.
I'm still going to call it the Batman Arch
My 6-year-old daughter calls it Batman, too!
Weird... I've always been a huge fan of Batman and that curve has always spoken to me but I never put those things together as related but I bet you nailed it there. Thanks for putting that small piece of my personality together for me lol
I said " It looks like batman". Great minds.
This is an awesome technique. I used this to create a knife plaque and a display plaque for a moose skull for my friend. Great skill to have.
Good explanation of decisions to make while chiseling.
Rex, a lot of great information here! For the first concave curve where you showed the bevel down/mallet method, I thought “Why not take that drawknife off the wall?” I use mine to remove vast amounts of wood quickly while carving guitar necks. It has great control, can skew nicely so with practice you can carve good detail with finish equal to a chisel. Just have to keep it sharp.
This was a great tutorial! Thanks for sharing it.
You are such a great teacher. Thanks for all your great videos!
Spelling gems with a 'J' is outrageous. Truly, truly, truly outrageous.
A great practical video that anyone can use. Thanks Rex.
1. Outstanding coverage of how not to wreck out the fine points as you slam along. Nice work Rex. 2. Magnificent dovetail saw, "Suizan" brand recommended also by Jonathan Katz-Moses; I bought their folding dovetail which is about $8 more but well worth it IMHO (can toss that in the toolbox to go), and I'm going to buy their folding Ryoba (2-sided) saw as well for thru cuts. Take care not to tweak the teeth sideways, the kerf is only 0.5mm or 0.2" and the cut as a result is very smooth if you control the direction well; doesn't take much more than the weight of the saw to advance the cut sue to sharp teeth & minimal kerf to cut. This is my favorite tool period.
Nice!! Cutting all the curves without cutting any corners.
Ha!
Thanks for showing us how to do that!
Wow Rex, you're killing it!
You're very kind.
Rex It might be slower but more satisfying and you'll have more pride in your work.
Thanks for the advice, I tried this out and it came out very well. I have never been able to make any designs like this but I can see my self being able too now!
Wow! I always like your video and i learn a lot, but this one is really opening new horizons. Thank you very, very much!
Awesome presentation. Thank you.
Fun fact: wives and neighbors love the 140db chisel strikes!
As always, excellent video and technique, receive a big hug from Puerto Rico, God bless you hugely Rex!!
Ray Ray
Fantastic teaching style.
I am now subscribed to your channel. Thank you!
Well done Rex I am very impressed with your work keep it up🤠
Great Video Rex. Thanks for the insight.
Great job, i need a movie Like this 🎉
A thing to keep in mind with sanding sticks on end-grain is that having some kind of scraping tool like a cheap kitchen knife you can square-edge can help on wood with tough grain fibers. You can end up with "fur" protecting the end-grain slowing you way down, just shave it off and keep going!
Great video, Rex!👍🏻
Nice work Rex, though I would probably use a coping saw for some of that. On another note my dovetail/tenon saw cost me £8 (or around $11) and is a Marples brass backed cast steel saw made before my grandfather was born in the 1880s. It even came reasonably sharp.
Genius bro....
Humans made machines. 😁😁
You're also basically doing some woodcarving here. The techniques are essentially the same as far as reading the grain and using the chisel goes.
Great budget bandsaw
you save me from my compulsive buying!
thank you Rex
Great video! You make an excellent teacher. Thank you for all you do!
What an art
Very nice explanation!
Thank you very much indeed, sir! These tips are fantastic for a newbie!
Another great, informative, and highly enjoyable video. Thanks for sharing.
Crimson Guitars teaches making the curved neck similarly. By drawing lines then length of the guitar neck, and simply removing the material between. Draw new lines and repeat.
The dude from Crimson is a certified badass!
You’re such a resource dude! Awesome attitude, Thank ya!!
I guess someone was a fan of Jem and the Holograms as a kid.
I think I DID watch that show in like 1985. Wow.
Truely outrageous
Great tutorial👍
While I'm an illustrator and not a carpenter, the concept is the same. The more you know about doing a job with the most basic tools possible the better your work will be when you have access to more advanced tools.
Excellent tips and video...
Great Video Rex!
Thank u for this brilliant content
Great video, thanks so much.
This is your best edited video yet! #steppingupyourgame
Im looking for ways to cut speaker holes. This helps a lot for that, although im finding it difficult to find information on finishing the cuts, particularly cutting the outer diameter recess where the flange sits. I figure some kind of circle jig with a special sort of horizontal/perpendicular plane working off the pilot hole but cant find a plane. Im not at the tool building stage yet lol.
You are a great help! Thankyou!
If you want to step up your relief- cut game, a little pro tip: scream "HIYAAH!" as you knock out the waste.
Thank you
Wow! so amazing!
Insanely informative 👍
I have a workbench which I need to carve a half circle on one edge, would you recommend a coping saw for this job? Or should I get a Japanese saw and chisel the curves? Just keep mind that this is a repurposed table, so I won't have the flexibility to attach the section on a vise or clamp. Cuts will have to be made in place. TIA!
Great videos, sir! How you don’t have more subscribers is beyond me! 😄
Me too!
Legend!Bravo!
Good job.
This video was helpful, thank you!
I've used this technique a lot on curves with relief cuts. It's quick and works well.
Do you have a card scraper on your inexpensive tools list. Really helpful on lots of things and not that expensive.
That's absolutely something I need to add!