The TRUTH about woodworking saws.
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2020
- Do you really throw some saws away?!? Which ones? Which ones can you sharpen? Let's find out!
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I like that you don't try to flex nuts and don't gatekeep.
I remember a SAWYER near a boatyard in West Cork ,he spent all his time maintaining saws !thanks for the great videos .
Perfect timing! I was able to find an old saw vise and rehabilitating it now. Thanks Rex!
I have minimal interest in woodworking and may never use this information in my life, but your videos are so interesting and entertaining that I watch them anyways. I love what you do man
PRE-WARNING, this comment is long and with a lot of gushing... I must admit I joined as patron more for entertainment value. I will now add support because there is great content and substance to your information. Not saying other episodes weren't good, I feel this is one of your best explanations of a topic that has stymied me. I recently built a chest using all the saws you spoke of. I did rip, resaw, crosscut, and some "tight" joinery, and to me you were spot on. I did learn that "to saw" is a skill I must practice. Your channel is easily my fav and the best money spent. I do wish there was a way to kick-in a little bonus money for episodes I really like as an expression of "bravo"... Now get back to work and surprise me again because those videos don't make themselves.
They sure don't! This is a full-time job and I couldn't do it without your support! Thanks for commenting and letting me know I'm on the right track!
If you really want a lesson on sawing, I recommend he UA-cam channel of Renaissance Woodworking. That guy has some videos that are amazing and he is the finest sawyer I have seen on UA-cam. I like Rex here, but RWw is really a sawyer of distinction.
@@psiclops521 Great tip (this is D Colorado on my son's phone). I checked it out and I enjoyed it. I like different sources to get good info. Some I like are Paul Sellers, Richard Maguire (English Woodworker), Pask Makes, and a Japanese channel. Each are different and each is entertaining. It's all good.
D Colorado ... I have no problem with reading long comments ... but .. paragraphs are our friends & make for easier reading .. ... just sayin 🙄
Good point. I just got a little carried away. I'm new to reading and writing to these youtube reply things. This is pretty much the first place I felt I thought to say anything as it's good stuff.
Try putting your old hardpoint saw blade in the oven for an hour or so at 200⁰c/400⁰f then re-sharpen it. Just be sure to take the plastic handle off first so you dont have to deal with an angry spouse.
You can also just get a set of diamond needle files. I use those to resharpen my curved pruning saws, which are impulse hardened. The teeth WILL get smaller, but I can cut branches and small logs for 10 years instead of 2.
You can also just grab a cheap torch at the big box store and heat up all the teeth until they start lightly glowing and leave it to air cool (anneal). Some may even choose to place it in some warm sand or even in your oven with it turned off to slow the cooling process & further soften the steel but in most cases this shouldn't be necessary.
Keep in mind, depending on the exact steel composition, the teeth may need to be re-tempered after sharpening or you will find that it gets dull really fast. Just don't forget to draw back the temper a little as to not have a brittle blade.
@@John-lx8iu That doesn't really work. The steel is cheap junk. It ONLY hardens with impulse hardening. You can aneal it but will NEVER get it to hold an edge again because you can't harden it.
@@John-lx8iu i see where your going with this but the idea of putting it in the oven is to temper the teeth back from the original hardening process, rather than annealing it and having to harden the steel all over again, so the teeth end up half hardened in a similar fashion to those great vintage saws we all chase. It wont be perfect as the steel isn't necessarily great but it does mean you can re-sharpen your saw and it will stay sharp for a good while.
@@leighchappell you're just annealing it in the oven, which lets you sharpen it.
i have sharped a several hard point saws using a diamond thee corner file i bought on ebay
Thankyou. You answered my question. The saw will still be usable when the superhard metal is gone. Recycle and think.
Rex, let me tell you you have an amazing channel. Your explanations are clear, accurate and you break everything down to simple understandable information. Everytime I get asked how I know so much about woodworking, I recommend your channel (and Paul's) you're an amazing guy.
Love your videos btw. Very clear, practical, informative and encouraging. You got me started angle-grinding (restoring tools etc) and just yesterday I turned an old guitar strap into a strop on my sharpening station (made out of a cabinet door & scraps of ply).
I gotta say I love this channel from the aspect of entertainment to information to the content being more down to earth for a true newbie. Hopefully I'll be able to be a patron soon. 2020 has not been an enjoyable year but I just wanted to say you are doing an amazing job
Great saw discussion. I am looking forward to your next video on panel saws!
Thank you so much for this video! I just bought a tri-edge and had no idea what to do with it, now I know!
You are so welcome!
thanks for an interesting video. You mention a couple of times cutting scrapers out of the disposable saw blade; I think that would be an interesting video too!
Pask Makes made a video on that. Super useful tool ua-cam.com/video/guRM-hqoiQY/v-deo.html
When you make scrapers out of the old blade, don't throw the handle in the trash. Many time, they can be recycled into comfortable and secure handles for tablesaw jigs.
Thank you again Rex. Another very helpful video, well narrated and full of important info. From Vancouver Island - have a great day and stay healthy.
This was a phenomenal one Rex! What a great teaching session! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. This is defiantly information people should pay for! Keep up the awesome work! :)
For anyone interested , you could use a torch to anneal the saw teeth on a newer saw allowing it to be sharpened with a regular file
I was going to ask about that...
I'm blessed to have my house-carpenter great-grandfather's tools, including saws, a saw vise, and the files for sharpening them. Great way to spend an afternoon.
Saws are a bit of a personal journey for us all and it's great to read so much useful feedback in the comments below. You've built a really likeable community here Rex, and you should be proud.
My two cents worth is that I purchased a couple of Japanese folding saws (ryoba and dozuki) a few years ago. They are fantastic, as the handles protect the blade (and the user) meaning that they fit in your tool bag without causing injury. (Hell, in a pinch I've carried one up a ladder in my back pocket!) Mine are the Silky brand, the Wood Boy dozuki and Takeru Boy ryoba, but I'm sure that there are many others as good. (I'll try the diamond file trick mentioned below when the time comes.)
Informative, detailed and low drama. Excellent! 👍
This is great! Really liking your down to earth approach to woodworking.
Awesome, thank you!
Great video Rex. At our men's shed, we have a lot of tools given to us from deceased estates. Amongst them are the saws you mention. When they become dull we do not throw them away. We turn them into cabinet scrapers. We just cut the blade into manageable sizes and then go through the process of turning them into scrapers.
Thanks Rex! There is a ton of great info in this video.
Awesome video! I spent a lot of time and money figuring out what saws I wanted when I was a beginner, and after lots of searching and testing, I am super happy with my current selection. My Veritas 14 tpi dovetail saw and my gyokucho 240 mm ryoba do more than 90% of all my hand sawing. I’ve got a couple other saws I use a lot less frequently, but I will always recommend those two to anyone getting started, and I’ve heard nothing but good things from everyone who’s tried them in their own shop. Both are great bang for buck, and I’ve never found anything that can outperform them.
I've collected quite a few old hand saws in the past years...just because...now I know because why! Thanks Rex!
Oldest anarchy server with deeper grooves at a level 7
Beautiful
Omg
That's too cursed
glass 2B2T?
FitMC has joined the chat
This video came out at a great time; I’m debating on what type saw I should get.
I’m still learning a lot about tools and what I need and what I can hold off for the time being
legit watched the 11:59 minutes of this video and honestly- it didnt even feel stretched like 90% of the youtube videos do these days. very informatic and well explained. nice job
If you have a very basic metalworking setup, retired saws can be turned into several things other than just scrapers. The flexibility and high carbon content allow the blades to become decent machetes and filet knives. They can also be used to make fish scales and light duty knives for gardening or food prep
I've a few nice Disston handsaws in my till I picked up at various garage sales for about $5 and re-sharpened. Saved the hassle dealing with a tool that was made to be thrown out. -Veteran '66-68
I think it's like anything - these peripheral skills to a hobby (such as woodworkers sharpening saws) are as much or as little of a rabbit hole as you want to make them. There is some pride and enjoyment in a new skill of maintaining old saws coupled with the added startup cost and of course the time investment, or on the other hand you can spend a few bucks every few years on a new saw and focus on the work itself. Always good to have options!
You're not going to get a saw that cuts very good for just a few bucks. Maybe $70 or so? On the high end $300 is not out of the question. But even then you're not getting a saw pitched exactly how you may like it to be.
first time viewer,
learned alot of things i didnt know about
thank you for the great info
Thanks for another great discussion, Rex. You are like a one man America's Test Kitchen for woodworking.
Fantastic video, Rex! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Rex- a lot of good ideas there. I just restarted my cabinet/trim shop I made the decision to ditch all my disposable saw (Japanese in my case) and have every thing in my shop user serviceable.
It may seem like an odd choice but I went with bow saws for everything except 3 Japanese saws that I know how to sharpen my self.
Got the blades in my case from highlandhardware and cut them to the appropriate lengths. I also cut down an old misery whip and made in to a Roubo saw for big resaws. Not for everyone but I think I spent less than $150 for about 8 saws I set up and 1 kerfing plane.
Enjoy your channel best of the luck.
Some great useful information. Thanks.
THANK YOU!! You’re so good at breaking things down in a digestible way. 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 I’ve watched a ton of videos about saws and was still wondering what the deal with the “big box” hardened teeth were. Looks like my Japanese saw purchase was perfect for where I’m at after all!
Keep up the excellent work!
You are so welcome!
I've watched a few of your videos now and I've just had to subscribe as you have a great way of explaining things and the quality of your videos is high. I'm from the UK and looking at using saws I can sharpen as I inherited all the tools to do the job.
THIS VIDEO IS EXACTLY WHAT I NEEDED. Thank you so much. I've been looking at saws recently, because my ryoba saw bent, and I was also looking at spring steel shim stock to make specific saws (I want to build a foot powered band saw, a frame saw a replica of Bridge City's Joint Maker Pro, too). Any information about saws is good information, and that video was really excellent. Thank you so much!
I thoroughly enjoy your videos and admire your sense of ethics regarding free tools and sponsorships. Kudos to you sir.
Thanks for watching
Great video! I learned a ton.
You should do a woodworking with tools sourced only from harbor freight series, I think it would be helpful for those starting off cheap, and amusing to the rest of us.
PLEASE, I WAS JUST THINKING THIS. Some of us are using harbor freight tools to start.
You are an absolute wealth of knowledge, not a video of yours I don't learn a handful of stuff
What I like most about your channel Is the fact you are not sponsored, just your honest opinion. I'm an old carpenter and have been using power tools for most of my work, but I do enjoy the feel of good hand tools on wood when I get the chance. I have fare amount of old hand tool and most of them need a great deal of attention. Might be time for this old guy to get back to the old ways a little more.
I appreciate that!
Got lucky with my 2 saws, barely used vintage ones just like yours... just had a couple dummies at estate sales/yard sales who didn't know what they had who sold them to me for a dollar each.
When I started in the trades in the early 1980s, there were at least two options for getting saws sharpened in my home town. One was George Miko, who ran a sharpening business out of his basement. He did hand saws, circular saw blades, and lawnmower blades. He even had the equipment to sharpen reel type mowers. The other was a store that sold landscape equipment like mowers and chain saws and also did sharpening. When I got married and moved to Fairfield I found that the neighborhood had a hardware store that would take your saw and have it sharpened for you. The grinding company would pick up saws once a week, ( I think it was Thursdays) and return the sharpened saws the next week. The price was about what I had paid in Norwalk. I guess the store got a discount because of the volume.
Recently I found that Bahco, the Swedish manufacturer launched wood saws with a modern design but with non hard-point filable teeth. I bought a medium size teeth 24” saw. It was cheap great quality and I can file it. It was under 20 dollars in Home Depot.
Here is the model.
Brand: Bahco
Model: Bahco Pc-24-File-U7 fcut Fileable Saw 24In
Great tips on how to file my saws. Thanks a lot Rex!!!
I love Bahco stuff. I'm going to buy one today!!!
SHUT UP AND TAKE MY MONEY!!!
I've been amateur wood working mostly with power tools for a long time only stumbling on to your channel about a year ago. I've considered building a lot of the stuff you've done and learned a ton about sharpening planer and chisels from you. I had no idea they didn't just come sharp from a big box store and always assumed it was my technique that made them hard to use the way I see others use them (which is why I typically stick to power tools). I started sharpening chisels after seeing one of your videos and the difference is night and day.
You do awesome work Rex. I just bought a new house that comes with a two car garage, that my wife thinks for parking cars or something, you bet your @$$ I'll be buying some plans.
I can never understand why people keep calling it a carshed. I know I certainly never plan to put a car in mine!😎
Very good summation of handsaws.
Never knew. Very educational!
This was excellent, thanks for taking the time to go through it all! Perhaps you've already covered it in another video, but have you done a video covering files for comparison as they vary in price so much?
Rex, good job.
Regarding western handsaws: there are various brand names made by Flinn/Garlick in Sheffield which are quite nice (Pax, Lynx, Roberts & Lee), but most are a little pricey (100ish). Paul Sellers has an episode about modern Spear and Jacksons which seem to be a good value, but at their current prices they are probably made somewhere in the far east with low cost labour.
I like Crown as well. So does Paul Sellers, I think, since I see him use them. For those with money to burn, there's Bad Axe and Blackburn.
A very informative video! I used to work next to a carpentry school, and I always wondered why saws kept turning up in their waste skip. I guess this is why!
Of course, saws that were too dull to learn carpentry with were just fine for me to cut firewood and junk pieces with, so it was great for me- so many free tools! And speaking of firewood, those guys were really wasteful with the wood they threw away as well. Plenty of their junk and offcuts went into projects of mine...
Great discussion Rex, thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
Knowledge is Power! Rex is a legend....
Great info
Thank you for this video!
Clear explanation of what many of us have forgotten in the realm of Norm Abrams..... as in, if there is a power tool that I could use for a job.....
not my type of content, but you are awesome. You know what you a talking about, you are highly motivated, love good tools, but also accepts pragmatic decisions.
Also the audio is perfect - a bit shop echo, just a little touch. Really nice. High quality lights - offcourse, good light is a necessity for good manual work, but also good video - it does make a difference.
Keep it up.
I found some time ago (if I remember correctly, recommended by Paul Sellers) traditional skew back panel saw by Spear & Jackson, use it for some time, mostly for rough cuts, and I'm rather happy with it. But knowing what I know now about S&J compared to other saws (like your video about tenon saws), it probably could be better. Waiting for that video :)
Paul Sellers has several videos on saw sharpening. He specifically covers the Spear & Jackson panel saws…they all come sharpened for “universal” cut, which is essentially cross-cut, and he converts it to rip cut. He also shows how to re-shape the handle for a more comfortable grip.
In the U.K. we used quality handsaws for years that we used to sharpen & set .Then the price of the hardened tooth throwaway saws came down in price .So we used them for a couple of weeks ,then for roughing out & finally passed them on to plasterers to use on plasterboard ( Dry wall ) Before I retired the timber yards were giving away 1 free saw with every £100 of timber ordered so we always had loads of them .The old skew backed saws were nice to use when sharp but a pain to keep sharpening .Even if you have to buy hard points they pay for themselves as you use them & cut more efficiently cost.next to nothing ,use them & dump them no more hassle having to sharpen. More beer drinking time .👍
Thanks for creating great content!
Glad you enjoy it!
@@RexKrueger One day when I've got some time I'm going to have to dig into some of your fab looking projects!
Looking forward to this later
Wow I found some panel and tenon saws at thrift stores. I also bought saw blades in bulk on ebay. I have been making saws for friends and it is fun. I have never paid those high prices for a saw. Thank you for the information and video.
I don't know why your videos are not coming in my feed even though I have subscribed to you a long time ago.
I really enjoyed this video. I personally love the Idea of buying a Japanese saw, and I have a fairly big project coming up. I'm glad I got to see this video
Love the hell out of my Crown tenon saw. Beautiful piece of metal.
Too bad it's only 12". Need 14" for a tenon saw.
Diamond files and thin plates will sharpen Tungsten Carbide cutters, which are far harder than any form of hardened steel, and with a hand saw you do not need a fine polished finish.
Induction hardened teeth on a hand saw blade are probably too brittle to re-set, but in some applications very minimal set is desirable.
Recycle blade steel for scrapers... don't waste bin em.
Grinding discs and/or diamond disks in Dremels work, too.
You can sharpen hard point saws *several* times before the set wears thin.
Hi Rex love you channel! But really enjoy where you are coming from with projects and tools. But what I really would is to have a full view of your workshop, I did see a glimpse of other power tools while you were doing another topic awhile back! Cheers
You may even want to look into rehardening one of those shock hardened blades.
I thought about just tempering the teeth...
I used an angle grinder to take the teeth and just cut new ones.
I was wondering about that too. Could you not just re-temper the whole blade and then you'd have a saw that you could sharpen? Would that work?
It's cheap junk steel. You can't harden it again, so it won't hold an edge.
I have seen Western saws with the replaceable blades on job sites that I've been on one brand that I remember is bahco so you can get a high quality handle and a hard point saw that just clips in an out of the handle.
Yup i have one. The blade is slightly thicker than the standard 244 pattern. The second fix blade from bahco is something else though. 11 tpi and iv cut through metal (accidental and thin) droped it on bricks and cut through plasteboards and its still sharp after years of use.
I went down to an old hardware store in the my hood. Been there forever. They had one of those old vintage saws new. Thought I was kidding about wanting it.
Pulled out my gents saw last week for first time in 30 years to cut a small joint. Very blunt. Time to dig out the saw setting kit I've had for nearly 50 years
The best use for an old saw is making it into a panel hacksaw. You'll need a carbide bit and some thread locker. Yes, for the hacksaw blades.
Most underrated Cold War era tool ever. Able to cut bedframes or large sheet metal.
You really are passionate about saws :)
Phenomenally great video Rex! Sending you a message on Instagram.
Two words.
Frame saws.
Head down to Harbor Freight and pick up a 1/8" and a 1/2" carbon bandsaw blade. Less than 20 bucks.
Stop at HomeDepot on the way home and pick up some large common nails and some smaller bright finish nails. Less than 10 bucks.
Use the 1/8' to make a turning saw that will beat the hell out of any coping saw you can buy. You'll have enough blade for two or three 12" blades.
Use the 1/2" to make a larger turning saw, though you don't really use it to turn, but you could some. It's just made that way to allow for long cuts. See Chines Frame Saw video by John Zhu UA-cam. He even has one video of making a blade from steel spring shims. Get exactly the teeth you want.
Use another piece of the 1/2" to make a shorter smaller joinery saw. Make this one with blade let directly into the wood handles, not turning. Super easy to make this one. Just make sure kerfs to recieve the blade are inline.
This will get you going on just about everything for very cheap. Like less than 50 bucks including some nice wood.
Almost forgot, get some 1/4" allthread, regular nuts, washers and some wing nuts for easier tensioning. For cheaper or even free tensioning use some twine and a stick.
You can also get made frame saw blades from a few places online. Or there are many, many bandsaw blade configurations to choose from. Various TPI's and tooth geometries.
You can not be this approach for bang for buck and easy skill building.
Or you can skip ALL that work and just buy the hardpoint saws that you need for the same price. If you want to cut curvey things, also buy a hacksaw frame and put a course metal blade in it.
Hey, your tip about John Zhu was good. He's someone to follow... I was starting to do the very thing about the blades as you suggested. I had materials for the frames saws (the project looked fun) but I realized my current project was behind schedule (birthday gift). So I'm getting by without the saws. Given my wife gave me a raise on my "woodchuck" project allowance, I'm going to buy blades to simplify the "saw" project. Sometimes I just need to pay retail and move forward.
I got a Japanese style pull saw recently and I'm converted, made the cleanest castle joint I've ever made with it going to upgrade to a more expensive one soon my cost about 15 dollars and love it 🙂
Id be surprised if nobody has mentioned it but spear and jackson do a resharpen-able panel saw. Pretty cheap too.
last time I sharpened a saw was about 30 years ago and ever since I have used throw away saw it make more sense. forget the eco side because when I have finished with them I cut them up into scrapers.
That collection of sandviks.. wow!
During the epidemic we couldn't buy new disposable hard point saws. I particularly needed a 14T for cutting plywood. I bought some diamond needle files and re-sharpened using a three square. Brilliant!
Great video Rex!! I love Japanese saws,, have you ever tried the Shonukin Tatebiki dovetail saw?? It’s absolutely amazing for small joints,, if you ever get a chance to get one you really should consider,, although I’m not sure if you can get them in America as I got mine from Axminster tools and machinery cuz I live in Europe,, anyhow,, keep up the great work, love the vids,, Shane
I've successfully sharpened hard point saws with an inexpensive Esi-Lap diamond hone. I took my time and looked at the coloration on each point to make sure I was working to the original angles. The saw cut straight after I'd done the sharpening and is used as my rough saw or the one I lend out.
It was a win win situation, if it hadn't worked I'd have just delayed the trip to the scrap metal bin. I cut a lot of particle board (chip board) and OSB and these are really tough on saws so it was good to get another lease of life out of the hard point.
Long term you won't get to keep doing this because the hardening is only going to be shallow but I had the time, it was a sunny day and it was pretty theraputic.
I inherited a weird looking set of pliers from my dad I thought may be for plate bending... and looking at this video I suddenly realised it’s a saw set (german style in my case) Thanks Rex!
Another awesome video. Could you do a video on making scrapers from old saws?
Yes, soon
A bit of heat on the teeth of the disposable saw softens it just enough that you can file it I have done this in the past!
The interesting part, my grandfather born 1906 was a cabinet maker/ finishing carpenter. From the time I was in school I can remember going up to the wood shop and sharpening the tool. Then he taught me how to use old files and an old saw to make other tools. I even have a plain that I made that is almost 40 years old now that I made.
I got tired of paying shops to sharpen my saws, plus the long wait times, so I just learned to sharpen my own. I can do an ok job, works for me.
My workhorse backsaw came from a cheap Stanley miter box I bought at Lowe's back in the day. It's resharpenable (I've sharpened it a few times in the past few years) and while it has a plastic handle and the back is just a U-shaped piece of steel, I have absolutely no complaints about comfort or performance. I don't even have a place to hang it up - it lives on my bench.
Assuming they still make them, that's a cheap route to get a decent quality backsaw that can be resharpened. The last time I saw it at Lowe's (maybe two years ago?) it was $13 and came with a horribly useless plastic miter box. It wouldn't be too hard to make a wooden handle for it or spray-paint the steel back to make it look like a fancy bronze-backed saw, if that's your thing.
Until recently I was using a saw that I didn't realize wasn't sharp and was cutting slower than when it was new. I have purchased inexpensive Stanley back saws that I would replace when I finally realized the one I was using had become s dull that it was taking forever to cut through a 3/4" pine board in a miter box. Therefore I have three of them in various stages of dullness because I didn't know I could resharpen them myself. After recently watching a video from Shawn Graham @ wortheffort about sharpening saws, I sharpened the one I am currently using, while narrowing the kerf so that I now have a thin kerf dovetail saw instead of the thicker kerf crosscut saw that it was. I'm probably going to resharpen the others like they were when they came form the factory since I do more cross cutting than dovetails.
Thanks for the video outlining the various saws along with their pros and cons.
Hey Rex! Great video as always, in depth and well researched! I do have a suggestion for future videos: if your camera has an input, you should invest in a small lav mic. It would really improve the audio quality and give you lots of polish for a little cash, haha. Keep up the great content!
In the UK we have 'Saw Doctors' you drop your saw off and they sharpen and set it for you, they used to be everywhere but we still have them, you can grind the teeth of an hardened saw.
Thanks mate
I've heard similar advice for a lot of tools. "Buy the cheapo Harbor Freight tools first, and when/if you wear one out or break it, spend real money on the new one". That lets you get a lot of tools for cheap, and only spend money on the ones you need to. Buying cheap saws first seems similar; if you like it and really get into it, you'll wear out the saw and replace it. If it turns out it's not for you, you're out a lot less money.
That advice sometimes works, but you need something that's good enough quality to be properly functional before it breaks or wears out. A lot of things in the Harbor Freight category aren't that. I've seen woodcarving sets that had 1/32" flats on the sharp ends of the chisels, and I'm also suspecting that a good part of why I find handsawing so difficult is that my inexpensive saws just aren't usably sharpened and set.
Two words of advice. 1) after filing, use a stone on each tooth not much just enough to remove the bur. Makes a huge difference in sharpness. 2) if your looking for a good old saw, take a look at vendor booths at a fair or market. People go buy saws and then throw some painting on it thinking its art. I have seen many Disston, linx, Vermont and oldschool Craftsman(when they still used american manufacturers) for sale. Most are being sold for pennies compared to what the saw is worth.
Hello Rex,
I usually soften the first teeth with a small burner for fine tuning.
It also works great with the whole saw, resharpening is no problem, that lasts a long time, like my old Vintage Models : )
Kindly Regards from Germany
and sorry for my englisch
I actually love multimaterial (or metal) fine toothed hacksaws to make small cuts that don't need cleaning.
liked & subscribed - thanks for the cool vids
Rex, what about making a quick jig for the bench grinder to take off the hardened/broken/dull teeth of the disposable saw, then using a hack saw and files to map the gullets-teeth using the steel just beneath the former teeth? And then... replacing the plastic handle with a vintage style wood handle? I could see an impoverished wood worker doing this.
No need for something that extreme.
Either use a diamond file, of a Dremel with a grinding disk or a diamond disk, and you *can* sharpen a hard point saw.
@@supergeek1418 in this case, I'm referring to a very damaged (thoroughly used up) and dullified disposable saw.
@@CosmicVitamins
In that case, (assuming that you have more time than money) that would certainly work.
@@supergeek1418 yup. That was the idea. But the question wasn't precisely directed towards you.
That's a lot of work to put into a shit steel blade. For the cost of a good bench grinder and one of these shitty big box store saws, the impoverished woodworker could get a very good proper saw.
Another very informative video and now I understand there is a saw vice? Awesome stuff. Like your way of explaining apparent "complicated" stuff. Thanx Rex! btw: I would like to leanr more on the Japanese saws and if they are a viable replacement for our Western saws... or are they rather a "value add".