Your video makes sense to me. Of course I am grateful that your demonstration showed the valves upside down so I could see the valves opening and closing.
Thanks for making this video without this video i never would have been able to get mu rodeo running again I did water pump timing belt timing pully and tensionior and i had everything lined up 3 times i went through completely re assembled the vehicle for it not to work after watching the Isuzu timing procedure video 50 times and seeing this video it clicked in my brain i clocked the heads hooked up the radiator before reassembling everything again and she purred to life now i just got to fix my sticky lifters
Don't know if you're still working on this but a 91 would be a sohc to my knowledge, thus no clocking necessary. However it's worth checking the rocker shafts and valves if you got it apart, I'm overhauling my heads right now and got major wear for only 113k
What kind of issue or sound would the engine be making if this wasn’t done properly? I have a 1998 trooper that just had an axiom engine installed into it and had the timing belt replaced. My engine is making a weird fluttering sound when you press the gas. It’s running but idles ruff around 2k bounces up and down. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hey there sorry for the late reply. So the very first time I changed the belt I messed up the timing on one of the heads. The drivers side I think. It started up and ran but there was obviously something not right. I drove it for a day or two before I could change it and set it properly. If I remember correctly it surged and idled rough. Had a bad engine performance and didn’t want to rev up much. Once I adjusted it it ran totally smoothly. I can’t remember how it sounded but it’s idle was loppey and had power suges while driving. If you haven’t done so yet and have the means or capability then definitely check the timing and reset the whole system. Clock both heads and put the timing belt on properly. Then at least you’ll know if that was the problem. Good luck mang let me know 🤘🤘
You will need to lower the front brace in order to clear the oil pan. If you separate the transmission and drop it down you can lift the engine out without lowering the front. But if you plan to take out the engine and trans together you have to lower the front. Remove the front driveshaft. I believe you can get away with loosening the the sub frame and not removing the axle and everything in order to lower it enough for clearance.
@@r1beef88 wow man that worked. my mechanic and i fought for 4 days to get it out. we ripped the clutch fingers out of the lock ring not sure if we did that right. everything was rusted. thats what was really holding us up mostly. we ended up disconnecting the trans and unbolted the axle. everything is ez as pie after this. thank you for the reply there wasnt much on the forums and the book isnt for beginners.
Just been through this with my Rodeo 3.5... There are some postings on youtube that are incorrect. This site is the correct one. Make sure to watch the other sites "tear down" 1-10 In short: with timing belt off (about to be replaced)... install tensioner spring but not tensioner pulley. Check that the large 17mm tensioner bolt will thread into the correct hole (mine did not ... took too long to discover this) camshaft rotated until groove (cut out is at 3 o clock). Painted mark on pulley will be at 9 o clock RHS cam mark will be at 12 o clock - remember to turn it until it clicks into place at 12 o clock LHS cam mark rotated until clicked into place at 9 o clock TO THE CAM MARKER ... then rotated manually until at 12 o clock. Feed belt onto RHS and clip into place - align marks on belt, letters readable from the front of the car. Feed belt onto LHS and clip into place Then back off LHS until belt goes onto water pump pulley. Return LHS to correct 12 o clock position When feeding belt onto cam shaft pulley, it is very hard to align belt ... so turn the cam back until the marker on the belt can be made to align with the painted marker on the cam shaft pulley, then turn cam shaft back into position Install tensioner spring (or do this at the start) 2 X 12 mm bolts Use tensioner pulley to force belt aside and screw in large bolt. Rotate engine over 2X to confirm all is clear. Motor can be turned over to check at this stage. I would have the plugs and coil packs in and connected so that there is no build up of spark and something electrical blows. If timing is out (in my case because LHS cam was clicked into 12 o clock instead of 9 o clock ( as per some youtube recommendations) you will hear knocking in the motor ... so turn it off immediately and start again (so much quicker and easier 2nd time round...reckon I could do the whole thing in an hour! Good luck Thanks for the videos
you want cylinder 1 at the top and as cylinder 1 comes up air should push out the spark plug hole (compression stroke), you also want to make sure your cam lobes are not pushing the valves, meaning they are closed
It’s the cylinder head off a V6 6VD1. Isuzu rodeo 3.2L. This is just for demonstration purpose only. Mearly showing why you don’t time this engine without ‘clicking’ the heads. 👍
No only in one side. The proper timing procedure I believe is. Passenger side head snaps to 12 o clock Drivers side you snap to 9 O clock then turn to 12 o’clock. It will have tension and want to snap again but that is proper.
If you think about it. If you let both heads snap to 12 o clock then called it good. Every valve would be shut at once. I can confirm the proper procedure I a follow up video.
@@r1beef88 right. I was just confirming once that one head snaps to 12 o’clock it is good there. Your correct on the left head, snaps to 9 o’clock then you rotate it up to 12 o’clock.
Your video makes sense to me. Of course I am grateful that your demonstration showed the valves upside down so I could see the valves opening and closing.
Thanks for making this video without this video i never would have been able to get mu rodeo running again I did water pump timing belt timing pully and tensionior and i had everything lined up 3 times i went through completely re assembled the vehicle for it not to work after watching the Isuzu timing procedure video 50 times and seeing this video it clicked in my brain i clocked the heads hooked up the radiator before reassembling everything again and she purred to life now i just got to fix my sticky lifters
Right on mang. That’s good stuff I appreciate it. Glad the video gave some clarity.
This is sooo helpful dude thank you so much
Thank you for this video 🙏
You bet. 👍
Great video
So what position do you want them and I am looking at a 91 with a bad timing belt placement but it is now thank you
I am unfamiliar with the engine in the 91 unfortunately.
Don't know if you're still working on this but a 91 would be a sohc to my knowledge, thus no clocking necessary. However it's worth checking the rocker shafts and valves if you got it apart, I'm overhauling my heads right now and got major wear for only 113k
What kind of issue or sound would the engine be making if this wasn’t done properly? I have a 1998 trooper that just had an axiom engine installed into it and had the timing belt replaced. My engine is making a weird fluttering sound when you press the gas. It’s running but idles ruff around 2k bounces up and down. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hey there sorry for the late reply. So the very first time I changed the belt I messed up the timing on one of the heads. The drivers side I think. It started up and ran but there was obviously something not right. I drove it for a day or two before I could change it and set it properly.
If I remember correctly it surged and idled rough. Had a bad engine performance and didn’t want to rev up much. Once I adjusted it it ran totally smoothly. I can’t remember how it sounded but it’s idle was loppey and had power suges while driving.
If you haven’t done so yet and have the means or capability then definitely check the timing and reset the whole system. Clock both heads and put the timing belt on properly. Then at least you’ll know if that was the problem. Good luck mang let me know 🤘🤘
hey i got an off topic question. do you have to drop the front axle to remove the engine or does the transmission move back or both?
You will need to lower the front brace in order to clear the oil pan. If you separate the transmission and drop it down you can lift the engine out without lowering the front. But if you plan to take out the engine and trans together you have to lower the front. Remove the front driveshaft. I believe you can get away with loosening the the sub frame and not removing the axle and everything in order to lower it enough for clearance.
@@r1beef88 wow man that worked. my mechanic and i fought for 4 days to get it out. we ripped the clutch fingers out of the lock ring not sure if we did that right. everything was rusted. thats what was really holding us up mostly. we ended up disconnecting the trans and unbolted the axle. everything is ez as pie after this. thank you for the reply there wasnt much on the forums and the book isnt for beginners.
Just been through this with my Rodeo 3.5...
There are some postings on youtube that are incorrect. This site is the correct one. Make sure to watch the other sites "tear down" 1-10
In short: with timing belt off (about to be replaced)... install tensioner spring but not tensioner pulley.
Check that the large 17mm tensioner bolt will thread into the correct hole (mine did not ... took too long to discover this)
camshaft rotated until groove (cut out is at 3 o clock). Painted mark on pulley will be at 9 o clock
RHS cam mark will be at 12 o clock - remember to turn it until it clicks into place at 12 o clock
LHS cam mark rotated until clicked into place at 9 o clock TO THE CAM MARKER ... then rotated manually until at 12 o clock.
Feed belt onto RHS and clip into place - align marks on belt, letters readable from the front of the car.
Feed belt onto LHS and clip into place
Then back off LHS until belt goes onto water pump pulley. Return LHS to correct 12 o clock position
When feeding belt onto cam shaft pulley, it is very hard to align belt ... so turn the cam back until the marker on the belt can be made to align with the painted marker on the cam shaft pulley, then turn cam shaft back into position
Install tensioner spring (or do this at the start) 2 X 12 mm bolts
Use tensioner pulley to force belt aside and screw in large bolt.
Rotate engine over 2X to confirm all is clear.
Motor can be turned over to check at this stage. I would have the plugs and coil packs in and connected so that there is no build up of spark and something electrical blows.
If timing is out (in my case because LHS cam was clicked into 12 o clock instead of 9 o clock ( as per some youtube recommendations) you will hear knocking in the motor ... so turn it off immediately and start again (so much quicker and easier 2nd time round...reckon I could do the whole thing in an hour!
Good luck
Thanks for the videos
you want cylinder 1 at the top and as cylinder 1 comes up air should push out the spark plug hole (compression stroke), you also want to make sure your cam lobes are not pushing the valves, meaning they are closed
👍👍👍👍🌞
Ur doing a 3 cylinder engin..... Ofcoz it will be a 2/3 rotation lol..... I came for a 4 cylinder search 😢
It’s the cylinder head off a V6 6VD1. Isuzu rodeo 3.2L. This is just for demonstration purpose only. Mearly showing why you don’t time this engine without ‘clicking’ the heads. 👍
So pretty much once it snaps straight down then it is good?
No only in one side. The proper timing procedure I believe is.
Passenger side head snaps to 12 o clock
Drivers side you snap to 9 O clock then turn to 12 o’clock. It will have tension and want to snap again but that is proper.
Yep! 👍. No!
If you think about it. If you let both heads snap to 12 o clock then called it good. Every valve would be shut at once. I can confirm the proper procedure I a follow up video.
@@r1beef88 right. I was just confirming once that one head snaps to 12 o’clock it is good there. Your correct on the left head, snaps to 9 o’clock then you rotate it up to 12 o’clock.
I have a 96 rodeo 3.2 and the timing marks are different. I have not found any real good videos for the proper procedure to do the timing
So the cam sprocket is not directly attached to the cam, wtf
As you can see, there is only one pulley turning both cams. Take off your cam cover and you will understand why
4 valves per cylinder what a dumb idea.
???