Also, to avoid carburetor gumming, every time I’m done running mine, I turn the petcock off & let the tractor run the carb bowl out of fuel. It takes maybe 15 seconds shutting down. Then when I want to use it, I turn the fuel on & give the carb bowl a minute to refill before starting. That way it can sit months between uses without any carb issues.
The old man I got mine from told me only open 3/4 turn theres abouts, aways shut off like u did. He paid for a house and 1/4 section with with this brand new 49 9n farming watermelon ,nw ok
We just bout a 9N for 2800$ that was completely restored. The man I bought it from not only rebuilt it but he did little things here and there that make it easier to work on and maintain. It was the 4th one he’s redone. Rebuilt engine, transmission, new tires, new radiator, new gas tank, new battery, 12v conversion, new lights front and back, cool copper fuel line setup, nice paint job. Battery shut off switch on dash, tool box on fender, hand made steering wheel, new brakes and a new rim or two. The things truly mint, I feel like he sold it to us because not only did we need one but because it was gonna get a nice garage to sit in. Also my little girls softened him and his wife up lol. We won’t ever sell it, it’s on our small two acres from now on.
Tractor supply is an easy place to go. They sell rotary mowers. You’ll need an overrunning clutch though so the mower doesn’t keep pushing the tractor after you try to stop.
When I was looking for a "woods" tractor, I was leaning initially for something like a John Deere B, but they're too top heavy for woods work and most have tricycle front wheels and with the wider steering option installed, then they're TOO wide for woods use. Great for field mowing, but land use theyre too big. Without spending 3-5 times the money, you cannot beat the versatility of an N series tractor. That's why 75+ years old, they're still working or being sought after for collectors
Great input. I recently bought a '48 8N that is sound and running, but has been receiving TLC from me. This is for driveway and drainage work on 5 acres, and I paid basically the equivalent of 8 days of tractor rental for a tractor of my own, and have a fun restoration project also.
I rebuilt one of these 7 years ago. 3 things to do to make it trouble free if in good repair: 12 volt conversion with new harness. Electronic ignition kit and high voltage coil. Use only ethanol-free gas to avoid fuel system corrosion. All low cost. Mine has run the last 7 years trouble free.
I bought a 1941 9N in 1968 when our neighbor sold his farm. I was the second owner and now wish I still had it. My dad sold in the mid 80’s when he quit farming. We had a 3 point hitch 2-12 plow, sickle mower and a buzz saw. Plowed a 20 acre field one spring also mowed a lot hay with that tractor. We’d put the saw on every fall and saw wood for winter heat. We added an aftermarket loader. Yes you’re right about that tractor could be dangerous with the clutch brake setup that it had.
I have a 1946 2N... We live on a little 4.25 acre homestead out in the country. I initially bought a 70s John Deere 2030 diesel industrial tractor with a front loader. I used that tractor to shape up the land the way I wanted it...and other more heavy duty type work, just before and just after our house was built. The John Deere was a fairly complex tractor, and I didn't want to get into a situation of having repairs I couldn't do myself, or were too costly. So once I got a lot of the bigger work done, I was ready for a good garden tractor, and then some. The John Deere developed a couple issues, and I was able to do an even trade for for my 2N. The guy I traded with had just finished restoring the Ford. So I got a really nice, parade ready tractor, that runs beautifully. I've got 5 attachments... 5ft brush hog, cultivator, scraper bucket, boom pole, and a middle buster. I get tons of work done with those attachments. The hydraulic thing took some getting used to, but its second nature now. I do find myself getting the front pretty high off the ground, when weight is on the back of the tractor...log skidding for example. I'm looking for counter weights to put on the front. But I love that little tractor, I use it for way more than I ever thought I would. And its really easy to do regular maintenance on. It cranks right on the first hit every time. I will probably get something slightly more advanced, eventually...but I will still keep the 2N. I hear people say all the time, that you can't do any real work with N series tractors...and its flat out not true.
That's the thing..I can work on these tractors, and parts aren't very expensive..when you get into a diesel tractor, even an older one from the 60's or 70's, unless you are an experienced diesel mechanic, much harder to work on, more complex, and the parts are MUCH, MUCH more expensive..and sometimes hard to find(try pricing out a rebuilt injection pump for, say, a late '60's-1970's Ford 3000 Diesel..$$$$!)..yes, diesels have advantages, but if you are a DIY mechanic on your equipment, the 9N-8N-NAA-600-800-601-801-200-4000 gas engine tractors are hard to beat for simplicity and parts cost. I often wish they still made a gas engine tractor about the same size as these...
I had an 8N down in Rockport Texas which was stolen right off of my 20 acres. They stole my trailer, contents to the barn, my other diesel tractor, implements, and so dam much more. I had to go on a project overseas and was gone 4 weeks. The insurance company paid off but pennies on the dollar. Of everything I had stolen, my 1952 Ford 8N was the gut wrenching loss in my opinion. Sometimes we really get attached to our equipment.
I've got a 1949 ford 8N. I bought it several years ago and love it. When I bought it, it needed a starter. I replaced the starter. So far it's been good to me. I bush hog, plow,pull log out of the woods, till my garden, I've put around 300 hrs a year on it.
I have an 8N I got about 5 years ago and use it a few times a year. I switched it from a 6v to a 12 v system and I'm happy with it. I just used it to pull a 20ft x 20 ft metal carport from one side of the lot to the other and it had no problem.
Hey. Nice video. I have 1949 8N myself. Very good machine all though same problem with charging. I have 6V system and I’m planning to convert it to 12V this summer. Happy riding.😊
I've had my 2n a few months now to help a neighbor with horse manure spreading... honestly it works great. As Dirty Harry said, a man (or tractor) has got to know his limitations... so long as you do, it's one of the best old machines I've had to work on.
I grew up with a 1939 9N as the farm's utility tractor. Within their capabilities, these are great little tractors. In today's market, you can get a good running N-series tractor in the $12-1500 range. The cost increase to more modern tractors is significant: even staying in the Ford line a functional NAA model is twice that or more. This isn't a good tractor for loader work, the none full time hydraulics and the balance of the tractor plus no front wheel drive really work against a loader. But if the work you are planning to do is from the back of the tractor, this very much is the tractor for you. Lastly, if you can find one with a Sherman auxiliary transmission go for it. It adds one to two additional ranges to the gears you can select from, slowing down fist gear or giving you a better speed to pull a hay rake if that is your thing.
We have a 57 600 with a live PTO on the family farm down here in SC it it’s a work horse! The family has had it since the 70’s and the only thing we really have had to do to it was fix the lift replace the distributor and the coil.
8n, everything you need, nothing you don't. The only thing that a real negative is the lack of live PTO/Hydraulics. But simply installing an overrunning clutch on the PTO shaft (and most already have that) will fix that. They're a little underpowered for real field work by modern standards, but they're perfect for a landowner needing a tractor to skid logs, mow or grade gravel roads. Did a 12volt conversion on mine so I could install modern LEDs for night/low light use and that's about it. Only major thing to keep in mind many owners forget is that these tractors were designed to run LEADED gas, so you NEED to add "lead substitute" to your fuel or you will damage the valve seats and cylinders over time. A single bottle of the stuff (I use gumout brand) will last a whole season for me. To "winterize", I run gas wirh fuel stabilizer for about 15 min, then run the carb out of gas by shutting off the fuel, pull the battery. Check coolant to make sure it's good to -30f (for my area) and then throw the tarp over her until next spring. Only issue I ever had starting was after a rain storm, the points got a little water in them. After drying the area out and running a small patch of matchbook through the gap, it fired right up. Bottom line, for 1500-3000, you can't beat it
Hello Derek, Regarding the distributor on the older 8N tractor: Don’t try to service it while it’s on the machine. Instead, unclip the cap and then remove the entire distributor via the two ½ inch bolts. Once removed, you can easily replace the points and condenser. You can also set the points without having to hunt for the proper place on the cam lobes with that remote starter. Thank you for the beautiful video. Sincerely Aaron P.S. You may want to consider a 3-point stabilizer kit instead of depending on the chains. Here is an UA-cam example: ua-cam.com/video/6Shn6srAL78/v-deo.html
The groove for the drive tang on the back of the distributor is offset to one side on the camshaft and it can be difficult to tell which is the wide side and which is the narrow side. The best thing to do before taking the distributor off is to pop the cap off and make a note of where the rotor is pointing. Installing the distributor 180 deg. out can break the distributor housing. Mine has cracks around the rear bushing because it was installed wrong at some time and it wallowed the groove in the end of the camshaft enough that I replaced it when overhauling the engine. My Dad used to service the points on ours without removing the distributor. I don’t have the patience to do that. You need small hands, a mirror, and bright lighting.
Im a "citidiot" living in the suburbs of Minneapolis. I have a 52. It does an amazing amount of work, i have had to put quite a bit into it, but the parts have been very cheap. They have the parts instock still at a lot of places. Very easy to work on. Really all the repairs are from 70 years of neglect. Once you fix everything they just will keeppppp running forever. Starts up faster than my cars do.
I was given a 631, when I bought my farm, I borrowed an 8n, the difference in power is worth it. The newer tractor hydraulics are separate from the pto. Have fun
We have one to move cars at the body shop Very strong it pulled my 5700lb truck out of the mud with no issues it’s original everything except it has some new lights my uncle even managed to break our lift bar with it
A neighbor bought a new Mahendra started bailing hay. It blew the hydraulic pump, and he wound up borrowing the old 801 workmaster bailed all 20 acres .it took a week for them to fix that mess .he sold it after the 2nd pump went out
@@DereksWorkshopAndProjectsI sited the most popular reason why! I see 9Ns with them more often and they sure needed it. I don't know if a 9N unit will work on an 8N or not. They were available clear thru the 601/801 series and definitely had to handle more torque. Those also had an available underdrive along with overdrive.
These machines are like comparing a Lincoln SA-200 to a modern inverter machine. The older tractor like the SA200, are both simple easy to repair & get the job done.
I have the Ford Golden Jubilee their 50th anniversary model . I've had it for about 25 years and haven't had an ounce of troiuble with it. I mostly use it for mowing. This thing will outlast me.
Check into a electronic ignition. I put one in mine for about $100 and no more China ignition parts for me. It hasn't given me any problems at all since a changed it. Next project will be changing the front bushings and wheel bearings. Mine in a 8N (1947 year built), still considered a 1948 and yes mine is on the front of the motor.
I personally would go for a 70's tractor like a John Deere 2030 you've got the power to do heavier tasks and they can handle a frontloader. They are direct injected diesels thoug but their super relaiable and quite easy to work on.
My grandpa had an 8 N it was like brand new he kept it painted up and fancy it was just something to play around with after he retired they’re good tractors however they’re too dam fast,,, you can get one with a Sherman or maybe put one on yourself it will slow them down but it also slows down the RPMs they’re tricky to screw with if they would’ve put the right transmission in them I would say they’d be just right. I would recommend to anyone to never run one of these tractors without some kind of a implement on the back a blade or something they used to call these widowmakers years ago if the wheels get froze up in winter time and won’t go forward the first thing A lot of folks did was throw them in reverse to try and break loose and when they did a lot of times it flipped over in less than a second and killed the operator,,,something to think about and have a roll bar installed
There were very little differences in the 2N and 9Ns others then the name and that was due to restrictions the federal government had on them due to the war effort, so a lot of manufactures would change the designation of the tractors so they could sell more of basically the same tracto. Government limited how many of which models they could sell. The 8N came out after WW2 and with minor changes were still the same tractor.
I had an 8n for 15 years, lost it in Hurricane Harvey- it was under water for days- I replaced it with a Ford 1715 diesel, with POWER STEERING, 4WD, and Front end loader- I found my dream tractor on Tractorhouse (Internet) and picked it up for a reasonable price in Tupelo, Miss. After making a number of small repairs (all less than I had to do when I bought the 8N) the tractor has moved many tons of dirt and felled trees, drilled many holes, and is invaluable around my homestead. IT ALWAYS STARTS, runs strong, and has been a real pleasure to own and operate. I can run all day on 5 gallons of diesel. I get tired long before the tractor has to come back to the barn for fuel. BE AWARE- the hydraulics on the 8N are PRIMITIVE, (they are not live) and prevent you from proper use OR ADDITION of a front end loader, and operating rear lift attachments REQUIRES frequent wrestling with the clutch and lift levers. The lack of power steering wears you out if you are not driving in a straight line. The lack of 4WD make the tractor easy to get stuck in any but dry conditions. I am so much happier with my MODERN FORD 1715 TRACTOR (but simple- not like the late model Kubotas or other- plus the Kubota dealer laughed at me when I told him what my budget was) THAT ALTHOUGH I REALLY LIKED MY 8N, I WOULD NEVER CONSIDER BUYING AN 8N AGAIN!!!! My point- consider your anticipated useage carefully- if you need the capabilities of a modern tractor, you will not be satisfied with an 8N. THE REASON THAT 8N TRACTORS ARE AVAILABLE, is that when the modern tractors with live hydraulics came out, the 8n's were relegated to the barn, where they sat until the more useful tractors were worn out. The 8N's were used to power a mower. That's it. Be aware!!
What a Great Gift! Had my ‘39 for going on 40 years. After the brush hog (which came w/ it) the Best implement I’ve bought was a “carry all” which I turned into a box for hauling wood. Last year or two, since he’s getting old and lifting for close to 20 years around 800# and driving through the woods with it, I got a wood trailer to not keep pushing my luck. If you ever have to work on distributor, take off the fan belt first. And keep him dry! It’s not a big tractor, but it gets into small places. Enjoy!
Actually they started the 8ns in mid 47 but badged them as 48s so check your vin/serial numbers on the older ones you may have an early 1... mine is a 47 but was sold originally as a 48
I know where there is a non running ‘ 53 8N for sale ridiculously cheap, the seller has it listed as a 1953 Jubillee. He/she doesn’t even know what they have. If I could borrow a trailer I would buy it in a second. It’s covered in dust but the paint and sheet metal are excellent. The tires look like new. It may be a case of a widow selling her late husband’s stuff. I won’t pay over $1000 for an 8N no matter how old it looks or if it even runs. I have our ‘49 that I recently overhauled and a ‘51 that I bought a year ago($800)and was hoping to start it up for the first time today but I woke up with a severe cold so that will have to wait a few days.
For me the debate is if I want to pay 2-3k for an N series, or spend 2k more for a slightly newer tractor with a bucket. Something like a 197x Ford 5000. The lack of a bucket on the N series tractors is the one thing that gives me hesitation as it means I will for sure need another piece of equipment eventually. I am not opposed to this but it's the main sticking point.
I would definitely shell out for a newer tractor with a bucket if you can find it for just a couple thousand more. And I definitely have myself. I’m kind of getting tired of messing with mine and want to upgrade to a new “SCUT” but the problem is that I know I’m going to have to get a new truck before a new tractor so it’s just kind of… up in the air I guess.
Oil bath air filters are much easier then a paper filter. You take it off. Dump it out refill it and put it back on. Plus it’s free no need to buy a 20 dollar filter
Hey everyone, need some help from some tractor aficionados.....Old rancher down the road (82yrsold) has a Super M and wants a new bucket. I know little about tractors (but Im trying). Founf a bucket for a Ford N-Series for $550. Will it fit?
I have a 1942 9N. Due to its stupidity in PTO, 3 point lift, gearing, and brakes not being together on the right designs I strongly recommend the 8N if you are going to buy an N series. They are little work horses but have their limitations. The 9N and 2N can get you or someone in the vicinity hurt or killed because of their design, if you don't know what you're doing.
@@KevinJD2030 I guess I was thinking in terms of loaders etc. would be nice to get an aftermarket loader with skid steer attachments. Great old tractors and very serviceable.
@@andrewseamans1419 yeah okay now I get your point. I believe I've seen em with a gravity tip loader but I am not 100% sure. I think it probably can handle one but with how the hydraulics are I think it'll be a pain in the as to use it as a loader tractor.
I’m not through the video. Did you do the distributor upgrade for electronic ignition to get rid of the points & condenser? I did on my 9N. It works very well.
I see your not using the axel draw bars on your 3 point, many people who have the old tractors don’t know what I’m talking about, the axel bars put less pressure on your 3 point system. If you don’t know what they are, let me know.
The N series had their time and it ended 70 years ago. My dad used to have one and it spent about a half hour being worked on for every of work it performed. He traded it for a New Holland Boomer 40. The New Holland has had less down time in the last decade than that 8N would every spring. Besides the lack of live hydraulics and PTO they are also far too light in the front, even with suitcase weights.
That probably is the best thing to do, problem is, the N series seem to be everywhere, those models are almost. No where to be found, at least in my area.
I’ll add that I did see a 7000 in my area recently and they wanted roughly 10k for it. At that point I’ll just spend the extra 10k and buy a brand new one myself, but that depends on everyone’s needs and uses of course. But I agree with you, really.
The Harry Ferguson TO 20, 30, 35 are a very good tractors too and in my opinion a better tractor than the ford 8n although their parts are a little more expensive than the ford and a littler harder to find.
@@darronlewark6504 it has a lot better features than the 8n or 9n. A nice tilting hood where you can get to most everything, an overhead valve engine and some other things.
I have an 8n for 4 years and it's been a great tractor. Brakes are not good even with new brake shoes I installed new rear axle seals and they still leak a little enough to get on the brake shoes. Someone needs to have an upgrade brrakes.
Any points and condenser, carburetor engine will require much more maintenance than a fuel injected, computer controlled engine BUT with the older technology you have less wires for rats to chew and no technician you have to hire. With just a little knowledge anybody can fix them.
You have to be short to drive and come on I had one they're great they pull good but they're just a pain in the ass to drive and I'm short I can't imagine someone 6 ft tall driving one of them things
Also, to avoid carburetor gumming, every time I’m done running mine, I turn the petcock off & let the tractor run the carb bowl out of fuel. It takes maybe 15 seconds shutting down. Then when I want to use it, I turn the fuel on & give the carb bowl a minute to refill before starting. That way it can sit months between uses without any carb issues.
My dad has done that on our old John Deere m’s and little cub for years. Always has helped tremendously.
The old man I got mine from told me only open 3/4 turn theres abouts, aways shut off like u did. He paid for a house and 1/4 section with with this brand new 49 9n farming watermelon ,nw ok
THIS. this is the only way to shut em down. let em run dry and you get far better results
Thats what I do with my 8n and never have carb issues
I put a few ounces of Marvel mystery Oil in the gas and it always fires off months later without turning anything off.
We just bout a 9N for 2800$ that was completely restored. The man I bought it from not only rebuilt it but he did little things here and there that make it easier to work on and maintain. It was the 4th one he’s redone. Rebuilt engine, transmission, new tires, new radiator, new gas tank, new battery, 12v conversion, new lights front and back, cool copper fuel line setup, nice paint job. Battery shut off switch on dash, tool box on fender, hand made steering wheel, new brakes and a new rim or two. The things truly mint, I feel like he sold it to us because not only did we need one but because it was gonna get a nice garage to sit in. Also my little girls softened him and his wife up lol. We won’t ever sell it, it’s on our small two acres from now on.
I'm about to get a same one, but will need the back attachment to mow some acres, any idea of where to buy it?
Tractor supply is an easy place to go. They sell rotary mowers. You’ll need an overrunning clutch though so the mower doesn’t keep pushing the tractor after you try to stop.
When I was looking for a "woods" tractor, I was leaning initially for something like a John Deere B, but they're too top heavy for woods work and most have tricycle front wheels and with the wider steering option installed, then they're TOO wide for woods use. Great for field mowing, but land use theyre too big. Without spending 3-5 times the money, you cannot beat the versatility of an N series tractor. That's why 75+ years old, they're still working or being sought after for collectors
Great input. I recently bought a '48 8N that is sound and running, but has been receiving TLC from me. This is for driveway and drainage work on 5 acres, and I paid basically the equivalent of 8 days of tractor rental for a tractor of my own, and have a fun restoration project also.
I rebuilt one of these 7 years ago. 3 things to do to make it trouble free if in good repair: 12 volt conversion with new harness. Electronic ignition kit and high voltage coil. Use only ethanol-free gas to avoid fuel system corrosion. All low cost. Mine has run the last 7 years trouble free.
Noted on the ethanol free gas!
I bought a 1941 9N in 1968 when our neighbor sold his farm. I was the second owner and now wish I still had it. My dad sold in the mid 80’s when he quit farming. We had a 3 point hitch 2-12 plow, sickle mower and a buzz saw. Plowed a 20 acre field one spring also mowed a lot hay with that tractor. We’d put the saw on every fall and saw wood for winter heat. We added an aftermarket loader. Yes you’re right about that tractor could be dangerous with the clutch brake setup that it had.
I have a 1946 2N... We live on a little 4.25 acre homestead out in the country. I initially bought a 70s John Deere 2030 diesel industrial tractor with a front loader. I used that tractor to shape up the land the way I wanted it...and other more heavy duty type work, just before and just after our house was built.
The John Deere was a fairly complex tractor, and I didn't want to get into a situation of having repairs I couldn't do myself, or were too costly. So once I got a lot of the bigger work done, I was ready for a good garden tractor, and then some.
The John Deere developed a couple issues, and I was able to do an even trade for for my 2N. The guy I traded with had just finished restoring the Ford. So I got a really nice, parade ready tractor, that runs beautifully.
I've got 5 attachments... 5ft brush hog, cultivator, scraper bucket, boom pole, and a middle buster. I get tons of work done with those attachments.
The hydraulic thing took some getting used to, but its second nature now. I do find myself getting the front pretty high off the ground, when weight is on the back of the tractor...log skidding for example. I'm looking for counter weights to put on the front.
But I love that little tractor, I use it for way more than I ever thought I would. And its really easy to do regular maintenance on. It cranks right on the first hit every time. I will probably get something slightly more advanced, eventually...but I will still keep the 2N.
I hear people say all the time, that you can't do any real work with N series tractors...and its flat out not true.
That's the thing..I can work on these tractors, and parts aren't very expensive..when you get into a diesel tractor, even an older one from the 60's or 70's, unless you are an experienced diesel mechanic, much harder to work on, more complex, and the parts are MUCH, MUCH more expensive..and sometimes hard to find(try pricing out a rebuilt injection pump for, say, a late '60's-1970's Ford 3000 Diesel..$$$$!)..yes, diesels have advantages, but if you are a DIY mechanic on your equipment, the 9N-8N-NAA-600-800-601-801-200-4000 gas engine tractors are hard to beat for simplicity and parts cost. I often wish they still made a gas engine tractor about the same size as these...
I had an 8N down in Rockport Texas which was stolen right off of my 20 acres. They stole my trailer, contents to the barn, my other diesel tractor, implements, and so dam much more. I had to go on a project overseas and was gone 4 weeks. The insurance company paid off but pennies on the dollar. Of everything I had stolen, my 1952 Ford 8N was the gut wrenching loss in my opinion. Sometimes we really get attached to our equipment.
That’s horrible! I’m so sorry man! I am guessing they were watching you and knew you were leaving town. Nothing like a good 8N.
Also,in 53 Ford came out with the Naa, which has live hydraulic system and a bigger motor. I love mine.
I've got a 1949 ford 8N. I bought it several years ago and love it. When I bought it, it needed a starter. I replaced the starter. So far it's been good to me. I bush hog, plow,pull log out of the woods, till my garden, I've put around 300 hrs a year on it.
Nice tractor. I got a MF T20 last year. Almost the same tractor. Ford and Massey had something going on. I forget. Definitely a keeper
I have an 8N I got about 5 years ago and use it a few times a year. I switched it from a 6v to a 12 v system and I'm happy with it. I just used it to pull a 20ft x 20 ft metal carport from one side of the lot to the other and it had no problem.
Hey. Nice video. I have 1949 8N myself. Very good machine all though same problem with charging. I have 6V system and I’m planning to convert it to 12V this summer. Happy riding.😊
I've had my 2n a few months now to help a neighbor with horse manure spreading... honestly it works great. As Dirty Harry said, a man (or tractor) has got to know his limitations... so long as you do, it's one of the best old machines I've had to work on.
I enjoyed Your reference to C. Eastwood.
We love our 8n. It’s been in the family since new.
I grew up with a 1939 9N as the farm's utility tractor. Within their capabilities, these are great little tractors. In today's market, you can get a good running N-series tractor in the $12-1500 range. The cost increase to more modern tractors is significant: even staying in the Ford line a functional NAA model is twice that or more. This isn't a good tractor for loader work, the none full time hydraulics and the balance of the tractor plus no front wheel drive really work against a loader. But if the work you are planning to do is from the back of the tractor, this very much is the tractor for you. Lastly, if you can find one with a Sherman auxiliary transmission go for it. It adds one to two additional ranges to the gears you can select from, slowing down fist gear or giving you a better speed to pull a hay rake if that is your thing.
We have a 57 600 with a live PTO on the family farm down here in SC it it’s a work horse! The family has had it since the 70’s and the only thing we really have had to do to it was fix the lift replace the distributor and the coil.
8n, everything you need, nothing you don't. The only thing that a real negative is the lack of live PTO/Hydraulics. But simply installing an overrunning clutch on the PTO shaft (and most already have that) will fix that. They're a little underpowered for real field work by modern standards, but they're perfect for a landowner needing a tractor to skid logs, mow or grade gravel roads. Did a 12volt conversion on mine so I could install modern LEDs for night/low light use and that's about it. Only major thing to keep in mind many owners forget is that these tractors were designed to run LEADED gas, so you NEED to add "lead substitute" to your fuel or you will damage the valve seats and cylinders over time. A single bottle of the stuff (I use gumout brand) will last a whole season for me. To "winterize", I run gas wirh fuel stabilizer for about 15 min, then run the carb out of gas by shutting off the fuel, pull the battery. Check coolant to make sure it's good to -30f (for my area) and then throw the tarp over her until next spring. Only issue I ever had starting was after a rain storm, the points got a little water in them. After drying the area out and running a small patch of matchbook through the gap, it fired right up. Bottom line, for 1500-3000, you can't beat it
Hello Derek,
Regarding the distributor on the older 8N tractor:
Don’t try to service it while it’s on the machine. Instead, unclip the cap and then remove the entire distributor via the two ½ inch bolts. Once removed, you can easily replace the points and condenser. You can also set the points without having to hunt for the proper place on the cam lobes with that remote starter.
Thank you for the beautiful video.
Sincerely
Aaron
P.S. You may want to consider a 3-point stabilizer kit instead of depending on the chains. Here is an UA-cam example: ua-cam.com/video/6Shn6srAL78/v-deo.html
The groove for the drive tang on the back of the distributor is offset to one side on the camshaft and it can be difficult to tell which is the wide side and which is the narrow side. The best thing to do before taking the distributor off is to pop the cap off and make a note of where the rotor is pointing. Installing the distributor 180 deg. out can break the distributor housing. Mine has cracks around the rear bushing because it was installed wrong at some time and it wallowed the groove in the end of the camshaft enough that I replaced it when overhauling the engine. My Dad used to service the points on ours without removing the distributor. I don’t have the patience to do that. You need small hands, a mirror, and bright lighting.
@@jameslester3861 I didn't know that about the groove. Always check the cap first like you said.
Im a "citidiot" living in the suburbs of Minneapolis. I have a 52. It does an amazing amount of work, i have had to put quite a bit into it, but the parts have been very cheap. They have the parts instock still at a lot of places. Very easy to work on. Really all the repairs are from 70 years of neglect. Once you fix everything they just will keeppppp running forever. Starts up faster than my cars do.
I was given a 631, when I bought my farm, I borrowed an 8n, the difference in power is worth it. The newer tractor hydraulics are separate from the pto. Have fun
We have one to move cars at the body shop Very strong it pulled my 5700lb truck out of the mud with no issues it’s original everything except it has some new lights my uncle even managed to break our lift bar with it
Super handy little tractor to have for sure!
I got my 1948 8N Tractor for $2300 and it has been great so far.
Good price I think. Depending on the condition I guess.
Well done. Great video. I’m new to Ford Tractors and you laid it out very good. Thanks bud!
Thanks for watching!
A neighbor bought a new Mahendra started bailing hay. It blew the hydraulic pump, and he wound up borrowing the old 801 workmaster bailed all 20 acres .it took a week for them to fix that mess .he sold it after the 2nd pump went out
Reliability seems to be a huge issue in new tractors.
An 8N with a Sherman transmission makes a zippy little parade tractor, easy to haul, not hard to repair or find parts for and run all day on 2 gallons
I really wanted the Sherman transmission but those seem highly sought after and hard to get!
@@DereksWorkshopAndProjectsI sited the most popular reason why! I see 9Ns with them more often and they sure needed it. I don't know if a 9N unit will work on an 8N or not. They were available clear thru the 601/801 series and definitely had to handle more torque. Those also had an available underdrive along with overdrive.
These machines are like comparing a Lincoln SA-200 to a modern inverter machine. The older tractor like the SA200, are both simple easy to repair & get the job done.
I just traded my f250 for a 961, not sure what year, but I absolutely love it.
I put a inline fuel filter just above the carburetor 9 years ago and haven't had to touch it since.
Thank you for a very informative video. I learn a lot and feel good about the 8N I purchased a few months ago.
I have the Ford Golden Jubilee their 50th anniversary model . I've had it for about 25 years and haven't had an ounce of troiuble with it. I mostly use it for mowing. This thing will outlast me.
Check into a electronic ignition. I put one in mine for about $100 and no more China ignition parts for me. It hasn't given me any problems at all since a changed it. Next project will be changing the front bushings and wheel bearings. Mine in a 8N (1947 year built), still considered a 1948 and yes mine is on the front of the motor.
Ford went to a side distributor in 1950
Fergieman
I personally would go for a 70's tractor like a John Deere 2030 you've got the power to do heavier tasks and they can handle a frontloader. They are direct injected diesels thoug but their super relaiable and quite easy to work on.
My grandpa had an 8 N it was like brand new he kept it painted up and fancy it was just something to play around with after he retired they’re good tractors however they’re too dam fast,,, you can get one with a Sherman or maybe put one on yourself it will slow them down but it also slows down the RPMs they’re tricky to screw with if they would’ve put the right transmission in them I would say they’d be just right. I would recommend to anyone to never run one of these tractors without some kind of a implement on the back a blade or something they used to call these widowmakers years ago if the wheels get froze up in winter time and won’t go forward the first thing A lot of folks did was throw them in reverse to try and break loose and when they did a lot of times it flipped over in less than a second and killed the operator,,,something to think about and have a roll bar installed
I agree. First gear can be way too fast. It needed a crawler gear.
There were very little differences in the 2N and 9Ns others then the name and that was due to restrictions the federal government had on them due to the war effort, so a lot of manufactures would change the designation of the tractors so they could sell more of basically the same tracto. Government limited how many of which models they could sell. The 8N came out after WW2 and with minor changes were still the same tractor.
It’s your AMP gauge is why it’s not charging that happened to me
I had an 8n for 15 years, lost it in Hurricane Harvey- it was under water for days- I replaced it with a Ford 1715 diesel, with POWER STEERING, 4WD, and Front end loader- I found my dream tractor on Tractorhouse (Internet) and picked it up for a reasonable price in Tupelo, Miss. After making a number of small repairs (all less than I had to do when I bought the 8N) the tractor has moved many tons of dirt and felled trees, drilled many holes, and is invaluable around my homestead. IT ALWAYS STARTS, runs strong, and has been a real pleasure to own and operate. I can run all day on 5 gallons of diesel. I get tired long before the tractor has to come back to the barn for fuel.
BE AWARE- the hydraulics on the 8N are PRIMITIVE, (they are not live) and prevent you from proper use OR ADDITION of a front end loader, and operating rear lift attachments REQUIRES frequent wrestling with the clutch and lift levers. The lack of power steering wears you out if you are not driving in a straight line. The lack of 4WD make the tractor easy to get stuck in any but dry conditions. I am so much happier with my MODERN FORD 1715 TRACTOR (but simple- not like the late model Kubotas or other- plus the Kubota dealer laughed at me when I told him what my budget was) THAT ALTHOUGH I REALLY LIKED MY 8N, I WOULD NEVER CONSIDER BUYING AN 8N AGAIN!!!! My point- consider your anticipated useage carefully- if you need the capabilities of a modern tractor, you will not be satisfied with an 8N. THE REASON THAT 8N TRACTORS ARE AVAILABLE, is that when the modern tractors with live hydraulics came out, the 8n's were relegated to the barn, where they sat until the more useful tractors were worn out. The 8N's were used to power a mower. That's it. Be aware!!
I didn't buy mine...but I got it for Christmas 2022....a 1946 2n
What a Great Gift!
Had my ‘39 for going on 40 years. After the brush hog (which came w/ it) the Best implement I’ve bought was a “carry all” which I turned into a box for hauling wood. Last year or two, since he’s getting old and lifting for close to 20 years around 800# and driving through the woods with it, I got a wood trailer to not keep pushing my luck. If you ever have to work on distributor, take off the fan belt first. And keep him dry! It’s not a big tractor, but it gets into small places.
Enjoy!
Fabricating a 3-Point Carry All for my 1952 Ford 8N with YesWelder Machines
ua-cam.com/video/9LqFn-XkGUA/v-deo.html
Cutting Firewood with the Stihl MS180 and the 1952 Ford 8N with the Carry All
ua-cam.com/video/AnqnxHPB9UA/v-deo.html
Actually they started the 8ns in mid 47 but badged them as 48s so check your vin/serial numbers on the older ones you may have an early 1... mine is a 47 but was sold originally as a 48
Nice informative review Derek. Really enjoyed this.
Bought one just today. and yes that 1st gear is fast for people with slopes they need to be for warned.
Good video sir! Just got a 8N!
I know where there is a non running ‘ 53 8N for sale ridiculously cheap, the seller has it listed as a 1953 Jubillee. He/she doesn’t even know what they have. If I could borrow a trailer I would buy it in a second. It’s covered in dust but the paint and sheet metal are excellent. The tires look like new. It may be a case of a widow selling her late husband’s stuff. I won’t pay over $1000 for an 8N no matter how old it looks or if it even runs. I have our ‘49 that I recently overhauled and a ‘51 that I bought a year ago($800)and was hoping to start it up for the first time today but I woke up with a severe cold so that will have to wait a few days.
If it is a Jubilee, it will have live hydraulics- in which case it might be worthwhile-
For me the debate is if I want to pay 2-3k for an N series, or spend 2k more for a slightly newer tractor with a bucket. Something like a 197x Ford 5000. The lack of a bucket on the N series tractors is the one thing that gives me hesitation as it means I will for sure need another piece of equipment eventually. I am not opposed to this but it's the main sticking point.
I would definitely shell out for a newer tractor with a bucket if you can find it for just a couple thousand more. And I definitely have myself. I’m kind of getting tired of messing with mine and want to upgrade to a new “SCUT” but the problem is that I know I’m going to have to get a new truck before a new tractor so it’s just kind of… up in the air I guess.
Oil bath air filters are much easier then a paper filter. You take it off. Dump it out refill it and put it back on. Plus it’s free no need to buy a 20 dollar filter
Hey everyone, need some help from some tractor aficionados.....Old rancher down the road (82yrsold) has a Super M and wants a new bucket. I know little about tractors (but Im trying). Founf a bucket for a Ford N-Series for $550. Will it fit?
The Sherman add on transmission hi/low is VERY sought on for all versions...
I wish I had one. Reverse is WAY too fast. Even 1st gear doesn’t quite crawl enough for some tasks.
I have a 1942 9N. Due to its stupidity in PTO, 3 point lift, gearing, and brakes not being together on the right designs I strongly recommend the 8N if you are going to buy an N series. They are little work horses but have their limitations. The 9N and 2N can get you or someone in the vicinity hurt or killed because of their design, if you don't know what you're doing.
A 1942 is a 2N.
@Giversum Nope. 1939 to 1942.
Its always a good time to drag home Ns.
I wish they made more aftermarket attachments for these tractors. They are workhorses if well maintained.
You can use cat-1 3 point equipment with this tractor. It is available new and used as well.
@@KevinJD2030 I guess I was thinking in terms of loaders etc. would be nice to get an aftermarket loader with skid steer attachments. Great old tractors and very serviceable.
@@andrewseamans1419 yeah okay now I get your point. I believe I've seen em with a gravity tip loader but I am not 100% sure. I think it probably can handle one but with how the hydraulics are I think it'll be a pain in the as to use it as a loader tractor.
Great tractors
Anything old requires extra luv
I do see pertronix makes an electronic points conversion for $95
easy install works great!
Worth it , did that on mine.
I’m not through the video. Did you do the distributor upgrade for electronic ignition to get rid of the points & condenser? I did on my 9N. It works very well.
I see your not using the axel draw bars on your 3 point, many people who have the old tractors don’t know what I’m talking about, the axel bars put less pressure on your 3 point system. If you don’t know what they are, let me know.
I have a gray 9n and my great grandpa passed it down to me
I'm about to get a N9 but don't know where to buy the mower attachment.
Would this tractor be able maintain 10+acres? Plowing or Bush hogging? Inclines? Thank you for the info!
I bought it for a 10 acre homestead property originally. It’ll take some extra time than a bigger tractor but it’ll do the job.
The first time you have to pay for an injector pump, you will love a carburetor.
The main point of this story.
If it does exactly what you want done. Yes. Simple as that.
Needs the special Ford hydraulic. fluid..
Good video, thumbs up. What implement were you using to carry the logs?
Not 100% sure as it’s been a while since I made the video, but I believe it would have to be my 3 point boom pole.
Just reading your comment now I’m thinking you must be referring to my little carry all I made.
The 2N had a magneto.
My 8N has the distributor in the front........ What years had this? Thanks enjoyed this.
It’s a 52. The older models still had the front distributor.
@@DereksWorkshopAndProjects now at least I know mine is older than 52. Thanks
Dude some of these had a cyclone air cleaner with a glass jar i have owned one 45+ years i know for sure mine is factory
Mines got that, no glass jar
Best tractor ever
The N series had their time and it ended 70 years ago. My dad used to have one and it spent about a half hour being worked on for every of work it performed. He traded it for a New Holland Boomer 40. The New Holland has had less down time in the last decade than that 8N would every spring. Besides the lack of live hydraulics and PTO they are also far too light in the front, even with suitcase weights.
I'm getting to that point as well. It aint hard to fix but everytime I wanna use it I gotta work on it..
You sir, are correct.
My 2 cents: spend the extra money and move up to a Force style 3/4/5/7000 or a 26/36/46/56/66/7600
That probably is the best thing to do, problem is, the N series seem to be everywhere, those models are almost. No where to be found, at least in my area.
I’ll add that I did see a 7000 in my area recently and they wanted roughly 10k for it. At that point I’ll just spend the extra 10k and buy a brand new one myself, but that depends on everyone’s needs and uses of course. But I agree with you, really.
I love my ford 5600. It’s pretty much bulletproof.
Very helpful
Maybe they will be able to last an EMT....
Ford started making the 8N in 1947
I'm not going to scrap my 8 N.
I'm converting to electric
You cannot use a modern compact bushhog on a 8n ford. The rpms is to much. Found that out the hard way. Stick with the older bushhogs.
The Harry Ferguson TO 20, 30, 35 are a very good tractors too and in my opinion a better tractor than the ford 8n although their parts are a little more expensive than the ford and a littler harder to find.
So with the parts being harder to find I would have to say the Ferguson isn’t better lol.
@@darronlewark6504 it has a lot better features than the 8n or 9n. A nice tilting hood where you can get to most everything, an overhead valve engine and some other things.
I have an 8n for 4 years and it's been a great tractor. Brakes are not good even with new brake shoes I installed new rear axle seals and they still leak a little enough to get on the brake shoes. Someone needs to have an upgrade brrakes.
@@SawmillerSmith the upgrade is for the axle seals it switches to a double grease seal setup
Buy as many as you can. Fergusons are even cheaper.
most of them are wore out-take a lot of work to use them.be ready for repair daily
Any points and condenser, carburetor engine will require much more maintenance than a fuel injected, computer controlled engine BUT with the older technology you have less wires for rats to chew and no technician you have to hire. With just a little knowledge anybody can fix them.
That’s the way I see it. I can easily fix most things on the 8N.
Nice video.....
What’s wrong with an 860 or 861
More expensive/harder to come by.
@@DereksWorkshopAndProjects I have three of them. Not much more money and way ahead of the 8n
the simple answer is NO! unless ya like workin on it more than using it. please, buy anything else. i like cornbinders and masseys, acs are also good!
I have probably 100 hours on this tractor and maybe 2 working on it.
And it’s 75 years old. I love the thing.
53
Sill make them
?
we know Joe Biden will leave you behind..
You have to be short to drive and come on I had one they're great they pull good but they're just a pain in the ass to drive and I'm short I can't imagine someone 6 ft tall driving one of them things