Not a bad list but if you're reading spark plugs you should absolutely check compression while you have the plugs out. There is no better indicator of engine condition than compression.
Excellent tips! I would add that if someone is willing to accept a tractor that needs some work, and they feel the price is too high, to negotiate with the owner. Maybe that goes without saying, but very important to point out, i think so anyway. In addition, i would also say that if the owner isnt willing to allow a little test drive/operation of the tractor....i would pass it and look for another one. That could mean they're hiding some problems. Thanks for sharing, Chad! Those 2 Fords are really beautiful tractors! Makes me miss my Ferguson. Maybe ill be able to buy another one soon!
Great video. I bought a '53 Ferguson TO 30 last fall from original owner. Without much kowledge of your 7 tips, I got a very good one. Did pay good price, but lots less than a new one. Found nearly new 5' rotary cutter and 6' multi position rear blade. Thanks, Lee in NC & VA.
Another tip is to find out the parts availability. Since so many Ford N Series were sold, there is an abundance of used parts, plus several companies make reproduction parts, plus you can still buy parts from New Holland for the Ford tractors. Steiner Tractor Parts makes reproduction parts for other brands, as well as Fords. Some parts you can find from automotive parts stores like NAPA, etc. Buying an old classic tractor where there is a shortage of parts available for it, can be expensive and/or impossible to find parts for it.
Wonderful video, thank you. Perhaps you could do a comparison of the pulling power between the John Deere, the Workmaster and the Ford 8N. I would imagine the Workmaster can out pull the 8N, It would be interesting to see how the John Deere does with the 4 wheel drive.
Also look for modifications. Specially shoddy ones. I recently bought a 630 with the ford loader and a previous owner had cut the steering shaft at the top of the box to add power steering that would've made Dr Frankenstein cringe. The reservoir was off a modern pick up the pump required hacking up the fuel tank support and the steering arms were cut and lengthened by 3" or so and rotated back on 90°. Tie rods were gone and a drag link made up of the ends welded at a weird angle. All this was driven by a steering pump and a double acting cylinder across the front of the radiator welded to the loader frame. Essentially, making the loader configuration the only way to use the machine. All that is gone now, and with the help of several: Steiner, Honeyman, and FB marketplace, she's back to manual oem steering.
That's a great comment. Some people do think they're "improving" a tractor with their homemade modifications, when in fact they're making it less reliable or strong.
Steering components are often over looked. As you were driving your workmaster you can see the front wheels wobble because the tie rods have play were the connect somewhere. Also should look for grease fittings and make sure the have been greased somewhat recently or have grease.
Very informative video, this information will certainly help a few people. Then there is me who buys one for $300 and has to drag it home with the skid steer because it sat sleeping in a barn for over 20 years. It works wonderfully now.
@@PurpleCollarLife My level of "ability" comes from YT videos. It is a learning experience for me. Same guy has another 8n in another barn he said I can just have for free. According to him it needs the entire engine rebuilt. I am going to give that a go as well. I think it would be cool to get running and put a loader on it.
If you don’t need a loader or 4wd, those old tractors are great! If you do need those things, look for something newer that comes with it. The rim replacement is totally normal. My Ford 1700 is on its second set of rear rims. Still has original rear tires - needs new ones but the price is so high I’m avoiding it. My grandfather bought the tractor new in ‘82 to replace a 9N and upgrade to a loader. I’m still working the 1700 on the same property. That tractor won’t go anywhere, even if I upgrade to another one.
I agree! Having a tractor with 4x4 and the front end loader is nice. Having one of those AND one of these old classic tractors is a great combination. :)
@@steptool1 What Ford is it? An ‘80s compact, or a larger or older ag tractor? Nothing wrong with the loader on my 1700, other than being low lift capacity compared to modern machines. Lifts between 700-800lb to full height at the pivot pin, on a 25hp tractor that when ballasted with loaded tires and wheel weights comes in at around 4000lb. I wouldn’t be without 4wd with a loader on a compact tractor like mine. I’ve used a loader on a 2wd Ford 3910, which is a much heavier tractor. Worked fine, but you do have to be mindful of the rear end getting light when you lift a heavy load. Loss of rear traction = no drive power AND NO BRAKES on a 2wd tractor.
Funny I'm looking at buying a 1700 right now AND I want a 8N, Workmaster, or Jubilee lol. The 1700 I'm looking at has the 770 loader and comes with a shredder. Lady says the hydraulics are out and that it's probably the pump. She's asking 3k.
@@relevation0 Sounds like a good deal. The pump isn’t cheap, but a fully operable 4wd 1700 with loader would probably go for $6-9k with no other attachments. If you get $2k into repairs for a working machine, you’d still be ahead. Just check condition on everything else and make sure the engine runs fine first. You never know with an old clutch too. Especially if it’s been sitting for a while.
Thanks for the comment. That is another thing to look for. The switch from 6V to 12V on the 8N made a huge difference in how easily it starts. Before the switch, it didn’t start nearly as easily. But not all 6 volts are hard/slow to start. This 641 Workmaster is still 6V and it starts good even in the cold winter months.
I can get one that runs for free I have only seen pictures, should I get it and is it worth the hassle ? My son drove it around the yard where its at said it ran fine. Tires I'm not sure sense its 80 miles away I have only seen pictures but there holding air and he said the hydraulics did lift the rear blade.
Thanks for watching! Unfortunately, I don't have any experience or knowledge about the Ford Dexta 1962. Hopefully someone else watching will be able to chime in.
Thanks! I’m pretty sure that Dad built that using the original Carry-All frame that came with the tractor. I think it might even have a Dearborn tag on it somewhere.
I would love to have a late 8N in good condition but it wouldn't really suit my needs. I need a tractor with a two-stage clutch, a good front loader with parallel linkage, power steering, wide range of gears, 4X4, a good Bluetooth entertainment center, and a few other conveniences. 😁
Look in radiator to see if hard water left deposites ,look for oil seal leaks on all rotating parts, . I personally would not buy an older tractor that does not have power steering,two stage clutch (live pto), or high and low range transmition Yes it cost more but unless your only using it for limited use its way better for general use
While extra oil filters and belts are ok, beware of someone who offers boxes of used spare parts with the tractor. If the bolt heads on the tractor are missing paint or have been repainted recently after being taking apart? Start asking questions! Machines do break and things wear out over time, BUT............. If the current owner is up front they will tell you if anything has been repaired or replaced. In other cases there may be a major problem they have been trying to correct themselves, couldn't? and then attempt to sell the tractor and it's issues to you. When a problem arises, the below average mechanic/ D.I.Y person will attempt to throw parts at the tractor hoping to fix the issue. A good mechanic will diagnose the problem and fix it in one go with one part and throw out the broken one. Because of this, the super cheapo D.I.Y owner keeps all of the old parts, as common super cheapo sense dictates you keep something if it isn't broken? AND, if you no longer own the tractor, those parts are now junk they will need to get rid of? So rather than pay the garbage man they unload them on you, Lol. This is not always the case but just be careful so you don't get $crewed.
That's true. And these tractor tires will likely last 30-50 years if you're just in fields and forest. Your Tacoma tires probably won't make it that long. :)
Not a bad list but if you're reading spark plugs you should absolutely check compression while you have the plugs out. There is no better indicator of engine condition than compression.
Excellent point!
While not shopping, I appreciate seeing the old gals you have in the family. Would love one to putz around on the farm.
These old tractors definitely generate smiles. Regardless of the day I’ve had - a few minutes of tractor therapy makes a huge difference. :)
Excellent tips! I would add that if someone is willing to accept a tractor that needs some work, and they feel the price is too high, to negotiate with the owner. Maybe that goes without saying, but very important to point out, i think so anyway. In addition, i would also say that if the owner isnt willing to allow a little test drive/operation of the tractor....i would pass it and look for another one. That could mean they're hiding some problems. Thanks for sharing, Chad! Those 2 Fords are really beautiful tractors! Makes me miss my Ferguson. Maybe ill be able to buy another one soon!
Great video. I bought a '53 Ferguson TO 30 last fall from original owner. Without much kowledge of your 7 tips, I got a very good one. Did pay good price, but lots less than a new one. Found nearly new 5' rotary cutter and 6' multi position rear blade. Thanks, Lee in NC & VA.
Very nice! Congratulations on the Ferguson. You’re going to have a fun, and productive, summer with that tractor, brush hog, and blade!
Great video ! Inherited my grandpa’s 1951 Ford 8N about a year ago. The more I learn the more I enjoy
Very cool!
Great information highly appreciated 👍🏼
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. We appreciate it.
Another tip is to find out the parts availability. Since so many Ford N Series were sold, there is an abundance of used parts, plus several companies make reproduction parts, plus you can still buy parts from New Holland for the Ford tractors. Steiner Tractor Parts makes reproduction parts for other brands, as well as Fords. Some parts you can find from automotive parts stores like NAPA, etc. Buying an old classic tractor where there is a shortage of parts available for it, can be expensive and/or impossible to find parts for it.
Wonderful video, thank you. Perhaps you could do a comparison of the pulling power between the John Deere, the Workmaster and the Ford 8N. I would imagine the Workmaster can out pull the 8N, It would be interesting to see how the John Deere does with the 4 wheel drive.
Id bet the 8n would out pull the John Deere
Also look for modifications. Specially shoddy ones. I recently bought a 630 with the ford loader and a previous owner had cut the steering shaft at the top of the box to add power steering that would've made Dr Frankenstein cringe. The reservoir was off a modern pick up the pump required hacking up the fuel tank support and the steering arms were cut and lengthened by 3" or so and rotated back on 90°. Tie rods were gone and a drag link made up of the ends welded at a weird angle. All this was driven by a steering pump and a double acting cylinder across the front of the radiator welded to the loader frame. Essentially, making the loader configuration the only way to use the machine. All that is gone now, and with the help of several: Steiner, Honeyman, and FB marketplace, she's back to manual oem steering.
That's a great comment. Some people do think they're "improving" a tractor with their homemade modifications, when in fact they're making it less reliable or strong.
Steering components are often over looked. As you were driving your workmaster you can see the front wheels wobble because the tie rods have play were the connect somewhere.
Also should look for grease fittings and make sure the have been greased somewhat recently or have grease.
Great vid, thank you. I just bought a -60 Dexta, that was restored a few years back. Beautiful machine. Fortunately it ticks of on all your tips😃👌🏼
Very cool!
Great information, I have a 1947 2N.
Very cool!
Very informative video, this information will certainly help a few people. Then there is me who buys one for $300 and has to drag it home with the skid steer because it sat sleeping in a barn for over 20 years. It works wonderfully now.
I wish I had that type of ability - to bring these machines back to life. Great job!
@@PurpleCollarLife My level of "ability" comes from YT videos. It is a learning experience for me. Same guy has another 8n in another barn he said I can just have for free. According to him it needs the entire engine rebuilt. I am going to give that a go as well. I think it would be cool to get running and put a loader on it.
If you don’t need a loader or 4wd, those old tractors are great!
If you do need those things, look for something newer that comes with it. The rim replacement is totally normal. My Ford 1700 is on its second set of rear rims. Still has original rear tires - needs new ones but the price is so high I’m avoiding it. My grandfather bought the tractor new in ‘82 to replace a 9N and upgrade to a loader. I’m still working the 1700 on the same property. That tractor won’t go anywhere, even if I upgrade to another one.
I agree! Having a tractor with 4x4 and the front end loader is nice. Having one of those AND one of these old classic tractors is a great combination. :)
Is something wrong with the loader attachment on the ford's? Currently looking for one in my area. (Tractor +loader).; needs to lift
@@steptool1 What Ford is it? An ‘80s compact, or a larger or older ag tractor? Nothing wrong with the loader on my 1700, other than being low lift capacity compared to modern machines. Lifts between 700-800lb to full height at the pivot pin, on a 25hp tractor that when ballasted with loaded tires and wheel weights comes in at around 4000lb. I wouldn’t be without 4wd with a loader on a compact tractor like mine. I’ve used a loader on a 2wd Ford 3910, which is a much heavier tractor. Worked fine, but you do have to be mindful of the rear end getting light when you lift a heavy load. Loss of rear traction = no drive power AND NO BRAKES on a 2wd tractor.
Funny I'm looking at buying a 1700 right now AND I want a 8N, Workmaster, or Jubilee lol.
The 1700 I'm looking at has the 770 loader and comes with a shredder. Lady says the hydraulics are out and that it's probably the pump. She's asking 3k.
@@relevation0 Sounds like a good deal. The pump isn’t cheap, but a fully operable 4wd 1700 with loader would probably go for $6-9k with no other attachments. If you get $2k into repairs for a working machine, you’d still be ahead. Just check condition on everything else and make sure the engine runs fine first. You never know with an old clutch too. Especially if it’s been sitting for a while.
Hey friend there is a second place you have to check oil the air cleaner has a bowl you have to fill as well
I'm so glad you brought this up. We actually just made a video about that: ua-cam.com/video/woRJlrjqiOY/v-deo.html
Good evening Chad.
How ironic!
My last video was of my 1940 9N that has been on this farm since the mid 50’s.
Mine is painted in 8N colors.
Another thing to look at is has the tractor been converted from 6 volt to 12 volt?
Thanks for the comment. That is another thing to look for. The switch from 6V to 12V on the 8N made a huge difference in how easily it starts. Before the switch, it didn’t start nearly as easily. But not all 6 volts are hard/slow to start. This 641 Workmaster is still 6V and it starts good even in the cold winter months.
I can get one that runs for free I have only seen pictures, should I get it and is it worth the hassle ? My son drove it around the yard where its at said it ran fine. Tires I'm not sure sense its 80 miles away I have only seen pictures but there holding air and he said the hydraulics did lift the rear blade.
If it is free - how can you go wrong?! I'd scoop it right up.
@@PurpleCollarLife ya it is at a good price and I like to tinker on cleaning up things that others don't want to bother with.
What do you know about the Fordson Dexta 1962
Thanks for watching! Unfortunately, I don't have any experience or knowledge about the Ford Dexta 1962. Hopefully someone else watching will be able to chime in.
時代を超えて素晴らしいトラクターですね。
デクスターですが、３気筒のデーゼルエンジンで三本のインライン噴射ポンプを備えたトラクターです。パーキンス製のエンジン部品の一部を組み込んでいるそうですよ❤
US🇺🇸製フォードガソリントラクターも興味深いですね。
残念ながら日本ではガソリン価格が高く一部の経済力の高い農家さんしか使われませんでした。
great 8n video
Thank you!
Great video with good info.
Would love a video on the carry all
Thanks! I’m pretty sure that Dad built that using the original Carry-All frame that came with the tractor. I think it might even have a Dearborn tag on it somewhere.
@@PurpleCollarLifeI looked it up. I'm such a rookie, I didn't even know these were a thing! Maybe I need to watch a video on implements!
I would love to have a late 8N in good condition but it wouldn't really suit my needs.
I need a tractor with a two-stage clutch, a good front loader with parallel linkage, power steering, wide range of gears, 4X4, a good Bluetooth entertainment center, and a few other conveniences. 😁
It’s nice to have multiple machines. The combination of our 8N, the 641 Workmaster, and our John Deere 2210 handle a good deal of our needs.
Look in radiator to see if hard water left deposites ,look for oil seal leaks on all rotating parts, . I personally would not buy an older tractor that does not have power steering,two stage clutch (live pto), or high and low range transmition Yes it cost more but unless your only using it for limited use its way better for general use
Great point!
You didn't mention the importance of proper maintenance on muffler bearings and turn signal fluid!
I wanted to add a link for turn signal fluid from Amazon. But they’re sold out.
Does 8n have aux hydraulics ?
I am fortunate with mine that the rims never had calcium chloride in them.
The calcium does eat through the rims over time - especially 50-60 years! :)
While extra oil filters and belts are ok, beware of someone who offers boxes of used spare parts with the tractor. If the bolt heads on the tractor are missing paint or have been repainted recently after being taking apart? Start asking questions! Machines do break and things wear out over time, BUT.............
If the current owner is up front they will tell you if anything has been repaired or replaced. In other cases there may be a major problem they have been trying to correct themselves, couldn't? and then attempt to sell the tractor and it's issues to you.
When a problem arises, the below average mechanic/ D.I.Y person will attempt to throw parts at the tractor hoping to fix the issue. A good mechanic will diagnose the problem and fix it in one go with one part and throw out the broken one. Because of this, the super cheapo D.I.Y owner keeps all of the old parts, as common super cheapo sense dictates you keep something if it isn't broken?
AND, if you no longer own the tractor, those parts are now junk they will need to get rid of? So rather than pay the garbage man they unload them on you, Lol. This is not always the case but just be careful so you don't get $crewed.
These are all great tips! Thanks for adding to the discussion.
$1000 for tractor tires sounds like a bargain. I spend almost that much for tires for my Toyota Tacoma.
That's true. And these tractor tires will likely last 30-50 years if you're just in fields and forest. Your Tacoma tires probably won't make it that long. :)
Looks like your 8N has been converted to 12 volt.