Paint job is really beautiful, and I also like the idea to route the cables internally and take off the brake bosses on the seat stays. Honestly surprised to see the road rim brake fits on the bridge and reach the rims - neat! Not so sure about the choice of components: If it was me I had rebuilt the wheels with the XT hubs that came with the bike (and which are high quality and serviceable), and complemented it with a used 9- or 10-speed Ultegra group set - perfect match for that frame and budget friendly. The bar tape is wrapped too loose and will come off all too soon.
Outstanding job on the rebuild brother. The paint job that you did looks awesome! I really like how you did the red & black two tone style. That looks really cool. I hope you enjoy riding your new bike brother.
Hey, the previous frame that haven't yet restored has external holes from the top tube.. but in the after scene the frame is now internal cabling. what the the hell???
They don't show it on the top tube, but on the back side they flex of some stuff from the frame. I can imagine they flexed off the cable holders on the outside and just drilled some holes in the frame.
That looks great! How did you find wheels to fit the rear of the bike? Was that hole you installed the new rear brake into an industry standard at the time for 700c wheels?
What product did you use to remove old painting please? That product was magic, how long do you have to wait for brushing remove ? Great job, and I agree a double crank fits a urban/road bike type (kindda hybrid model makes sense to me).
Great job men! Only thing i would improve is the applying the handle bar tape with the oposite overlap as you did because it tends to gets ruinned faster like that.
Since the spokes of the rear wheels are radially knitted, there is a risk of damage due to poor drive transmission efficiency. The rear wheel should be tangent knitted because the shaft torque is applied. Since the front wheel does not have shaft torque, either radial knitting or tangent knitting is acceptable.
Footage at 7:28 tells us that the MTB frame at the beginning was not used in the project as the rear v - brake bosses were shown at the beginning but not during painting at the bookmark . There was no evidence of brake boss removal ! Also , the internal cable entry points in the top tube !
5:44 you ca see stains from angle grinder where the "brake holders" used to be on the top tube. He must have drilled the the holes for the internal cable then, but he does not shoes it, indeed.
Great conversion and excellent painting skills utilizing spray cans. Since you had the frame down to bare metal, did you consider smoothing out the welding points?
@@janeblogs324 purely aesthetics, if the welds were done properly it won't comprise the structural of functional integrity of the frame. Just Smoot out the welding overlaps with a file and Dremel.then sand and paint.
@@robertlangland3351 welds are only strong because they are convex and shaped like a sphere in tension. All the specialized with ground welds have cracked, they no longer sell any frames with undercut welds
@@janeblogs324 I completely understand that risk. Especially if the welds are not fused completely. I"ve cleaned up a lot of welds in my many years. It generally is ok to grind down aesthetically.. Generally we used to grind down to find the flaws or make sure we had no pockets or cracks to clean up. My experience has been that if the weld is done well, grinding for appearance did not significantly affect structural strengt; however if you ground the fillet out you weaken the weld. I can't speak to the quality of the welds on the Specialized bikes. I rode and raced Cannondales in the early nineties. My biggest challenge with their aluminum frame was bottom bracket fatigue from oxidation. All my Cannondale frames had the joint welds smoothed out.
@@robertlangland3351 all welds must be convex or they fatigue. Think of the weld as an expanding sphere when hot and it contracts when cooled. Its like hundreds of ropes going from the center to the edge, all pulling back to the center. If you bring away the top half or the top 2/3 like bike manufacturers were then all those ropes are gone. Its OK to grind welds on a table or something, but round tubes that see vibration and load will fatigue. Seriously just google broken bicycle frame welds. Standard welds crack the along the tube 5mm from the weld because the weld is stronger than the tube. Ground welds crack along the middle of the weld
You can do this to early Cannondales. Have a 1986 M300 frame, polished out, running first gen, medium reach Shimano 600 brakes, Shimano R500 rims. Run Shimano 105 derailleurs. Kept the fork so I can run 32mm tyres and mudguards. 😎
Nice, BUT, considering doing something similar i would keep it simpler and les risky (modding the frame is cringe to me). Keep the frame as is, drop in some nice cantilevers (XTR) and skinny 26" tires (maybe custom buil them. Mount old Dura Ace with big gears to compensate for the 26" wheels (second hand old 10sp Dura Ace is cheap). Call it a day.
And your privilege is glaring. Come on not everyone can afford for mtb Deore XT, or even 105, for Road. 10 year old Dura ace is still $1500. In some places you get what’s available second hand. It’s still beautiful, you have your opinion and I have mine. Neither is fact. This guy did a great job with what he could. RS- Magaling ang iyong ginawa
It depends on client requests at the end of the day . That is how I run my repair and projects business . Transposing frames raises questions if the mountain bike was a 26'er .
@@jinnij.caimanThis bike might not be a genuine s-works at the first place, cuz there was never such a factory build at all times. And I don't think anyone will buy a separate superbike frameset and put commuter grouper on it. The most probable situation could be that this super bike was stolen and resold as a commuter bike, and its second "owner" had no idea how much it was worth, then replaced its groupset with a real commuter one.
so road bike brakes will work on a 700c wheel even though the bike was originally a 26er? I've been wanting to do an m2 to gravel, but I didn't think the brakes would work!
If you put a road fork on a 26er intended to be used with a suspension fork, you'll end up with a really steep head tube angle! Even if you use a ~400mm ATC gravel or CX fork substituted for a 80mm travel fork, you'll end up with about a 75 degree head tube angle and of course, very little trail. With a shorter fork, it will be even more extreme. Yeah, you can ride it and get used to it, but it both is difficult to make it go straight down the road, but paradoxically, it is difficult to initiate a turn because there is so little wheel flop. If you had a fork with very little offset, I suppose it could help?
I did it. I picked up a no name 26” aluminum frame cheap on sale, and put various spare parts on it that I had laying around, and made 26” road bike with disc brakes for city commuting. I can’t say honestly that I approached it with any kind of clear plan, but I was pleased with the results though. It tracks perfectly stably and is quite comfortable, probably because of the longish chain stays. The handling is razor sharp, perfect for a city bike, you just have to think and it goes there. A little intimidating at first but quickly becomes natural. I recently replaced the 120 mm stem & mini bars with a 40 mm stem and drop bars, and it became indeed very stable, for its second life as a gravel touring bike. I’ve toyed with the idea of trying it with 700c wheels, it has the necessary clearance.
10:26 I’m assuming it’s a 36H hub laced with 12 spokes each side, for 24H lacing. Although it seems both drive side and non drive on both wheels are laced radially. That rear wheel I doubt is strong
@@necrossis that's what I'm talking about. This is pure crap. He wasted so much time to "resurect" this old bike and made that rather serious mistake. Wheels are most important parts.
Y por que no se ve como hace los agujeros en el cuadro para esconder los cables? En la mtb se ve que van fuera y despues en la de carretera se ve k van escondidos. Me hubiera gustado ver como metia los cables
at 3:03 and 3:10 are two different frames. check the top tube cable guides and the bottom bracket, and also the break mounts. ((sorry, my apologies for my mistakes and overlook, please read darrell1829's comment.))
it is the same frame. at 3.10, the frame is upside down (notice the Specialized is inverted). also at 3.10 you cannot see the bottom bracket shell or the top tube rear brake/shifter routing. that's because you wouldn't see those when bike is upside down
@@ohmingfeng9351 He has a point, even with a rubber mallet bringing the cups out on an angle will flare and distort the ends of the head tube. the proper tool for removal isn’t expensive. All said it is a nice build and lots of good work.
@@carltorres1006 The tool you want is a headset cup extractor. It has one end to hit and the other end is split into tongues that spring outwards. It can pass through the opposing cup and let’s you drive the cup out square
It wasn't shown how the cables were passed through the frame for the rear gears. The older frame had holders which these were removed for the newer version and some holes at an angle had to be drilled into the frame which aren't straight forward to do, but weren't shown in the video. At 16:36 old version and then 17:32 and 17:38 for the newer version.
@@SimonGrech I don’t know exactly because once he starts to strip the paint off the frame. The cable guides on the top tube aren’t there anymore. Once the paint is fully stripped off that is when you see the holes for the internal cable routing. Unless he did this off camera and forgot to document the process. Then that’s awesome he was able to do that but if he swapped frames then that’s deceiving. As you mentioned being able to drill a hole at angle isn’t an easy task. Also guiding the cable from one end to the other end without installing internal tubing… It’s doable but requires skill and custom fabrication.
The volume of a 26" MTB tire is much bigger than the road ones, so the total diameter of the wheel is not that far from a 700c. Also the chain stay is fairly long on MTBs, sometimes they can acomodate bigger wheel sizes, but it's possible to see in the video that the new back wheel is a little closer to the seat tube. Edit: Went look for some numbers, wheel size is rim+tire. So 700c wheels are (no surprise here) 700 mm or 27,56", so in a 26" bike (660 mm) you only need your frame to clear the extra diameter divided by 2, so 20 mm (0,79").
Probably one of the best frame paintign videos on here - well done !
Bro the result is stunning, don't listen to the people critics. I really enjoyed watching the video, hope that u will do others like this one
Paint job is really beautiful, and I also like the idea to route the cables internally and take off the brake bosses on the seat stays. Honestly surprised to see the road rim brake fits on the bridge and reach the rims - neat! Not so sure about the choice of components: If it was me I had rebuilt the wheels with the XT hubs that came with the bike (and which are high quality and serviceable), and complemented it with a used 9- or 10-speed Ultegra group set - perfect match for that frame and budget friendly. The bar tape is wrapped too loose and will come off all too soon.
Outstanding job on the rebuild brother. The paint job that you did looks awesome! I really like how you did the red & black two tone style. That looks really cool. I hope you enjoy riding your new bike brother.
This guy deserves more subs 😅😅
26" to 700 28 wheel. Nice restoration
Beautiful transformation on that bicycle 😊
Man, you're really good at that rattlecan spray-paint job!
What product was the one you used to get rid of the old paint?
Es removedor de pintura Hermano 🙋🏻
Paint remover👌
Congratulations, now it is absolutely amazing again 👏👏👏
where did you bought the s-works frame sticker?
I bought it into online shopping sir
에스웍에 투어니 변속기 생각도 못했다 ㅎㅎ 자전거 색깔은 죽여주네요
Amazing build!
Ang galing, may idea na ako sa gagawin ko sa mtb frame ko
Hey, the previous frame that haven't yet restored has external holes from the top tube.. but in the after scene the frame is now internal cabling. what the the hell???
They don't show it on the top tube, but on the back side they flex of some stuff from the frame.
I can imagine they flexed off the cable holders on the outside and just drilled some holes in the frame.
I do small holes for internal cable and i removed the external cable holders, but I didn’t included in the video
What did you use to make the paint pop off so easily?
Strip sol
That’s a sick spray can paint job. Looks professional. Great edit and hard work on the restoration paid off nicely
Thanks 👍 glad you enjoyed it
What paint remover did you use?
Great job men 👍. Craftmanship. This road bike deserves ultegra configuration.
Yeah but soon if i have an extra money then i will upgrade it, tnx
Excelente vídeo parabéns. Qual intervalo de demãos de tinta? E você sabe dizer a medida da rosca da gancheira do câmbio traseiro?
Grande Manolo grande, un verdadero placer poder acompañarte en estas aventuras, gracias
That looks great! How did you find wheels to fit the rear of the bike? Was that hole you installed the new rear brake into an industry standard at the time for 700c wheels?
Yes i convert it into Roadbike, former 26er to 700ctires
What product did you use to remove old painting please? That product was magic, how long do you have to wait for brushing remove ? Great job, and I agree a double crank fits a urban/road bike type (kindda hybrid model makes sense to me).
He used stripsol to remove the paint
@@yuki....Thanks. It's rather difficult I could find & buy that Stripsol in my country, or Amazon could send it free of taxes.
I like and am grateful to see you cleaning the bicycle v brake adapter, it looks easy and the results are smooth
To bude radosti pro malého cyklistu 👌, moc pěkná práce.
Skvělý počin.
Wah suhu ini mah..
Bukan kaleng2 lagi👍👍
Why did you change the hubs? Shimano XT is great.
He painted them 😁 didnt change
He changed the wheels because they are a different rim size
Superb. An amazing refurbishment. I like your taste in colours too. Well done!
I have a 2006 m5, you have inspired me.
I have some Shimano RSX components from 1997 , new old stock made in Japan . These perform very well for the money .
Great job men! Only thing i would improve is the applying the handle bar tape with the oposite overlap as you did because it tends to gets ruinned faster like that.
looks like new, great work!
Nice modification!
Nice job, well done!
Since the spokes of the rear wheels are radially knitted, there is a risk of damage due to poor drive transmission efficiency.
The rear wheel should be tangent knitted because the shaft torque is applied.
Since the front wheel does not have shaft torque, either radial knitting or tangent knitting is acceptable.
Holy shit you're right! Will be like riding an elastic band 😂
Where did you buy the stickers?
Footage at 7:28 tells us that the MTB frame at the beginning was not used in the project as the rear v - brake bosses were shown at the beginning but not during painting at the bookmark . There was no evidence of brake boss removal ! Also , the internal cable entry points in the top tube !
3:15
5:44 you ca see stains from angle grinder where the "brake holders" used to be on the top tube. He must have drilled the the holes for the internal cable then, but he does not shoes it, indeed.
Bro he Cut and drilled the holes🤦♂️
Really cool, congratulations on a wicked restoration!
How much money did you spend on this, i want to try it😊
Buen video. Pero ese no es el marco original
my guess: at least 500 euro in parts and stuff
Show de bola ⚽️ parabéns Deus te abençoe vc e toda sua família.
good job man
bro created a new definition for beauty
4:00 what product is it for remove paint like that?
paint stripper
That is Paint remover
Ano po brand and number ng red spray na gamit mo sir
Has the frame been baked after painting?
Very nice build and colors.
Just 2 things: Cable end caps and the front deraileur cable should be one piece.
Great conversion and excellent painting skills utilizing spray cans. Since you had the frame down to bare metal, did you consider smoothing out the welding points?
To weaken it? For what reason?
@@janeblogs324 purely aesthetics, if the welds were done properly it won't comprise the structural of functional integrity of the frame. Just Smoot out the welding overlaps with a file and Dremel.then sand and paint.
@@robertlangland3351 welds are only strong because they are convex and shaped like a sphere in tension. All the specialized with ground welds have cracked, they no longer sell any frames with undercut welds
@@janeblogs324 I completely understand that risk. Especially if the welds are not fused completely. I"ve cleaned up a lot of welds in my many years. It generally is ok to grind down aesthetically.. Generally we used to grind down to find the flaws or make sure we had no pockets or cracks to clean up. My experience has been that if the weld is done well, grinding for appearance did not significantly affect structural strengt; however if you ground the fillet out you weaken the weld. I can't speak to the quality of the welds on the Specialized bikes. I rode and raced Cannondales in the early nineties. My biggest challenge with their aluminum frame was bottom bracket fatigue from oxidation. All my Cannondale frames had the joint welds smoothed out.
@@robertlangland3351 all welds must be convex or they fatigue. Think of the weld as an expanding sphere when hot and it contracts when cooled. Its like hundreds of ropes going from the center to the edge, all pulling back to the center. If you bring away the top half or the top 2/3 like bike manufacturers were then all those ropes are gone.
Its OK to grind welds on a table or something, but round tubes that see vibration and load will fatigue. Seriously just google broken bicycle frame welds. Standard welds crack the along the tube 5mm from the weld because the weld is stronger than the tube. Ground welds crack along the middle of the weld
💡MAGNÍFICO💡
What year is this mtb?
What is the yellow gel for getting the paint off?
Yeah its a paint stripper... Gel based so it can sit on a surface without dripping off everywhere
you are an artist! chapeux
Hello. What are the downsides to doing this? Are older MTBs just much heavier and less ergodynamic? Thank you
The geometry of an mtb is also alot more snappy.
You can do this to early Cannondales. Have a 1986 M300 frame, polished out, running first gen, medium reach Shimano 600 brakes, Shimano R500 rims. Run Shimano 105 derailleurs. Kept the fork so I can run 32mm tyres and mudguards. 😎
Yeah, really early MTBs would work much better for this!
Nice, BUT, considering doing something similar i would keep it simpler and les risky (modding the frame is cringe to me). Keep the frame as is, drop in some nice cantilevers (XTR) and skinny 26" tires (maybe custom buil them. Mount old Dura Ace with big gears to compensate for the 26" wheels (second hand old 10sp Dura Ace is cheap). Call it a day.
It was beautiful… and then you went and put tourney on it.
Some people can't afford the better stuff... So don't judge
@@MyMegaJOKER2it's definitely not a real s works
And your privilege is glaring. Come on not everyone can afford for mtb Deore XT, or even 105, for Road. 10 year old Dura ace is still $1500. In some places you get what’s available second hand. It’s still beautiful, you have your opinion and I have mine. Neither is fact. This guy did a great job with what he could. RS- Magaling ang iyong ginawa
It depends on client requests at the end of the day . That is how I run my repair and projects business . Transposing frames raises questions if the mountain bike was a 26'er .
@@jinnij.caimanThis bike might not be a genuine s-works at the first place, cuz there was never such a factory build at all times. And I don't think anyone will buy a separate superbike frameset and put commuter grouper on it. The most probable situation could be that this super bike was stolen and resold as a commuter bike, and its second "owner" had no idea how much it was worth, then replaced its groupset with a real commuter one.
That is gorgeous!!
Roosters, dogs, bikes 😊
It's Beatiful But the Amount of Hardwork and the Money can get you a better Roadbike
эти ваши видео, как медитация. Очень удобно под них засыпать =)
How much money do you spend for all of parts?
It always turns out great with roosters in the background...
Good job!!!😊👍
So nice ! Bravo for this ! Just one question, the fork is a 1" or a 1"1/8 ?
fork is 1"1/8
so road bike brakes will work on a 700c wheel even though the bike was originally a 26er? I've been wanting to do an m2 to gravel, but I didn't think the brakes would work!
what did you apply at the end of the coloring process?
Paint clear coat
Thanks for that question 🤝🤝
@@RAI_Dis that also in a spray paint Container ❓❓
Yes
So satisfying to watch😊
Te quedó brutal compa
If you put a road fork on a 26er intended to be used with a suspension fork, you'll end up with a really steep head tube angle! Even if you use a ~400mm ATC gravel or CX fork substituted for a 80mm travel fork, you'll end up with about a 75 degree head tube angle and of course, very little trail. With a shorter fork, it will be even more extreme. Yeah, you can ride it and get used to it, but it both is difficult to make it go straight down the road, but paradoxically, it is difficult to initiate a turn because there is so little wheel flop. If you had a fork with very little offset, I suppose it could help?
I did it. I picked up a no name 26” aluminum frame cheap on sale, and put various spare parts on it that I had laying around, and made 26” road bike with disc brakes for city commuting.
I can’t say honestly that I approached it with any kind of clear plan, but I was pleased with the results though. It tracks perfectly stably and is quite comfortable, probably because of the longish chain stays.
The handling is razor sharp, perfect for a city bike, you just have to think and it goes there. A little intimidating at first but quickly becomes natural. I recently replaced the 120 mm stem & mini bars with a 40 mm stem and drop bars, and it became indeed very stable, for its second life as a gravel touring bike.
I’ve toyed with the idea of trying it with 700c wheels, it has the necessary clearance.
17:20 does anyone know what the heck is going on with missing spokes and the improperly installed ones?
10:26 I’m assuming it’s a 36H hub laced with 12 spokes each side, for 24H lacing. Although it seems both drive side and non drive on both wheels are laced radially. That rear wheel I doubt is strong
@@necrossis that's what I'm talking about. This is pure crap. He wasted so much time to "resurect" this old bike and made that rather serious mistake. Wheels are most important parts.
The wheel building practises shown are not recommended .
Radial lacing on the drive wheel and 1x lacing on the front 😂
Amazing transformation!
You did well, bro! 🎉
This is literally therapeutic
Thanks for the video this is actually what im founding
Y por que no se ve como hace los agujeros en el cuadro para esconder los cables? En la mtb se ve que van fuera y despues en la de carretera se ve k van escondidos. Me hubiera gustado ver como metia los cables
Amazing work. Well done.
at 3:03 and 3:10 are two different frames. check the top tube cable guides and the bottom bracket, and also the break mounts. ((sorry, my apologies for my mistakes and overlook, please read darrell1829's comment.))
you're right....
it is the same frame. at 3.10, the frame is upside down (notice the Specialized is inverted). also at 3.10 you cannot see the bottom bracket shell or the top tube rear brake/shifter routing. that's because you wouldn't see those when bike is upside down
You are right@@darrell1829 My apology to all.
Una pregunta la tijera delantera es rodado 700 ?
Please don’t EVER remove a headset like that… you will bend the head tube or widen it and future headsets won’t fit
Its a rubber mallet
@@ohmingfeng9351 He has a point, even with a rubber mallet bringing the cups out on an angle will flare and distort the ends of the head tube. the proper tool for removal isn’t expensive. All said it is a nice build and lots of good work.
When you little to no access or funds for tools, it'll work.
3rd world problems...
I must have used a rod and then that rubber mallet
@@carltorres1006 The tool you want is a headset cup extractor. It has one end to hit and the other end is split into tongues that spring outwards. It can pass through the opposing cup and let’s you drive the cup out square
It looks like a random frame with S-works stickers not an original S-works.
By the Sun fade on them i doubt
Wrong. Google 90s specialized -Sworks m5 hardtail.
its polygon unitoga
Sensah ignite ipapares mo sa 7 speed cogs,?? Ok naman ba shifting.,?
sir saan yung shop nyo ano address balak ko san pa repaint ung trinx ko
What was the solution to remove paint?
Well done. cable routing changed, brake holes disappeared. The
bike became a different one ...
Well done, a unique bike no doubt, albeit there's nothing "S-Works" about it 😅
Wrong. Just Google 90s Specialized S-Works M5 hardtail. I have a similar model. Yes it’s real.
It wasn't shown how the cables were passed through the frame for the rear gears. The older frame had holders which these were removed for the newer version and some holes at an angle had to be drilled into the frame which aren't straight forward to do, but weren't shown in the video. At 16:36 old version and then 17:32 and 17:38 for the newer version.
Weren’t shown because it’s not the same frame as the before and after. One has external routing while the other has internal routing.
@@JDP8888 then what conversion was it? Fork, handle, seat, wheels are all different... Add the frame too and it's a totally different bike
@@SimonGrech I don’t know exactly because once he starts to strip the paint off the frame. The cable guides on the top tube aren’t there anymore. Once the paint is fully stripped off that is when you see the holes for the internal cable routing. Unless he did this off camera and forgot to document the process. Then that’s awesome he was able to do that but if he swapped frames then that’s deceiving.
As you mentioned being able to drill a hole at angle isn’t an easy task. Also guiding the cable from one end to the other end without installing internal tubing…
It’s doable but requires skill and custom fabrication.
2 different frames. The first one has cables externally, and the other frame has internal cable routing
5:43 Switch of frame?
@rejuan99 it's a different frame. The old one has external cables rputing. "Finished one has internal cable routing.
@@jmoyet that's what I said.
@@jmoyethe drilled those holes himself, he converted it
@@rejuan995:45 if u stop the video , u can see new drilled holes and also the marks on top of the bar where he cut the old cable holders off
Brilliant work....
Wow that was amazing 😮
paint job is tooop notch, you can upgrade components later if you feel like to
You are the beast 🎉
Good job sir
Good job
Very impressive
Mtb wheels are 26' and road bike convert fit on 29ers/700 ?
it was 26" wheels and in the end it was 700c.....how ?
Magic🤣🤣🤣
The volume of a 26" MTB tire is much bigger than the road ones, so the total diameter of the wheel is not that far from a 700c. Also the chain stay is fairly long on MTBs, sometimes they can acomodate bigger wheel sizes, but it's possible to see in the video that the new back wheel is a little closer to the seat tube.
Edit: Went look for some numbers, wheel size is rim+tire. So 700c wheels are (no surprise here) 700 mm or 27,56", so in a 26" bike (660 mm) you only need your frame to clear the extra diameter divided by 2, so 20 mm (0,79").
The 700c rim can fitted into 26er frame
I checked today@@rgsbikelife984
so cool. like a tarmac SL7 color😁
Glad you like it!
For real... Why using such a good frame with that cheap groupset? Better 9 or 10 Speed sensah or ltwoo would do the job.
Perpact~! But... tourney...??
beautiful
Muito bom!!! Parabéns!!! 👏👏👏