Thanks so much for sharing the parts list, and design. I am adding X axis control to my RF-30 and your video is now my reference. I agree that keeping the manual handle is important. Hindsight is always 20/20 so I will just say thank you and keep up the great video's.
Instead of shortening the handwheel dog part and fitting the toothed belt wheel behind it, you could have just bored the tooth belt wheel out to fit over the dog part. Leaves the original part unaltered, and improves the bearing length. A simple pin would replace the four bolts.
I like your thinking here. I've been thinking about building a toothed belt driven power table feed for a while. This design is really tidy and straight forward👍
A few years ago I bought a Sieg SX2P as my first milling machine. I soon got fed up rotating the X-axis wheel, so decided to motorise it. A stepper motor seemed the cheapest option, so I fitted one directly on the lead screw. It took an aluminium plate, two stand-offs, and s connector. I had an old PC and decided to use that for control using LinuxCNC, with a generic Chinese TB600 microstep driver. Rather than motor drive I know had CNC X-axis, so I used that, and manual Y, to machine the bits to convert the Y axis to CNC. That made the next step - the Zed axis (written that way to assist our American colleagues in correct pronunciation). So, now I had a 3-axis CNC mill. Next I bought a Chinese 4th axis, and was soon cutting gears. That project got rather out of control - all I'd wanted was motor drive. Now I'm looking for a Bridgenorth . . .
I'm new to the channel but love it so far - instant subscribe. Nice work so far on the mill drive - I need to do something for my mill as well, so I am going searching for part 2 :) (I'm also from the UK - Oxfordshire). Cheers! Craig
Nice job, would it not have been better to fit the aluminium puley over the top of the original one by boring it out, that way you could put everything back to original if you decided to sell the mill. Subscribed for more. Next job, make a spring loaded tap starter for mill/lathe, very easy and helps get threads straight. 😉 Its also dangerous wearing gloves when working on lathe and mill.
Yea good point. However at the time I wanted to make sure the pulley was concentric to the lead screw so bought a pulley with a bore to match the lead screw. Now, having spent more time on the lathe and learned a few things I would do it as you said. Thanks for your comment and thanks for subscribing!
@@rok1475 Your right but selling a mill with it fitted you may gain $100 but you also have to buy/make another one for the mill your replacing it with and that will cost you more, much more if you make it yourself taking into consideration your time. On older mills people tend to pay more if its 100% original
Derek Greenhalgh I would argue that making a new power feed for a different (presumably bigger) mill is easier than trying to retrofit one custom-fitted to another mill. And the new mill may come with power feed already... You notion that making a new power feed will cost much more is a bit flawed. The value of time spent by hobby machinist on making things is not the same as of time spent by machinist making a living. A hobby by definition is an activity for consuming your free time ( and money...). Your comment about “all original parts” only applies to antique machines sought by collectors. They would surely complain about an old lathe that has been equipped with QCTP, DRO and electric motor on VFD. They would prefer the lantern tool holder, worn out dials and the original steam engine instead. I get that but but most hobby machinists would be happy with modern additions and upgrades. Power feed is in the same category.
14:00 I'm new to machining and trying to learn what I can from Reddit and YT. I had a hard time hearing what you said here.. You said you didnt have a what? So you were going to use a 10mm end mill. What was the proper tool you shouldve used here that you said you didnt have? Is this a special tool for doing a counter-sunk hole for that thumb screw?
Having trouble finding gears you used cause I'm in the US plus have question about the stepper motor driver, Is it just plug and play or will I have to program something?? Totally new to these kinds of motors.
@@mrmechanical3423 thank you, going to try and do what you did if we can find the correct pulley for the motor, closest we found was a 12mm bore but shaft is 14mm, maybe we can drill it out and still have enough material left to grip stepper motor shaft! Thanks again!
Looking at photos it may be possible. Perhaps not using the same dimensions but a similar design. You would have to check measurements of your machine against the drawings
low rpm high torque.. if you do the same with a DC motor you need gears, most likely worm geared which means you need a clutch to be able to disengage the drive from the table feed screw to be able to use it manually.. this stepper can be left 'engaged' the whole time.
Hi, With the tag that has a witness mark on the mill it appears that there was a corresponding marked dial. Did you sacrifice that for the drive or was there no dial to begin with? Thanks for sharing.
Hi Gordon, there was a dial which I sacrificed. However the handle at the other end of the table still has the dial for use during hand operation. Also, I have a dro fitted so rely on that now rather than using the dial. Thanks for commenting/watching
@@mrmechanical3423 Hi Again. I need to contemplate modifying your design to include the dial. I do not have a DRO and my table is 48" long so it is not always convenient to look at the other end.
@@rubarb0406 the hub that I modified in the videos had a ring on it with the dial increment. This section of the hub was machined off to make space for the pulley. It could be possible to open out the inside diameter of the pulley and slide it over the other end of the hub. You could create a viewing window in the top face of the box section for looking at the dial / witness mark. You would however need a wider box section as the pulley would be further away from the mounting point / end of the table.
Ring, gloves, wobbly parts... oh man, what a thrilling video! 🙈Glad everything turned out ok 😃👍
Thanks so much for sharing the parts list, and design. I am adding X axis control to my RF-30 and your video is now my reference. I agree that keeping the manual handle is important. Hindsight is always 20/20 so I will just say thank you and keep up the great video's.
Instead of shortening the handwheel dog part and fitting the toothed belt wheel behind it, you could have just bored the tooth belt wheel out to fit over the dog part. Leaves the original part unaltered, and improves the bearing length. A simple pin would replace the four bolts.
I like your thinking here. I've been thinking about building a toothed belt driven power table feed for a while. This design is really tidy and straight forward👍
Thanks, glad you like it
Excellent work, thank you for sharing this project!
Good job. Nice project.👌
A few years ago I bought a Sieg SX2P as my first milling machine. I soon got fed up rotating the X-axis wheel, so decided to motorise it. A stepper motor seemed the cheapest option, so I fitted one directly on the lead screw. It took an aluminium plate, two stand-offs, and s connector. I had an old PC and decided to use that for control using LinuxCNC, with a generic Chinese TB600 microstep driver.
Rather than motor drive I know had CNC X-axis, so I used that, and manual Y, to machine the bits to convert the Y axis to CNC. That made the next step - the Zed axis (written that way to assist our American colleagues in correct pronunciation). So, now I had a 3-axis CNC mill. Next I bought a Chinese 4th axis, and was soon cutting gears.
That project got rather out of control - all I'd wanted was motor drive.
Now I'm looking for a Bridgenorth . . .
Nice design!
thanks for your comment. glad you like it.
I'm new to the channel but love it so far - instant subscribe. Nice work so far on the mill drive - I need to do something for my mill as well, so I am going searching for part 2 :) (I'm also from the UK - Oxfordshire). Cheers! Craig
I’m wondering how you will keep the proper tension on the belt or is that even a concern?
Mate, don't use gloves when turning, you can easily lose a finger!! That's if you haven't done so already. Great video, cheers Mike.
Like 434, very good !👏👏
Nice job, would it not have been better to fit the aluminium puley over the top of the original one by boring it out, that way you could put everything back to original if you decided to sell the mill. Subscribed for more. Next job, make a spring loaded tap starter for mill/lathe, very easy and helps get threads straight. 😉 Its also dangerous wearing gloves when working on lathe and mill.
Yea good point. However at the time I wanted to make sure the pulley was concentric to the lead screw so bought a pulley with a bore to match the lead screw. Now, having spent more time on the lathe and learned a few things I would do it as you said. Thanks for your comment and thanks for subscribing!
Power feed increases the value of the mill. Why would you remove it before selling?
@@rok1475 Your right but selling a mill with it fitted you may gain $100 but you also have to buy/make another one for the mill your replacing it with and that will cost you more, much more if you make it yourself taking into consideration your time. On older mills people tend to pay more if its 100% original
Derek Greenhalgh I would argue that making a new power feed for a different (presumably bigger) mill is easier than trying to retrofit one custom-fitted to another mill.
And the new mill may come with power feed already...
You notion that making a new power feed will cost much more is a bit flawed. The value of time spent by hobby machinist on making things is not the same as of time spent by machinist making a living.
A hobby by definition is an activity for consuming your free time ( and money...).
Your comment about “all original parts” only applies to antique machines sought by collectors.
They would surely complain about an old lathe that has been equipped with QCTP, DRO and electric motor on VFD. They would prefer the lantern tool holder, worn out dials and the original steam engine instead.
I get that but but most hobby machinists would be happy with modern additions and upgrades.
Power feed is in the same category.
@@rok1475 each to his own opinion
Very nice. I like it. Just one question. What about the Oiler that got covered by the bracket?
Thanks for your comment mike! good point! I will have to add a hole to the top of the alloy box section for access.
14:00 I'm new to machining and trying to learn what I can from Reddit and YT. I had a hard time hearing what you said here.. You said you didnt have a what? So you were going to use a 10mm end mill. What was the proper tool you shouldve used here that you said you didnt have? Is this a special tool for doing a counter-sunk hole for that thumb screw?
Hi Christopher,
It was 'counter bore' bit.
They help to centralise the counter bore.
Having trouble finding gears you used cause I'm in the US plus have question about the stepper motor driver, Is it just plug and play or will I have to program something?? Totally new to these kinds of motors.
The stepper motor is just plug and play. No programming required.
@@mrmechanical3423 thank you, going to try and do what you did if we can find the correct pulley for the motor, closest we found was a 12mm bore but shaft is 14mm, maybe we can drill it out and still have enough material left to grip stepper motor shaft! Thanks again!
Hello Mr Mechanic. You smart man :-) Can I do this on my SiegSX2LF Mill machine? Also, looks like you have a 3 axis DRO there.....
Looking at photos it may be possible. Perhaps not using the same dimensions but a similar design. You would have to check measurements of your machine against the drawings
Brilliant!
Why do you use stepper motor ,any technical reason please
low rpm high torque.. if you do the same with a DC motor you need gears, most likely worm geared which means you need a clutch to be able to disengage the drive from the table feed screw to be able to use it manually.. this stepper can be left 'engaged' the whole time.
Your site is down where to download files
Hi, With the tag that has a witness mark on the mill it appears that there was a corresponding marked dial. Did you sacrifice that for the drive or was there no dial to begin with? Thanks for sharing.
Hi Gordon, there was a dial which I sacrificed. However the handle at the other end of the table still has the dial for use during hand operation. Also, I have a dro fitted so rely on that now rather than using the dial. Thanks for commenting/watching
@@mrmechanical3423 Hi Again. I need to contemplate modifying your design to include the dial. I do not have a DRO and my table is 48" long so it is not always convenient to look at the other end.
@@rubarb0406 the hub that I modified in the videos had a ring on it with the dial increment. This section of the hub was machined off to make space for the pulley. It could be possible to open out the inside diameter of the pulley and slide it over the other end of the hub. You could create a viewing window in the top face of the box section for looking at the dial / witness mark. You would however need a wider box section as the pulley would be further away from the mounting point / end of the table.
Take those gloves off near rotary machinery, aaaargh! Rather lose half a finger than an arm!