Timestamps 0:00 - Intro 2:19 - Making The Drive Pin For The Leadscrew 2:56 - Machining the End and Cover Plate 5:50 - How To Mount The Motor And Gearbox 7:33 - Making The Clutch Mechanism 13:33 - Making The Selector Forks For The Clutch Sleeve 19:27 - First Test 20:08 - Making A Cover and Adding Limit Switches 23:26 - Final Test
yeah.But i think a batterie powerd bandsaw would be a good fit.He can make a mounting plate to put the band saw in and the mounting plate in to the vise .Or he gets him self 90Degree tool holder and puts a saw blade in and uses the mill.
@bosanaz2010 tbh, I think he does it more to troll people as much as anything. He's happy doing things the way he does :) Buts its the one constant of Artisan Makes content: it'll have a hacksaw cutting a stupidly large piece of metal, and there'll be comments about getting a bandsaw!
@@hk74654 problem with anglegrinder is cutting tool steels will harden them sometimes....i watch him for a long time.I know the Hacksaw is his signiture...but as i toolmaker i know how much pain it takes to cut big stuff with it
I'm an engineer who has worked almost 10 years with gearboxes for trucks with focus on gear manouvering I think you made a really nice design. Good work!
Nice project For the limit switches it would be a good idea to put a diode in parallel on each, so that the motor can only run into the opposite direction when the switch is opened. If you don't do this you have to move the table back by hand each time you run into them (which actually isn't a big problem in your design, but would be if you didn't have a clutch).
I thought about that, but I'm wondering if the limit switches are only in series with the selector. So the limit would only be on the way he's moving leaving the other side free. But I think maybe this diode idea of yours is better
@@MOOBBreezy hmmm, that also makes sense, haven't even thought about that. When I designed something like that I connected both wires for each direction pretty shortly after the direction switch.
Very nice build. I would rather not have the knob protruding above the plane of the table. Maybe you never have problems with that but I have sometimes had long objects directly on the table which would then be in conflict with the knob.
Dude, I watch a ton of machining channels, and you demonstrate some wild techniques that I've never seen on any other channel. 14:30 perfect example. It's really really cool
I am a hobby woodworker, doing 95% of my work using hand tools. Watching you hacksaw is driving me crazy. No, I don't recommend you buy a bandsaw or power hacksaw (at least, not if you don't have the spare cash). But I STRONGLY recommend firming up the bench, so the work piece is good and stable. This makes a tremendous difference to sawing (and filing, come to that). Some diagonal bracing, or (even stronger) fitting a plywood panel to one or more of the faces is cheap and easy to do.
This is cool. An upgrade you could do is have a rail under the table so you can set custom points for the limit switches, and have it auto-reverse when a limit is hit.
Your a clever bugger. Its great just watching you do these little projects, I almost get as much satisfaction out of the end result as much as you. Keep up the great work mate.
Get yourself 4 cheap V-blocks for the bottom die on your bending jig. They are very hard, and precise; and have 2 bevel widths. Make a simple holder for them that fixes to your flypress table, and it will be easy to set up. Make sure your V-blocks are 'matched' ( mine were .5mm difference in height for my mini hydraulic press, but they work). Your work is excellent and well presented!
Yes!......I did enjoy watching this build, I enjoy all of your vidz. I think they are brilliant. Do you think that you will ever build your own Metal cutting bandsaw 🤔
A small tip for sourcing some items for very low prices: go to a local metal scrapyard to find stuff. I acquired 2 of those geared motors for something like $10 and they came out of junked garage door openers. They both work and one even has a clutch to disengage the gears. And yes, they both work, I tested them after I got home. 😀
The thing that continues to blowy mind is in the blacksmith frame of mind... Need a tool - make a tool. And you always have the foresight to do that and share it with the world! Thank you for what, and more importantly, how you do it. Stay awesome my UA-cam friend!
Thank you for the double entendres, I was really enjoying the play on words. I really admire the good stuff you can turn out with what are basically hobby machines, it inspires me to want to have a go.
Dear Antone, what an excellent project to add facility to your hobby mill. I always enjoy your presentations and take new thoughts away most times. I have one criticism about today’s project in the placement of the engagement handle for the X-axis power feed. You placed it on top, above the level of the table. This will get in the way of workpieces trying to be loaded on your bed. Can I suggest that you move it to the front or left hand end of the carriage. Cheers.
Great job!!! I love how all your small builds build off each other. You make one thing just to make another to make something else. It's always an amazing adventure watching you work. Until next week. Good day!
If you wire the limit switches in series with the direction switch you can have them lockout only one direction. Then if you hit a limit you can still back the motor off in the opposite direction instead of rendering it entirely powered down.
I love using those motors and gearboxes. Any autoparts store has windshield Wiper motors (what these are) and they're super inexpensive. I've used them on a ton of different projects
I appreciate the electrical elegance of the 3 way switch; reverse-off-forward. But if the speed is non zero, it would be really easy to overshoot the centre (off) position and instead of stopping the feed, just change the direction, which might be catastrophic. In this instance, I would prefer 2 switches. One a simple (and bigger?) on-off, and the other a forward/reverse.
Its seems to be a 2 switch design one for direction and a seperate knob for controlling speed. A 3 way switch with good detents is gonna be hard to miss the off position and skip to the other direction and if youre really scared of that happening just bottom the feedrate knob to zero first.
This is a good solution. I did the same one year ago at an old lathe for the leadscrew and it works in the same way. But your arrangment looks much better than mine, so I will improve my design.
Nice work! I made a z axis lift for my mill using similar motor. Diode across switch leads allows it to stop and reverse without manually moving the feed.
I have a drawing for a power feed project for my mill. I have a couple of problems with Power feeds that cut off use of the hand wheel on one side. I have a PM727 mill and it sits on a stand with partially recessed tables hung of the walls on both sides of the mill. This lets me catch the bulk of the chips before they hit the floor and lets me still get mostly on both sides to see my work. The arrangement means that the DRO screen and y axis handle is on the opposite side of your mill. The end result is that 80 percent of my controls need to be run from the left hand side of the machine so I really want to preserve the hand wheel on the power feed side. So I’ll absolutely be using your spline technique for this project.
Now I'm sure 90% of hobby Machines that watch you channel, and others, have similar setups to yours. It's nice to see someone on YT truly show the world what can be done with these setups. Closing. I enjoy watching your builds. But, God dammit, it's time for a Band-Saw so you can cut your stock. Even if it's just one of those hand held units. None the Less. Thanks for the Vid.
If that knob is a potentiometer, you could add a "rapid" switch by having a SPDT momentary switch apply a fixed resistance (which corresponds to your rapid speed) to the appropriate pin on the board while disconnecting the pot when pressed. Release the button and the pot is connected back and you continue at your dialed in feed rate. It would be a simple mod, but would add a lot of useability for the operator (i.e. you)
Many decades ago I made dc servo drives. We could get very good precision using quadrature pulse tachs, 240 to 600 per, an up/down counter, a d/a , feeding into a an op amp with leading phase shift- pole around 3 radians per second, that in turn fed current to the armature. It worked rather well. Reference could be a pulse train or follow a tachometer on another shaft.
I would also suggest adjustable hard stops to protect the limit switches when operating the feed manually. Just a bolt with a jamb nut next to the switch would work.
If you really want to be fancy, maybe you can hook your DRO up to a micro-controller that controls the power feed? Perfect velocity settings, automatic zeroing/repetition, etc.
Great job overall .l. Some ideas I have about this is an adaption of the synchronizer rings in manual transmissions for coupling under loads, a way for the limits to be contained in the box, be it by a driven fine threaded jack shaft that drives a stop like in my overhead door, or a electronic counter. I would also like a readout in inches/millimeters per min for ease in repeating a known operation.
I second the diode comment. I've made machines for opening and closing French garage doors, casement windows, and other kinds of machines like that. You'll need to use diodes that can handle the current though Other wise they may pop, which may be great on certain holidays, but only if the pop is good enough.
exceptional build. love it...i did a down and drity version of this on one of my round column mills...your fit and finish is spot on.... great design...
Well done. You could have placed your safety switches in serial with the 3 ways switch to select left/stop/right.. There is also PWM tension controler with a 3 digit display : it gives you a kind of speed reference. It is especially useful when you alternate between full speed and slow speed for milling (for example when doing several passes all in climbing). Your clutch design with the selector is cool. To avoid doing internal keeways, you can buy a 17mm ratchet wrench bit (1/2") to make the clutch cylinder. It is cheap. Congratulations Damien
At first when seeing the motor, i was already thinking on how to control it with a PWM controller and a DPDT switch. The electronics are super simple and works great, they'll last a long time. Remember to give the spline and brass bushing some oil, so it runs smooth. Can you bottom out the microswitch when the motor set at 100%? I'm thinking that if it takes some time to stop the motor and wormgears rotation, you could damage the microswitch or the gearbox.
It seems to stop quite quickly when it hits the limits. And there is still about 20mm of travel left on the table before it is risking of bottoming out. Cheers
Great job great video if i may give you 2 words of advice i 1 the handle in my opinion should not have been on top but in the front allowing you to have a clear bed top for long pieces and 2 Aliexpress is your friend for anything motor control. I really enjoy your videos they push me to get up off my chair and make things in my shop thank you
I've enjoyed watching your skills grow since you started this chanel. You obviously take the time to do your homework and plan everything out in advance. --And that effort really shows in how well and cleanly the assemblies go together in the end. You're an inspiration to me, especially in how fast and accurate you've gotten over the last few years. I'm constantly amazed at the sheer volume of work you turn out, with a new high quality video every single week. LOL, as much as I like seeing a new video every single week, it's okay to take some time off for a well earned vacation!!
Thankyou that is very kind. All I can say is very careful planning and filming allows me to complete the videos on time. Never is ever shot and presented in the correct order and I already have 2024 projects ready to go. Cheers
Maybe a bicycle hub engine in direct drive could also be used. Or build your own three phase motor with laminated silicon steel and some permanent magnets. Simple hub motor drives are cheap and then high speed travels are possible. Also consider "overclocking" the winder motor in your design using a 12V motor. A friction clutch by engaging the motor axially could eliminate some complicated parts.
Awesome video as always. Big fan of saving money on something that I can build myself. I do foresee an issue with the engagement knob though, it sticks up above the table, if you ever machine something long that hangs over, it may be in the way, just a thought. 👍
I spotted that as well and was going to say something, but I figured that it is so obvious that he will have taken it into consideration. At the very least he can unscrew the knob and make a flat sliding knob in its place.
@@artisanmakes Very true, I like the approach. I'll say I was expecting some sort of lever, but I can appreciate the simplicity of the knob with fewer moving parts. And the internal spline broach, genius!
Nice job mate I just spent every weekend for about the past two months fitting a power feed to the z axis on my mill and I bought the dedicated and expensive align unit for the job the problem was the mill was never designed to have a Z axis power feed so much of the kit couldn't be used save for the unit itself but it's not about the destination with what we do it's always just about the journey huh. Always enjoy your vids you've given me a few ideas for some things to build a screw press is definitely on the list though space is not my friend look forward to seeing your next project
A little project, nicely done. As I see it, you won't be putting a handle on it again, since you do have the speed dial on there, so no need. The toggle to left-off-right is close and should always be reachable. Thanks for sharing another nice one, see you next week! 👍💪✌
Get the spline shuttle lever (and screw heads) below the bed height. It's amazing how many times you'll find yourself overhanging the work piece or trying to.
Excellent job Lot of satisfaction from making things and not buying it I had the lock pins on the draws on my 4wd sliding draws in the back brake (only die cast) so I made new ones on my mill, could have bought new ones very cheap but had the satisfaction of making them myself.. Once again great video 👍👍👍 NSW
Glad to hear it, nothing more satisfying. I had to make a few parts in the workshop for my fathers Toyota troop carrier. Nothing better than seeing a part you made yourself in it.
So cool to see all your projects come together for this project! How do you reverse back out when you hit a limit switch? Is there a manual handle on the other end you can use when you disengage the gearbox?
Very nicely done. The current capacity of those switches may be exceeded if connected to the motor leads. If that occurs (meaning they burn up) you should be able to interrupt the common on the forward/reverse selector switch with the same type of switch.
Based on the clip he showed with the ammeter showing around 2A draw those sorts of microswitches should be fine as they tend to have 3A specs at the sort of size he has at the bottom end. They will eventually wear out if constantly breaking the 2A load, but its highly probable they would spend most of their time just staying closed as its unlikely he would always want to use the max travel, and the machine will always be attended so unlikely to accidentally overrun etc..
The switch in this PWM controller carries the full motor load. There is no relays or H-bridge, the output Mosfet is wired directly to "negative" and then the dual pole dual throw switch flips the polarities to the motor.
I've been looking forward to your video all weekend (long weekend here in the states)! Happy to see its powerfeed for the mill since I'll be doing a similar project as soon as I get mine :)
I made one with a windscreen wiper motor unit With a 20 or 35 tooth gear on the output shaft. Then I machined the handwheel outside as a gear to match the one on the motor drive. Then a simple lift lever with notches to engage or disengage the unit to the handwheel.Needleess this was mounted to the end of the table. I have been using this for wbout 5 years. Use a multispeed wiper drive to get speeds. I also swap the gear ratios to increase torque or get the speed down for gear cutting. Cost £25 for the drive unit from car breakers. Whip street motors of Ipswich England.
Timestamps
0:00 - Intro
2:19 - Making The Drive Pin For The Leadscrew
2:56 - Machining the End and Cover Plate
5:50 - How To Mount The Motor And Gearbox
7:33 - Making The Clutch Mechanism
13:33 - Making The Selector Forks For The Clutch Sleeve
19:27 - First Test
20:08 - Making A Cover and Adding Limit Switches
23:26 - Final Test
Hello!
You know you're early to watch a video when there are 0 comments about his use of a hacksaw or any urging him to buy a bandsaw 😂😂😂
yeah.But i think a batterie powerd bandsaw would be a good fit.He can make a mounting plate to put the band saw in and the mounting plate in to the vise .Or he gets him self 90Degree tool holder and puts a saw blade in and uses the mill.
@bosanaz2010 tbh, I think he does it more to troll people as much as anything. He's happy doing things the way he does :)
Buts its the one constant of Artisan Makes content: it'll have a hacksaw cutting a stupidly large piece of metal, and there'll be comments about getting a bandsaw!
Or just use an angle grinder, he probably has one lying around.
Edit from later on in the video: he actually has an angle grinder!
@@hk74654 problem with anglegrinder is cutting tool steels will harden them sometimes....i watch him for a long time.I know the Hacksaw is his signiture...but as i toolmaker i know how much pain it takes to cut big stuff with it
Rather, he should build one
I love how your little projects build on each other. Keep up the great work.
I'm pretty sure that is the point of hobby machining. Build a tool that builds a tool that builds a tool.
He is slowly building his own equipment that he needs for the next project. I dig it.
I like that there is a narrative to the video's and the work involved too.
Hello!
I'm an engineer who has worked almost 10 years with gearboxes for trucks with focus on gear manouvering I think you made a really nice design. Good work!
Thankyou that's very kind.
Good work!
Hello!
Nice project
For the limit switches it would be a good idea to put a diode in parallel on each, so that the motor can only run into the opposite direction when the switch is opened. If you don't do this you have to move the table back by hand each time you run into them (which actually isn't a big problem in your design, but would be if you didn't have a clutch).
I thought about that, but I'm wondering if the limit switches are only in series with the selector. So the limit would only be on the way he's moving leaving the other side free. But I think maybe this diode idea of yours is better
Just read the comments and a lot of people had the same idea as mine. Yours is definitely unique though
@@MOOBBreezy hmmm, that also makes sense, haven't even thought about that. When I designed something like that I connected both wires for each direction pretty shortly after the direction switch.
Very nice build. I would rather not have the knob protruding above the plane of the table. Maybe you never have problems with that but I have sometimes had long objects directly on the table which would then be in conflict with the knob.
I love the arcade racing vibe of that control arm. The click and the obvious tactile feedback.
Dude, I watch a ton of machining channels, and you demonstrate some wild techniques that I've never seen on any other channel. 14:30 perfect example. It's really really cool
Necessity is the mother of invention
I also agree that hobby machining is all about making stuff and having fun, and not necessarily 'always' being cheaper.
I am a hobby woodworker, doing 95% of my work using hand tools. Watching you hacksaw is driving me crazy. No, I don't recommend you buy a bandsaw or power hacksaw (at least, not if you don't have the spare cash).
But I STRONGLY recommend firming up the bench, so the work piece is good and stable. This makes a tremendous difference to sawing (and filing, come to that).
Some diagonal bracing, or (even stronger) fitting a plywood panel to one or more of the faces is cheap and easy to do.
This is cool. An upgrade you could do is have a rail under the table so you can set custom points for the limit switches, and have it auto-reverse when a limit is hit.
Hello!
Your a clever bugger. Its great just watching you do these little projects, I almost get as much satisfaction out of the end result as much as you. Keep up the great work mate.
Nice project.. had to comment on you using up the elbow grease with the hacksaw. 😅
Get yourself 4 cheap V-blocks for the bottom die on your bending jig. They are very hard, and precise; and have 2 bevel widths. Make a simple holder for them that fixes to your flypress table, and it will be easy to set up. Make sure your V-blocks are 'matched' ( mine were .5mm difference in height for my mini hydraulic press, but they work). Your work is excellent and well presented!
Yes!......I did enjoy watching this build, I enjoy all of your vidz. I think they are brilliant.
Do you think that you will ever build your own Metal cutting bandsaw 🤔
Literally let out an "oofftt" of satisfaction watching the keyed bore going onto the key after broaching.
Gday, the spline setup works well and with the detents is a positive engagement, top job mate, cheers
Amazing work mate!! Love to see you improving your tools and your videos, funny and smart af. Cheers
Great solution! The prices on the Sieg powerfeeds are indeed ridiculous, it's almost worth making one even when you factor in work hours
Thanks Phil. Thoroughly enjoyed your build too on this, I remember watching it when it first cane out.
A small tip for sourcing some items for very low prices: go to a local metal scrapyard to find stuff. I acquired 2 of those geared motors for something like $10 and they came out of junked garage door openers. They both work and one even has a clutch to disengage the gears. And yes, they both work, I tested them after I got home. 😀
Hello!
Automobile window or seat gearmotors also excellent for this kind of application !
The thing that continues to blowy mind is in the blacksmith frame of mind...
Need a tool - make a tool.
And you always have the foresight to do that and share it with the world!
Thank you for what, and more importantly, how you do it.
Stay awesome my UA-cam friend!
Hello!
I have seen people use "Allen Drives" & matching "Long Series" Sockets, as Drives.
Simple design, well engineered ,
Nice job 👏👏
Wish i could like the video twice. Awesome man. I also cant wait to see some projects combining machining and 3d printing!
Thank you for the double entendres, I was really enjoying the play on words.
I really admire the good stuff you can turn out with what are basically hobby machines, it inspires me to want to have a go.
Dear Antone, what an excellent project to add facility to your hobby mill. I always enjoy your presentations and take new thoughts away most times.
I have one criticism about today’s project in the placement of the engagement handle for the X-axis power feed. You placed it on top, above the level of the table. This will get in the way of workpieces trying to be loaded on your bed. Can I suggest that you move it to the front or left hand end of the carriage. Cheers.
I love that bolt action rifle click for the spline clutch,
watching with a tea sitting at my lathe :D wondering what i can make for no reason
Great job!!! I love how all your small builds build off each other. You make one thing just to make another to make something else. It's always an amazing adventure watching you work. Until next week. Good day!
Your skills have been growing exponentially. It's cool to watch.
If you wire the limit switches in series with the direction switch you can have them lockout only one direction. Then if you hit a limit you can still back the motor off in the opposite direction instead of rendering it entirely powered down.
Hello!
I love using those motors and gearboxes. Any autoparts store has windshield Wiper motors (what these are) and they're super inexpensive. I've used them on a ton of different projects
I appreciate the electrical elegance of the 3 way switch; reverse-off-forward. But if the speed is non zero, it would be really easy to overshoot the centre (off) position and instead of stopping the feed, just change the direction, which might be catastrophic.
In this instance, I would prefer 2 switches. One a simple (and bigger?) on-off, and the other a forward/reverse.
Its seems to be a 2 switch design one for direction and a seperate knob for controlling speed. A 3 way switch with good detents is gonna be hard to miss the off position and skip to the other direction and if youre really scared of that happening just bottom the feedrate knob to zero first.
@@Schmetty87 Yeah - under well considered, non panic scenarios it's fine.
I was thinking more of the "it's going to crash in 1/2 a second" scenario.
This is a good solution. I did the same one year ago at an old lathe for the leadscrew and it works in the same way. But your arrangment looks much better than mine, so I will improve my design.
It is best practice to mount limit switches in a way that the machine cannot crash them.
Once again your trouble-shooting skills shine through! Awesome results as well.
Nice work! I made a z axis lift for my mill using similar motor. Diode across
switch leads allows it to stop and reverse without manually moving the feed.
I personally had the clutch lever mounted on the side. It gets in the way when working with long overhanging workpieces
I have a drawing for a power feed project for my mill. I have a couple of problems with Power feeds that cut off use of the hand wheel on one side. I have a PM727 mill and it sits on a stand with partially recessed tables hung of the walls on both sides of the mill. This lets me catch the bulk of the chips before they hit the floor and lets me still get mostly on both sides to see my work. The arrangement means that the DRO screen and y axis handle is on the opposite side of your mill. The end result is that 80 percent of my controls need to be run from the left hand side of the machine so I really want to preserve the hand wheel on the power feed side. So I’ll absolutely be using your spline technique for this project.
Now I'm sure 90% of hobby Machines that watch you channel, and others, have similar setups to yours.
It's nice to see someone on YT truly show the world what can be done with these setups.
Closing. I enjoy watching your builds. But, God dammit, it's time for a Band-Saw so you can cut your stock. Even if it's just one of those hand held units.
None the Less. Thanks for the Vid.
Congratulation, another great project and another relaxing video. You make me feel that complicated jobs are so easy to do :)❤
Cheers, any job can be tacked with enough time and cups of tea :)
Some good machining here. The splines were very interesting. I am watching this one again.
If that knob is a potentiometer, you could add a "rapid" switch by having a SPDT momentary switch apply a fixed resistance (which corresponds to your rapid speed) to the appropriate pin on the board while disconnecting the pot when pressed. Release the button and the pot is connected back and you continue at your dialed in feed rate. It would be a simple mod, but would add a lot of useability for the operator (i.e. you)
Hello!
Very funny intro, made me chuckle. Love the videos and the build up to each project from the last.. awesome stuff mate!
Pretty innovative solution. I have in mind a similar project for a quill feed on a Rong Fu 45 clone.
Some good solutions here 👏👏
Robert
Very impressed, always look forward to seeing your videos, your making good use of the fly press! From Coventry in UK 🇬🇧.
Well done!
I'd probably go for a fancier and nicer to use toggle switch, though
I've seen alot of different ideas for power feeds. This is definitely one of the better ones. Nice work and some really precise machining.
Hello!
It looks amazing except I would replace the two cap heads on top that hold on the cover plate with button heads. Cap heads are so tall.
love your videos! also the craziest part of this entire channel to me is that you hand cut your stock. kudos!
Many decades ago I made dc servo drives. We could get very good precision using quadrature pulse tachs, 240 to 600 per, an up/down counter, a d/a , feeding into a an op amp with leading phase shift- pole around 3 radians per second, that in turn fed current to the armature. It worked rather well.
Reference could be a pulse train or follow a tachometer on another shaft.
This was a great project! You're work is improving with every video
Hello!
You really could get a job in tool room somewhere. Nice stuff your doing here and just keep challenging your self we all love the projects.
Cheers. Best to keep all this stuff as a hobby though.
I would also suggest adjustable hard stops to protect the limit switches when operating the feed manually. Just a bolt with a jamb nut next to the switch would work.
If you really want to be fancy, maybe you can hook your DRO up to a micro-controller that controls the power feed? Perfect velocity settings, automatic zeroing/repetition, etc.
I really like your design .. I was thinking of using motorcycle trans spline shafts and build similar to your design idea ! 👍👍
I did indeed enjoy your video and was quite impressed with your machining skills. Bill from Colorado
Nice job one suggestion wire a push button override on the spped control for rappid movement of the table
You have built a very clean unit there. I would like to see more detail on the electrical design, and build. I am a bit challenged in that area.
Great job and clever design. Thank you for sharing your great work, well done.
Great job overall .l.
Some ideas I have about this is an adaption of the synchronizer rings in manual transmissions for coupling under loads, a way for the limits to be contained in the box, be it by a driven fine threaded jack shaft that drives a stop like in my overhead door, or a electronic counter. I would also like a readout in inches/millimeters per min for ease in repeating a known operation.
Nice job. Planning to make similar power feed for my Benchmaster mill. All the bits and pieces are in hand.
Cheers, best of luck
Hacksaw gang is here and we appreciate your videos! ❤
I second the diode comment. I've made machines for opening and closing French garage doors, casement windows, and other kinds of machines like that. You'll need to use diodes that can handle the current though
Other wise they may pop, which may be great on certain holidays, but only if the pop is good enough.
That's an awesome design and great skills in producing the setup. 👍👍👍
Hello!
Your way ahead of the game. Keep it up.
exceptional build. love it...i did a down and drity version of this on one of my round column mills...your fit and finish is spot on.... great design...
Well done. You could have placed your safety switches in serial with the 3 ways switch to select left/stop/right..
There is also PWM tension controler with a 3 digit display : it gives you a kind of speed reference. It is especially useful when you alternate between full speed and slow speed for milling (for example when doing several passes all in climbing).
Your clutch design with the selector is cool.
To avoid doing internal keeways, you can buy a 17mm ratchet wrench bit (1/2") to make the clutch cylinder. It is cheap.
Congratulations
Damien
17mm is substantially larger than 1/2in. 1/2in is 12.7mm so the closest analogue would be the 13mm wrench.
Source: 1in=25.4mm or, 2.54cm.
I love this hack, especially since I haven’t made a good broaching tool for my shop.
Hello!
@ChristopherGoggans pretty sure he means 1/2 inch for the drive size of the socket
At first when seeing the motor, i was already thinking on how to control it with a PWM controller and a DPDT switch. The electronics are super simple and works great, they'll last a long time.
Remember to give the spline and brass bushing some oil, so it runs smooth.
Can you bottom out the microswitch when the motor set at 100%? I'm thinking that if it takes some time to stop the motor and wormgears rotation, you could damage the microswitch or the gearbox.
It seems to stop quite quickly when it hits the limits. And there is still about 20mm of travel left on the table before it is risking of bottoming out. Cheers
All the tools and projects made to get to this one 😍
i'm using sieg SX3 and i made a power feed few years ago, with 57 stepper motor(nema 23) and a driver and hold by a 3d print body
Great job great video if i may give you 2 words of advice i 1 the handle in my opinion should not have been on top but in the front allowing you to have a clear bed top for long pieces and 2 Aliexpress is your friend for anything motor control.
I really enjoy your videos they push me to get up off my chair and make things in my shop thank you
Antone should be elated to get this project done!!! Nice design, implementation and thought process overall all the way through
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Congratulations on achieving 100K 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
I've enjoyed watching your skills grow since you started this chanel. You obviously take the time to do your homework and plan everything out in advance. --And that effort really shows in how well and cleanly the assemblies go together in the end.
You're an inspiration to me, especially in how fast and accurate you've gotten over the last few years. I'm constantly amazed at the sheer volume of work you turn out, with a new high quality video every single week.
LOL, as much as I like seeing a new video every single week, it's okay to take some time off for a well earned vacation!!
Thankyou that is very kind. All I can say is very careful planning and filming allows me to complete the videos on time. Never is ever shot and presented in the correct order and I already have 2024 projects ready to go. Cheers
Hello!
Maybe a bicycle hub engine in direct drive could also be used. Or build your own three phase motor with laminated silicon steel and some permanent magnets.
Simple hub motor drives are cheap and then high speed travels are possible.
Also consider "overclocking" the winder motor in your design using a 12V motor.
A friction clutch by engaging the motor axially could eliminate some complicated parts.
Awesome video as always. Big fan of saving money on something that I can build myself. I do foresee an issue with the engagement knob though, it sticks up above the table, if you ever machine something long that hangs over, it may be in the way, just a thought. 👍
I spotted that as well and was going to say something, but I figured that it is so obvious that he will have taken it into consideration.
At the very least he can unscrew the knob and make a flat sliding knob in its place.
Yeah ive never had that much overhang on a part, but if the situation ever arises I can take the handle off. Cheers
@@artisanmakes Very true, I like the approach. I'll say I was expecting some sort of lever, but I can appreciate the simplicity of the knob with fewer moving parts. And the internal spline broach, genius!
Yeah that was on an original sketch, some sort of eccentric cam but I ultimately went with this design. Cheers
Awesome job.... looks clean and works great... what more could you ask for!!
Still waiting for the link for the 4-jaw chuck you could use.
Hello!
excellent stuff, love to see your progress/work. Take care, from Canada!
Nice job mate I just spent every weekend for about the past two months fitting a power feed to the z axis on my mill and I bought the dedicated and expensive align unit for the job the problem was the mill was never designed to have a Z axis power feed so much of the kit couldn't be used save for the unit itself but it's not about the destination with what we do it's always just about the journey huh. Always enjoy your vids you've given me a few ideas for some things to build a screw press is definitely on the list though space is not my friend look forward to seeing your next project
A little project, nicely done.
As I see it, you won't be putting a handle on it again, since you do have the speed dial on there, so no need. The toggle to left-off-right is close and should always be reachable.
Thanks for sharing another nice one, see you next week! 👍💪✌
Fuse, or current limit for the DC motor? Maybe the DC supply has been selected to make that unnecessary?
That looks faaar nices than my v1 small stepper motor, 3D-print/wood block combination I've been using thus far!
You should mark the plate and knob with the feed speeds, once you figure out how fast it goes
ive used windscreen wiper motors sourced from the scrap yard. 12v power supply is easier to come by than 24v
Looks great 👍 you might want to consider a fast traverse button I use the one on my power feed a lot 😀
Best one yet. Super fresh, super nice...
Get the spline shuttle lever (and screw heads) below the bed height. It's amazing how many times you'll find yourself overhanging the work piece or trying to.
Me personally I haven't had a part overhang the back in the almost 3 years I've had this mill. Cheers
Excellent job
Lot of satisfaction from making things and not buying it
I had the lock pins on the draws on my 4wd sliding draws in the back brake (only die cast) so I made new ones on my mill, could have bought new ones very cheap but had the satisfaction of making them myself..
Once again great video 👍👍👍
NSW
Glad to hear it, nothing more satisfying. I had to make a few parts in the workshop for my fathers Toyota troop carrier. Nothing better than seeing a part you made yourself in it.
Excellent video. It's great to see the press in action.
So cool to see all your projects come together for this project!
How do you reverse back out when you hit a limit switch? Is there a manual handle on the other end you can use when you disengage the gearbox?
yes 😄
I still have the handwheel on it so I can do all my manual machining
Super nice work mate. Heaps better than the bargain power feed I have on my mill.
Brilliant work Sir, thank you for sharing your time with us.
The cost of ready made vs DIY makes this build a no brainer and if you ever decide to go CNC you could adapt the mounting plate to steppers.
Very nice I couldn't help thinking of using a dewalt 20 volt battery to drive the unit. I realize it's a bit uncongenial but it would look cool.
For budget FDM 3D printer i can recomend the Sovol sv06. Cheap and good. Got everything you need, except enclosure for high temp materials.
Not hugely familiar with the 3d printer market. I'll have to look up some videos about that. Cheers
Very nicely done. The current capacity of those switches may be exceeded if connected to the motor leads. If that occurs (meaning they burn up) you should be able to interrupt the common on the forward/reverse selector switch with the same type of switch.
Based on the clip he showed with the ammeter showing around 2A draw those sorts of microswitches should be fine as they tend to have 3A specs at the sort of size he has at the bottom end.
They will eventually wear out if constantly breaking the 2A load, but its highly probable they would spend most of their time just staying closed as its unlikely he would always want to use the max travel, and the machine will always be attended so unlikely to accidentally overrun etc..
The switch in this PWM controller carries the full motor load. There is no relays or H-bridge, the output Mosfet is wired directly to "negative" and then the dual pole dual throw switch flips the polarities to the motor.
I see that now, switch is definitely DPDT. Artisan Makes do not take my advice. Sorry all 😅
I've been looking forward to your video all weekend (long weekend here in the states)! Happy to see its powerfeed for the mill since I'll be doing a similar project as soon as I get mine :)
That's pretty cool. You'll be building whole transmissions before long.
I made one with a windscreen wiper motor unit With a 20 or 35 tooth gear on the output shaft. Then I machined the handwheel outside as a gear to match the one on the motor drive. Then a simple lift lever with notches to engage or disengage the unit to the handwheel.Needleess this was mounted to the end of the table. I have been using this for wbout 5 years. Use a multispeed wiper drive to get speeds. I also swap the gear ratios to increase torque or get the speed down for gear cutting. Cost £25 for the drive unit from car breakers. Whip street motors of Ipswich England.
Life without an X-axis power feed would suck. I even got a power feed for my Z-axis, that is wonderful and my shoulder loves it.
Simply outstanding!💜👏👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍👍