I appreciate your video and it seemed to have answered most of the people's questions; mine was how to mount the bracket into the shelf. I had an old GRASS hinge and since they are no longer manufactures, I purchased the Ferrari hinge; and when I have put them on, they have been in a bind. I will get it figured out. Thanks again from 2024!
Thank you! Finally a video that presented this topic clearly, especially for someone like me who's not especially handy. I was struggling to find the correct hinges to connect the 2 doors together as ours fell apart, ordered the wrong ones twice and then finally you uttered the magic words "60 degree bifold hinges".
I hate the design of the corner cupboards, the door being the biggest nuisance. To hard to get things in and out. You have to contort yourself to get things in and out of the cupboard. I hope they come up with something better, user friendly and practical.
You would expect to have shown the system installed-= without that it would seem no one has one. It just does not show the in use in kitchen, utility, easier or difficult
This was the most helpful video I've seen about this hinge! I've been looking all over the place for something like this to help me understand how these hinges work. But I still have one burning question that I still haven't gotten an answer to! How far can you adjust the door spacing?! What is the widest you can adjust it?! I'm looking for something that will swing an inset door around a 3/4 inch baseboard that's laying right next to it Side by side. It's not a typical setup.
Thanks so much for the comment! For the scenario you're looking for, do you have a picture or drawing that you could send me to help be better understand your specific situation? Would love to help you figure out a solution. ~Dan
@@keystonewoodspecialties1973 Thank you for responding! Here's some pics. I'm in the middle of remodeling this kitchen. Had to remove baseboard for doors to swing open without whacking baseboards. Now I'm looking for a more permanent solution. I may just turn these back into a bifold door which is what it used to be. The brown cabinet on the left will not be there when I'm done with the remodel. Pic 1: drive.google.com/file/d/1QmvqHRnL3zDSgUEOEQ933GSAtw0hFuv7/view?usp=sharing Pic 2: drive.google.com/file/d/1Qv3fUWtgqy7kjL9Kx_ONcjRaNb3uAMyM/view?usp=sharing Pic 3: drive.google.com/file/d/1QwlFI8sEBdGgIufdYvUbW9WCJddNPG87/view?usp=sharing
@@powerofknowledge7771 Thanks for the pics! That helps me understand the situation much better. So there are a few things going on here. The biggest issue I see is the installation of the hinges. The hinges should be installed so that you only see the barrel of the hinge when the door is closed, and the two flats are essentially touching each other. These hinges might also be too small to give the door enough swing clearance (they look like cabinet door hinges), so you may have to look at getting bigger hinges (interior door hinges). Another thing that will help is installing casing around the opening. This buys you a little space between the hinge and the start of the trim, and most casing tapers in thickness as it nears the door, which aids in door clearance. Hopefully that helps! Have a great day! ~Dan
@@keystonewoodspecialties1973 Thanks for taking the time to respond! Those are great ideas! I was just trying to do less work on this project by just getting some different hinges that swing out. lol. I guess there isn't any such thing. Perhaps adding a casing is the only way to go.
Great video! I have one question, I ordered new hinges, but notice that the one that sets in the bored out hole on cabinet door is coming away from the door about 1/8 inch, and you can't screw the screw any tighter. Does this mean something inside the door has rotted and will not even hold a new hinge there where that screw is? The hinge is tight enough to stay on, just not sitting flush in that hole.
Thanks for the question! Based on your description of the situation I believe there are actually two issues here. I believe the new hinges probably require a deeper bore; that's likely what's preventing the hinges from sitting flush against the door. It's also possible that there's something under the hinge, maybe a piece of debris, that's preventing it from going against, so check that first. And the first problem likely caused the second problem: loose screws. The original screws could have been a larger diameter than the new screws and/or the new screws were over-torqued trying to get the hinges to sit flush with the face of the door. The result is a stripped out screw hole. My recommendation here is to either switch to a larger diameter screw or drill out the screw hole with a 1/4" drill bit, glue and plug it with a 1/4" wooden dowel, and then pre drill and reattach the hinges. Hopefully that helps! ~ Dan
Hi Jarry, that is definitely a possibility! I always recommend testing it on a scrap piece first, if you have one. And if you're consistently getting tearout on your scrap piece I would recommend switching to a different type of corner hinge. Salice makes a hinge that uses a more typical cup drilling that doesn't cut into the edge of the door. Hopefully that helps! ~Dan
I have a cabinet that is 80" tall that i am considering using a hinge like this on. Instead of a lazy susan it is a large corner cabinet in a closet. Can I use 4 or 5 sets of hinges and use these hinges in the same way as you use here on a base cabinet.
Hi Jameson, Are you referring to the 170 degree hinges? If so, the height adjustment on the 170 degree hinge is the same as the bi-fold hinge: the adjustment is actually on the mounting plate, and the 170 degree hinge has an access hole that allows you to get a screwdriver through the hinge to the height adjustment on the mounting plate. Hopefully that help! Let me know if you have any other questions. Have a great day! ~Dan
Thanks a lot for this wonderful explanation, my question please: what is the distance from the center of the 60 degrees bi-fold hing to the edge of the door to make the correct drilling? Thank you!
Thanks for the comment! When used in a lazy susan application these hinges hold up really well. A typical Base corner cabinet is 36" x 36", which leaves a 12" x 12" face if the ends are 24" deep. So the normal lazy susan doors are typically 12" wide or less, which means these hinges are not subjected to a lot of weight in a susan application. If you're using these with a different setup and much larger doors I would check the weight rating with Blum and possibly do a test setup. Hopefully that helps! Have a great day! ~Dan
What is the distance of the hole of that concealed hinge from the side of the wood? Normal hinges usually can be installed 2.3-2.5mm. Do the same applies?
Hi Sanjoe! The hinge that attaches the door to the cabinet is the 71T6550 hinge (Clip-top 170 degree) with the 176H6000 mounting plate, which is a "zero" plate. You can either bore the door at 2.5MM DBE, which will cause the door to overlay the cabinet by 1/2", or you can bore the door with an 8MM DBE, which will cause the door to overlay the cabinet by 3/4". Hopefully that helps! ~Dan
Hi Marco, thanks for asking! The current Blum spec book indicates 12.5mm from the edge of the door to the center of the bore. And yes, the bore diameter is 35mm. Hope that helps! ~Dan
Have you found any hinges like this, especially the 60 degree ones, that you don't have to bore into the door. I have now spoken to more people than I can count and returned five types of hinges and spent stupid amounts of hours trying to find lazy susan hinges for my doors. They're too thin to bore into, and everyone keeps giving me the wrong hinges.
@@keystonewoodspecialties1973 great video, are the plates you’re using to mount these hinges a 0mm, 3mm, 4.5mm etc?? Also, going through a supplier catalog for Blum hinges, I don’t see a 60degree bi fold hinge anymore. Did they update this to the 90 degree clip top bi fold self close hinge?? Do you know Blum’s part number for the 60 degree hinge?? Thank you!!!
@@keystonewoodspecialties1973one other question, how do you go about ordering the correct door sizes for the opening with these hinges? Are there any “gotchas” to look for??
@@ericlind3569 Hi Eric, Thanks for the questions! We listed out all the part numbers for both the hinges and the mounting plates in the description. You can use a different plate for the 170 degree hinges, based on what overlay you're looking to have. The 60 degree bi-fold hinge is on page 36 in my concealed hinges catalog. There is also a guide for calculating door sizes on the same page. Hopefully that helps. Happy hinging! ~Dan
The hinges used in this video are BLUM 60 degree clip-top (79T8500.10 with hinge mounting plate 175H6000) and BLUM 170 degree clip-top (71T6550). We recommend that you refer to the BLUM literature for the hinge that suits your specific application.
The hinges used in this video are BLUM 60 degree clip-top (79T8500.10 with hinge mounting plate 175H6000) and BLUM 170 degree clip-top (71T6550). We recommend that you refer to the BLUM literature for the hinge that suits your specific application.
I appreciate your video and it seemed to have answered most of the people's questions; mine was how to mount the bracket into the shelf. I had an old GRASS hinge and since they are no longer manufactures, I purchased the Ferrari hinge; and when I have put them on, they have been in a bind. I will get it figured out. Thanks again from 2024!
Thank you for stating the hinge on the cabinet is 170 that is what I needed to know
Thank you! Finally a video that presented this topic clearly, especially for someone like me who's not especially handy. I was struggling to find the correct hinges to connect the 2 doors together as ours fell apart, ordered the wrong ones twice and then finally you uttered the magic words "60 degree bifold hinges".
This was very helpful. I have never installed hinges on a lazy susan cabinet and wasn't sure how to do it. Thank you!
Thank you your video is the only one that answered my question
Thanks it would have been helpful if you hadn't pre drilled the hinge plate and shower how you aligned the plate.
I'm pretty sure the doors come with the holes pre-drilled, mine did.
You’re a Complete pro! Thank you.
Thank you thank you thank you!
Did I say, "Thank you!" Because if I didn't, Thank You!!!
thankyou , good tip on shelf and hinge position
Thank you! very helpful video
This was really useful, thank you.
This is superb! Thank you for sharing.
I hate the design of the corner cupboards, the door being the biggest nuisance. To hard to get things in and out. You have to contort yourself to get things in and out of the cupboard. I hope they come up with something better, user friendly and practical.
Corner triangle drawer... My partner made one and it's amazing
You would expect to have shown the system installed-= without that it would seem no one has one. It just does not show the in use in kitchen, utility, easier or difficult
This was the most helpful video I've seen about this hinge! I've been looking all over the place for something like this to help me understand how these hinges work. But I still have one burning question that I still haven't gotten an answer to! How far can you adjust the door spacing?! What is the widest you can adjust it?! I'm looking for something that will swing an inset door around a 3/4 inch baseboard that's laying right next to it Side by side. It's not a typical setup.
Thanks so much for the comment! For the scenario you're looking for, do you have a picture or drawing that you could send me to help be better understand your specific situation? Would love to help you figure out a solution.
~Dan
@@keystonewoodspecialties1973 Thank you for responding! Here's some pics. I'm in the middle of remodeling this kitchen. Had to remove baseboard for doors to swing open without whacking baseboards. Now I'm looking for a more permanent solution. I may just turn these back into a bifold door which is what it used to be. The brown cabinet on the left will not be there when I'm done with the remodel.
Pic 1: drive.google.com/file/d/1QmvqHRnL3zDSgUEOEQ933GSAtw0hFuv7/view?usp=sharing
Pic 2: drive.google.com/file/d/1Qv3fUWtgqy7kjL9Kx_ONcjRaNb3uAMyM/view?usp=sharing
Pic 3: drive.google.com/file/d/1QwlFI8sEBdGgIufdYvUbW9WCJddNPG87/view?usp=sharing
@@powerofknowledge7771 Thanks for the pics! That helps me understand the situation much better. So there are a few things going on here. The biggest issue I see is the installation of the hinges. The hinges should be installed so that you only see the barrel of the hinge when the door is closed, and the two flats are essentially touching each other. These hinges might also be too small to give the door enough swing clearance (they look like cabinet door hinges), so you may have to look at getting bigger hinges (interior door hinges). Another thing that will help is installing casing around the opening. This buys you a little space between the hinge and the start of the trim, and most casing tapers in thickness as it nears the door, which aids in door clearance.
Hopefully that helps! Have a great day!
~Dan
@@keystonewoodspecialties1973 Thanks for taking the time to respond! Those are great ideas! I was just trying to do less work on this project by just getting some different hinges that swing out. lol. I guess there isn't any such thing. Perhaps adding a casing is the only way to go.
Thank you, very helpful
Great explanation! Thanks! 😀
Very clear explanation n video presentation. Amazing work
De casualidad estos videos los tienen en españo
Are both doors the same equal width?? Or is one door 3/4” less than the other with all the cups drilled in it, to account for the door thickness??
Great video! I have one question, I ordered new hinges, but notice that the one that sets in the bored out hole on cabinet door is coming away from the door about 1/8 inch, and you can't screw the screw any tighter. Does this mean something inside the door has rotted and will not even hold a new hinge there where that screw is? The hinge is tight enough to stay on, just not sitting flush in that hole.
Thanks for the question! Based on your description of the situation I believe there are actually two issues here. I believe the new hinges probably require a deeper bore; that's likely what's preventing the hinges from sitting flush against the door. It's also possible that there's something under the hinge, maybe a piece of debris, that's preventing it from going against, so check that first. And the first problem likely caused the second problem: loose screws. The original screws could have been a larger diameter than the new screws and/or the new screws were over-torqued trying to get the hinges to sit flush with the face of the door. The result is a stripped out screw hole. My recommendation here is to either switch to a larger diameter screw or drill out the screw hole with a 1/4" drill bit, glue and plug it with a 1/4" wooden dowel, and then pre drill and reattach the hinges. Hopefully that helps!
~ Dan
When boring the middle cups on a thermofoil door, will thr bit tear apart the thermofoil coating when blowing out the side?
Hi Jarry, that is definitely a possibility! I always recommend testing it on a scrap piece first, if you have one. And if you're consistently getting tearout on your scrap piece I would recommend switching to a different type of corner hinge. Salice makes a hinge that uses a more typical cup drilling that doesn't cut into the edge of the door. Hopefully that helps!
~Dan
My left ear is happy while my right is sad
I have a cabinet that is 80" tall that i am considering using a hinge like this on. Instead of a lazy susan it is a large corner cabinet in a closet. Can I use 4 or 5 sets of hinges and use these hinges in the same way as you use here on a base cabinet.
I wish you would've shown how to adjust the other2..is there no up/dn adjustment?
Hi Jameson,
Are you referring to the 170 degree hinges? If so, the height adjustment on the 170 degree hinge is the same as the bi-fold hinge: the adjustment is actually on the mounting plate, and the 170 degree hinge has an access hole that allows you to get a screwdriver through the hinge to the height adjustment on the mounting plate. Hopefully that help! Let me know if you have any other questions.
Have a great day!
~Dan
You should of shown people how it works on the unit itself
Very helpful!
The hinge swings both ways ☺️😅
Thanks a lot for this wonderful explanation, my question please: what is the distance from the center of the 60 degrees bi-fold hing to the edge of the door to make the correct drilling? Thank you!
The correct distance from the edge of the door to the center of the cup drilling for the bi-fold hinge is 12.5mm.
"So it swings in two different directions"... Kinky!
please comment what type of hinges are use in for corner unit
Thanks for the demo!!
This looks great. We are designing out wardrobe and need to do something like this. Do the hinges take the weight of the door well over time? Thanks
Thanks for the comment! When used in a lazy susan application these hinges hold up really well. A typical Base corner cabinet is 36" x 36", which leaves a 12" x 12" face if the ends are 24" deep. So the normal lazy susan doors are typically 12" wide or less, which means these hinges are not subjected to a lot of weight in a susan application. If you're using these with a different setup and much larger doors I would check the weight rating with Blum and possibly do a test setup.
Hopefully that helps! Have a great day!
~Dan
What is the distance of the hole of that concealed hinge from the side of the wood? Normal hinges usually can be installed 2.3-2.5mm. Do the same applies?
Hi Sanjoe!
The hinge that attaches the door to the cabinet is the 71T6550 hinge (Clip-top 170 degree) with the 176H6000 mounting plate, which is a "zero" plate. You can either bore the door at 2.5MM DBE, which will cause the door to overlay the cabinet by 1/2", or you can bore the door with an 8MM DBE, which will cause the door to overlay the cabinet by 3/4". Hopefully that helps!
~Dan
The cup hole that goes past. Do you have a measurement of what that is required for them hinges?
perfectly executed ! :)
Hey! What's the centre measurement for the 'half-bore' hole? I know it's a 35mm bore, but how far from the edge should I start my drill?
Hi Marco, thanks for asking! The current Blum spec book indicates 12.5mm from the edge of the door to the center of the bore. And yes, the bore diameter is 35mm. Hope that helps!
~Dan
Have you found any hinges like this, especially the 60 degree ones, that you don't have to bore into the door. I have now spoken to more people than I can count and returned five types of hinges and spent stupid amounts of hours trying to find lazy susan hinges for my doors. They're too thin to bore into, and everyone keeps giving me the wrong hinges.
Awesome video!
Got a question. Does the same mounting plate fit the 60 and 170 degree hinges?
Hi Danny, glad you liked the video! I do use the same mounting plate for both hinges in the video. Have a great day!
~Dan
@@keystonewoodspecialties1973 great video, are the plates you’re using to mount these hinges a 0mm, 3mm, 4.5mm etc?? Also, going through a supplier catalog for Blum hinges, I don’t see a 60degree bi fold hinge anymore. Did they update this to the 90 degree clip top bi fold self close hinge?? Do you know Blum’s part number for the 60 degree hinge?? Thank you!!!
@@keystonewoodspecialties1973one other question, how do you go about ordering the correct door sizes for the opening with these hinges? Are there any “gotchas” to look for??
@@ericlind3569 Hi Eric,
Thanks for the questions! We listed out all the part numbers for both the hinges and the mounting plates in the description. You can use a different plate for the 170 degree hinges, based on what overlay you're looking to have. The 60 degree bi-fold hinge is on page 36 in my concealed hinges catalog. There is also a guide for calculating door sizes on the same page. Hopefully that helps. Happy hinging!
~Dan
@@keystonewoodspecialties1973 I just saw the part numbers, thank you for that. However, I don’t see a link for your door calculating guide or page?
Good i vesit your Chanel thank you for this vidéo
what is the name or manufacture of the hinges that connects the doors or are between the two doors?
The hinges used in this video are BLUM 60 degree clip-top (79T8500.10 with hinge mounting plate 175H6000) and BLUM 170 degree clip-top (71T6550). We recommend that you refer to the BLUM literature for the hinge that suits your specific application.
so would I HIRE A trim carpenter to do job like this?
sure
What kind door hinge is that
The hinges used in this video are BLUM 60 degree clip-top (79T8500.10 with hinge mounting plate 175H6000) and BLUM 170 degree clip-top (71T6550). We recommend that you refer to the BLUM literature for the hinge that suits your specific application.
I did it with the Woodglut plans.
Bla bla bla bla why don't you get to the point.
very good video. I didn't know this door arrangement was available
I've heard good feedback about the Woodprix plans.