Amen Hallelujah! Finally a professional who explains in detail on how, what and where to setup the Custom Control settings. NONE of these so called pros who review and unbox (which is completely useless for experienced photographers) the Nikon Z series and lenses don't even mention "Custom Control" much less explain the comforts of using these options. Every time I'd begin working on my instructional video for Custom Control I end up babbling. Mahalo Sir for your experience and expertise. Saved, Shared and Replayed.
Just bought a Z6 for street and travel photography, having searched lots of vids yours is one of the best for talking through set up, and its nice to see a good detailed vlog without all the painful theatrics to try and get viewers. I have subscribed and look forward to more of your Vlogs.
here I am. some 1y9m later and Hudson's comments are still relevant...and one of the better videos on the Z camera custom settings to date. One thing !'ll note here for future viewers, is that the user buttons U1,U2 and U3 and the 'My Menu' items are NOT saved when you Save Settings prior to a reset of the camera, should you need to do one. It's annoying to find out after the event. I' hoping a firmware update might fix this, we'll see. Never-the-less, some good tips here. Thank you Hudson.
My Z7 arrived yesterday so your tips should come in handy. I no longer shoot professionally so it’s my replacement for my lead-weight D3/D700/D800 gear. I am 77 and had a nasty summer of 2018 and the lighter weight of my gear is important even when screwing around in New York City and State. Thank you so much.
I've been shooting with the Z6 for a couple of months now. This is far the best reference video for setting it up. Picked up the Z7 yesterday. I find turning WRAP 'on' helps with speeding up selecting a focus point say in 'AF-S' mode.
Thanks so much! Yeah, I've tried that, but I find just hitting the center of the joystick to get the middle works better for my style. We're all different. :-)
Thanks Hudson ! Really enjoyed this and the other two videos on the Z series from Nikon. I need to go back and work thru these with my camera for setup. While I also watched another contributor to this space go through details of the camera, I really appreciate the personal touch of having you in the image talking as well as being able to share the screen with menus or you interacting with the physical parts of the camera. This is an excellent overview and I highly recommend it to someone looking for excellent advice on setting up the Z series. Bravo!
Thanks very much. For me is the assignment of My-Menu to the Video Rec-Button very helpful. So, I can easily access a lot of other settings. Try it.. :-)
I just got my z6 and found this tutorial very helpful in customizing the i-menu and buttons. I've been shooting the D750 for a while so I was generally familiar with the menu options but there are definitely some big differences between the interface and customization options with the two cameras so thanks for helping me figure some of it out!
Hi Hudson, Thanks for all of your excellent videos! I wanted to tell you that I ordered an L-Bracket for my Z7 from Kirk Enterprises based on your recommendation and you are right, they are fantastic people. I must have changed my mind 3 times on my order and sent items to and fro and they could not have been any nicer. They are terrific people to deal with. Thanks again, best to you, Rick
Super great setup video. Hudson is a natural and all of his videos are top notch. I was able to get my Z7 set up in no time. Much more to deal with than my D810. Thanks Hudson.
I’m a landscape photographer (who dabbles in film) and rightly or wrongly sold my d810 for a z6. The plan is to fully adopt the mirrorless system, get used to it with the z6 and then get a better body for landscapes down the line (z8 maybe). Great video, very informative, you’ve gained a subscriber!
Thanks Jonny! I think that's a good move. You may find you love it, particularly since you dabble with film. ;-) It's beats the doors off the d810 in low light, live view, and video.
I loved hearing you say Zed 6, like most of my fellow Canadians. Nice video, will watch the others. Having a hard time choosing between the Z6 and Z7. One day I lean that way and next day the other way. Eventually I will figure it out.
An excellent video on the Z System Customization, Hudson! As a landscape and product photographer, I recently moved from the nice Fuji X-System, to this Z7, primarily because I wanted to get even more sharpness/detail in my large landscape prints/panoramas. I find the Z7 to be amazing in its build quality, ergonomics, customizability, and of course, image quality with the superb Nikkor S lenses! (I also look forward to testing the Laowa 100 f/2.8 Ultra Macro on it. Would love to see an image comparision betwee it and an eventual Micro-Nikkor S 105 f/2.8! Thanks for your always educational and inspirational videos! BTW, your landscape images are superb!
Excellent video, Henry!! Subscribing wasn't a hard decision. I just wanted to clarify something about card formatting. Formatting the card using the camera's menu system *is* the best way to ensure compatibility and definitely wipes "protected" files, but it doesn't "refresh" the card. Card formatting on cameras only deletes the file location index, it doesn't "zero" the storage bits, so your blurb about lost bits getting cleaned up, etc, is technically untrue. All those files are still there, just not visible to most operating systems. Using flash recovery software should locate all those pictures pretty easily. As a rule, this is why you would *not* rely on a camera system format to wipe cards before selling those old cards second-hand. For that, use a full format (not a quick format) on a PC/Mac.
Hey there, thanks! First name is Hudson, but no big deal. What I mean is that you refresh cards for the camera (I meant re-optimize them) which results in less problems with the cards sprouting errors when used after multiple deletions on your computer vs formatting in camera after use. I didn't think i was advocating scrubbing them in any way. Can't remember ever selling a card, but I'd be first inclined to put a drill bit through them to be sure about any sensitive info being recovered.
What an excellent overview of all the settings. I'm receiving my Z6 tomorrow and will be using your video as a basis to learn the ins and outs of it. I've watched some of your other Z6 videos already, and I'm looking forward to more content as you continue to shoot with it. Thanks for the in-depth tutorial.
Just got a Z6 and am setting up the menus. I noticed the 'Vibration Reduction' menu selection is grayed out when using my FX lenses with a FTZ adapter even with the lens VR setting turned on. Is this normal? Is VR working even if the menu is grayed in both the menu list and on the 'i' button?
I just used my Z 6 to photograph a gymnastics meet and it did pretty good. Does it focus as fast as my D500 no but I will say this the images at ISO 8000 look much better then what the D500 can do. I did find it would keep up pretty good on the vault with them running towards me. But I did switch back to my D500 for the beam and floor routines. I used the high extended fps setting and kind of annoying not seeing the action like a DSLR but on the bars I just kept the camera pointed at the subject and hoped for the best and it did pretty good. Thank you for all your work you put into your reviews.
excellent walk-thru hudson. i’ve got my z7 about 90% configured to my liking, but you shared some great tips for the remaining 10%...very helpful. quick q: not sure if this is a bug or just a missing feature. one of my i-menu options i’ve set to ISO. however, the i-menu display does not distinguish between auto-ISO and manual-ISO. i know you can check that on the top OLED screen, but it seems like nikon could easily and helpfully display an asterisk on the i-menu to let you immediately check the status of your ISO setting. am i missing something? thanks again very much for your clear, crisp, no-nonsense video.
I tend to free that menu slot up since there is a dedicated iso button up top in the body. Hold that top button and rotate the back dial to change the iso number and the front dial to turn auto on and off. The top lcd panel will give you a -A in auto mode so you can tell. For example 64-A for auto. Hope that helps. Thanks for the kind words!
Many thanks, a very helpful tutorial, had me diving into features and menu systems I have sort of retreated away from with my hands out in front of me and coming up with a more usable camera. Love the magnification zoom on the OK button, really helpful and nice to break away from being a 100% autofocus shoooter
Hudson, as I have settled more into the use of my camera under different situations (day, night in particular) I came back to your helpful video. What is the name of the smartphone control app you mention at 9 minute 30secs. Many thanks
Thanks so much for this. My Z6 should be with me this week and, coming from an analogue-controlled Fuji environment, this video will help me tremendously when I set the camera up.
Thanks for a very informative video. It has sped up my setting time considerable. I do have one question : I'm a wildlife photographer and for several years have used a D500. On this I was able to programme three separate buttons for autofocus operation. I was able to apply different modes to each one. Such as single point, group and wide mode. This meant I could instantly select a focus mode just by using my thumb or different finger. Although I can program different command buttons for focus activation on my Z6 it appears I cannot assign various focus modes and need to use a selector dial. Can you confirm this is the case and could you say weather the Z9 does allow for this ?
After two years of usage and loving my Z6 I just learned how to use it even more efficient. Thanks for sharing your settings, I definitely will try them out. One question: I don't understand how to use the BKT on FN Button. If I program it there, it simply doesn't do anything. Makes no difference if I press it or not. What am I doing wrong?
Thank you for this! I got my Z6 body this week and this really helped me wade through the menu and get some things set up. I'm moving up from a D610 so it's a bit of a learning curve, but I'm feeling better about it. I don't get how to set up the eye detection focus they are going on about, so I'll need to spend some time researching that. Once I figure that out, I think it will basically be the perfect camera (for me).
Very helpful video. How do you setup the viewfinder to show icons in the black border on the left, bottom, and right of the potential picture? Black borders appear only on the bottom and top of my viewfinder. The DISP button does not present this option.
Not sure where I have heard this from a few people - but one thing that is confusing on this camera (I own the Z6) - AC power source (or external power) while the camera is turned on. It appears from the manual that I need the EH-5c as well as the "fake battery insert" (EP-5B). But the EH-5C I cannot locate. It also appears that this is the only way to power the camera while actually using the camera via AC. I thought I heard yourself and another photography expert I have followed suggest there is a USB solution to this on the Z6, but it appears to only charge via USB when the camera is off. Curious if I have missed something! Love your videos. Could watch all day!
So - I will add my own reply. My favorite dealer has recommended a combination of Case Relay power and an adapter / battery (fitting into camera) that is compatible with the EN-EL15 cameras from Nikon. I have an email into the manufacturer website (Tether Tools) - really curious to make sure this is a viable solution. Looks like Nikon has not shipped the proper power supply for this (with the proprietary connectors to fit the battery insert). There are a few available used (Nikon variety) for an arm + leg. I'll repose my experience.
Yes, sorry I've been away on the Baja Trip and am just catching up. You'll need the Case Relay or Tether Tools dummy battery to charge. I have the Tether tools version and have tested it. It works great. I wish you could power it while charging via USB, but I think it's a matter of voltage regulation from far too many potential different sources.
Nice video on setting up the Nikon Z 6. Just bought one so learned a lot from your video. Just have to ask tho, are you an ex missile launch officer, an old SAC warrior? It’s kind of an exclusive club!
Great video! I need some help! I use a z50 and I noticed the brightness in the EVF and screen only reflect the brightness of the actual photo under Manual mode not A or S modes.(I have d8 set to apply to live view) The brightness in the EVF and screen doesn't change when I change the shutter speed or aperture but it does change when I adjust the exposure. The photos can come out really dark when they look bright in the EVF and Screen. I was able to preview the brightness of the actual photos when I set the fn1 button to 'depth of field preview' as shown in your video but I think I shouldn't need to do that to preview the brightness/exposure since that's supposed to be a benefit of an EVF? Am I doing anything wrong?
In A and S modes I find that a huge help as compared with DSLRs because it keeps a nice bright easy to see view to organize composition and focus. You shouldn't have dark images result in auto mode unless you've dialed in exposure compensation, exceeded your max auto iso setting, or left your iso in manual and exceeded your exposure capability with aperture and shutter speed. My advice would be to use auto iso in the handheld modes (A or S) with a max limit set where you feel comfortable with the noise results and keep an eye on your ISO and exposure compensation readings while shooting. Look at results a bit with the RGB histogram activated (what you should really be shooting for) to see if you want to mess with exposure compensation at all and enjoy that nice, bright, easy to see view while composing and focusing in the auto /handheld modes. When you get on a tripod, go manual and turn off auto iso and you'll see every change you make live, but still trust in the histogram review, not the live view. :)
@@HudsonHenryPhoto I appreciate all the great suggestions! I did leave ISO at one level and I thought I should see the image dim down as I increase the shutter speed at S mode which is how my Canon m6 markii works. Sounds like that's not the case with z50? I was able to preview the exposure when pressing the 'preview depth of field' butto though.
I'm abit confused. I've just got my z6. I've just fitted an old manual only lens nikon 50mm 1.2. When I change apature in stills mode I can see live the dof. But listening to your video you say this isn't the case and you have to switch to video mode to see the live dof. Am I getting mixed up or was this changed in second firmware?
Yep, it's in exactly the same spot actually. You should check out the new video from yesterday on the Z6ii. There are a few settings that are not there on the Z6, but some of my updated thoughts, like the U1-U3 settings are very much an update from this video that will be just as applicable for you. The My menu is the bottom tab on the Z6. Scroll left and down and you'll hit it. You have to add items to it. I go over that really well in the new video from yesterday on setting up the Z6ii and it's the same.
Because I'm a hybrid shooter mainly I set the shutter button to record in movie mode so I'm back button focusing in both movie and stills - my mind doesn't get scrambled then.
Dumping my Huge Olympus kit and just bought Both the Z6 with Atomos Ninja V & also the Z7 Im super excited for the Prores RAW so that's why I bought the Z6 And as a product photographer, I had to get the Z7 for it megapixels I'm hoping that NIKON will hold true to their word and come out with many Firmware Updates for a couple years for these cameras before they come out will next gen "Z" bodies that would hurt .. Looking forward to more of your NIKON "Z" tutorials regards, Rick
Hello Henry. Thank you for the video but on my Nikon Z7 Autofocus trackin in video mode seems not to work if I want to film my self and I do not have an operator filming me. Can you explain how to set the camera to make it work? thanks a lot.
I am close to purchasing a Z6... but I've read some reviews that say they either can't use flash or can't activate the flash's auto assist beam for pinpoint sharpness for lowlight flash photography usage. Could you do a video for flash photography for the Z6 please? Would be a great help! Thanks, Eric
Hello there. I have Nikon Z6 and when I try to shoot multiple exposure, the camera take only one shoot and then stops and just wait to press the shutter button to continue capturing. I can't make it to take series of shots and I can't tell why. Maybe some setting forbid multiple exposure mode or it's a bug in software?
I had the new Z6 for a couple of weeks and I'm having an annoying message that stops the camera. it said, " shutter release disable, recharge your battery" and this occurs also with a brand new fully charged battery. this happened while I was recording a video, reviewing photos or playing a video on the camera. to fix it, I had to shut off the camera and remove the battery. This clears the problem, but it happens too frequently that I'm thinking is a malfunction, shud I send the camera to the warranty?
Hey Hudson I just went through your set up and I am having trouble getting the FN2 button to accept the bracketing mode for U1. My save/load setting is grayed out. I checked the Controls Custom control assignment set up and my FN2 button is set to bracketing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Loving your videos.
A big one is that you need to be in A, M, S or P mode to program in a U mode. You can't already be in U1 or U2 when you set it as the mode setting is a critical piece of what's being locked in. That seems the most likely culprit. You set it up how you wnat, (for example, in A mode, bracketing on f2, etc..). and then save it as U2. When you flip to U2 it will then be in A mode.
Is there any way to lock the focus on the Z6? I use the back focus button, & my fat thumb keeps moving the joystick. I shoot motorsports so I don't have time to readjust all the the time.
It's a great question and another thing I'd like to see them add. Focus point lock, backlit buttons, two button format and reset, DOF preview lock, and AF tracking improvement. That's my list, but I still love the cameras.
Thx for the video, i do have a question. Lets say i want to make an U1 setting with aperture prriority as my starting point. I turn the PASM dial to A and then set all my settings and save it to U1. After I have done this i stay in A and adjust some more settings. My question: will these adjustments be 'saved' on the A mode in the PASM dial when I swith to lets say M mode or turn off the camera? OR will the A mode (as well as P, M and S) return to some default position once you turn off the camera or change to an other mode on the PASM dial? if the settings are saved I can effectively use the M and A mode (i always shoot aperture priority and manual exposure) as a U4 and U5 mode. The only difference being with the U1 - U3 that if i change settings these will be saved as in U1 - U3 the changes will ONLY be saved if you choose that in the menu. Id love to hear from you, thank you in advance!
Yep, exactly. The PASM modes do stay sticky. If you have the camera at base ISO 250 f8 in daylight white balance in M mode with manual focus and then flip to U3 (which for me is S mode with 1/1000 shutter in auto area AF-C and auto ISO, and auto WB), bam you're ready for action. Action ends, flip back to M mode and you're still at 250 f8 in manual focus with daylight and base ISO. Video mode is also sticky in PASM, so if you were shooting video at 50 F16 and tungsten, then flipped the switch to stills it will remember the last used still PASM settings (and vice versa) It's very handy. My one complaint is that it doesn't include drive mode. For me to flip from Landscape to Action, I have to flip to U3 and also switch drive mode from single frame to hi speed multi-frame capture... No idea why they don't include drive mode in the memory.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thank you for your quick reply, great to hear that! Now i just need to sell some fuji gear and get me a Z6 :).... Odd indeed that drive mode is not saved, though it is not that important for me as i always have my fuji in 4fps continuous, if i want to single shot my pictures i just quick press the button once (called shutterbutton mashing I believe). I am also looking for a XQD card. Which brand would you recommend for best price/performace/durability ratio?
I've got links to all my recommended gear at www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks. I'd really urge you to go cfexpress B. It's the future and reverse compatible. I've got ProGrade cards linked there. :)
Just setting up my Z6 and found your vid very helpful. One question I have that you might know is I use delayed shutter/self timer a lot on my D850 and on that camera it’s on the dial with the shooting modes. On the Z6 it’s on the back bottom right button and you have to cycle through that menu to turn it on. Haven’t been able to figure out how map it for quick activation to say the fn1 button. Any thoughts or info about this? Had the camera for a few hours so if you don’t know then I’ll dig further into the manual....
if you are putting yourself in the frame and really need the time/multiple frames of self timer, then I don't think there's a way to map that onto the function buttons. However, you might be better served by Exposure Delay mode which does the same thing essentially for shorter delays and a single frame. I use that all the time instead of a cable release. On the DSLRs it even lifts the mirror before the delay starts to avoid that vibration. That you can map to the Function buttons if you look down the list. :-)
Hi and Merry Christmas! So far i love the feel and output on my z6. And with the kit 24-70 AF is quite good. Do you think firmware update will make the AF faster with the adapter? Would have been nice to use the Z6 with the N 200-500 in low light wildlife shooting. Love my D500 but not with high ISO. 🇳🇴
I wish I could add an extra step to formatting the card. I preferred the two button method on D800 thru D850. It's more critical now that there is only one card. I actually deleted 15 minutes of shots recently because I glanced at the preview images and forgot there were two assignments on the card. Adding more steps for reformat would help at least a little.
I hear ya, but I really want the 2 button reset back to simplify in my mind. I don't want to have to dive into my menu, find format, choose ok, and then confirm. I've never ever used a 2nd card for backup. It was always video and overflow, so i really don't get the concern about the 2nd slot, particularly with the robust build of XQDs, but that's me. :-)
It's a great question. Video guys tend to do it by activating zebra stripes on the overexposed areas and using the histogram display view in conjunction to set exposure. The display button cycles through to that. It works quite well to get the exposure to the edge of clipping where you want it. .
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thanks so much for replying. i'm just getting started with videos so i prefer the usual meter scale. It would be great if you can point me to a resource or any ideas on using this zebra and exposure method
@@101010328 I'll do a video soon, but for now just know that when you activate the Zebras you'll see any highlights that are blown as winky moving zebra stripes on the live view. Press display while looking at the video till you see the little histogram in the bottom right corner and use the exposure controls to move the image data as far to the right (hgihlights) as you can without getting zebra stripes. If you are going to move the camera, then pan around to be sure no move will blow out important highlight details and if not, then you are set.
Thank you for this wonderful tutorial. You talked about phone software to control timelapse. Could you tell me how to find this software? I thought you said the name was QDSLR but I can't find that in the app store.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thank you so much for the quick reply. I'll check it out. I got my Z6 today and your tutorial was so helpful in setting up my camera. Now, off to test it out!!
Almost forgot. When you go to connect to qdslr via wifi connecting to your camera, you may need to disable mobile data on your phone. Try that if you have trouble.
Hi Henry, first and foremost thank you very much for your comparison video and all the information! Yet I have one unanswered question in mind, which was neither answered in your video nor through help of google search. Due to the smaller resolution and identical sensor size, the ISO performance of the Z6 is always described as slightly less noisy in comparison to the Z7. Therefore I suppose for low light and night shots I should rather get myself a Z6? Yet I am asking myself, what if you use the Z7 with the 24 MP setting instead of the 45 MP. Does this mean it would show similar ISO / low light performance compared to the Z6? Or would the Z7 24 MP images nonetheless be recorded in 45 MP first and just be downscaled to 24 MP? I would appreciate very much if you know the answer! Cheers Michael
Hey Michael, first name is Hudson, but no big deal. :) the problem is that higher resolution sensors pack more megapixels into the same size sensor. By switching to 24MP the camera merely turns off the outer portion of the sensor (like cropping in post) it doesn't make the pixels on the sensor less densely arrayed and noisey. The question remains, if you shoot at 46MP, then edit and down sample low light images to 24MP how do they compare. My take so far having both cameras is that the Z6 is still about a stop cleaner. 12800 looks like 6400 on the Z7 downrezzed to match. They're both very good. If you do big prints and crop a lot, get the 7. If low light, action (for the bigger relative buffer} and / or video (no line skipping) are more your jam, get the 6. :)
Hi am hoping you can help, I've just purchased a z 6 ii and it has no eye detection. ive installed the latest firmware, and its not showing any where in the menus many thanks Rich
It does. It is in the AF area menu. Wide area and Auto area both have human or animal eye detect as shown in this very video. Auto area with customized subject tracking override on the front function button should be what you practice. Forget Dynamic. It's a legacy mode these days and has no eye detect. As the Z9's new system trickles down you'll see the new 3D tracking mode with eye and face detect integrated in new bodies too, but for the 6ii just stick to auto area and practice when to activate and deactivate subject tracking. I have a number of videos about Nikon Z autofocus for the pre Z9 bodies.
I took my new Z6 out for the first time last weekend and love it so far. I know that you use L brackets with your fluid head. Can you recommend a specific one for the Z6? Do they all allow easy battery access?
Hey Andrea, Yes. I use Kirk. Love that company and their products. It has everything you might want in an L-bracket and easy access for battery and ports. bhpho.to/2rwGIqd
Very helpful. Thanks so much. I only shoot video and I'm finding this a great camera for that purpose. I also use fully manual lenses--often 3rd party lenses.( I would love to use older Nikon manual lenses, but the FTZ adapter was designed in a way that prevents me from mounting my Zacuto viewfinder. Bummer. So, there arises a few questions from shooting the Z6. 1. Can you punch in to check focus while filming? I haven't been able to find a way. I have that feature on my X-H1 and find it very useful. 2. What happened to my exposure scale in video? Why did Nikon take that away in movie mode? All I get to determine exposure is this histogram---probably the worst exposure tool for video? Of course I can trigger zebra--but when I do I lose Peaking. I need BOTH zebras and peaking on continually when shooting video. I have that with the X-H1 and X-T3---and the Panasonic GH5. A rep told me it was an issue of processing, but I don't believe that for a second. When you switch to MF all the burden of the camera had from AF is gone in regard to image processing. Why can't a small part of that us activated for running both Zebra and Peaking? This "either/or" thing for focus and exposure may be adequate for stills shooting, but it isn't for video. If there's no way to presently have both operative Nikon needs to correct this in firmware---IMO.
Agreed, I've been using zebras in video and the AFF with face detect to film myself which is amazing for these videos and such. I haven't shot much video out and about (B-roll and such), but I"m testing and finding all you note to be annoying as well. All easy to fix in firmware. The other biggie is the fact that focus peaking doesn't kick in when you grab manual focus to override AF modes. You have to physically switch it to MF. So to zoom in and check focus with peaking I need to flip to MF (the lens switch does work if there is one), then hit a button mapped to 1:1, focus, then hit that button to return to fit view. No matter the mode you are in, the second you rotate the focus ring it should instantly zoom 1:1 on the focus point and peak. (with the ability to turn that off in the menus of course).
I really disagree that the 1:1 should kick in the moment you touch the focus ring. Sure, that should be a possibility, but as a choice, not at something that happens instantly. The reason I dislike that feature for video is because of perspective and framing issues. The minute the 1:1 zoom kicks in you lose the whole image and are left with just a fraction. To me that's compositionally disconcerting. I prefer being able to manually toggle the zoom in and out----I have my Nikon set up like that, and for totally manual shooting it works great. Besides, I seldom use electronic lenses. 95%+ fully manual prime lenses--no zooming. Of course, I don't recommend it, but it's the way i get my most satisfying result. @@HudsonHenryPhoto
@@avarmadillo Yes, of course as a choice. It would be just as awful if you couldn't turn that off. :-) But that choice is so handy for those shooting stills. It is really frustrating it isn't.
In my own experience, I set the non cpu lens focal length and aperture, put the camera in aperture priority mode, and it meters great as I change aperture with the lens aperture ring. If this isn't working, you'll need to Google your particular lens. It certainly works with my 105 2.5 AIS and 400 3.5 AIS even with its 2x teleconverter (although then I need to set 800 7.1 as the non cpu input).
Hudson Henry Photography yes it works very well in Aperture Priority, but in Manual the book says there should be a metering scale and I do not see this scale. Just wondering if I am doing something wrong, since I have had this only 2 weeks. In absence of the scale I just adjust for a good exposure using the viewfinder screen.
Hudson Henry Photography yes with my 24-70/2.8 there is a metering scale. I guess a question to Nikon will be needed. But I cannot see what I am doing wrong.
Yeah, it means that you've set a limit on the ISO and it's hit that limit and without changing the other exposure settings or pushing past that limit, then the camera can't nail its light meter reading in the ISO range it has available. It's just warning you that it can't get the right exposure with the parameters that are set.
Z6 or z7? Since you do portraits, I'd light your subjects so it keeps your iso as low as possible. I'd say stay under 1600 on the Z7 and 6400 on the Z6 to be safe, but you can push one or two stops over those numbers with good noise reduction and sharpening. :)
Yeah, although I'd turn on eye detect and low light AF. I also have an updated video on using the Z camera's AF to capture motion. That video is linked in yesterday's Z50 review video.
I have a dilemma about whether to buy the Z6 or Z7. I am an avid hobbyist who has always shot an D5500 camera sporting the Nikon 18-300 lens when hiking. I realize that is not the best piece of glass but it has been sufficient for most things for me. I love the crop factor and reach of this combo. So I am now moving to full frame mirrorless and I can't judge how well 70 MM will work using 24-70 lens not having used one. I typically shoot a lot of landscape photos. I love the Z6 because of the video aspects. But I like the Z7 for the 45 megapixels should I need to crop. In some of my own personal tests borrowing a Z6 I felt that cropping on it did pretty well. I am not a professional nor will I ever be printing huge prints. I rarely print much as a matter of fact. I typically post photos on social media and build movies of our trips for subsequent viewing and the memory of the journey. Do you have any insight I may have missed? Thanks, Jerry
Hello Hudson, So yes, Santa did come by yesterday with the Z6 kit! So far, I'm overwhelmed by the numerous options and your video provides very useful tips and great advice on how to set it up. The low light performances are truly amazing! This is the first mirrorless camera I use and it will take a little getting used to the way the system works. For a street photographer, there are definite delays in preparing and shooting with this camera. I do have one question: would you recommend getting the 50 mm f1.8 vs. using a Nikkor 50mm f1.4 with the FTZ adapter? Thanks a lot for providing such video! Best,
Great news my friend! I think that totally depends on whether you want to do video. The 1.8S has huge advantages doing stepless, silent, autofocus video tracking. I got one for these videos and I love it for that. For stills I'm just as happy with my 1.8 afs on the FTZ. :)
The one I'm excited about is the 14-24 f4. I hope they knock that out of the park. I also hope someone (voightlander?) makes a really nice 10 or 11mm F4 manual focus lens with a hard stop at infinity for the S mount. Then we've got a milky way machine. ;)
Need some guidance,. Assuming the same subject, is there a difference in how one handles a Z6 vs Z7, as it got more MP, does the user need to use higher shutter speeds to minimize shake, as the higher MP will capture the slightest blurr and magnify it? I am deciding which one to get, currently I use a D800 (36MP), and feel Z6 is a step down just from MP point of view, as I pixel peep. Not a video person, and only use camera on holiday landscape and cityscape. Thank you
Good handholding technique is helpful, but that new 5 axis IBIS more than offsets the change from your D800. :-) A good tripod in low light is your friend too. The low light ISO is better on the Z7 than the D800 too, so you've got that going for you as well if you need to up shutter speed handholding. I wouldn't worry much about that aspect of the change. You'll love the Z7.
Thank you, as I have a Z6 (less than 1 month old) and have option to upgrade to Z7 for some extra $. So not sure what i should do, guidance will help. I only use the camera a few weeks year whilst on Holiday and a few family events.
@@kavkavia5476 I'd say shoot more with the Z6, then go back to the D800 and see if you still enjoy it. Personally, I wound up selling my D850 to get a Z7 after some time with the Z6. :-)
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thank you for the guidance. I have returned the Z6 and hoping they can swap it with the Z7 + $. Even though I have done this, i am still not sure about the decision, as everyone says the Z6 noise performance is better. But I have never taken a photo at high ISO on the D800, (as it was lets say not very good). In your opinion, how does the Z6 compare with Z7 at ISO 6400, and also low light focusing. . i normally do family photos and the odd friend wedding not professionally. Thank you for you time
@@kavkavia5476 They both focus very accurately in low light with the latest firmware. The Z6 is much better at 6400, but the Z7 will clean up at that ISO with some post production noise reduction. The Z6 really won't need that unless you underexpose and boost shadows.
One thing about z6 with ninja v, today l shooting video with atomos, I pushed ” ok” button ( 100% zoom ) and then push record button on the camera, camera and recorder screens started to show color pixels instead of image, l came across turning off the camera, but it had no effect, only the battery removal helped, when l try to do this without recorder l had no problems
I wish that was possible. I'm building a cheat sheet of settings though. I'll release that as a downloadable doc to take on your device or print and laminate. Look for it in an upcoming video where I do a long term review.
Thanks for the video! Very interesting! Take this opportunity to ask you a question about Z cameras and landscape photography ... Unlike my D800E, the Z have the connection for the remote release on the side, in the contact area for the various accessories. The doubt I have is: but in the case of an L-plate (L-bracket) and vertical shoot, how do you use the nikon MC-DC2 or third-party remote control? In Landscaping the L-shaped plate is quite common for attaching to the tripod, as is the use of remote shutter release. Has anyone tried? Andrea
IT will work without sticking out too far with the Kirk L-bracket I use. The truth is that since the advent of Exposure Delay, I rarely take the time to set that up. But it does work for me. You only have the small bit without the 9-pin adapter you have to use with the d800e. It's fine vertical (which I shoot about 70"% of the time) with the Kirk L.
My complete list of gear links is right here. www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks Thanks in advance for using those links. It helps support these videos. Filters are in there too. I use Hoya HD3 UV and CPL and thier Solas IRND filters in 4, 6 and 10 stop densities. Consider getting 82mm versions with step up rings to adapt your smaller thread lenses, so that if you buy an 82mm lens, like the 14-30, you'll be set. :)
Just starting to play with the Z6 Filmmaker’s Kit - still just trying to get the camera to work with the Moza Air 2 - just an FYI - you need to make the following connection: NIKON Z6-->Micro USB to Type-C Adapter-->M3C-Micro Cable-->CAM CTRL port on Air 2. The CAM CTRL port is on the side of quick release plate, n ext to 7.4V OUT (Wasn’t obvious to me) and you have to upgrade the firmware with the Moza Master iPhone app to 04.12 (could not find that app on my MacBook Apple store? But did on my iPhone!?!) It’s a little inconsistent (me or firmware) could use a day troubleshooting with other Z6 Kit Owners before tackling the Ninja (which is coming out with ProRes later anyway...)
Theoretically, the Ninja is light enough to attach to the Moza (otherwise all your gimbal shots won’t be in 4K ProRes (the modern version of non-matching film stock!) but I don’t see how you can do that w/o an assistant... or IRON ARMS!!!
Amen Hallelujah! Finally a professional who explains in detail on how, what and where to setup the Custom Control settings. NONE of these so called pros who review and unbox (which is completely useless for experienced photographers) the Nikon Z series and lenses don't even mention "Custom Control" much less explain the comforts of using these options. Every time I'd begin working on my instructional video for Custom Control I end up babbling. Mahalo Sir for your experience and expertise. Saved, Shared and Replayed.
Just bought a Z6 for street and travel photography, having searched lots of vids yours is one of the best for talking through set up, and its nice to see a good detailed vlog without all the painful theatrics to try and get viewers. I have subscribed and look forward to more of your Vlogs.
Thanks Richard! That means a lot.
here I am. some 1y9m later and Hudson's comments are still relevant...and one of the better videos on the Z camera custom settings to date. One thing !'ll note here for future viewers, is that the user buttons U1,U2 and U3 and the 'My Menu' items are NOT saved when you Save Settings prior to a reset of the camera, should you need to do one. It's annoying to find out after the event. I' hoping a firmware update might fix this, we'll see. Never-the-less, some good tips here. Thank you Hudson.
My Z7 arrived yesterday so your tips should come in handy. I no longer shoot professionally so it’s my replacement for my lead-weight D3/D700/D800 gear. I am 77 and had a nasty summer of 2018 and the lighter weight of my gear is important even when screwing around in New York City and State. Thank you so much.
I hope you love it. I know that sensor well from my D850. It's marvelous.
I have just bought my Z6 3weeks ago, and your video really help me a lot. You’ve got another subscriber! Thanks so much!!!
No worries Rene. Thanks so much for that feedback. How are you liking the camera?
I've been shooting with the Z6 for a couple of months now. This is far the best reference video for setting it up. Picked up the Z7 yesterday. I find turning WRAP 'on' helps with speeding up selecting a focus point say in 'AF-S' mode.
Thanks so much! Yeah, I've tried that, but I find just hitting the center of the joystick to get the middle works better for my style. We're all different. :-)
Thanks Hudson ! Really enjoyed this and the other two videos on the Z series from Nikon. I need to go back and work thru these with my camera for setup. While I also watched another contributor to this space go through details of the camera, I really appreciate the personal touch of having you in the image talking as well as being able to share the screen with menus or you interacting with the physical parts of the camera. This is an excellent overview and I highly recommend it to someone looking for excellent advice on setting up the Z series. Bravo!
Thanks Chris! That feedback means a lot.
Thanks very much.
For me is the assignment of My-Menu to the Video Rec-Button very helpful. So, I can easily access a lot of other settings.
Try it.. :-)
I just got my z6 and found this tutorial very helpful in customizing the i-menu and buttons. I've been shooting the D750 for a while so I was generally familiar with the menu options but there are definitely some big differences between the interface and customization options with the two cameras so thanks for helping me figure some of it out!
Hi Hudson, Thanks for all of your excellent videos! I wanted to tell you that I ordered an L-Bracket for my Z7 from Kirk Enterprises based on your recommendation and you are right, they are fantastic people. I must have changed my mind 3 times on my order and sent items to and fro and they could not have been any nicer. They are terrific people to deal with. Thanks again, best to you, Rick
So great to hear! Yeah, love the Kirk folks!
Super great setup video. Hudson is a natural and all of his videos are top notch. I was able to get my Z7 set up in no time. Much more to deal with than my D810. Thanks Hudson.
So appreciate that feedback Bennett!
Best custom setting set up video I have found !!
Great video. I hope you continue to share with us what you learn while using the Z6.
I’m a landscape photographer (who dabbles in film) and rightly or wrongly sold my d810 for a z6. The plan is to fully adopt the mirrorless system, get used to it with the z6 and then get a better body for landscapes down the line (z8 maybe). Great video, very informative, you’ve gained a subscriber!
Thanks Jonny! I think that's a good move. You may find you love it, particularly since you dabble with film. ;-) It's beats the doors off the d810 in low light, live view, and video.
I just got my Z7 - my jump to mirror less finally and your tutorial made it easy so concise and informative thank you so much
100.000 thanks for your time ! Have a Z6 for months and I didn't use it yet...
I loved hearing you say Zed 6, like most of my fellow Canadians. Nice video, will watch the others. Having a hard time choosing between the Z6 and Z7. One day I lean that way and next day the other way. Eventually I will figure it out.
Really good setup for the Z6. I just bought one and needed a good overview of its features (and flaws). You have another subscriber!
Thanks Steve!
An excellent video on the Z System Customization, Hudson! As a landscape and product photographer, I recently moved from the nice Fuji X-System, to this Z7, primarily because I wanted to get even more sharpness/detail in my large landscape prints/panoramas. I find the Z7 to be amazing in its build quality, ergonomics, customizability, and of course, image quality with the superb Nikkor S lenses! (I also look forward to testing the Laowa 100 f/2.8 Ultra Macro on it. Would love to see an image comparision betwee it and an eventual Micro-Nikkor S 105 f/2.8! Thanks for your always educational and inspirational videos! BTW, your landscape images are superb!
Excellent video, Henry!! Subscribing wasn't a hard decision.
I just wanted to clarify something about card formatting. Formatting the card using the camera's menu system *is* the best way to ensure compatibility and definitely wipes "protected" files, but it doesn't "refresh" the card.
Card formatting on cameras only deletes the file location index, it doesn't "zero" the storage bits, so your blurb about lost bits getting cleaned up, etc, is technically untrue. All those files are still there, just not visible to most operating systems. Using flash recovery software should locate all those pictures pretty easily. As a rule, this is why you would *not* rely on a camera system format to wipe cards before selling those old cards second-hand. For that, use a full format (not a quick format) on a PC/Mac.
Hey there, thanks! First name is Hudson, but no big deal.
What I mean is that you refresh cards for the camera (I meant re-optimize them) which results in less problems with the cards sprouting errors when used after multiple deletions on your computer vs formatting in camera after use. I didn't think i was advocating scrubbing them in any way. Can't remember ever selling a card, but I'd be first inclined to put a drill bit through them to be sure about any sensitive info being recovered.
What an excellent overview of all the settings. I'm receiving my Z6 tomorrow and will be using your video as a basis to learn the ins and outs of it. I've watched some of your other Z6 videos already, and I'm looking forward to more content as you continue to shoot with it. Thanks for the in-depth tutorial.
Really useful tips, just got my Z6 and its great to get advice on how to set it up.
So glad to hear that.
Very useful. Thank you for putting this up. I used this extensively in my initial set up on my new Z7.
Nice! So glad it helped.
Just got a Z6 and am setting up the menus. I noticed the 'Vibration Reduction' menu selection is grayed out when using my FX lenses with a FTZ adapter even with the lens VR setting turned on. Is this normal? Is VR working even if the menu is grayed in both the menu list and on the 'i' button?
I just used my Z 6 to photograph a gymnastics meet and it did pretty good. Does it focus as fast as my D500 no but I will say this the images at ISO 8000 look much better then what the D500 can do. I did find it would keep up pretty good on the vault with them running towards me. But I did switch back to my D500 for the beam and floor routines. I used the high extended fps setting and kind of annoying not seeing the action like a DSLR but on the bars I just kept the camera pointed at the subject and hoped for the best and it did pretty good. Thank you for all your work you put into your reviews.
Great report and fantastic to hear. The high ISO images are just stupendous aren't they?
This was invaluable as is your v3 firmware update. Thank you!
Thanks! I've just picked up my Z 7 kit and I've been re-watching and following along.
Just got a new Z7 and appreciated the insight.
excellent walk-thru hudson. i’ve got my z7 about 90% configured to my liking, but you shared some great tips for the remaining 10%...very helpful. quick q: not sure if this is a bug or just a missing feature. one of my i-menu options i’ve set to ISO. however, the i-menu display does not distinguish between auto-ISO and manual-ISO. i know you can check that on the top OLED screen, but it seems like nikon could easily and helpfully display an asterisk on the i-menu to let you immediately check the status of your ISO setting. am i missing something? thanks again very much for your clear, crisp, no-nonsense video.
I tend to free that menu slot up since there is a dedicated iso button up top in the body. Hold that top button and rotate the back dial to change the iso number and the front dial to turn auto on and off. The top lcd panel will give you a -A in auto mode so you can tell. For example 64-A for auto. Hope that helps. Thanks for the kind words!
Hudson Henry Photography yep, yep, you’re right..fair point..i’m just being lazy. thanks for the reply.
Excellent 👍. Thank you so much. I just bought the Z6 with the 50 mm 1.8 lens.
I have that lens too. It rocks!
Thank you for taking the time to put this together. It is a sanity saver!!
Many thanks, a very helpful tutorial, had me diving into features and menu systems I have sort of retreated away from with my hands out in front of me and coming up with a more usable camera. Love the magnification zoom on the OK button, really helpful and nice to break away from being a 100% autofocus shoooter
Hudson, as I have settled more into the use of my camera under different situations (day, night in particular) I came back to your helpful video. What is the name of the smartphone control app you mention at 9 minute 30secs. Many thanks
Many thanks. Vert helpful. I use your clip video as guide lines.
I just bought the Z6, thank you for the great tutorial!
Thanks so much for this. My Z6 should be with me this week and, coming from an analogue-controlled Fuji environment, this video will help me tremendously when I set the camera up.
I hope you really enjoy the camera. I'm still loving mine.
Thank you for your content. Your channel is a great source of useful information.
Deeply appreciative for that lesson - THANK YOU!
Thanks for a very informative video. It has sped up my setting time considerable. I do have one question : I'm a wildlife photographer and for several years have used a D500. On this I was able to programme three separate buttons for autofocus operation. I was able to apply different modes to each one. Such as single point, group and wide mode. This meant I could instantly select a focus mode just by using my thumb or different finger. Although I can program different command buttons for focus activation on my Z6 it appears I cannot assign various focus modes and need to use a selector dial. Can you confirm this is the case and could you say weather the Z9 does allow for this ?
The best tutorial by far
After two years of usage and loving my Z6 I just learned how to use it even more efficient. Thanks for sharing your settings, I definitely will try them out.
One question: I don't understand how to use the BKT on FN Button. If I program it there, it simply doesn't do anything. Makes no difference if I press it or not. What am I doing wrong?
Definitely very helpful. I will watch it again with camera in hand. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for such a solid walk through and detailed review. Appreciate it.
No problem. Thanks for that feedback.
Thank you for this! I got my Z6 body this week and this really helped me wade through the menu and get some things set up. I'm moving up from a D610 so it's a bit of a learning curve, but I'm feeling better about it. I don't get how to set up the eye detection focus they are going on about, so I'll need to spend some time researching that. Once I figure that out, I think it will basically be the perfect camera (for me).
This is pure gold!
Thanks a lot for your effort.
Very helpful video. How do you setup the viewfinder to show icons in the black border on the left, bottom, and right of the potential picture? Black borders appear only on the bottom and top of my viewfinder. The DISP button does not present this option.
Thank you Hudson. Excellent help video. Just bought the V6....and this was a great help. Greeting from the `UK..
Not sure where I have heard this from a few people - but one thing that is confusing on this camera (I own the Z6) - AC power source (or external power) while the camera is turned on. It appears from the manual that I need the EH-5c as well as the "fake battery insert" (EP-5B). But the EH-5C I cannot locate. It also appears that this is the only way to power the camera while actually using the camera via AC. I thought I heard yourself and another photography expert I have followed suggest there is a USB solution to this on the Z6, but it appears to only charge via USB when the camera is off. Curious if I have missed something! Love your videos. Could watch all day!
So - I will add my own reply. My favorite dealer has recommended a combination of Case Relay power and an adapter / battery (fitting into camera) that is compatible with the EN-EL15 cameras from Nikon. I have an email into the manufacturer website (Tether Tools) - really curious to make sure this is a viable solution. Looks like Nikon has not shipped the proper power supply for this (with the proprietary connectors to fit the battery insert). There are a few available used (Nikon variety) for an arm + leg. I'll repose my experience.
Yes, sorry I've been away on the Baja Trip and am just catching up. You'll need the Case Relay or Tether Tools dummy battery to charge. I have the Tether tools version and have tested it. It works great. I wish you could power it while charging via USB, but I think it's a matter of voltage regulation from far too many potential different sources.
God settings sir
Nice video on setting up the Nikon Z 6. Just bought one so learned a lot from your video. Just have to ask tho, are you an ex missile launch officer, an old SAC warrior? It’s kind of an exclusive club!
very good info always a pleasure thank you.
Great video! I need some help! I use a z50 and I noticed the brightness in the EVF and screen only reflect the brightness of the actual photo under Manual mode not A or S modes.(I have d8 set to apply to live view) The brightness in the EVF and screen doesn't change when I change the shutter speed or aperture but it does change when I adjust the exposure. The photos can come out really dark when they look bright in the EVF and Screen. I was able to preview the brightness of the actual photos when I set the fn1 button to 'depth of field preview' as shown in your video but I think I shouldn't need to do that to preview the brightness/exposure since that's supposed to be a benefit of an EVF? Am I doing anything wrong?
In A and S modes I find that a huge help as compared with DSLRs because it keeps a nice bright easy to see view to organize composition and focus. You shouldn't have dark images result in auto mode unless you've dialed in exposure compensation, exceeded your max auto iso setting, or left your iso in manual and exceeded your exposure capability with aperture and shutter speed. My advice would be to use auto iso in the handheld modes (A or S) with a max limit set where you feel comfortable with the noise results and keep an eye on your ISO and exposure compensation readings while shooting. Look at results a bit with the RGB histogram activated (what you should really be shooting for) to see if you want to mess with exposure compensation at all and enjoy that nice, bright, easy to see view while composing and focusing in the auto /handheld modes. When you get on a tripod, go manual and turn off auto iso and you'll see every change you make live, but still trust in the histogram review, not the live view. :)
@@HudsonHenryPhoto I appreciate all the great suggestions! I did leave ISO at one level and I thought I should see the image dim down as I increase the shutter speed at S mode which is how my Canon m6 markii works. Sounds like that's not the case with z50? I was able to preview the exposure when pressing the 'preview depth of field' butto though.
I'm abit confused. I've just got my z6. I've just fitted an old manual only lens nikon 50mm 1.2. When I change apature in stills mode I can see live the dof. But listening to your video you say this isn't the case and you have to switch to video mode to see the live dof. Am I getting mixed up or was this changed in second firmware?
I could not fine MY MENU on my Z6 to follow along on that whole segment. Does a Z6 have a MY Menu in the Menu group?
Yep, it's in exactly the same spot actually. You should check out the new video from yesterday on the Z6ii. There are a few settings that are not there on the Z6, but some of my updated thoughts, like the U1-U3 settings are very much an update from this video that will be just as applicable for you. The My menu is the bottom tab on the Z6. Scroll left and down and you'll hit it. You have to add items to it. I go over that really well in the new video from yesterday on setting up the Z6ii and it's the same.
Because I'm a hybrid shooter mainly I set the shutter button to record in movie mode so I'm back button focusing in both movie and stills - my mind doesn't get scrambled then.
That makes perfect sense. You'll love the video ability in low light.
Is it possible to shoot stills throughout video recording? Using the release button
@@mulder90 I don't think so
@@mulder90 Yes you can, but it's limited to 8MP jpegs
@@mulder90 You totally can! It's a great little feature.
Thanks, just got my Z6 today!
i am confused plz suggest z6 or a7iii who is best in photography? plz plz..
Dumping my Huge Olympus kit
and just bought Both the Z6 with Atomos Ninja V & also the Z7
Im super excited for the Prores RAW so that's why I bought the Z6
And as a product photographer, I had to get the Z7 for it megapixels
I'm hoping that NIKON will hold true to their word and come out with many Firmware Updates for a couple years
for these cameras before they come out will next gen "Z" bodies that would hurt ..
Looking forward to more of your NIKON "Z" tutorials
regards, Rick
Love it Hudson.
Hello Henry. Thank you for the video but on my Nikon Z7 Autofocus trackin in video mode seems not to work if I want to film my self and I do not have an operator filming me. Can you explain how to set the camera to make it work? thanks a lot.
I am close to purchasing a Z6... but I've read some reviews that say they either can't use flash or can't activate the flash's auto assist beam for pinpoint sharpness for lowlight flash photography usage. Could you do a video for flash photography for the Z6 please? Would be a great help! Thanks, Eric
Hello there. I have Nikon Z6 and when I try to shoot multiple exposure, the camera take only one shoot and then stops and just wait to press the shutter button to continue capturing. I can't make it to take series of shots and I can't tell why. Maybe some setting forbid multiple exposure mode or it's a bug in software?
Thanks, nice job! Where is the link for the kirk L-bracket?
I had the new Z6 for a couple of weeks and I'm having an annoying message that stops the camera. it said, " shutter release disable, recharge your battery" and this occurs also with a brand new fully charged battery. this happened while I was recording a video, reviewing photos or playing a video on the camera. to fix it, I had to shut off the camera and remove the battery. This clears the problem, but it happens too frequently that I'm thinking is a malfunction, shud I send the camera to the warranty?
Thanks man! new to Nikon, this helped a lot.
Does the z6 or z7 have the scene and effects selector control as i have on the D7100.
Very useful walkthrough of the logic to your control setup. Thanks
Hey Hudson
I just went through your set up and I am having trouble getting the FN2 button to accept the bracketing mode for U1. My save/load setting is grayed out. I checked the Controls Custom control assignment set up and my FN2 button is set to bracketing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Loving your videos.
A big one is that you need to be in A, M, S or P mode to program in a U mode. You can't already be in U1 or U2 when you set it as the mode setting is a critical piece of what's being locked in. That seems the most likely culprit. You set it up how you wnat, (for example, in A mode, bracketing on f2, etc..). and then save it as U2. When you flip to U2 it will then be in A mode.
@13:34 focus ring zoom
Is there any way to lock the focus on the Z6? I use the back focus button, & my fat thumb keeps moving the joystick. I shoot motorsports so I don't have time to readjust all the the time.
It's a great question and another thing I'd like to see them add. Focus point lock, backlit buttons, two button format and reset, DOF preview lock, and AF tracking improvement. That's my list, but I still love the cameras.
Thx for the video, i do have a question. Lets say i want to make an U1 setting with aperture prriority as my starting point. I turn the PASM dial to A and then set all my settings and save it to U1. After I have done this i stay in A and adjust some more settings. My question: will these adjustments be 'saved' on the A mode in the PASM dial when I swith to lets say M mode or turn off the camera? OR will the A mode (as well as P, M and S) return to some default position once you turn off the camera or change to an other mode on the PASM dial? if the settings are saved I can effectively use the M and A mode (i always shoot aperture priority and manual exposure) as a U4 and U5 mode. The only difference being with the U1 - U3 that if i change settings these will be saved as in U1 - U3 the changes will ONLY be saved if you choose that in the menu. Id love to hear from you, thank you in advance!
Yep, exactly. The PASM modes do stay sticky. If you have the camera at base ISO 250 f8 in daylight white balance in M mode with manual focus and then flip to U3 (which for me is S mode with 1/1000 shutter in auto area AF-C and auto ISO, and auto WB), bam you're ready for action. Action ends, flip back to M mode and you're still at 250 f8 in manual focus with daylight and base ISO. Video mode is also sticky in PASM, so if you were shooting video at 50 F16 and tungsten, then flipped the switch to stills it will remember the last used still PASM settings (and vice versa) It's very handy. My one complaint is that it doesn't include drive mode. For me to flip from Landscape to Action, I have to flip to U3 and also switch drive mode from single frame to hi speed multi-frame capture... No idea why they don't include drive mode in the memory.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thank you for your quick reply, great to hear that! Now i just need to sell some fuji gear and get me a Z6 :).... Odd indeed that drive mode is not saved, though it is not that important for me as i always have my fuji in 4fps continuous, if i want to single shot my pictures i just quick press the button once (called shutterbutton mashing I believe). I am also looking for a XQD card. Which brand would you recommend for best price/performace/durability ratio?
I've got links to all my recommended gear at www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks. I'd really urge you to go cfexpress B. It's the future and reverse compatible. I've got ProGrade cards linked there. :)
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Havent thought about CF express cards yet, will check it out, thank you!
great tut, appreciated!
is there a way you could share your settings for a convenient export/import
Just setting up my Z6 and found your vid very helpful. One question I have that you might know is I use delayed shutter/self timer a lot on my D850 and on that camera it’s on the dial with the shooting modes. On the Z6 it’s on the back bottom right button and you have to cycle through that menu to turn it on. Haven’t been able to figure out how map it for quick activation to say the fn1 button. Any thoughts or info about this? Had the camera for a few hours so if you don’t know then I’ll dig further into the manual....
if you are putting yourself in the frame and really need the time/multiple frames of self timer, then I don't think there's a way to map that onto the function buttons. However, you might be better served by Exposure Delay mode which does the same thing essentially for shorter delays and a single frame. I use that all the time instead of a cable release. On the DSLRs it even lifts the mirror before the delay starts to avoid that vibration. That you can map to the Function buttons if you look down the list. :-)
Great video!! It is possible to show me your settings for the U-function buttons!? Greetings from Germany.
Hi and Merry Christmas! So far i love the feel and output on my z6. And with the kit 24-70 AF is quite good. Do you think firmware update will make the AF faster with the adapter? Would have been nice to use the Z6 with the N 200-500 in low light wildlife shooting. Love my D500 but not with high ISO. 🇳🇴
I really think the AF is never going to be close to the D500. We'll have to wait for future generations of Z cameras to see that happen. :-(
I wish I could add an extra step to formatting the card. I preferred the two button method on D800 thru D850. It's more critical now that there is only one card. I actually deleted 15 minutes of shots recently because I glanced at the preview images and forgot there were two assignments on the card. Adding more steps for reformat would help at least a little.
I hear ya, but I really want the 2 button reset back to simplify in my mind. I don't want to have to dive into my menu, find format, choose ok, and then confirm. I've never ever used a 2nd card for backup. It was always video and overflow, so i really don't get the concern about the 2nd slot, particularly with the robust build of XQDs, but that's me. :-)
Thank you for sharing
Great info video. i dont see the exposure meter on video mode any idea how i can adjust my exposure ?
It's a great question. Video guys tend to do it by activating zebra stripes on the overexposed areas and using the histogram display view in conjunction to set exposure. The display button cycles through to that. It works quite well to get the exposure to the edge of clipping where you want it. .
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thanks so much for replying. i'm just getting started with videos so i prefer the usual meter scale. It would be great if you can point me to a resource or any ideas on using this zebra and exposure method
@@101010328 I'll do a video soon, but for now just know that when you activate the Zebras you'll see any highlights that are blown as winky moving zebra stripes on the live view. Press display while looking at the video till you see the little histogram in the bottom right corner and use the exposure controls to move the image data as far to the right (hgihlights) as you can without getting zebra stripes. If you are going to move the camera, then pan around to be sure no move will blow out important highlight details and if not, then you are set.
Thank you for this wonderful tutorial. You talked about phone software to control timelapse. Could you tell me how to find this software? I thought you said the name was QDSLR but I can't find that in the app store.
Sure, it's called qDslrDashboard: dslrdashboard.info/downloads/
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thank you so much for the quick reply. I'll check it out. I got my Z6 today and your tutorial was so helpful in setting up my camera. Now, off to test it out!!
Almost forgot. When you go to connect to qdslr via wifi connecting to your camera, you may need to disable mobile data on your phone. Try that if you have trouble.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thank you for the additional info.
How do you set up the back button focus for the af-on? You kinda skipped over that part :(
Check out 3:16 on...
Hi Henry, first and foremost thank you very much for your comparison video and all the information! Yet I have one unanswered question in mind, which was neither answered in your video nor through help of google search. Due to the smaller resolution and identical sensor size, the ISO performance of the Z6 is always described as slightly less noisy in comparison to the Z7. Therefore I suppose for low light and night shots I should rather get myself a Z6? Yet I am asking myself, what if you use the Z7 with the 24 MP setting instead of the 45 MP. Does this mean it would show similar ISO / low light performance compared to the Z6? Or would the Z7 24 MP images nonetheless be recorded in 45 MP first and just be downscaled to 24 MP? I would appreciate very much if you know the answer! Cheers Michael
Hey Michael, first name is Hudson, but no big deal. :) the problem is that higher resolution sensors pack more megapixels into the same size sensor. By switching to 24MP the camera merely turns off the outer portion of the sensor (like cropping in post) it doesn't make the pixels on the sensor less densely arrayed and noisey. The question remains, if you shoot at 46MP, then edit and down sample low light images to 24MP how do they compare. My take so far having both cameras is that the Z6 is still about a stop cleaner. 12800 looks like 6400 on the Z7 downrezzed to match. They're both very good. If you do big prints and crop a lot, get the 7. If low light, action (for the bigger relative buffer} and / or video (no line skipping) are more your jam, get the 6. :)
Can I swap the controls of shutter speed and aperture.. I want shutter speed to front and aperture control at back on z6
Yep. Go into Custom Settings F4 "change Main/Sub" That switches them.
You mentioned shooting a still when recording video? Is it possible? In raw? Thanks for a nice video!
Yes and no. You can record stills, but only 8MP jpegs
Hi am hoping you can help, I've just purchased a z 6 ii and it has no eye detection. ive installed the latest firmware, and its not showing any where in the menus many thanks Rich
It does. It is in the AF area menu. Wide area and Auto area both have human or animal eye detect as shown in this very video. Auto area with customized subject tracking override on the front function button should be what you practice. Forget Dynamic. It's a legacy mode these days and has no eye detect. As the Z9's new system trickles down you'll see the new 3D tracking mode with eye and face detect integrated in new bodies too, but for the 6ii just stick to auto area and practice when to activate and deactivate subject tracking. I have a number of videos about Nikon Z autofocus for the pre Z9 bodies.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto A big thank, you I've tried and found it now I can practise.once again thank you for taking the time to read and reply.
I took my new Z6 out for the first time last weekend and love it so far. I know that you use L brackets with your fluid head. Can you recommend a specific one for the Z6? Do they all allow easy battery access?
Hey Andrea, Yes. I use Kirk. Love that company and their products. It has everything you might want in an L-bracket and easy access for battery and ports. bhpho.to/2rwGIqd
Thank you🙏
Very helpful. Thanks so much. I only shoot video and I'm finding this a great camera for that purpose. I also use fully manual lenses--often 3rd party lenses.( I would love to use older Nikon manual lenses, but the FTZ adapter was designed in a way that prevents me from mounting my Zacuto viewfinder. Bummer.
So, there arises a few questions from shooting the Z6.
1. Can you punch in to check focus while filming? I haven't been able to find a way. I have that feature on my X-H1 and find it very useful.
2. What happened to my exposure scale in video? Why did Nikon take that away in movie mode?
All I get to determine exposure is this histogram---probably the worst exposure tool for video?
Of course I can trigger zebra--but when I do I lose Peaking. I need BOTH zebras and peaking on continually when shooting video. I have that with the X-H1 and X-T3---and the Panasonic GH5. A rep told me it was an issue of processing, but I don't believe that for a second. When you switch to MF all the burden of the camera had from AF is gone in regard to image processing. Why can't a small part of that us activated for running both Zebra and Peaking?
This "either/or" thing for focus and exposure may be adequate for stills shooting, but it isn't for video. If there's no way to presently have both operative Nikon needs to correct this in firmware---IMO.
Agreed, I've been using zebras in video and the AFF with face detect to film myself which is amazing for these videos and such. I haven't shot much video out and about (B-roll and such), but I"m testing and finding all you note to be annoying as well. All easy to fix in firmware. The other biggie is the fact that focus peaking doesn't kick in when you grab manual focus to override AF modes. You have to physically switch it to MF. So to zoom in and check focus with peaking I need to flip to MF (the lens switch does work if there is one), then hit a button mapped to 1:1, focus, then hit that button to return to fit view. No matter the mode you are in, the second you rotate the focus ring it should instantly zoom 1:1 on the focus point and peak. (with the ability to turn that off in the menus of course).
I really disagree that the 1:1 should kick in the moment you touch the focus ring. Sure, that should be a possibility, but as a choice, not at something that happens instantly.
The reason I dislike that feature for video is because of perspective and framing issues. The minute the 1:1 zoom kicks in you lose the whole image and are left with just a fraction. To me that's compositionally disconcerting.
I prefer being able to manually toggle the zoom in and out----I have my Nikon set up like that, and for totally manual shooting it works great.
Besides, I seldom use electronic lenses. 95%+ fully manual prime lenses--no zooming.
Of course, I don't recommend it, but it's the way i get my most satisfying result.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto
@@avarmadillo Yes, of course as a choice. It would be just as awful if you couldn't turn that off. :-) But that choice is so handy for those shooting stills. It is really frustrating it isn't.
How do you manually meter non CPU lenses? I do not see a meter scale nor the f stop even though I have listed the lens.
In my own experience, I set the non cpu lens focal length and aperture, put the camera in aperture priority mode, and it meters great as I change aperture with the lens aperture ring. If this isn't working, you'll need to Google your particular lens. It certainly works with my 105 2.5 AIS and 400 3.5 AIS even with its 2x teleconverter (although then I need to set 800 7.1 as the non cpu input).
Hudson Henry Photography yes it works very well in Aperture Priority, but in Manual the book says there should be a metering scale and I do not see this scale. Just wondering if I am doing something wrong, since I have had this only 2 weeks. In absence of the scale I just adjust for a good exposure using the viewfinder screen.
Hmmmm. Yeah it should have that scale in M mode. Does it with your more modern AF glass in M Mode? If not, there must be a display option turned off.
Hudson Henry Photography yes with my 24-70/2.8 there is a metering scale. I guess a question to Nikon will be needed. But I cannot see what I am doing wrong.
Awesome video! Can you tell me why my auto ISO number turns red?
Yeah, it means that you've set a limit on the ISO and it's hit that limit and without changing the other exposure settings or pushing past that limit, then the camera can't nail its light meter reading in the ISO range it has available. It's just warning you that it can't get the right exposure with the parameters that are set.
Thank you!!
How high of a ISO would you recommend setting without getting noise? I do portraits...
Z6 or z7? Since you do portraits, I'd light your subjects so it keeps your iso as low as possible. I'd say stay under 1600 on the Z7 and 6400 on the Z6 to be safe, but you can push one or two stops over those numbers with good noise reduction and sharpening. :)
Are your settings still the same today after the various firmware updates?
Yeah, although I'd turn on eye detect and low light AF. I also have an updated video on using the Z camera's AF to capture motion. That video is linked in yesterday's Z50 review video.
Awesome, thanks!! I'll check out that linked video.
I have a dilemma about whether to buy the Z6 or Z7. I am an avid hobbyist who has always shot an D5500 camera sporting the Nikon 18-300 lens when hiking. I realize that is not the best piece of glass but it has been sufficient for most things for me. I love the crop factor and reach of this combo. So I am now moving to full frame mirrorless and I can't judge how well 70 MM will work using 24-70 lens not having used one. I typically shoot a lot of landscape photos. I love the Z6 because of the video aspects. But I like the Z7 for the 45 megapixels should I need to crop. In some of my own personal tests borrowing a Z6 I felt that cropping on it did pretty well. I am not a professional nor will I ever be printing huge prints. I rarely print much as a matter of fact. I typically post photos on social media and build movies of our trips for subsequent viewing and the memory of the journey. Do you have any insight I may have missed? Thanks, Jerry
Hello Hudson,
So yes, Santa did come by yesterday with the Z6 kit! So far, I'm overwhelmed by the numerous options and your video provides very useful tips and great advice on how to set it up. The low light performances are truly amazing! This is the first mirrorless camera I use and it will take a little getting used to the way the system works. For a street photographer, there are definite delays in preparing and shooting with this camera.
I do have one question: would you recommend getting the 50 mm f1.8 vs. using a Nikkor 50mm f1.4 with the FTZ adapter?
Thanks a lot for providing such video! Best,
Great news my friend! I think that totally depends on whether you want to do video. The 1.8S has huge advantages doing stepless, silent, autofocus video tracking. I got one for these videos and I love it for that. For stills I'm just as happy with my 1.8 afs on the FTZ. :)
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thank you for your prompt reply. Video is not a priority at all so I'll start by using the glass I have.
The one I'm excited about is the 14-24 f4. I hope they knock that out of the park. I also hope someone (voightlander?) makes a really nice 10 or 11mm F4 manual focus lens with a hard stop at infinity for the S mount. Then we've got a milky way machine. ;)
Very helpful tips! Thanks.
Need some guidance,.
Assuming the same subject, is there a difference in how one handles a Z6 vs Z7, as it got more MP, does the user need to use higher shutter speeds to minimize shake, as the higher MP will capture the slightest blurr and magnify it?
I am deciding which one to get, currently I use a D800 (36MP), and feel Z6 is a step down just from MP point of view, as I pixel peep.
Not a video person, and only use camera on holiday landscape and cityscape.
Thank you
Good handholding technique is helpful, but that new 5 axis IBIS more than offsets the change from your D800. :-) A good tripod in low light is your friend too. The low light ISO is better on the Z7 than the D800 too, so you've got that going for you as well if you need to up shutter speed handholding. I wouldn't worry much about that aspect of the change. You'll love the Z7.
Thank you, as I have a Z6 (less than 1 month old) and have option to upgrade to Z7 for some extra $. So not sure what i should do, guidance will help. I only use the camera a few weeks year whilst on Holiday and a few family events.
@@kavkavia5476 I'd say shoot more with the Z6, then go back to the D800 and see if you still enjoy it. Personally, I wound up selling my D850 to get a Z7 after some time with the Z6. :-)
@@HudsonHenryPhoto
Thank you for the guidance.
I have returned the Z6 and hoping they can swap it with the Z7 + $.
Even though I have done this, i am still not sure about the decision, as everyone says the Z6 noise performance is better. But I have never taken a photo at high ISO on the D800, (as it was lets say not very good). In your opinion, how does the Z6 compare with Z7 at ISO 6400, and also low light focusing. . i normally do family photos and the odd friend wedding not professionally. Thank you for you time
@@kavkavia5476 They both focus very accurately in low light with the latest firmware. The Z6 is much better at 6400, but the Z7 will clean up at that ISO with some post production noise reduction. The Z6 really won't need that unless you underexpose and boost shadows.
One thing about z6 with ninja v, today l shooting video with atomos, I pushed ” ok” button ( 100% zoom ) and then push record button on the camera, camera and recorder screens started to show color pixels instead of image, l came across turning off the camera, but it had no effect, only the battery removal helped, when l try to do this without recorder l had no problems
Hmmm I haven't encountered that. I'd hit up Atomos support if it keeps happening.
Do you have a “User settings” file on your website so we can download them to our cameras?
I wish that was possible. I'm building a cheat sheet of settings though. I'll release that as a downloadable doc to take on your device or print and laminate. Look for it in an upcoming video where I do a long term review.
Hudson Henry Photography oh I thought it was possible as of 2.0 to save the U1,U2,U3 to a file and load it on another camera?
Thanks dude, learned lots !
Awesome! So glad to hear it.
What camera hand grip do you recommend for the Z6?
hand grip?
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Yes. Camera hand grip is what they call it. You know neck strap. Then we have the one for the hand,LOL
Thanks for the video! Very interesting!
Take this opportunity to ask you a question about Z cameras and landscape photography ...
Unlike my D800E, the Z have the connection for the remote release on the side, in the contact area for the various accessories. The doubt I have is: but in the case of an L-plate (L-bracket) and vertical shoot, how do you use the nikon MC-DC2 or third-party remote control? In Landscaping the L-shaped plate is quite common for attaching to the tripod, as is the use of remote shutter release.
Has anyone tried?
Andrea
IT will work without sticking out too far with the Kirk L-bracket I use. The truth is that since the advent of Exposure Delay, I rarely take the time to set that up. But it does work for me. You only have the small bit without the 9-pin adapter you have to use with the d800e. It's fine vertical (which I shoot about 70"% of the time) with the Kirk L.
What filters do you suggest for the Z6? Specifically, CP, ND, and UV (if used at all).
My complete list of gear links is right here. www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks Thanks in advance for using those links. It helps support these videos.
Filters are in there too. I use Hoya HD3 UV and CPL and thier Solas IRND filters in 4, 6 and 10 stop densities. Consider getting 82mm versions with step up rings to adapt your smaller thread lenses, so that if you buy an 82mm lens, like the 14-30, you'll be set. :)
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thanks! Very helpful.
is the video came out of focus shift?
Just starting to play with the Z6 Filmmaker’s Kit - still just trying to get the camera to work with the Moza Air 2 - just an FYI - you need to make the following connection:
NIKON Z6-->Micro USB to Type-C Adapter-->M3C-Micro Cable-->CAM CTRL port on Air 2. The CAM CTRL port is on the side of quick release plate, n ext to 7.4V OUT
(Wasn’t obvious to me) and you have to upgrade the firmware with the Moza Master iPhone app to 04.12 (could not find that app on my MacBook Apple store? But did on my iPhone!?!)
It’s a little inconsistent (me or firmware) could use a day troubleshooting with other Z6 Kit Owners before tackling the Ninja (which is coming out with ProRes later anyway...)
Interesting. I don't have the Moza, but I do have the Ninja. It has a learning curve, but it's fabulous.
Theoretically, the Ninja is light enough to attach to the Moza (otherwise all your gimbal shots won’t be in 4K ProRes (the modern version of non-matching film stock!) but I don’t see how you can do that w/o an assistant... or IRON ARMS!!!