If you have any space-saving workshop tips, share them in the comments below! I'm always looking for new ways to optimize my small shop and improve my workflow.
Hi Mason, I've mentioned on another of your videos that you could give your table saw fence more capacity by flipping the orientation of the router table. I also enlarged the router table fence clamp guide slots at one end of each slot by drilling over-sized holes at those ends so that I could easily pull the fence from the top and not have to remove the bolts from below.
@@palbergwerx.comcreativedir1338 Do you mean the table saw gets more capacity because the router table fence won't be in the way? Saves you from having to remove the router table fence if you need more ripping capacity for the table saw?
You mentioned the hassle with removing or reinstalling the Bosch fence. The carriage bolts Bosch provides are unnecessarily long so I went to Lowe's and bought a pair of 5/16" x 1" carriage bolts, instead, so I don't spend all afternoon unscrewing the tightening nob. Same for the featherboard bolts, switching to 5/16" x 1-1/4" carriage bolts. And too much emphasis on the thickness of the washers. Any normal thin 5/16" washers will do fine. The job was a cinch. Thanks for taking time to record what you did.
This video inspired me to do the same with my Craftsman router table (exact same dimensions) and my Ridgid 3650 tablesaw. Thx so much, like you said this is a real game changer!
Great video! I re-used 4 of the black bolts, lock washer and nut from the Bosch router table for the side you don’t have to drill out holes for. On the side where holes are made I used carriage bolts. The fence still slides all the way.
Just watched your video and was very impressed with your excitement as your RA1181 began to take shape in your table saw. I ordered a RA1181 today to install in my table saw can't wait till I get it done. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching and the kind words, Jim! I’ve used it a handful of times so far and I wouldn’t change anything about my installation at this point. Good luck with your install!
I Did The Same Upgrade On My 4520 Fits Like A Glove. The Only Thing I Added Were Some Braces Made From Metal Conduit Mounted To Bottom Of Router Table And Then To The Legs Of The Table Saw. I Was A Little Worried About The Extra Weight On The Table Saw Guide Rails. And A Bonus Was I Could Store My Table Saw Sled On These Braces Also.
Oh yeah, I was hopefully it would work out, but I had no idea it'd be an hour or two project. Thought it was easily going to be double or triple that length.
I have basically the same saw just older and am in the process of doing the same thing. I don't have that router table. But I took my saw off the legs it came with and built it in to a cabinet and plan to install a router lift in the wing. Then I plan to make a fence for my router table that just slips on top of my table saw fence. After watch how easy it was for you attach your route table top to your saw I realised I am definitely taking the hard way.
Building the saw into a cabinet is a really cool idea, Darrell! I had been holding off on this installation as I didn’t know how it would go or what supplies I’d need. Other than tools I already had on hand, it was just $6 in hardware. I could see someone easily installing a narrow router table top by shimming it out with level lumber.
Well done I like the idea I think that’s how they should make it when it comes out of the factory that way we will not have to be thinking hard to be able to think of places to put our extra power tools well done
Quick dust collection tip, On that router fence, if you flip the dust collection port in the back it will gather from up top as opposed to having a hose laid out on the table saw.
Awesome tip! I just took a look and that will work be much more convenient for me. Easy to drill two holes in the plastic to get it to be solid too. Thank you!
I honestly looked at router tables yesterday, saw the 1181 and thought to myself yep that’s the one I’ll get. Then I see this video. I’m pretty excited to get it now and mount it in my 4520 table saw (same fence system as the 4512). This will free up a spot for a sander in a flip top tool station instead of having the router table in there. Sweet!
Great video! The only thing I would add is that you probably should have used lock washers (and maybe a flat washer if it will fit) on your eight bolts. That saw and the router will vibrate a lot, and those nuts are going to want to creep out. Lock washers should prevent that. I have a Ridgid 3650 that you can bet I am going to be putting the tape measure to so I can find out if this will work on mine. Good job!
Great advice for anyone thinking about doing this build, thanks for sharing! I didn’t experience any issues myself, but fully agree with your recommendation.
@@MasonWoodshop a Quick question. Where did you buy the 1/32" spacers. My local big Box Store only has washers @ 1/16" thick and I've searched on Amazon with no luck. To your knowledge, are they known as something else perhaps? Thanks a bunch!
@@gary1739 I was able to find them at my local big box store (I think it was Lowes at the time) in the hardware aisle, but not with the washers. I recall them being with more of the random hardware in that section. I felt deflated when looking for them, then I all of a sudden found them in an odd spot.
Right on, Jaime! I've been really happy with my Ridgid saw for the 5 years I've had it. It does look like the R4512 has changed a little bit over the years, so before attempting this mod just make sure to check the gap between the fence rails.
Great job. I am in the middle of doing the same only on the TS 3660. I am turning the router table around so it faces the table saw for bigger pieces. I intend, though have not finished the math on, putting a cabinet underneath. Kills me to lose that space.
Thanks Rick! Awesome to hear you're doing the same thing and that's a really smart idea to turn it around if you're generally using larger pieces. I've been thinking about a cabinet myself - it would be nice to have some more storage, but also an upper part to help collect/contain dust.
How did that go for you Rick? I have a 3650 I’d like to try this on and from what I’ve heard the 3650 and 60 are pretty similar with some cosmetic differences.
@@Remydelco pretty well, at least for my skill level. I have four drawers under the tablesaw portion, as well as a bin for the sawdust. STill need to settle on closing off the back to improve suction. Under the router table i have the dust collection (think containment), a large drawer and the 4 smaller ones on the side. Happy to share info, we can DM.
Thanks for doing this video. Because if it, I've just completed this same procedure. I only used four bolts to connect it and it seems sturdy enough, but if needed I can always add more. I used hex socket head bolts on the back rail and it made it very easy to deal with tightening up the bolts. I also added flat and lock washers to each bolt so they don't vibrate loose. I'm very happy with way it turned out.
@@MasonWoodshop I went with the Delta T3 from Lowes (not sure they still sell it), it comes with new rails which are good rails. Bad thing is it's fence faces are concave. I got a little lucky to pick up the fence at a serious discount at the time. Then I replaced one of the fence faces with an aluminum extrusion fence from Woodpecker spt-36 ($50). I dont splurge on Woodpecker products or most things, but I wanted a flat fence. if was to do it again (with no seriously discounted Delta T-3), I would try ibuildit.ca, John's has a diy fence that looks good. or FB market place i have seen a few fences pop up, Beismeyer around $200. I saw a video that kind of helped me install the Delta T-3, I can try to locate it if you like. not hard to drill through the rails, I decided to not drill into my saw for the setup.
@@scott8351 Thanks for explaining all of that! I'm a big fan of John Heisz, so I'll have to check out his fence. Going to set a notification on used Beismeyer's as I know they pop-up occasionally. Thanks for bringing the benefit of a potential fence upgrade to my attention!
I like this! I am completely new to using these types of tools. but I have a question. is there any reason why you couldn't have rotated the table 180 degrees which would allow you to use the table saw fence? could the attachments on the router fence be attached to the table saw fence?
Great question! Even in the orientation I have it, the table saw fence could be used (highly recommend attaching a sacrificial ply/MDF fence to it. I opted to use the router table fence as it was most compatible with the accessories I used and provided dust collection ports.
Just found your videos, good practical advice. I did the same thing a few years ago with a Kreg router table, on my Ridgid TS. (great minds think alike), your Bosch looks like a better fit. You mentioned getting a lift at the beginning of the video. Don't know if you realize Bosch has a base that adjusts from the top with a key, much cheaper than a lift and does the same thing. Also gives you another base to leave on the table. Bosch Under-Table Router Base with Above-Table Hex Key RA1165, Silver, its available on amazon and other retailers.
Thanks for the kind words, Ed! The RA1165 is exactly what I’m planning on getting - much cheaper, less weight, and you’re right that it essentially does the same thing.
Super job!!! How wide is your router table? I have a Craftsman TS that is 27” deep from front to back, so I’m good there. If you’d be kind enough to let me know what the width is, that would be super. It looks like you went to Lowe’s, if so do you know the part number on the washers you used? I am actually contemplating using nylon washers. I have a local Ace the has a ton of different thicknesses. I would maybe use 4 on each end. Since you’ve drilled the rear rail, I think you should be able to find some metal snap in covers for a 5/8” hole similar to what you’d use in electrical boxes where removed knock outs have left a hole. McMaster-Carr might be a good choice, eBay as well. There maybe plastic versions as well. I’m not 100% sure if a 5/16” mushroom socket head screw has a smaller diameter head in lieu of the hex headed bolt? At any rate I am a new new subscriber. Thank you much!
Thanks Jim!!! While I no longer have this setup (not because it wasn't good...it was) the router table was exactly 27" wide, which was just shy of the width between the fences, hence the washers. I didn't think too much about the washers (I realized I had some decent tolerance with my table saw fence), so I don't have a part number, but I do like your idea of using nylon washers. They should compress slightly so you can get it dialed in nicely so that your table saw fence can still move freely.
Can you attach the router fence to the table saw fence. Im planning on doing this same set up. I just thought it would be a good idea to the both fences attached together. What are your thoughts
That’s an interesting idea and I don’t see why that wouldn’t work as long as you eliminate the bolts that lock down the router table fence to the router table. I know there are some folks out there that just added a sacrificial fence to the table saw fence, but I much prefer your idea!
I CANNOT find those 3/64" washers anywhere!!! Where the heck did you get them .. I need to order some. I now have the router table and the bolts, just need those darned washers!!!! by the way .. your video has got me going on this mod. Thank YOU very much !!!
Happy to hear it’s been a helpful video! It wasn’t nearly as difficult as I had expected, but it took some planning to get the right parts, although substitutes would work.
I, too, could not find the thin washers at either the blue or the orange but I did find nominal thickness washers made from rubber that made a great fit. Kudos as well to the OP for a well thought out vid.
I love this idea as I have the same router table. I don't yet have the table saw but I have a portable one at this time. Is the fence able to be modified that you could use it for the router? I was thinking I could just add some sacrificial mdf to the right side of the table saw fence and use it for the router table as well. Just an idea! keep up the good videos!
Thanks for the great comment! You could use the table saw fence, but probably with a few modifications - I’d probably double up on the thickness of MDF so that you wouldn’t risk cutting into the fence. The other consideration is dust collection. Not having a dust port for a vac isn’t a huge deal, but you could get some significant dust pile up if there was no where else for it to go. I recall watching a video a while back where someone built a bit of a box that would slide over the table saw fence that had these sort of features in it.
I have another question if you will. Is the wing to the left of the RA1181 stamped steel or cast iron? It looks stamped steel from the video. I have a Craftsman 10” saw with the same basic fence system. Both of my extensions are cast iron. Your extension next to your router table looks narrower than my extension. My extension is 27”X12”. The rail on the back of the saw when installed by the book overhangs the left extension. I am thinking of sliding it to the right so I have a bit more support on the router table. Let me know your thoughts. I know you no longer have the saw but I was hoping you might be able to enlighten me. Thanks & Merry Christmas!
I've been thinking of doing that too just for space saving. Now that you have used it for a while what do you think is it worth the money or should I build my own top
Great question, thanks for asking! Overall, I do really like it still, but I know that if I had the space (I don’t with my single car garage shop) a dedicated floor-standing router table would be better. It’s super-sturdy, but it’d be nice to have a box underneath to help with dust and storage. I’m thinking about building something, but rather than just hang from the current setup, it would extend to the ground and help with support.
I’m not exactly sure what you mean by “blade side”, but if it’s about mounting the router table to the right of the blade, that’s because the extension wing is much larger on the right-side. It could probably be mounted on the left as well, but not quite as securely.
@@MasonWoodshop I didn't say that very well. By "blade side" I meant that the fence of the router table is closer to the middle of the saw rather than on the outboard side of the saw. I assumed you would mount it so that the fence was as far away from the blade as possible. Still on the right side of the saw but just flipping the router table 180 degrees. I'm getting ready to do a similar project on my ts-3660 and am just wondering what I missed.
Why didn't you screw the 2 2by4's on top of the plate ? then you could gently drop the plate in from above and it would be aligned with the table saw top Plenty of room beneath it to work from underneath for marking the holes in the aluminum profile remove the plate and drill the holes simple ?
You could definitely get by with just the table saw fence, and I did at times, however the router fence was nice due to the ability to mount accessories and have dust collection hooked up.
OH OH .. Also - I saw on another video - the guy drilled holes at the end of the track that holds the fence on. That way - you don't have to feed the nut in from the bottom and you can take the hole fence assembly off without the hassle. The hole is just in the TOP of the track - not all the way thru the table. Slide it forward - pull up - and the fence is gone. NOW .. where did you get those washers/spacers so I can go get some. Your parts bag is backwards so I cannot read the store name.
Oooooh, that’s a clever move on the other video. I got my parts at a Canadian retailer called Rona (similar to Lowe’s/THe Home Depot). If you find thinner ones, you can just stack them accordingly. Realistically, you probably don’t have to be quite as precise as I was in the video - I got lucky finding what I did, but was planning to go a bit thicker out of expected necessity.
I would have just clamped two straight edges to each side of the table saw and clamped the router table to the straight edges (aluminum levels work well) and marked all hole. That way everything would be perfectly flat and in the right place. Even tighten the bolts with the straight edges clamped to ensure everything is lined up on the same plane. I don't think it is a good idea to lower the router table. What if you want to router a wider board that needs to sit up on table saw top? That lip will cause problems. Also, it would be a good idea to bolt through those 3 end holes to make it much less prone to sagging the rails. Why not just use your table saw fence for the router, by fastening a board to the backside (router side). I did it to mine and the fence slides much better than it did with out it.
Why drill an enlarged hole on the outside of the rail to insert a bolt / head, thus weakening the frame. Why not drill a 5/16 through hole and insert a carriage bolt with the bolt head on outside of frame
It is a shame Bosch made the fence so that it can't slip on and off easily, like most... with holes at the ends of the slots to allow the bolts to slip out. I'd rig a way to attach the router fence to the table saw fence (so it can be removed when needed). That way, the backside of the table saw fence becomes the fence for the router and moves as one unit to operate for both.
It's not an ideal attachment for a fence, that's for sure. I've found a few ideas on how to make a nice plywood box that slips over the table saw fence, but still gives clearance for close routing. Something I might think a little more about now! Thanks for commenting.
Great build idea ... That 32nd or 64th is called a millimeter to the the rest of the world lol Never got why Americans try to call everything 5th 4ths 10ths etc... LIke you call a burger a Quarter pounder as it should be and than call something a 4th instead of a quarter.. Why is it not a 4th pounder ? lol
Hahaha! Here in Canada it’s even messier with such a mix of standards. I’ve recently changed my shop over to metric for almost everything but I still need to adjust when materials and hardware are in imperial.
@@MasonWoodshop Oh you're in Canada, my bad... It just sounds so funny to us over in England.. I always ask my American friends on social media why they always say one forth instead of a quarter but call a quarter pounder a quarter pounder... They can never seem to give me an answer lol They also say two forths or four eighths instead of half ! 😁
@@mrhydroblowback8933 Haha! The terminology isn't too different in Canada and I agree with you that the consistency in use of language across objects/applications is pretty wild.
This could have been a very Informative video and I would have watched the full length if it wasn't so long and I wasn't so annoyed by your upspeak. Sorry dude!
If you have any space-saving workshop tips, share them in the comments below! I'm always looking for new ways to optimize my small shop and improve my workflow.
Hi Mason, I've mentioned on another of your videos that you could give your table saw fence more capacity by flipping the orientation of the router table. I also enlarged the router table fence clamp guide slots at one end of each slot by drilling over-sized holes at those ends so that I could easily pull the fence from the top and not have to remove the bolts from below.
@@palbergwerx.comcreativedir1338 Definitely something I'm considering, especially as I consider a bit of a rearrangement of the shop!
@@palbergwerx.comcreativedir1338 Do you mean the table saw gets more capacity because the router table fence won't be in the way? Saves you from having to remove the router table fence if you need more ripping capacity for the table saw?
Just got my Bosch table used in perfect condition for 100 Canadian. I am going to install today thanks to your terrific advice and video’ thank you!
That’s great!!! Enjoy and thanks for commenting.
Did the same identical Craftsman Professional bench top router table on my Ridgid TS3650 saw.
You mentioned the hassle with removing or reinstalling the Bosch fence. The carriage bolts Bosch provides are unnecessarily long so I went to Lowe's and bought a pair of 5/16" x 1" carriage bolts, instead, so I don't spend all afternoon unscrewing the tightening nob. Same for the featherboard bolts, switching to 5/16" x 1-1/4" carriage bolts.
And too much emphasis on the thickness of the washers. Any normal thin 5/16" washers will do fine.
The job was a cinch. Thanks for taking time to record what you did.
Great advice, thanks for sharing and watching!
This video inspired me to do the same with my Craftsman router table (exact same dimensions) and my Ridgid 3650 tablesaw. Thx so much, like you said this is a real game changer!
That’s great to hear! Thanks for sharing.
Great video! I re-used 4 of the black bolts, lock washer and nut from the Bosch router table for the side you don’t have to drill out holes for. On the side where holes are made I used carriage bolts. The fence still slides all the way.
Happy to hear that, great job!!!
Just watched your video and was very impressed with your excitement as your RA1181 began to take shape in your table saw. I ordered a RA1181 today to install in my table saw can't wait till I get it done. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching and the kind words, Jim! I’ve used it a handful of times so far and I wouldn’t change anything about my installation at this point. Good luck with your install!
I make a lot of cutting boards that I sell at a local restaurant and will use it several times a week.
I Did The Same Upgrade On My 4520 Fits Like A Glove. The Only Thing I Added Were Some Braces Made From Metal Conduit Mounted To Bottom Of Router Table And Then To The Legs Of The Table Saw. I Was A Little Worried About The Extra Weight On The Table Saw Guide Rails. And A Bonus Was I Could Store My Table Saw Sled On These Braces Also.
It's great when everything comes together. This is a great video for showing how it's done. Bang on, as it were.
Oh yeah, I was hopefully it would work out, but I had no idea it'd be an hour or two project. Thought it was easily going to be double or triple that length.
I have basically the same saw just older and am in the process of doing the same thing. I don't have that router table. But I took my saw off the legs it came with and built it in to a cabinet and plan to install a router lift in the wing. Then I plan to make a fence for my router table that just slips on top of my table saw fence. After watch how easy it was for you attach your route table top to your saw I realised I am definitely taking the hard way.
Building the saw into a cabinet is a really cool idea, Darrell! I had been holding off on this installation as I didn’t know how it would go or what supplies I’d need. Other than tools I already had on hand, it was just $6 in hardware. I could see someone easily installing a narrow router table top by shimming it out with level lumber.
Well done I like the idea I think that’s how they should make it when it comes out of the factory that way we will not have to be thinking hard to be able to think of places to put our extra power tools well done
Quick dust collection tip, On that router fence, if you flip the dust collection port in the back it will gather from up top as opposed to having a hose laid out on the table saw.
Awesome tip! I just took a look and that will work be much more convenient for me. Easy to drill two holes in the plastic to get it to be solid too. Thank you!
I honestly looked at router tables yesterday, saw the 1181 and thought to myself yep that’s the one I’ll get. Then I see this video. I’m pretty excited to get it now and mount it in my 4520 table saw (same fence system as the 4512). This will free up a spot for a sander in a flip top tool station instead of having the router table in there. Sweet!
Your comment makes my day! I hope it all works out.
Great video! The only thing I would add is that you probably should have used lock washers (and maybe a flat washer if it will fit) on your eight bolts. That saw and the router will vibrate a lot, and those nuts are going to want to creep out. Lock washers should prevent that. I have a Ridgid 3650 that you can bet I am going to be putting the tape measure to so I can find out if this will work on mine. Good job!
Great advice for anyone thinking about doing this build, thanks for sharing! I didn’t experience any issues myself, but fully agree with your recommendation.
wondering if you ever checked or completed that project. Have the same tools but away from home on the trip :)
Thanks for making this concise and informative video!! I have my table on order and plan to have this up and running this weekend!!
Awesome to hear! Good luck with the installation.
@@MasonWoodshop a Quick question. Where did you buy the 1/32" spacers. My local big Box Store only has washers @ 1/16" thick and I've searched on Amazon with no luck. To your knowledge, are they known as something else perhaps? Thanks a bunch!
@@gary1739 I was able to find them at my local big box store (I think it was Lowes at the time) in the hardware aisle, but not with the washers. I recall them being with more of the random hardware in that section. I felt deflated when looking for them, then I all of a sudden found them in an odd spot.
That Ridgid table saw is on my wishlist, I have bosch RA1181, that will awesome ones get one!..🙏🏼✌🏼
Right on, Jaime! I've been really happy with my Ridgid saw for the 5 years I've had it. It does look like the R4512 has changed a little bit over the years, so before attempting this mod just make sure to check the gap between the fence rails.
@@MasonWoodshop thanks
You can switch out the bolts on the right hand side with SHCS ( socket head cap screws ) which use Allen wrenchs to tighten.
Great review was looking at this combo I have a 4520 simular saw.
Great job. I am in the middle of doing the same only on the TS 3660. I am turning the router table around so it faces the table saw for bigger pieces. I intend, though have not finished the math on, putting a cabinet underneath. Kills me to lose that space.
Thanks Rick! Awesome to hear you're doing the same thing and that's a really smart idea to turn it around if you're generally using larger pieces. I've been thinking about a cabinet myself - it would be nice to have some more storage, but also an upper part to help collect/contain dust.
How did that go for you Rick? I have a 3650 I’d like to try this on and from what I’ve heard the 3650 and 60 are pretty similar with some cosmetic differences.
@@Remydelco pretty well, at least for my skill level. I have four drawers under the tablesaw portion, as well as a bin for the sawdust. STill need to settle on closing off the back to improve suction. Under the router table i have the dust collection (think containment), a large drawer and the 4 smaller ones on the side. Happy to share info, we can DM.
Thanks for doing this video. Because if it, I've just completed this same procedure. I only used four bolts to connect it and it seems sturdy enough, but if needed I can always add more. I used hex socket head bolts on the back rail and it made it very easy to deal with tightening up the bolts. I also added flat and lock washers to each bolt so they don't vibrate loose. I'm very happy with way it turned out.
Thanks for sharing your success and approach! It’s such a space saver.
Looks nice, I have the same saw, not a fan of the fence. Changed it out, now it's really good.
That’s an intriguing upgrade, which fence did you get for yours? Did you have to change out the rails as well?
@@MasonWoodshop I went with the Delta T3 from Lowes (not sure they still sell it), it comes with new rails which are good rails. Bad thing is it's fence faces are concave. I got a little lucky to pick up the fence at a serious discount at the time. Then I replaced one of the fence faces with an aluminum extrusion fence from Woodpecker spt-36 ($50). I dont splurge on Woodpecker products or most things, but I wanted a flat fence. if was to do it again (with no seriously discounted Delta T-3), I would try ibuildit.ca, John's has a diy fence that looks good. or FB market place i have seen a few fences pop up, Beismeyer around $200. I saw a video that kind of helped me install the Delta T-3, I can try to locate it if you like. not hard to drill through the rails, I decided to not drill into my saw for the setup.
@@scott8351 Thanks for explaining all of that! I'm a big fan of John Heisz, so I'll have to check out his fence. Going to set a notification on used Beismeyer's as I know they pop-up occasionally. Thanks for bringing the benefit of a potential fence upgrade to my attention!
I like this! I am completely new to using these types of tools.
but I have a question. is there any reason why you couldn't have rotated the table 180 degrees which would allow you to use the table saw fence? could the attachments on the router fence be attached to the table saw fence?
Great question! Even in the orientation I have it, the table saw fence could be used (highly recommend attaching a sacrificial ply/MDF fence to it. I opted to use the router table fence as it was most compatible with the accessories I used and provided dust collection ports.
Just found your videos, good practical advice. I did the same thing a few years ago with a Kreg router table, on my Ridgid TS. (great minds think alike), your Bosch looks like a better fit. You mentioned getting a lift at the beginning of the video. Don't know if you realize Bosch has a base that adjusts from the top with a key, much cheaper than a lift and does the same thing. Also gives you another base to leave on the table. Bosch Under-Table Router Base with Above-Table Hex Key RA1165, Silver, its available on amazon and other retailers.
Thanks for the kind words, Ed! The RA1165 is exactly what I’m planning on getting - much cheaper, less weight, and you’re right that it essentially does the same thing.
Super job!!! How wide is your router table? I have a Craftsman TS that is 27” deep from front to back, so I’m good there. If you’d be kind enough to let me know what the width is, that would be super. It looks like you went to Lowe’s, if so do you know the part number on the washers you used? I am actually contemplating using nylon washers. I have a local Ace the has a ton of different thicknesses. I would maybe use 4 on each end. Since you’ve drilled the rear rail, I think you should be able to find some metal snap in covers for a 5/8” hole similar to what you’d use in electrical boxes where removed knock outs have left a hole. McMaster-Carr might be a good choice, eBay as well. There maybe plastic versions as well. I’m not 100% sure if a 5/16” mushroom socket head screw has a smaller diameter head in lieu of the hex headed bolt? At any rate I am a new new subscriber. Thank you much!
Thanks Jim!!! While I no longer have this setup (not because it wasn't good...it was) the router table was exactly 27" wide, which was just shy of the width between the fences, hence the washers. I didn't think too much about the washers (I realized I had some decent tolerance with my table saw fence), so I don't have a part number, but I do like your idea of using nylon washers. They should compress slightly so you can get it dialed in nicely so that your table saw fence can still move freely.
Can you attach the router fence to the table saw fence. Im planning on doing this same set up. I just thought it would be a good idea to the both fences attached together. What are your thoughts
That’s an interesting idea and I don’t see why that wouldn’t work as long as you eliminate the bolts that lock down the router table fence to the router table. I know there are some folks out there that just added a sacrificial fence to the table saw fence, but I much prefer your idea!
I CANNOT find those 3/64" washers anywhere!!! Where the heck did you get them .. I need to order some. I now have the router table and the bolts, just need those darned washers!!!! by the way .. your video has got me going on this mod. Thank YOU very much !!!
Happy to hear it’s been a helpful video! It wasn’t nearly as difficult as I had expected, but it took some planning to get the right parts, although substitutes would work.
I, too, could not find the thin washers at either the blue or the orange but I did find nominal thickness washers made from rubber that made a great fit. Kudos as well to the OP for a well thought out vid.
Nice video, Thanks !
I love this idea as I have the same router table. I don't yet have the table saw but I have a portable one at this time. Is the fence able to be modified that you could use it for the router? I was thinking I could just add some sacrificial mdf to the right side of the table saw fence and use it for the router table as well. Just an idea! keep up the good videos!
Thanks for the great comment! You could use the table saw fence, but probably with a few modifications - I’d probably double up on the thickness of MDF so that you wouldn’t risk cutting into the fence. The other consideration is dust collection. Not having a dust port for a vac isn’t a huge deal, but you could get some significant dust pile up if there was no where else for it to go. I recall watching a video a while back where someone built a bit of a box that would slide over the table saw fence that had these sort of features in it.
I have another question if you will. Is the wing to the left of the RA1181 stamped steel or cast iron? It looks stamped steel from the video. I have a Craftsman 10” saw with the same basic fence system. Both of my extensions are cast iron. Your extension next to your router table looks narrower than my extension. My extension is 27”X12”. The rail on the back of the saw when installed by the book overhangs the left extension. I am thinking of sliding it to the right so I have a bit more support on the router table. Let me know your thoughts. I know you no longer have the saw but I was hoping you might be able to enlighten me. Thanks & Merry Christmas!
Hey Jim - you’re right that on mine the wing to the left is stamped steel. For your situation, I believe you thinking is sound!
How thick is the router plate?
I've been thinking of doing that too just for space saving. Now that you have used it for a while what do you think is it worth the money or should I build my own top
Great question, thanks for asking! Overall, I do really like it still, but I know that if I had the space (I don’t with my single car garage shop) a dedicated floor-standing router table would be better. It’s super-sturdy, but it’d be nice to have a box underneath to help with dust and storage. I’m thinking about building something, but rather than just hang from the current setup, it would extend to the ground and help with support.
I'm curious why you mounted the fence on the blade side rather than the outboard part of the saw. Am I missing some compromise there?
I’m not exactly sure what you mean by “blade side”, but if it’s about mounting the router table to the right of the blade, that’s because the extension wing is much larger on the right-side. It could probably be mounted on the left as well, but not quite as securely.
@@MasonWoodshop I didn't say that very well. By "blade side" I meant that the fence of the router table is closer to the middle of the saw rather than on the outboard side of the saw. I assumed you would mount it so that the fence was as far away from the blade as possible. Still on the right side of the saw but just flipping the router table 180 degrees.
I'm getting ready to do a similar project on my ts-3660 and am just wondering what I missed.
I would have used aluminum flat bar in the correct thickness as spacer material instead of the washers.
Why didn't you screw the 2 2by4's on top of the plate ? then you could gently drop the plate in from above and it would be aligned with the table saw top
Plenty of room beneath it to work from underneath for marking the holes in the aluminum profile remove the plate and drill the holes simple ?
That’s certainly a method that would work well.
Why do you need both fences?
You could definitely get by with just the table saw fence, and I did at times, however the router fence was nice due to the ability to mount accessories and have dust collection hooked up.
OH OH .. Also - I saw on another video - the guy drilled holes at the end of the track that holds the fence on. That way - you don't have to feed the nut in from the bottom and you can take the hole fence assembly off without the hassle. The hole is just in the TOP of the track - not all the way thru the table. Slide it forward - pull up - and the fence is gone. NOW .. where did you get those washers/spacers so I can go get some. Your parts bag is backwards so I cannot read the store name.
Oooooh, that’s a clever move on the other video. I got my parts at a Canadian retailer called Rona (similar to Lowe’s/THe Home Depot). If you find thinner ones, you can just stack them accordingly. Realistically, you probably don’t have to be quite as precise as I was in the video - I got lucky finding what I did, but was planning to go a bit thicker out of expected necessity.
Thanks!
When drilling aluminum, you want to use lower rpm.
Actually you want more RPM.. I’ve got 30yrs experience in machining. Also a light oil like WD40 or diesel fuel works with getting a nice cut
Use aluminum flat stock for spacer instead of washers.
Why? What's the difference?
I would have just clamped two straight edges to each side of the table saw and clamped the router table to the straight edges (aluminum levels work well) and marked all hole. That way everything would be perfectly flat and in the right place. Even tighten the bolts with the straight edges clamped to ensure everything is lined up on the same plane. I don't think it is a good idea to lower the router table. What if you want to router a wider board that needs to sit up on table saw top? That lip will cause problems.
Also, it would be a good idea to bolt through those 3 end holes to make it much less prone to sagging the rails. Why not just use your table saw fence for the router, by fastening a board to the backside (router side). I did it to mine and the fence slides much better than it did with out it.
I use my sliding table saw fence instead of the router table fence.
Why drill an enlarged hole on the outside of the rail to insert a bolt / head, thus weakening the frame.
Why not drill a 5/16 through hole and insert a carriage bolt with the bolt head on outside of frame
You could definitely do it that way
Bolt it to the saw wing first.
It is a shame Bosch made the fence so that it can't slip on and off easily, like most... with holes at the ends of the slots to allow the bolts to slip out. I'd rig a way to attach the router fence to the table saw fence (so it can be removed when needed). That way, the backside of the table saw fence becomes the fence for the router and moves as one unit to operate for both.
It's not an ideal attachment for a fence, that's for sure. I've found a few ideas on how to make a nice plywood box that slips over the table saw fence, but still gives clearance for close routing. Something I might think a little more about now! Thanks for commenting.
Crocs? Who wears shoes in their shop?
Haha, yes! If only Crocs made steel toe versions.
Great build idea ...
That 32nd or 64th is called a millimeter to the the rest of the world lol
Never got why Americans try to call everything 5th 4ths 10ths etc...
LIke you call a burger a Quarter pounder as it should be and than call something a 4th instead of a quarter..
Why is it not a 4th pounder ? lol
Hahaha! Here in Canada it’s even messier with such a mix of standards. I’ve recently changed my shop over to metric for almost everything but I still need to adjust when materials and hardware are in imperial.
@@MasonWoodshop Oh you're in Canada, my bad...
It just sounds so funny to us over in England..
I always ask my American friends on social media why they always say one forth instead of a quarter but call a quarter pounder a quarter pounder...
They can never seem to give me an answer lol
They also say two forths or four eighths instead of half ! 😁
@@mrhydroblowback8933 Haha! The terminology isn't too different in Canada and I agree with you that the consistency in use of language across objects/applications is pretty wild.
This could have been a very Informative video and I would have watched the full length if it wasn't so long and I wasn't so annoyed by your upspeak. Sorry dude!
No worries, I wouldn’t recommend watching any of my other videos in that case.
Bro i think you over thinking too much just get to work
34 minutes to fit 8 small bolts, plus 6 thousand words of useless information, zzzzzzzzzzzzz
The saw, fence and customer service is all garbage. Don’t buy anything from Ridged. 100% crap.