Hi Timothy, you would want to remove as much paint as possible and thoroughly clean the wall then use our "Prep" basecoat at 5-6mm as a key coat before applying the colour render. That being said we would normally recommend the use of a thin coat system over existing render to minimize the additional thickness and weight. If you have any details you would like me to look at or quote for please e-mail info@sas-europe.com
Hi. Thanks for the upload. I have a small side wall pf my fish pondvwich is made of crment/concrete blocks. Is there a product that can just be rolled/painted on as I have far too much going on at the moment but the wall just looks drab. Thanks
The product that springs to mind which can be painted on as opposed to trowelled but still offers texture and waterproofing capabilities is high-build. Unfortunately, we don’t provide this product to the market, but I believe other manufacturers do make it or at least have their own versions. Hope that helps.
Hello, no - HBS GoRend does not need a sealant, but like all renders does need a little maintenance with washing down occasionally. See sas-europe.com/products/gorend/gorend-hbs/ for maintenance information.
Please can you help me and tell me how you could render behind drainpipes I see all walls done but not behind drainpipes that cannot be taken off. Thank you
Hi, Thanks for the question - If it is a one-coat render going onto new block work 15mm is the standard bead size. Thanks for the feedback we appreciate it!
Hi Vic, you should really remove as much paint as possible, our Prep basecoat will stick really well but obviously if the paint then comes off the wall so will whatever is on top of it. Send me the project details to info@sas-europe.com and we can put our suggestions together.
this system looks great, I'm an experienced DIYer in many areas of construction and want to have a go at this myself, not just to save ££'s but because I like to learn new skills. Does this let the walls breathe?
Hello! GoRend HBS is vapour permeable - so allows walls to breathe. We do run training courses, although unfortunately not at the moment due to restrictions. Do drop an email to info@sas-europe.com if you would like to go on the waiting list.
Hi Carl, yes you can normally apply in the afternoon and come back to scrape the next day, unless its very hot then you will probably want to be on it the same day. Regarding the basecoat if you are going on block with the same material you can literally go straight over, if you have a different substrate like brick for example and were using one of our basecoat materials this would need to be fully dry before the top coat is applied.
@@danmurphy7338 For Brickwork you need to use our Prep Basecoat, if you drop an e-mail to info@sas-europe.com with the area you are looking to cover I can get you a quote together.
really good video, thanks for the content! Not being too familiar with this render system myself, do you have to wait any amount of time between meshing up after the first pass, applying the second pass, scraping and brushing off etc? Thanks in advance!
Hi Ben, the meshing and second pass can be done straight away, scraping is typically done the next day but this can change depending on the weather conditions. Brushing is done straight after scraping
Great video my friend ! Look forward to what else you got thanks again 👍 Sticky stuff but the same used for dry dash years ago if I'm wright ! Lime based I've spread abit in my time tough going 💪
Thank you, we will try and keep them coming. Very similar, this one isn't lime based but it does have a lime element, let me know if you would like any more information info@sas-europe.com
Thank you! A look at installing the ProWall rendered cladding system will be next, in two parts. Please contact our technical team if there are any projects we can help you with 01647 24620
Great internally try doing it 15floors up outside in the wind not nice lmao or when you hqve no choice but to wait for it to set enough before scratching it off because next morning you know it will be too hard 👍👍
Hi James, thanks for the message. These types of renders are generally classed as 1 coat with 2 passes as the application is wet on wet. A traditional 2 coat system would be a scratch coat left (often for a few days) to fully cure before applying a 2nd coat. The advantage of the "1 coat" system is you can do all your application in one go
@@SASEurope my dear, you still had to put two layers of material on the wall ergo you have gone over it twice, the only difference is that you don't get a chance for a brew Inbetween the two coats with your approach.
Hello, ProMesh is an incredibly strong reinforcing mesh that adds strength and flexibility, helping to prevent cracking around stress points in particular.
omg what is that? surface not primed 8mm thick??? pockets of air in the centre of the screen 1:17 , bad adhesion. this is how NOT to do it! There is a mesh adhesive, to be used before render. silicone render should be applied to a very thin layer 1-2mm with a float or a spray gun.
Those that can do, those that can't teach, absolute amateur in the application and the I bar was used incorrectly, not to mention that it had gone well past the correct cure time, to dry. Why do a video to promote your product like this. 😢
@@SASEurope still 2 coats. The only genuine one coat is ,rein poly chopped strand additive. mixed at 1to 1 sand and cement 💯% waterproof and 💯 % one coat . Base coat mesh top coat Dora's not make one coat render . Nuff said... move on ....
I'm with SAS..... What is the difference between a coat and "a pass". Nothing it amounts to the same thing, you have to go over the wall twice. Hergo 2 coats.
With standards is mesh around windows and doors, full mesh is extras which still don't give You guarantee for stop cracks (foundation, blocks, mortar, lintels etc) That's one coat system because You have to do in one go like wet to wet. If You do roughcast finish so You have to do few coat (mesh coat if needed, base coat, and few coat of roughcast). Still one coat system wet on wet
Hi, if applying this to a previously rendered and painted wall, what preparation would it required? Thanks.
Hi Timothy, you would want to remove as much paint as possible and thoroughly clean the wall then use our "Prep" basecoat at 5-6mm as a key coat before applying the colour render. That being said we would normally recommend the use of a thin coat system over existing render to minimize the additional thickness and weight. If you have any details you would like me to look at or quote for please e-mail info@sas-europe.com
Really Super job , what’s the name of straight edge tool you’re using ? Would screw fix stock it ?
Thanks
It is called a serrated feather edge, screwfix don't stock them but we do :D
Hi. Thanks for the upload.
I have a small side wall pf my fish pondvwich is made of crment/concrete blocks. Is there a product that can just be rolled/painted on as I have far too much going on at the moment but the wall just looks drab.
Thanks
The product that springs to mind which can be painted on as opposed to trowelled but still offers texture and waterproofing capabilities is high-build.
Unfortunately, we don’t provide this product to the market, but I believe other manufacturers do make it or at least have their own versions. Hope that helps.
@@SASEuropeThank you.
Does this need a sealer applied to stop mould or discolour??good job
Hello, no - HBS GoRend does not need a sealant, but like all renders does need a little maintenance with washing down occasionally. See sas-europe.com/products/gorend/gorend-hbs/ for maintenance information.
Please can you help me and tell me how you could render behind drainpipes I see all walls done but not behind drainpipes that cannot be taken off. Thank you
If you were to use stop beads then what size bead would it be appropriate to use? Thanks for the great video.
Hi, Thanks for the question - If it is a one-coat render going onto new block work 15mm is the standard bead size. Thanks for the feedback we appreciate it!
Nice job. Can this be used over a painted garden wall
Hi Vic, you should really remove as much paint as possible, our Prep basecoat will stick really well but obviously if the paint then comes off the wall so will whatever is on top of it. Send me the project details to info@sas-europe.com and we can put our suggestions together.
Thanks for the video ,got to do a patch up job ,on my house ,got all the material s 👍
No problem, glad you enjoyed it.
this system looks great, I'm an experienced DIYer in many areas of construction and want to have a go at this myself, not just to save ££'s but because I like to learn new skills.
Does this let the walls breathe?
Hello! GoRend HBS is vapour permeable - so allows walls to breathe. We do run training courses, although unfortunately not at the moment due to restrictions. Do drop an email to info@sas-europe.com if you would like to go on the waiting list.
would be wise to explain the substrate its going on has to be prepared ?diyers would assume it can go straight on
Hi Ken, quite right, this can only be directly applied to new concrete blockwork, other substrates will require a basecoat
Hi can i just leave first coat on as just want it flush look like Sand Cement then apply Silicone paint
Sue Mcardle just use sand & cement
If you would like a sand and cement finish, take a look at ProRend Float, a pre-mixed mortar that you can sponge finish and paint.
Hi can you leave to scrap back the next day + how long can you leave base coat before top coat
Hi Carl, yes you can normally apply in the afternoon and come back to scrape the next day, unless its very hot then you will probably want to be on it the same day. Regarding the basecoat if you are going on block with the same material you can literally go straight over, if you have a different substrate like brick for example and were using one of our basecoat materials this would need to be fully dry before the top coat is applied.
If you have a particular job you would like information for please e-mail info@sas-europe.com
Can this product e applied to sand and cement scratch coat?
Yes, however one of our basecoats would probably be more suitable depending on the substrate.
Hi did you pre teat the wall first with any SBR?
Hello! No bonding agent is needed with GoRend HBS if it is applied directly to new blockwork.
@@SASEurope what about old brick work? I have a small wall outside my house i’d like to practice on as it looks rubish. Great video
@@danmurphy7338 For Brickwork you need to use our Prep Basecoat, if you drop an e-mail to info@sas-europe.com with the area you are looking to cover I can get you a quote together.
@@SASEurope will do mate. Thanks.
really good video, thanks for the content! Not being too familiar with this render system myself, do you have to wait any amount of time between meshing up after the first pass, applying the second pass, scraping and brushing off etc? Thanks in advance!
Hi Ben, the meshing and second pass can be done straight away, scraping is typically done the next day but this can change depending on the weather conditions. Brushing is done straight after scraping
Great video my friend ! Look forward to what else you got thanks again 👍
Sticky stuff but the same used for dry dash years ago if I'm wright ! Lime based I've spread abit in my time tough going 💪
Thank you, we will try and keep them coming. Very similar, this one isn't lime based but it does have a lime element, let me know if you would like any more information info@sas-europe.com
Thank you! A look at installing the ProWall rendered cladding system will be next, in two parts. Please contact our technical team if there are any projects we can help you with 01647 24620
Is this available in the states?
Is there a course for this product...I do a lot of silicone rendering but have never used this product.
Hi Ian, Yes we do run courses, if you could send your details to info@sas-europe.com we can get you all the information
Available material in saudia Arabia
Great internally try doing it 15floors up outside in the wind not nice lmao or when you hqve no choice but to wait for it to set enough before scratching it off because next morning you know it will be too hard 👍👍
Rocking the music man! ;)
How is that one coat when I just watched you put two on?
Hi James, thanks for the message. These types of renders are generally classed as 1 coat with 2 passes as the application is wet on wet. A traditional 2 coat system would be a scratch coat left (often for a few days) to fully cure before applying a 2nd coat. The advantage of the "1 coat" system is you can do all your application in one go
@@SASEurope my dear, you still had to put two layers of material on the wall ergo you have gone over it twice, the only difference is that you don't get a chance for a brew Inbetween the two coats with your approach.
Way too dry for me... But it's differently over the pond... You guys do a great job tho
Thank you!
What’s the mesh for ?
Hello, ProMesh is an incredibly strong reinforcing mesh that adds strength and flexibility, helping to prevent cracking around stress points in particular.
Looking good
Can you use this product on concrete render board
Yes
Hello! We specify a thin coat render system onto render board, as used in our ProWall system sas-europe.com/products/prowall/
hi
Nice
I'm a woman and I act enjoyed watching this 😂 fascinating stuff
Thank you! 🙂
Это старая технология фасадной штукатурки. Так раньше в Германии штукатурили фасад.
Awesome
omg what is that? surface not primed 8mm thick??? pockets of air in the centre of the screen 1:17 , bad adhesion. this is how NOT to do it! There is a mesh adhesive, to be used before render. silicone render should be applied to a very thin layer 1-2mm with a float or a spray gun.
Hi, judging by your comments you are referring to a thin-coat system, this is monocouche scratch render so the application is as described
Wouldn't like to take a big panel down with this guy that's all I am saying 🙈🙈
He's right handed and going right to left . What the he'll am I watching here???????
This is not silicone, it's mineral.
Hi there - ProRend Colour contains silicone to give a highly water resistant finish, as well as top-quality mineral elements.
It mineral and also painful to watch
How silicone can be in pouder? 😂 😂 😂
Those that can do, those that can't teach, absolute amateur in the application and the I bar was used incorrectly, not to mention that it had gone well past the correct cure time, to dry. Why do a video to promote your product like this. 😢
It’s not even silicone ffs. What are you people doing?!
ب
Can you count ? I seen you put on 2 coats plus mesh so 3 layers .
NOT ONE COAT .
You must be a k-rend 🤠 🤭🤭🤭
Hi, this is a 2 pass, one coat render - no waiting inbetween passes.
@@SASEurope still 2 coats.
The only genuine one coat is ,rein poly chopped strand additive.
mixed at 1to 1 sand and cement 💯% waterproof and 💯 % one coat .
Base coat mesh top coat Dora's not make one coat render . Nuff said... move on ....
I'm with SAS..... What is the difference between a coat and "a pass". Nothing it amounts to the same thing, you have to go over the wall twice. Hergo 2 coats.
With standards is mesh around windows and doors, full mesh is extras which still don't give You guarantee for stop cracks (foundation, blocks, mortar, lintels etc) That's one coat system because You have to do in one go like wet to wet. If You do roughcast finish so You have to do few coat (mesh coat if needed, base coat, and few coat of roughcast). Still one coat system wet on wet