Вставка
- Опубліковано 10 лип 2017
- DIY application of K Rend though coat render for architectural garden walling. Planters are made from dense concrete blocks within inner lining of bitumen paint and visqueen. Render applied in 2 coats with 11mm beading. Top coat applied after 18 hours and scraped back later the same afternoon.
Nice work fella, well done 👍
amazing video. thank you for making it look easy to get on with
Yep! Not bad for the first time! The key things I’d do differently now are use a deeper beading (15mm) and use a straight edge when scratching back to keep the surface perfectly flat with the beading.
Use wet and forget on your white rendered walls as it eats any moss, moulds, lichen and algae it’s great as I use it on my contemporary raised beds and they are white super clean looking highly recommend it 👍
This was a great tip thank you! I bought this from Amazon and it’s making a difference (especially near the hedges where the algae seems to sit)!
Go over with an I beam to knock off the high spots before you scratch up, will be 100% more level when finished
1st you should use hp12 as first coat for k render, then thick 2nd coat with k- render. Wait 4-6 hours dependimg on weather then scratch up.
1 bag of k -render should only 1m squared, only mixing half bags is just prolonging the job. Good tip, use a clean out bucket to clean whisk spraying it over customers garden is a very bad idea.
Finish product looks good but a very long way of doing it and quite messy
what do you think is better for a house k rende ror sand and cement?
100% clean
Looks amazing 👍 did you done any drainage?
Great video, can I ask how did you get the black plastic to stick to the top of the inner side? I was going to seat it under the top most block but yours seems to be at the top of the topmost block. Tbanks
Hi - the inside of the planters were coated with two thick coats of bitumen paint before lining with a layer of visqueen (black plastic sheeting). You could point it into the top layer of block or pinch under the outer edge of the beading. I simply trimmed it off very near the top and held it against the inside of the wall with soul and a top layer or bark. I’d probably look at getting some black plastic trim and screwing this over the top next time (something like this - www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/classicbond-epdm-gutter-trim-upvc-gutter-drip-25m-length.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIp6qw3aqM7AIVk4bVCh3LwgQsEAQYASABEgKVpPD_BwE
Great video for us DIYs!
By the way, what is the name of the song? I can't find it anywhere :(
Hi. I'm a DIY'er about to have a go at rendering. I've watched many tutorials now but none seem to mention drying times / times between each pass.
I am going to apply (straight onto concrete blocks) HP12 base coat and beads, then mesh, then 2nd pass of HP12.
Do I then leave to completely set before applying K1 top coat or do I apply it immediately? same day?
Also, do I need to apply a 'bonding adhesive' such as SBR or is the new clean blockwork going to be ok to go straight onto?
TIA for you help and advice.
Hi. I’m in the same boat as you. Starting this weekend. My understanding is. Let the base coat go off. Minimum 24 hours. And then apply top coat. No bonding agent should be needed on new clean dry blocks from what I’ve seen.
@@scottramsdale1572 Thanks Scott. Well I've made a start and it seems to be working out ok. As it turns out I can't locate any stock of K1 K Rend top coat in white so my base coat will have plenty of time to dry :). Good luck with your project.
@@vincealcorn I’ve had the same trouble but finding any none white colours. Not sure if it’ll help as I don’t know where you are. But Travis Perkins in Chesterfield, Derbyshire have stock of FT white. My none white was from a website called ‘rendit’ they’re based in Doncaster I think.
I notice the K-rend commences above the finished slab level. Do I see a bitumin painted block/brick beneath this? This is what I am planning for my garden wall which is two levels with the upper level 40cm above the lower level. So acting as a small retaining wall. This will have a french drain so with bitumin paint this and K-rend above it. Also, someone receommended the K-Rend GP mortar mix. Is this better than HP12?
Great video I'm about to start mine. Today as its sunny. Just finished the block wall and driveway gate posts.
Should I use mesh or leave it out like you did just garden wall flower beds and posts like you have done? Using k rend was going to use that cork sol and spray it but fancy giving the k rend ago.
you didn't get a reply - but I'm interested to hear what you did! Most others on YT seem to use mesh - did you? And did it turn out OK?
I didn't end up using it and its bonded well, no cracks or movement.
Used concrete block, base and then top coat, super easy after a couple of mixes you get used to applying k rend.
I got quoted 55 pounds per square meter so I'm glad I did it myself.
Cant go wrong as its scratch coat looks superb all the neighbours came out and said what a great finish it was. Painted it to to match my grey windows ral7022.
@@s.s.lcivilengineering6364 thanks for the reply!!
Hi, Superb video and very helpful, im about to do my planters...is the base coat the same as the topcoat or a different krend?
Hi - Krend do a base coat however the Render I’m using here is suitable fo two coat applications. Given the size of the job I found it easier to do two of the same to keep it simple. Good luck with your job!
You should always use hp12 base coat then use top coat
Bien amigo
Mint 👊
Il faut attendre combien de temps avant de gratter please ?
No base coat? Is it necessary?
How long did you leave it after the second application before using the Scratching trowel. Thanks
12 hrs
I found that it can be done late afternoon if applied in the morning, however, just be careful to ensure it’s dry enough to crumble instead of smearing. If you get the timing right the excess will fall from the scratching tool without getting clogged up and stuck.
Looks great, well done. As an amateur to a pro, would it be best to put a layer of mesh to prevent a blowout after a frost.
Genuine question from a DIYer
Thanks for posting this up, nicely demonstrated but it's not for me unless a client insists on having it.
They used K-rend on a farmhouse down the road from my home, their stuff came from France. The Albanian plasterers put on a 1st tight coat, scratched it up and 2 days later put on the final coat before hitting it with the metal teethed float. No cracking and lots of expansion joints. In a nearby village is another Krend home and this one was done 3 years previously and I've noticed a few cracks but generally it looks OK, time will tell and I will stick with using lime putty mortars and plasters because they have stood the test of time and I know where I am with them just like sand and cement. K-Rend is used everywhere and it's slapped on all kinds of surfaces without any kind of wetting down and, to me, this can lead to long term issues.
I'm looking to build these in my garden, but every vid I've watched, use a stratch coat then a final coat sponged off.!
@@luvit7567, so why don't you use something else like a 3:1 sand & hydraulic lime or putty or a 5:1 sand and cement?
K-Rend is shit, Webber or Monorex are t best, K-Rend is to fine and cracks even when the wall has been meshed.
@@ParkaMonkey,thanks for that. Nearly all the new homes used K-rend and as you said they crack and get discoloured in no time. Do the bags have a shelf-like like multi-finish or cement?
Peter Gambier some shops do, your best bet is a render specialist shop
That will fall off with in 2 years - no base coat - what a bloody cowboy 🤠🤠🤠
plenty of waves in that wall
did you use a base coat or just the krend?
Hi Gary, for this I just used the K1. This was the first time I used it and I followed the data sheet guidance (to use it as a two coat render). I’ve been pleased with the results, however, knowing what I know now is use 15mm beading and HP12 base coat. Good luck!
What’s the name of the tool you use to grade to make the finish touch
Just out of interest, as I’m going to be doing my own shortly, did you just use adhesive for the drip beads at the bottom or did you nail them up? I worry a little the frost May get to them and they fail.
Hi, I used a solvent based Gripfill ( in a green tube) that has stuck really well. When applying I used an off it to force any of the adhesive that had squeezed through the beading back into the holes to try and maximise hold. I’ve done this with all the walls I’ve done since.
jlongrid cheers dude
comment s'appelle ce métier ?
You need to use H bar
سلام إني مبدع فهدا العمل إن كان لكم أخبروني
Buy a bigger 110 paddle mixer and a big mixing tub will be so much quicker lad
What no base coat ????
Nope...
Could have done HPX base but just did as one coat due to the size of the job and application (data sheet - www.k-rend.co.uk/pdf/Silicone_K1.pdf).
They’re still looking great after being done for a couple of years. Only thing I’ve noticed is that the tops are susceptible to dirt/ algae from plants.
Good luck with it!
Great video, I a small job that needs to be done and you have given me the confidence to give it go.
Nice looking job you done. Thanks 👍
What size beads are you using mate 10 -15 mm
@@jlongrid Hi, if this was your own home, would you do this the same way, or go the two coat route?
Wayne Brewer think these were 10 - knowing what I know now I’d have done 15 just for the extra thickness - I did 15 on the other walls in the garden just to avoid the chance of cutting though the first coat.
No mesh??;!!
B
Should have used a I bar
I’ve not scratched back with one but I’ve been told it’s a good way of getting it flat if you’re able to rest it on the beading in each side.
😀
🐕🔥🔥🔥💥👈☠️🔥👈🐕🔥👈
No mesh, no straight edge, no I bar and to hard left to long
Fuk mesh its tiny and if you can't get that straight with a trowel your wank and should stay off it.
Left too long too hard
Average