A very impressive shop. Dad was a wood shop teacher (industrial arts, and now Technology Education, STEM). He put together a small shop at the mountain house and did all kinds of projects. He would be very impressed with your shop. I like the feeder for the table saw. I really like the measuring stops on the radial arm saw. So cool. I was taught to clamp a block of wood and do it that way. I like yours much more. Anyway, I would say the best way to make those 300 bottom boards is to make all the cuts at one time. You make the big bottom pieces first (300 of them). Then you cut the side rails second, and so on. I like that you use screws and you paint the exposed wood. Very well done!!!!!
Thanks for sharing your experience. This is much appreciated and it is very instructive. One of the most important part of the beehive is the top cover There is a lot of different designs around. Here in Québec, Canada a lot if people use a mixed metal/wood top cover. But I've been attracted to the wood covers you use. They can use both pail feeder an jar feeder. If you could share your design with a video like this one for the bottom this would be much appreciated.
Bob I thought I got a cool shop, lol; was I ever wrong....you got one cool shop, I grew up in a cabinet maker/beekeeper family, you my friend have one well set shop, I like the way you position all your stations.
@@bobbinnie9872 I admire your approach to beekeeping and when I've seen your shop, that confirmed to me that you are a hardworking individual. I employ quite a few of your methods and enjoy. I grew up back in Romania in a beekeepers/woodworking family and I relate to your approach to your business. Dan
I think you just saved me a lot of money with how you do the back pieces. Question: is there a good reason to have the bottom board to where it can be flipped to reduce the opening height? Do you do that often? I was toying with the idea of just putting the rails on one side that way they could also be used in a pinch as a double screen board. Any thoughts on that? I usually reduce the opening by blocking off part of it. I can't think of a tike where I flipped the bottom.
We always use the 3/8 inch side but that's just my personal preference. These bottom boards are made so they can be reversible because they can be used by anybody. This type of plywood could be used with just strips on one side and hold up well but I have to say that this design is super tough and heavy duty.
Thank you for the reply. Building some now. I'll build like you have them and see how that goes. Already not having to make a slotted back rail is going to save a lot of wood. Thanks for sharing.
Great video. Could yall tell me the name of the measuring stop block fence on your miter saw. Its amazing and I gotta have one but I can't find nothing like it when I searched online.
Can you explain about your cut off saw stop fence. Where did you purchase the rail and stops? That is the best setup I have seen for cutting multiple lengths of boards consistently on the fly.
Bob, I see you glue and staple the back rail on. How well does it stay put. I would think wood glue would not hold well on the slick surface. I am wanting to pick up some hdo for lids and was wondering how to do pattie rim on underside. Its a pain when rim comes off when prying lids up.
We tried to find some HDO localy in NW louisiana a couple years ago but struck out..Even mdo was tough to find and that was a 7 hour drive and one sided. Ended up using some sub flooring but that didn't work out as well as the internet led me to believe. Is that stuff you buy two sided coated or just one side with the sellers label on the other?
Hi Don. It's two sided with the sellers brand name only on one side. Both sides are the same material but it appears to me that the side without print is a bit thicker so we always have that side facing the elements. It really is very tough. The place we buy it from tells us their best customers for this plywood are concrete wall and foundation contractors who in some cases use it over and over. It's the best stuff I've ever seen for lids and bottoms. Hope you can find some near you. Also, HDO is definitely better than MDO for beekeepers.
Bob, I know you've mentioned this in another video, I just can't remember your answer or find the video. You paint the end grain with oil based paint? 2 coats? Or one? Thx
Bob, somewhere in one of your building videos, I recall you talking about migratory lids and bee space. Specifically trim ( 3/8 in ? 1/4 in ?) under the lid or having the lid lay just flat ( Queen timing box) on the box. I cannot find that discussion anywhere on your site. Are you able to direct me to the video where you discuss the space between top of frames and bottom of the migratory lid? Thank you
I recall saying something about that but I don't remember which video. I believe I suggested that if I was going to put a rim on a flat lid permanently I would make it 1/4 inch in order to minimize burr comb.
You're the best! Thank you for taking the time to provide this information. I have learned so much from you and your staff over the years via the YT videos. @@bobbinnie9872
What brand and model of fence/spring stop system are you using for your radial arm saw? Do you have any issues with the stops slowly sliding out of position?
Those look like VERY nice quality bottom boards. 👍 I am still on the fence with respect to solid vs screened bottom boards. My preference is for solid but these middle Tennessee summers can get really hot. Screened bottom boards have their drawbacks but do provide much better ventilation & reduce bearding but I hate those corrugated plastic closer sheets. I am debating changing to solid bottom boards for the Winter & changing back for Summer but that seems like a LOT of extra work and hassle for the bees and me. I have some hives with solid bottoms that I remove the entrace reducer for more ventilation which helps but has some drawbacks and risks. How do you deal with ventilation with solid bottom boards?
Two techniques. On strong colonies with multiple supers we push the top super either forward or backwards exactly 3/4 inch which provides a full 3/8 entrance on one end but no opening on the other. If possible we put the open end on the shady side. Believe it or not this extra full upper entrance helps a little with swarming. At other times we simply move the lid forward or backward slightly so it is raised by resting on the strip we have under each end. Of course none of this is necessary if it's not hot.
@@bobbinnie9872 Where did you purchase the HDO plywood? For 150 - 250 hives, what are your thoughts on going with a standard wood bottom board built out of cypress lumber and wax dipped? HDO plywood is some tough material, I have some commercial hive lids made out of it that I have had for close to 10 years. I dip all of my boxes, telescoping covers, entrance reducers, honey supers. I am not sure if wax dipping HDO plywood is advised? The heat may ruin it. Never tried.
@@wrfarms9741 We get our HDO from Mid South Lumber, we just called them today to check stock and we're picking some up tomorrow after honey deliveries in Atlanta. 3/4 inch with Douglas Fir is $58.00 a sheet in a unit of 46. Their number is 1 800 759 3076. No need to dip in wax, just paint the end grain with a good quality oil base primer to seal it and it will out last anything. Dipped Cypress would do very well too but the HDO won't warp and will never split.
Bob, do you build your hive bodies as well? I saw the budget grade ones from ML just increased by over $4 but after pricing the lumber from a local supplier it's still cheaper for me to buy them without even taking my time and equipment to build them into account. These lumber prices are getting crazy.
I have used MDO in the past and it is good stuff that is made much the same way that HDO is. The main difference is that it doesn't have the durable outer veneer that HDO has. It is often used in sign making and as long it gets a good coat of paint it will give good service.
It looks like you add two end strips to the 3/4 side. I assume this is just so bees don't run up and under the bottom board? I didn't hear a reason or see it discussed but when you show the finished product, it looks like a second strip is attached on the end of the 3/4 side. If you used 3/4, I assume you would have 2 3/8 strips. Am I understanding your process correctly?
If they are to be sold in our store we make them a reversible entrance bottom board with a single 3/8 x 3/4 strip on one side and a single 3/4 x 3/4 strip on the other. This gives the customer a choice of which size entrance they want to use. If they are for our use we put two wider 3/4 strips on what will be the bottom and a single 3/8 x 3/4 strip on the top because we use only the 3/8 entrance side and we like to reinforce the bottom.
Hi bob thanks for this video. I am making 300 using hdo right now. My question is do you think it is necessary to paint the non-cut surfaces? I am trying primer and paint and it does not form a good bond in my opinion. If I paint only the cut surfaces will that be enough to last for several years?
Hi Bob, do you have any experience wax dipping HDO or formply? I have second hand formply from builders and i thought it might benefit from the treatment + a coat of paint. Thanks from Aus
I have not dipped used HDO or formply so I honestly don't know how it would do. I'm sure the wax wouldn't hurt a thing. I just don't know what the high temperature would do. Only one way to find out. Good luck.
I just got 4 sheets of this stuff from Mid South in Lakeland FL today. Why do you use the PT for the upper rear strip? (not enough HDO scrap?). I plan to build some of these bottoms and some tops. I love your wood shop, looks amazing! Also your channel has been a great find, keep up the great work. I'll be stopping by for some sourwood honey they next time I drive through the area.
Hi Brian. You're right, there's not enough scrap left. We do however occasionally use scraps of HDO in applications like this and it works great. The only thing we do to HDO in all uses is paint the end grain to seal it. The top, or smooth, surfaces don't need any paint or sealing. Thank you.
@@bobbinnie9872 so what about building a nuc completely out of 1/2 inch HDO form board? (I'm not sure if a rabbit cut would work in HDO) I'm in Florida and I'm a sideliner, wood cost is a bit prohibitive to make them like you do(which is what I'd prefer to do). I'm just tired of dumping nuc boxes after 4yr
@@Swampsquash HDO actually works good for about everything. I used to have a bunch of three frame nucs made with 3/4 in. ends and 1/2 in. sides which worked fine. You might consider 3/4 for the ends to help give you a full 3/8 frame rest.
Thanks. The type of HDO we use is far superior to advantech. It's almost twice the price but it's actually worth it in the long run. It lasts so much longer. It can also be challenging to find in some areas.
Bob Binnie at Blue Ridge Honey Company I live in Carrollton GEORGIA you come to speak at our young farmers meeting where do you buy the hdo from would like to try it
Hi Brian. I hadn't planned on one but it wouldn't be to much different than the nuc boxes. Same technique, different dimensions. Same length at 19-7/8. Width of 16-1/4 and height of 9-5/8 inches.
We have those bottom boards in our store, ready to use, at $23.75 ea. We don't have any HDO migratory lids in stock at the moment but will be making some this winter.
@@bobbinnie9872 do you have any lids yet was gonna try to make a trip down to you this week sometime. If you don't have any lids. Would u sell any sheets of that hdo board.
Every year is different. It depends on how many colonies we sell. If my memory serves me right last year we sold around 1350 nucs and 700 packages. This year was 685 nucs and and a few hundred packages.
Thats amazing! It may not seem like it at times I'm sure, but you are a very blessed man.. thank you for teaching so many of us to how to be successful beekeepers. You're making a positive impact in peoples lives. That's a good legacy to leave behind.
We have most of our bees on pallets and these do have clips. We call these our "traveling bees". About 25% of our bees are on permanent locations and don't get moved around and these are what we use these bottom boards for.
There is certainly a need for quality bottom boards. Another very large apiary manufacturer, Mann Lake, that generally produces high quality wooden ware produces pure junk for bottom boards. I have had virtually all delaminate the first season of use and many within weeks of first use. When notified of the problem, which I suspected were due to use of defective materials the company failed to even acknowledge my complaints and request for replacements. It’s time to look elsewhere for bottom boards. I have no affiliation with Blue Ridge.
Bottom boards by the big producers like Mannlake only last a few years. My issue is ants chewing through the stuff. So, I just started making my bottoms out of scrap wood wherever I could find it. If you know anyone in the construction business they're usually happy to get rid of the scraps because it cuts down on their disposal costs. I had a source but since Covid I've lost it. I need to find someone now. Problems it... No one is building new homes in my area.
A very impressive shop. Dad was a wood shop teacher (industrial arts, and now Technology Education, STEM).
He put together a small shop at the mountain house and did all kinds of projects.
He would be very impressed with your shop.
I like the feeder for the table saw. I really like the measuring stops on the radial arm saw. So cool. I was taught to clamp a block of wood and do it that way. I like yours much more.
Anyway, I would say the best way to make those 300 bottom boards is to make all the cuts at one time. You make the big bottom pieces first (300 of them). Then you cut the side rails second, and so on. I like that you use screws and you paint the exposed wood. Very well done!!!!!
Thanks. I too have used the block system many, many times.
Great Video,
What more could a DIY person ask for. Thanks for sharing your valuable knowledge.
Thank you.
Thank you! I'm new to bee keeping and make my own equipment. This is the Best instructions I have found for making bottom boards.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for sharing your experience. This is much appreciated and it is very instructive. One of the most important part of the beehive is the top cover There is a lot of different designs around. Here in Québec, Canada a lot if people use a mixed metal/wood top cover. But I've been attracted to the wood covers you use. They can use both pail feeder an jar feeder. If you could share your design with a video like this one for the bottom this would be much appreciated.
Great video! Well executed cut list, virtually zero waste. I need to come up to see your store. 25 hives and growing in Atlanta.
Hi Corey. Ask if I'm there If you come up. I'd be pleased to meet you.
Would love to see a video on your lids too.
Great video as always! That HDO plywood appears to be like finding a unicorn here in Fayetteville NC!
Try looking for MDO which is often used in sign making. The core is made the same way but you'll need to paint it.
Bob
I thought I got a cool shop, lol; was I ever wrong....you got one cool shop, I grew up in a cabinet maker/beekeeper family, you my friend have one well set shop, I like the way you position all your stations.
Thanks, I've been working at it awhile.
@@bobbinnie9872 I admire your approach to beekeeping and when I've seen your shop, that confirmed to me that you are a hardworking individual.
I employ quite a few of your methods and enjoy. I grew up back in Romania in a beekeepers/woodworking family and I relate to your approach to your business.
Dan
Outstanding Bob thank you for sharing. 🐝safe and keep your smoker lit!!!
Konrad
Thank you.
I think you just saved me a lot of money with how you do the back pieces.
Question: is there a good reason to have the bottom board to where it can be flipped to reduce the opening height?
Do you do that often?
I was toying with the idea of just putting the rails on one side that way they could also be used in a pinch as a double screen board.
Any thoughts on that?
I usually reduce the opening by blocking off part of it. I can't think of a tike where I flipped the bottom.
We always use the 3/8 inch side but that's just my personal preference. These bottom boards are made so they can be reversible because they can be used by anybody. This type of plywood could be used with just strips on one side and hold up well but I have to say that this design is super tough and heavy duty.
Thank you for the reply.
Building some now.
I'll build like you have them and see how that goes. Already not having to make a slotted back rail is going to save a lot of wood.
Thanks for sharing.
When are you going to give us a top cover construction video? :)
I would also love to see his migratory lid construction video
Great video. Could yall tell me the name of the measuring stop block fence on your miter saw. Its amazing and I gotta have one but I can't find nothing like it when I searched online.
It's from Maya. www.mayaposi-stop.com/
Bob Binnie at Blue Ridge Honey Company thanks! That is quite a nice wood shop.
Could you do video of your tops? Or at least the parts list.
I will try and get that done, thank you.
Great method and info - but I missed your voice. You have a great voice.
Thank you.
Can you explain about your cut off saw stop fence. Where did you purchase the rail and stops? That is the best setup I have seen for cutting multiple lengths of boards consistently on the fly.
Radial arm saw fence from. www.mayaposi-stop.com/
@@bobbinnie9872 Thankyou
Bob, I see you glue and staple the back rail on. How well does it stay put. I would think wood glue would not hold well on the slick surface. I am wanting to pick up some hdo for lids and was wondering how to do pattie rim on underside. Its a pain when rim comes off when prying lids up.
The glue seems to hold fine. We use Titebond 2 or 3. We have done what you are going to do a lot and have had good luck.
Thank you for sharing these valuable information. Do you use one sided or two sided HDO plywood?
It's two sided but one side is thicker than the other. It's great plywood for beekeepers but it's expensive.
We tried to find some HDO localy in NW louisiana a couple years ago but struck out..Even mdo was tough to find and that was a 7 hour drive and one sided. Ended up using some sub flooring but that didn't work out as well as the internet led me to believe. Is that stuff you buy two sided coated or just one side with the sellers label on the other?
Hi Don. It's two sided with the sellers brand name only on one side. Both sides are the same material but it appears to me that the side without print is a bit thicker so we always have that side facing the elements. It really is very tough. The place we buy it from tells us their best customers for this plywood are concrete wall and foundation contractors who in some cases use it over and over. It's the best stuff I've ever seen for lids and bottoms. Hope you can find some near you. Also, HDO is definitely better than MDO for beekeepers.
Oh, I am sorry those bottom boards are not for sale. Thanks for all the excellent videos!
Hi Ronald. They are for sale at our store in Lakemont.
Bob, I know you've mentioned this in another video, I just can't remember your answer or find the video. You paint the end grain with oil based paint? 2 coats? Or one? Thx
On HDO we mainly paint the end grain with one coat of a good oil base primer one or two coats of acrylic latex enamel.
Bob, somewhere in one of your building videos, I recall you talking about migratory lids and bee space. Specifically trim ( 3/8 in ? 1/4 in ?) under the lid or having the lid lay just flat ( Queen timing box) on the box. I cannot find that discussion anywhere on your site. Are you able to direct me to the video where you discuss the space between top of frames and bottom of the migratory lid? Thank you
I recall saying something about that but I don't remember which video. I believe I suggested that if I was going to put a rim on a flat lid permanently I would make it 1/4 inch in order to minimize burr comb.
You're the best! Thank you for taking the time to provide this information. I have learned so much from you and your staff over the years via the YT videos. @@bobbinnie9872
What brand and model of fence/spring stop system are you using for your radial arm saw? Do you have any issues with the stops slowly sliding out of position?
We purchased the fence parts from www.mayaposi-stop.com/. They never move and are excellent.
Awesome! Nice shop!
Those look like VERY nice quality bottom boards. 👍 I am still on the fence with respect to solid vs screened bottom boards. My preference is for solid but these middle Tennessee summers can get really hot. Screened bottom boards have their drawbacks but do provide much better ventilation & reduce bearding but I hate those corrugated plastic closer sheets. I am debating changing to solid bottom boards for the Winter & changing back for Summer but that seems like a LOT of extra work and hassle for the bees and me. I have some hives with solid bottoms that I remove the entrace reducer for more ventilation which helps but has some drawbacks and risks. How do you deal with ventilation with solid bottom boards?
Two techniques. On strong colonies with multiple supers we push the top super either forward or backwards exactly 3/4 inch which provides a full 3/8 entrance on one end but no opening on the other. If possible we put the open end on the shady side. Believe it or not this extra full upper entrance helps a little with swarming. At other times we simply move the lid forward or backward slightly so it is raised by resting on the strip we have under each end. Of course none of this is necessary if it's not hot.
@@bobbinnie9872 Where did you purchase the HDO plywood? For 150 - 250 hives, what are your thoughts on going with a standard wood bottom board built out of cypress lumber and wax dipped? HDO plywood is some tough material, I have some commercial hive lids made out of it that I have had for close to 10 years. I dip all of my boxes, telescoping covers, entrance reducers, honey supers. I am not sure if wax dipping HDO plywood is advised? The heat may ruin it. Never tried.
@@wrfarms9741 We get our HDO from Mid South Lumber, we just called them today to check stock and we're picking some up tomorrow after honey deliveries in Atlanta. 3/4 inch with Douglas Fir is $58.00 a sheet in a unit of 46. Their number is 1 800 759 3076. No need to dip in wax, just paint the end grain with a good quality oil base primer to seal it and it will out last anything. Dipped Cypress would do very well too but the HDO won't warp and will never split.
Great video! Could you possibly do covers next?
I'll try to do that soon. Thanks.
Yes, please do the lid video
Bob, do you build your hive bodies as well? I saw the budget grade ones from ML just increased by over $4 but after pricing the lumber from a local supplier it's still cheaper for me to buy them without even taking my time and equipment to build them into account. These lumber prices are getting crazy.
It seems all prices are getting crazy. Being a Mann Lake dealer helps a lot so that's what we're using now but I have built many boxes over the years.
Great video. Wondering if you've ever used MDO instead of HDO. If so, did you notice much difference?
I have used MDO in the past and it is good stuff that is made much the same way that HDO is. The main difference is that it doesn't have the durable outer veneer that HDO has. It is often used in sign making and as long it gets a good coat of paint it will give good service.
@@bobbinnie9872Thank you. As always, I appreciate your knowledge and willingness to share.
It looks like you add two end strips to the 3/4 side. I assume this is just so bees don't run up and under the bottom board? I didn't hear a reason or see it discussed but when you show the finished product, it looks like a second strip is attached on the end of the 3/4 side. If you used 3/4, I assume you would have 2 3/8 strips. Am I understanding your process correctly?
If they are to be sold in our store we make them a reversible entrance bottom board with a single 3/8 x 3/4 strip on one side and a single 3/4 x 3/4 strip on the other. This gives the customer a choice of which size entrance they want to use. If they are for our use we put two wider 3/4 strips on what will be the bottom and a single 3/8 x 3/4 strip on the top because we use only the 3/8 entrance side and we like to reinforce the bottom.
Those are some neat components!
Thanks.
Love your videos keep em coming
Thanks.
I wish I knew what stop system you're using on you fence.
www.mayaposi-stop.com/
Hi bob thanks for this video. I am making 300 using hdo right now. My question is do you think it is necessary to paint the non-cut surfaces? I am trying primer and paint and it does not form a good bond in my opinion. If I paint only the cut surfaces will that be enough to last for several years?
You're right, painting the surfaces does not work well. We only paint the edges and it lasts for years.
Hi Bob, do you have any experience wax dipping HDO or formply? I have second hand formply from builders and i thought it might benefit from the treatment + a coat of paint. Thanks from Aus
I have not dipped used HDO or formply so I honestly don't know how it would do. I'm sure the wax wouldn't hurt a thing. I just don't know what the high temperature would do. Only one way to find out. Good luck.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thanks Bob
I just got 4 sheets of this stuff from Mid South in Lakeland FL today. Why do you use the PT for the upper rear strip? (not enough HDO scrap?). I plan to build some of these bottoms and some tops. I love your wood shop, looks amazing! Also your channel has been a great find, keep up the great work. I'll be stopping by for some sourwood honey they next time I drive through the area.
Hi Brian. You're right, there's not enough scrap left. We do however occasionally use scraps of HDO in applications like this and it works great. The only thing we do to HDO in all uses is paint the end grain to seal it. The top, or smooth, surfaces don't need any paint or sealing. Thank you.
@@bobbinnie9872 so what about building a nuc completely out of 1/2 inch HDO form board? (I'm not sure if a rabbit cut would work in HDO) I'm in Florida and I'm a sideliner, wood cost is a bit prohibitive to make them like you do(which is what I'd prefer to do). I'm just tired of dumping nuc boxes after 4yr
@@Swampsquash HDO actually works good for about everything. I used to have a bunch of three frame nucs made with 3/4 in. ends and 1/2 in. sides which worked fine. You might consider 3/4 for the ends to help give you a full 3/8 frame rest.
Where are you purchasing your plywood from tried looking up mid south not really having luck finding near me wanting to make large amount
(706) 313-1200
6595 Marshall Blvd
Lithonia, GA 30058-8973
Thanks for posting!
I think I can speak for a great deal of people when I say we really appreciate your videos. Keep it up! How does this plywood compare to advantech?
Thanks. The type of HDO we use is far superior to advantech. It's almost twice the price but it's actually worth it in the long run. It lasts so much longer. It can also be challenging to find in some areas.
Bob Binnie at Blue Ridge Honey Company I live in Carrollton GEORGIA you come to speak at our young farmers meeting where do you buy the hdo from would like to try it
Advantech is junk for beekeeping equipment
I really liked it. Practical video. I will use it on my hives. I am from Russia. We do not have such inventions
I would love to see Russia.
Bob are you getting 10 bottoms or 10 lids per sheet? Thanks for videos
Yes to both.
Hi bob are you planning on a making deep box video im on my 2nd year of bee keeping and boy buying deep boxes is expensive?
Hi Brian. I hadn't planned on one but it wouldn't be to much different than the nuc boxes. Same technique, different dimensions. Same length at 19-7/8. Width of 16-1/4 and height of 9-5/8 inches.
I'd like to borrow John for a few weeks, have a bunch of stuff waiting till I have warmer weather to paint. :-)
Thanks. John likes your comment.
What price are you selling the bottom boards and lids for at your store. I'm only 2 hours away from u in East Tennessee.
We have those bottom boards in our store, ready to use, at $23.75 ea. We don't have any HDO migratory lids in stock at the moment but will be making some this winter.
@@bobbinnie9872 do you have any lids yet was gonna try to make a trip down to you this week sometime. If you don't have any lids. Would u sell any sheets of that hdo board.
What are these boards that will cut you to the underfloor, are they water resistant to moisture?
It's called HDO for "High Density Overlay" and it is water resistant. It's the best plywood for beekeepers that I know of.
I want to make the lids and the floors of this record, and I can't get it anywhere, in Serbia, nobody makes it
Sorry you can't get it. It's really good plywood.
Thanks mr Bob Binnie.
Hi Bob do you make your lids out of HDO as well?
Yes. It works great.
Can you say what your price per sheet for this is? I'm assuming there is a street price and a bulk price?
It's usually around $60.00 per sheet when purchased by the unit which is 46 sheets.
@@bobbinnie9872 Today's cost would be $120 after the enormous spike in lumber prices.
@@ordinaryguy6869 We're all feeling the bite from that one.
Hate to see what the bee equipment prices are going to be this year.
Awesome and easy to follow 🍺🍺
Thank you.
How many nucs do you guys sell in an average year?
Every year is different. It depends on how many colonies we sell. If my memory serves me right last year we sold around 1350 nucs and 700 packages. This year was 685 nucs and and a few hundred packages.
Thats amazing! It may not seem like it at times I'm sure, but you are a very blessed man.. thank you for teaching so many of us to how to be successful beekeepers. You're making a positive impact in peoples lives. That's a good legacy to leave behind.
Great video thanks 🐝🐝
Thank you.
I guess you do not use clip pallets?
We have most of our bees on pallets and these do have clips. We call these our "traveling bees". About 25% of our bees are on permanent locations and don't get moved around and these are what we use these bottom boards for.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thanks Bob you are doing great things in the bee world.Keep up the good work!
amazing
So you can get 10 from each sheet? Do not need 300 bottoms boards.
Yes, 10 from each sheet. We need many more than this each year.
There is certainly a need for quality bottom boards. Another very large apiary manufacturer, Mann Lake, that generally produces high quality wooden ware produces pure junk for bottom boards. I have had virtually all delaminate the first season of use and many within weeks of first use. When notified of the problem, which I suspected were due to use of defective materials the company failed to even acknowledge my complaints and request for replacements. It’s time to look elsewhere for bottom boards. I have no affiliation with Blue Ridge.
Bottom boards by the big producers like Mannlake only last a few years. My issue is ants chewing through the stuff. So, I just started making my bottoms out of scrap wood wherever I could find it.
If you know anyone in the construction business they're usually happy to get rid of the scraps because it cuts down on their disposal costs. I had a source but since Covid I've lost it. I need to find someone now. Problems it... No one is building new homes in my area.
Very nice
Thank you.
Good