This video shows how we produce heavy duty bottom boards for our commercial beekeeping operation and the tools we use. Radial arm saw fence from. www.mayaposi-stop.com/
There is certainly a need for quality bottom boards. Another very large apiary manufacturer, Mann Lake, that generally produces high quality wooden ware produces pure junk for bottom boards. I have had virtually all delaminate the first season of use and many within weeks of first use. When notified of the problem, which I suspected were due to use of defective materials the company failed to even acknowledge my complaints and request for replacements. It’s time to look elsewhere for bottom boards. I have no affiliation with Blue Ridge.
Thanks for sharing your experience. This is much appreciated and it is very instructive. One of the most important part of the beehive is the top cover There is a lot of different designs around. Here in Québec, Canada a lot if people use a mixed metal/wood top cover. But I've been attracted to the wood covers you use. They can use both pail feeder an jar feeder. If you could share your design with a video like this one for the bottom this would be much appreciated.
What brand and model of fence/spring stop system are you using for your radial arm saw? Do you have any issues with the stops slowly sliding out of position?
Can you explain about your cut off saw stop fence. Where did you purchase the rail and stops? That is the best setup I have seen for cutting multiple lengths of boards consistently on the fly.
Bob, somewhere in one of your building videos, I recall you talking about migratory lids and bee space. Specifically trim ( 3/8 in ? 1/4 in ?) under the lid or having the lid lay just flat ( Queen timing box) on the box. I cannot find that discussion anywhere on your site. Are you able to direct me to the video where you discuss the space between top of frames and bottom of the migratory lid? Thank you
Hi Bob, do you have any experience wax dipping HDO or formply? I have second hand formply from builders and i thought it might benefit from the treatment + a coat of paint. Thanks from Aus
It looks like you add two end strips to the 3/4 side. I assume this is just so bees don't run up and under the bottom board? I didn't hear a reason or see it discussed but when you show the finished product, it looks like a second strip is attached on the end of the 3/4 side. If you used 3/4, I assume you would have 2 3/8 strips. Am I understanding your process correctly?
Bob, I know you've mentioned this in another video, I just can't remember your answer or find the video. You paint the end grain with oil based paint? 2 coats? Or one? Thx
Great method and info - but I missed your voice. You have a great voice.
Could you do video of your tops? Or at least the parts list.
There is certainly a need for quality bottom boards. Another very large apiary manufacturer, Mann Lake, that generally produces high quality wooden ware produces pure junk for bottom boards. I have had virtually all delaminate the first season of use and many within weeks of first use. When notified of the problem, which I suspected were due to use of defective materials the company failed to even acknowledge my complaints and request for replacements. It’s time to look elsewhere for bottom boards. I have no affiliation with Blue Ridge.
When are you going to give us a top cover construction video? :)
Would love to see a video on your lids too.
Great video as always! That HDO plywood appears to be like finding a unicorn here in Fayetteville NC!
Thanks for sharing your experience. This is much appreciated and it is very instructive. One of the most important part of the beehive is the top cover There is a lot of different designs around. Here in Québec, Canada a lot if people use a mixed metal/wood top cover. But I've been attracted to the wood covers you use. They can use both pail feeder an jar feeder. If you could share your design with a video like this one for the bottom this would be much appreciated.
What brand and model of fence/spring stop system are you using for your radial arm saw? Do you have any issues with the stops slowly sliding out of position?
I'd like to borrow John for a few weeks, have a bunch of stuff waiting till I have warmer weather to paint. :-)
What price are you selling the bottom boards and lids for at your store. I'm only 2 hours away from u in East Tennessee.
Can you explain about your cut off saw stop fence. Where did you purchase the rail and stops? That is the best setup I have seen for cutting multiple lengths of boards consistently on the fly.
I think you just saved me a lot of money with how you do the back pieces.
Great video. Wondering if you've ever used MDO instead of HDO. If so, did you notice much difference?
Bob, somewhere in one of your building videos, I recall you talking about migratory lids and bee space. Specifically trim ( 3/8 in ? 1/4 in ?) under the lid or having the lid lay just flat ( Queen timing box) on the box. I cannot find that discussion anywhere on your site. Are you able to direct me to the video where you discuss the space between top of frames and bottom of the migratory lid? Thank you
Hi Bob, do you have any experience wax dipping HDO or formply? I have second hand formply from builders and i thought it might benefit from the treatment + a coat of paint. Thanks from Aus
It looks like you add two end strips to the 3/4 side. I assume this is just so bees don't run up and under the bottom board? I didn't hear a reason or see it discussed but when you show the finished product, it looks like a second strip is attached on the end of the 3/4 side. If you used 3/4, I assume you would have 2 3/8 strips. Am I understanding your process correctly?
Thank you for sharing these valuable information. Do you use one sided or two sided HDO plywood?
Bob, I know you've mentioned this in another video, I just can't remember your answer or find the video. You paint the end grain with oil based paint? 2 coats? Or one? Thx
I wish I knew what stop system you're using on you fence.
Good