Thank you, Thank you, Thank you for your amazing, simple, straight forward explanation!! I have loved watching each and every video you have posted. Your style of no fluff just solid information from a man you can tell has kept bees for many years. There is so much info out that is sideways and full of holes. Please keep sharing your wisdom with us we need your kind of help!!
@@bobbinnie9872 Question about entrance. I have heard you say that you like to use the 3/8" size but do you have a reducer built into your bottom boards if so to what size do you recommend reducing it down to?
Sorry for not including in last question but do you find the bees able to keep the hive cool in the Georgia summer without top ventilation? I'm not far from you and really appreciate the advise from someone in my region.
Hi Donovan. We do not use an entrance reducer unless it's a small colony in which case we we usually reduce down to 2 inches. Also, we don't have problems with temperature with a 3/8 entrance but if you want more air simply prop up the lid in the rear with a small 3/8 thick stick during hot weather.
Great video, a lot of beekeepers don't understand things and work wrong and only create more problems for themselves and bees ..... bottom boards are a tool that regulates the microclimate of the hive ... there is no universal solution, but things must be done according to the target effect taking into account about environmental conditions. Greetings from Croatia!
Thanks Bob! You verified what I am seeing. I'm just a 5th year hobbyist beekeeper. I've made a LOT of mistakes. IMO screened bottom boards was one of them. I just built the last batch of solid bottom boards to convert all my hives. I have three main issues with screened boards - 1) OAV has higher measured efficacy on my solid board hives 2) my solid board hives seem to use more of the brood nest versus leaving space at bottom and 3) I am convinced the light flooding in the bottom of the hive is not beneficial - especially for new splits.
It has been our experience that when installing a new queen into a hive with a screened bottom board, there are occasions when the queen will leave. This can be when adding a package, re-queening, replacing a lost queen, etc. Queens don't care for light and the additional light from the open screen can result in her leaving. Our suggestion when using a screened bottom board is to be sure the insert is installed until the queen begins to lay.
Bob, There is no need for grass 2B growing up through screen bottom boards. We use old skidder tires (24" wide) laid on their side. Gives just the right distance to protect the beekeepers back from not bending over too far, protects from dampness of the ground, and lends protection against other insects and varmints. Low to the ground a skunk can rub its tail at the entrance then go off and eat the bees out of its tail. However, if a skunk, racoon, or possum has to raise up a couple of feet to reach the entrance. .then the bees can easily sting them in their not so hairy underbelly and run them off. JE Rish
This is a pretty gutsy video, even though you didn't attempt to take sides. Thanks for stepping out with good information for both and encouraging BK to choose what works best for them.
Hey Bob, thanks for the info. I am a serious screen bottom user with about 50 ten frame hives plus 12 to 25 nucs depending on season and all with screen bottoms. I build my own equipment and began using Slatted Racks above the bottom board about 6 years ago , early build up good ventilation and heavy brooding in bottom box was the result. I don't place hives lower than 18 inches so weeds are not a problem . Overall I could not be happier with this set up but I don't try to convince anyone what to use, and we really enjoy your contributions! Great luck, Mickey from Nashville, Tn.
Hi Mickey. I really like the idea of slatted rack with a screen bottom board. Sounds like the best of both worlds. Wish I would have mentioned them in the video. Thanks.
I use the screened bottom board with the insert. If the temperature is going to be below 60 I put the insert all the way in so the bees can keep warm. If 60 to 70 I put the insert half way in. Above 70 I take it out. My hive get direct sun for about half the day and is white. Now, I am a hobbiest and currently only have one hive so my girls get lots of TLC. I had not been paying attention to humidity levels so will factor that into consideration for my insert adjustments.
I really appreciate how you present all sides of the argument for and against without negativity. I have a screen bottom board with the slide out tray only because it gets so hot (and dry) in my location and I want to see how this colony does with the setup. In the cold months I do plan on tweaking it.
Thank you for the information Bob! I am a first year beekeeper and after your video I actually decided to go with solid rather than screened. Your experience coupled with the science that you sited was very convincing. Thank you for your approach and explanation on this contentious beekeeping option.
This is Kelly I'm in California. We use 4 way pallets bottom board .I take my bee to the California dessert for varna control and desert blossom honey .after the king bloom of the almond groves .Kels
I’m so glad I watched this for the third time in about a year. I live near the Gulf Coast and we don’t have winter..... we have two seasons, summer and not summer this past February’s weeklong freeze being a once in a lifetime event in my 55 years. The point you make about things falling through the screen attracting ants is a very good point seeing that we have fire ants from hell here, however we have temperatures in the upper 90s and lower 100s from approximately mid May through sometimes early October with humidity or shall I say relative humidity in the low 80s to upper 90 percent about 50 weeks out of the year, maybe that’s an exaggeration but not much of one. Lots of folks keep small chickens, some even keep quail if they can in their yards to try to control small hive Beatles Using the birds to eat pupae . Thanx. Enjoy your videos. Starting my first 2 hives at end of April unless I catch a swarm before then. 🙊🙉🙈👍🐝🐝🐝 P.S. Anyone North of the Sabine River I consider a Yankee! 😂😂😂🤣🤠
We have fire ants, and I wondered what would happen if a fire ant tried to go in the hive (I have the narrow excluder on all my hives). I saw a fire ant crawling around on the landing board. It made a dash for the opening, and the guard bee literally picked the ant up and threw it several inches! The ant decided to go do something else after that. An interesting aside, I wonder if having ants in the vicinity of the hive would impact varroa infestations. As in reduce them since ants are formic acid factories. Would be interesting if someone had studied that.
I have two regrets in my beekeeping. First I wish I had never used screened bottom boards. They cause more problems than anything. Complete waste of money. I look at the insert after mite treatments to see what kind of drop I got from the oav. Otherwise worthless IMO. Second regret is not using acorn plastic foundation from the start for my supers. I started out with just standard wax foundation.
B. Mobus did the research into these open mesh boards as a way of improving wintering. Nothing to do with Varroa. The paper was peer reviewed and published in the ABJ.
I use screen bottom boards but I have the timber in the stand covering most of the board underneath so it's basically a screen bottom but solid mostly underneat the screen
I prefer 3/8 because a mouse generally cannot get in but can with 3/4. There is also much less burr comb (ladder comb) on the bottom bars in the lower box and there is less draft in the winter so I don't usually need entrance reducers. As for ventilation on hot days in summer I simply crack the lid a bit.
Bob, thanks for the video. The sole reason I use screens is ventilation. I'm south of you in Warren Robins area. Summers get nasty with heat and humidity. Would love to know your thoughts on alternatives for ventilation. I noticed what you were saying about bees not being at the bottom of frames. Never thought about the reason. Thanks for that. I've looked at building a pole barn type roof to help with heat control too. Have you noticed pro or cons for that? Wish I was still up in NE GA. Actually grew up in Lakemont-Wiley area.
Hi Troy. We used to take bees just south of you to Unadilla for cotton honey and overwintering. Pulling honey down there in August can really put you to the test. When we want extra ventilation we push the the top super back 3/4 inch to create a 3/8 inch entrance in the front or prop up the rear of the lid with a pencil size stick.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thanks for the tip. That makes sense from a heat flow stand point. In August, I find myself asking "why did I get into this again". Did you have to take measures to prevent robbing by having the openings or did the bees pretty much take care of things themselves? I always try to keep an open mind on different methods and am willing to to things. Honestly that's how you make discoveries. I really do like your videos. They have provided views on how to manage bees I never thought of. Thanks for the response.
Thank you. It is very informative. I was wondering if you can share your views on screened inner covers during summer months: 1. Does extra light in the colony affects the colony 2. Does extra ventilation on the top of the colony in summer good for the bees? 3. Does pheromone level get reduced ? 4. Does honey production get changed somehow ? 5. Anything else ? Thank you.
A late comment on this question. I have always used screened bottom boards, first because it was how I was taught and second because we have very hot (but dry) summers and I figured the added ventilation would be helpful (I also have screened inner covers I put on when the extreme heat hits.). My honey yields were poor this year because a couple of our main flows were knocked down by weather. I also had a lot of first year hives from splits and swarms that did not build a lot of stores. As a result the robbing has been as bad as I have ever seen. I noticed that robbers were drawn to the screened bottom boards and covers by the honey smell. It is easy to pull the screened inner covers but not the bottom boards. As a result I have decided to rotate out the screens bottoms opportunistically and replace them with solids. Just one guy’s experience, FWIW.
You mentioned black foundations , are this plastic foundations? If so aren’t you Concerned about the brake down of plastic over time and contaminating the honey with micro plastic. Plastic of any grade is made from nasty chemicals. The same concern should be by using flow hives. Cheers
It is black plastic foundation. And as with anything made from plastic (most of what we touch) there's a cost and a risk. The plastic foundation we use is made from food grade plastic which helps.
Hi Bob Iv still not found the Queen, but it’s laying brood, so she’s in there somewhere. Right the question is, if I have 2 or more weak hives can I add a double Queen excluder between the brood boxes so I can utilise the workers to build out the hives
If you are referring to setting a weak hive over a strong colony to gain more bees the answer is yes. Excluders used with a sheet of newspaper with a thin cut in them work for this. Once they have gained some population you can move them away.
@@bobbinnie9872 that’s really cool, I need more workers to build out the combs as I’m a first year Beekeeper, I purchased a hive in a nuc, it is strong with Queen cells capped, 1 is a swarm cell and the other is a supersedure cell location I was wanting to utilise the queens to build more hives, I moved two Queen cells the other day to my incubator and now there are two more, so Iv added another brood box and a super, and Iv added a roof feeding system like yours, I plan to move the 2 capped qc to the upper bb with a Queen excluder What are your thoughts on this please
I really wish I could have found your video first. Amazing through easy and straight forward advice. I like the fact that you have a shop and you have tried both but you give the best possible outcome, of what you want!!!
I had the same thoughts as you on the humidity control. An open bottom allows the moisture to evaporate and dissipate too quickly which in turn would make the bees work harder at getting more water to cool the hive or maintain humidity. I stopped using screened bottom boards after my first season as a beekeeper. Subscribed.
Thanks. A mouse generally cannot pass through a 3/8 hole and we don't like the extra draft in the winter. If it gets hot in the summer we will crack the lid to allow more ventilation so I don't think we need the larger entrance.
I have noticed SAME thing about slower build up. I have 2 inch foam on top my big hives to help cool.Also people don't realize they may ventilate,but sbb also has All the moisture escaping ground going into , Good Video
Hello Mr. Binnie, I agree, I've been thinking about this for a while too. I think it's harder for the bees to keep the hives cool with the screened bottom boards. It's kind of like running the AC with a wall missing. I'm in Eastern Texas and it gets really hot. Yesterday, the heat index was 108F, with 37% humidity. This Fall, I plan to change them out. Also, if I can smell the hives when I walk into the apiary, I imagine robbers can smell them from way off. Here are the bees working to keep the hive cool with a screened bottom board. ua-cam.com/video/cxTceNfhy34/v-deo.html
Since I am in Canada and our summer is short and winters are long so I am a solid bottom board it never gets that hot here in summer. So that said I use a solid bottom board all year long I donot own a screened bottom board my 2 cents worth
I have for all stationary hives the 3 version of the screen bottom boards. But in winter time in top of the slide part I put 3cm of polystyrene cover up in newspaper 📰 and will be isolated for winter very well. Important is the distance between slide and mesh should be enough to fit at list 3cm of polystyrene. I have hives woh 5 cm because in winter hey are hit by a heavy wind. But in summer is very useful especially late June , July and August. After that I put the slides back. In spring fro sure you have to keep slides inside and even the polystyrene until mid May. Just for the same reason as you mention to have. a fast build up colony. I do the mite treatments on the tray and any other fumigation. It’s ventilation. Is mite control. A bit of all. You have to limit your self to weather and where you live them or if you are close to the bee yards to keep an eye on it. Bob do industrial system and for sure only solid bottom boards is needed. Same as I have for pastoral trucks. It’s all solid but screens above with no lids in summer 😂😂😂
Hey Bob, Let me start by saying thank you for all that you have taught me and continue to teach. I am a first year keeper and find your videos so helpful. I also really enjoy seeing what's going on around your shop/store. It's been a while since this video was posted, and I am curious to know if you still have the same opinion? I wholeheartedly trust and value your opinion. Thanks
I agree about the galvanised screen, in the UK we have mainly stainless steel, and for DIYers there is a specialist company that sell the screen at the correct measurements.
Hi Daniel. We don't use essential oils very much because we don't see much of a need for them. When we do we tend to use "Honey B Healthy" or Mann Lakes "Pro Health".
Thank you very much for the answer. I have been following you for a long time and I am impressed by your skill and knowledge in the field of beekeeping. I confess that I learned a lot of interesting things. Congratulations on what you are doing. Only good. P. S .: What essential oils do the two products contain: "Honey B Healthy" or Mann Lakes "Pro Health".
@@Daniel-ox9hy Hi Daniel. The main ingredients in Honey B Healthy are lemongrass oil and spearmint oil. Pro Health has the same with the addition of a smaller amount of thymol. Thanks.
Is it possible to switch from a solid bottom to a screened bottom only while doing powdered sugar treatments and then go back to solid bottoms or will the bees not like the different environment?? Thanks so much for all your advise!
For someone like me that doesn't know much. Would the screen bottom board be good for cleaning the bottom. With the pull out white plastic it can be pulled out cleaned and put back. I am thinking of someone with just a small number of hives. I also thought that a peace of light plywood under the screen bottom with the plastic in there would be better at keeping in the heat in the winter and can be removed in the spring. I understand for a big system with a lot of hives this is something more to do and keep track of. But for someone with only 2 to 8 hives it would not be that big of a problem. I must tell you I don't have any bees yet, I am learning by watching the videos. So if what I ask sounds like I don't know much it is because I don't know much. Just trying to think of things that could help.
IMHO with screened bottom board you have to have top of the hive without a ventilation + 1mm aluminum screen. To prevent many problems there should be 6-7cm form screen to a frame.
I think you're right and will probably switch from alluding tray to solid on all my hives. One thing I will miss though is after an OA vape looking to see the mite drop on the sliding drawer the next day. Instead of counting mites in all my hives I could just vapor them all once and if there are none or just a few mites that dropped I will know I don't need to treat it. If there's higher mite drops then I can do a wash on those hives. This seems faster than doing mite counts on all the hives in the apiary. Any thoughts on this? I know a mite drop is not an accurate percentage count but it does show a lot.
You're right that a screen bottom makes it easier to monitor mites. Many people use them for that alone. And if you are familiar with what to expect relative to your colony size it ca be a great tool.
Why can't you have a solid bottom board, that has a screen above it and a pull out tray as well? Why not combine the best of both - the only thing you wouldn't have is the increased ventilation - but you could monitor for mites, but have the solid bottom board "feel" as far as the bees are concerned - dark, sealed and not have the drop of material under the hive.
We have high humidity and lots of rain at times in western NC which causes ventilation nightmares. I have used solid bottom boards for 30 years and screened bottom boards for the last 10. I do use the slide in covers through the winter and shim the top cover year around to try to help control condensation. You have brought up some things i have not considered and I am heading back to solid bottoms for some splits this year. I like the smaller opening in the hive entrance but still see gnawing of the comb at the bottom of the hives. I have reversed my deeps twice this year and have noticed that the queen likes living upstairs. The brood patterns are better and the gnawing isn’t as bad. And the solids last longer while the screened ones have too many places for decay to get a foothold....yes i am not the best carpenter. I may go back to solids completely this fall. Your presentation was excellent and your points well taken. I just have been having 2nd thoughts about this topic for the last year.
We use screen bottoms on our hives with trees of diatomaceous earth to help control our small hive beetle population. We live in Hawaii so we don't have varroa mites as of yet. Any recommendations on keeping hive beetles at bay? Currently trying vegetable oil traps in conjunction with our diatomaceous earth trays.
Thankfully we do not have a hive beetle problem bad enough for us to have to resort to treatments. We do use yards with full sun when possible. I definitely see more beetles in shady locations. I have been shown examples of folded Clorox Handy Wipes catching hundreds of beetles when placed in strategic locations in the hive. It seems they get stuck in them. I had a friend that had a bad problem with beetles and he soaked the the ground around his hives with Guard Star and he said the problem went away. Like me he doesn't like using chemicals on anything but he was desperate. I've wondered if copious amounts of diatomaceous earth or pulverized lime spread under the hives would have the same affect. I have a friend who kept bees up the cost from Hilo and he said the beetles wiped him out. I wish you good Luck.
@@bobbinnie9872 I would be cautious about using Diatomaceous Earth open on the ground around hives since it will kill any bees that end up contacting it, and possibly get carried into the hive, killing more as they clean each other etc.
Since I am trying make some of my hive components myself, I prefer solid bottom boards because they are faster and cheaper to produce. One of reasons why are screened bottom boards relativly popular here in Europe is that you can get financial support from EU for them (about 30% of their price here in Czech rep.), which make them cost roughtly the same as solid ones. Because of that most of bottom board sold at stores (at least here in Czech rep.) are screened ones.
Getting ready to build 5 bottom boards. I now know which ones I'm going to build. Thanks it will save me time and materials . I live in Texas and have always been nervous of heat build up on the 100 plus days. Going to use a SCREENED top board with vent holes ABOVE the top board, Any other thoughts on ventilation.
@@bobbinnie9872 Top board is built 3/4 high 3/4 wide in the middle is a 1/8th groove for the 1/8th board with a 2"hole in center with a screen over it. Screen facing up cut aprox 1 inch long x 3/8 deep from the TOP of the outer rail The feeder jar should sit right on top of the center 22" screen. You can cut 1or more 1"x3/8 from all sides if you chose, Most top covers do not fit tight enough to block these holes and the bees can not get out. Sorry I'm not real good at explaining things. Please tell me ANY CONS you may see to this way. Thanks Dennis
Hello David, great video. I have a flow hive 2. Have you seen their screen bottom boards? One one side, it has trays, and when flipped over, it becomes a bottom board cutting off all ventilation. Do you think this is a better improvement to screen bottom boards? I really appreciate your opinions.
@@bobbinnie9872 Oh no worries. What makes the FlowHive Bottom board so unique, especially for backyard beekeepers, is that if has a long 3inch bottom tray where you can add oil or wood ships and has a back board to either bring in ventilation or completely shut it out. The cool thing is this bottom tray can be flipped over and used to completely seal off the bottom where no air came come in. So in some sorts, the have created a mix of both worlds. It's a great hive for me being a backyard beekeeper. Thanks. If you care to take a look at it, here is a short video. Enjoy. ua-cam.com/video/ADPaZ8w1Umg/v-deo.html
Outstanding post. Thank you for this. I am a new keeper and need to purchase some additional equipment and will shift from the screened BB to solid. Question for you. Why do you prefer to use the 3/8" side vs the 3/4?
A mouse generally can't squeeze through a 3/8 entrance so you don't need mouse guards in winter and there is much less bridge comb between the frame bottom bars in the bottom box and the bottom board. You also are less likely to need entrance reducers in winter. When I started commercial beekeeping on the west coast I rarely saw 3/4 entrances and concluded they weren't necessary.
I was given a lot of stuff. Most of the bottoms had screens. Over the years I found that solid bottoms, no inner covers, and migratory outer covers is the way to go. Briefly tried canvas inner covers and also reflectix. Inner covers really do nothing for a properly constructed hive with the right bee space. They do give hive beetles a place to congregate.
We do it the same way you are. I know many beekeepers prefer screened, and probably for their own good reasons, but if you read the comments for this video you will see the majority prefer solid.
@@bobbinnie9872 I'm in east central illinois. What works for me can't be universal. Beetles here are hit and miss. We have bad years but not every year.
Mike Ries So you don’t use anything under the migratory top? I do duck canvas on some, and regular inner covers on others. I use the migratory lids in winter here in Wisconsin so I can push the hives together before I wrap them. I’m considering using them all year round, so would like to leave out the inner cover if I can.
Very knowledgeable and very well explained. However I noticed that you didn't discuss screened bottoms use in small hive beetle control. I have found them to be very effective in destroying beetles.
I am new to beekeeping just starting this year. The kits I bought all have screened bottom boards because that's what the person I bought them from uses (he has ~2k hives, I figure he must know something). I went to a local class and the instructor told me some of the same things Mr Binnie said about the closed bottom boards, and she was moving to those. I saw several small hive beetles in her hives. I haven't seen a single one in mine so far. I'm not sure about using closed bottom boards here, temps are often over 100 in the summer, humidity today is 60%, it's freaking hot, and my hives are on concrete blocks which form a solid foundation with no gaps, so no air underneath. Concrete in the sun here gets so hot you could cook an egg on it. I am thinking instead of using just the inserts this winter, using some foam board insulation or something underneath them, as those inserts do seem flimsy and not very warm. One thing I will say about ventilation - the better it is, the less disease there typically is, at least with humans. I would imagine that might apply to bees too. As for them being closed up in a tree - a tree is not a box. The box is too thin to provide the same sort of insulation that a tree would. Therefore, I would think that temperature control would be much more difficult in a closed-up box than in a closed-up tree.
I use screen bottom boards in the summer it gets really hot here in Arizona I just feel it's necessary thing to use if it wasn't for the heat I wouldn't use them what do you think about the way I'm doing with the bottom boards I change them out in the winter and put solid board thank you for your videos
Great discussion. Good points on both sides. I live just north of Charlotte, NC, and will stick with my screened bottom board. I do have a resource hive with a solid bottom board that I am using for the first time this year. It may cause me to change over.
I have not ever used polystyrene hives. I wonder if they hold greater amounts of condensation. If they do screen bottom boards could be helpful. Combating condensation is one of the strong points of screen bottom boards.
@@bobbinnie9872 I'm in Anderson, South Carolina. Still gathering information on bees. I'm actually browsing through right now and trying to get registered for some beginner classes. Your accent made me feel like you were probably pretty close by!
Hi, i’m a new beekeeper, could you help me out by answering a question? I want to put a screen bottom base on a beehive, but right now all my hives have screen top cover. Would you recommend a top, bottom, or both? Which one is better? Thank you.
I’m sorry to bother you again. Yesterday i put only 1 screen on the bottom board and today i checked it and under the screen there are a lot of bees all together, do you know what I need to do?
@@jorgogjika646 One of the potential problems with screened bottoms is what you are describing. Confused bees cluster under the screen instead of using the entrance. They will figure it out in time and start using the entrance.
@@bobbinnie9872 why not both in summer ? We have high humidity in NoVA during summer months. What are possible problems ? I had noticed that since I placed them both, there is no beard, but I am a newbie and, surely, do not have anything to compare to.
@@bobbinnie9872 have you ever heard or used Varroa Tester 3 in 1 - you use powder sugar instead of alcohol. You keep those 300 bees alive and throw them back to the hive after test.
Spot on! Thanks for your experience and honest insight to this 'over debated' subject. Common sense rules! When I still was assessing their use, I experienced wax moths will lay eggs/cocoons under the screen board and the when the larva emerge they are small enough to enter the hive through the screen. Also, during robbing season the hives with the open bottoms were constantly harassed as their smells were wide open and very attractive to bees, wasps, yellow jackets. Thanks for taking the time to make all your videos. We all benefit from your knowledge and experience.
The purpose of the natural mite drop using a screened bottom board is to provide an initial assessment of the infestation at a time when it is too early in the season to perform other tests. It is an estimate, just as other tests provide especially since most varroa mites will reproduce in sealed brood when it is available.
With 3/8 mice generally can't get through, there is less of a need for entrance reducers in winter, less burr comb or "ladder comb" between bottom bars on frames and the bottom board because it is closer to proper bee space, and last but not least when I got started in Southern Oregon everyone I knew, both small and large, were using 3/8. I never saw anyone use a 3/4 entrance until I moved to Georgia where most beekeepers seem to use them.
@@bobbinnie9872 , I have had the same experience with the burr comb. With the 3/4" spacing, the burr comb gets so bad sometimes I cannot pull the frame out of the box without destroying a lot of cells on the neighboring frames.
Dear Bob, you are very helpful. I find your talks extremely knowledgeable and you are speaking from real world experience. Thanks.
Glad they are helping.
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you for your amazing, simple, straight forward explanation!! I have loved watching each and every video you have posted. Your style of no fluff just solid information from a man you can tell has kept bees for many years. There is so much info out that is sideways and full of holes. Please keep sharing your wisdom with us we need your kind of help!!
Hi Donovan. Thanks for the comment.
@@bobbinnie9872 Question about entrance. I have heard you say that you like to use the 3/8" size but do you have a reducer built into your bottom boards if so to what size do you recommend reducing it down to?
Sorry for not including in last question but do you find the bees able to keep the hive cool in the Georgia summer without top ventilation? I'm not far from you and really appreciate the advise from someone in my region.
Hi Donovan. We do not use an entrance reducer unless it's a small colony in which case we we usually reduce down to 2 inches. Also, we don't have problems with temperature with a 3/8 entrance but if you want more air simply prop up the lid in the rear with a small 3/8 thick stick during hot weather.
Great video, a lot of beekeepers don't understand things and work wrong and only create more problems for themselves and bees ..... bottom boards are a tool that regulates the microclimate of the hive ... there is no universal solution, but things must be done according to the target effect taking into account about environmental conditions. Greetings from Croatia!
Thanks Bob! You verified what I am seeing. I'm just a 5th year hobbyist beekeeper. I've made a LOT of mistakes. IMO screened bottom boards was one of them. I just built the last batch of solid bottom boards to convert all my hives. I have three main issues with screened boards - 1) OAV has higher measured efficacy on my solid board hives 2) my solid board hives seem to use more of the brood nest versus leaving space at bottom and 3) I am convinced the light flooding in the bottom of the hive is not beneficial - especially for new splits.
My goodness I'm glad I just came across this!!!! Good info thank you
It has been our experience that when installing a new queen into a hive with a screened bottom board, there are occasions when the queen will leave. This can be when adding a package, re-queening, replacing a lost queen, etc. Queens don't care for light and the additional light from the open screen can result in her leaving. Our suggestion when using a screened bottom board is to be sure the insert is installed until the queen begins to lay.
Thanks for the info, Kenny Rogers!
I dont have varroa, but I am seeing that in my hot humid climate it reduces impacts of small hive beetles.
Bob, There is no need for grass 2B growing up through screen bottom boards. We use old skidder tires (24" wide) laid on their side. Gives just the right distance to protect the beekeepers back from not bending over too
far, protects from dampness of the ground, and lends protection against other insects and varmints. Low to the
ground a skunk can rub its tail at the entrance then go off and eat the bees out of its tail. However, if a skunk,
racoon, or possum has to raise up a couple of feet to reach the entrance. .then the bees can easily sting them in their not so hairy underbelly and run them off. JE Rish
This is a pretty gutsy video, even though you didn't attempt to take sides. Thanks for stepping out with good information for both and encouraging BK to choose what works best for them.
Hey Bob, thanks for the info. I am a serious screen bottom user with about 50 ten frame hives plus 12 to 25 nucs depending on season and all with screen bottoms. I build my own equipment and began using Slatted Racks above the bottom board about 6 years ago , early build up good ventilation and heavy brooding in bottom box was the result. I don't place hives lower than 18 inches so weeds are not a problem . Overall I could not be happier with this set up but I don't try to convince anyone what to use, and we really enjoy your contributions! Great luck, Mickey from Nashville, Tn.
Hi Mickey. I really like the idea of slatted rack with a screen bottom board. Sounds like the best of both worlds. Wish I would have mentioned them in the video. Thanks.
I use the screened bottom board with the insert. If the temperature is going to be below 60 I put the insert all the way in so the bees can keep warm. If 60 to 70 I put the insert half way in. Above 70 I take it out. My hive get direct sun for about half the day and is white. Now, I am a hobbiest and currently only have one hive so my girls get lots of TLC. I had not been paying attention to humidity levels so will factor that into consideration for my insert adjustments.
I really appreciate how you present all sides of the argument for and against without negativity. I have a screen bottom board with the slide out tray only because it gets so hot (and dry) in my location and I want to see how this colony does with the setup. In the cold months I do plan on tweaking it.
Thank you for the information Bob! I am a first year beekeeper and after your video I actually decided to go with solid rather than screened. Your experience coupled with the science that you sited was very convincing. Thank you for your approach and explanation on this contentious beekeeping option.
Glad it helped.
Same!
Thanks Binnie ! Excellent presentation . That’s why I buy my bees from You ! Again thanks
Another excellent video. Thanks for making these videos. You have a great manner of presenting info. Thanks!!
Thx Master, Now i understand why pro uses solid bottom!! U help me a lot👏🏻👍🏻
This is Kelly I'm in California. We use 4 way pallets bottom board .I take my bee to the California dessert for varna control and desert blossom honey .after the king bloom of the almond groves .Kels
In N. Ohio I use screened all year. Can get to 10 degrees F. No problems. I do keep the screen covered in winter. But only 4 hives.
I’m so glad I watched this for the third time in about a year. I live near the Gulf Coast and we don’t have winter..... we have two seasons, summer and not summer this past February’s weeklong freeze being a once in a lifetime event in my 55 years. The point you make about things falling through the screen attracting ants is a very good point seeing that we have fire ants from hell here, however we have temperatures in the upper 90s and lower 100s from approximately mid May through sometimes early October with humidity or shall I say relative humidity in the low 80s to upper 90 percent about 50 weeks out of the year, maybe that’s an exaggeration but not much of one. Lots of folks keep small chickens, some even keep quail if they can in their yards to try to control small hive Beatles Using the birds to eat pupae . Thanx. Enjoy your videos. Starting my first 2 hives at end of April unless I catch a swarm before then. 🙊🙉🙈👍🐝🐝🐝 P.S. Anyone North of the Sabine River I consider a Yankee! 😂😂😂🤣🤠
We have fire ants, and I wondered what would happen if a fire ant tried to go in the hive (I have the narrow excluder on all my hives). I saw a fire ant crawling around on the landing board. It made a dash for the opening, and the guard bee literally picked the ant up and threw it several inches! The ant decided to go do something else after that.
An interesting aside, I wonder if having ants in the vicinity of the hive would impact varroa infestations. As in reduce them since ants are formic acid factories. Would be interesting if someone had studied that.
I use screened bottom on most of my hives and I can verify every word of this video. Thank you
I live on the east coast of Florida about halfway down where it’s hot most of year and warm in the winter. That’s why I prefer screened bottom boards
I have two regrets in my beekeeping. First I wish I had never used screened bottom boards. They cause more problems than anything. Complete waste of money. I look at the insert after mite treatments to see what kind of drop I got from the oav. Otherwise worthless IMO. Second regret is not using acorn plastic foundation from the start for my supers. I started out with just standard wax foundation.
The screened bottom boards work well in Mediterranean type climates. We have hot summers so airflow helps.
B. Mobus did the research into these open mesh boards as a way of improving wintering. Nothing to do with Varroa. The paper was peer reviewed and published in the ABJ.
If a bee has to make 20,000 trips for a pound of honey saving it a3/8" walk each trip is 625 feet per pound
I use screen bottom boards but I have the timber in the stand covering most of the board underneath so it's basically a screen bottom but solid mostly underneat the screen
Man!!! I'd love your set up, but just a two car garage size for top bar hives.
Great video 😊 thanks
Amen to all what was said, my hives had the same results. Got rid of all my screens.
Why do you prefer 3/8" instead 3/4" on bottom board? Never have used or thought about the 3/8"
I prefer 3/8 because a mouse generally cannot get in but can with 3/4. There is also much less burr comb (ladder comb) on the bottom bars in the lower box and there is less draft in the winter so I don't usually need entrance reducers. As for ventilation on hot days in summer I simply crack the lid a bit.
@@bobbinnie9872 gonna give that a try when I get back home. Thanks Bob.
A very detailed, thorough and informative presentation. Thank you!
Thanks.
Bob, thanks for the video. The sole reason I use screens is ventilation. I'm south of you in Warren Robins area. Summers get nasty with heat and humidity. Would love to know your thoughts on alternatives for ventilation. I noticed what you were saying about bees not being at the bottom of frames. Never thought about the reason. Thanks for that. I've looked at building a pole barn type roof to help with heat control too. Have you noticed pro or cons for that? Wish I was still up in NE GA. Actually grew up in Lakemont-Wiley area.
Hi Troy. We used to take bees just south of you to Unadilla for cotton honey and overwintering. Pulling honey down there in August can really put you to the test. When we want extra ventilation we push the the top super back 3/4 inch to create a 3/8 inch entrance in the front or prop up the rear of the lid with a pencil size stick.
@@bobbinnie9872
Thanks for the tip. That makes sense from a heat flow stand point. In August, I find myself asking "why did I get into this again". Did you have to take measures to prevent robbing by having the openings or did the bees pretty much take care of things themselves? I always try to keep an open mind on different methods and am willing to to things. Honestly that's how you make discoveries. I really do like your videos. They have provided views on how to manage bees I never thought of. Thanks for the response.
Thank you. It is very informative.
I was wondering if you can share your views on screened inner covers during summer months:
1. Does extra light in the colony affects the colony
2. Does extra ventilation on the top of the colony in summer good for the bees?
3. Does pheromone level get reduced ?
4. Does honey production get changed somehow ?
5. Anything else ?
Thank you.
I'm eager to see the response as well. I live in triple digit summers yet negative temps in winter. I'm a newb and not sure I need this or not?
A late comment on this question. I have always used screened bottom boards, first because it was how I was taught and second because we have very hot (but dry) summers and I figured the added ventilation would be helpful (I also have screened inner covers I put on when the extreme heat hits.). My honey yields were poor this year because a couple of our main flows were knocked down by weather. I also had a lot of first year hives from splits and swarms that did not build a lot of stores. As a result the robbing has been as bad as I have ever seen. I noticed that robbers were drawn to the screened bottom boards and covers by the honey smell. It is easy to pull the screened inner covers but not the bottom boards. As a result I have decided to rotate out the screens bottoms opportunistically and replace them with solids. Just one guy’s experience, FWIW.
Interesting, thanks for the comment.
Thank you. I appreciate your perspective.
You mentioned black foundations , are this plastic foundations? If so aren’t you
Concerned about the brake down of plastic over time and contaminating the honey with micro plastic. Plastic of any grade is made from nasty chemicals.
The same concern should be by using flow hives.
Cheers
It is black plastic foundation. And as with anything made from plastic (most of what we touch) there's a cost and a risk. The plastic foundation we use is made from food grade plastic which helps.
Hi Bob
Iv still not found the Queen, but it’s laying brood, so she’s in there somewhere.
Right the question is, if I have 2 or more weak hives can I add a double Queen excluder between the brood boxes so I can utilise the workers to build out the hives
If you are referring to setting a weak hive over a strong colony to gain more bees the answer is yes.
Excluders used with a sheet of newspaper with a thin cut in them work for this. Once they have gained some population you can move them away.
@@bobbinnie9872 that’s really cool, I need more workers to build out the combs as I’m a first year Beekeeper,
I purchased a hive in a nuc, it is strong with Queen cells capped, 1 is a swarm cell and the other is a supersedure cell location I was wanting to utilise the queens to build more hives, I moved two Queen cells the other day to my incubator and now there are two more, so Iv added another brood box and a super, and Iv added a roof feeding system like yours,
I plan to move the 2 capped qc to the upper bb with a Queen excluder
What are your thoughts on this please
I really wish I could have found your video first. Amazing through easy and straight forward advice. I like the fact that you have a shop and you have tried both but you give the best possible outcome, of what you want!!!
I had the same thoughts as you on the humidity control. An open bottom allows the moisture to evaporate and dissipate too quickly which in turn would make the bees work harder at getting more water to cool the hive or maintain humidity. I stopped using screened bottom boards after my first season as a beekeeper. Subscribed.
Thanks.
Why do you like 3|8 entrances instead of 3/4 inches on the bottom board. Thank you for all of the great content you produce.
Thanks. A mouse generally cannot pass through a 3/8 hole and we don't like the extra draft in the winter. If it gets hot in the summer we will crack the lid to allow more ventilation so I don't think we need the larger entrance.
I have noticed SAME thing about slower build up. I have 2 inch foam on top my big hives to help cool.Also people don't realize they may ventilate,but sbb also has All the moisture escaping ground going into , Good Video
Interesting comment, thanks
Hello Mr. Binnie, I agree, I've been thinking about this for a while too. I think it's harder for the bees to keep the hives cool with the screened bottom boards. It's kind of like running the AC with a wall missing. I'm in Eastern Texas and it gets really hot. Yesterday, the heat index was 108F, with 37% humidity. This Fall, I plan to change them out. Also, if I can smell the hives when I walk into the apiary, I imagine robbers can smell them from way off. Here are the bees working to keep the hive cool with a screened bottom board.
ua-cam.com/video/cxTceNfhy34/v-deo.html
Interesting, Thanks
Since I am in Canada and our summer is short and winters are long so I am a solid bottom board it never gets that hot here in summer. So that said I use a solid bottom board all year long I donot own a screened bottom board my 2 cents worth
I have for all stationary hives the 3 version of the screen bottom boards. But in winter time in top of the slide part I put 3cm of polystyrene cover up in newspaper 📰 and will be isolated for winter very well. Important is the distance between slide and mesh should be enough to fit at list 3cm of polystyrene. I have hives woh 5 cm because in winter hey are hit by a heavy wind. But in summer is very useful especially late June , July and August. After that I put the slides back. In spring fro sure you have to keep slides inside and even the polystyrene until mid May. Just for the same reason as you mention to have. a fast build up colony. I do the mite treatments on the tray and any other fumigation. It’s ventilation. Is mite control. A bit of all. You have to limit your self to weather and where you live them or if you are close to the bee yards to keep an eye on it. Bob do industrial system and for sure only solid bottom boards is needed. Same as I have for pastoral trucks. It’s all solid but screens above with no lids in summer 😂😂😂
Hey Bob,
Let me start by saying thank you for all that you have taught me and continue to teach. I am a first year keeper and find your videos so helpful. I also really enjoy seeing what's going on around your shop/store. It's been a while since this video was posted, and I am curious to know if you still have the same opinion? I wholeheartedly trust and value your opinion.
Thanks
Yes, same opinion.
Thanks so much. Again, I really appreciate you.
Hey Bob. Is Foam insulation board safe to use inside hives?
I honestly don't know.
What guage or screen size do you use in your bottom boards and snelboards?
1/8 inch hardware cloth screen
'Statistically insignificant' means 'Those results tell us nothing, it can be all the other way round too'
I agree about the galvanised screen, in the UK we have mainly stainless steel, and for DIYers there is a specialist company that sell the screen at the correct measurements.
Can we visit your store ? If so what is the address? Thanks
Yes, we're open every day except Sunday. 6306 Hwy 441 South, Lakemont, Georgia.
Hello,
I want to ask you: How much do you use essential oils? Where can I find recipes for essential oils for bees?
Thanks in advance!
Hi Daniel. We don't use essential oils very much because we don't see much of a need for them. When we do we tend to use "Honey B Healthy" or Mann Lakes "Pro Health".
Thank you very much for the answer.
I have been following you for a long time and I am impressed by your skill and knowledge in the field of beekeeping.
I confess that I learned a lot of interesting things.
Congratulations on what you are doing.
Only good.
P. S .: What essential oils do the two products contain:
"Honey B Healthy" or Mann Lakes "Pro Health".
@@Daniel-ox9hy Hi Daniel. The main ingredients in Honey B Healthy are lemongrass oil and spearmint oil. Pro Health has the same with the addition of a smaller amount of thymol. Thanks.
Thank you!
Is it possible to switch from a solid bottom to a screened bottom only while doing powdered sugar treatments and then go back to solid bottoms or will the bees not like the different environment?? Thanks so much for all your advise!
It should work fine.
It would have been good if you had shown on your video on how to build screen board.
Hello.
What is your opinion on polyhives with screened boards?
what is the specification of the screen you used sir?
Most screen on bottom boards in the US is 1/8 inch hardware cloth.
For someone like me that doesn't know much. Would the screen bottom board be good for cleaning the bottom. With the pull out white plastic it can be pulled out cleaned and put back. I am thinking of someone with just a small number of hives. I also thought that a peace of light plywood under the screen bottom with the plastic in there would be better at keeping in the heat in the winter and can be removed in the spring. I understand for a big system with a lot of hives this is something more to do and keep track of. But for someone with only 2 to 8 hives it would not be that big of a problem. I must tell you I don't have any bees yet, I am learning by watching the videos. So if what I ask sounds like I don't know much it is because I don't know much. Just trying to think of things that could help.
Everything you have mentioned is sound.
IMHO with screened bottom board you have to have top of the hive without a ventilation + 1mm aluminum screen. To prevent many problems there should be 6-7cm form screen to a frame.
Thanks.
I think you're right and will probably switch from alluding tray to solid on all my hives. One thing I will miss though is after an OA vape looking to see the mite drop on the sliding drawer the next day. Instead of counting mites in all my hives I could just vapor them all once and if there are none or just a few mites that dropped I will know I don't need to treat it. If there's higher mite drops then I can do a wash on those hives. This seems faster than doing mite counts on all the hives in the apiary. Any thoughts on this? I know a mite drop is not an accurate percentage count but it does show a lot.
You're right that a screen bottom makes it easier to monitor mites. Many people use them for that alone. And if you are familiar with what to expect relative to your colony size it ca be a great tool.
Why can't you have a solid bottom board, that has a screen above it and a pull out tray as well? Why not combine the best of both - the only thing you wouldn't have is the increased ventilation - but you could monitor for mites, but have the solid bottom board "feel" as far as the bees are concerned - dark, sealed and not have the drop of material under the hive.
That's a good choice. We sell many of those in our store.
We have high humidity and lots of rain at times in western NC which causes ventilation nightmares. I have used solid bottom boards for 30 years and screened bottom boards for the last 10. I do use the slide in covers through the winter and shim the top cover year around to try to help control condensation. You have brought up some things i have not considered and I am heading back to solid bottoms for some splits this year. I like the smaller opening in the hive entrance but still see gnawing of the comb at the bottom of the hives. I have reversed my deeps twice this year and have noticed that the queen likes living upstairs. The brood patterns are better and the gnawing isn’t as bad. And the solids last longer while the screened ones have too many places for decay to get a foothold....yes i am not the best carpenter. I may go back to solids completely this fall. Your presentation was excellent and your points well taken. I just have been having 2nd thoughts about this topic for the last year.
Sounds like you've learned a lot and understand both sides.They both work. Good luck with your choice.
Solid bottom boards collect wet moldy bees in the winter.
I lost a weak hive using a screen bottom board no I understand why.the hive could not maintain the right temperature........ thanks.
Thanks for the comment.
We use screen bottoms on our hives with trees of diatomaceous earth to help control our small hive beetle population. We live in Hawaii so we don't have varroa mites as of yet. Any recommendations on keeping hive beetles at bay? Currently trying vegetable oil traps in conjunction with our diatomaceous earth trays.
Thankfully we do not have a hive beetle problem bad enough for us to have to resort to treatments. We do use yards with full sun when possible. I definitely see more beetles in shady locations. I have been shown examples of folded Clorox Handy Wipes catching hundreds of beetles when placed in strategic locations in the hive. It seems they get stuck in them. I had a friend that had a bad problem with beetles and he soaked the the ground around his hives with Guard Star and he said the problem went away. Like me he doesn't like using chemicals on anything but he was desperate. I've wondered if copious amounts of diatomaceous earth or pulverized lime spread under the hives would have the same affect. I have a friend who kept bees up the cost from Hilo and he said the beetles wiped him out. I wish you good Luck.
@@bobbinnie9872 I would be cautious about using Diatomaceous Earth open on the ground around hives since it will kill any bees that end up contacting it, and possibly get carried into the hive, killing more as they clean each other etc.
@@ke6gwf Thanks.
Since I am trying make some of my hive components myself, I prefer solid bottom boards because they are faster and cheaper to produce. One of reasons why are screened bottom boards relativly popular here in Europe is that you can get financial support from EU for them (about 30% of their price here in Czech rep.), which make them cost roughtly the same as solid ones. Because of that most of bottom board sold at stores (at least here in Czech rep.) are screened ones.
Interesting comment, Thanks
Where is your store located?
6306 Hwy 441 South, Lakemont, Ga 30552 - The northeast corner of the state.
Getting ready to build 5 bottom boards. I now know which ones I'm going to build. Thanks it will save me time and materials . I live in Texas and have always been nervous of heat build up on the 100 plus days. Going to use a SCREENED top board with vent holes ABOVE the top board, Any other thoughts on ventilation.
I'm curious how you will be putting vent holes above the top board. In you're heat it certainly could be helpful.
@@bobbinnie9872 Top board is built 3/4 high 3/4 wide in the middle is a 1/8th groove for the 1/8th board with a 2"hole in center with a screen over it. Screen facing up cut aprox 1 inch long x 3/8 deep from the TOP of the outer rail The feeder jar should sit right on top of the center 22" screen. You can cut 1or more 1"x3/8 from all sides if you chose, Most top covers do not fit tight enough to block these holes and the bees can not get out. Sorry I'm not real good at explaining things. Please tell me ANY CONS you may see to this way. Thanks Dennis
@@dennisbarney869 You may find a lot of propolizing of the screen and hole. Colonies tend to propolize anything they cannot pass through.
Hello David, great video. I have a flow hive 2. Have you seen their screen bottom boards? One one side, it has trays, and when flipped over, it becomes a bottom board cutting off all ventilation. Do you think this is a better improvement to screen bottom boards? I really appreciate your opinions.
Hi Brad. To be honest I'm not very familiar with a flow hive because it wouldn't fit our type of operation.
@@bobbinnie9872 Oh no worries. What makes the FlowHive Bottom board so unique, especially for backyard beekeepers, is that if has a long 3inch bottom tray where you can add oil or wood ships and has a back board to either bring in ventilation or completely shut it out. The cool thing is this bottom tray can be flipped over and used to completely seal off the bottom where no air came come in. So in some sorts, the have created a mix of both worlds. It's a great hive for me being a backyard beekeeper. Thanks. If you care to take a look at it, here is a short video. Enjoy. ua-cam.com/video/ADPaZ8w1Umg/v-deo.html
Outstanding post. Thank you for this. I am a new keeper and need to purchase some additional equipment and will shift from the screened BB to solid. Question for you. Why do you prefer to use the 3/8" side vs the 3/4?
A mouse generally can't squeeze through a 3/8 entrance so you don't need mouse guards in winter and there is much less bridge comb between the frame bottom bars in the bottom box and the bottom board. You also are less likely to need entrance reducers in winter. When I started commercial beekeeping on the west coast I rarely saw 3/4 entrances and concluded they weren't necessary.
Thanks
I was given a lot of stuff. Most of the bottoms had screens. Over the years I found that solid bottoms, no inner covers, and migratory outer covers is the way to go. Briefly tried canvas inner covers and also reflectix. Inner covers really do nothing for a properly constructed hive with the right bee space. They do give hive beetles a place to congregate.
We do it the same way you are. I know many beekeepers prefer screened, and probably for their own good reasons, but if you read the comments for this video you will see the majority prefer solid.
@@bobbinnie9872 I'm in east central illinois. What works for me can't be universal.
Beetles here are hit and miss. We have bad years but not every year.
Mike Ries So you don’t use anything under the migratory top? I do duck canvas on some, and regular inner covers on others. I use the migratory lids in winter here in Wisconsin so I can push the hives together before I wrap them. I’m considering using them all year round, so would like to leave out the inner cover if I can.
Very knowledgeable and very well explained. However I noticed that you didn't discuss screened bottoms use in small hive beetle control. I have found them to be very effective in destroying beetles.
Thanks.
I am new to beekeeping just starting this year. The kits I bought all have screened bottom boards because that's what the person I bought them from uses (he has ~2k hives, I figure he must know something). I went to a local class and the instructor told me some of the same things Mr Binnie said about the closed bottom boards, and she was moving to those. I saw several small hive beetles in her hives. I haven't seen a single one in mine so far. I'm not sure about using closed bottom boards here, temps are often over 100 in the summer, humidity today is 60%, it's freaking hot, and my hives are on concrete blocks which form a solid foundation with no gaps, so no air underneath. Concrete in the sun here gets so hot you could cook an egg on it. I am thinking instead of using just the inserts this winter, using some foam board insulation or something underneath them, as those inserts do seem flimsy and not very warm.
One thing I will say about ventilation - the better it is, the less disease there typically is, at least with humans. I would imagine that might apply to bees too. As for them being closed up in a tree - a tree is not a box. The box is too thin to provide the same sort of insulation that a tree would. Therefore, I would think that temperature control would be much more difficult in a closed-up box than in a closed-up tree.
I use screen bottom boards in the summer it gets really hot here in Arizona I just feel it's necessary thing to use if it wasn't for the heat I wouldn't use them what do you think about the way I'm doing with the bottom boards I change them out in the winter and put solid board thank you for your videos
Sounds like a reasonable plan. A screen bottom board with a slide in tray would probably accomplish the same thing.
@@bobbinnie9872 you R the best .think you
Great discussion. Good points on both sides. I live just north of Charlotte, NC, and will stick with my screened bottom board.
I do have a resource hive with a solid bottom board that I am using for the first time this year. It may cause me to change over.
It can take a bit of trying both for many beekeepers to decide what they like.
Is it necessary to have screen bottom boards on my polystyrene hives? They now have solid bottom boards.
I have not ever used polystyrene hives. I wonder if they hold greater amounts of condensation. If they do screen bottom boards could be helpful. Combating condensation is one of the strong points of screen bottom boards.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thank you.
In rare cases mice eat through the screen in german winters.
Tough mice!
Where are you guys located?
Highway 441 in Lakemont, Georgia.
@@bobbinnie9872 I'm in Anderson, South Carolina. Still gathering information on bees. I'm actually browsing through right now and trying to get registered for some beginner classes. Your accent made me feel like you were probably pretty close by!
This is such a great video. Very helpful for myself a newbie bee keeper. 👍🏼
Thank you.
Excellent presentation of both views!!!
Thanks.
Hi, i’m a new beekeeper, could you help me out by answering a question? I want to put a screen bottom base on a beehive, but right now all my hives have screen top cover. Would you recommend a top, bottom, or both? Which one is better? Thank you.
I think a screen bottom board would be better than a screen cover or both.
@@bobbinnie9872 thank you
I’m sorry to bother you again. Yesterday i put only 1 screen on the bottom board and today i checked it and under the screen there are a lot of bees all together, do you know what I need to do?
@@jorgogjika646 One of the potential problems with screened bottoms is what you are describing. Confused bees cluster under the screen instead of using the entrance. They will figure it out in time and start using the entrance.
@@bobbinnie9872 why not both in summer ? We have high humidity in NoVA during summer months. What are possible problems ? I had noticed that since I placed them both, there is no beard, but I am a newbie and, surely, do not have anything to compare to.
I’m leaving in Florida
You mentioned alcohol wash... what is that? I'm still learning. 😊
It is a technique for checking mite percentages in a colony. There are several versions. We use this item: www.dadant.com/learn/check-varroa-mites/
@@bobbinnie9872 have you ever heard or used Varroa Tester 3 in 1 - you use powder sugar instead of alcohol. You keep those 300 bees alive and throw them back to the hive after test.
What do you think of a slatted bottom board
Some beekeepers say they help with swarming and some say they help with overwintering. I don't have any personal experience with them so I can't say.
This video was a breath of fresh air.
Thanks.
Just starting need brood slats
925-642-1949 text me
Everything you said makes sense.
Thank you for the comment.
Thank you.i agree. With you. Love your video's. Great help.to bee keepers. Every where. I always look forward to a new video.
Thank you.
Fantastic interview. Master Bee keeper and a very humble man. Love your work and videos. The Australian bee keeping industry is the opposite.
Spot on! Thanks for your experience and honest insight to this 'over debated' subject. Common sense rules! When I still was assessing their use, I experienced wax moths will lay eggs/cocoons under the screen board and the when the larva emerge they are small enough to enter the hive through the screen. Also, during robbing season the hives with the open bottoms were constantly harassed as their smells were wide open and very attractive to bees, wasps, yellow jackets. Thanks for taking the time to make all your videos. We all benefit from your knowledge and experience.
Very good points, Thanks
The purpose of the natural mite drop using a screened bottom board is to provide an initial assessment of the infestation at a time when it is too early in the season to perform other tests. It is an estimate, just as other tests provide especially since most varroa mites will reproduce in sealed brood when it is available.
Thanks
Why do you prefer 3/8 entrance?
With 3/8 mice generally can't get through, there is less of a need for entrance reducers in winter, less burr comb or "ladder comb" between bottom bars on frames and the bottom board because it is closer to proper bee space, and last but not least when I got started in Southern Oregon everyone I knew, both small and large, were using 3/8. I never saw anyone use a 3/4 entrance until I moved to Georgia where most beekeepers seem to use them.
@@bobbinnie9872 , I have had the same experience with the burr comb. With the 3/4" spacing, the burr comb gets so bad sometimes I cannot pull the frame out of the box without destroying a lot of cells on the neighboring frames.
Bob Binnie at Blue Ridge Honey Company I am in Wisconsin. Do you use the 3/8 side all year?
Any comments on screened inner covers?
Thanks for sharing, great information. I agree 100%
Thanks
you sound like you are soooo sick of talking about Bees lol