Parts needed for one side of an usagi-inspired dr4b: One section = 5 holes 2 x 7-section c-channel (the top 4-bar of the lift, will be attached to gear) 2 x 6-section c-channel (the bottom 4-bar of the lift, will be attached to a gear) 2 x 4-section c-channel (brackets the two 4-bars, and ensures the gears mesh) 1 x 3-section c-channel (attaches the top 4-bar and actual operational mechanism used to play the game) 1 x 5-section c-channel (attaches to bottom 4-bar and main robot) 2 thick gears, size does not matter, as long as they aren't thin lots of axles, bearing flats, small screws and nuts and lots of spacers of various sizes it may be better to prototype it first with janky screw joints and then replace those with spaced out axles one-by-one once the minimum viable product is complete.
hey mate, thank you so much, im using screw joints instead of axle joints, but this helps an ungodly amount, my bot last year had no bearings no nothing, it was all steel and uber jank, but I'm trying to make an op worlds bot for this years game (tipping point) and your guides actually helped so much (even tho I'm a junior) Thanks again - team 8471
Awesome tutorial! Out of curiosity because our robotics team is recreating this lift, how tall can this lift get? We’re considering adding a six bar at the top but if it’s unnecessary we save parts not doing that.
I’m def late, but if it’s totally necessary, you could definitely go with a triple reverse four bar. I doubt you would though, as these get pretty damn tall for any vex stuff
I agree with this aggressive yet fair statement. The video includes lots of pictures and words, but there is no real explanation on how to go through each specific step. My fellow teammates and I attempted to create many of the bars we observed in the video above, but we encountered many problems when we discovered mistakes in our own bars that we did not notice while we were making it because the video gave us a bad explanation or picture of how to build the bars. In the future, I recommend kelpler electronics take more time to take their viewers through each step, so the viewers have a better opportunity to build the device perfectly.🍆💦👅
Y’all need to understand that the video is only made to give people the idea and principle behind the design, so then it can be up to the viewer to actually realize the design with the inspiration from this video, right?
Screw joints are amazing. The DR4B on the In the Zone bot did have screw joints in the gear section. I didn't use them in the example because I could not fit a nut on either end with the vex-legal 2 inch screws. I used standoffs in the ITZ bot to extend the screws, but I would not recommend it.
@@KeplerElectronics 929X, one of my clubmates, built his dr4b out of all screw joints except one. What he did was have a bearing sticking out screwed into a one by screwed into standoffs. This allowed the screw to reach, but I understand most are not as devoted to the art of jank as he is.
@Bucketfullabiscuits the art of jank, I like that. That’s the cool part of vex, trying to find the most interesting way to assemble the parts to do what you want.
1:27 Note to viewers: The two c-channels are not both attached to the gear.
Fam some of your tips have been very useful to me, keep those uploads going! Gj
Is it me or does he sound like MatPat from Game Theory...
Sheenyl Hassan I was just thinking that.
Similar but not the same.
But hey, That's just a theory!
nope just u
@@aqz8791 A GAME THEORY
Parts needed for one side of an usagi-inspired dr4b:
One section = 5 holes
2 x 7-section c-channel (the top 4-bar of the lift, will be attached to gear)
2 x 6-section c-channel (the bottom 4-bar of the lift, will be attached to a gear)
2 x 4-section c-channel (brackets the two 4-bars, and ensures the gears mesh)
1 x 3-section c-channel (attaches the top 4-bar and actual operational mechanism used to play the game)
1 x 5-section c-channel (attaches to bottom 4-bar and main robot)
2 thick gears, size does not matter, as long as they aren't thin
lots of axles, bearing flats, small screws and nuts
and lots of spacers of various sizes
it may be better to prototype it first with janky screw joints and then replace those with spaced out axles one-by-one once the minimum viable product is complete.
Great content, thank you and keep it coming!
1:37 how did you connect the second piece? because the screws and the holes dont line up
Those pieces aren’t actually connected, that image is there to show how the spacing between the pivots on both bars is identical.
u right dawg this vid is bad bro, how can they screw in bars that don't got no pieces for screws to line up to.This vid wack.
@grantcollier3860 I feel u, been watching this lately and nothin seems to add up
Are u going to worlds this year?
hey mate, thank you so much, im using screw joints instead of axle joints, but this helps an ungodly amount, my bot last year had no bearings no nothing, it was all steel and uber jank, but I'm trying to make an op worlds bot for this years game (tipping point) and your guides actually helped so much (even tho I'm a junior) Thanks again - team 8471
Love the video!! It was explained so well! Thanks :)
Awesome tutorial! Out of curiosity because our robotics team is recreating this lift, how tall can this lift get? We’re considering adding a six bar at the top but if it’s unnecessary we save parts not doing that.
These lifts generally get between three and four feet high.
I’m def late, but if it’s totally necessary, you could definitely go with a triple reverse four bar. I doubt you would though, as these get pretty damn tall for any vex stuff
Who’s here for High Stakes?
owh ! what are these giant mecano perfored metal profile ?
OMG ITS MINI MATPAT
I was the thousandth sub :D
nice
what does the instrument refer to?
GO SLOWER AND TAKE US THRU THE STEPS
I agree with this aggressive yet fair statement. The video includes lots of pictures and words, but there is no real explanation on how to go through each specific step. My fellow teammates and I attempted to create many of the bars we observed in the video above, but we encountered many problems when we discovered mistakes in our own bars that we did not notice while we were making it because the video gave us a bad explanation or picture of how to build the bars. In the future, I recommend kelpler electronics take more time to take their viewers through each step, so the viewers have a better opportunity to build the device perfectly.🍆💦👅
lol i recreated this in iq 1st so it was easy
Y’all need to understand that the video is only made to give people the idea and principle behind the design, so then it can be up to the viewer to actually realize the design with the inspiration from this video, right?
idk why people have trouble with this, it’s literally just two four bars
Great guide, but it should be noted that screw joints are amazing compared to axle joints, and should be used whenever possible
Screw joints are amazing. The DR4B on the In the Zone bot did have screw joints in the gear section. I didn't use them in the example because I could not fit a nut on either end with the vex-legal 2 inch screws. I used standoffs in the ITZ bot to extend the screws, but I would not recommend it.
@@KeplerElectronics 929X, one of my clubmates, built his dr4b out of all screw joints except one. What he did was have a bearing sticking out screwed into a one by screwed into standoffs. This allowed the screw to reach, but I understand most are not as devoted to the art of jank as he is.
@Bucketfullabiscuits the art of jank, I like that. That’s the cool part of vex, trying to find the most interesting way to assemble the parts to do what you want.
Screw joints op. And 1m dr4b
it went way too fast i couldn’t keep up
Skill issue
this man sounds like matpat from game/film theory
yeet
Where is the like button at. I liked the video but could not find the like button. Help.
Now make a knock off Boston dynamics with me lol
HALLLP... we can't find code for the lift. HALP USSSSSSSSSSSS!!
It's just a motor spinning?
69 dude