Took a little bit of time to get into the zone, but they are very worth it. Now, do you think they can work with Fanatec DD Pro wheel ecosystem (that means console, no PC USB ports so it would need some adapter to plug them directly to dd pro wheel)?
Moving from non loadcell pedals TLCM is probably the best option. I'm very happy with mine, I had some squeaking but spray grease sorted that. Very nice review random😀
Great pedals, but to make full use of the 100kg load cell, I would advise to buy some elastomers. I use a Shore 80A conic skateboard bushing together with some Shore 45A TPV soft bushings from Hawksworth Engineering.
I got these pedals the day came on the market. A huge improvement from the standard T3pa pedals that came with the T300. When they work, they do the job properly. Not only is the brake pedal a improvement from the standard pedals, also the throttle is much better. Unfortunately I had to keep calibrating the pedals because the input drops during a race. Left me with a maximum input of 25%. Thrustmaster was kindly to replace the set under warranty. Because I had my share of problems with the T300 as well, I made the choice to order the GT DD pro.
I pre-ordered the T-LCM pedals when they were first announced and they are a big step up from the T3PA ones. For their price range, they are a good set of pedals. And being that I was fully in the Thrustmaster ecosystem, it made sense. Especially because I race on both pc and console. I eventually was able to get an elastomer brake mod with varying degrees of firmness to totally replace all but the preload springs. The progressive feel of the bumpers took the brake feel to a new level. When I switched wheelbases the the Fanatec CSW 2.5, I was debating whether or not to switch to the Clubsport pedals. As of right now, I don't have a need to, but sometimes I feel that I'm missing out on the on the fly adjustment that's on offer by pairing my wheel with the same manufacturer's pedal set.
I do like them. I'm using them since 15 months and at that time, they were the better option to the CSL Elite LC as they still had potentiometers which could break. And with some love in form of Lithium grease they don't squeak anymore. With the mentioned "flaws" in mind they are still very good entrylevel loadcellpedals, but as they are entry level, I'm now going to upgrade to Heusinkveld Sprints. Simexpo really made me want more proper pedals :D
2:20 - There is a screw on the bottom that can loosen or tighten the brake pedal’s travel. Loosen it up before you install the brake pedal’s rod back to its place, then tighten again, to avoid any injury. I don’t think this is documented, just something I discovered by chance.
I havd had them for an year now and I can say that I'm very happy about them Bought for 200 euros, now it's possible to find them at 170 shipped in Italy sometimes I was coming from a CSL 2-pedal set, and I choose to go with these instead of buying the load cell as I felt the potentiometers were giving me too much troubles (flickering input) and the throttle position was not customizable (and I felt a little uncomfortable) I loved these straight away. I played a bit with the pedals position, springs and shims, I began with a white/red springs and 4 shims (I could feel the sudden change in pressure, it felt like a sort of exponential braking curve and at first it really helped to know where the "lock-up point" was (so that I could feel were to ease off the pressure) With time I went in a harder setup direction, now I am using a black/red configuration, 4 shims, and I feel this gives me a little bit of what I was looking in the beginning, but I feel more precise in trail braking phases (more dependency on pressure rather than travel) Completely agree with with the throttle travel, a bit too long for me too, I went with 92% in the software and I feel pretty comfortable I would actually want to try some elastomers now, I'd really like to know your opinion if you get the chance to try some third parties options Great job as always
Thanks for your explanation mate. Helped me a lot make a decision. Considering that I'm on G29, and trail braking is a problem with them, I decided to upgrade to TLCM. How does it feel now in terms of lock up points ?! Can you decrease Abs with these pedals ?! Just asking, because I think the brake is the most important part in racing, therefore I'd much appreciate your opinion on this topic. Thanks in advance, and greetings from Switzerland.
I got mine locally for around 160€. Can’t beat that, especially considering any other LC pedals on the market for me add additional, international shipping costs. Great pedals for budget-friendly builds!
Can confirm that they start to squeak after about a year of usage, but it's only brake pedal for me and it's only when left foot breaking. Also this squeaking is not consistent, so it doesn't happen all the time. Besides that I think they're worth every penny.
Buying something like this in store would be a dream for me! thrustmaster stuff is very rare here, I hope they start selling all of they’re products here Italy.
When running double red spring with 5 washers I managed to push the washers through the black holder pieces, lol. So after an a year or so, the washers now do nothing. Still love the pedals lol. And yes, I did use the red holder pieces. Also switching the clutch and gas pedals' springs around makes the gas pedal so much better! It's a very simple process and the benefit is massive! I don't understand why the springs are that way to begin with..
I have the T3PM and the springs on the clutch and throttle pedals sound like they have the same problem, clutch is stronger than the throttle pedal, when really the clutch should be the lightest!
Quick suggestion concering the affiliate link: It should be visible on top of the description, in such a way that you don't need to click on "Show More" to see it. And especially don't put the affiliate link that's relevant for the video below your regular affiliate links.
I bought the T-LCM some months back & I could not get used to them. The brake even with the stiffest springs are still too soft. The throttle & clutch have too much travel. The angle of the pedals are too steep. It was supposed to replace my T3PA pedals with conical brake mod, which I went back to & am still very happy using. I had the Clubsport V3 pedals which I might get again, they were better to use than T-LCM although that is not a surprise considering the price difference between the two. Good review.
You can change the soft/hardness with easy mods find on internet for like 10/15 euro. And you can change the angle of the pedals, Thrustmaster included customizability with that in the package. I can understand you if that the travel is too much of the pedals or the wobbly side to side effect. But your 2 complains are easy to fix tbh.
Good review a bit surprising you missed a point, there is a center mounting point as well, with a particularity highlighted by Barry Rowland from SRG as the brake pedal has it's own steel frame inside the plastic shroud, so it's much more durable and precise when braking, that could change a bit your observations on the braking feel and consistency.
the center point does zero in this case, because the inconsistency is about where the spring is in regards to the fuclrum of the brake pedal. applying force in the top of the pedal has a largely different result as applying it on the bottom or middle. This is far more extreme than any other pedal set Ive used, including the T3PA with the conical brake mod
Just a tip for those who don't own a sim rig. I don't own one and found my T-LCM's unusable as a stand-alone on the floor, so I took a 2mm thick piece of hardwood plywood I had leftover that is considerably wider and longer than the pedal base. I was going to screw it into the floor to keep it stable but found that the weight of it alone keeps it from rising up under braking and it keeps in place simply being up against the wall. Been great. Having upgraded from G29 pedals, there's no question this upgrade was worth the money!
I do not quite follow, did you screw the pedal base into a bit of plywood? I don't have a sim rig and like you said, it is pretty much unusable as it is.
I have version 1 and version 2 of their mod. Didn't see a need to get the 3rd one. I use the white v2 bumper along with the original v1 mod and that works for me. 😁👍🏾
Hi Thanks for the video I really enjoyed it, may I ask what shoes you are using? it looks really breathable and comfortable and almost perfect for home/sim use!!
I bought some of these for an upgrade to the T3pq pros and wow did i regret it. I used the hardest springs and even when with the washers to stop the preload to try and stop the amount of travel, going to these from my pros with the conical installed was just horrid and wanted to go back. I ended up after 4 months of trying to get used to them going and buying a used set of V3's and never looked back since (plus it made me upto 2 seconds quicker on ACC) so if you can afford V3's my advice is get those
Sorry to ask, what shoes (socks?) are your wearing in the video? I recently got V3s and with socks on I managed to hurt my brake-foot because of the screw in the pedal face...
Anybody else having issues with modulating the brake pedals? I'm using both red springs with 77 brake force (I race barefoot). No problems with pushing the brakes initially but slowly depressing for trail braking isn't as clean as I want it to. Example is it jumps from 100%>80%>60%>45%>etc. where it gets easier to control as you go down. Honestly my previous potentiometer (and when I modded it to a load cell) pedals feel better to trail brake. Haven't been able to play with the simrig that much since buying this almost a year ago so not sure if it's just the springs being kinda new. EDIT: Just finished watching the video and it seems you are not having the same issues as mine. Mine is probably some issue with the settings or installation. EDIT2: I noticed I wasn't using any of the washers provided. Added 3 of them and I don't notice the issue anymore. The more washers, the better but having all 5 for me made the pedals too heavy.
Exactly. I'm having this issue/sensation. I'm thinking it's going from pot tho hall sensor. Different kind of sensor probably requires different driving. Just need to get use to it
Do you think its worth going the CSL V2 over these? The only reason why I'm considering these is because Fanatec customer service is absolutely disgusting. So i really dont want to give a horrible company that doesn't care about its customers my money. However, i haven't found anything that competes with the CSL V2 at that orice point.
Had them for 7 months, with the stock springs the brake is way too soft so I went and modded the pedals (Apex V2R mod, highly recommended) this changed the pedals quite a bit. Even with the mods I just feel like the pedals behave very much like a potentiometer due to the brake travel length being so long. The brake arm angle adds way too much mechanical force and this makes the pedals feel too soft as well, 100kg LC? Feels like 50 with the mechanical force added. Gosh I kinda recommend the Fanatec CSL's over these even though I haven't tried them. I now have the Simagic pedals and can finally see what a LC brake pedal is supposed to be like, I know it costs 3.5 times as much but yeah so much better.
Completely agree, decent set of pedals for the cost, but stop short of being genuinely great because of some odd design choices. Stock brake just has way way too much travel even with the stiffest springs, it just feels like using any potentiometer pedals. I modded mine with a skateboard bushing with the one red spring has reduced travel significantly and allowed more manipulation of the loadcell, but they still lack ‘feel’ which would take them to the next level. I’ve spent so much time messing around with the brake and still aren’t 100% happy with it, however like mentioned, still great value for what you get. Edit: Can confirm concerns around squeaking, my first set developed a bad creak after 9 months under braking, swapped in store without any issues, they still worked fine but it was annoying.
@@mikelshwede Agree completely with everything you've said and have reminded me of some other serious pitfalls. Like the brake travel length being too long and feeling like pots in the end. People have modded them to replace all of the resistance parts with skateboard bushings and some other rubber gaskets/standoff washers and say they're much better then but unfortunately I couldn't find the parts for the mods anywhere in north America. Sim Racing Corner came up with it if ya wanna go check it out. I've heard the squeaks!
@@DavidGarcia-oi5nt yeh I used a bushing as it was $10AUD, any of the mods from companies were like $60AUD+ which was just too much to justify. In iRacing they just feel like I’m braking with a kids toy with some of the cars that need lower braking force. So close but the crap springs and garbage software lets them down.
TLCM , Brakeforce Settings help. Hi, I have set Brakeforce at 0 on tlcm. But i still find it too hard to get desired braking. i would prefer for it to be easier than 0 to get 100% braking. Is there a way to reduce this below 0 or change any other setting, so i have to press the brake with lesser pressure/force to get up to 100% braking....? Thanks.
Hello, Just bought a T-LCM pedals. I have a problem with the loadcell. My brake pedal always sees some pressure even I do not press the brake pedal. There is always 2-3 brake in the calibration software without actually pressing the pedal. Is it normal? I can't play it without putting some deadzone.
I do like them but after a year I found the break pedal goes lose all the time…. There’s a nut underneath the base that I have to tighten all the time…
I have a set, love them except i cant find a spring combo i like, its either a bit too soft or a bit too stiff and no amount of tweaking with stock springs has yielded a satisfying hudraulic feel.
@@randomcallsign I have the 3drap mod. Works really well. 3drap + red spring is da bomb. 3drap extended is pretty meh to me, but this combo does feel very natural when it comes to driving Formula cars.
I've had about 6 months of use on these pedals now and haven't had to do any maintenance. If it starts squeaking like I've seen some commenters mention, then I'll apply some gun oil.
Literally no maintenance. Maybe 1 year down the line you need to apply a bit of white lithium grease you can buy cheaply online and you're good. The pedal is also hall effect, so there's no need to worry about moving parts and potentiometers.
Guys i have a question. My brake started sticking a little and its starting to get anoying because it isnt smooth at all. I lubed the spring shaft (where you put your springs) but it still sticks. If somebody knows a solution, reply to this comment.
@@joost1183 it isnt smooth when I feather it back and forth and when I press it slowly. Its as I'd you are stepping on something sticky with your shoes (and know I havent poured anything on them)
You need to open them and grease the joints/axes Look at the sim racing garage review to see how to open it and where tu put the grease (basic lithium or silicone). Best way is to completely disassemble the brake, clean all the parts and grease the moving ones. Might as well do the other 2. If you're not comfortable taking the whole brake appart, using some silicone oil on the axes would be easier but would probably need to be done at least once a year
@@preslavnedyalkov5432 If you contact Thrustmaster and tell them about your problem than they let you to open it without validating the warranty. Trust me I tested it. They told me how to open it and grease it to eliminate some spring noise.
What are your experiences with the TLCMs?
Took a little bit of time to get into the zone, but they are very worth it. Now, do you think they can work with Fanatec DD Pro wheel ecosystem (that means console, no PC USB ports so it would need some adapter to plug them directly to dd pro wheel)?
Moving from non loadcell pedals TLCM is probably the best option. I'm very happy with mine, I had some squeaking but spray grease sorted that. Very nice review random😀
@@phaedrussocrates7636 Fanatec sells an adapter my dude.
Great pedals, but to make full use of the 100kg load cell, I would advise to buy some elastomers. I use a Shore 80A conic skateboard bushing together with some Shore 45A TPV soft bushings from Hawksworth Engineering.
I got these pedals the day came on the market. A huge improvement from the standard T3pa pedals that came with the T300. When they work, they do the job properly. Not only is the brake pedal a improvement from the standard pedals, also the throttle is much better. Unfortunately I had to keep calibrating the pedals because the input drops during a race. Left me with a maximum input of 25%. Thrustmaster was kindly to replace the set under warranty. Because I had my share of problems with the T300 as well, I made the choice to order the GT DD pro.
I pre-ordered the T-LCM pedals when they were first announced and they are a big step up from the T3PA ones. For their price range, they are a good set of pedals. And being that I was fully in the Thrustmaster ecosystem, it made sense. Especially because I race on both pc and console. I eventually was able to get an elastomer brake mod with varying degrees of firmness to totally replace all but the preload springs. The progressive feel of the bumpers took the brake feel to a new level. When I switched wheelbases the the Fanatec CSW 2.5, I was debating whether or not to switch to the Clubsport pedals. As of right now, I don't have a need to, but sometimes I feel that I'm missing out on the on the fly adjustment that's on offer by pairing my wheel with the same manufacturer's pedal set.
I do like them. I'm using them since 15 months and at that time, they were the better option to the CSL Elite LC as they still had potentiometers which could break. And with some love in form of Lithium grease they don't squeak anymore. With the mentioned "flaws" in mind they are still very good entrylevel loadcellpedals, but as they are entry level, I'm now going to upgrade to Heusinkveld Sprints. Simexpo really made me want more proper pedals :D
2:20 - There is a screw on the bottom that can loosen or tighten the brake pedal’s travel. Loosen it up before you install the brake pedal’s rod back to its place, then tighten again, to avoid any injury. I don’t think this is documented, just something I discovered by chance.
Oh btw, the same screw will solve the lateral play (sway) as well. If they start to creak, tighten the screw.
I switched from T3PA to T-LCM and so far so good (for the money).
Nice, have you found that it improves pace?
I havd had them for an year now and I can say that I'm very happy about them
Bought for 200 euros, now it's possible to find them at 170 shipped in Italy sometimes
I was coming from a CSL 2-pedal set, and I choose to go with these instead of buying the load cell as I felt the potentiometers were giving me too much troubles (flickering input) and the throttle position was not customizable (and I felt a little uncomfortable)
I loved these straight away. I played a bit with the pedals position, springs and shims, I began with a white/red springs and 4 shims (I could feel the sudden change in pressure, it felt like a sort of exponential braking curve and at first it really helped to know where the "lock-up point" was (so that I could feel were to ease off the pressure)
With time I went in a harder setup direction, now I am using a black/red configuration, 4 shims, and I feel this gives me a little bit of what I was looking in the beginning, but I feel more precise in trail braking phases (more dependency on pressure rather than travel)
Completely agree with with the throttle travel, a bit too long for me too, I went with 92% in the software and I feel pretty comfortable
I would actually want to try some elastomers now, I'd really like to know your opinion if you get the chance to try some third parties options
Great job as always
Thanks for your explanation mate. Helped me a lot make a decision.
Considering that I'm on G29, and trail braking is a problem with them, I decided to upgrade to TLCM.
How does it feel now in terms of lock up points ?!
Can you decrease Abs with these pedals ?!
Just asking, because I think the brake is the most important part in racing, therefore I'd much appreciate your opinion on this topic.
Thanks in advance, and greetings from Switzerland.
I got mine locally for around 160€. Can’t beat that, especially considering any other LC pedals on the market for me add additional, international shipping costs. Great pedals for budget-friendly builds!
160€ is a steal! What a buy !
Hi radu, may I ask where did you get them from?
I just got it from a friend BRAND NEW for 85€ after my Logitech G920 pedals broke.... man I can't wait to receive it!!!
Can confirm that they start to squeak after about a year of usage, but it's only brake pedal for me and it's only when left foot breaking. Also this squeaking is not consistent, so it doesn't happen all the time. Besides that I think they're worth every penny.
@Driv3r I bought 3DRap elastomer, that RC reviewed in other video and that also removed squeaks
Also someone posted that with lithium grease it solved the squeaking.
Buying something like this in store would be a dream for me! thrustmaster stuff is very rare here, I hope they start selling all of they’re products here Italy.
When running double red spring with 5 washers I managed to push the washers through the black holder pieces, lol. So after an a year or so, the washers now do nothing. Still love the pedals lol. And yes, I did use the red holder pieces.
Also switching the clutch and gas pedals' springs around makes the gas pedal so much better! It's a very simple process and the benefit is massive! I don't understand why the springs are that way to begin with..
I have the T3PM and the springs on the clutch and throttle pedals sound like they have the same problem, clutch is stronger than the throttle pedal, when really the clutch should be the lightest!
Quick suggestion concering the affiliate link: It should be visible on top of the description, in such a way that you don't need to click on "Show More" to see it. And especially don't put the affiliate link that's relevant for the video below your regular affiliate links.
Creaking can be easily solved with a lubricator spray.
think im definitely going to upgrade, thanks for the video!
I bought the T-LCM some months back & I could not get used to them. The brake even with the stiffest springs are still too soft. The throttle & clutch have too much travel. The angle of the pedals are too steep. It was supposed to replace my T3PA pedals with conical brake mod, which I went back to & am still very happy using. I had the Clubsport V3 pedals which I might get again, they were better to use than T-LCM although that is not a surprise considering the price difference between the two. Good review.
You can change the soft/hardness with easy mods find on internet for like 10/15 euro. And you can change the angle of the pedals, Thrustmaster included customizability with that in the package. I can understand you if that the travel is too much of the pedals or the wobbly side to side effect. But your 2 complains are easy to fix tbh.
Muito obrigado pela review! Certamente vão ser dos próximos upgrades ;)
Good review a bit surprising you missed a point, there is a center mounting point as well, with a particularity highlighted by Barry Rowland from SRG as the brake pedal has it's own steel frame inside the plastic shroud, so it's much more durable and precise when braking, that could change a bit your observations on the braking feel and consistency.
the center point does zero in this case, because the inconsistency is about where the spring is in regards to the fuclrum of the brake pedal. applying force in the top of the pedal has a largely different result as applying it on the bottom or middle. This is far more extreme than any other pedal set Ive used, including the T3PA with the conical brake mod
Just a tip for those who don't own a sim rig. I don't own one and found my T-LCM's unusable as a stand-alone on the floor, so I took a 2mm thick piece of hardwood plywood I had leftover that is considerably wider and longer than the pedal base. I was going to screw it into the floor to keep it stable but found that the weight of it alone keeps it from rising up under braking and it keeps in place simply being up against the wall. Been great. Having upgraded from G29 pedals, there's no question this upgrade was worth the money!
I do not quite follow, did you screw the pedal base into a bit of plywood? I don't have a sim rig and like you said, it is pretty much unusable as it is.
So these pedals would be compatible with the TX leather edition wheel?
Should work with any Thrustmaster base
i was thinking between these and csl pedals (with LC) and ended up getting v3 and so far i have been happy
I use this pedal with CSL DD. No need to change to Fanatec V3.
look to our add on for tlcm for the brake ;-) if you want to test it , i send one kit
Good balanced review. They are on my list as my next upgrade (supply chain permitting!). Apex V2R offers a variety of elastomer pads for these.
"supply chain permitting" - I fel that... 👀😂
I WANT A 3080!
I have version 1 and version 2 of their mod. Didn't see a need to get the 3rd one. I use the white v2 bumper along with the original v1 mod and that works for me. 😁👍🏾
Hi Thanks for the video I really enjoyed it, may I ask what shoes you are using? it looks really breathable and comfortable and almost perfect for home/sim use!!
Watershoes
that was quick, @@randomcallsign haha. thanks buddy, will check them up sometime : )
Thank you for the Review RC !
My pleasure!
The pedals look alright to me, better than the T3PAs.
I wonder how many people watch pedal videos for feet though.
👀👀👀👀
Lure them in with a normal generic statement...
... deliver the punchline! 👍Top job Izzie👍
I bought some of these for an upgrade to the T3pq pros and wow did i regret it. I used the hardest springs and even when with the washers to stop the preload to try and stop the amount of travel, going to these from my pros with the conical installed was just horrid and wanted to go back. I ended up after 4 months of trying to get used to them going and buying a used set of V3's and never looked back since (plus it made me upto 2 seconds quicker on ACC) so if you can afford V3's my advice is get those
I'm looking at getting these, but I've seen a few drifters saying they've broken clutch springs with clutch kicks
Really need to buy those one day.
Sorry to ask, what shoes (socks?) are your wearing in the video? I recently got V3s and with socks on I managed to hurt my brake-foot because of the screw in the pedal face...
Anybody else having issues with modulating the brake pedals? I'm using both red springs with 77 brake force (I race barefoot). No problems with pushing the brakes initially but slowly depressing for trail braking isn't as clean as I want it to. Example is it jumps from 100%>80%>60%>45%>etc. where it gets easier to control as you go down. Honestly my previous potentiometer (and when I modded it to a load cell) pedals feel better to trail brake. Haven't been able to play with the simrig that much since buying this almost a year ago so not sure if it's just the springs being kinda new.
EDIT: Just finished watching the video and it seems you are not having the same issues as mine. Mine is probably some issue with the settings or installation.
EDIT2: I noticed I wasn't using any of the washers provided. Added 3 of them and I don't notice the issue anymore. The more washers, the better but having all 5 for me made the pedals too heavy.
Exactly. I'm having this issue/sensation. I'm thinking it's going from pot tho hall sensor. Different kind of sensor probably requires different driving. Just need to get use to it
Why is my throttle on the left? I need it on the right is there a way to change this?
12 bit on PS
Do you think its worth going the CSL V2 over these? The only reason why I'm considering these is because Fanatec customer service is absolutely disgusting. So i really dont want to give a horrible company that doesn't care about its customers my money. However, i haven't found anything that competes with the CSL V2 at that orice point.
Yes
Do u need a pc to set them up ? Or is ps5 gt7 good ??
Had them for 7 months, with the stock springs the brake is way too soft so I went and modded the pedals (Apex V2R mod, highly recommended) this changed the pedals quite a bit. Even with the mods I just feel like the pedals behave very much like a potentiometer due to the brake travel length being so long. The brake arm angle adds way too much mechanical force and this makes the pedals feel too soft as well, 100kg LC? Feels like 50 with the mechanical force added. Gosh I kinda recommend the Fanatec CSL's over these even though I haven't tried them.
I now have the Simagic pedals and can finally see what a LC brake pedal is supposed to be like, I know it costs 3.5 times as much but yeah so much better.
Completely agree, decent set of pedals for the cost, but stop short of being genuinely great because of some odd design choices.
Stock brake just has way way too much travel even with the stiffest springs, it just feels like using any potentiometer pedals.
I modded mine with a skateboard bushing with the one red spring has reduced travel significantly and allowed more manipulation of the loadcell, but they still lack ‘feel’ which would take them to the next level.
I’ve spent so much time messing around with the brake and still aren’t 100% happy with it, however like mentioned, still great value for what you get.
Edit: Can confirm concerns around squeaking, my first set developed a bad creak after 9 months under braking, swapped in store without any issues, they still worked fine but it was annoying.
@@mikelshwede Agree completely with everything you've said and have reminded me of some other serious pitfalls. Like the brake travel length being too long and feeling like pots in the end. People have modded them to replace all of the resistance parts with skateboard bushings and some other rubber gaskets/standoff washers and say they're much better then but unfortunately I couldn't find the parts for the mods anywhere in north America. Sim Racing Corner came up with it if ya wanna go check it out.
I've heard the squeaks!
@@DavidGarcia-oi5nt yeh I used a bushing as it was $10AUD, any of the mods from companies were like $60AUD+ which was just too much to justify.
In iRacing they just feel like I’m braking with a kids toy with some of the cars that need lower braking force.
So close but the crap springs and garbage software lets them down.
Aye!!! What are the racing socks you’ve got on!? I’ve been looking for something just like those
Water shoes
How does the clutch feel
What are those shoes you're wearing please share ))
O nice they r great for the 200 dollar price point I did a compare on my channel these vs the v3
TLCM , Brakeforce Settings help.
Hi,
I have set Brakeforce at 0 on tlcm. But i still find it too hard to get desired braking. i would prefer for it to be easier than 0 to get 100% braking.
Is there a way to reduce this below 0 or change any other setting, so i have to press the brake with lesser pressure/force to get up to 100% braking....?
Thanks.
Order mine today. 199 US
If $200 is considered budget, I'm not even going to look up how much high end pedals cost lmao. Guess I'm sticking with my Driving Force GT pedals
they get very expensive
It this compatible with the T 128 or no because the pedal are horrible on the t 128😂
It should be. Ask them though, because at the time the t128 wasn't there.
Hello,
Just bought a T-LCM pedals. I have a problem with the loadcell. My brake pedal always sees some pressure even I do not press the brake pedal. There is always 2-3 brake in the calibration software without actually pressing the pedal. Is it normal? I can't play it without putting some deadzone.
I have the same, did you solve it?
A lot better than T3PA ? ? ?
way better
I do like them but after a year I found the break pedal goes lose all the time…. There’s a nut underneath the base that I have to tighten all the time…
Buy some Locktite and apply to the threads. This will fix this issue.
Does it work with ps4 wheelbase and the sf1000 wheel?
yes
@@mArvAlcao71 Nice
I have a set, love them except i cant find a spring combo i like, its either a bit too soft or a bit too stiff and no amount of tweaking with stock springs has yielded a satisfying hudraulic feel.
Play around with the shims. Im using 2x Reds with 3 shims
@@randomcallsign im thinking of buying a set of rubber cushions to mod the brake.
@@ciabutnot7723 bought one from 3drap. My thoughts should be up next year
@@randomcallsign I have the 3drap mod. Works really well. 3drap + red spring is da bomb. 3drap extended is pretty meh to me, but this combo does feel very natural when it comes to driving Formula cars.
@@randomcallsign more shims means softer or stiffer? Thanks.
Hi I am a console user, do I still have to calibrate the pedals after changing springs if I am on console
AFAIK, yes.
@@randomcallsign thanks
is it possible to connect pedals via usb to ps4 and use fanatec steering wheel? i have a usb hub but i don't have a drive hub. Thank you
No
hello , i had these pedals , they walk very hard 20 minutes of playing and it's over , better t3pa , greetings 👍😀
Is the maintenance easy for this kind of pedal?
very
@@randomcallsign time to sell my g29 pedals
An oil change, caliper tension check, and brake pad replacement every 500 hours is all that is needed!
😁
I've had about 6 months of use on these pedals now and haven't had to do any maintenance. If it starts squeaking like I've seen some commenters mention, then I'll apply some gun oil.
Literally no maintenance. Maybe 1 year down the line you need to apply a bit of white lithium grease you can buy cheaply online and you're good. The pedal is also hall effect, so there's no need to worry about moving parts and potentiometers.
I just ordered a set so I hope so 🤣
They need MUCH better software. I've owned these for 2 years now.
Like subscribe so he can buy a new pair of jeans. Just saying
Guys i have a question. My brake started sticking a little and its starting to get anoying because it isnt smooth at all. I lubed the spring shaft (where you put your springs) but it still sticks. If somebody knows a solution, reply to this comment.
What do you mean with sticking?
@@joost1183 it isnt smooth when I feather it back and forth and when I press it slowly. Its as I'd you are stepping on something sticky with your shoes (and know I havent poured anything on them)
You need to open them and grease the joints/axes
Look at the sim racing garage review to see how to open it and where tu put the grease (basic lithium or silicone). Best way is to completely disassemble the brake, clean all the parts and grease the moving ones. Might as well do the other 2.
If you're not comfortable taking the whole brake appart, using some silicone oil on the axes would be easier but would probably need to be done at least once a year
@@escalator9734 my problem is that i still have warranty and i dont want to do it because of that.
@@preslavnedyalkov5432 If you contact Thrustmaster and tell them about your problem than they let you to open it without validating the warranty. Trust me I tested it. They told me how to open it and grease it to eliminate some spring noise.
bruh you need some new jeans lol. What are your legs made of cinderblocks? your ankle isn't as thick as your thigh lol, the jean should taper in.