Setting Up a Guide Plate, Belaying and Lowering from the Top
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- Setting Up a Guide Plate, Belaying and Lowering from the Top
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This is the best guy, simplest explanations!
Great production as always, however I think for a topic like this it's worth showing the way to lower by using bodyweight and a backup. In practice I've found the biner method to be either impossible (esp with larger seconds) or rather sketchy, as there isn't really a sweet spot between fully locked off and fully open in guide mode.
Thank you! We made another video specifically on lowering from the top. In that video we shows a more advanced bodyweight/backup method: ua-cam.com/video/V12J07TZZ2w/v-deo.html For the biner method, controlling the brake strand helps finding the sweet spot.
As you mentioned in another reply, redirecting the brake strand is the way to go when lowering with a guide mode atc, for better control.
Here is the video: ua-cam.com/video/V12J07TZZ2w/v-deo.html It is specifically about lowering from the top. The third way shown in that video uses bodyweight/backup which is a more advanced technique.
@@videoracles Thanks. Really digging these videos. Great work!
Excellent video!! 😀. This video simplifies the technique of lowering a follower when belaying in guide mode. Will apply this (biner method) going forward. Thanks Roddy 😀👍
Greetings from South Africa. Heinrich
Lowering off on guide mode as shown is massively dangerous. On your grigri (from the top) video you showed how to redirect the loose strand, and this should be done here too, not to mention a 3rd hand (prusik) would be recommended too, or a LSD (Load Strand Direct).
Roddy's reply:
Hi Miguel,
These are the techniques as taught and practiced by all the guides I know. Not sure what part you think is 'massively dangerous'. I do teach the LSD lower and that one certainly does require a third hand back-up.
Best,
Roddy
This method is also in Petzl's Reverso manual.
Should probably mention that the second method is a bad idea unless you are specifically using the DMM Pivot.
It's somewhat of a bad idea with any guide device, and can be hard to actually do with a fully weighted rope. If you really need to lower the climber more than a few metres it's well worth using body weight to tilt the device and have a prussik back up.
The DMM Pivot is great but there are many other devices on the market that can be used similarly.
We made another video specifically on lowering from the top. In that video we shows a more advanced bodyweight/backup method: ua-cam.com/video/V12J07TZZ2w/v-deo.html
It works great with people of similar weights. Lowering a much heavier climber this way w/ ATC XP or Reverso may not work.
Clipping the carabiner through the keeper loop as shown at 0:52 helps with the skinny-rope problem discussed at 1:15
I used to use a guide device like this, but now I prefer the munter because it's easy to lower. It doesn't lock, but neither does a regular atc.
We'll upload a video called "Belaying with a Munter Hitch" in a couple of weeks. The downside of belaying with a Munter is that it can kink your rope.
In practice I haven't found that belaying with a munter kinks the rope IF you keep both strands parallel to one another. This is pretty easy when belaying off of an anchor that is located a few feet or more above waist level. Rappelling with a munter, which can be done, is a whole 'nother story.=:o)