IMPORTANT NOTE: When following a lead and approaching the anchor, the clove should be "tied in the air" instead of handshake method. Even with a grigri there is a chance that the cam can get blocked by a carabiner if a fall is experienced in the middle of tying the clove with the handshake method.
The only thing I would say here, is I would try to orient myself where the lever of the GriGri is facing out instead of pinched against the rock. You might need to lower the follower. Also you don't want the lever grinding against the rock and possibly working itself into a released position while pinched against the rock.
The alternative is the have the friction plate potentially against the rock, which I'd say is much worse. Creating sharp scrapes and burrs on that is not a good idea.
Hi Jason, I have a scenario question. Let's say I'm on a 1-pitch sport route where the anchor wanders a lot. I lead climb up, climber #2 does a reverse lead to get to the top. What is the best approach so that climber #3 can also do a reverse lead with me belaying from the top? Would the leader typically climb with two ropes, do you try to lower back through the quickdraws, or does the leader just climb twice?
I’m not sure what you mean by “reverse lead” but I’ll assume follow while unclipping gear. I would basically do a caterpillar setup with climber 2 in the middle of the rope. Climber 2 climbs up, unclips as they go but reclips the rope between them and climber 3 (so climber 3 will have to unclip the pro as well. Once climber 2 gets to the top, they can chill while you bring up climber 3 or you can fix the top at the mid point and you can lower them from your end of the rope (assuming you’ve clipped on indirectly). You can prerig your rappel and lower them (see my other videos). Climber 3 can climb up and then you can lower them… now you have your rappel rigged… maybe climber 3 cleaned your gear… now you rap down with a fireman’s belay or third hand.
@@summitseekersexperience Yes - a follow-up lead, sorry. Very interesting, I wouldn't have thought about this but it makes total sense. Really appreciate the great content. I've done a fair bit of single pitch sport climbing & cleaning, but only a few multipitch routes as a follower. Your videos have been perfect for someone with that level of knowledge to get more familiar with different concepts in anchor building, rapping, rescue, etc. Thanks again for the tip!
If the follower were then to lead a second pitch, do you need to change the orientation of the gri gri at all to belay from there, or is it ready to belay a leader as is?
I always recommend to be lowered vs. rapping but if you wanted to rap, yes, two PAS's (or one and clove to the other... longer) in each bolt, set the rap up, then you're off
nice job johnny
IMPORTANT NOTE: When following a lead and approaching the anchor, the clove should be "tied in the air" instead of handshake method. Even with a grigri there is a chance that the cam can get blocked by a carabiner if a fall is experienced in the middle of tying the clove with the handshake method.
Johnny is awesome
Excellent straightforward vid! And thanks for Jimmy's zoom up on that clove hitch
Johnny should look into a career in cinematography!
Martin Scorsese has already contacted him!
excellent video, johnny did great
He's one of our most valued team members ;-)
Thanks for some great videos. Im planning to get outside again after taking 2 years off. Good refresher.
Nice, get it dude!
Love to see the skillzboard 😎😎
The only thing I would say here, is I would try to orient myself where the lever of the GriGri is facing out instead of pinched against the rock. You might need to lower the follower. Also you don't want the lever grinding against the rock and possibly working itself into a released position while pinched against the rock.
The alternative is the have the friction plate potentially against the rock, which I'd say is much worse. Creating sharp scrapes and burrs on that is not a good idea.
Hi Jason, I have a scenario question. Let's say I'm on a 1-pitch sport route where the anchor wanders a lot. I lead climb up, climber #2 does a reverse lead to get to the top. What is the best approach so that climber #3 can also do a reverse lead with me belaying from the top?
Would the leader typically climb with two ropes, do you try to lower back through the quickdraws, or does the leader just climb twice?
I’m not sure what you mean by “reverse lead” but I’ll assume follow while unclipping gear.
I would basically do a caterpillar setup with climber 2 in the middle of the rope. Climber 2 climbs up, unclips as they go but reclips the rope between them and climber 3 (so climber 3 will have to unclip the pro as well.
Once climber 2 gets to the top, they can chill while you bring up climber 3 or you can fix the top at the mid point and you can lower them from your end of the rope (assuming you’ve clipped on indirectly). You can prerig your rappel and lower them (see my other videos).
Climber 3 can climb up and then you can lower them… now you have your rappel rigged… maybe climber 3 cleaned your gear… now you rap down with a fireman’s belay or third hand.
@@summitseekersexperience Yes - a follow-up lead, sorry. Very interesting, I wouldn't have thought about this but it makes total sense. Really appreciate the great content. I've done a fair bit of single pitch sport climbing & cleaning, but only a few multipitch routes as a follower. Your videos have been perfect for someone with that level of knowledge to get more familiar with different concepts in anchor building, rapping, rescue, etc. Thanks again for the tip!
If the follower were then to lead a second pitch, do you need to change the orientation of the gri gri at all to belay from there, or is it ready to belay a leader as is?
You want the belay device on the belayers harness when lead belaying
For a cleaning aspect, would you just put up a personal anchor, clean and then rap?
I always recommend to be lowered vs. rapping but if you wanted to rap, yes, two PAS's (or one and clove to the other... longer) in each bolt, set the rap up, then you're off
Does that lock properly when upside-down without a re direct
Yes it does. However, when you lower, you need to utilize a re-direct.
Thank you for this video! Your content is incredible
I guess it's a good practice to keep in the brake side the same hand you are trained to when belaying the leader...
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