FIREWOOD Turned Into DREAM KITCHEN BUTCHER BLOCK Pt 1
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- Опубліковано 14 гру 2019
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This is PART ONE of this butcher block project. Parts 2 & 3 coming soon!
Have you thought about hydro dipping them?
HOooLY! 10K views in an hour!
Just a quick question or 3 lol, I know you hate to paint, if you used a rattle can, did you shake the can for 3 mins before spraying so the metal ball that rattles around can mix up the paint or did you start spraying right away ?, that can cause the paint to either look uneven or look a little dull in some spots and shinny in other spots and can cause streaks if the paint isn't mixed enough, example: if you get glossy paint and you don't shake the can more then 5 seconds then that paint can look dull but if you shake it for 3 minutes and let it mix fully then it will look right, how many coats of paint did you spray on ?
If you spray 1 coat very thick then you risk having runs, if you spray 1 thin coat then it looks dry and doesn't cover good, if you spray 1 thin coat then let it flash for 10 mins then spray another 1 thin even coat then let it flash for another 10 mins then spray 1 last thin coat then you can either let it dry and be done or add a clear coat to bring more shine out with 2 thin even coats with 10 min flash times between each coat.
For the clear coat if you use it make sure you shake it just like the paint for 3 mins before spraying it so it can mix it up good. How did you spray the paint ?, did you spray fast or slow, did you spray in even over lapping a little on each pass, did you spray 2 inches from the surface of the wood or 6 inches from the surface, What type of paint did you try to spray ?, is it for wood or other. Did you ask about the paint before trying to use it ?
Just in case you don't know what flash time is it has to do with the amount of time it takes for the solvents to evaporate before applying the next coat of paint. The kind of paint you use, which type of paint job you want and the temperature all affect the duration of a flash coat.
Wow I typed a lot lol, your videos are awesome, keep doing what your doing man and good luck on the house. Sending happy thoughts your way :)
You're doing some amazing work Jesse, Alyssa, and Anna! Love your channel.
What is the program you're using for the 3D modeling of your cabinet's?
actual video about the butcher block starts at 10:15 . My lord, the rambling...
Jessie, Wood filler is the all important step of filling the wood grain pores to produce the perfectly flat surface that gives the final clear finish a glass-smooth shine. They are many types available but my favorite is Aqua Coat.
That is why a lot of companies use MDF, because it is perfectly smooth. Basically Jessie, whatever you can feel you will see when you paint it.
NOOOOOOO, Softwood Countertops ??? I know its prob too late. I would seriously reconsider. Of course you can replace 'em years from now.
There’s a reason most cabinet shops use mdf for inset panels. It’s dead flat, smooth, and takes paint wonderfully.
like everyone else is telling you sand and seal closes the grain right off
the shop will do that,after they scrape the BAD paint job down :)
As far as I'm concerned it isn't a "butcher block" unless it is end-grain. The idea is that you can cut directly on it. If a knife hits endgrain, the grain will close up again. If the knife hits side-grain it will split it, and cross-grain will be cut, leading to splintering of the wood, even if you use hardwood (which you aren't).
Sorry to break it to you but commercially speaking, the sidegrain is butcher block. And any furniture supplier/timberyard that stocks this kind of stuff will refer to it as such.
Well considering they're making a work top and not a butcher block they're fine. When they say Butcher Block 'Style' do you just ignore that?
@@danielfay When did they say "butcher block STYLE" other than when they were referring to that gift-which actually was end-grain butcher block, though obviously not a cutting board?
I wasn't complaining about the style of countertop they were making, just stating that I would not call it "butcher-block." It's just part of a general malaise I have about people who are trying to sell stuff watering down specific terms to refer to lesser products.
Are you sure you want to use softwood for your butcher block countertops?
This has probably been asked a million times before but, you're building cabinets and you still haven't clad the house yet??? What are you waiting for?
Just like the question this has been answered a million times before . . .
Sure putting a lot of effort into that IKEA furniture
I would suggest primer/sealer and sand between coats until you can't see the wood grain.
If you want to continue using your shop vac for dust collection, i would suggest adding a cyclone separator.
Take it from a painter that paints cabinets everyday you don't use rattle cans use a sand or sand sealer and sand it and you use a Kilz product a Kilz primer I paint all my cabinet doors by hand and I can make them look like they've been sprayed quit using rattle cans to paint everything that's not the option and if you're going to paint something white use a white primer not a gray primer
I like how you assume that all this rough sawn lumber you are bringing in from outside is dry. Since you like to plan everything out, have you planned what you are going to do when everything starts warping and cupping? And your cabinet face frames start coming apart?
I am waiting to see if they show us what happens to the carcass built using face frame joinery (Kreg). Very little structural strength there.
@@john543 Agreed. And if I'm not mistaken he is going to cover the sides with another piece of panel. Glue and screws if your going to hide the sides anyway.
having been a woodworker for almost 40 years. paint is not a pore filler. paint will never fill anything. for a perfectly smooth no pore finish - before priming put a fine grain filler on the wood, then sand it smooth. then prime , then color coat. only prime with Zinnser 123, pretty much anything else isn't worth it. works everytime. woodwise is a super fine grain filler i use
THIS! The thing is he isn't doing himself any favors with the type/grade of plywood he is using. Having said that, there are many different types of grain fillers out there that do the trick and would solve this problem entirely. I don't agree that Zinnser 123 is the only primer worth using. I've used many different types with great results (and some bad ones too!). Anyway, yes, paint is not a grain filler and trying to make it that only leads to frustration.
So when painting raw wood, you need a sanding sealer first, then primer then paint. Done in this order, sanding between each coat, you can do a great job with 2 coats of paint. First one is color coat, second is finish coat.
My experience with plywood is that a sealer is needed even before a primer is applied. Ply tends to be like a sponge.
Should have used a grain filler before you painted. Rubs into the grain and fill, then sand and paint. Never used it after painting, may still work, and paint again.
It would still work. Simply sand what he has done so far so create a scuffed surface, apply some sanding sealer, sand, prime and LACQUER or HAND PAINT.
Shellac before painting. Dries almost instantly & seals the wood pores.
Primer filler for the panels before painting.Just some advice.
everyone remember... when giving them advice ... this video was shot months ago... they are long past able to make use of any of your advice.... so ... you know
Painting cabinets requires building primer to make smooth. Great job.
I absolutely love these more finish carpentry type videos with the cabinets and now this counter top, really cool what you’re doing. Keep it up.
Excellent use of the timber frame scraps!
Big tease @9:52 with your "secrets" tab on full display? Oh the questions I have 😂😂
If you want a smooth surface with no grain, then you need to use a high fill primer, and then SAND it. Give up the instant gratification idea with regards to paint, you have to put nearly as much effort into the finish as you do the product. You can still salvage your paint, just sand it down using 220-600 grit and THEN you can spray the final coats of paint. This is across the entire bit of paint end-users, cars (with smooth surfaces) still have to be sanded otherwise you get “orange peel” which is the same thing as what you are dealing with. That has to be sanded smooth, and then the final clear coat can be applied and then polished.
The secrete to paint is the amount of solids in it. The more solids, the more it cost. Use only alkyd based paint. A sprayed on primer is actually a filler/primer. If you sand it down to the wood to make it ultra smooth you have just sanded off the primer. Then when you apply the finish coat it still reacts like you never primed it and this seems to be your problem. One coat of primer and two coats are all that is needed.
How do you afford three pieces of heavy equipment, a giant tree saw deal, and an airplane?
Work?
I hope they tell you sanding sealer at the hardware store.
Jessy, Please start reading your viewer's comments, If you thought to get a good finish on your door was hard Don't even try a butcher block top. You have had so much good information given but you just seem to ignore it.
That shirt looks like you just butchered a wild cow
Again, use a thick primer (SW Pro classic) and sand, then use a house type latex or oil base paint Use your Graco airless sprayer. I did my kitchen cabinets and they look professionally done.
Sanding sealer on everything then Automotive body filler for filling in grain and gaps/joints. Having said that the easiest way finish your cabinets is to have someone else do it for you!
Automotive body filler oh pros use that over here it PV35 don't know the make but remember the code :)
painting is 95 % prep...5% paint. more sanding, more sealer fill cracks and gaps with spackle.
I would pay $50 to have that shirt thrown away and never have to look at it again.
i agree jeezzz what compound does this guy sweat
For a great finish you need to seal the grain as to fill the pours.
Need better grade of plywood. And fill the joints. We use bondo for painted things and wood filler for stained/natural cabinets
I agree . I am just a hobbyist and don't build much, but use cabinet grade plywood. more layers, stronger, more durable. And yes Bondo is a easy material to work with . We have a clear pine cabinet that I built and I made a bad choice on using a board with a lose knot. I filled the knot hole with bondo and painted it brown, only I know, has lasted for years.
i paint for a living paint is not ment to fill anything it just covers
why would you do grey primer? Were you trying to tone down the white?
You needed to use a sanding sealer with a high silica content. This will fill your "divots". Sand and fill again if necessary before applying the finish coat. Painting is 90 to 95% preparation before the final coat. There are no shortcuts to doing it right.
You've gotten a ton of advice on how to treat your raw wood before painting. There's a lot of ways to skin a cat in this case. Sanding sealer, primer or gesso will do the trick. Also wallpaper sizing will do the trick. I've had the best results with gesso and sizing. And they aren't expensive.
Please get to the bottom line sooner !
I love watching you doing this kind of work. Taking something in the boneyard into something possibly beautiful.
Jesse the problem with the paint not taking could be because you lacquered the wood first hence making a seal on the wood, then trying to paint ontop of it and hoping it will sink into the wood grain and giving you a lovely light reflecting finish. The sealant has basically stopped the paint from penetrating the wood surface.
you're gonna owe the sister for all this work
Prep, primer and a light sanding and two coats of paint you would have been done.
What ever happened to building the house?
Eggshell finish ...
From shiny to matte this is the order of finishes;
Glossy
Semi glossy
Eggshell
Satin
Flat/matte
I think that cart has seen better days lol
You should watch Renovision DIY, it’ll teach you everything
When I’m painting wood projects (plywood included) I fill all the holes and big gaps at joints etc with drywall hole filler compound stuff. Then sand it smooth. Then when painting sand between coats otherwise you will never fill the wood grain. I’ve also seen others use grain filler prior to painting with success.
"To get the live edge off..." not something I was wanting to hear! A live edge on that countertop would look amazing!
I can not wait! To see what the finish will look like!
if your planner cant do any knots take it outside and run over it this the backhoe
Where would you be without your sister?
I agree
It will be good Jesse to see what your cabinet finish turns out like.
Those short boards are going to give you a serious snipe issue.
PAINT IS NOT FOR FILLING GAPS, ITS A FINISH. PLY WOOD NEEDS FINE SURFACE FILLER AND A SEALER. THINK LOGIC. LIKE SO MANY FOLLOWERS OF YOURS SAY DONT OVER THINK THE JOB,
yep
Butcher Block out of fir????? Really soft. Not sure I would have done that for my countertops.
Jess, something you may think about is putting liquid glass as your final finish on the countertop. It's not that hard to do and it looks beautiful.
Jesse if you plan on painting your cabinets use 1/4 inch MDF for the panels, they will paint up beautifully with no grain lines.
ive old panel doors from the 30's or earlier and they paint up great even when i took many years of paint off down to the bare wood,need to prep them so the panels come out looking like glass smooth.... same goes for the frames too
I've never seen Pine used to make a butcher block but if it's just the look your going for it should be fine with a tough finish on it. If you actually intend to cut meat on it your probably going to need to stabilize each piece of wood in epoxy resin to make it work long term.
I saved knots. Made a butcher block knots. Beautiful when finished.
Applying the paint with a roller would have got better results. Forces the paint into the pores and gaps. Starting with a grain filler would have yielded even better results.
So would using an epoxy 'wipe' as a primer and sealer. This can be colored as well to reduce the number of final coats. 'Dry' time is reduced too.
Remember Jesse, a lot of times it’s the imperfections in the wood that becomes beautiful later!!! 👍👍👍😎🇨🇱
I think it looks great!
I usually use a grain filler, once dry, I sand it smooth, then I use a sponge roller ( as I like the texture) to put on the final coats
Do yourself a favor and build a cyclone separator for your dust collection. Will make your life some much better. Kinda shocked that you don't have one now. So easy to make!
rich hubert yes I use one and no more clogged filters
Wrong product for the application. Try a filler primer or self leveling paint.
The casual way you go through your wood piles scares me to death. I use to do like you do, until I came face to face with a timber rattler.
Or in my case a Brown Recluse Spider.
Love the secrets tab on the note pad! You just won the internet today
hey jesse you know you should put in a air filltraction system for your garage so you so it will pickup all the fine dust partecals
They Also need siding too
Titebond 3 is one of the best wood glues and has a longer setup time than most. A small tray and foam roller makes application easy
this is going to look great!!! and yes I herd you say temporary counter top
If you're looking for a smooth finish, several coats of lacquer sanding sealer, sanded between each coat. Finish off with a couple coats of your satin. There are several companies making some very good water based finishes. General Finishes is one.
Have to use Sanding Sealer!
Primer makes the paint stick but doesnt hide the grain.
"Sanding Sealer"... It says that on the can. It's not just a generic description of a result.
Seriously! A cyclone separator such as Dust Deputy and you'll never clog your shop vacuum again!
You have to de-nib by sanding between every coat of paint, there is no other way, you could put on 60 coats of paint but without the sanding between it will not look good. I did not comment last time because someone else had already told you to sand. Listen to Graham Nightingale he has even put it in capitals.
Cyclonic dust separator build!
On the cabinets problems with the paint. Take a few lessons from autobody repairers. Lightly sand or use a fine to very fine steel wool. Between coats of paint. This will fill in the low spots and open up the high spots to take paint. My rule of thumb is for every coat of paint you use a clear coat or a satin coat. Their is not any short cut to cover the grain on wood.
doug fir will bleed pitch after you stain or paint it, particularly once it gets warm/hot. if it's not kiln dried you are likely going to have problems. don't get me wrong, i applaud your effort and initiative.
Your sister is awsome
Sand down and use a high fill primer. Fills in the gaps and creases then paint. High fill is often used in automotive applications.
You need to fill the voids before you paint and sand. Bondo works great for edges and flats and caulk the inside edges with painter's caulk. Smooth with your fingers. Paint with a primer sealer then lightly sand with 220. Spray your primer filler and lightly da sand with 220+ till you get surface texture where you like. Then spray
Cabinet construction looks great though good job!
Sadly, don't wast your time. They will not only ignore advice from folks that know more than them (him), but they wont even respond.. let alone read. I am the end of my interest.. and I started watching at THE VERY BEGINNING.
@@themanonthestreet this video is also 3+ months old... they havent done the "real time" videos since they got the frame done
Varnish can be brush applied and sprayed with a conventional gun.
that wood is going to be to soft, if that is fir you are using
You can use your shop vac but you need a cyclone separator, there are tons of videos on here with different ways to do it.
ok so did prime, but yes white is used for white or light-colored finishes. if primer soaks in then need 2 coats of primer. colored paint costs more than a primer.
Thank You for your video. I look forward to your next video.
Sanding sealer will help seal the wood prior to painting by filling the porous ply wood. Keep up the good work.
Get a spray gun, those cans are for little touch ups, otherwise super expensive! Better still a roller and paint pad is the better approach, brushing takes some skill.
Paint or finish coats can only cover as flat as the base coat it is applied to. In the case of paint, you use primer (maybe 2 coats sanding each until it is flat or fills in the grain). I the case of clear coats, sanding sealer is the ticket and should only need one coat w/ sanding between the sealer and clear finish coats (maybe 2 finish coats at most).
Primer & sealer coats must be flat for the paint to be flat !!
Pleeeease do a cyclone system for your shop vac ... it will perform and help your dust collection... it is quick, cheap and it works.
I would have used new construction primer, sanded and then painted with latex... but they look better than most I’ve seen from DIYers!
Butcher blocks always use end grain. It won't get cut.
PS.. Ditto on the cyclone dust collector. WAY more efficient that what you have. I have one and love it.
A good coat or two of wood sealer with a light sanding between coats would have eliminated the 'surface tension' issue. Like all paint jobs it's 80% prep and 20% applying the final paint. Good job on the woodwork, well done.
You should considered the Benjamin Moore Advance paint, it’s great on furniture.
Use a sanding sealer
I know there's a long lag time in the video's releases, but did you use something like Floetrol?