Dry pour concrete vs wet pour concrete... which will come out ahead in strength in this scientific test? Enjoy this video? More great concrete content here: kerfonline.com/z3ga
To be fair to wet poor, it could not drain or work like it was supposed to. What I would like to see it make 2 blocks on the ground and allow the water to do as inteded for both types.
I've read that the secret to the strength of Roman concrete is that it is constructed damp so that it can be molded and packed. The Roman Pantheon is the world's largest non-reinforced concrete dome and was completed and dedicated at around 126 AD.
Dry pour is crap for anything important. Because you can't see and nor control the moisture consistently. The top could look perfect, but underneath be excessively wet or dry in areas and you won't even know it. With a mixer or truck you see and know exactly what you're getting.
The beauty of dry poor is that you can use it directly on level ground without removing grass weeds etc. Frame out samples straight on the ground exactly the same and test that. Wetting the dry pour the correct way and having your wet pour with correctly ratios
Perhaps if you used a plastic container (like the Costco Round Cake containers, after the cake is eaten) and put some drainage holes in them, so the water doesn’t sit in the concrete the whole time, and then re-do your test? That was great seeing you do this test, as I am heavily leaning on using the dry pour method for lots of home projects! You two are awesome! Thanks for sharing!
The wet pour was way too wet when poured, which greatly weakens the concrete. Notice the aggregate is not breaking, a sure sign of a weak concrete slurry. The dry mix probably ended up with a much better water / cement ratio in the end and would test much better in a compression test, an easy more scientific test that any ready mix plant could run for you. Search UA-cam for concrete compression test cylinders for more info.
I am so glad that you are back! I have enjoyed you guys over the years and have really missed you.. I think what happened to you was terrible and I am so sorry. It totally changed my plans to start a channel. The one thing I always admired about your channel was that you were not know-it-alls and would run trials and tests thus we all learned together. I am planning several sheds where there is not a heavy load on the floor except for the perimeter. I think the dry pour would work just fine if I made a dry beam on the perimeter. If I was driving on it, not convinced yet. Have seen several other UA-cam site that are also running experiments so we are all learning.
Better sample build would be two wood wall squares, filled lying on natural ground, so similar to a pour in normsl use. Allows natural water soak into the ground as would exist in the real use conditions. I would tend to be more trusting of the results than this glass bowl, trapped moisture manufacture. You surely have some wood boards to use for box frame building.
On your second drop of each concrete piece, from the footage you opened up your hand to let the wet pour free fall but the footage of the dry pour seems to show that when in the process of letting go you actually slightly pushed through with your hand, causing the concrete bowl to free fall faster. But as i said it is just how the video looks. Great to see you back with the comments being left 😊. As alway's guy's 💯% 👍 🇬🇧.
Ok my guess. Glassware did you in. Put into small square on the ground and the rain on the wet slows down and makes it harder. So make a form for both - outside and wet and dry and give it a try on using the ground and air for the two big sides. I think dry slowly generates xtals in the cement and therefore is stronger.
Dry pour seems to work good for areas you don’t care about the finish, like post holes. Possible footings? It does seem stronger than wet pour. But wet pour seems to be best for finished work like floors and walks.
The video I watched, be it only one, was said to take up water from the ground. Not sure if their location being at sea level had anything to do with it. High water table...? Also, they used a paint roller to level the mix prior to a mist coat, forcing the aggregate down perhaps?
Great to see the PLFL content back!! Maybe you should have drove your heaven truck over them for a better compression type test? I can't say what would work better for your application. A rougher surface may be good in cold icy climate. For a driveway? I'd go wet. Smiles and blessings...
The dry pour has no air in it because it slowly saturated the water . The wet pour was it vibrated it it wasn't it has air trapped causing it to have voids. Try it again but vibrate the wet so both have no air. Great test.
For all the concrete guys out there that are but hurt over these results… ‘dry pour sucks’, ‘your mix was too wet’… proof is in the pudding. I can see a few applications where dry pour would be far superior to wet. There are also a majority of applications where dry pour would be foolish as best.
Probably the dry pour benefitted by wide dispersion of aggregate. While wet pour had aggregate concentrated low down leaving top layers as brittle sand/cement mix. Not very impact resistant, and likely not wear resistant but having smooth surface finish. The dry mix will however be harder wearing by prsence of aggregate near surface, but also making it likely to hsve rougher surfaces, if not immediately certainly long term wear surfsce.
Once it is all hydrated I don't think it makes much difference. If the aggregate and cement is well mixed without voids it should be the same strength. I've had old bags of concrete set up in the bag sitting in my garage for several years.
Have placed more concrete in my life than I care to remember. House slabs, garages, carports, desks, sheds etc. Worked in the concrete industry for twelve years. I am also technically trained in concrete. Would not do a dry concrete pour anywhere on my property for any purpose even if someone else paid for it and placed it. Nit how concrete works as you said. Your wet pour was way to wet. For example, in a 5m3 load of N class concrete, 20, 25, 32, 40 and 50 mpa it only take 30L of water to pull the mix out of spec. I don't know what is on the instructions on the bags in the US but in Australia it is 2L of water fir a 20kg bag. With such a small amount of concrete it would take such a tiny amount of water to pull it out of spec. Minuscule. There is also what is called a cold joint. Where fresh concrete will not set to set concrete. In a dry pour, water seeping through at different rates and consistently over a slab you will end up with cold joints. Not how concrete is designed. Do as you will, but not how concrete designed. Would never ever do a dry concrete pour ever.
I would have been with you 100%. Even with all the obvious potential issues here the concrete was stronger than everyone expected. No way anyone expected concrete to survive that kind of abuse. It’s all in good fun. Concrete is an art learned over a lifetime. The rest of us are just guessing and hoping.
To be fair to wet poor, it could not drain or work like it was supposed to. What I would like to see it make 2 blocks on the ground and allow the water to do as inteded for both types.
You shot the dry pore twice..... Great video Jesse! 😁👍😁👍
I'm so happy you guys are making video again!
I am too
I've read that the secret to the strength of Roman concrete is that it is constructed damp so that it can be molded and packed.
The Roman Pantheon is the world's largest non-reinforced concrete dome and was completed and dedicated at around 126 AD.
Pedantic correction:
ft-lb is a unit of energy and psi is a unit of pressure. They are not directly comparable
You’ve been nominated chief of measurements! :)
These test showed to much water in wet pour and to little water in dry pour.
They make a specific type of concrete mix for dry pouring
Great to see you all putting out videos again have missed you guys. Keep being you and keep putting out the videos of it.
Take care
Dry pour is crap for anything important. Because you can't see and nor control the moisture consistently. The top could look perfect, but underneath be excessively wet or dry in areas and you won't even know it. With a mixer or truck you see and know exactly what you're getting.
The beauty of dry poor is that you can use it directly on level ground without removing grass weeds etc. Frame out samples straight on the ground exactly the same and test that. Wetting the dry pour the correct way and having your wet pour with correctly ratios
Perhaps if you used a plastic container (like the Costco Round Cake containers, after the cake is eaten) and put some drainage holes in them, so the water doesn’t sit in the concrete the whole time, and then re-do your test? That was great seeing you do this test, as I am heavily leaning on using the dry pour method for lots of home projects! You two are awesome! Thanks for sharing!
Good idea. Need to find better molds that allow for more real world test conditions. Bowls were fun to see the dry pour hydration process though!
The wet pour was way too wet when poured, which greatly weakens the concrete. Notice the aggregate is not breaking, a sure sign of a weak concrete slurry. The dry mix probably ended up with a much better water / cement ratio in the end and would test much better in a compression test, an easy more scientific test that any ready mix plant could run for you. Search UA-cam for concrete compression test cylinders for more info.
So glad y'all are back!
I missed you guys so much. I'm so glad you are back.
I am so glad that you are back! I have enjoyed you guys over the years and have really missed you.. I think what happened to you was terrible and I am so sorry. It totally changed my plans to start a channel. The one thing I always admired about your channel was that you were not know-it-alls and would run trials and tests thus we all learned together. I am planning several sheds where there is not a heavy load on the floor except for the perimeter. I think the dry pour would work just fine if I made a dry beam on the perimeter. If I was driving on it, not convinced yet. Have seen several other UA-cam site that are also running experiments so we are all learning.
Better sample build would be two wood wall squares, filled lying on natural ground, so similar to a pour in normsl use. Allows natural water soak into the ground as would exist in the real use conditions.
I would tend to be more trusting of the results than this glass bowl, trapped moisture manufacture. You surely have some wood boards to use for box frame building.
Hitting one side and blowing concrete out the other side is called the Dim Mak or Death Touch in martial arts. Learned that one from BLOODSPORT lol.
Looks like hit center mass on dry poor and edge on wet poor, can make a big difference.
That's amazing. My o my I wouldn't have believe that.
On your second drop of each concrete piece, from the footage you opened up your hand to let the wet pour free fall but the footage of the dry pour seems to show that when in the process of letting go you actually slightly pushed through with your hand, causing the concrete bowl to free fall faster. But as i said it is just how the video looks. Great to see you back with the comments being left 😊. As alway's guy's 💯% 👍 🇬🇧.
The arm drop method leaves room for a lot of interpretation. Haha!
The dry pours I've scene are typically outdoor jobs where rain will happen.
Depending on what type of finish you need.
Ok my guess. Glassware did you in. Put into small square on the ground and the rain on the wet slows down and makes it harder. So make a form for both - outside and wet and dry and give it a try on using the ground and air for the two big sides. I think dry slowly generates xtals in the cement and therefore is stronger.
Good suggestion but the bowls were fun for watching the hydration! Might have to move the experiment to a more legitimate testing method. Stay tuned!
Dry pour seems to work good for areas you don’t care about the finish, like post holes. Possible footings? It does seem stronger than wet pour. But wet pour seems to be best for finished work like floors and walks.
Interesting watch but I want to see a traditional compression test. :D
But that’s work! :)
The video I watched, be it only one, was said to take up water from the ground. Not sure if their location being at sea level had anything to do with it. High water table...? Also, they used a paint roller to level the mix prior to a mist coat, forcing the aggregate down perhaps?
Fun stuff, thanks!😄
The 6000PSI is more brittle than 300PSI. Food for thought!
Awesome work keep it up. I'm so glad your up again. You guys were my frist channel to join. Thanks again
Great to see the PLFL content back!! Maybe you should have drove your heaven truck over them for a better compression type test? I can't say what would work better for your application. A rougher surface may be good in cold icy climate. For a driveway? I'd go wet. Smiles and blessings...
If it works there’s certainly a lot of concrete tasks that dry pour would make so much easier. But maybe not for the pretty things. :)
I like a video that is fun and informative. This one is all that.
Learning need not be boring. We all had fun on this one. :)
The dry pour has no air in it because it slowly saturated the water . The wet pour was it vibrated it it wasn't it has air trapped causing it to have voids. Try it again but vibrate the wet so both have no air. Great test.
It was lightly jiggled by hand. Does that count? Lol.
Cool video
maybe hit the wet pour in the center with a bullet?
Thanks Jesse, this subject has been buzzing around a bit. Would never work (well) in a hot dry area.
maybe if you wet the ground first and poured just before sunset? High desert here, and that's what I would try. Wet pour sets up quite quickly here.
HELLO 🤗 i think dry pour would be worth trying 😉
very nice
Looks like dry pour is plenty strong for a walk or a stoop
Science!
Do dry and do it right.
I think you needed to put the same re-bar in each cement. Pinky had a lot more wire (re--bar) then the Orange. You still make a good educator.
It was pretty much identical!
Ugh....now you HAVE to make roman concrete.....just for the science
Can’t stop now!
A dryer wet pour :)
Not really a fair test. You really need to do on the ground not in a bowl
For all the concrete guys out there that are but hurt over these results… ‘dry pour sucks’, ‘your mix was too wet’… proof is in the pudding. I can see a few applications where dry pour would be far superior to wet. There are also a majority of applications where dry pour would be foolish as best.
Wet poor. Where water sits, can't be cement. Dry poor has les water, so more cement and is stronger. Greetings from the Netherlands.
Maybe the pink paint is harder? 😉
Crud. That’s a variable we hadn’t considered. Time to start over… ;)
Probably the dry pour benefitted by wide dispersion of aggregate. While wet pour had aggregate concentrated low down leaving top layers as brittle sand/cement mix. Not very impact resistant, and likely not wear resistant but having smooth surface finish. The dry mix will however be harder wearing by prsence of aggregate near surface, but also making it likely to hsve rougher surfaces, if not immediately certainly long term wear surfsce.
What is clear is it’s stronger then it looked! More questions than answers!
Skid Mark would have made for comical target practice. 😅.
Thanks Jesse & Alyssa 🍻
Once it is all hydrated I don't think it makes much difference. If the aggregate and cement is well mixed without voids it should be the same strength. I've had old bags of concrete set up in the bag sitting in my garage for several years.
Good point! Humidity alone can make a brick!
use the dry pour.
You have to employ some technique or dry pour will fail
Fry pour
Dry DryDry pour
Have placed more concrete in my life than I care to remember. House slabs, garages, carports, desks, sheds etc. Worked in the concrete industry for twelve years. I am also technically trained in concrete. Would not do a dry concrete pour anywhere on my property for any purpose even if someone else paid for it and placed it. Nit how concrete works as you said.
Your wet pour was way to wet. For example, in a 5m3 load of N class concrete, 20, 25, 32, 40 and 50 mpa it only take 30L of water to pull the mix out of spec. I don't know what is on the instructions on the bags in the US but in Australia it is 2L of water fir a 20kg bag. With such a small amount of concrete it would take such a tiny amount of water to pull it out of spec. Minuscule.
There is also what is called a cold joint. Where fresh concrete will not set to set concrete. In a dry pour, water seeping through at different rates and consistently over a slab you will end up with cold joints.
Not how concrete is designed. Do as you will, but not how concrete designed.
Would never ever do a dry concrete pour ever.
I would have been with you 100%. Even with all the obvious potential issues here the concrete was stronger than everyone expected. No way anyone expected concrete to survive that kind of abuse. It’s all in good fun. Concrete is an art learned over a lifetime. The rest of us are just guessing and hoping.
The levels to this video... high drop, home improvement, review, guns and for those intruders... dude can shoot. Hahaha. Meta.
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