Alignment issues with the 3rd Gen Monteros
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- Suspension bushings are one of the most overlooked maintence items on older 4x4 rigs. In this video i talk about why they matter and also detail how to remove stuck ones, an issue that plauges the gen 3 Mistsubishi Montero. This video is for the front, however the same exact issues and solution applies for the rear.
I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Montero limited all stock. 201k miles drives straight as an arrow no suspension issues, even tire wear. Glad I don't have issues such as this.
Great video man. I'm currently dealing with this in the rear and now I know what needs to be done to rectify it. 👍🍻
Bro... it’s deja vu from the last two months.
Your montero is my inspiration for mine.. keep it up man
Thank you!
Just did all my front end with polytuff really improved ride quality more than I expected going to do the rear end soon as well
very worth it. glad i finally got it done on mine
I'm really enjoying your videos as I plan to buy a Montero by 2022 since I'm currently boosting my daily so I'll need another daily. Definitely want the montero for daily/overlanding. Good to know this beforehand so that I can pay attention to it on the tuneup phase. Though I'm pretty confident the bolts should not be as seized due to my geographic location, I work at a dealership as a tech and rarely ever get seized bolts for any car thanks to this unless the owner lives near the beach. But will definitely be ready for it now thanks to you. Keep up the videos man, you're my role model haha
Hey just wanted to say absolutely love what your doing with your rig! I am actually in the middle of cutting out my frame and putting that pipe through to build a mounting plate for my metal bumper!
If it wasn’t for you I wouldn’t be doing this genius idea! Thank you!!!
Good luck!
Love your Montero build keep up the great videos man
Thanks, will do!
I did mine last year they were all seized and the bushings were all bad .what a job!
yeah it's no fun at all!
Fantastic stuff. Thank you
Years ago, I was swapping the rear on a Fox mustang and the lower control arm bolts were seized in the same way. I ended up using an Acetylene torch and, through the bolt hole, BURNING the rubber out! Messy, stinky, and definitely a fire hazard so keep an extinguisher handy. But as a last resort it can work.
That’s why I don’t use a torch on these, can’t risk catching the car on fire haha
Quite a technical video but still love it. If you wouldn't mind, it would be great to do a simple learning video on how to take out an service a CV joint. I'm keen on learning and DIY at home. Thanks
Noted! next time i have to do mine i'll probably do a video on it
Try Kroil! It's aerospace pb blaster. The heavy duty diesel guys use it too.
Excetylene and oxygen help quite a bit sometimes when working on suspension.
I torched my stuck alignment bolt. Came out easily.
You should look into a heat induction tool to get those siezed bolts. They have some vids about them swearing they're legit.
that could possibly work. the hard part is that the metal sleeve that seizes to the bold is incased in the rubber from the bushing. so even if you have a concentrated heat source it will transfer to the rubber and probably delaminate it or melt it. i suppose if you are already planning on destroying it to cut it out that it's worth a shot!
Where are you getting replacement alignment bolts. I can't help but notice mine are looking rusty I have a feeling my Montero will have this same problem
Luso overland has them
How did you replace the rear alignment bolts? Did you have to lift the truck and take the tires? Did you have to lift the rear suspension any?
you can remove the toe arm bolts with the wheels still on, or even with the car still on the ground. the lower control arm, springs and shock has to be removed to get at the camber bolts
I've got the same problem with my 5 yr old 4th Gen Pajero (or Shogun as called here in UK). Went for a wheel alignment and both front and back stuck solid. As the car is only 5 yrs old, do you think there is any chance to loosen them with lots of penetrating oil and say an impact wrench. I'd really like to avoid having to cut them out on all four wheels!
i have heard some people get away with penetrating oil. usually they have to soak it multiple times a day for a week or 2. it's worth a shot!
Alignment issue in the rear eating tires. Dealer says stuck in the control arm. so there is 4 per side? Every one is looking for part numbers.. Do we have them? - 2001 Montero Limited dare a I say sport - same body style in this picture.. Front LCA (MR418673) Rear LCA (MR418674) Rear Toe Link (MR418739) Plate (54559W000P) Nut (MU001083)
Are they rally selling them without the nuts? - so we need to order 8 - I need to see that is the correct part numbers for the rear - 4 LCA? What is the Rear Toe link does that have any thing to do with the Eccentrics?
there are 2 adjustment points in the rear. they use the same system of eccentric, but different bolts. There are camber bolts (located in the lower control arm, inner) and toe bolts (located on the toe arm, inner). each will require an additional adjustment plate, and a nut. So that's 4 bolts total, 4 plates, and 4 nuts.
@@montanamontero 4 bolts total for both sides
i will tell her to replace both lower control arms and get 4 bolts total
2 for right and 2 for left
dealer says stuck rusted
Would you be able to share a link to where you bought those bushings?
Lusooverland.com
Where do you buy your replacement alignment bolts?
any OEM mitsubishi dealer
I hate those bolts and bushings with a burning passing.
they really are the worst
I am a DIY merchanic. Next time don't cut the alignment bolt, try first heating up with butane gas torch to loosen the corroded bolt like alignment one. Secondly, air hammer it and wd40 grease then loosen it. Thirdly use impact driver. All those steps failed, final option is to cut it off or weld it of. Good luck.
These are good suggestions, and I tried all of them multiple times before committing to the saw haha. These get really stuck in there
@@montanamontero Yeah, man. Always remember, safety first especially for DIY work. It is better there is another assist person or second person to help you in case of emergency. Inflation is killing us and shop labor is high, we all know that but always always keep that in mind for safety priority. And it is best to follow the community diy pages. There are many community sites on google web and sharing tools needed with parts guide source and experiences and how to and safety equipment on site and easy to follow as well their sharing instruction and apply them in DIY with precaution is the best one.
I'd recommend to stay with OEM rubber bushings: Those neoprene or poly tough bushings are hard and does not flex as a rubber bushings. What ends up happening is with time, the welds can crack, ears that hols the bushings can bend. This has happened on several toyota trucks and is documented.
I would agree with you, except that Mitsubishi does not offer just the OEM bushing for these parts, you have to buy the entire arm to get the OEM bushing! So instead of it being a $30-$40 fix you are looking at hundreds of dollars in replacement arms. Also, not to start a war, but I find that these Mitsubishi parts are much stronger than the Toyota counter parts, at least in this department
Heat up the bolt with a blo torch then smack with a decent ball peen. Should move them then
I tried that too, nothin. when these seize, they really get locked in there. If you could put rotational force on the bolts (like in a normal situation) that might break them free, but the cams prevent them from much movement