Built an off grid 24 by 24 log cabin 12 years ago on well drained ground with floating posts in a similar brutally cold climate area. Worked out well, no noticeable shifting, doors and windows open/close without issue. So far so good.
Bark down to get a crown is counter intuitive from what I'd have thought, I'm glad you showed an example. I would have figured the opposite. My mill will be here soon, you have been a great source of knowledge in several areas
I use a lot of 5/4×6 pine fence boards that are "green" for fences, pig feeders, well/pump house, and other small things. I stopped using nails about 6 years ago. Torx head wood screws can be tightened as the wood shrinks and whatever I build can be taken apart without damaging the wood. The screws are a bit more expensive, but removing them does not damage the wood(unless you screw them in too deep) and 99.9% of them can be reused. I make various things like coffee and end tables, flags, address signs and boxes out of the recycled wood. I am in the process of researching saw mills and just watched your video about things to pay attention to when using the machine.
Sandy The method I use for boards to minimize cupping is When the wood smiles so will you. When the wood frowns you do to. Hint look at the rings at the end of the board on the flat sawn lumber
Thanks for the review Sandy! Great to see how the tiny house has made out over the years! Held up nicely that’s for sure! Appreciate all your tips! Andrew from NB :)
Hey brother, I cannot tell you how much I enjoy your videos. I buy into everything you have said and agree with the foundation and building green on this little house. I like your thoughtful narrative. It is not annoying. I totally get it. I just purchased a HM-122. I am going to build shed over it. Then I am going to build a post and beam carriage garage on a slab. This is sooo much fun!
I am glad to see your subscriber numbers going up each week. I encourage everyone watching smash those like and subscribe buttons so UA-cam’s algorithm pushes Sandy’s vids to show up more on others screens.
Great video, lots of great tips. I also have a sawmill and build with green lumber all time. You are a great resource and keep the updates coming. I live way up north , Fort Albany up on James Bay northern ontario. I build is make the foundation adjustable with helical posts. Eliminate the water and pretty much no frost issue. Easy foundation to install and focus on the building and producing lumber. Cracks in lumber can always be chinked. Love the tractor, just got one too. Will be posting a build of my sons house this summer.
The cupping will nearly always show up opposite the arc of the growth rings. As they dry they shrink & the curl forms as the outer rings pull on the inner ones from that shrinkage. As for the frost heave I think the tiny house is so small & has so many posts the lift should be mostly even except maybe right at the center where the ground water would be least.
thank you for explaining the cupping, seemed opposite what I would have thought would be the effect but your explanation cleared that up. but while this seems to go hand in hand with Sandys explanation of the floor boards it does not match the way he seemed to describe how to put on siding?
I had a 120 year old home built the same way. No frost but intermittent wet runoff and earthquakes. Place was totally plumb when I bought it. What is nice is if it shifts you can jack it and shim it.
Good timing on the foundation talk. I’m just about to start building a 12x20 post and beam shed with green lumber. I studied the different foundation methods. Here in Michigan I’ve always been told to put posts 3’-4’ deep to stay below frost line. Interestingly, after some research I also found that on grade foundation is very common in many places. Especially places further north where the frost line is so deep it’s very expensive to get beneath it. There, people do just what you did. It’s better to sit on grade than put a post in the ground too shallow. If you’re on grade and frost heaves the post, it will likely fall back to its original spot once thawed. If not, shim the posts as necessary. No big deal. If you put a post in the ground too shallow and frost heaves it, it will likely not go back down. And you won’t be able to pound it back down.
Some interesting points you brought up. I would like a concrete foundation but time and money and location all factored into my decision. Good luck with your build. Sure sounds like it'll be a nice building. Keep me posted
very nice straight forward information! as a matter of fact, I'm in central Florida, palm bay on east coast, its chilly here this 3rd week of November. not nearly as cold as where you are. great video's keep up good work..
Another great video. I am new to milling. This is jam packed full of information that will save time and lumber. Thanks for posting. I am new to your channel and happy to have found it. Keep up the great work.
Another foundation type that works crazy well vs frost and is very inexpensive. Pressure treated lumber laying lengthwise atop a base of 3/4” rock tamped down 2ft wide by 2ft deep by length of your beams. The rocks allow moisture to drain, keeps the lumber dry, minimizes frost heave, and disperses the weight of the home like a concrete foundation
I think "bark up" or down is a tough call. If the deck is wet a lot then yes. But if it's getting cooked all the time with little rain then it goes the other direction
Your videos are great. Waiting for my mill to arrive in Yukon...I see myself going through many of your same experiences. Thanks for all the work making these vids take.
When I lay decking(especially wet treated lumber) I rip a 1/4" deep kerf down the middle of the length of backside of boards = no cupping & a place the wood can move...always predrill my ends, & hand nail the entire deck for the best longest lasting job....old school.
We also get frost heaves in the winter so I used adjustable pier blocks on my 8x12 4 wheeler/ riding lawnmower shack. That way I can take a wrench an tweak it if needed. Also like to dig down an inch or so to give the block a bed to lay in. Don't know if this is right but has worked for me.
Love the Tiny house! The cracks, twists and gaps are not that bad at all. The wood at the big name DIY lumber stores is just awful. Over the years the wood has been so twisted, spongy, warped, cracked, chipped and somewhat green. I think that's it's a result of mass production and poor quality control. I have spent hours many times in the big lumber stores trying to find a few straight and somewhat descent pieces. Because of so much bad lumber in the stores I bought myself a sawmill. Yes a Woodland Mills. Now I can have real 2x4's, etc. like I use to be able to buy.
I have used spiral nails in the past and they are great for not pulling out and such...but do cost quite a bit more than box nails. Something I have not heard mentioned in any of your videos or comments is a technique I have used for over 20 years to prevent the same thing as spiral nails do but using regular nails(box or common) instead. If you nail at a slight angle(maybe 10 degrees) and make it so that not all nails are at the same angle... have first nail at 10 degrees one direction, next nail in opposite direction or straight in, they end up pulling against each other and the wood will not be able to pull up or loosen. This especially applies to plywood/osb. I remember taking the decking off a roof once with a shovel and the ENTIRE sheet popped off in a complete piece....every nail was put in perpendicular. I tried the same to a piece of plywood I had nailed that had to be removed and it was completely destroyed by trying to pry it up as I had nailed using a slight angle with each nail. Have you ever tried this method of nailing?
@@sawingwithsandy Early on in my carpentry career of 22 years(haven't been a carpenter for about 14 years...am a software developer now since that career ended back in 2006) a long time carpenter friend gave me this technique which I have used ever since...and have gone back to many projects years after completion and have never seen anything I have nailed come loose.
Most houses in the country side in the 1800's were floating. The rock house I live in was built in the 1890's with rough hewn green wood. The frame sits on rocks. Still a solid little 3 bed house.
Most timber frames are made from green lumber. The posts and beams do dry out over time and will shrink and crack a bit. If you mill your posts and beams to capture the pith in the dead center, it will dry evenly and minimize the drying stresses on the lumber. Even the kiln dried lumber from the big box hardware stores are still 20% moisture content or more. So do as Sandy said, butt them tight together and the will shrink to give you a gap. That bark down to get the crown is counter intuitive. One would think that the board would cup in the direction of the bark, since the tree was round to start with. As for the floating foundation, in some areas if you dig a hole for a post below your local frost line and sit it on a concrete block (round patio stone) and back fill it with dirt, it won't move.
@bwillan Yeah, when you install deck boards from say Lowes, you always butt them together so when they dry you get a nice gap, but you put the crown up instead of down like he did. Strange. Wonder what the difference is? His are obviously cupping the opposite way. I've never seen that before. Could it have something to do with the treated boards? I've built multiple decks, but never with anything other than treated lumber.
@@sawingwithsandy Lowes wood, especially treated wood, shrinks up so much you end up with 1/4 inch gaps between boards. You have to pay a premium for kiln dried wood. Most Lowes wood is green and heavy. And if you put the crown down like you do, they cup. It's a mystery to me why it's the opposite of your wood. I'll figure it out when I get my mill this spring.
During the 80s it was a big deal to put 10 inch cardboard tubes below frost and fill them with cement for a base to build off was done for some buildings and porches and such every one i was involved with have failed and if expensive to repair you have what all these that i have repaired been converted to. Your way is so easy to level up if ever need be .
So I’m not sure I really care about green lumber from my chainsaw mill vs hardware store lumber anymore. Cause all the things you are showing happens with all wood. And especially exterior wood. It shrinks it cracks it does all the things. Good review. Good to see what happens when you build with green lumber I’m going to be doing the same thing soon.
Great video. Agree with most everything, Except.. Here in Colorado the winds will more than likley at some point move that building or blow it down. That is the main reason here that we would want a positive conection to a concrete pier to prevent uplift. The max gust load here on the front range of Colorado is 150 mph, in the mountains it can be 200 mph. If you have good draining soil your frost heave is basically nothing. In the mountains here there is basically nothing as its mostly rock and sandy soil, which doesnt hold moisture..Great video!!!
We live in northeast Minnesota, near the BWCA, and many resorts have cabins built on floating foundations. We're currently building a 24x20 home on a floating foundation too.
Wow, awesome project! A shout out to you from Rhode Island (USA) So, in your area, di they sometimes cut a one inch notch in the posts to carry the deck rim joist? I bet your real good with a chain saw. I did a project called fake post and beam, the top of the 4x4 could be a 1 1/2 inch wide tenon lined up with the joint of the doubled up header. then each of the headers could be notched where it goes past the tenon. Notch could be 3/4 deep from top to bottom. Lots of saw cuts and then smash out the pieces. Real good education from you on using green lumber. Thanks
Hey John, thanks for tuning in. I've not seen too many notched out rim joists in m yday but I'm sure they're around here somewhere. I definetily put the hours on the chainsaw. It's a nice quick alternative to hauling out the miter saw sometimes. I like your fake post and beam setup. I'll keep that one in the back of my mind.
Good video you have! Very helpful. I will do the same in about a month on my cabin using cedar 1" thick board. About trim I see some install the trim last over the siding and others like you trim first. Any reason for that? Any regret doing it first? Thanks for your help. I bought some SS nails just to make sure it will not rust
I don't think frost will bother you, if you don't shovel around the house or saw mill shack. The snow will be deep enough to insulate the ground, and it won't freeze.
Sandy. I love following your posts. Is there a post where you share the plans for this cabin? I love the design. I am a Woodland Mills owner from southern Utah
Hey Burke! I don’t have any specific plans made up for this unfortunately as I just built it as I went. I’ll try to get some measurements down for ya at some point in the future
Fascinating, thanks. I'm not really an experienced builder, but may be working with one soon. Question: Why green lumber ? Out of necessity or choice ?
its still lookin good ..by the way ...tis old fart just learned somthing new again from ya on the bark side down for cuping ...never thought of that before ...you did nail the siding on the right way ...you blind nailed it ...and yes you probably could get away with some face nails now that it has dried but face nailing goes threw both boards and if its green when you hang it and face nail it the lap siding will split ...i seen many amatures make that mistake ...but the bark side in would definatly help like you said...onto yur post... i hate metal brackets that simpson makes and they dont prevent twisting ...what i like to do is cut a 2by4 for front and back of the beam and post 16 inches long roughly miter the bottom edge at a 45 degree for appearence and nail that onto the beam and post ...it provides the strength ya need for uplift and twisting and looks better then some cheep ugly grey simpson bracket ...ps.. i hope i aint coming across as some know it all ...cheers and happy sawing and building
You’re always welcome to share your experiences. I learn new things from good folks like yourself all the time. I’m going to keep that idea for my posts you mentioned. Thanks for sharing
I have always been told if you put smile up on wood decking the board can hold moisture, if you put smile down or frowning at you, the board will shed water better and not cup the moisture.. Has to do with the soft wood being able to absorb and hard wood of the grain being able to shed the moisture better. What do you think ? I never claim to be a know it all it just made sense to me.
I’ve also heard what you mention here. I’ve not put down hardwood boards before but I do notice with softwood that sometimes boards will move in both ways. I’m wondering as well if kiln dried wood moves differently than wet wood.
All the wood that I use is pine we have very little hard wood in northern Mont. as far decking goes I've lived long enough to see some of the decking I've built need replacing and where the smile got left up that wood is starting to rot & need replacing the smile down stuff is in a lot better shape. Thanks for the response back.
Just the kind of info I was looking for. Silly question but, do you think that using screws instead of nails for the framing and such could reduce at least marginally the twisting or cupping of some of the pieces? Does that make any difference at all in the frame work? I'm an absolute novice in building cabins, and I'm planning on building my own pretty soon.
It doesnt matter. Its more the placement of the fastener and you must place them as he demonstrates if you dont want everything to crack. Screws will not resist shrinkage but bolts where applicable, will
Hi Ricky, this building has no treatment on it. I find it lasts well as long as no water sits against the untreated would as would be the case with soil contact or a deck without a roof over it.
On pine what is drying time to get 50% moisture down. I have trees on the ground from storm damage for 60 days and will start cutting in the next 30 days
Hey Rex, I do have a pretty good shop but not necessarily designed for my tractor. Maybe that'll be in the future. I do have a well for my house drinking water. Property is right around 40 acres
Hey Marc, I just use this for guests and for when in want to camp out. I likely wouldn’t be able to flip the boards without Damage in the siding but I could do the flip for the deck boards without troubleb
Built an off grid 24 by 24 log cabin 12 years ago on well drained ground with floating posts in a similar brutally cold climate area. Worked out well, no noticeable shifting, doors and windows open/close without issue. So far so good.
That’s great to hear!
Bark down to get a crown is counter intuitive from what I'd have thought, I'm glad you showed an example. I would have figured the opposite. My mill will be here soon, you have been a great source of knowledge in several areas
Enjoy the mill. You will love it!
Love how you show your errors and what the better way to do it is. You're passing on great knowledge. Love it.
Best explanation of many topics I've ever found on UA-cam! Thank you so much! Beautiful place!
I use a lot of 5/4×6 pine fence boards that are "green" for fences, pig feeders, well/pump house, and other small things. I stopped using nails about 6 years ago. Torx head wood screws can be tightened as the wood shrinks and whatever I build can be taken apart without damaging the wood. The screws are a bit more expensive, but removing them does not damage the wood(unless you screw them in too deep) and 99.9% of them can be reused.
I make various things like coffee and end tables, flags, address signs and boxes out of the recycled wood.
I am in the process of researching saw mills and just watched your video about things to pay attention to when using the machine.
Love your channel. No BS. You don't fake anything.
Love your videos
Thanks for watching C L’
Sandy
The method I use for boards to minimize cupping is
When the wood smiles so will you. When the wood frowns you do to.
Hint look at the rings at the end of the board on the flat sawn lumber
Good way of putting it Chris
Southern ontario here. Just got my sawmill. Finding your videos great. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
We build with green lumber all the time. Thanks for video.
Thanks for this honest video, showing your little imperfections! This is the best way to learn!
This is a really good explanation, and it's nice to see your cabin after a year. It was lovely then, and it's lovely now. Thanks!
Thanks appreciate that
Great video. You always answer my questions as I run into the issue. Learned a TON from this channel. Thanxx as always buddy!!
Glad to hear I was able to help out . Take care and happy sawing
Thanks for the review Sandy! Great to see how the tiny house has made out over the years! Held up nicely that’s for sure! Appreciate all your tips! Andrew from NB :)
Thanks!
Bark down, get a crown. Awesome way to remember which way to install your boards, thanks!
Anytime. Thanks for tuning in
Thanks for this! I thought I would have to age wood for years after sawing it up!
I've had so called dried lumber wack out alot worse that that..especially treaded.. nice cabin man
This was VERY entertaining. You did Good! Thanks from Georgia.
Great to hear Don!
Hey brother, I cannot tell you how much I enjoy your videos.
I buy into everything you have said and agree with the foundation and building green on this little house. I like your thoughtful narrative. It is not annoying. I totally get it. I just purchased a HM-122. I am going to build shed over it. Then I am going to build a post and beam carriage garage on a slab. This is sooo much fun!
Great to hear Joe! Good to hear from folks like yourself. Sounds like a lot of good times coming up with that new mill. Happy sawing!
I am glad to see your subscriber numbers going up each week. I encourage everyone watching smash those like and subscribe buttons so UA-cam’s algorithm pushes Sandy’s vids to show up more on others screens.
Thanks Dan. Appreciate the support
I just love your videos keep up the great work 👍👍👍👍
Great video, lots of great tips. I also have a sawmill and build with green lumber all time. You are a great resource and keep the updates coming. I live way up north , Fort Albany up on James Bay northern ontario. I build is make the foundation adjustable with helical posts. Eliminate the water and pretty much no frost issue. Easy foundation to install and focus on the building and producing lumber. Cracks in lumber can always be chinked. Love the tractor, just got one too. Will be posting a build of my sons house this summer.
Thanks for watching. Sounds like a nice place up North where you are
Love the tiny house. that's really cool.
Cool building my sawmill shed this week with wet pine good tips 😁👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great video! Thanks for sharing!👍🏼😃
Thanks for coming along for the tour Jason
building a shed soon in vermont. thanks for the chat on the floating foundation
Glad I could help!
Love watching different building techniques. I am hurricane state we definitely use hurricane brackets here.
Awesome. I am literally about to mill beams and rafters for a cabin and was debating building green
The cupping will nearly always show up opposite the arc of the growth rings. As they dry they shrink & the curl forms as the outer rings pull on the inner ones from that shrinkage. As for the frost heave I think the tiny house is so small & has so many posts the lift should be mostly even except maybe right at the center where the ground water would be least.
thank you for explaining the cupping, seemed opposite what I would have thought would be the effect but your explanation cleared that up. but while this seems to go hand in hand with Sandys explanation of the floor boards it does not match the way he seemed to describe how to put on siding?
I had a 120 year old home built the same way. No frost but intermittent wet runoff and earthquakes. Place was totally plumb when I bought it. What is nice is if it shifts you can jack it and shim it.
Good timing on the foundation talk. I’m just about to start building a 12x20 post and beam shed with green lumber. I studied the different foundation methods. Here in Michigan I’ve always been told to put posts 3’-4’ deep to stay below frost line. Interestingly, after some research I also found that on grade foundation is very common in many places. Especially places further north where the frost line is so deep it’s very expensive to get beneath it. There, people do just what you did. It’s better to sit on grade than put a post in the ground too shallow. If you’re on grade and frost heaves the post, it will likely fall back to its original spot once thawed. If not, shim the posts as necessary. No big deal. If you put a post in the ground too shallow and frost heaves it, it will likely not go back down. And you won’t be able to pound it back down.
Some interesting points you brought up. I would like a concrete foundation but time and money and location all factored into my decision. Good luck with your build. Sure sounds like it'll be a nice building. Keep me posted
You are such a busy guy, Sandy, I would be willing to bet that you have seldom spent a night in your tiny house!
I sure am burning the midnight oil some days hava
very nice straight forward information! as a matter of fact, I'm in central Florida, palm bay on east coast, its chilly here this 3rd week of November. not nearly as cold as where you are. great video's keep up good work..
You could use mobile home anchors to help hold it in place.
Another great video. I am new to milling. This is jam packed full of information that will save time and lumber. Thanks for posting. I am new to your channel and happy to have found it. Keep up the great work.
Welcome to the channel! Glad you found it
I knew I liked you after watching a few of your videos. Heard Ontario, subbed. Keep going bud your getting it
Glad you found the channel Neil!
Great video definitely answers a lot of questions for us
using a real-life example to show you the long-term results. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
Good observations and assessments of your green wood build. Love your videos!
Thanks for keeping the channel going D R. Take care!
Great vid! And I like that lap siding way better than board & baton. Im gonna have to time travel back and watch your build vidoes.
Thanks I like it too. Defines nice look to the tiny house
Another foundation type that works crazy well vs frost and is very inexpensive. Pressure treated lumber laying lengthwise atop a base of 3/4” rock tamped down 2ft wide by 2ft deep by length of your beams.
The rocks allow moisture to drain, keeps the lumber dry, minimizes frost heave, and disperses the weight of the home like a concrete foundation
But would be unavailable in hard.
I think "bark up" or down is a tough call. If the deck is wet a lot then yes. But if it's getting cooked all the time with little rain then it goes the other direction
Your videos are great. Waiting for my mill to arrive in Yukon...I see myself going through many of your same experiences. Thanks for all the work making these vids take.
Hope the wait isn't too long for ya. Beautiful part of Canada you live in. Happy sawing!
What else can I say but absolutely beautiful relaxing peaceful God's country
You got me convinced, no green wood in my cabin build.
Very informative! Thanks! Enjoy your weekend!
Thanks Eric, you too!
When I lay decking(especially wet treated lumber) I rip a 1/4" deep kerf down the middle of the length of backside of boards = no cupping & a place the wood can move...always predrill my ends, & hand nail the entire deck for the best longest lasting job....old school.
I think that’s a great idea. I’ll have to remember that for the future. Thanks for passing that along
Sandy nice tiny house
Thanks Miguel
@@sawingwithsandyI love all you working nices you explain the bests ❤❤❤❤
We also get frost heaves in the winter so I used adjustable pier blocks on my 8x12 4 wheeler/ riding lawnmower shack. That way I can take a wrench an tweak it if needed. Also like to dig down an inch or so to give the block a bed to lay in. Don't know if this is right but has worked for me.
I like that adjustable pier block idea
good stuff, thanks for posting
Thanks for checking out the video Chris
Love the Tiny house!
The cracks, twists and gaps are not that bad at all.
The wood at the big name DIY lumber stores is just awful. Over the years the wood has been so twisted, spongy, warped, cracked, chipped and somewhat green. I think that's it's a result of mass production and poor quality control.
I have spent hours many times in the big lumber stores trying to find a few straight and somewhat descent pieces.
Because of so much bad lumber in the stores I bought myself a sawmill. Yes a Woodland Mills.
Now I can have real 2x4's, etc. like I use to be able to buy.
I'm with ya on that Paul. It's tough paying top dollar for marginal wood at some lumber yards.
I built my shed with green wood, Douglas, and I got no problem.
Good to hear it’s last well
I have used spiral nails in the past and they are great for not pulling out and such...but do cost quite a bit more than box nails. Something I have not heard mentioned in any of your videos or comments is a technique I have used for over 20 years to prevent the same thing as spiral nails do but using regular nails(box or common) instead. If you nail at a slight angle(maybe 10 degrees) and make it so that not all nails are at the same angle... have first nail at 10 degrees one direction, next nail in opposite direction or straight in, they end up pulling against each other and the wood will not be able to pull up or loosen. This especially applies to plywood/osb. I remember taking the decking off a roof once with a shovel and the ENTIRE sheet popped off in a complete piece....every nail was put in perpendicular. I tried the same to a piece of plywood I had nailed that had to be removed and it was completely destroyed by trying to pry it up as I had nailed using a slight angle with each nail.
Have you ever tried this method of nailing?
Interesting idea. I haven’t heard of this being done before. I may have to give it a try
@@sawingwithsandy Early on in my carpentry career of 22 years(haven't been a carpenter for about 14 years...am a software developer now since that career ended back in 2006) a long time carpenter friend gave me this technique which I have used ever since...and have gone back to many projects years after completion and have never seen anything I have nailed come loose.
Most houses in the country side in the 1800's were floating. The rock house I live in was built in the 1890's with rough hewn green wood. The frame sits on rocks. Still a solid little 3 bed house.
Sounds like they knew what they were doing when they built your place
Another great video. QUESTION: How did the sliding door frame and windows hold up to the shrinkage?
The deck on my house was built with treated box store lumber that still had the twisting and cupping he had with wood.
Most timber frames are made from green lumber. The posts and beams do dry out over time and will shrink and crack a bit. If you mill your posts and beams to capture the pith in the dead center, it will dry evenly and minimize the drying stresses on the lumber. Even the kiln dried lumber from the big box hardware stores are still 20% moisture content or more. So do as Sandy said, butt them tight together and the will shrink to give you a gap. That bark down to get the crown is counter intuitive. One would think that the board would cup in the direction of the bark, since the tree was round to start with. As for the floating foundation, in some areas if you dig a hole for a post below your local frost line and sit it on a concrete block (round patio stone) and back fill it with dirt, it won't move.
@bwillan Yeah, when you install deck boards from say Lowes, you always butt them together so when they dry you get a nice gap, but you put the crown up instead of down like he did. Strange. Wonder what the difference is? His are obviously cupping the opposite way. I've never seen that before. Could it have something to do with the treated boards? I've built multiple decks, but never with anything other than treated lumber.
That’s a good point about the pith in the centre. My trees are so small I’m just hoping for anything some days haha
Often this has to do with boards dried in a kiln like Lowe’s and mine dried in open air. Atleast that’s what I think the difference is
@@sawingwithsandy Lowes wood, especially treated wood, shrinks up so much you end up with 1/4 inch gaps between boards. You have to pay a premium for kiln dried wood. Most Lowes wood is green and heavy. And if you put the crown down like you do, they cup. It's a mystery to me why it's the opposite of your wood. I'll figure it out when I get my mill this spring.
4x4’s will twist from sunlight with treated limber also. I use 2x6’s or 6x6’s to limit the sunlight as much as possible.
I just finished digging under a 1973 built structure with a boulder pier foundation system.
That’s good to know that other buildings have done well without the concrete foundations
Great video sir!
Great work, btw
Thanks Tim! Keep me updated with your build
During the 80s it was a big deal to put 10 inch cardboard tubes below frost and fill them with cement for a base to build off was done for some buildings and porches and such every one i was involved with have failed and if expensive to repair you have what all these that i have repaired been converted to. Your way is so easy to level up if ever need be .
I think it should work well for this cabin. Hopefully no movement in the future
Awesome video man super helpful!
So I’m not sure I really care about green lumber from my chainsaw mill vs hardware store lumber anymore. Cause all the things you are showing happens with all wood. And especially exterior wood. It shrinks it cracks it does all the things. Good review. Good to see what happens when you build with green lumber I’m going to be doing the same thing soon.
Great video. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Thanks for tuning in.
Great video. Agree with most everything, Except.. Here in Colorado the winds will more than likley at some point move that building or blow it down. That is the main reason here that we would want a positive conection to a concrete pier to prevent uplift. The max gust load here on the front range of Colorado is 150 mph, in the mountains it can be 200 mph. If you have good draining soil your frost heave is basically nothing. In the mountains here there is basically nothing as its mostly rock and sandy soil, which doesnt hold moisture..Great video!!!
I can imagine that would make me want to put a secure foundation in as well
We live in northeast Minnesota, near the BWCA, and many resorts have cabins built on floating foundations. We're currently building a 24x20 home on a floating foundation too.
Good to hear I’m not alone here. Thanks for tuning in Lisa
I am too it’s on my channel
Nice video very informative.
Thanks Robert
nice little house
Do you have to worry about any mold build up in the walls while using green lumber? Thanks
If/when the ground shifts and begins to loosen the structure framing, use lag bolts for your bracing
Wow, awesome project! A shout out to you from Rhode Island (USA) So, in your area, di they sometimes cut a one inch notch in the posts to carry the deck rim joist? I bet your real good with a chain saw. I did a project called fake post and beam, the top of the 4x4 could be a 1 1/2 inch wide tenon lined up with the joint of the doubled up header. then each of the headers could be notched where it goes past the tenon. Notch could be 3/4 deep from top to bottom. Lots of saw cuts and then smash out the pieces. Real good education from you on using green lumber. Thanks
Hey John, thanks for tuning in. I've not seen too many notched out rim joists in m yday but I'm sure they're around here somewhere. I definetily put the hours on the chainsaw. It's a nice quick alternative to hauling out the miter saw sometimes. I like your fake post and beam setup. I'll keep that one in the back of my mind.
Good video you have! Very helpful. I will do the same in about a month on my cabin using cedar 1" thick board. About trim I see some install the trim last over the siding and others like you trim first. Any reason for that? Any regret doing it first? Thanks for your help. I bought some SS nails just to make sure it will not rust
I just wanted to prevent that window trim from having really deep sills and so I decided to put the trim up first then siding around it
What about using anchor seal on the green lumber?
Twisting i thought happens when the heart of a tree is in the center of a board?
Is the mail that holds the second one also hitting the first one and so on
The nail just goes through the top of the first piece without touching any pieces under it
I don't think frost will bother you, if you don't shovel around the house or saw mill shack. The snow will be deep enough to insulate the ground, and it won't freeze.
Sandy. I love following your posts. Is there a post where you share the plans for this cabin? I love the design. I am a Woodland Mills owner from southern Utah
Hey Burke! I don’t have any specific plans made up for this unfortunately as I just built it as I went. I’ll try to get some measurements down for ya at some point in the future
Thanks!
What would one suggest as a cost for this? Roughly in materials, not including your time...
Siding looks great, about to do the same. Did you use 3/4x6 and overlap an inch??
Hi Daniel. If my memory serves me right those were the dimensions
My whole garage is built with green lumber, never had any issues.
how many years she been up?
Come to Cape Breton and help me with my first mill start up haha!
Beautiful area out there so that’s pretty tempting haha
dimensions of your tiny house? what do you use it for? I think it looks great!
It's approximately 10x10
Fascinating, thanks. I'm not really an experienced builder, but may be working with one soon. Question: Why green lumber ? Out of necessity or choice ?
I just used green lumber so that I could build with it right away after cutting it on my sawmill.
Hey Sandy, how thick did you cut the siding? Looks great.
1”
its still lookin good ..by the way ...tis old fart just learned somthing new again from ya on the bark side down for cuping ...never thought of that before ...you did nail the siding on the right way ...you blind nailed it ...and yes you probably could get away with some face nails now that it has dried but face nailing goes threw both boards and if its green when you hang it and face nail it the lap siding will split ...i seen many amatures make that mistake ...but the bark side in would definatly help like you said...onto yur post... i hate metal brackets that simpson makes and they dont prevent twisting ...what i like to do is cut a 2by4 for front and back of the beam and post 16 inches long roughly miter the bottom edge at a 45 degree for appearence and nail that onto the beam and post ...it provides the strength ya need for uplift and twisting and looks better then some cheep ugly grey simpson bracket ...ps.. i hope i aint coming across as some know it all ...cheers and happy sawing and building
You’re always welcome to share your experiences. I learn new things from good folks like yourself all the time. I’m going to keep that idea for my posts you mentioned. Thanks for sharing
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@@BullfrogKid1234 you ok ? did you over heat your brain ?
Oh dear God, I hate my phone sometimes. My pocket likes to speak Klingon lol.
@@BullfrogKid1234 lmbo i hear ya lol
I have always been told if you put smile up on wood decking the board can hold moisture, if you put smile down or frowning at you, the board will shed water better and not cup the moisture.. Has to do with the soft wood being able to absorb and hard wood of the grain being able to shed the moisture better. What do you think ? I never claim to be a know it all it just made sense to me.
I’ve also heard what you mention here. I’ve not put down hardwood boards before but I do notice with softwood that sometimes boards will move in both ways. I’m wondering as well if kiln dried wood moves differently than wet wood.
All the wood that I use is pine we have very little hard wood in northern Mont. as far decking goes I've lived long enough to see some of the decking I've built need replacing and where the smile got left up that wood is starting to rot & need replacing the smile down stuff is in a lot better shape. Thanks for the response back.
How do you fix the gaps on the interior flooring?
I just live with them
You'll go for a ride in a big earthquake, but the cement blocks will definitely protect your posts from ground moisture.
Just the kind of info I was looking for. Silly question but, do you think that using screws instead of nails for the framing and such could reduce at least marginally the twisting or cupping of some of the pieces? Does that make any difference at all in the frame work? I'm an absolute novice in building cabins, and I'm planning on building my own pretty soon.
It doesnt matter. Its more the placement of the fastener and you must place them as he demonstrates if you dont want everything to crack. Screws will not resist shrinkage but bolts where applicable, will
Did you treat your siding with anything? Water sealer? Stain? , Etc?
Hi Ricky, this building has no treatment on it. I find it lasts well as long as no water sits against the untreated would as would be the case with soil contact or a deck without a roof over it.
On pine what is drying time to get 50% moisture down. I have trees on the ground from storm damage for 60 days and will start cutting in the next 30 days
I bet 50% of the moisture is gone in the first few weeks if it’s a nice windy and dry summer
Lol, we get frost here in Florida
I meant frozen ground
U know green wood!
How many board feet did the cabin take to build?
I’m not too sure off the top of my head but I’ll try to get an estimate for ya next time mom out in the tiny house . Thanks for watching
What size is your property? Do you have a well? a tractor shed?
Hey Rex, I do have a pretty good shop but not necessarily designed for my tractor. Maybe that'll be in the future. I do have a well for my house drinking water. Property is right around 40 acres
Looking back in time, at some point, there may be a need for an outhouse.
Great point!
Do you live in this Sandy? With your boards coping could you not take it off and turn the boards over to take the coping out of it?
Hey Marc, I just use this for guests and for when in want to camp out. I likely wouldn’t be able to flip the boards without Damage in the siding but I could do the flip for the deck boards without troubleb
The mice are going to love your tiny house. Did you get a building permit for that?
Not using green, unstamped lumber he didn't. Your building inspector is going to look for the stamp indicating that it is kiln dried.
12:32 was it a problem?