I appreciate the content. Realize you put this out awhile back. Very helpful for me as I’m jumping back in to drag racing after a 30 year break. A detailed seatbelt installation and seat mounting video is lacking on UA-cam…if you get bored.
Excellent video! I am also just getting back into racing after a very long 40 year break. I'm running a bone stock 2022 Dodge Challenger 1320 that runs mid 11's at our local track, so most of these rules do not apply, however, this video is awesome, thank you!
That will be a fun ride down the strip! You should do good…keep her consistent and you will be good. Learning in the fun part which I do every time I race!
Read the rule book, and make sure you have all the required safety equipment for the ET/speed you are running. The NHRA rule book is like the US Constitution. Everybody quotes it, but few people ever read it! LOL! Nice video.
@@bloodbrothersracing Oh it made sense, now I just need to figure everything out. While I maybe putting the cart before the horse here. As I need to finish the car first, it is good to plan ahead. Thanks again for the ton of information.
Good deal! Glad you got something out of it. Start slow and then work your way up to whatever budget you can afford. Doesn't matter what you make, you'll eventually spend all of it.
I’ve had tech inspectors check to see which side of the switch the alternator is connected to. You could hook the alternator up and the engine will keep running even with the kill switch off
Another outstanding video guys! I doubt I will go below 13 seconds with my Nash but it might be a good idea to set my car up for faster runs. What do you guys think? What would you recommend for racing seats? I plan to drive it on the street mostly and on the strip as often as I can so I need a little comfort. Keep the videos coming.
Thank you! I would suggest you do all the rules you need to 11.50, which only pertaining to your Nash would be drive shaft loop if running slicks. Not required but highly suggested is SFI seatbelts. As far as seats are concerned, any containment style seat will work well. Both of are cars are running Kirky style (Jegs branded) containment seats. I don't think they are comfortable enough for a long drive, but local trips wouldn't be bad. If you want more comfort then just look for a seat that has provisions for a 5 point harness and a head rest. Thanks for the comment, we look forward to seeing your progress on the Nash!
Great information ! Just found your channel & subscribed. I love your truck , blown alcohol is a dream of mine. I hope you have some info about this subject on your channel. Thanks.
This was a good video topic guys. I need to change my front valve stems to metal. Any chance yall can tell us about motor plates, pro/cons, when to-when not to? I’ll be sure to share.
Thanks! We may make a video about motor plates later, but the long and short of it is consistency/strength. On a stock frame car motor plates will remove all unwanted and inconsistent flex in the chassis from engine torque giving you more consistent ETs. On a chassis car like the race truck, the motor plate is actually a structural piece that ties both struts together. Although HP is a factor in deciding if you need motor plates, more importantly is to keep everything consistent and strong at any HP level.
@@bloodbrothersracing I agree but it's a little harder with a front mount battery since the on/off handle still needs to be at the rear of the car. We ended up running a Morse cable from the rear bumper to a cutoff switch next to front mounted battery on a buddies car. Took us a bit to convince the tech guy it met the rules because he'd never seen it done that way before.
Ive been racing for 40 years in the mid atlantic area. Tech used to be fairly comprehensive at every track. Over the past 10 years tech has become a joke. They check whatever is easy to see without trying. Belt dates, chassis cert dates, and blower restraint dates. I havent had my trans shield, diaper, fuel shut off, main power switch, etc checked in 10 years. I havent even had my firesuit and helmet checked in years. And this is at nhra, ihra, wdra tracks.
@gregm3406 we tend to agree with you as most tracks and events we frequent tends to take a Quick Look and sign off the tech card. I got dinged once on my front wheel studs not being long enough and that inspector was pretty thorough. Trying to find studs long enough in the town we were in was a challenge and then changing them all out on race day was real fun. But suffice it to say, it’s better to be within rules so when that when you do get an inspector that loves his job does a point by point, you can still race that day.
Depends on the track my friend. Some tracks just have you hand in a card and be done.some are more by the book. Even then they may just take a glance to make sure you have proper restraints and helmet.
I appreciate the content. Realize you put this out awhile back. Very helpful for me as I’m jumping back in to drag racing after a 30 year break.
A detailed seatbelt installation and seat mounting video is lacking on UA-cam…if you get bored.
Great Idea! We both have to replace our belts this year. Whenever they come in we will do a quick video on it. Thanks for the suggestion!
EXCELLENT video , this is the BEST video I've seen on this subject . Keep up the good work.
@waltnash9941 Thanks for the kind words!! It may be time for another one of these with some of the new rules implemented for 2024!
Excellent video! I am also just getting back into racing after a very long 40 year break. I'm running a bone stock 2022 Dodge Challenger 1320 that runs mid 11's at our local track, so most of these rules do not apply, however, this video is awesome, thank you!
That will be a fun ride down the strip! You should do good…keep her consistent and you will be good. Learning in the fun part which I do every time I race!
great video and my new library of drag racing and my son !
Read the rule book, and make sure you have all the required safety equipment for the ET/speed you are running. The NHRA rule book is like the US Constitution. Everybody quotes it, but few people ever read it! LOL! Nice video.
A man that gets it!
Excellent video. Super helpful. Debating which route to go now with my build
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the guidance on this!!!🙏🏻
Glad it was helpful!
That was a lot of information!
Hopefully it made sense!
@@bloodbrothersracing Oh it made sense, now I just need to figure everything out. While I maybe putting the cart before the horse here. As I need to finish the car first, it is good to plan ahead. Thanks again for the ton of information.
Thank you, I appreciate this!
Great video! Very informative. Brand new to drag racing. Very captivating hobby. Hoping i can go racing soon.
Good deal! Glad you got something out of it. Start slow and then work your way up to whatever budget you can afford. Doesn't matter what you make, you'll eventually spend all of it.
I’ve had tech inspectors check to see which side of the switch the alternator is connected to. You could hook the alternator up and the engine will keep running even with the kill switch off
Makes sense…..but we have never that extreme of a tech inspection!
@@bloodbrothersracing I haven’t in a while with NHRA doing self tech at divisional, regional, and national events
Another outstanding video guys! I doubt I will go below 13 seconds with my Nash but it might be a good idea to set my car up for faster runs. What do you guys think? What would you recommend for racing seats? I plan to drive it on the street mostly and on the strip as often as I can so I need a little comfort. Keep the videos coming.
Thank you! I would suggest you do all the rules you need to 11.50, which only pertaining to your Nash would be drive shaft loop if running slicks. Not required but highly suggested is SFI seatbelts. As far as seats are concerned, any containment style seat will work well. Both of are cars are running Kirky style (Jegs branded) containment seats. I don't think they are comfortable enough for a long drive, but local trips wouldn't be bad. If you want more comfort then just look for a seat that has provisions for a 5 point harness and a head rest. Thanks for the comment, we look forward to seeing your progress on the Nash!
this was good thank you
Glad you liked it!
thank you guys
Great information ! Just found your channel & subscribed. I love your truck , blown alcohol is a dream of mine. I hope you have some info about this subject on your channel. Thanks.
We did a 4 or 5 part series of the switch over to blown alcohol. I'm glad you found some value, and thanks for watching!
This was a good video topic guys. I need to change my front valve stems to metal. Any chance yall can tell us about motor plates, pro/cons, when to-when not to? I’ll be sure to share.
Thanks! We may make a video about motor plates later, but the long and short of it is consistency/strength. On a stock frame car motor plates will remove all unwanted and inconsistent flex in the chassis from engine torque giving you more consistent ETs. On a chassis car like the race truck, the motor plate is actually a structural piece that ties both struts together. Although HP is a factor in deciding if you need motor plates, more importantly is to keep everything consistent and strong at any HP level.
Thank you.
You're welcome!
11:54 If your battery is in its stock location, and you're running 10.00 or slower, no cutoff is required.
Good catch. Although not required, it is a good safety upgrade to be able to shut off your electrics in the event of an emergency.
@@bloodbrothersracing I agree but it's a little harder with a front mount battery since the on/off handle still needs to be at the rear of the car. We ended up running a Morse cable from the rear bumper to a cutoff switch next to front mounted battery on a buddies car. Took us a bit to convince the tech guy it met the rules because he'd never seen it done that way before.
Ive been racing for 40 years in the mid atlantic area. Tech used to be fairly comprehensive at every track. Over the past 10 years tech has become a joke. They check whatever is easy to see without trying. Belt dates, chassis cert dates, and blower restraint dates. I havent had my trans shield, diaper, fuel shut off, main power switch, etc checked in 10 years. I havent even had my firesuit and helmet checked in years. And this is at nhra, ihra, wdra tracks.
@gregm3406 we tend to agree with you as most tracks and events we frequent tends to take a Quick Look and sign off the tech card. I got dinged once on my front wheel studs not being long enough and that inspector was pretty thorough. Trying to find studs long enough in the town we were in was a challenge and then changing them all out on race day was real fun. But suffice it to say, it’s better to be within rules so when that when you do get an inspector that loves his job does a point by point, you can still race that day.
@@bloodbrothersracing agreed. I keep my stuff up to date. What worries me with the lax tech is what about the car in the other lane?
1000%
Real race cars have 3 pedals.
We don't disagree. In a class full of power glides and trans brakes it's hard to be competitive with a clutch car.
Do you need all this crap for simple test n tune nights
Depends on the track my friend. Some tracks just have you hand in a card and be done.some are more by the book. Even then they may just take a glance to make sure you have proper restraints and helmet.