I am restoring a 1979 Impala 2 door coupe and all of these videos are literarly my guidance to achieving a nice finish when I'll be done with the bodywork!
Buy once cry once! Great advice! I’m still using all the Snap On tools I bought 40+ years ago in tech school, zero regrets. One of the things I hate is having to re- buy a tool I cheaped out on the first time.
Thanks for the video. I bought a Sata 90 back in the early 90's and did my own restoration/painting on my classics until about 2013. I put that hobby on hold due to learning timberframing, and getting a sawmill and preparing to build my new home. Now I'm looking to get back into my cars. I didn't know anything about the new cup/liner system until now. I sprayed a lot of PPG epoxy sealer/primer, urethane filler primers, polyester spray filler, and a lot of Single stage PPG that is no longer available, except for what I still have. I've shot some base clear, but my cars base coats and clearcoats were shot by a friend of mine who shoots collision and many well known national show cars. When you're not used to shooting a thinner viscosity like the base, better to have the experienced hand do it. I've shot thicker products as mentioned. Whenever I switch to a thin product, I have to be really careful not to go too heavy and run.
Yeah if you’re spraying metallic, specifically using a HVLP spraying helps atomize the paint better but they are also typically slower. It might help if you are used to laying it on heavy. I’m glad you know about the liners now. It saves a lot time money and mess.
I'm using a rattle can for a base coat on a Honda Accord 2008. Dupli Color and then Eastwood Clear Coat. I noticed that the temperature on the day I'm in my home garage makes a big difference in how the paint flows and looks on the hood and deck. I have a total of two panels and wonder if it's possible to get an almost professional look using that method. Thank you very much, I just found and subscribed to your channel and appreciate it!!
I think you could get close to professional looking results if everything goes well and you spend some time sanding and buffing. Temperature definitely has a big effect.
It seems your advice is geared above the price point most beginners are going to invest . I would suggest two very important things that they need are a good clean air supply and a good cleaning regiment before any body work is performed, before any paint is sprayed and so on. A nice mid range very versatile gun is the Devilbiss Pro lite they can be had for around $500.00 -$600.00 range. Please share a link for the can tops that are around $10.00 I would be interested in them! Another thing I did was make a list of all the steps to do before I pull the trigger. I myself seem to get buck fever when I get ready to spray and always seem to leave some step out. Thanks!
Good advice. This video was just entry level tips and tricks we thought of. Not necessarily everything a beginner needs to know. If you have a local paint supplier they will sell the stirring lids made by dedoes. Other than that there are alternative brands on Amazon/the internet. The Prolite is a good gun I agree. Thanks for watching!
What’s the differnce between HVLP and HTE (rp). Also….i just bought a sata minijet 4400. Came with two cups. They don’t have liners and filters. Is that a differnt system?
That system that typically comes with sata guns is from their own sata cup system. It’s a disposable cup system no liners. They are just different style of guns. Typically you hvlps atomize metallics better whole rp are faster and layout single stage, clear coat, solid colors and sealers better. Both still meet high transfer efficiency standards.
I am restoring a 1979 Impala 2 door coupe and all of these videos are literarly my guidance to achieving a nice finish when I'll be done with the bodywork!
Awesome I hope we can continue to give you great tips
Buy once cry once! Great advice! I’m still using all the Snap On tools I bought 40+ years ago in tech school, zero regrets. One of the things I hate is having to re- buy a tool I cheaped out on the first time.
Agreed lol
I am lucky that I work at Uniselect in Canada, So I have access to most of the quality products!
Really good first vid for anyone.Ex painter and couldnt have done it better,probably not as good.
Thank you. We appreciate it!
Thanks for the video. I bought a Sata 90 back in the early 90's and did my own restoration/painting on my classics until about 2013. I put that hobby on hold due to learning timberframing, and getting a sawmill and preparing to build my new home. Now I'm looking to get back into my cars. I didn't know anything about the new cup/liner system until now. I sprayed a lot of PPG epoxy sealer/primer, urethane filler primers, polyester spray filler, and a lot of Single stage PPG that is no longer available, except for what I still have. I've shot some base clear, but my cars base coats and clearcoats were shot by a friend of mine who shoots collision and many well known national show cars. When you're not used to shooting a thinner viscosity like the base, better to have the experienced hand do it. I've shot thicker products as mentioned. Whenever I switch to a thin product, I have to be really careful not to go too heavy and run.
Yeah if you’re spraying metallic, specifically using a HVLP spraying helps atomize the paint better but they are also typically slower. It might help if you are used to laying it on heavy. I’m glad you know about the liners now. It saves a lot time money and mess.
where do you get the paint shake adapter? I'm not finding it online. Great vid, thanks.
26458 is the part number. Amazon/paint supply store or other online retailers
Do you to have a high flow hose or can it work with a regular hose
I believe you need a 3/8” air hose or bigger for high flows.
I love the dog… more of that little guy.
Try our best to get him in as much as we can lol.
I'm using a rattle can for a base coat on a Honda Accord 2008. Dupli Color and then Eastwood Clear Coat. I noticed that the temperature on the day I'm in my home garage makes a big difference in how the paint flows and looks on the hood and deck. I have a total of two panels and wonder if it's possible to get an almost professional look using that method. Thank you very much, I just found and subscribed to your channel and appreciate it!!
I think you could get close to professional looking results if everything goes well and you spend some time sanding and buffing. Temperature definitely has a big effect.
@@RefinishMedia Thank you, I like your videos they are good tutorials!!
Thank you
It seems your advice is geared above the price point most beginners are going to invest . I would suggest two very important things that they need are a good clean air supply and a good cleaning regiment before any body work is performed, before any paint is sprayed and so on. A nice mid range very versatile gun is the Devilbiss Pro lite they can be had for around $500.00 -$600.00 range. Please share a link for the can tops that are around $10.00 I would be interested in them! Another thing I did was make a list of all the steps to do before I pull the trigger. I myself seem to get buck fever when I get ready to spray and always seem to leave some step out. Thanks!
Good advice. This video was just entry level tips and tricks we thought of. Not necessarily everything a beginner needs to know. If you have a local paint supplier they will sell the stirring lids made by dedoes. Other than that there are alternative brands on Amazon/the internet. The Prolite is a good gun I agree. Thanks for watching!
the rockler toppers have a hand crank no need for drill. and it’s pretty durable
Awesome, good info
What’s the differnce between HVLP and HTE (rp). Also….i just bought a sata minijet 4400. Came with two cups. They don’t have liners and filters. Is that a differnt system?
That system that typically comes with sata guns is from their own sata cup system. It’s a disposable cup system no liners. They are just different style of guns. Typically you hvlps atomize metallics better whole rp are faster and layout single stage, clear coat, solid colors and sealers better. Both still meet high transfer efficiency standards.
@@RefinishMedia thanks. So do I need the adapter to use the 3M cups?
Yes you do. 3m has a chart to tell you what adapter is necessary
I'm confused... he says for your third gun you cab get a hvlp so what are the others, I thought they were all hvlp?
I think you need at bare minimum a two gun setup consisting of a primer gun and a RP and your third would be an HVLP.
If I’m strictly going to use lvlp guns is it necessary to still purchase high flow fittings?
No
I dont know the factual answer to that. But it can’t hurt
Is the lid company Dedoes?
Yeah