The spring pin at 13:00 -- often aptly called a 'bitch pin' -- is *_indeed_* a wicked thing. I once improvised a press-out tool for this. It worked, but it was tedious. I thought about patenting and marketing the tool in a refined version. ; ] There's a video on UA-cam of a guy doing something similar. The next time I removed the pin, I fashioned a brace to put between the transmission shift rod and the case -- I can't remember exactly how the configuration looks -- so as to keep the rod from moving much at all. I made the brace because on the second removal I *_did_* have to hammer the pin out. My press-out tool was a one-shot wonder. ; ] I hate seeing people wail away at this pin with a punch and a hammer, because this really *_is_* a 'bitch pin' that takes a *_lot_* of force to remove. That's why I pressed it out the first time. I used a stop-gap brace the second time partly because I'd replaced the shift rod oil seal. I'd suggest watching a couple of videos of guys carelessly smashing away at the spring pin, repeatedly making the shift rod flex upward violently and by a considerable amount. How this fails to register as a rather bad idea truly amazes me. ; ] I'd like to know if they ever had that seal leak as a consequence of the abuse, to say nothing about the risk to the internals. It seemed obvious to me to avoid that 'technique'. ; ] For the record, I bought the item featured in the videos linked below There was some manipulation required for my '95 Civic LX, in that I had to invert the part to get it to fit due to the connecting rod attaching on the opposite side, but the design of this shift linkage modification makes removal of the shifter rod an absolute breeze as a result of replacing the spring pin with a secure, snug, but easily removed slip-in pin.. Cameron Grady designed this machined piece to take the excessive play out of the gear change lever. Doing away with the dastardly little spring pin was a bonus of equal if not greater value. ; ] ua-cam.com/video/ZWhFjgwZR4Q/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/zySrV9CJJwY/v-deo.html
To me, they wouldn't pull out nearly far enough for comfort if you just try to swing the knuckle away with the axle still in it.People leave them in because of how notoriously stubborn Honda axle nuts can be. ; ]
It’s holding up, I was googling turbos and then was like “how big of a pain is a fwd clutch” first Honda, always had trucks. It’s been beat since this video looks like lol
Now I know how old the clutch is at least lmao. Its a fixer upper for sure, just got it a few month ago. Next thing I’m getting besides lug studs is a camber kit lol
Scott Smith if I remember right the only thing that was really sketchy was the engine mount bracket on the driver’s side, had bolts broken off in the engine so it was barely attached, don’t know if that got fixed yet
It’s a sketchmobile, but it was cheaper than a tranny for my tundra and gets better gas mileage getting back and forth from Tulsa to my job in claremore lol.
@@TheFeesher just giving you s*** man haha. i do appreciate the video though. my damn clutch is slipping in mine to and i just dont wanna have to tear into it. any idea if thats the whole clutch assy. or just a throw out bearing or what?
If it’s slipping, it’s the clutch disc or pressure plate, all of that comes in a kit though. I’d recommend at least resurfacing the flywheel while you’re at it, if not buying a new one
Be impossibly careful if you decide to hammer out the lower ball joint. Use a rubber mallet. Or get a wedge tool. If you fuck up the threads, your gonna have a bad time.
Wondering if the trans should free up (easily) once all bolts and mounts are removed. Seems mine doesn't want to split from the engine. I'm certain I got all bolts removed. Wondering if you or anyone else had to use a crowbar or mallet to free up the trans
Spook84 I witnessed someone hold an engine up on the bottom of the header overnight and it was fine. I guess if your header is strong enough. No cheap shit
+Dalton Lord there's also a video somewhere that has an engine on a dyno, they put the most expensive headers possible on it and dyno it, then they take off the headers and take a big hammer to the pipes putting huge dents in the pipes, dynoed it again and it had the same exact numbers, I'm not too concerned
when i turn the car on it sounds really loud, and when i press the clutch pedal down the sound goes away. (it sounds like is scratching). is it time for a new clutch disk or is it the clutch master??
Is it possible to do this job without mess with the coolant system(hoses and expansion tank)? I ask because i have a B16 and I'll have to change the clutch and recently I've changed the coolant fluid, which is 100% genuine Honda and I wouldn't like to lose it.
Wish this guy lived near me for some work on my 99 civ, damn he's knowledgeable.
Thank you! And me too! I'm always looking for work!
this shit easy cuz
Lmao… literally a monkey can do this bro. Its not rocket science . Just gotta have some confidence in yourself
Thanks a lot man this video really helped me with my Del Sol
Unbelievable. You guys are so legit. Thank you for posting. Gonna be my guide for a del sol clutch job.
Same here
You can remove the axle without removing the tie rod. All you need to disconnect is the ball joint.
Exactly what I was thinking. Just the strut fork and lower ball joint
@@josemalinao1308don’t even need to remove the strut fork.
The spring pin at 13:00 -- often aptly called a 'bitch pin' -- is *_indeed_* a wicked thing. I once improvised a press-out tool for this. It worked, but it was tedious. I thought about patenting and marketing the tool in a refined version. ; ] There's a video on UA-cam of a guy doing something similar.
The next time I removed the pin, I fashioned a brace to put between the transmission shift rod and the case -- I can't remember exactly how the configuration looks -- so as to keep the rod from moving much at all. I made the brace because on the second removal I *_did_* have to hammer the pin out. My press-out tool was a one-shot wonder. ; ] I hate seeing people wail away at this pin with a punch and a hammer, because this really *_is_* a 'bitch pin' that takes a *_lot_* of force to remove. That's why I pressed it out the first time. I used a stop-gap brace the second time partly because I'd replaced the shift rod oil seal. I'd suggest watching a couple of videos of guys carelessly smashing away at the spring pin, repeatedly making the shift rod flex upward violently and by a considerable amount. How this fails to register as a rather bad idea truly amazes me. ; ] I'd like to know if they ever had that seal leak as a consequence of the abuse, to say nothing about the risk to the internals. It seemed obvious to me to avoid that 'technique'. ; ]
For the record, I bought the item featured in the videos linked below There was some manipulation required for my '95 Civic LX, in that I had to invert the part to get it to fit due to the connecting rod attaching on the opposite side, but the design of this shift linkage modification makes removal of the shifter rod an absolute breeze as a result of replacing the spring pin with a secure, snug, but easily removed slip-in pin.. Cameron Grady designed this machined piece to take the excessive play out of the gear change lever. Doing away with the dastardly little spring pin was a bonus of equal if not greater value. ; ]
ua-cam.com/video/ZWhFjgwZR4Q/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/zySrV9CJJwY/v-deo.html
Holy hell missing bolts 🔩 everywhere 😳
thank you for you patience... im colecting a video manual for my honda , thanks!
That sounds beautiful!!! Dayummm....that is my dream car, following my 79 Dodge Charger 440
U can also pop the lower ball joint to get the drive shafts out without taking it outta the hub
Good info!
To me, they wouldn't pull out nearly far enough for comfort if you just try to swing the knuckle away with the axle still in it.People leave them in because of how notoriously stubborn Honda axle nuts can be. ; ]
@@billholt174 right socket and long bar it will come np
Some time u need a lot of length for alot of leverage
@@billholt174
Dose this method work? I got a fly wheel and a clutch kit coming in three days. That 30mm nut is the only thing that stands in my way.
This is exactly how my 97 civic hatch single cam sounded like 👍
Holy shit I own this car now lmao. 100% that’s my car
Hell Yeah man! Lol I’m guessing since you’re here, the clutch didn’t hold up?
It’s holding up, I was googling turbos and then was like “how big of a pain is a fwd clutch” first Honda, always had trucks. It’s been beat since this video looks like lol
Now I know how old the clutch is at least lmao. Its a fixer upper for sure, just got it a few month ago. Next thing I’m getting besides lug studs is a camber kit lol
Scott Smith if I remember right the only thing that was really sketchy was the engine mount bracket on the driver’s side, had bolts broken off in the engine so it was barely attached, don’t know if that got fixed yet
It’s a sketchmobile, but it was cheaper than a tranny for my tundra and gets better gas mileage getting back and forth from Tulsa to my job in claremore lol.
Thanks for video bro going to look for part 2
Thanks! The install video is on my channel! I guess I need to put a tag for it in this video
Good clear instructions, just wondering how that car drives correctly with most of the bolts holding the transmission to the engine missing!
No idea, but it somehow worked lol the important part are the dowels so I guess we at least replaced those
yeah other than his stuffy nose, yes very clear details
Hey now
@@TheFeesher just giving you s*** man haha. i do appreciate the video though. my damn clutch is slipping in mine to and i just dont wanna have to tear into it. any idea if thats the whole clutch assy. or just a throw out bearing or what?
If it’s slipping, it’s the clutch disc or pressure plate, all of that comes in a kit though. I’d recommend at least resurfacing the flywheel while you’re at it, if not buying a new one
Thank you for the video! Very detailed!
Thank you!
@@TheFeesher You wouldnt happen to know where to get buy an inspection cover or dust cover for the transmission? I need one for a 1.5 liter D series.
Be impossibly careful if you decide to hammer out the lower ball joint. Use a rubber mallet. Or get a wedge tool. If you fuck up the threads, your gonna have a bad time.
Instructions unclear removed the engine
- _(*. *) _-
Sometimes that’s the easiest way lol
yea like no shit i think im gonna yank the engine out to replace the clutch
Great video
Make a video on putting it back and show us if it will run to test it (otherwise I will give you a failing mark).
It ran lol, there’s a guy in the comments that ended up buying the car a while after I worked on it, some small world type of stuff lol
Cool! You passed!!!
11:33
Lmao
Wheel axle nut is 32mm
Can you advise what is the top alone tube on the top of transmission
Should just be a vent
At :20 that’s what my car does, this is a 100% sure symptom?
Yes
Thanks man for the vid really saved my ass.
No problem! Glad to have helped!
is subframe removal necessary like the newer civic si’s?? somebody please help
Nope, comes right out!
thank you GREAT JOB
Glad I could help!
nice civic / dc2 clutch
Wondering if the trans should free up (easily) once all bolts and mounts are removed. Seems mine doesn't want to split from the engine. I'm certain I got all bolts removed. Wondering if you or anyone else had to use a crowbar or mallet to free up the trans
I for sure have had to do that, you just want to be sure you have something or someone to catch it if it pops off
Mine wasn't catching speed when my barren went out
great video man im about to install same b18b into my hatch and turboing that :D what brand clutch you go with?
I think it was an XTD clutch, customer got the cheapest they could find lol
Is it easier with the 96 -00 looks little less
so I have a 94 civic auto what trans whould I put in it?
+stephanie acevedo what engine is in it?
+stephanie acevedo and are you swapping to manual or just want another auto
lol
@@ivanzavala6500 I like to imagine she watched the whole video before she realized a clutch is for manual cars
where is part 2? it is now 11.15.2020 and still no part 2?
There is an installation video on my channel should be the next video chronologically
Here is the link ua-cam.com/video/S7rOK6GMi4c/v-deo.html
@@TheFeesher Thank you, sir!
How much does 1998 Honda Civic EX cost for clutch replacement?
Probably close to 1000
civic / integra clutch power torque juego de embrague nuevo
The clutch is bad how did you plan to reuse it wtf ????
would Yal pay $450 for labor to swap clutch?
That’s about what I’d charge to do one
Is the rear main seal behind the pressure plate?
parales03 it is behind the flywheel
Cant u slide it out far enought with out undoing half shaft
You could probably, but it would just a a bigger hassle than it’s worth, half shaft comes out in like 2 minutes
so you can use a jackstand to support the entire engine putting it under the exhaust?
+Spook84 it's not recommended to put it there but a jack stand will have no problem supporting the engine
Spook84 I witnessed someone hold an engine up on the bottom of the header overnight and it was fine. I guess if your header is strong enough. No cheap shit
+Dalton Lord there's also a video somewhere that has an engine on a dyno, they put the most expensive headers possible on it and dyno it, then they take off the headers and take a big hammer to the pipes putting huge dents in the pipes, dynoed it again and it had the same exact numbers, I'm not too concerned
Good job! Really helpful and detailed!
Thank you!
when i turn the car on it sounds really loud, and when i press the clutch pedal down the sound goes away. (it sounds like is scratching). is it time for a new clutch disk or is it the clutch master??
Probably clutch related, I’d guess pilot bearing
Throw out bearing
@@johnJRhaynes so i replaced the whole clutch kit, the problem is inside the transmission, im guessing its the input shaft bearing now
Wtf where is the stupid half shaft?
I’m pretty sure my axels don’t have any. I have no idea what you mean half shafts.
Shit I know for a fact that I won’t be able to put the transmission back in place
can you re do this but hire a camera guy lol thanks for the vid tho
My more recent videos are better, I should actually redo this though!
@@TheFeesher please. Great informative video though
This is Honda, but what year and model?
It’s a 92-95 civic
@@TheFeesher Thanx for replying.
This is a d series removal right?
No, this is a b18 but D series is practically the same
It does have the same removal procces tho, i followed it with a d16z6 engine and it worked good.
I'm about to do this on a D16Z6 today. Thanks for the vid !
How long did this take?
A few hours to remove and install
get some blocks b4 crawling under geez
DEEZ NUTS
Please, this channel is for senior citizens
Lol I used to live down that road
That's awesome man! Small world!
Be better with a freaking lift 😫
Is it possible to do this job without mess with the coolant system(hoses and expansion tank)? I ask because i have a B16 and I'll have to change the clutch and recently I've changed the coolant fluid, which is 100% genuine Honda and I wouldn't like to lose it.
Yes sir, I don’t see a need to remove coolant
Wow man! Thanks a lot for the quick answer!
wat state u in
Oklahoma!
o hell i was gon pay u do some work on my civic but u all way out there im in sc myrtle beach
6:35
Don’t cancel me bro 😢
@@TheFeesher nah the timestamp is just for my reference since im done with the axles 😂 your vid helped alot 😁
Austincrsx 😂😂 thanks man! Get that thing moving again!
integra clutch dead civic