You could just print the molds for the carbon piece. Makes the fiberglass mold unnecesary and saves a lot of time. Just sand them and cover them with epoxy gelcoat. Sand and polish the gelcoat.
Yes but it takes a lot more sanding and it creates a very resin-heavy part. If you want the best finish, strongest, lightest, carbon piece he could use vacuum bagging (or an expandable bladder) and get those things friggin MINT looking and super light. Plus he can use the molds to make repeat parts.
@@PropellerPixMN no, the mold has nothing to do with how heavy the carbon part will be. And it is less sanding cause u only have to sand the molds after they are coated with gelcoat. If u polish the gelcoat u can get shiny carbon parts straight out of the mold. Vacuum bagging or not has nothing to do with how the mold is made.
Making a mould with 3D software from a part like an STL file is almost impossible. You are right of one were to design the part himself and then the mould right after. Really difficult to do so with a 3D file you downloaded from the internet. Otherwise, you are of course correct. It is much faster.
Great vid. I liked the use of thread to hold the bridging tape and epoxy away from the walls as you closed the mould. Though: I have been 3D printing and skinning parts with carbon fibre recently. For a part that doesn't need to be incredibly strong its very good, and a LOT easier/less work (obviously your job is a much more 'proper' way to go about it, I conceed). Thanks for the video!
What if you print the positive shape (with some small offset) in a soluble filament (e.g. VXL-EX or just PVA-based) and then directly layer the glass/carbon fibre and ePoxy on top. Once dry, dissolve the printed material. Wouldn't that make CF part much easier to produce in very small scales?
@@markoroolaid I’m guessing the hardest thing to expect is the foam core. I’m going to need an accurate way to produce accurate sections of wing, I’m not sure if hot wire will be sufficient. I’m still trying to figure it all out.
Можно было использовать шарик, после того, как обе формы молда прижаты друг к другу, надуть шар, чтобы он прижал изнутри слои плотнее к стенкам. Тем самым сделав прочнее межслойное соединение.
Using the 3M vinyl is brilliant to smooth out the printing lines. Are you using the adhesive kind, or some type of heat shrink? I need to do something similar, can you provide a product link? Awesome work
Hello. I used a solution of PVA glue and water to improve the adhesion. Shown in video. I don't have a link about vinyl. But relatively ordinary 3M car 3D vinyl. It is important that it is shiny.
@@markoroolaid of course, you're abolutely right. But now, with new FDM special products, for some parts and scale, I think question can be analyzed and tested, because work totaly different. thanks
Great Outcome!! Although it could have been done much much quicker without whole epoxy mould prep. You could have 3D printed cavity as is and use finishing coat of resin on you carbon parts for the mirror finish :)
@@markoroolaid I just noticed, you added a layer of epoxy before the layup. This works as gelcoat. If you tried the layup, directly putting the carbon in the mould, you would have canyons as pinholes. The method of yours eliminates the risk of pinholes but the part is heavier, due to extra layer of epoxy
Great vid! Learn alot from this. But I always face the same 1 issue when applying first lay of epoxy onto the waxed mould surface. My epoxy tend to pull away/puddle up into sections, leaving some areas of the mould surface with dry spots prior to applying the cf cloth. Hope you get what i mean. What is you advice regarding this issue?
Let the first layer dry. At the same time smoothing with a brush to avoid holes and "fisheye eyes". When the first layer is so hard that it doesn't stick, I continue to apply the carbon cloth
Amazing technical skills. The RC part making techniques are terrific, but not the video editing skills or the music. Please fire your production team. You got robbed.
nice build! check out mine! printed catamaran with carbon parts as well! i can recomend the proxxon sanding tools a drawer woth vacuumcleaner conection from the side and a mesh on top. makes a handy tool to sand without messing up your workspace
Everything is great but the black fades are painfully long for scene cuts. Your better off to just do a straight cut in editing to the next scene. Would save viewer time and makes a better video.
You are absolutely right. Really disturbing. When on the computer I did it looked beautiful and nice, but youtube pulls the quality so much down that the end result is poor. I'll definitely consider that in the next video.
Come on David, be nice. Your videos are very imformative and I like watching and I'm sure you wouldn't like someone having a go at you. Perhaps Marko's way is not the way you, or I might go about making the mould, but he got a nice result in the absence of bladers or vacuum and I think if someone can pick up just one thing, then it's worth watching. You can learn something from eveyone. Can I ask how you would have gone about it. I am open minded and can always learn more.
@@craigsmith3655 hmmm like someone else, you have missed the Point i that i was making. why do you think marko 'liked' my comment.? i suggest that you read my comment, repeatedly, until the light goes on. or, ask me about it, again, if the light stays off. and i will 'splain it to you. cheers googletranslate
@@daviddavids2884 Okay you got me, I must be one of those doofi. If I understand correctly you're saying your comment was in fact a possitive? and that's why Marko liked it. Maybe too cryptic or subtle for me. Sorry you will have to explain. If you don't mind.
You could just print the molds for the carbon piece. Makes the fiberglass mold unnecesary and saves a lot of time. Just sand them and cover them with epoxy gelcoat. Sand and polish the gelcoat.
that's how I do it, it's obviously faster !
What you're suggesting is the correct way to do it!
Yes but it takes a lot more sanding and it creates a very resin-heavy part. If you want the best finish, strongest, lightest, carbon piece he could use vacuum bagging (or an expandable bladder) and get those things friggin MINT looking and super light. Plus he can use the molds to make repeat parts.
@@PropellerPixMN no, the mold has nothing to do with how heavy the carbon part will be. And it is less sanding cause u only have to sand the molds after they are coated with gelcoat. If u polish the gelcoat u can get shiny carbon parts straight out of the mold. Vacuum bagging or not has nothing to do with how the mold is made.
Making a mould with 3D software from a part like an STL file is almost impossible.
You are right of one were to design the part himself and then the mould right after.
Really difficult to do so with a 3D file you downloaded from the internet.
Otherwise, you are of course correct. It is much faster.
This is so rad!!!
ok, thanks
Absolutely unreal! Excellent work and choice in music! Most of how I did it videos you have to mute the volume lol
Great vid. I liked the use of thread to hold the bridging tape and epoxy away from the walls as you closed the mould. Though: I have been 3D printing and skinning parts with carbon fibre recently. For a part that doesn't need to be incredibly strong its very good, and a LOT easier/less work (obviously your job is a much more 'proper' way to go about it, I conceed). Thanks for the video!
What if you print the positive shape (with some small offset) in a soluble filament (e.g. VXL-EX or just PVA-based) and then directly layer the glass/carbon fibre and ePoxy on top. Once dry, dissolve the printed material. Wouldn't that make CF part much easier to produce in very small scales?
This is what I need to learn about in order to make an F5j glider
Start with small details, that way it is good and easy to learn.
@@markoroolaid I’m guessing the hardest thing to expect is the foam core. I’m going to need an accurate way to produce accurate sections of wing, I’m not sure if hot wire will be sufficient. I’m still trying to figure it all out.
if you do it carefully and think it through, you always succeed
you're not the only one i see using carbon and glass fiber laminate. What is the reason for it?
Можно было использовать шарик, после того, как обе формы молда прижаты друг к другу, надуть шар, чтобы он прижал изнутри слои плотнее к стенкам. Тем самым сделав прочнее межслойное соединение.
Привет. Да, ваша идея тоже очень хороша. Качество однозначно будет лучше.
Using the 3M vinyl is brilliant to smooth out the printing lines. Are you using the adhesive kind, or some type of heat shrink? I need to do something similar, can you provide a product link? Awesome work
Hello.
I used a solution of PVA glue and water to improve the adhesion. Shown in video. I don't have a link about vinyl. But relatively ordinary 3M car 3D vinyl. It is important that it is shiny.
I agree, Love the technique!
Great work dude!
Great job !!
Все супер, только вот изолента должна быть синей!
Did you try to print directly with carbon fiber pla filament to compare weight and strenght ?
Carbon fiber cloth and carbon fiber PLA still cannot be compared, completely different materials and strengths
@@markoroolaid of course, you're abolutely right.
But now, with new FDM special products, for some parts and scale, I think question can be analyzed and tested, because work totaly different.
thanks
Great Outcome!! Although it could have been done much much quicker without whole epoxy mould prep. You could have 3D printed cavity as is and use finishing coat of resin on you carbon parts for the mirror finish :)
Ok, thanks
Wouldn’t that result in a reduced overall size and irregular final shape if prep work is not done properly with the resin?
That make me itch just watching.
You are right about that. Protective equipment is important
you haven't used vacuum or any mandrel to pressurise the carbon in the mould? And you got those tiny bubbles?? Impressive
Thanks
@@markoroolaid I just noticed, you added a layer of epoxy before the layup. This works as gelcoat. If you tried the layup, directly putting the carbon in the mould, you would have canyons as pinholes. The method of yours eliminates the risk of pinholes but the part is heavier, due to extra layer of epoxy
Great vid! Learn alot from this. But I always face the same 1 issue when applying first lay of epoxy onto the waxed mould surface. My epoxy tend to pull away/puddle up into sections, leaving some areas of the mould surface with dry spots prior to applying the cf cloth. Hope you get what i mean. What is you advice regarding this issue?
Let the first layer dry. At the same time smoothing with a brush to avoid holes and "fisheye eyes". When the first layer is so hard that it doesn't stick, I continue to apply the carbon cloth
@@markoroolaid that would mean to keep brushing non stop till it doesnt “run” anymore?
yess
Hi buddy. Why did you preheat de epoxy before applying the first layer?
hi.Because to achieve a beautiful shiny surface. Usually the carbon fiber surface remains porous and is not very nice
@@markoroolaid Thanks so much
Confusing workflow but good technique. Why not just use the the 3D print for the mold?
You can of course use a 3d printed mold. The fiberglass mold just stays stronger
Amazing technical skills. The RC part making techniques are terrific, but not the video editing skills or the music. Please fire your production team. You got robbed.
nice build! check out mine! printed catamaran with carbon parts as well! i can recomend the proxxon sanding tools a drawer woth vacuumcleaner conection from the side and a mesh on top. makes a handy tool to sand without messing up your workspace
Why do you heat your epoxy at 10:00 ?
To speed up the drying of the epoxy
@@markoroolaid ok thanks because a friend also do that but when his resin is quite old
This is fucking cooooool！！！！！！
I'm so glad you like it
UA-cam is free education, and yet people are on here for TikTok and memes.
Everything is great but the black fades are painfully long for scene cuts. Your better off to just do a straight cut in editing to the next scene. Would save viewer time and makes a better video.
You are absolutely right. Really disturbing. When on the computer I did it looked beautiful and nice, but youtube pulls the quality so much down that the end result is poor. I'll definitely consider that in the next video.
ааааа это жэсть. мама роди меня обратно.
.....20 years later...
You lost?
to much polution for one part
Unfortunately, this is the case
Didn't look easy.
Believe me it is
The head-banging "music" is not really necessary.
ok
ummmm they are called wheel PANTS.!
are you gonna be just another doofus, who shows the MOST-complicated way to make COSMETIC components.? cheers
Do you have a better way? Show us.
Come on David, be nice. Your videos are very imformative and I like watching and I'm sure you wouldn't like someone having a go at you. Perhaps Marko's way is not the way you, or I might go about making the mould, but he got a nice result in the absence of bladers or vacuum and I think if someone can pick up just one thing, then it's worth watching. You can learn something from eveyone. Can I ask how you would have gone about it. I am open minded and can always learn more.
@@craigsmith3655 hmmm like someone else, you have missed the Point i that i was making.
why do you think marko 'liked' my comment.?
i suggest that you read my comment, repeatedly, until the light goes on.
or, ask me about it, again, if the light stays off. and i will 'splain it to you. cheers googletranslate
@@daviddavids2884 Okay you got me, I must be one of those doofi. If I understand correctly you're saying your comment was in fact a possitive? and that's why Marko liked it. Maybe too cryptic or subtle for me. Sorry you will have to explain. If you don't mind.
Great job!
Thank you